PREFACE.

The materials whence the following biographical memoirs of the two young men who were knit together in friendship, and whose adventurous enthusiasm led them into the dangerous situation in which their lives were terminated, have been drawn entirely from private and authentic sources of information. The author had the satisfaction of being personally acquainted with both the travellers, before they went to Africa, and had, in consequence, the best opportunities of learning the facts and circumstances of the previous part of their lives. But the present publication, of which they are the subject, owes its origin to an incidental conversation which he had with Dr. James Kay, R.N. the intimate friend both of Oudney and Clapperton. Dr. Kay not only had stored up in his memory many curious incidents and anecdotes of his friends, which he communicated freely, but he had in his possession a number of letters from them both, received before and after they had commenced their exploratory expedition. All these letters, with a variety of other documents relative to them and their affairs, were readily imparted to the author, to make whatever use of them his judgment and discretion might dictate. When he had resolved on publication, he mentioned his design to Professor Jameson, who, he was aware, had been instrumental in getting both our travellers appointed to the mission, in the accomplishment of which they went to Africa. The Professor not only approved of the design, but afforded the author essential service in its execution, by putting into his possession a file of letters from Dr. Oudney, written during the prosecution of his African expedition, and addressed, some of them to the Professor, and the rest of them to the traveller’s eldest sister. Professor Jameson, likewise, mentioned a number of interesting particulars relative chiefly to the arrangements of the expedition, and the views of the gentlemen by whom it was undertaken. The author is farther indebted for a part of his information to Lieutenant Sheriff, R.N. who had lived in habits of the closest intimacy with Captain Clapperton, during a series of years, and had become well acquainted with his history. Dr. Kay, moreover, applied to Mr. Anderson, formerly a resident in the West Indies, afterwards in Edinburgh, and now in the vicinity of Birmingham, also one of Captain Clapperton’s friends, to communicate what he recollected of him worthy being made public; and in reply he sent a letter, which was also given to the author, containing many valuable facts relating to an important period of Clapperton’s life; and stating the dates and particulars of a great part of his public career as an officer in the Navy, as well as mentioning a number of incidents, sentiments, and conduct, illustrative of his character as a private individual. These are the materials out of which the following narratives have been composed, and while, it is hoped, they will have the effect of preserving the memory of two interprising men who sacrificed their lives in the discharge of their duty, from being lost in oblivion, they will, at the same time, serve to assure the reader, that he may safely repose the most unlimited confidence in the accuracy of their details.

After both the memoirs had been composed, and indeed printed in a different form to that in which they now appear—a circumstance which will account for the frequent use of the editorial we—the Author had the good fortune to meet with Captain Clapperton’s sister, from whom he received some valuable information respecting the early part, especially, of her adventurous and lamented brother’s life. In consequence of this accession of materials, he has been enabled to correct several passages, and greatly to enrich his narrative. And now he begs leave to offer his cordial thanks to that lady, as well as to all the gentlemen mentioned above, to whom he has been so much indebted.

With regard to the Memoir of Major Laing, the Author of those of Oudney and Clapperton must disclaim both the merit and the responsibility. It was compiled from a variety of previously published notices of that gentleman, who like many others met an early grave in the interior of the African continent. As, however, he was the countryman of the other two travellers, and met his death while engaged in the discharge of similar duties, as well as nearly about the same time, the accompanying notice of his career seems to form a suitable companion to the narratives in which theirs are recorded.

CONTENTS.

DR. OUDNEY’S LIFE.

Dr. Oudney’s birth, enters Edinburgh University, passes as Surgeon, enters the Royal Navy, 3—Put on half-pay, 4—Returns to Edinburgh, 5—Practises as Surgeon, 6—Appointed member of expedition to explore the interior of Africa, 9—Letter from London on the eve of his departure, 10—Letter from Malta, 11—Two letters from Tripoli, 12—Letter from Tripoli, 16—Letter from Gardens, near Tripoli, 18—Letter from Mourzuk, 19—Ditto, 20—Ditto, to Professor Jameson, 22—Letter from Mourzuk, 25—Letter to Professor Jameson from Mourzuk, 27—Letter from Mourzuk, 30—Letter from Gatroni, 31—letter from Kuka, kingdom of Bornou, 32—Letter from Kuka, 34—Sets forward to Soudan, 36—Falls ill at Katagum, letter from Captain Clapperton to Mr. Consul Warrington from Kano, giving an account of his illness and death, 37.

CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S LIFE.

Introductory remarks, 45—His parentage, 48—Birth, education, youthful adventures, embraces the sea service, 52—Promoted to be a midshipman in his majesty’s ship Renommeé, 58—Service in the East Indies, nearly drowned, storming fort Louis, 64—Service on the lakes of Canada, crosses the ice to York, Upper Canada, great sufferings, Huron Indians, 73—Second step of promotion, and conduct while an officer on half-pay, 82—Acquaintance with Dr. Oudney, and his first expedition to Africa, 91—Second expedition to Africa, 94—Account of Mungo Park’s death, arrival at Soccatoo, his baggage seized by Bello, falls ill, Lander’s account of his death, 112.

MAJOR LAING’S LIFE.

Birth and parentage, 117—Assists his father as a teacher, 118—Enters the Edinburgh volunteers as ensign, 118—Goes to Barbadoes, 119—Placed on half-pay, 120—Appointed Lieutenant and Adjutant, and goes to Sierra Leone, 120—Goes on an embassy to Kambia, 120—Description of the country, &c. 125—Penetrates into the country of the Soolimas, 126—Description of his route, 130—Inoculates the children in Falaba, 136—Returns to Sierra Leone, 138—Sent to England with despatches, 139—Promoted to be a Major, leaves London for Tripoli on his way to Timbuctoo, 139—Marries Miss Warrington, 140—Leaves Tripoli, 140—His journey, 142—His party attacked, and himself wounded, 143—Report of his death, 144.

Publications by the same Author.

1. A Sermon on the Return of Peace; preached at Holcome, Lancashire, on the 7th July 1814.

Bishop Law, then of Chester, and now of Bath and Wells, in a Letter to the Author, thus stated his opinion of the above discourse.

“Rev. Sir,—I have read your sermon with great pleasure, and entire approbation. It is a composition every way respectable.”

2. A Narrative of the King’s Visit to Scotland, in August 1822.

3. A Treatise on Religion inserted in the Encyclopædia Edinensis.

The late venerable Sir Henry Moncrieff was pleased to express his unqualified approbation of the above Treatise.

4. A Catechism of the Evidences of the Christian Religion.

From the Edinburgh Saturday Evening Post.—“Into a small compass, and at a cheap price, the author has condensed the substance of many large treatises, which the interest of the subject has called forth. The style is plain, simple, and forcible; and we venture to affirm that he who makes himself master of the volume, small as it is, will never be at a loss to give an answer to any man that asketh him a reason of the hope that is in him.”

Extract of a Letter from W. Grant, Esq. Manchester.—“Your Catechism of the Evidences of Christianity is admirably calculated for the improvement of youth.”

5. A Classical Atlas, with a Memoir on Ancient Geography, dedicated to the Rector and Masters of the High School of Edinburgh. In 22 Maps, neatly coloured, and half-bound, 8vo. Price 6s.

From the Edinburgh Literary Gazette.—“This is one of the neatest, best arranged, and best executed little Manuals of Geography we have ever seen.”

From the Edinburgh Evening Post.—“We know of no addition which has been made to the number of our useful School-Books, for years past, by many degrees so valuable as this Classical Atlas. It is neat and portable, accurate, and cheap, and in all respects well fitted to accomplish its object.”

MEMOIR
OF
DR. OUDNEY,
THE AFRICAN TRAVELLER.

Although biography be the most attractive species of historical composition, as it gratifies the prying curiosity of our nature by making us acquainted with the origin and progress, and the retired habits, as well as the public pursuits, conduct, and character of distinguished individuals; yet there are few, comparatively speaking, of the human race, the actions of whose lives possess sufficient interest to engage the attention of their fellow-men, or are, on that account, worthy to be made the subject of biographical record. Had, therefore, Dr. Oudney’s name not been associated with that select band of enterprising men whose love of scientific adventure caused them to forego their native country and the endearments of home, and to wander in foreign lands, till they fell the victims of their own enthusiasm; we are ready to grant that, in all probability, notwithstanding his accomplishments and his worth, he would have been allowed to rest uninquired after with those millions of mankind who, the feverish bustle of life being over, have become “to dumb forgetfulness a prey.” But as he had the ardour of mind to undertake an expedition into the interior of Africa with the view of enlarging the dominions of science, and the perseverance to prosecute the enterprise, till, like others who had preceded him in the same career, he sacrificed his life in the performance of his duty; the incidents of his history have thereby acquired an interest, which, in other circumstances, they could not have possibly possessed; and, hence, a short memoir of his life cannot fail to afford a high gratification to a numerous class of readers; and this it is the object of the following pages to supply.

Doctor Walter Oudney was born, of humble parentage, in the vicinity of Edinburgh, in the month of December, 1790. From his boyhood he discovered an uncommon disposition and aptitude for learning; so that he could scarcely be induced to take the necessary hours of repose. It does not appear, however, that at this early period he manifested that inclination for travelling or adventure which afterwards operated so powerfully on his mind, and which seems to have been entirely the result of his professional occupation as a surgeon in the Royal Navy. Having found the means of attending the medical classes in the university of Edinburgh, he applied himself with indefatigable ardour to his studies, though we are not aware that he gained any other distinction beyond that of the esteem of his class-fellows, and the approbation of the respective professors under whom he studied; with some of whom he continued on terms of intimate friendship till the day of his death. Having passed the necessary examinations, and taken his surgeon’s degree, he experienced little difficulty, during the late extensive and long continued war with France, of obtaining an appointment as a surgeon in the royal navy. In this capacity he was employed, during a series of years, on various stations, and among others in the Indian ocean; and throughout the whole of that important period of his life, while he was assiduous in the prosecution of his professional studies, he was, at the same time, particularly careful to increase the quantity, and to extend the sphere of his general knowledge. For this laudable purpose, he applied himself with diligence to the reading of the Greek and Latin classics, and made great progress in the acquisition of the French, the Italian, and several other of the modern languages of Europe.

When, by means of the noble perseverance and the heroic bravery of Great Britain and her allies, the terrible and desolating war which had broken out at the French revolution—a war which involved not only the whole of Europe, but the greater part of the world at large in its interests, and which, during a long series of years, was carried on with unexampled pertinacity and magnitude of effort, both by sea and land—had ended in the subversion of the usurped power of Napoleon Bonaparte, and the restoration of the exiled princes of Bourbon to the royal authority which had been so long exercised by their ancestors, and when thereby peace was once more allowed to revisit the almost exhausted nations of Europe; Mr. Oudney, with thousands of his countrymen, had an opportunity of returning to his native country, and of revisiting the city in which he had received his education, and with which, consequently, he had many endearing and tenderly-cherished associations. He was now a naval surgeon on half pay, and, we believe, in the prospect of some prize-money; and, what must have been peculiarly agreeable to his mind, which was eminently gentle, sedate, and full of sensibility, he had an opportunity of witnessing the grateful and enthusiastic exultation which was exhibited by all ranks and descriptions of men for the gallant and signally important achievements, which, for the benefit and honour of the country, had been accomplished by the service with which he had been so long connected, and by which the dignity and the independence of the British empire had been so gloriously sustained.

Mr. Oudney, on his return, found his mother and his young sisters residing in Edinburgh, and with these near relations, who ever were, and continued to the last to be, the objects of his duteous affection and tender solicitude, he once more domesticated; and while he treated his mother, now advancing into the vale of years, with the respectful attention and kindness which filial regard alone can dictate, he was to his sisters at once a father and a brother. He put them in the way of receiving a good education, was careful to impress upon their minds the lessons of virtue and religion, and introduced them to society of a higher grade than, without his assistance, they could have hoped to associate. Indeed, during the whole period of Mr. Oudney’s public service, his mother and his sisters had never ceased to engage his solicitous attention; and to assure them of his affection towards them, and of his desire to minister to their comfort, he had from time to time sent them money so long as his public duties kept him at a distance from their society. This fact, so worthy of being recorded and remembered to Mr. Oudney’s honour, is a proof that his mind, which had been early impressed, continued to be steadily actuated, by a sentiment, which has long formed a distinguishing feature in the character of the Scottish peasantry; namely, the obligation so deeply felt, and so generally acted upon by them, of contributing to the support of their aged and dependent relatives. To form and to cherish this generous principle in the minds of the young, constitutes a part of their religious education, and hence spring many of those pure and lofty virtues which are often seen exemplified even in the humblest walks of life, and which are nowhere depicted with more truth and feeling than in the immortal pages of Burns. This is a trait in the Scottish character which is truly ennobling, and which we fondly hope no change of manners will ever weaken or efface.

As soon as Mr. Oudney had settled in Edinburgh he resumed his professional studies, and having completed the curriculum, prescribed to those who wish to take the degree of Doctor of Medicine, he obtained that academical rank upon the first of August 1817, his inaugural dissertation being “De Dysenteria Orientali,” a subject to which his attention was doubtless directed by having had an opportunity of observing the character and treatment of that disease during the period of his naval practice. He now became a medical practitioner in Edinburgh, and was very careful to observe and record the symptoms and circumstances which, in that capacity, came under his notice. While he was thus employed, he was in the habit of imparting the result of his observations to his medical friends, and among others, to Dr. Abercrombie of this city, who, once and again, in his communications to the “Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal,” has mentioned Dr. Oudney with approbation, and incorporated his young friend’s information with that of his own. We likewise observe in the same Journal (for July 1820) a paper by Dr. Oudney, entitled, “Cases of Ileus from a twist of the colon,” and we are assured on the authority of one of the most intimate of his medical friends, that he frequently sent communications to the “London Medical Journal.” At this period he was assiduous in the study of chemistry and natural history. Botany, especially, engaged much of his attention; and, we believe, he was indebted to the late Dr. Scott for much valuable information on this interesting department of physical knowledge. He and Dr. Scott commenced a botanical work on the grasses; he was employed by Dr. Duncan in arranging the plates of a botanical work belonging to the university library; and, we have been told, that at one time he entertained serious thoughts of becoming a lecturer on British botany. We know that he was enthusiastically attached to this study, and oftener than once we have accompanied him when he went on botanical excursions. He not only attended the natural history class in the university of Edinburgh, so ably taught by Professor Jameson, but he became likewise a member of the Wernerian Natural History Society, which, under the auspices of the same professor, has long held a conspicuous place among the scientific associations of the country.

It is a singular circumstance in the feelings and character of Dr. Oudney, that although the sedateness of his disposition and the benevolence of his heart made him enjoy the quietness and the comfort of home, and the interchange of the kind affections with his relations and friends around the domestic hearth, with a peculiar degree of satisfaction; although his steadiness and attention, joined to his professional experience and skill, were fast procuring for him an extensive medical practice; and although he could have formed a matrimonial alliance both agreeable to his feelings and advantageous to his prosperous establishment in life: yet, such was his love of distinction as a scientific traveller, and so strong was his desire of exploring distant, and of discovering unknown regions, that he was willing, for a while, to forego every other consideration for the sake of gratifying this master-passion of his mind. The hope of having it in his power of visiting foreign countries, and of extending the boundaries of physical knowledge, stimulated him to persevere in those scientific pursuits which were especially fitted to qualify him for accomplishing this purpose on which he had so steadfastly set his heart; and caused him to make his sentiments on this subject known to such individuals as he supposed had influence sufficient to promote the object which he had in view. For this end, he would have had no objections to have resumed his public services as a naval surgeon, trusting that he might be sent to some station favourable for prosecuting the inquiries which he was so anxious to make. But the interior of Africa was the field of investigation on which his own wishes were bent. The considerations, that the climate of that country had been fatal to so many former travellers, and that its inhabitants had showed themselves averse to have it traversed by strangers, were unable to exert an influence over his mind sufficiently strong to deter him from engaging in the enterprise if he should have it in his power to make the attempt. He felt that his constitution was vigorous; he had already acquired some knowledge of tropical climates; and he trusted that he possessed prudence and precaution sufficient to enable him to surmount every opposing obstacle, and to conduct any expedition on which he might be sent to a favourable and satisfactory issue. And sooner, we believe, than he expected, he had an opportunity of putting his sanguine anticipations to the test of experiment.

When it was known that government had resolved to send a new expedition to explore the central parts of Africa, and especially to trace the course, and endeavour to ascertain the termination of the Niger, Dr. Oudney, through the influence of Professor Jameson, along with Major Denham, and Captain Clapperton, was, greatly to his own satisfaction, appointed on this interesting mission. He had no fears of losing his health by travelling, was very sanguine that his labours would be crowned with success, and, being amply provided with instructions, by his friend Professor Jameson, how to prosecute his inquiries, and to collect and preserve specimens of the natural productions of the countries he was about to visit, he took farewell of his friends in Scotland and went to London in the summer of the year 1821. And we are peculiarly happy, that by means of a regular series of letters to his eldest sister, and to some other of his correspondents, we are enabled not only to make him give a luminous account of the rest of his career, but also to impart much new and valuable information respecting the countries in which he travelled. The first of the Doctor’s letters from which we shall take an extract, is one which he sent to his friend Mr. James Kay, surgeon of the Royal Navy, from London, on the eve of his setting out on his expedition.

“Here I am actively engaged in business of one kind or another. But I expect to finish and arrange every thing to day; for it is probable Clapperton and I shall depart to-morrow morning, unless the mail be detained a few days, a thing which I understand often happens. I have found every thing very agreeable here. Those with whom I have had to deal have been exceedingly polite, and in most respects have forwarded my views as far as possible. Our worthy friend Clapperton gets on amazingly well. I am in high spirits respecting my mission; from all that I have been able to learn, very little danger, and scarcely any impediments, are to be apprehended. We have got excellent fowling-pieces and pistols, and a most valuable assortment of philosophical instruments. The former, I hope, except for the purposes of natural history, will scarcely be required—an agreement exists between the British government and the pasha of Tripoli respecting the conveying of travellers safe to Bornou, therefore, so far as he is concerned, all is safe.”

The next letter in the series from which we shall quote is addressed to his eldest sister, and is dated “Malta, October 17, 1821.”

“This is certainly a curious island, it was originally a barren rock, but the labour of man has done wonders. Soil has been transported from different places, on which many gardens have been formed. The town is a strong fortress, celebrated in history for the noble stand which it made against the whole power of the infidels. You can have no idea of the houses from any thing you see in Edinburgh. The roofs are all flat, and well fitted for a warm climate. The entrance is capacious and gloomy, not unlike that of ancient baronial castles. The rooms are lofty, the floors of which are paved with stone; and the walls are generally decorated with large paintings. There is one very fine church, St. John’s, the floors of which are all of the finest marble, with some fine specimens of mosaic work, and the walls are adorned with beautiful paintings and well executed sculpture. There are, however, many marks of decay on the exterior of the building, which, by the bye, does not present that grand appearance that one would expect.”

The two letters which follow in the series are both dated “Tripoli, October 24, 1821,” and relate principally to what occurred on the passage from England to Africa.

“We are here at last, and a pretty place it is; so built, however, that three can scarcely walk a-breast in the streets: every few yards a house is in ruins, for there exists among the Moors a strange dislike to repair any thing, particularly houses. Whether that arises from indolence or superstitious notions, I cannot tell, but the fact is evident to the most superficial observer. Our passage to Malta was exceedingly agreeable—long certainly, but pleasant company prevented tedium. I visited the galleries at Gibraltar, and was highly pleased with the grandeur of the design. Your favourite fort, Malta, excited very little interest in my mind, not that the place is deficient in interest, but we were fretful from experiencing great harassment from individuals who ought to have forwarded our views, so that a disinclination to enjoy any thing was induced. On our arrival here, we found matters far beyond our expectation; far to the south of Bornou is open to us, and almost entirely subject to the pasha of Tripoli. All our route is clear and free from danger. The pasha’s word is a law not to be disobeyed, and he has pledged himself to protect us fifty-seven days’ journey beyond Bornou. On our landing, that favourable intelligence made us leap for joy. The Mahometans here are a most liberal sort of men, and tolerate people of every religious persuasion—a circumstance almost unknown in any other Mahometan country. The police is admirable, so that a stranger may traverse every part of the city without the least apprehension. As to the moral condition of the people, I can say but little, as I have had very imperfect opportunities of observing them.

“I must now describe to you my introduction to the pasha. The court-yard was filled with people of very different complexions, mostly the servants, guards, and relations of the pasha. The group had a most motely appearance; many were superbly dressed, others were in rags and filthy in the extreme. The room in which his Highness was seated was decent, with nothing gaudy. He sat at the farther end of the room, and his two sons sat on chairs at the other end of it; while many of his guards and ministers stood in different positions round the chamber. He was grave, and his muscles were as motionless as those of a statue, so much so that I was several times inclined to laugh. The gravity, however, ceased after a little conversation, and then a scene was displayed far from being disagreeable. He conversed with apparent pleasure on the success of his arms, and on the great distance to which he could convey the mission in perfect safety. That, you may be assured, was agreeable intelligence to us, and inspired us with hopes of almost certain success. I had to prescribe for him, for no sooner had I entered the room than my advice was requested. The two sons present were tolerably good-looking men; the elder of them was corpulent and very like his father; and the younger of them tall, slender, and, upon the whole, a good-looking young man. The pasha’s dress was clean, plain and neat. I hope we shall be able to set off early in December—a fine season for travelling—and expect to eat our new yearday’s dinner in Mourzuk. We travel in European dresses, and in this respect we shall be different from most of the former travellers in this part of Africa. The pasha approves of our resolution, and the consul is highly delighted with it. Indeed, on reflecting seriously on the matter, I think the plan is by far the most judicious. Hypocrisy almost always engenders suspicions; and the people well know that our pretensions to be of their religion are only feigned.”

With regard to the last-mentioned statement of the above letter, we know that Dr. Oudney was resolute in his determination not to travel under an assumed name and character. He was too sincere and conscientious a Christian ever to venture to lay aside the avowed practice of its duties for the attainment of any purpose whatsoever. He was strongly urged by some of his scientific friends to endeavour to control his scruples on this subject, and, like his predecessors in the same scheme of exploring Africa, to travel as an Arab and a disciple of Mahomet, but without success; and he declared that he would far rather abandon the enterprise to which he had been appointed, than even in appearance to renounce his faith. It so happened that the humour of the pasha of Tripoli, and the circumstances of his dominions at the time they were traversed by the mission to which Dr. Oudney was attached, favoured his design. It is quite clear neither Dr. Oudney nor his companions could have travelled in Africa as Mahometans, from their comparative ignorance of the languages of the east, and of the rites of the religion of the Arabian prophet. None of them had the preparatory training previous to the commencement of their journey as was enjoyed by Burckhardt and others; so that they must have been quickly detected as impostors had they assumed the profession of Islamism; and it is very true, as the Doctor remarks, that an exposed hypocrite is an odious character in any country. It is quite obvious, however, that the more familiar travellers are with the language of the people among whom they travel, and the better acquainted they are with their manners and customs, and their religious tenets and ceremonies, they will thereby best secure their confidence, and be the better enabled to adapt themselves to all circumstances, persons, and seasons, which they may meet with, as well as greatly increase their means of obtaining the knowledge of which they are in search. But whether Dr. Oudney’s declared resolution to travel as an Englishman and a Christian be approved of or not; or whether his conduct in this respect may or may not be imitated by others, every one must admire the honest sincerity of heart, and the unbending integrity of principle which his resolution manifested. There is another letter to his sister of the same date as the preceding, which likewise contains some facts worthy of being published.

“Tripoli, October 24, 1821.

“It is with the sincerest joy I communicate to you my safe arrival here. Every thing smiles and promises complete success to our enterprise. Accounts arrived here a few days ago, that the pasha’s army had penetrated to fifty-seven days’ journey beyond Bornou—a circumstance exceedingly favourable to us, as no danger need be apprehended the greater part of the way we design to take. This town has a very indifferent appearance. I expected to see numerous domes and gilded minarets, but such is not the case; a few ill-shaped plain minarets are the only objects that relieve the eye. The houses are clumsily built, with windows looking into a square court. The roofs are all flat, and on them the Moors enjoy themselves in the evenings, smoking their pipes. The streets are narrow, and, from the deficiency of windows, have a very sombre effect. The inhabitants consist of Moors, Jews, Christians, and Negroes; and although most of them are poor and filthy, and live in miserable dwellings, yet they may be regarded as happy; for there is here more toleration than in any other Mahometan country.

“I have been presented to the pasha. He was sitting, with great dignity, on his couch, in the manner of eastern princes, and with a slight nod returned our salutations: he appeared to be about the middle size—very corpulent—and apparently about forty years of age. He was grave—a necessary part of the ceremony, I suppose—for it vanished considerably when he began to converse. He promised us every protection through all his dominions, which extend far to the south, and said he should astonish Britain by the distance he could conduct us all in safety into the interior of the country. The castle he inhabits is far from being neat and clean, and many of his attendants present a very shabby appearance. The neighbouring country has nothing prepossessing; a few date and other trees line the outskirts of the town; but for many miles beyond this there is nothing but sand. In a few days we intend to make an excursion with a party into the mountains, and to the remains of an ancient Roman city. In my next, I shall give you some particulars of the excursion.”

None of the letters in our possession contain any thing relative to the mountains or the antiquities in the neighbourhood of Tripoli; but we remember to have heard extracts of a letter from Dr. Oudney to one of his friends in Edinburgh, dated Tripoli, 30th of October 1821, in the Wernerian Natural History Society; and these extracts formed the result of the excursion which he tells his sister he intended to make to the mountains of Tripoli and to the ruins of a Roman city. His next letter to his sister is dated Tripoli, December 10th, 1821, in which he says—

“I am busy making preparations for my journey, which I expect to commence about a fortnight hence. Every thing goes on well, and the prospects of success are of the most promising kind. The climate here is delightful, neither too hot nor too cold, but a just medium. A considerable degree of cold, however, may be expected during the time of part of our journey; but it is easier to remedy cold than heat. My health is excellent, and I hope it will continue so.”

TO THE SAME.

“Gardens near Tripoli, February 18, 1822.

“I cannot take my departure without telling you that I am well and happy. I should have left Tripoli yesterday had the weather been favourable; and if it be fine to-morrow I shall go. Every circumstance promises a prosperous journey, and in a short period you may expect gratifying intelligence. Our cavalcade is large, consisting of thirty camels at least, and several horses and mules. We have abundance of every thing, and consequently expect to be very happy. Clapperton is well, and sends his best compliments to you.”

TO THE SAME.

“Mourzuk, April 12, 1822.

“I arrived here on the seventh instant, in high spirits and the best health. Our journey to this place was exceedingly pleasant, and far surpassed my most sanguine expectations. The people have all been exceedingly kind, and have treated us in the best manner possible. Every respect has been shown us since we left Tripoli, and we have not experienced the slightest difficulty, or been exposed to the least danger. The country over which we passed was dreary in the extreme. In many places not a blade of grass, nor a single shrub, for several days together, was visible. Notwithstanding that circumstance, there is always something interesting in Nature; even in her most sterile states there are objects to observe and admire. The different Oases, in our way, were visited with pleasure, and the flowing accounts which travellers have given of these spots were found to possess a considerable degree of correctness. It is only necessary for a person to be travelling for several days over nothing but gravelly and sandy plains, to have his mind brought into a fit state to admire these fertile spots. It is as yet doubtful how long I may be obliged to remain here; but you may rest assured it will be as short a time as possible. The town is much better than I expected, and the house allotted for the accommodation of the mission is a very excellent one. The principal people have treated us with every kindness, and all endeavour to make us as comfortable as possible.”

TO THE SAME.

“Mourzuk, May 12, 1822.

“Here I am, thank God, well and happy. The climate is hot, but I have not experienced it very disagreeable. My health, indeed, has been better since I left home than it was for a long time before. Clapperton and I have been visiting a number of different places, and intend spending our time in that way for the next two months, when I hope we shall be able to proceed to Bornou. The soil is sandy, and we have no other tree but that of the date. There is, however, abundance of this sort, and its fruit forms the principal sustenance of many thousands of the people. Without this tree, the whole country, from this place to Bornou, would be a dreary waste. You perhaps know that no rain falls here; on that account corn fields and gardens are not to be expected. At the expense, however, of much labour and care, as the ground requires to be continually watered by streams from the wells, we have many of both. We have always plenty of good water, at all times, a circumstance which, in a country destitute of rain, you will be apt to think is rather singular and curious, but it is one which you cannot be expected to understand were I to enter into any explanation of it. All the places in Fezzan exhibit a sameness of aspect. The towns are formed of mud houses, generally of one flat; they have, for the most part, an old ruined castle in the centre; and all of them are surrounded by walls. On the outside of the towns, and in some places within the walls, a few abodes are constructed of the leaves of the palm. The people are really a fine race, and have uniformly treated us with the greatest kindness. Wherever I go, and every day that I remain in this town, I have numerous applications for medicines. Some of the applicants have very curious complaints, which, were I to state them to you, would make you laugh heartily. Many of them, however, are real, and for which I can in general prescribe something for their relief. We are much better here than we could have been in Tripoli. We meet every day with persons from the country we are going to visit, and from those through which we have to pass. We thus make friends that may be of considerable service to us in our future investigations. We are all living comfortably, in a tolerably good house in the castle; and often in the mornings, about sunrise, take a ride round the town. It is not safe to go out much in the sun; we, therefore, in this respect, follow the example of the natives, and stop within during the heat of the day.”

The Doctor’s next letter is addressed to Professor Jameson, and is dated “Mourzuk, June 6, 1822.”—This letter is valuable, both as it is expressive of his affectionate and grateful remembrance of his friend and patron, and as it conveys the result of his own observations of the physical state of the country which he had visited, to one whom he well knew could duly appreciate the value of his remarks; and who, at any rate, as they had reference to Natural History, he was aware, would regard them as the best return he could make for the kindness he had previously received from the Professor. We likewise think that the letter is made up of matter sufficiently interesting to a large proportion of our readers, to excuse us for transcribing it entire. While it tends to illustrate Dr. Oudney’s character, it shows, at the same time, the devotion of his mind to the objects of his mission to Africa.

“My Dear Sir,—I intended to have written you long ago, but my time has been so occupied by such a variety of objects, that really I could not. I am much disappointed in the climate of Fezzan, agreeably so; the temperature under cover is not much greater than in other places in the same parallel of latitude. Now it is June, and the maximum of daily heat is seldom above 90 degrees, while the minimum is about 80 or 78 degrees of Fah. The air is dry, as indeed several of my instruments show too well; for the ivory on several has shrunk so as to render them useless. The tube of one of the attached thermometers is bent like a bow from being confined. In another, the pressure of the glass has broken the brass clasps. The Hygrometer of Kater, generally stands at 38 or 38.5. Instruments affected by the hygrometrical state of the air, and by sound, are useless in a climate such as this. I mention sound, for instruments which act by delicate wheels are very soon deranged, and disappoint the scientific inquirer. The Barometer varies a little: there is always a change, particularly from 11 A.M. to 8 or 9 P.M. The mercury becomes depressed, in general, about the 20th part of an inch, sometimes, however, nearly a 10th. During northerly winds, the mercury rises, and in most cases, the stronger the breeze the greater the rise; from that circumstance, I have been able to predict strong breezes from that direction. On the contrary, southerly winds cause depression, and that commonly in proportion to the violence of the wind. I have not yet calculated the mean height, but it must be about 28.600 inches at the temperature of 80 Fah. Water boils at 207 Fah.; and both of these circumstances indicate a considerable elevation.

I have anxiously searched for springs, but have found none fit for an accurate result. The whole country is a spring, if I may use the expression, for water comes bubbling up on digging a few feet; its temperature then is affected by the earth, and the heat indicated is of no use in ascertaining the mean temperature of the place, and consequently its elevation. The abundance of water in a country in which rain scarcely ever falls, and in which there is no dew, is a curious and interesting circumstance to the philosophic inquirer. It is not generated in the earth, and it cannot be supplied by the sea. From whence then does it come? Is it from the tropical rains? Or is it from rivers lost in the earth? The supply is constant, and the wells yield as much at one time as another. The supposition that appears most probable to me is, that the countries to the southward are much higher than this, that during the rainy season water penetrates a considerable way into the earth, till it meets with strata resisting its farther descent, and then that it flows along these like a river to far distant countries. My explanation may be censured, but still on reflection, I regard it as the most probable that I can think of. There is another interesting feature in Fezzan, namely, the constant formation of salt on the surface of the sand. In travelling along, the different stages of the process are very distinctly observable. First, a thin crust is formed like hoar frost, and this continues to increase in thickness. In some places the layer of salt is a foot deep. At present I must defer the explanation of this phenomenon till I shall have time to enter upon the description of the geological structure of Fezzan—a thing I hope I shall soon be enabled to do. In the mean time the courier is waiting, and the camels are ready to convey us to Ghaat. My worthy friend Clapperton and I are just on the point of setting out on a visit to that country, that we may render our delay here as serviceable as possible. The Tuarick country is, perhaps, interesting only on account of its inhabitants, who are a brave, independent race. Clapperton and I have been at Tucta, and we were both struck with the general uniformity of the scenery and the structure. He desires to be kindly remembered to you, and intends to write you soon. We expect to be able to set out for Bornou in two or three months.”

The next letter in the series is addressed to his sister, from “Mourzuk, August 6, 1822;” and though both it, and the one which follows to Professor Jameson, relate to the Doctor’s excursion to Ghaat, or the Tuarick country, of which an account is given in the “Narrative of Travels and Discoveries,” made by the mission, published by Major D. Denham and Captain H. Clapperton, in 1826; yet, as they contain some interesting particulars which will not be found in the “Narrative,” our readers, we trust, will thank us for inserting them in this biographical memoir. In the letter to his sister, he says,—

“My worthy friend Clapperton and I have been busily engaged ever since our arrival here. Within the last two months we have been travelling much, and have examined to the extent of at least 800 miles of country. We experienced little fatigue, and in place of being weakened, our health has been greatly improved. We have been among the Tuaricks, and have been treated by that independent and curious people with the greatest kindness and hospitality. They occupy all that dreary waste which you see in the maps called the ‘Great Sahara,’ and live on the milk and flesh of their camels. The care of these animals, and occasional excursions upon the neighbouring states, are their principal occupation. They are a superstitious race; but have good sense withal. They were so much our friends, that we might have travelled, in perfect safety, over the whole of their dominions.”

TO PROFESSOR JAMESON.

“Mourzuk, September 17, 1822.

“When I wrote you last, I was just on the eve of departure for the Tuarick country, and in about a fortnight from this date, I hope we shall be on our way to Bornou. We found our journey to Ghaat very pleasant, and our reception very flattering. We were among a brave and warlike race, exceedingly superstitious; yet they were sensible; and though remarkably strict Mahometans, yet liberal in their ideas. The geology and botany of the country are nearly the same as in Fezzan, which I cannot enter upon at present. We made long excursions in the Wady (valley) Ghrurbi, and Wady Shiati, which Captain Lyon incorrectly joins. In our course we examined the Trona Lake, which is situated among amazingly high sand hills, running for several hundreds of miles to the westward, and lie between the Wadies Shiati and Ghrurbi. The lake is in a small valley which runs nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W. The north and south sides are bounded by hills of sand about 400 feet high. The bottom of the lake is a fine sand, on which is found the cegoul, (apparently a species of silex) and a downy grass. Near the place where we entered the valley there is a cluster of date palm trees, and a small lake from which impure Trona is obtained. On the western side is the Trona lake, surrounded by date trees, and its banks covered, on almost all sides, with the grass I have mentioned, and a tall juncus. It is almost half a mile long, and nearly 200 yards wide, of very inconsiderable depth at present (July) from the evaporation of the water, and many places are now dry which are covered in the winter and spring. The Trona is deposited in cakes at the bottom of the lake when the water is sufficiently saturated. The cakes are of various degrees of thickness, from a mere film to several inches. The thickest I could find was not more than three quarters of an inch, but at the beginning of the winter, when the water begins to increase, it is of the thickness I have mentioned, and is then said to be ripe. The surface next the bottom is not unequal from crystallization, but rough to the feel on account of numerous asperities. The upper surface is generally found studded with small beautiful cubical crystals of muriate of soda; the line of junction is always distinct, and one crystal is easily separated from another; when not covered with the muriate of soda, this upper surface is composed of a congeries of small tabular pieces, joined in every position. When the mass is broken, there is a fine display of circular crystals often radiated. The surface of the water is covered in many places with large thin sheets of carbo-muriate of soda, giving the whole the appearance of a lake partially frozen over; film after film forms till the whole is a considerable thickness. The soil of the lake is a dark barren sand approaching to black, of a viscid consistence and strong smell; and on the recently uncovered surface, near the banks, a black substance like mineral tar is seen oozing out. The water begins to increase in the winter, and in the spring it is at the maximum. The Trona is best about the commencement of winter, but disappears entirely in the spring.

“The lake has diminished in size within the last few years, and if care be not taken, the diminution will soon be much greater. Plants are making considerable encroachments, and very shallow banks are observable in many places. On inquiry, we found the quantity of Trona had not sensibly diminished during the last ten years; but, perhaps, this may be owing to there being always easily found a sufficient quantity of it to supply every demand. The quantity annually exported amounts to between 400 or 500 camel-loads, each being 4 cwt.—a large quantity when the size of the lake is considered. It is removed only when there is a demand. Then a man wades into the lake, breaks off the Trona in large sheets, which he easily does, and hands it to others outside, who are ready to remove all foreign matters, and to pack it in the retecious substance found on the leaves of the date tree. The water of the valley is good, and if a well be dug in the very border of the lake the water is also good, and nearly free from saline impregnation. There are a great many springs in Wady Shiati, and a number in the wadies about Ghaat. All of them, however, were so exposed, that it was impossible to make any correct observations. The maximum heat of Mourzuk is 105 Fah.—a great difference from that mentioned by Captain Lyon. The greatest diurnal change is about 15 degrees—a variation which is pretty regular. The hygrometer of Kater varies from 360 to 410—an amazing small range. My worthy friend Clapperton, sends his kind respects to you, and promises to write you from Bornou. We enjoy the best health, and accomplished our summer’s excursion without fatigue. Remember me kindly to Mr. P. Niell, and tell him the Flora of Fezzan, and of the Tuarick country is very poor; but that in a few months I expect to be on a soil more congenial to the votaries of the fascinating goddess.”

TO HIS SISTER.

“Mourzuk, November 4, 1822.

“It is now beginning to get very cold here, the mornings are nearly as chilly as with you, so that we find it necessary to have recourse to warm clothing. The people are really very obliging, but they are great beggars. They are always asking for one thing or another, and very frequently I feel it necessary to reject their suit. They are lively, and the lower orders are fond of dancing and music. The dances are not like those in our country, and the musical instruments and tunes are as rude and wild as is the country to which they belong. How would you like to be locked up always in the house and never allowed to go out, as are many of the women here? The lower orders, indeed, are exempted, and they are more happy than those who can boast of their rank. This place is much more tolerant than many other Mahometan states; and we have lived here as safely as we could have done in Auld Reekie.”

TO THE SAME.

“Gatroni, December 5, 1822.

“We have commenced our journey, and find travelling very pleasant. We find it very cold, particularly in the mornings and evenings—a circumstance which obliges us to wrap ourselves up the same as in your northern regions. Our company is a very large one; it consists of nearly 300 men, of whom 200 are Arabs sent for our safety. I would have been better pleased to have had none, as the road is free from danger, and the people no way to be dreaded. We have never, thank God, had had any thing to fear—our path has been smooth. With good conduct, I expect our dangers will be few, some hardships must, doubtless, be encountered, but where can we be without them? The people here are mostly Teboos, a different race from the natives of Fezzan. Some of the women have very pretty countenances and a lively expression. I have just been witnessing some of their dances, which are really very chaste and pleasing. They want the spirit of your reels, and resemble the movements of a minuet. There is something smooth and sweet in the songs that always accompany these performances, but the instrumental music is grating to the ears. We leave this to-morrow; it is the joyful period we have long looked forward to. We go under most propitious auspices, and all, I trust, will be well.

TO THE SAME.

“Kuka, Kingdom of Bornou, April 2, 1823.

“I dare say you begin to fear, but you have no reason, for we are all as safe as you are. We arrived here a month ago, and were received in the most flattering manner. Several thousand horsemen were sent out to conduct us to town. The sheikh was very kind, and has continued so ever since. He is the chief man; the sultan is nothing. The climate is very hot, and the heat will continue till the rains set in, which will not be for three months yet. The heat at present is about the same as it is at the hottest season in Fezzan. The inhabitants are two distinct races—the black and the copper-coloured. The former are Bornouese, and the latter are ———. We have found them both very obliging. Our journey here was pleasant, but it was over a dreary country. It yields no grass, and the wells are several days’ journey from each other. Few animated beings are to be seen in these deserts, and, unless for the purposes of gain, they are shunned by man. I have been rather unwell myself, but, thank God, I am now nearly well, and intend setting out on an excursion through Bornou, in three or four days. I had a slight fever and a troublesome cough which is now better. In our excursion I do not expect to see much that is interesting, as all the country we have passed over is much the same. There are often thickets of trees with grass, which is all dried up. Near the town there are many open spaces, on account of the trees having been cut down for firewood. Near a great lake called Spad, elephants, hippopotami, and antelopes are met with in great numbers; my friend Clapperton has shot a great many of the latter. He is quite an enthusiast in the chase, and has been very successful. He enjoys the best of health, and is as stout as ever. This is far from being a disagreeable country, but it is deficient in fruit and vegetables—a circumstance we did not expect so far to the southward, and which we feel as a great privation in a warm climate. We have provisions in abundance, especially fowls and sheep, the latter being very cheap,—40[1] for a dollar—a vast difference from what you must pay for your mutton. Still there is not that comfort in living here that you experience; and although you must pay more for some of the articles you use, yet, perhaps, you live cheaper than we can. There are no great beauties among the females of this place, yet many of them have pleasing countenances. All of them have their hair done up in a peculiar manner, which must require great patience and labour. They have among them four or five different fashions, each however adheres to her own, and it serves to distinguish the town to which she belongs, and the race from which she is descended; and so these African fashions may have continued many generations without change. It is quite a different thing with your fashionables, who must have something new every month. The dress is very simple, being merely a piece of blue calico, which comes up nearly to the shoulders, and a similar portion that passes over the head. Beads are a common ornament; you do not see a single female without them, and the rich have broad girdles, which they take care every now and then to show.

TO THE SAME.

“Kuka, July 14, 1823.

“Since I wrote you last I have got very little new to communicate. But you will be glad to hear that my health is now much improved. I have been travelling about during the last six weeks, for the purpose of visiting the different places of importance; and I have reason to be well pleased with the treatment I have everywhere experienced; all have been civil—kind. There is indeed very little left for me to desire, every thing having so far exceeded my expectations. The sheikh Canmi, governor of Bornou, has been like a father, granting every indulgence, and showing every kindness. At the end of the rains I hope to go into Soudan, to make discoveries there, the people are good, and the country very interesting. Our houses are not waterproof like yours. They are little round places of mud with straw roofs. There are neither stones nor lime in the whole kingdom, so that large substantial houses cannot be built for want of materials. The streets are frequently knee-deep with water from the rain of a few hours. The thunder is awful, but the lightning seldom does any damage. There are very few poisonous animals, and noxious insects are very rare. I think, if every thing turns out as I expect, I shall be home in little more than a year. I have nothing to dread, and have never had a wakeful night from fear.”

It would be an easy matter for a severe critic to point out many incorrect expressions in these letters, as it is obvious they were all written off-hand amid the hurry and anxiety of the avocations connected with the mission, and certainly never meant to meet the public eye. But, we think, they cannot be perused without producing a deep impression that their author was devotedly attentive to the performance of his public duties—that he possessed a sanguine temperament and a well-informed mind—and that his heart was actuated by a sense of the obligations of friendship, and the kindly feeling of fraternal affection. With regard to this latter sentiment, indeed, it is quite clear, from that portion of the letters to his sister which—as relating entirely to private and confidential matters—has been suppressed, that his anxiety for the welfare of his relatives was never absent from his thoughts, and that the desire to afford them protection, and to minister to their comfort, was the constant and powerful stimulant to his exertions. The substance of the second of his letters to professor Jameson was printed in the volume published by Denham and Clapperton, giving an account of the result of the mission in which they, along with Dr. Oudney, had been sent. The first letter to the professor, however, contains original matter, as well as the most of those to his sister; and had he lived to return home, and reduce his memoranda to a state fit for publication, we have reason to believe that he would have greatly enlarged our knowledge of Africa. The Doctor and Clapperton set out towards Soudan about the middle of December 1823, while Major Denham went on an exploratory excursion in another direction; and while engaged in its prosecution, he received a short note from Dr. Oudney. It was brought from Katagum. “It had no date, and was indeed his last effort. The acknowledgment of being weak and helpless,” says Major D., “assured me that he was really so; for, during the whole of his long sufferings, a complaint had scarcely ever escaped his lips. On the Shiekh’s saying to him, when he first expressed his wish to accompany the Kafila, ‘surely your health is not such as to risk such a journey?’ he merely replied, ‘why, if I stay here I shall die, and probably sooner, as travelling always improves my health.’ This letter, though short, expresses great satisfaction at the treatment he had met with on his journey, and also from the inhabitants of the country.”[2] Captain Clapperton’s letter to Mr. Consul Warrington, dated Kano, 2d February, 1824, contains the last scene of this mournful history.

“The melancholy task has fallen to me to report to you the lamented death of my friend Dr. Walter Oudney. We left Kuka on the 14th day of December 1823, and by easy journies arrived at Bedukarfea, the westmost town in the kingdom of Bornou; during this part of the journey, he was recovering strength very fast, but on leaving Bedukarfea and entering the Beder territory on the night of the 26th, and morning of the 27th, we had such an intense cold that the water was frozen in the dishes, and the water-skins were as hard as beards. Here the poor Doctor got a severe cold, and continued to grow weaker every day. At this time he told me that when he left Kuka, he expected his disorder would allow him to perform all his country expected of him, but that now his death was near, and required me to deliver his papers to Lord Bathurst, and to say he wished Mr. Barrow might have the arrangement of them, if agreeable to his Lordship. On the 2d of January, 1824, we arrived at the city of Katagum, where we remained till the 10th, partly to see if the Doctor, by staying a few days, would gain a little strength to enable him to pursue his journey. On leaving Katagum he rode a camel as he was too weak to ride his horse. We proceeded on our road for ten miles that day, and then halted; and, on the following day five miles further, to a town called Murmur. On the morning of the 12th, he ordered the camels to be loaded at day-light, drank a cup of coffee, and I assisted him to dress. When the camels were loaded, with the assistance of his servant and I, he came out of the tent. I saw then that the hand of death was upon him, and that he had not an hour to live. I begged him to return to his tent and lay himself down, which he did, and I sat down beside him; he expired in about half an hour after.