H.—Hazel colour, 128.
Indigo Extract, 64-70; for green, 135-139.
Iron, 29-30.
K.—Kermes, 87-91.
Kilo. Kilogramme. Equals 2 lbs. 3·2 oz.
Korkalett, 50.
Lavender, 84.
Ley, see lye.
Linen, 21; to bleach, 22; the mordanting of, 26; various kinds of, 21.
Litre, 80. Nearly 1¾ pints.
Lixiviation. The process of separating a soluble substance from an insoluble by the percolation of water.
Lixivium. (Lye). A term often used in old dye books. Water impregnated with alkaline salts extracted by lixiviation from wood ashes.
Lye or Ley. Any strong alkaline solution, especially one used for the purpose of washing, such as soda lye, soap lye.
Magenta, 44.
Maize, 132.
Mercerised Cotton. Cotton prepared by treating with a solution of caustic potash or soda or certain other chemicals. Discovered by John Mercer in 1844.
Milling. The operation of fulling cloth.
Mordants, 24; general remarks on, 34; primitive mordants, 25.
Muriate of Tin, 31.
Myrobalans, 26, 35, 36. The fruit of several species of trees, growing in China & the East Indies, containing tannic acid, (25-40% tannin).
O.—Oak bark, 128.
Oil of Vitriol, 64, 65, 67. Sulphuric acid.
Old Fustic, see Fustic.
Onion skins, 128.
Orange, 91, 93, 102, 106, 109, 120, 132; from lichens, 48, 51, 58, 60-2.
Organzine. Twisted raw silk from best cocoons, used for warp.
Orseille, 58.
P.—Pastel, 77. Woad.
Peach, 120.
Peach wood, 106-107.
Pearl ash. Carbonate of Potash.
Peat Soot, 128.
Persian Berries. The dried unripe fruit of various species of Rhamnus. Also called French berries, Grains of Avignon.
Philamort, 48.
Plum colour, from lichen, 48.
Potassium Carbonate. (Potashes). Carbonate of Potash has been known since ancient times as a constituent of the ashes of land plants, from which it is obtained by extraction with water. In most cases Sodium Carbonate, which it strongly resembles, can be used in its place.
Potassium dichromate, 32.
Purple, from lichens, 53, 57-60, 62; with cochineal, 95, 96; with logwood, 82, 85, 86, 87.
Purple Dye Plants, 43.
Q.—Quercitron, 116-120; for green, 135-137.
R.—Red, 87-107; from lichens, 48-51, 53, 56, 58, 60.
Red Dye Plants, 38.
Red Spirits. Tin spirits. Applied to tin mordants generally. A solution of Stannous chloride.
Red woods. Camwood, Barwood, Sanderswood (Santal, Sandal, Red Sanders), Brazil wood, Sapan wood, Peach wood.
Retting, 21.
Roucou. Anatta, Arnotto.
S.—Sandalwood or Saunderswood, 106.
Sadden, to, saddening, 14, 30, 34, 127, 130, 132. To darken or dull in colour.
Sapan wood, 106.
Saxon blue, 67, 70, 136. The dye made by Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol
Scarlet, 88, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 98.
Scarlet of Grain, 87.
Scotch ell. 37·2 inches.
Scour, to. To wash.
Scroop. The rustling property of silk.
Silk, 16-18; to alum, 18; general method of dyeing, 17; to mordant, 26; the preparation of, 17; to soften, 18; various kinds of, 16; raw, 16, 17; waste, 16.
Silver drab, 84.
Sloe, 39.
Soda ash. Carbonate of soda.
Soda ley, 101.
Sour water, 28. —To every gallon of water, add 1 gill vitriol; stir thoroughly. Stuff steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, otherwise it will rot.
(2). Water in which bran has been made to grow sour. 24 bushels of bran are put in a tub, about 10 hogsheads of nearly boiling water is poured into it; acid fermentation soon begins, and in 24 hours it is ready to use.
(3). Throw some handfuls of bran into hot water and let it stand for 24 hours, or till the water becomes sour, when it is fit for use.
Stannous Chloride, 31.
Staple, 11, 12. A term applied to cotton and wool, indicating length of fibre.
Stuffing and Saddening, 14, 30.
Substantive Dye, 24, 52, 65, 116. A dye not requiring a mordant.
Sulphuric Acid, 64, 66, 67, 70, 120, 131.
Sumach, 26, 35, 36, 126. Leaves and twigs of several species of Rhus, containing Tannic acid. It is sold in the form of crushed leaves or as a powder, (15-20% tannin).
Tin crystals, 31.
Tin salts, 31.
Tram. Slightly twisted raw silk, used for weft.
Turkey Red, 99.
Turmeric, 116.
Turquoise, 69.
Tyrian purple. A purple colour obtained from certain shell fish, such as Buccinum & Purpura. It is mentioned by Pliny as being discovered in 1400 B.C. It was a lost art in the middle ages.
V.—Valonia, 35. Acorn cups of certain species of oak from S. Europe, containing 25-35% of tannic acid.
Vegetable alkali. Potash.
Verdigris, 33. Acetate of copper.
Vitrum, 76.
Water for dyeing, 23.
Weld, 107-112, 120, 130, 134, 135.
Wet out, to. To damp, before putting the yarn or cloth into the dye.
Wool, 11; to bleach, 16; to cleanse, 15, 16; long staple wool, 12; various kinds of, 11, 12, 13.
Wool Dyeing, general methods, 13-16.
Y.—Yarn, to soften, 16.
Yellow, 107-122; from lichens, 51, 57, 140; from sumach, 126.
Yellow Dye Plants, 39.
Yellow Weed, 134.
Yellow Wood, 107.
ERRATA
page 59. Rock Urcolaria shld. be Rock Urceolaria.
page 61. Flowering lusnea shld. be Flowering Usnea.
page 144. (printed without being corrected).
Add:—Alder bark, 43, 44, 100, 126.
Almond, 120.
Amber, 132.
Argol, 131.
Ash, 41, 120.
Barwood, 67, 106.
Correct:—
authracene to anthracene
anie to añil
Roucon to Roucou
sorrounding to surrounding
Printed by Douglas Pepler at Ditchling
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.........................
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FOOTNOTES
[1] From a dye book of 1705.
[2] "On boiling sloes, their juice becomes red, and the red dye which it imparts to linen changes, when washed with soap, into a bluish colour, which is permanent."
[3] "For giving very inferior yellow upon coarser woollens, the dyer's broom, genista tinctoria, is sometimes employed, with the common preparation of alum and tartar."
[4] Sawwort which grows abundantly in meadows affords a very fine pure yellow with alum mordant, which greatly resembles weld yellow. It is extremely permanent.
[5] "The leaves of the sweet willow, salix pentandra, gathered at the end of August and dried in the shade, afford, if boiled with about one thirtieth potash, a fine yellow colour to wool, silk and thread, with alum basis. All the 5 species of Erica or heath growing on this island are capable of affording yellows much like those from the dyer's broom; also the bark and shoots of the Lombardy poplar, populus pyramidalis. The three leaved hellebore, helleborus trifolius, for dyeing wool yellow is used in Canada. The seeds of the purple trefoil, lucerne, and fenugreek, the flowers of the French marigold, the chamomile, antemis tinctoria, the ash, fraxinus excelsior, fumitory, fumaria officinalis, dye wool yellow." "The American golden rod, solidago canadensis, affords a very beautiful yellow to wool, silk and cotton upon an aluminous basis."—Bancroft.
[6] T. Edmonston. On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands 1841.
[7] The Annales de Chimie. Stockholm Transactions 1792.
[8] The Art of Dyeing. Berthollet. He gives minute directions for the preparation of Archil. See page 365.
[9] Some British Dye Lichens. Alfred Edge.
[10] From Dr. W. L. Lindsay, On Dyeing Properties of Lichens.
[11] From an article by Dr. Lauder Lindsay on the "Dyeing Properties of Lichens," in the Edinburgh Philosophical Journal. July to October 1855.
[12] Early dyers were particular as to the naming of their colours. Here is a list of blues, published in 1669.—"White blue, pearl blue, pale blue, faint blue, delicate blue, sky blue, queen's blue, turkey blue, king's blue, garter blue, Persian blue, aldego blue, and infernal blue."
[13] I give here recipes for the simpler vats which can be used on a small scale. The more complicated recipes can only be done in a well-fitted dye house. I would refer the reader to those in "The Art of Dyeing" by Hellot, Macquer and D'Apligny, and "Elements of the Art of Dyeing" by Berthollet.
[14] Woad, pastel and Indigo are used in some dye books to mean the same dye, and they evidently have very much the same preparation in making.
[16] This recipe can also be used for linen, but linen takes the colour less easily than cotton, and should have the various operations repeated as much as possible.
[17] —For other recipes for Black, see Chapter VI on Logwood.