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A Birder's Guide to North Dakota

Chapter 27: d) Bowman County
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About This Book

A practical field guide to locating and observing birds across North Dakota, organized by geographic regions and counties and supplemented by habitat descriptions, seasonal behavior, and site-specific notes. It surveys prairie, wetland, forest, and badlands environments, highlights regional birding specialties and productive sites, and provides directions, species occurrence information, and timing tips for visits. Maps, species accounts, and an index support trip planning, while discussion of habitat variation and water management clarifies how seasonal conditions and land use influence bird distribution.

There are six lagoons, and the bird life is different at each. Because the water levels are constantly changed and controlled, this area is especially productive during dry summers when the potholes in the area dry up. Check the ponds with low water levels for shorebirds, pipits, and longspurs.

Twenty-seven species of shorebirds have been found; most are typical of similar habitat throughout the area—American Avocet; Lesser Golden Plover (peak numbers have reached 6500 in late September); Black-bellied Plover; Semipalmated Plover; Killdeer; Ruddy Turnstone; Marbled Godwit; Willet; Red Knot; Dunlin; Sanderling; Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs; Short-billed and Long-billed Dowitchers; Solitary, Spotted, Stilt (often in large numbers), Pectoral, Baird’s, Least, White-rumped, Semipalmated, and Western (uncommon) Sandpipers; Common Snipe; and Northern and Wilson’s Phalaropes.

Both Sprague’s and Water Pipits occur in migration (most commonly in fall and mostly in October). The latter species is much more common. Longspurs appear by the thousands in October, especially in the fields and ditches surrounding the lagoons. Although the majority will be Laplands, check carefully for Smith’s and Chestnut-collared. Snow Buntings can often be found by driving the dikes in November.

The ponds with deeper water are the ones to check for ducks and grebes. Large concentrations occur in April, September, and October, when close to twenty species of ducks and geese may be found. The geese are more often seen resting on mud bars or on the dikes than on the water. Most will be Canadas and Snows (both phases), but a few Greater White-fronteds are seen. All of the ducks and grebes normal to the area can be expected, and the lagoons have even managed to attract such rarities (for this part of the state) as Oldsquaw (very early spring), Greater Scaup (possibly regular but overlooked), White-winged Scoter, and Red-necked Grebe. Other species found at the lagoons in the past include Double-crested Cormorant, Sora, Franklin’s Gull, Bonaparte’s Gull, and Black Tern. The gulls alone have presented quite a spectacle on different occasions, with peak numbers of over 30,000 Franklin’s and 200 Bonaparte’s present at one time.

Make sure to lock the gate on the way out and return the key. Remember, the accessibility of this area in the future depends upon you.

NORTH FARGO SEWAGE LAGOON

Another fruitful spot for transient shorebirds and waterfowl is the West Fargo Sewage Lagoons. To reach them, start at the signal light at Main Avenue and 1st Street in West Fargo. Travel 1.0 mile north, turn left (west), and continue for 1.0 mile to the lagoons. The water levels are usually rather high, so shorebirds are not abundant. However, these ponds do attract a large variety, including some of the larger ones such as Marbled and Hudsonian Godwits. When the grassy ditches bordering the ponds are filled with water, it is not unusual to find Common Snipe and Wilson’s Phalarope.

The main attraction is the number of waterfowl using the lagoons in migration. April seems to be the best month. The ducks, all in their best spring plumages, appear to cover the water’s surface. The Lesser Scaup is usually the most numerous, but several other species vie for second honors. Mallards, Common Pintails, Gadwall, American Wigeon, Northern Shovelers, Blue-winged Teal, Redheads, Canvasbacks, Ring-necked Ducks, Ruddy Ducks, and Common Mergansers are usually common every spring. Other species occurring in smaller numbers are Green-winged Teal, Wood Duck, Common Goldeneye, and Bufflehead. The birder who has the patience to check out all of the ducks present may turn up something extra-special such as a Greater Scaup, Oldsquaw, White-winged Scoter, Red-breasted Merganser, or Hooded Merganser. Common Loons; Eared, Horned, and Pied-billed Grebes; Whistling Swans; Canada, Snow, and Greater White-fronted Geese; and Northern Harriers also visit the lagoons at some time.

WEST FARGO SEWAGE LAGOON

RICHLAND COUNTY

b) Richland County

To reach what may be the best river-bottom habitat in the southeast sector, start from the town of Leonard (southern-most Cass County) and go 1.0 mile south on State Highway 18. Turn left (east) on State Highway 46 and go 5.0 miles before turning right (south) on Highway 18 again as it leaves Highway 46. Drive 4.0 miles and turn right (west). (If you miss the turn, in another mile you will come to the Sheyenne River.) Go 5.0 miles and turn left (south). Stay on this road as it begins to follow the river east. After about 5 miles, you may start birding.

This area is well-wooded with American elm, green ash, bur oak, basswood, and many other species. There is also a lush under-story. It is typical of Sheyenne River bottomlands throughout the area with one important difference: this area is not posted nor fenced. It is one of the few good stretches still open to the public. The birds are representative of deciduous forest communities in this sector of the state. Migrants pass through in large numbers, and, because of the great amount of habitat available, this area holds one of the highest densities of wintering birds in the state.

Three species could be considered as specialties of the area—Barred Owl, Pileated Woodpecker, and Scarlet Tanager. All nest in the vicinity. This is the only area in the state where the Barred Owl is known to nest, and the other two species are quite restricted as well.

After 7.6 miles turn left (north) at the 4-H sign. After 2.3 miles you will reach the road on which you entered. Turn right (east) and continue 4.0 miles back to Highway 18.

c) Sargent County

The Tewaukon National Wildlife Refuge, an area for transient and nesting waterfowl and marsh species, can be reached by starting just north of Cayuga at State Highway 11 and going south on County Road #12 through the town. After 4.7 miles you may turn left on a dirt road, which wraps around Lake Tewaukon. However, you may wish to continue on to the headquarters (turn left at a sign 5.5 miles south of starting point) to get a map, bird-list, and current information on birds and road conditions.

There are four large water-areas on the refuge—Lake Tewaukon, Cutler Marsh, White Lake, and Clouds Lake. All are supplied by the Wild Rice River and its tributaries. The refuge also contains several hundred acres of upland terrain dotted with potholes.

Perhaps the most spectacular aspect of the bird life is the numbers of geese which stop here in migration. Spring flights are greater than those in fall, with peak populations of over 100,000 geese (mostly Snow Geese of both color phases) present at one time. In addition, large numbers of ducks pass through, and several species nest. Eared, Western and Pied-billed Grebes all nest, and small numbers of American White Pelicans and Double-crested Cormorants can be seen throughout the summer.

Although the great numbers of geese usually get the most raves from out-of-staters, there is a more interesting side to the refuge from the North Dakota birder’s standpoint. It and other similar marshlands in the southeastern sector draw into the state several species with more southern affinities. A good example is the Great Egret. A rare migrant and late-summer visitor over the rest of the state, here, it is fairly common in late summer. Other species which could fall into such a category include Little Blue Heron, Cattle and Snowy Egrets, Least Bittern, White-faced Ibis, American Black Duck, and King Rail. All are decidedly rare, not only here but throughout the state. Although most occur every year, they are not to be expected by the visiting birder, but they do show the potential of the area.

Besides attracting all of the common migratory shorebirds, the refuge can boast of nesting Willets, Marbled Godwits, and Upland Sandpipers. Soras and Virginia Rails are fairly common in the marshy areas, as are Marsh and Sedge Wrens. Sharp-tailed and Le Conte’s Sparrows are uncommon nesters in wet, grassy areas. The Swamp Sparrow (fairly common in migration) should be watched for in summer, because there are a few colonies nesting in the county. Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant, and in some years Short-eared Owls nest. Some of the more interesting upland species include Gray Partridge, Bobolink, Dickcissel, Lark Bunting, Grasshopper Sparrow, Clay-colored Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

d) Ransom County

A nice woodland area may be reached by going west on State Highway 46 from State Highway 32 about four miles west of Enderlin. Go 12.6 miles and turn left (south) at the sign to Little Yellowstone State Park.

This park is not an outstanding birding spot, but it can be good in spring and fall, and it does offer a pleasant spot to camp. It is well wooded and therefore good for any of the species typical of this habitat, as well as for accipiters and owls (Great Horned and Common Screech). Most of the transient warblers found at Fargo also occur here, although some of the more marginal eastern species, such as the Northern Parula, are not to be expected this far west. Large numbers of sparrows frequent the brushier areas during migration. Some of the more abundant species include White-throated, White-crowned, Harris’, Lincoln’s, American Tree, and Field Sparrows.

e) Barnes County

BARNES COUNTY

Lake Ashtabula, located predominantly in Barnes County, provides several interesting birding spots. One of the best is around Baldhill Dam. To reach the dam from Valley City, take Main Street East through the downtown area. Take the first right (Central Avenue North) after the city park and follow the signs for Lake Ashtabula, Baldhill Dam, and the Fish Hatchery. At 12th Street Northeast turn right. After 0.3 mile turn left at a sign for the dam. Continue for 0.8 mile and turn left after the grain elevator toward Wesley Acres. After 1.8 miles the fish hatchery will be on your left.

The Valley City National Fish Hatchery grounds provide prime birding for woodland passerines, especially during migration. The ponds are often good in spring and early summer for American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Black and Forster’s Terns, and all of the swallows found in the state. Later in summer when the ponds are being drawn down for fish removal, there can be excellent viewing of shorebirds. A display of captive waterfowl is located on the grounds, where you may drool over (but not count) Barnacle Geese and others.

After leaving the hatchery, continue north on the same road, keeping an eye out for Wild Turkeys in the field to your left. These turkeys have been stocked and restocked by the fish and game department until a sizable flock has been built up. The most consistent spot along this road for seeing them is on your left in 2 to 4 miles. The road forks 6.6 miles north of the hatchery. The left fork winds up at Baldhill Dam. By going straight, you will come to a recreation area after 0.8 mile. You can get from one spot to the other by walking the dike.

Yellow-headed Blackbird

The area surrounding the dam contains many diversified habitats. Almost any type of bird may be found here: grebe, waterfowl, wader, shorebird, raptor, gallinaceous fowl, gull, tern, or passerine. The grassy hillsides around the parking lot may harbor Ring-necked Pheasants in any season. A footbridge over the dam and onto the dike is a good vantage point, providing a good view of a stretch of the Sheyenne River below the dam. Both Eastern and Western Kingbirds may be seen on the hillsides leading down to the river, and as many as six species of swallows (Cliff, Barn, Tree, Bank, Rough-winged, and Purple Martin) hawk for insects over the river. The Cliff and Tree are the most numerous. American White Pelicans and Black-crowned Night Herons can usually be seen fishing directly below the dam. This is also a good place to check in winter and early spring for Common Goldeneye and Common Merganser. By scanning the sandbars farther downstream, you should be able to find several species of shorebirds during migration. Ring-billed Gulls will be constantly circling overhead from spring to fall. In spring and fall keep your eyes and ears open for flocks of geese and Sandhill Cranes flying overhead.

Across the bridge, there are steps down the side of the dike to several settling ponds which are productive in migration for shorebirds such as Semipalmated Plover, Baird’s Sandpiper, both species of yellowlegs, and Marbled and Hudsonian (rare) Godwits. Franklin’s Gulls may be seen in numbers in spring and fall (especially in October).

If you visit the dam from the recreation area, walk down the side of the dike and check the river at the first point available. The water ends here in a quiet pool surrounded by trees and brush. Oftentimes, a Green Heron will fly as you enter. This has been a consistent spot for it. Black-crowned Night Herons, Wood Ducks, and Spotted Sandpipers are common along the river from here to below the dam. In May the brush and trees are often crawling with warblers. In September and October, the brushy borders are full of sparrows, including Song, Lincoln’s, White-throated, White-crowned, and Harris’.

The wooded ravines will usually produce the following nesting species: Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Great Crested and Least Flycatchers, Eastern Pewee, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow Warbler, Northern Oriole, Indigo Bunting, and Rose-breasted Grosbeak.

From the recreation area continue northeast for 2 miles and turn left (north) on the first intersecting road. After about 2 more miles you will come to a sign reading “Sundstrom’s Landing Recreational Area”. On the right across from the sign, a gravel trail leads up the small hill to some prairie habitat worth investigating. Look for Eastern Bluebird, Dickcissel, and Grasshopper Sparrow. Clay-colored Sparrows are particularly numerous. Before birding this spot continue for 0.2 mile to the recreation area to park your car. For easterners, the bird of most interest is the Western Kingbird, a sure thing at the recreation area. American White Pelicans can be seen from the point, and Western Grebes are occasionally found. Check small wooded ravines in the area for migrant passerines.

One of the best spots in Barnes County for viewing migrating waterfowl and shorebirds is Hobart Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The lake can be seen from I-94, about 7.0 miles west of Valley City. However, there is no place along the interstate to stop and scan. For viewing purposes, take I-94 west from Valley City and turn right (north) at Exit 1 for 1.4 miles to the lake.

Large numbers of Snow and Canada Geese use the refuge in migration, and American White Pelicans are usually present during early and mid-summer. Grebes, shorebirds, and some ducks can be found throughout the summer. The refuge is especially good for Whistling Swans, with up to 1,000 or more present for several weeks in fall.

Continue past Hobart Lake for 2.9 miles to the Sanborn Waterfowl Production Area. This marshy area is good for Soras and Virginia Rails, Marsh Wrens, and, when the water levels are low, shorebirds. Watch also for Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows. Continue west on Highway 1 for another 3.9 miles to check a large alkaline lake that is excellent for shorebirds.

A fruitful spot for migrant and breeding passerines is the Clausen Springs Recreational Area. To reach it, go south on Highway 1 from I-94 for 15.5 miles, turn left (east), and follow the signs to the springs. If you are coming from the south, go north on Highway 1 for 2.0 miles past Highway 46 (not far from Little Yellowstone State Park), turn right (east), and follow the signs.

This can be a delightful spot to bird on a hot summer day! There is a small lake, a pleasant stream, and lots of trees for shade. It is good for all of the regular migrant flycatchers, warblers, vireos, and sparrows. It also attracts some interesting breeding birds, one of which is the Orchard Oriole. This is one of the better spots in the southeastern sector for this species. Other nesting species include Belted Kingfisher, Western Kingbird, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Pewee, House Wren, Eastern Bluebird, Yellow Warbler, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, and Song Sparrow. Clay-colored Sparrows are common on the grassy hillsides, and the lake occasionally attracts some ducks or shorebirds.

f) Stutsman County

The best birding area in this county, Arrowwood National Wildlife Refuge, ranks as one of the best in the state. The starting point is the north edge of Edmunds (northwest of Jamestown on U.S. Highway 281). From here, turn right (east) at the refuge sign onto County Road #44. After 5.4 miles you may turn left to the headquarters, or just beyond you may turn right for the self-guided auto tour.

A visit to the headquarters is suggested, not only for information but also for some good viewing of waterbirds along the way. In summer look for Western, Eared, Horned, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; numerous ducks; gulls (including an occasional California); terns; shorebirds; swallows; and blackbirds. Ask at the office for a map, checklist, and information on desired species and access to other parts of the refuge.

While here, you may wish to inquire about Chase Lake National Wildlife Refuge, which is administered from Arrowwood. This lake is of interest because it has what is reputed to be the largest nesting colony of American White Pelicans in the world. Large numbers of Double-crested Cormorants and Ring-billed and California Gulls nest here.

Access is limited in order that people will not disturb the birds. The only roads leading to the lake are better described as trails and, for the most part, do not get too close. This is no real loss, because all of the species here can be found easily elsewhere.

The auto tour at Arrowwood is a must. In summer check the boggy areas surrounded by weedy fields at the start of the tour for Willow Flycatcher, Marsh and Sedge Wrens, Bobolink, Dickcissel, and Savannah, Grasshopper, Clay-colored, Le Conte’s (uncommon), and Sharp-tailed (uncommon) Sparrows. Most of the route traverses fine grasslands dotted with many species of shrubs, including silverberry and wolfberry. In these areas watch for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, Sprague’s Pipit, Baird’s Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Other nesting species include Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Gadwall; Common Pintail; Mallard; Green-winged, Blue-winged, and Cinnamon (rare) Teals; American Wigeon; Northern Shoveler; Wood Duck; Redhead; Ring-necked Duck; Canvasback; Lesser Scaup; Ruddy Duck; Swainson’s Hawk; Northern Harrier; Ring-necked Pheasant; Sora; Virginia Rail; American Coot; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Forster’s and Black Terns; Long-eared Owl (rare); Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Black-billed Magpie (uncommon); Loggerhead Shrike (uncommon); Yellow-headed Blackbird; and Lark Bunting.

g) Kidder County

KIDDER COUNTY

The Baird’s Sparrow is rather common in the area surrounding Salt Alkaline Lake. To reach the lake take the Crystal Springs Exit (#18) off I-94, drive west on the lateral road along the north side for 1.5 miles, and turn north. After 1.7 miles you will pass a lake on the right side with a sign saying “Waterfowl Production Area”. There is another on the left. Salt Alkaline Lake is 2.7 miles ahead on the left. At 5.0 miles from the freeway, turn left for a closer look.

Both Salt Alkaline Lake and the lake before it have grassy borders, which are summer havens for Baird’s Sparrows. In 1976, Burrowing Owls nested in bordering fields and should be watched for again. Also check for migrant ducks and shorebirds. The mixed-grass prairie along the road is good for Chestnut-collared Longspur.

A prime spot for Sprague’s Pipit is also within easy reach of I-94 in Kidder County. Take the Tappen Exit (#46) and drive 4.0 miles north on County Road #71 to an extensive pond. Check the grassy margins for the pipit. This area has one of the highest breeding densities in the state. For best results the entire marshy area should be skirted. To do so drive another 1.0 mile north, 1.0 mile west, 2.0 miles south, and then 1.0 mile east back to County Road #71. By walking the appropriate grassy edges, you should have little problem in finding the bird. Just remember to respect any “No Trespassing” signs that might be encountered.

Still another great location is the Alkaline Lake Game Area. From Tappen (Exit #46) go south for 15.0 miles on County Road #71, and turn left (east) for 2.6 miles to the lake.

This large alkaline lake is a mecca for waterbirds in spring, summer, and fall. All of the regular grebes of North Dakota occur at one time or another. The Western Grebe nests in abundance. American White Pelicans and Double-crested Cormorants can usually be found, because they range far from their nesting area on Chase Lake. Large numbers of all of the regular ducks, gulls (watch for California), and terns can be expected from April to October. This lake is especially good for shorebirds, among them American Avocet, Semipalmated and Piping (uncommon—nests) Plovers, both yellowlegs, Willet, Stilt Sandpiper, both dowitchers, Ruddy Turnstone (rare), Pectoral Sandpiper, Dunlin (rare), Sanderling, all of the peeps, and Wilson’s and Northern Phalaropes.

The Slade National Wildlife Refuge can be productive for waterbirds, but it is not outstanding. Skip it if time is limited. To reach the refuge take Exit #45 (Dawson) from I-94, and turn south on State Highway 3. After 3.0 miles turn left (east) at the sign. On the way you will pass a nice marsh where large numbers of grebes (especially Eared and Western), ducks, gulls, and terns congregate. Just 0.3 mile after turning there is a fork. Here you may go either straight (east) to the headquarters, or right (south) through a segment of the refuge.

h) Logan County

LOGAN COUNTY

Probably the best birding in this county lies in and around Beaver Lake State Park. From Napoleon, travel south on State Highway 3 for about eight miles, turn left (east) at the sign, and drive 6.5 miles to Burnstad. At this point there are two routes. The left (north) goes 2.0 miles to the park itself. (There are plenty of signs marking the way.) The other goes south on a dirt road for 1.7 miles to several extensive ponds and marshy areas.

The lake may be good in migration for loons, grebes, waterfowl, pelicans, and cormorants. It has a lot of open water that is deep enough to attract some of the rarer northern ducks such as Oldsquaw, Black Scoter, or White-winged Scoter. The few trees and brushy tangles should be checked in spring and fall for passerines, especially sparrows (The Harris’ can be common at times.).

The ponds south of Burnstad can be particularly productive for all marsh species from spring through fall. Close views may be obtained of American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Great Blue Herons, Black-crowned Night Herons, American Bitterns, Soras, Virginia Rails, Black and Forster’s Terns, Marsh Wrens, Common Yellowthroats, Yellow-headed Blackbirds, and almost any grebe, duck, or shorebird common to the state.

SOUTHWESTERN NORTH DAKOTA

Black-headed Grosbeak

The southwest sector will be of the most interest to visitors from the east. While marshlands are generally fewer here, there are still a few areas that attract large numbers of waterbirds. For the most part, all of the North Dakota prairie specialties can be found. The uniqueness of this area lies in its penchant for attracting western species which are marginal in the state.

Dickcissel

The infrequent water areas (including wooded river bottoms), the extensive sage prairies, the evergreen forests, and the arid badlands serve to attract species such as Cinnamon Teal, Prairie Falcon, Golden Eagle, Sage Grouse, Mountain Plover (accidental), Long-billed Curlew, California Gull, Burrowing Owl, Poor-will, Lewis’ Woodpecker, Say’s Phoebe, Western Pewee, Black-billed Magpie, Clark’s Nutcracker, Rock Wren, Sage Thrasher, Mountain Bluebird, Townsend’s Solitaire, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (accidental), Black-headed and Blue Grosbeaks, Lazuli Bunting, Gray-crowned Rosy Finch, Brewer’s Sparrow, and McCown’s Longspur.

Although some of these species should not be expected by the visitor, the true degree of regularity of their occurrence is not really known because of the lack of observers in this area. If you have the spare time for exploring, do it here. Not only may you turn up an exciting western lifer for yourself, you may add to our knowledge of the status of certain marginal species as well.

a) Burleigh County

Water areas (especially large marshes) are relatively few in the southwestern sector. Probably the best of these is Long Lake National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it go south on Highway 83 (Exit 40) from I-94 for 12.0 miles before turning left (east) at the sign. Refuge roads lead around Long Lake and through some good marshes.

During migration, this is one of the best spots in the state. Some of the more interesting migrants are: Whistling Swan; Canada and Greater White-fronted Geese; Cinnamon Teal (rare); Common Goldeneye; Bufflehead; White-winged Scoter (rare); Hooded (rare), Red-breasted (rare), and Common Mergansers; Golden and Bald Eagles (uncommon); Peregrine Falcon (rare); Whooping (rare) and Sandhill Cranes; Semipalmated, Lesser Golden (rare), and Black-bellied (rare) Plovers; Ruddy Turnstone (rare); both yellowlegs; Hudsonian Godwit (rare); Sanderling (rare); Northern Phalarope; Solitary, Pectoral, Baird’s, White-rumped, Least, Stilt, and Semipalmated Sandpipers; Herring, California, and Bonaparte’s Gulls; Sprague’s Pipit; Le Conte’s (rare), Sharp-tailed (rare—may nest), and Harris’ Sparrows; and Lapland Longspur.

Although migration is the most exciting time, the refuge should not be by-passed in summer. Species to be seen then include Horned (uncommon), Eared, Western, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Mallard; Gadwall; Common Pintail; Green-winged and Blue-winged Teals; American Wigeon; Northern Shoveler; Redhead; Canvasback; Lesser Scaup; Ruddy Duck; Swainson’s, Red-tailed, and Ferruginous Hawks; Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Virginia Rail; Sora; American Coot; Piping Plover; Killdeer; Willet; Spotted and Upland Sandpipers; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Ring-billed and Franklin’s Gulls; Common, Forster’s, and Black Terns; Short-eared Owl; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; all of the regular swallows; Marsh and Sedge Wrens; Loggerhead Shrike; Bobolink; Western Meadowlark; Yellow-headed, Red-winged, and Brewer’s Blackbirds; Dickcissel; Lark Bunting; Grasshopper and Baird’s Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Another area which is often good is McKenzie Slough. To reach it take Exit #39 off I-94, and go south through McKenzie. The slough begins just south of the town. When water levels are high enough, the following nesting species can be expected: American Bittern, Mallard, Common Pintail, Blue-winged Teal, Gadwall, Ruddy Duck, American Coot, Pied-billed and Eared Grebes, Sora, Marsh Wren, Common Yellowthroat, and Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds. During migration, this spot attracts many of the same species found at Long Lake. Chestnut-collared Longspurs nest in the pastures along this road (south of the slough).

The city of Bismarck (population 34,703) lies on the east side of the Missouri River in western Burleigh County. Not only is it the state capital, but also it contains a habitat unique in the region—Missouri River bottomland forest. At one time almost four hundred miles of this habitat could be found. It stretched from the South Dakota border in the south-central part of the state to the Montana border in the northwestern part. The construction of dams brought about the subsequent flooding of the bottomlands until the forests had been reduced to a 75-mile stretch between Bismarck and the Garrison Dam and a few miles from Lake Sakakawea to the Montana border. Much of what little remains is being cleared for housing and agriculture.

Nesting species found in this habitat include Red-tailed Hawk; American Kestrel; Wild Turkey; Mourning Dove; Black-billed Cuckoo; Great Horned Owl; Common Flicker; Red-headed, Hairy, and Downy Woodpeckers; Least Flycatcher; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; Blue Jay; Black-billed Magpie; American Crow; House Wren; Brown Thrasher; Gray Catbird; American Robin; Veery; Eastern Bluebird (usually restricted to semi-open areas and adjacent fields); Cedar Waxwing; Red-eyed, Warbling, and Bell’s (rare) Vireos; Black-and-white (uncommon) and Yellow Warblers; Ovenbird; Yellow-breasted Chat; American Redstart; Orchard and Northern Orioles; Common Grackle; Brown-headed Cowbird; Scarlet Tanager (rare); Black-headed Grosbeak; Indigo (uncommon) and Lazuli Buntings; American Goldfinch (open areas); Rufous-sided Towhee; and Chipping, Clay-colored, Field (open areas), and Song Sparrows.

The woodlands bordering the Missouri River are the best places in the Bismarck vicinity to look for migrant passerines, such as Red-breasted Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Hermit, Swainson’s, and Gray-cheeked Thrushes; Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets; Black-and-white, Tennessee, Orange-crowned, Magnolia, Yellow-rumped, Blackpoll, Palm, and Wilson’s Warblers; Northern Waterthrush; Purple Finch; Northern Junco; and Harris’, White-crowned, White-throated, Fox, and Lincoln’s Sparrows. Birds to watch for in winter include Great Horned Owl, Common Flicker, Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers, Blue Jay, Black-billed Magpie (semi-open areas and margins), Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted Nuthatch, American Robin, Purple Finch, American Goldfinch, Northern Junco, and American Tree Sparrow (open areas). Both species of waxwings can be found in most years as well.

SIBLEY ISLAND

Typical bottomland habitat can be found near Sibley Island. To reach it start at the Bismarck Airport on the road to the terminal and drive south on Highway 1804 for 2.1 miles. Turn right (west) on a surfaced road. After 0.5 mile you have a choice of continuing straight (west) or turning left (south). To reach the best habitat, turn left and follow the road as it swings to the left. Go 2.2 miles (.5 mile past the bend) and turn right at the sign to the Girl Scout camp.

The road passes through excellent bottomland habitat. This consists mostly of cottonwood, green ash, box elder, and to a lesser extent American elm and bur oak. The understory, which is thick in some areas, includes Wood’s rose, red-osier dogwood, snowberry, bittersweet, and wild grape.

After birding around the camp, drive all the way to the river. From the high banks you will have a good vantage point from which to look over the sandbars for the area’s three specialties—Piping Plovers, Little Terns, and skinny-dippers. The latter species, although cosmopolitan in range, is quite rare in North Dakota. (When present they are “hard to miss”.)

The Piping Plover can sometimes be found in good numbers. This is one of the best areas in the state for them. Likewise, this stretch of the river is the only known nesting site for the Little Tern in North Dakota. When looking for them, remember that their locations vary from year to year, depending on the sandbars. The best way to find them is to check as many points along the river as possible. A spotting scope would be very useful in looking for all three aforementioned species.

If you do not get the plover or tern here, backtrack 2.2 miles to the fork before the Girl Scout camp and turn left (west). Drive 0.5 mile to 12th Street or 1.5 miles to Washington Street. By taking either south you will eventually reach the river. The view at the end of Washington Street is better, but access may be difficult if the river is high. During migration you may want to check General Sibley Park along Washington Street for passerines.

b) Morton County

The city of Mandan lies in Morton County just across the Missouri River from Bismarck. Most of the birds here are about the same as on the other side of the river, but there are some important exceptions.

To reach the best spots, take I-94 west to Mandan and turn off onto Main Street (I-94/Highway 10 Business Loop). Turn left (south) on 6th Avenue Southeast at the sign to Fort Lincoln State Park. This street becomes Highway 1806 and leads to most of the better birding spots.

Fort Lincoln State Park (about four miles south of Mandan) is worth a visit. It is not a particularly good spot for birds, although you will probably find typical upland species present. The most interesting feature of the park is its historical significance. There are three important sites: 1) the Slant Indian Village, which was once occupied by the Mandan Indians, 2) Fort McKeen Infantry Post, which was occupied by the 6th Infantry, and 3) Fort Abraham Lincoln, home of the colorful George Armstrong Custer and his famous 7th Cavalry. The two military posts were active in the late 1800’s. The park also offers an interpretive museum, picnic sites, and several modern camping sites (complete with electrical hook-ups).

Continue south on Highway 1806 for 6.0 miles to the Little Heart River. Turn left on an unmarked side road just north of the bridge. This passes under an old railway trestle and through a field of alfalfa and tall wheat grass. A colony of Sedge Wrens has nested here in recent years. This area is also dependable for Gray Partridge, Bobolink, American Goldfinch, Dickcissel, and Grasshopper Sparrow. At the field’s edge and in the woods look for Cedar Waxwing, Veery, Yellow-breasted Chat, Northern and Orchard Orioles, Lazuli Bunting, Black-headed Grosbeak, and other typical bottomland birds.

Several roads lead from Highway 1806 down to the river, some of which you may want to take in order to look for bottomlands species and migrants. Some 4.0 miles past the Little Heart River Bridge, a small road leads left to a good point for Piping Plover and Little Terns.

Another interesting spot is 6.8 miles past the bridge. Here, you will enter a small badlands with several severely eroded buttes, much like those in the extreme western part of the state. Watch for Turkey Vulture, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Western Kingbirds, and Say’s Phoebes (rare; look near old buildings). Rock Wrens can be surprisingly common. The best way to find them is to park and walk past eroded buttes. It is just a matter of watching and listening for their distinctive series of trills.

Rock Wren

A great place for winter birding is the Northern Great Plains Research Station in Mandan. To reach it, continue west on Main Street past Highway 1806 and turn left after one mile on Highway 6 (8th Street Northwest). Cross the railroad trestle and continue on 10th Avenue Southwest for 0.8 mile to a bridge. Just beyond, turn right at the sign.

These grounds are good for winter birding because of the conifers. Look for all of the regular winter species and for invaders such as Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings, Pine Siskins, Purple Finches, Pine (rare) and Evening Grosbeaks, Red Crossbills, and Golden-crowned Kinglets. The Townsend’s Solitaire, although rare, has been a fairly frequent visitor in recent years. The trees are good also for roosting owls. With luck, you may even turn up a Long-eared Owl.

c) Dunn County

DUNN COUNTY

Yet another location for migrant and nesting waterbirds is Lake Ilo National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, start just south of the town of Killdeer at Highway 22, go east for 3.0 miles on Highway 200, and turn right at the sign.

Drive south through the mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s Hawk, Ring-necked Pheasant, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Horned Lark, Lark Bunting, Lark and Grasshopper Sparrows, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. Turn left (2.0 miles) and bird until the road dead-ends at a farmhouse.

To bird the rest of the refuge, return to Highway 200 and head east again. Turn right (1.5 miles) toward the recreation area (just before the cemetery). After 0.3 mile the road forks. Go straight (keeping right) and follow the road as it heads to the lake and then makes a little square back to the road on which you entered. By taking this little loop you will get a good view of Lake Ilo. From this vantage point look for Common Loon (rare migrant), Western Grebe, American White Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, Great Blue Heron (lake edges), Black-crowned Night Heron (lake edges), ducks and geese, and Sandhill and Whooping (rare) Cranes (migration—lake edges).

After taking the loop, turn right and drive 0.4 mile. Turn left and almost immediately swing to the right (at the fishing sign) and head toward the lake. Turn right at the sign pointing to the headquarters (0.5 mile). After 0.8 mile you may do three things: 1) turn right to the headquarters for information, 2) go straight for a different view of the lake, or 3) swing left to the slough.

The slough is the best area for birding. After swinging left, proceed for 0.8 mile, turn left, and drive for 1.1 miles past the entire marsh.

Species to be seen from spring to fall include Red-necked (rare), Horned (uncommon), Eared, Western (uncommon), and Pied-billed Grebes; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Mallard, Common Pintail; Blue-winged Teal; Northern Shoveler; Gadwall; American Wigeon; Ruddy Duck; American Coot; Sora; Virginia Rail; Killdeer; Spotted Sandpiper; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Black Tern; Belted Kingfisher; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Barn, Cliff, and Tree Swallows; Marsh Wren; Common Yellow-throat; Red-winged, Brewer’s, and Yellow-headed Blackbirds; and Song and Savannah Sparrows. Many other ducks, shorebirds, and swallows may be seen as migrants or as occasional summer visitors.

After driving by the marsh, turn right, south for 1.0 mile, and turn right on a road through a mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Chestnut-collared Longspurs and possibly for Baird’s Sparrows.

d) Bowman County

Bowman Haley Dam Refuge

Because of its position in the very southwestern corner of the state, Bowman County is one of the most exciting to bird. If you are going to find any truly western vagrants, your chances are better in either this county or the next two.

The best spot for both waterbirds and grasslands species is Bowman-Haley Dam National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it go north on U.S. Highway 85 from the South Dakota border for 5.3 miles, and turn right on an improved gravel road at a sign saying “Bowman-Haley Dam Recreation Area”. (This turn-off is about 11 miles south of Highway 12 near Bowman.) Go 5.0 miles east and turn right (south) at the sign saying “Point Rec Area 3 Miles”. After 2.0 miles turn left (east).

In the first mile check the roughly-plowed fields for McCown’s Longspurs in both spring and summer. After 1.3 miles the road becomes narrower and grassier and begins to loop around the lake. It should still be passable in all but wet weather. From 1.3 miles until 4.8 miles (where the road ends at a fence), you will be traversing some excellent grasslands. Most are mixed-grass prairie, but close to the lake there are tall-grass fields choked with weeds.

The mixed-grass prairie is good for nesting Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, Marbled Godwit, Burrowing Owl, Sprague’s Pipit (uncommon), Baird’s Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. In the weedy fields where vegetation is taller and thicker, look for Bobolink, Dickcissel, and Clay-colored, Vesper, Grasshopper, and Savannah Sparrows.

For a different view of the lake, back-track to Highway 85, turn right (east), drive 3.0 miles, turn right (south), go 1.9 miles until the road forks, and swing right toward the marina. After 0.2 mile bear right. This road is good for birding, and there are picnic sites as well as room to spread your sleeping bag.

The lake is mostly open water with few marshy areas. It is not particularly good for nesting waterfowl. Nevertheless, in summer you should be able to find American White Pelicans; Double-crested Cormorants; Great Blue Herons; Ring-billed, California, and Franklin’s Gulls; and Black Terns although only the latter nests. A sprinkling of ducks use the lake in summer—both those that nest here and those from neighboring marshes. During migration, check for transient ducks, geese, and shorebirds. Short-eared Owls nest in the grassy areas.

The wooded ravines, tree lines, and shelterbelts provide habitat for migrant and nesting passerines. Look for Black-billed Cuckoo, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Yellow Warbler, Orchard Oriole, American Goldfinch, and Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted race).

ROAD FROM RHAME

There are two roads in the western part of Bowman County along which most of the specialties of the area can be found. The first starts from the town of Rhame (northwest of Bowman on U.S. Highway 12). From Rhame go south on a paved road for 6.0 miles. Watch for a power relay station (Slope Electric Cooperative) on the left, and turn right (west) on the next road (paved). Start watching the fields and roadsides for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Merlin (rare), Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Western Kingbird, Loggerhead Shrike, Lark Bunting, Vesper Sparrow, and McCown’s and Chestnut-collared Longspurs.

After 5.0 miles the road swings south. Stay with it for 7.0 miles, and turn right (west) on a dirt road, which starts to zigzag south just beyond a cattleguard some 2.2 miles ahead. Go 2.8 miles and watch on the right for a large field peppered with black sage. Check here in summer for Sage Grouse, Long-billed Curlew, Sage Thrasher (very rare), and Brewer’s and Lark Sparrows.

Rock Wrens and Belted Kingfishers nest in the eroded buttes by the stream, and Say’s Phoebes and Cliff Swallows nest under the bridge. Lark Buntings and Lark Sparrows are rather common.