F
Face—the right side or outer surface of a fabric or material.
Face—the table or (exposed) upper part of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.
Face cloth—a c. laid on the face of a dead person.
Face cloth—a wash c.
Face finish—meaning, in the textil trades, the manner in which the face or outerside of a fabric is finisht; as clear f., doeskin f., unfinisht, etc., which see.
Face guard—a mask or covering worn by workers in chemical laboratories; or by fencers, or baseball players, etc.
Faced—having an over or underlying strip of same or different material for purposes of appearance or re-enforcement. See Facing.
Faced cloth—fabrics having a finisht face, as worsteds, in opposition to fabrics such as tweeds, cheviots, etc.
Facet—one of the small triangular plane surfaces of a diamond or other gem.
Facing—tailoring term for an underlying or overlying strip or re-enforcement of material, the same as or different from that of the garment, as (1) the strip along the inside of coat openings which also form the face of the lapels or revers; (2) the strips of goods inside the openings of pockets so that the eyes shall not be offended with lining showing thru; (3) the covering of silk laid on lapels or revers, to the edge or to the buttonholes; (4) the contra-colored cloth, showing on the turned back skirts or revers of old-time military coats; (5) the strip of cloth extending all around the inside edges of a waistcoat from neck to bottom side seam, which is sometimes of undercollar cloth for the sake of a thinner edge; and so forth.
Faconne—figured; usually employed in connection with fancy silks.
Factory cotton—unbleacht domestic cotton goods in contrast to those which are imported.
Factory yarn—coarse, unscoured woolen y., used for knitting hose, mittens, etc.
Fad—the current vogue; transient popularity.
Fad—a hobby.
Faga—a narrow strip or sash of silk wound several times around the waist. (Spain).
Faille Francaise—a soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than gros-grain, but narrower than ottoman.
Fair—see Cotton classification.
Fair shake—a fair bargain.
Fal lal—any gaudy or trifling ornament or trinket; foppish frippery.
Falding—a kind of frieze, mentioned by Chaucer, approximating the coarse red woolen stuff still worn by Irish peasant women for petticoats and jackets.
Fall bearer—that part of broadfall trousers forming the front waist band, and to which the fall or flap is buttoned; the b. also contains the pockets. See Broadfalls. Compare Narrow falls.
Fall down—one of the old names for broadfalls (qv).
Fall weight—in the cloth trade suitings of 12 to 16 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 24 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w.
Falling band—(1) a sort of wide turned down collar, usually of linen, plain or ornamented, sometimes with floating ends or tabs; worn over the neck of the doublet or jerkin of old days; (2) an ecclesiastical neckdressing.
Falling collar—see Prussian c.
False face—what we begged pennies for when young.
False hair—someone else’s tho it covers your own bald spots.
False teeth—of great utilitarian value but, alack! also signs of immoderate vanity.
Family umbrella—facetious term for old-fashioned extra large u.
Fan—once fops carried them; nowadays women.
Fan—the side of a cockt hat.
Fancies—any merchandise not classed as staples or regulars; novelties.
Fancy back—general term for fabrics having a pattern on the back or underside differing from that on the face, as certain fancy overcoatings, raincoatings, etc.
Fancy dress ball—an occasion where one can spend a good deal of money on a costume that may never be worn again—unless he rents some trumpery from a costumer, which nice folk are squeamish about doing.
Fang—a broken or protuberant tooth.
Farmer’s satin—properly a satin wove fabric having a cotton warp and worsted filling, finisht with a high luster, used for coat linings, etc.; also called Italian cloth.
Fashion—the prevailing mode.
Fashion artist—a perverse individual who has trances twice a year or oftener for the benefit of clothing manufacturers and fashion journals.
Fashion doll—a device once extensivly used to display fashions in miniature.
Fashion monger—one who affects scrupulous attention to fashion; a dandy.
Fashion-plate—an engraving or other pictorial representation of the prevailing fashions of any period.
Fashion writer—a has-been or going-to-be literary hack who need never be taken seriously.
Fashionable—conforming to the prevailing mode; approved.
Fashionable back width—tailoring term indicating a change in measurement of the back to correspond fashionably with width of shoulder.
Fashionable tailor—one who gets the highest prices and who consequently caters only to the wealthy classes; one to whom every manufacturer of readymade clothing goes for his own clothes and for ideas for his business.
Fashionable waist—tailoring term. See Waist.
Fast color—applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or thru exposure.
Fast dye—fast color; unfading.
Fat man’s frock—a cutaway frock coat, only the top button of which is intended for use; also called “one button cutaway”.
Fat man’s sack—a sack coat made to be buttoned only at the top button, and cut away slightly from that point downward.
Fatigue blouse—(masonic) a 5 button, single-breasted, straight front sack coat, without pockets and with Prussian collar. Compare Commander’s coat and Sir Knight’s coat.
Fatigue coat—(army) for enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of brown cotton duck, of prescribed pattern.
Fatigue trousers—(army) for enlisted men: of brown cotton duck, without stripes.
Fatigue uniform—(army) for enlisted men dismounted: worn on fatigue or stable duty: f. coat, and trousers, service hat, russet leather shoes.
Favors—more or less costly trivialities distributed at cotillons.
Fay, to—to fit. “Your coat fays well”. This obsolete form, a curtailment of “fadge”, and in use during the Augustan age of English literature, is occasionally encountered in New England.
F. B. Q.—proprietary name for a well-known make of ready-to-wear clothing, meaning “finest beyond question”.
Fearnought—a heavy fulled woolen fabric used for sailors’ overcoats and clothing; sometimes called Dreadnought.
Fearnought—(weaving term). See Mixing picker.
Feather—a channel about ⅛ inch deep, extending around the edges of a shoe sole, along and into which holes for the stitches are pierced obliquely.
Feather top—see Wig.
Feathers—when commingled with tar a punitiv form of clothing worn next the body; occasionally met with in communities of zealously guarded morality.
Featherweight—very light or summery.
Fedora—a soft felt hat, the crown having a crease in the center from front to back. See Hombourg, Alpine, Tyrolean, etc.
Feel—see Handle.
Fell—felling is the act of sewing one piece of material onto another; to turn in a seam.
Fell—archaic for hides or pelts; also used in the sense of hairy.
Felled edge—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv), hand-finisht, with a felling stitch (qv), obtaining a perfectly plain surface.
Felled pocket—a jetted p.
Fellers—see Finishers.
Felling, French—see French f.
Felling silk—see Sewing s.
Felling stitch—an over-and-over continuous s. used to fasten linings onto the outer body, to hold bindings to the edge, join under-collars to body, etc., the closeness of the stitches being regulated according to the purpose for which they are used.
Fellmonger—a trader in skins, furs, etc.
Fellware—skins, furs, etc.
Felt—properly a fabric made by interlocking or compacting wool, fur or hair, or a mixture thereof, by rolling or pressure, without weaving, often with the aid of glue and heat; used extensivly in garment trimming, etc; also a woven fabric whose fibers are matted by shrinking or otherwise.
Felt shoes—s. made out of felt, wholly or in part.
Fencing glove—a padded g., with a deep cuff or gauntlet.
Fencing mask—a wire m. for the face, so constructed as to be quickly removable.
Fencing plastron—a padded and quilted leather or canvas chest and side protector with a heart sewed on to jab at.
Ferrandine—an old-time cloth, similar to poplin, of silk or silk and wool or silk and mohair, once used for waistcoats.
Ferrule—the metal end-tip of an umbrella rod or cane.
Fez—a brimless felt cap in the shape of a truncated cone, usually red with a black tassel, worn especially by Turks and Shriners.
Fibrilia—a textil material made from the fibers of flax, jute, china grass, hemp, etc., and used as a substitute for more valuable fibers; used to a limited extent in the manufacture of hosiery, blankets, etc., in the proportion of 1 part to 3 of wool, cotton, etc.
Fiddle—tailoring term for supererogatory attentions toward a customer.
Fiddleback—irreverent name for the modern chasuble.
Field belt—(army) a b. of russet leather worn by enlisted men.
Field breeches—(marine corps) of khaki serge or drill, to match f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord, loose above knees and about seat, fitting closely below knees and extending to tops of shoes, fastening with buttons and lacing or all lacing; seat re-enforced, suspender buttons inside of band, 4 belt loops. For major general command and all officers. White b. of same style may be worn by mounted officers in the tropics when not on duty.
Field coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all other officers, of khaki serge or drill, of the same design as the white undress c. (qv) except without vent for sword, and with bronze buttons; rank devices as for white c.; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted c. of 8 oz. khaki-colored cotton material, cut half close, with standing collar, in length reaching to the crotch and closed with 5 marine corps buttons, one outside bellows-plait patch pocket, with flap in each breast, other trimmings, details, etc., as prescribed.
Field dress—(marine corps) worn by all officers and men (1) in garrison when prescribed by the commanding officer, or in the tropics; (2) for duty under arms in garrison under foregoing conditions; (3) at drills, target practice, maneuvers, and on marches when prescribed; (4) in the field when prescribed; (5) when serving with marine battalions afloat in the warm season or in the tropics, when prescribed. Consists of, for all officers: f. coat, f. trousers or breeches, russet leather puttees or leggings, f. hat and cord or white helmet, sword with undress belt (leather slings) and knot, russet shoes; if mounted, spurs and drab leather gloves; in the field, the flannel shirt prescribed for enlisted men may be worn, in place of the f. coat, with rank devices on the collar and with khaki scarf. For enlisted men: (in this case called f. uniform): f. coat, f. trousers, leggings, f. hat, russet shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; in the field, the khaki shirt may be worn, in place of the khaki coat, with a web belt.
Field hat—(marine corps)for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, of felt, as sample in Quartermaster’s office; worn creased from front to rear; ornaments, etc., of bronze, in front; for all officers, of felt, the same as for enlisted men, creased from front to rear, with a double cord of scarlet-and-gold with acorns at ends; bronze corps device in front.
Field stock—same as stock or neck s.
Field trousers—(marine corps)for major general commandant and all other officers, of same material as f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord; may be worn without leggings in camp or garrison; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates of same material as coat and same pattern as white linen undress t.
Field uniform—see F. dress.
Fielder’s glove—a heavily padded, stout leather g., with a web (connected) thumb, worn by baseball players.
Fielder’s mitt—about same as basemen’s m. (qv).
Fifth avenue—a street in New York city supposed to house the elite and elect of tailordom in America; also specially mentioned for its Sunday dress parades of the “smart set”, and particularly that of Easterday. A name also prominently figuring on the window price tickets of misfit shops.
Fig leaf—a primitiv and scanty form of makeshift garment invented by Adam and Eve, the first garment makers of history, sufficiently described by its name; now obsolete to the relief of the W. C. T. U., Y. M. C. A., et al.
Fighting gloves—see Boxing g.
Fil au Chinois—name given to a well-known ball linen thread made in France, waxt ready for use and of extra strength, for tailors, shoemakers, dressmakers, leather-workers, etc.
Fil au Tonkinois—a stout sewing thread similar to fil au Chinois.
Fil guipe—a rolled or covered thread or cord of silk and tinsel, usually with cotton center, used in manufacture of trimming laces, etc.
Filature—the delicate untwisted silk threads as reeled from the cocoons, also called raw silk.
File silk—a fonetic corruption. See Faille Francaise.
Filibeg—the Highland kilt.
Filled cloth—general term for any woolen cloth that has been felted or loaded with flocks (qv) for weight, body or strength—or cheapness.
Filler cork—ground c. mixt with rubber cement or some sticky substance and used for filling in the hollow in the bottom of a shoe before the outer sole is placed on or attacht to a shoe.
Filler felt—a piece of f. used instead of cork filler, for the same purpose and in the same way.
Filling—the woof or weft threads of a woven fabric.
Financial circles—slang for dollars.
Findings—the required amounts of canvas, wigan, holland, tape, lining, felt, haircloth, buttons, etc., necessary to a garment.
Fine—see Wool.
Fine—term used in connection with gold or bullion trimming braids, indicating highest quality (in the sense, perhaps, that f. gold means pure). An inferior quality is known as mi-fine.
Fine as silk—a simile of comparison, implying excellence.
Fine cut—a delectable preparation of nicotiana tabacum.
Fine delaine—wool classification term. See Wool.
Fine-draw—to sew and close up a rent, seam, etc., with fine thread and delicate workmanship so that the joint is scarcely perceptible. See next.
Fine-drawing stitch—a practically invisible s. employed when the material is too thin or too ravelly for stoating or rentering, and for mending tears. The edges are placed together, as in stoating, except that they are not trimmed, the fray helping to cover the join. A fine needle and fine silk must be used. The needle passes in and out, catching the material lightly and without coming to the surface on the right side, making very short stitches and purposely coming uneven distances on either side of the join, distributing the strain, which would be plainly visible were the distances even.
Fine-tooth comb—a search warrant. (Definition vulgar.)
Finery—gay apparel; gewgaws; good things to avoid.
Finger cot—a covering of leather, rubber, etc., for protection to injured fingers.
Finger guard—(1) a protectiv shield of leather, rubber, etc., worn by marksmen, sailmakers, corn huskers, etc.; (2) a f. cot or stall, or protectiv covering, worn in case of accidents, by workers in chemicals, etc.
Finger ring—something affording a fine chance for the display of one’s bad taste; nowadays just a gaud; formerly of much significance.
Finishers—in clothing manufacture, expert needleworkers who fell-on or “finish” the basted-on collars, sleeves, linings, etc.
Finishing—general term for any and all the processes of preparing fabrics for market, as fulling, steaming, shearing, singeing, calendering, glazing, inspecting, etc.
Finishing—a process in hat manufacture where, after blocking and subsequent hydraulic pressure, stiff hats are placed upon wooden blocks and by manipulation with pouncing paper, etc., are smoothed and polished, and the brims trimmed to model dimensions.
Fir wool—see Pine w.
Fire—the interposition of Providence to (some) shopkeepers.
Fire Department uniforms—(Chicago) Dress coat: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, made to button close to the neck with combination lapel-rolling collar; of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with 2 inside breast pockets, no outside pockets but with a double-scalloped flap, as for a pocket, on each breast outside; 2 buttons on each sleeve and with buttons on breast as follows: marshal, 9 each breast, grouped in 3’s; assistant marshal and chiefs of battalion, 8 each breast, in pairs; company officers, 4 each breast, equidistant; firemen, same as for company officers, but no sleeve buttons. Fatigue coat: a single-breasted square cut sack c. of dark blue flannel, of same general specifications; vest and trousers to match. Overcoat: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with combination lapel-rolling collar, buttoning close to the neck, with same number and arrangement of buttons as described under Dress c. except that there are 5 on each breast, equidistant, for company officers and men; the coat in length 2 inches below knee; all seams lapt, raw; the skirt to be cut on the fold of the goods without opening, with 2 buttons at waist seam and 2 on each side of skirt plaits; 1 outside breast and 2 outside skirt pockets with scallopt flaps; 1 inside breast pocket. Insignia per regulations.
Fire department uniforms—(New York) Dress coat: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut to button to the neck, with rolling collar, and to reach midway between hip and knee, without outside pockets but with 2 inside breast pockets, lining of red cloth or flannel, 3 buttons on each sleeve and on the breast as follows: for chief of department, 2 rows of 8, grouped in pairs; for deputy chief of department and chiefs of battalion, same except spaced equidistant; for company officers, 2 rows of 7, equidistant; for engineers of steamers and men, a single-breasted squarecut c. with 6 buttons; in summer an unlined c. of dark blue flannel; vest and trousers to match. Overcoat: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knee, made to button close to the neck, with 2 rows of 8 buttons grouped in pairs for chief of department and for all other officers and members 2 rows of 5 equidistant; the body and skirt to be lined with red cloth or flannel; the skirt, which is open behind, trimmed with 2 rows of 3 buttons; 3 buttons on each sleeve; no outside pockets, but 1 inside breast pocket. For officers attacht to fireboats, a double-breasted sack overcoat, buttoning to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, spaced equally; ulster collar; 2 circular outside breast pockets; length ⅔ of knee; lined with red cloth. Insignia on coats as per regulation.
Fire marshal’s dress coat—see Fire department uniforms.
Fire sale—faky.
Fire test—see Flame t.
Firemen’s cap—(New York) a dark blue cloth cap of navy pattern, with visor of black patent leather, with insignia of rank as prescribed by regulations.
Firemen’s dress coat—see Fire department uniforms.
Firemen’s fatigue coat—see Fire department uniforms.
Firemen’s hats—(New York) for summer wear, a hat of Mackinaw straw, white for all officers (except those attacht to fireboats), and brown for all other members; sides 3¾ inches high, slightly tapering to crown; black silk band.
Firemen’s helmets—(New York) for chief of department, deputy chiefs and chiefs of battalion, a white helmet with 8 cones having a gilt front depending from a gilt eaglehead and attacht thereto in front with insignia of rank painted thereon in black and red, with title in black letters on scroll of gold; for officers of engine and hook and ladder companies, same, but of black with a white front, with insignia variously differentiated; for engineers of steamers, an all-black helmet with title and number black on white; for firemen of hook and ladder companies, black with red front, with number, etc., in white.
Firemen’s overcoat—see Fire department uniforms.
First pressing—in clothing manufacture the operation of pressing-off a garment, as a coat, preparatory to marking and sewing on buttons. Compare Underpressing and After p.
Fish—a dart or V. See Dart.
Fish bag—see Live net.
Fish-eye face—trade name for pearl and other buttons having a slightly rounded f. across which an oval slit is cut holding two holes to sew thru.
Fishing boot—same as hunting b. (qv) without the hobnails.
Fishing cape—a plain c. of any waterproof material, worn as a protection against rain.
Fishing glove—a g. of soft leather, loose fitting, with fingers cut half length.
Fishing hat—almost any old thing with a wide brim; name sometimes applied to a light muslin, wide brimmed h. on a wire frame.
Fishing helmet—a sort of storm hat.
Fitters—in clothing manufacture the workmen who inspect and assemble the parts of garments as received from the cutting department.
Fittings—tailoring term for the necessary pieces of cloth for facings, pocket welts, etc. Compare Findings.
Flambustious—showy; gaudy; or good; as “we will have a flambustious time”. If this word is derived from “flam”, a lie or cheat, a certain transition of meaning has occurred.
Flame tests—pure dye silk will shrivel up immediately where flame is applied, leaving a dull leaden color without fire; weighted silk retains flame after match is removed and may either shrivel or burn up; cotton or other substitute or adulterant, except wool, will burn until consumed; wool chars much like silk.
Flanging—a process in hat manufacture subsequent to curling, binding and trimming, whereby further and final shape is given to the brims.
Flannel—(1) general name for a large variety of soft finisht all-wool fabrics, usually loosely woven of coarse lightly twisted yarns and but very slightly fulled, tho commonly well teasled. For men’s wear generally a very superior grade, of twill weave, fulled to a degree resembling cheviot. See also Mackinaw f., Navy twills, Shirting f., Shaker f., Baby f., etc.; (2) weaving term for undyed cloths and suiting fabrics as they come from the loom and before they reach the dye vat.
Flannelette—a stout half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric, loom figured and close napt. See Outing cloth.
Flannels—colloquial for (1) summer outing suits (usually coat and trousers) of flannel, properly in white or light colorings; and (2) for winter woolen undergarments.
Flap—a limber hanging part; a covering for pockets in garments.
Flap—the shield or falling front part of front fall trousers.
Flap-pad—see Pad and Looney.
Flapped pocket—a p. with a flap over its opening. Compare Welted p.
Flare—an outward spreading or widening, as of the skirts of a coat.
Flashy—showy, meretricious.
Flask funnel—a device to assist you in not wasting it.
Flat back—tailor’s term for a man over-erect with a narrow back and full chest.
Flat bound—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by the use of a wide silk or other braid laid widely on the face or outer surface and but narrowly underneath and over the edge, then stitcht onto the two surface edges and prest, obtaining a flattened effect.
Flat braid—formed by a number of threads laid zigzag and crossing each other alternately over and under. See Silk b.
Flat button—not hollowed, or rounded, or shaped in any way—a general term.
Flat buttonhole—see Satin b.
Flat foot—needing an arch support (qv).
Flat goods—trade term for hosiery, underwear, etc., not soft ribbed or fashioned.
Flat iron—trade term for a style in shoes popular several years ago, quite pointed at the toe but widening sharply to the ball of the foot, resembling a flat iron in shape, hence name.
Flat last—trade term for shoes with the soles resting flat on the ground. Compare Rocking l.
Flat seam—see Pique s.
Flat set—hatter’s term for very flat hat brims.
Flax comb—a hatchel.
Fleece—see Wool.
Flesher—one who fleshes hides.
Fleshers—trade name for split glove skins as received from abroad.
Fleshing—a process in the curing and dressing of furs and leather: removing the flesh and fat from the skin.
Fleshings—properly, flesh-colored tights; loosely, tights in general, particularly if liberally exhibiting the anatomy.
Fleuret silk—same as Spun s.
Float—in weaving, the passage of a filling thread under or over several warp threads without being engaged by them.
Flock—short refuse or finely powdered wool waste or dust used in finishing cheap woolens. (Flocks.) See Extract wool.
Floorwalker—a smooth gentleman, hired to add dignity to a store, who directs you to some place you did not ask for.
Florentine—(1) a heavy silk fabric, woven figured or plain twilled, chiefly used for waistcoats; (2) a worsted waistcoating material; (3) a twilled cotton fabric for summer trousers.
Floret—trade term for the longest and finest fibers of spun silk (qv) after carding. (Fleuret.)
Florist—a shopkeeper with whom young dandies become intimate before marriage and forget afterward.
Flossy—giddy, foppish, fussy, affected (perhaps both in brain and apparel).
Flower buttonhole—see Lapel b.
Flunky—(1) liveried man-servant; (2) a toady.
Flush—to float or pass weft threads over several warp threads, as in twill and satin weaving.
Flushing coat—something worn about 1825, but not identified.
Fly—a placket for closing or fastening together sides or parts of a garment, as of an overcoat or trousers, so as to conceal the buttons or other means of fastening. Specially designated as blind f., box f., French f., open f. (qv).
Fly coat—a long jacket reaching about half way to the knees, worn previous to the Revolution.
Fly front—tailoring term for coats made with an arrangement for concealing the buttons or other fastenings; a sort of placket of which the underpart engages the buttons, hooks, etc. Trousers also are f.-f. (except front falls).
Fob—(1) a pendant attachment to a watch, usually of silk, with gold buckle, slide, ring, seal or other ornament; an article of jewelry most variously made; (2) a watch pocket in a trousers waistband.
Fob pocket—see Watch p.
Fob ribbon—heavy, close-woven, plain edged gros-grain or fine ribbed faille silk r. made especially for watch fobs.
Fold-back cuffs—shirt c., usually attacht to the garment, made double or folded backward. Also called French c.
Folded collar—a double or folded-over shirt c., usually high banded.
Folded cuffs—see Fold-back c.
Folding cane—a walking stick with a concealed joint at about half its length, to enable it to fold and be carried in a suit case or grip.
Fool’s cap—a conical paper c. worn penitentially by the school cut-up.
Foot bath—a vessel for bathing the feet.
Foot boy—a boy in livery; a page.
Foot cloth—(1) a cloth or carpet to walk upon on occasions of ceremony; (2) a deep housing or state caparison for a horse; a sumptor c.
Footease—proprietary name for a powder to “shake into your shoes” as a fetich against walking aches.
Foot-form—shoes constructed on anatomical or foot-fitting lasts; orthopedic; waukenphast (qv).
Foot glove—a heavy, coarse woolen or felt oversock, worn over shoes while driving, etc., for warmth.
Foot hawker—a peripatetic peddler; a tray or pushcart merchant.
Foot-mantle—see Safeguard.
Foot muff—a muffler; a fur bag for the feet.
Foot powder—a chemical preparation shaken into the shoes for relieving perspiration, aches, odors, etc.
Foot scraper—see Shoe s.
Foot-sheet—a square or oblong cloth laid upon floor or chairs for invalids to sit upon during toilet, changing of bedding, etc.
Foot-stone—a small memorial tablet at the foot of a grave.
Foot-straps—the buckled straps used to hold down the pantaloons and trousers of the early part of the last century.
Foot-warmer—any contrivance for warming the feet in carriages, in bed, etc., as (1) a muff, (2) a metal container having slow-burning cartridges of carbon; (3) a hot brick; (4) a hot-water bottle; (5) an electric warming pad; (6) a night policeman’s club.
Football jacket—a sort of stout canvas cuirass, armless, laced up the front.
Football leg guards—see Shin g.
Football mouthpiece—protective chewing gum for scrimmages.
Football pads—quilted leather p. for elbows and shoulders, worn inside the jersey or sweater.
Football pants—knickerbockers of canvas, khaki, etc., padded, quilted, and sometimes with reed guards sewed into the upper leg.
Football shoe—a s. laced well down towards toes with ankle-padding, and spikes or cleats on soles.
Footgear—shoes and so forth.
Foothold—a light skeleton overshoe of rubber protecting the fore-sole, but without heel, kept on by a heel strap.
Footman’s livery—house dress: footman’s coat, valencia or plush waistcoat, trousers, shoes, white tie; or court l. (qv); on the carriage, he should wear the second man’s l.
Fop—cross between dandy and dude.
Forage cap—a small, low cloth c. with a peak, once worn by officers and men (U. S. A.) when not in dress uniform.
Forchet—old spelling of fourchette (qv).
Forelock—a lock of hair growing over the forehead.
Forepart—that part of a coat or vest covering the chest.
Forest wool—a textil fiber made from pine needles treated with a soda solution, and otherwise manipulated, spun and woven into a resemblance of coarse wool, and manufactured on a considerable scale into blankets and clothing of the cheaper grades, said to be warm and durable; called wald wolle in Germany, where best known. Compare Xylolin.
Forester’s uniform—(Forestry service) material a brownish green woolen or cotton khaki as adopted by the army; coat a combination of the army officer’s coat and a business sack coat, fitting snugly about chest but rather loosely about hips and waist, with blouse (Prussian) collar, 2 outside buttoned bellowsed pockets and bronze buttons of the service; vest optional (?); trousers either ordinary or cavalry style riding breeches; shirt of gray flannel with 2 buttoned breast pockets; hat of light-colored felt, similar to army service hat; riding boots or leggings should be worn with riding breeches and high-topt, heavy shoes, preferably of surveyor’s or hunting pattern, with trousers; gloves of buckskin, short or army gauntlet pattern; overcoat same as uniform material but heavier, double-breasted, ankle length, with deep riding vent, 2 inside and 2 outside vertical pockets, broad collar.
Forestry cloth—a twill woven, clear-finisht worsted fabric of standard olive-drab color, made in several weights for suitings, coatings, shirtings, etc. Adopted by the government for the forestry service.
Fork—the os coccygis; the crotch.
Form—tone, smartness, propriety, stylishness, carriage, appearance, demeanor.
Form—a model or dummy for trying on or displaying any article of apparel or other merchandise.
Form fitting—following the lines of the body closely.
Forming—a process in hat manufacture wherein the fur is attracted to a perforated fan by air-suction, then covered with cloths and dipped in warm water and afterward “hardened” by careful manipulation and rolling to make the fibers knit together.
Forward stock—the merchandise actually before the customer. Compare Reserve s.
Foulard—properly a light-weight silk fabric, woven plain or twilled, printed with an all-over pattern, the designs of which are white or color of the fabric, the background solid color.
Fountain pen—doubtless invented to spoil waistcoats.
Four-cornered cap—see Mortarboard.
Four hole—trade term for buttons pierced with 4 holes or eyes.
Four hundred—McAllisterian thaumaturgy.
Fourchette—the inner sides of glove fingers. If you will examine a glove it will be seen that it is cut all of one piece with the exception of the thumb and the fourchettes, for which the remaining fragments of the skin are used.
Four-in-hand—a long necktie narrow where it goes around the collar but with widened ends, tied in a sailor knot.
Fownes—trade diminutive for the general line of gloves made by Fownes Bros. & Co., London.
Fox—a piece of leather applied over the upper leather of a shoe, next to the sole, either for ornament or repair. See Foxed.
Fox—a canine mammal whose pelt is highly esteemed for winter garments.
Fox tail—see Wig.
Foxt—a word usually used as f. quarter, f. top or upper. Foxt designates a peculiar pattern or style for the upper of a shoe.
(Foxed.) See Fox.
Frame—the metal ribs of an umbrella.
Frame made—trade term for fabric gloves knitted without seams.
Frameless spectacles—s. (qv) without frame or rim around the lenses.
Frangipanni—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of the (West Indian) red jasmin.
Franklin avenue—a street in St. Louis having a number of small cheap clothing shops (compare South street and Halstead street); a local synonym for cheap clothing.
Fray—to ravel, to loosen; employed in describing cloth too soft or too loosely woven to hold stitches in a raw edge or seam.
Freak—anything monstrous, extreme in style, vulgarly ostentatious; a senseless innovation; outre.
French back—trade term for a soft-twilled woolen backing of different weave from the face, formed on the underside of clear-finisht worsteds, as trouserings, and other fabrics, with the object of increasing weight or stability without adding appreciably to the cost, or as a means of reducing cost.
French back—an overcoat (a modification of a Chesterfield) with a graceful shapely back and a long center vent usually reaching to the waist line, the side seams to the waist line being commonly French prest inverted plaits; made to button in front with a fly or to button thru as in a body coat.
French calf—indicating calfskin shoe leather produced by (1) a particular and standard method of tanning or finishing; (2) a c. skin tanned and finished in France.
French cambric—a very fine quality of cambric used for handkerchiefs, etc.
French coney—imitation sealskin.
French cuffs—see Fold-back c.
French edge—in leather goods manufacture, as luggage, an edge seamed outwardly, sewn thru and thru; “cobbler sewed”.
French facing—the inside cloth facing of a coat, so cut as to extend around the armholes.
French fall—see Falling band.
French falls—the top boots of the XVI. century, having wide, flaring tops that were turned down and then turned up again; also known as bucket tops.
French felling—in tailoring a method of holding two pieces of material together, as the forepart and the facing of an edge. The parts to be joined are laid flat, edges even, right sides within. The needle is past straight thru, at right angles with the edge and close to it from underneath, upwards. The goods are then turned right side out and the edge finisht with stitching as desired, the felling being intended to hold the edge and prevent raveling.
French fly—see Blind f.
French foot—trade term for hosiery made with a single seam in the center of the sole. See English f.
French neck—(1) in tailoring, meaning a finish given to the back of the neck of a waistcoat by means of a double strip of lining material instead of the cloth from which the garment is made, for purposes of thinness, permitting the coat collar to set closer to the shirt c.; (2) in underwear, a crocheted instead of a welted or seamed n.
French percale—see Percale.
French prest—tailoring term applied usually to seams that are sharply prest; as, the skirts of dress and frock coats; inverted plaits in sack and overcoats. (F. pressed.)
French seal—“electric” seal; imitation.
French seams—first sewed outside out, then turned in and sewed again, so that the edges of the seam are concealed.
French serge—a fine twilled, closely woven s.
French sizes—name given to various peculiar methods of designating the sizes of shoes by stamping numerals or letters on the inside lining of the shoe. See Appendix.
French system—weaving term for worsted yarns spun on mules, usually from shorter staple than required for the Bradford s. (qv), well adapted for soft-faced goods and velour finishes.
French toe—in shoemaking, a wide, plain t. without cap.
French waist—trade term for trousers made without a sewed-on waistband.
French yarns—worsted y. combed dry, without oil, resulting in a fairly fuzzy or wooly strand, but which, however, is less liable to shrink than y. spun by the English system. Compare English y.
Fribble—a trifling or frivolous affectation or fad.
Fried egg—a low flat hat.
Friend—a borrower.
Frieze—a thick, stout, double-woven, napt woolen overcoating, woven of long fleece doubled after spinning, thoroly fulled after weaving and slightly felted until waterproof and windproof, and finisht with a long, unsheared shaggy nap. Said to have originated in Friesland, whence name, but better known thru the Irish or near-Irish varieties.
Fright wig—general term for any monstrosity in the (theatrical) wig line.
Frill—an ornamental strip of material gathered at the attacht edge, the other edge being free; a flounce; a ruffle.
Frills—affected airs or manners in dress or ornament; fopperies.
Frippery—tawdry finery.
Frize holland—a superior grade of fine bleacht Holland linen, once used largely for shirts, etc.
Frock-Chesterfield—a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, with a waist seam, a three-seam back as in a frock coat, and with skirts without plaits (1907).
Frock coat—properly a c. either single or double-breasted, constructed of parts known as forepart (which in double-breasted coats is divided at the front line of the chest), sidebody, divided backpart and skirt, of each 2, the backparts continuing down to the bottom, joining with the skirt parts and forming the plaits behind, in which pockets are sometimes placed; when the skirts in front are cutaway from a point near the waistline the word cutaway is prefixt to distinguish from the more formal garment, “Prince Albert”, as the double-breasted f. is commonly known; the “cutaway frock” (of which the [English] walking c. is a variation) is almost invariably single-breasted and consequently not made with divided foreparts.
Frock coat—(navy) for all officers, a c. similar in cut to a civilian’s f. c., but of dark blue cloth, double-breasted, with 2 rows of large navy buttons, 9 each, buttoning on the six lower buttons; the sleeves, collar and shoulders bearing the insignia prescribed for the rank of the wearer.
Frocking—coarse cotton jean; drilling; dungaree; fustian.
Frog—an ornamental cloak or coat button or fastening of silk or wool crocheted or braided in various fancy forms.
Frog—(1) an old term for a seaman’s coat or frock; (2) a leather pocket or case for a pistol, bayonet or cutlass.
Front—a one-word epigram for appearance—clothes, manners, etc.
Front facing—in coat and vest making the strip of goods forming the inside forepart or edge of the garment.
Front-falls—trousers not made with a single fly-opening, but with a wide front flap, buttoning on both sides.
Frosts—spiked soles for walking on ice (early 18th century).
Fudge wheeling—an ornamental process in the finishing of the edges of shoe soles.
Full-baste—tailoring term for a coat or other garment ready for try-on with every seam basted, instead of some of the seams being sewed up.
Full bellows tongue—a tongue in a laced shoe, attacht to both sides of the tops of the shoe at the opening and filling completely this opening.
Full bottom—see Wig.
Full box—lingo for a very loose effect in overcoats.
Full chested—bulgy.
Full dress—see Evening d.
Full dress—(army) the prescribed uniform worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving or calling upon the President or upon the ruler or member of royal family of other countries; and at ceremonies and entertainments when it is desirable to do special honor to the occasion, or when f. d. is prescribed for enlisted men. For general officers, dismounted; f. d. coat and trousers, chapeau, epaulets, sash, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, shoulder knots, sash, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black boots, spurs; officers of staff corps and departments: officers of cavalry, artillery, infantry and engineers, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, f. d. cap, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes, and aigulets and shoulder belts for those authorized to wear them; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, black boots, spurs; aigulets and shoulder belts as authorized; chaplains, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, white gloves, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs, chaplain’s hat; for enlisted men, worn at reviews, parades, and other ceremonies under arms, unless otherwise prescribed; dismounted: dress coat, with breast cord, dress trousers, dress cap, black shoes, white gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat with breast cord, dress breeches, dress cap, leggings, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs, saber belt, and cartridge box (when prescribed).
Full dress—(navy) worn on ceremonial occasions such as making or exchanging visits with officers of flag rank, foreign officials, etc., and on ceremonies and entertainments where “dress” is not sufficient. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers: f. d. trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for the officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”, and for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets.
Full dress—(marine corps) to be worn by officers on occasions of ordinary ceremony, such as usual reviews, inspections, street parades, etc.; by enlisted men on occasions of ceremony when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform, and when ordered by commanding officer; and by members of the band on occasions of parades or reviews when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform and when ordered by commanding officer. Consists of—for major general commanding: f. d. coat, f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword with f. d. belt and knot, shoulder knots, white gloves, black shoes, white standing collar (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for officers of the line: a similar uniform except no chapeau or sash; for officers of staff: a similar uniform except aigulets instead of shoulder knots, no chapeau or sash; for enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, f. d. cap or white helmet, white gloves, black leather shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; for leader, drum-major and all members of band: f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, special f. d. cap or white helmet (shako for drum-major only), epaulets (leader only), shoulder knots, aigulets (except for drum-major) sword with f. d. knot and belt, (leader only) white gloves, black leather shoes, accouterments as ordered.
Full dress—(revenue cutter service) worn by officers on occasions of special ceremony and quarterly muster on board vessels of first and second rate; first visits to commanders of war vessels and military posts, parades of ceremony, etc.; consists of frock coat, plain dark blue trousers, epaulets, chapeau, sword, f. d. belt and sword knot.
Full dress belt—for naval officers of the rank of rear admiral and higher, of dark blue cloth with gold stripes of prescribed widths and with blue cloth sling straps likewise decorated; for commissioned officers, with certain exceptions, of dark blue silk webbing, with woven gold stripes.
Full dress breeches—(marine corps) for all mounted officers, of same material, and with same stripes, as f. d. trousers cut as prescribed for field b.; worn with black boots and spurs.
Full dress cap—(army) for all officers, a c. of dark blue cloth, with drooping visor of black patent leather and a flat gold cap-strap, with bands of gold lace and velvet and insignia according to rank.
Full dress cap—(marine corps) of fine dull finisht dark blue cloth, the sides 3¾ in. deep in front and 3½ in. in back, the top flat and slightly oval and flaring out slightly, the visor dropt at an angle of about 60° from the horizontal. For major general commandant, having a band of dark blue velvet 1¾ in. wide, embroidered all around with gold oak leaves, the visor covered with dark blue cloth, the top trimmed with loops of narrow gold soutache braid, and otherwise finisht and decorated as prescribed. For all other officers, the same, except the band is of gold lace; the visor for officers of line and staff to be ornamented with gold thread, and for company officers and captains in the staff of plain black patent leather; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a similar c., but with a band of scarlet cloth lapseamed to blue sides, red worsted soutache ornament on top of c.; other details per specifications; for leader of the band, second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for special full dress. For drum-major, a shako of black lambskin, 8½ in. high in front, 10 in. high in back, plain red cloth top and red cloth bag trimmed with gold soutache braid, gilt chin strap form under chin, and 12 in. red, white and blue vulture feather plume on right side.
Full dress coat—(army) a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth with a standing collar, 2 gilt buttons at back of waist and 1 near the end of each plait behind; the skirt to extend from one-half to three-quarters of the distance from hip to knee. For general officers: collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; for other officers, collar of same material as c., no cuffs. Buttons in front: for general, 2 rows of 12, placed by 4’s; lieutenant general, 2 rows of 10, placed 3 upper and lower, 4 in middle; major general, 2 rows of 9, placed by 3’s; colonel, lieutenant colonel and major, 2 rows of 9, spaced equally; captain, first and second lieutenants, 2 rows of 7 equally spaced. For chief of engineers, same as for general officers, except that a piping of scarlet velvet appears on upper and outer edges of lapels, continuing down the edges of the coat to bottom of skirt and from top of back flaps to bottom of skirt, with a skirt facing of scarlet velvet; for other officers of engineer corps, similar piping and facing, but of scarlet cloth. For all officers, sleeve, collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed by regulation.
Full dress coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all line officers, a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with standing collar, 2 rows of large marine corps buttons wider apart at top than at bottom (9 placed in 3’s for major general commandant, 8 equidistant for other officers), 2 pockets in skirt folds, collars and cuffs with trimmings prescribed for rank of wearer. For officers of staff, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with closed skirt behind, trimmed as for line officers, but without pockets, standing collar, and with trimmings as prescribed; aigulets and shoulder knots with f. d. and special f. d. For non-commissioned officers and privates, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 in. below crotch, 8 large marine corps buttons in front and 2 in back at end of waist seam, standing collar, the coat piped down front, around the bottom and up the plaits of the skirt to waist seam with ⅛ in. scarlet cloth; scarlet shoulder straps and sleeve bands and other details as prescribed. For drummers and trumpeters, a c. of the same style, except that it is of scarlet cloth with white piping, black collar, black shoulder straps and black sleeve bands, these straps piped with white; for leader of the band, a tunic of dark blue cloth, same patterns as prescribed for staff officers, except: the breast trimmed across with ⅛ in. gold tubular braid and 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each row; cuffs trimmed as prescribed for first lieutenant without the scarlet backing. For second leader of band, a f. d. c. of scarlet cloth, made as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, except: the collar of black broadcloth piped with white; front and bottom edges and back of skirt plaits to waist piped with white; front trimmed across with black mohair braid (in the same manner as undress c. of officers) and with 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each. For musicians of band, same as for second leader, except: with pointed cuffs of black broadcloth. For drum-major, same as prescribed, for second leader, except: collar of scarlet cloth trimmed with gold lace and piped with white cloth, breast trimmed with ½ in. gold tubular braid, pointed cuffs, outlined with ½ in. gold tubular braid. Other details per regulations.
Full dress coat—(navy) for bandsmen a single-breasted tunic of scarlet cloth, buttoned to the neck with 8 gilt buttons, standing collar, the front edges, bottom and skirt plaits (to waist seam) piped with white cloth, no outside pockets, shoulder decorations as prescribed.
Full dress frock coat—(revenue cutter service) for all commissioned officers: of dark navy-blue cloth, double-breasted, buttoning to the neck, rolling collar, 2 rows of service buttons on breast, 9 each side, spaced equidistant, full skirts extending nearly to the knee, trimmings, attachments, etc., as prescribed.
Full dress saber belt—see Saber b.
Full dress shirt—see Evening d. s.
Full dress sword belt—(marine corps) for all officers and leader of the band, of 1½ in. marine corps gold lace with a ³⁄₁₆ in. stripe of scarlet silk thru the center, white leather lining, showing edges, ⅛ in. Slings of same material and design.
Full dress trousers—see Evening d. t.
Full dress trousers—(army) for general officers, of dark blue cloth with 2 stripes of gold wire lace mounted on velvet, of the color of coat collar, along outer seams; for chief of engineers, the interval between the stripes of scarlet velvet; for officers of staff corps and departments (except engineers) 1 stripe of gold lace; for officers of engineer corps, stripes of scarlet cloth with white piping; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of sky-blue cloth with 1½ in. stripes, welted at the edges, of the colors of the facings of their respective corps or arms, except that for infantry the stripes are white; for chaplains, of plain black or dark blue cloth, without stripe, welt or cord.
Full dress trousers—(navy) of dark blue cloth with a stripe of gold lace covering the outseam of each leg.
Full dress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all staff officers, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. black mohair braid. For line officers, same as Special f. d. For non-commissioned officers, of sky-blue kersey, outseams finisht with 1 in. stripe of welted edge scarlet cloth. For privates, the same without the scarlet stripes. For drummers and trumpeters, the same except that the outseams have a ³⁄₁₆ in. scarlet welt; for leader of the band, same as prescribed for line officer’s special f. d. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for privates, except: with 2½ in. stripes of scarlet cloth down outer seams, stitcht on the outer edges, showing ¼ in. of light blue between. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers.
Full dress uniforms—(army, navy, marine corps, etc.) see Full d., et var.
Full dress waistcoat—see Evening d. w.
Full fashioned—general term for hosiery, etc., produced on automatic knitting machines, made in flat strips or patterns and then joined, either by machine or by hand. See F. regular.
Full feather—in full dress; attired in one’s best clothes.
Full fig—(nautical) full dress.
Full frock—the double-breasted frock coat, or “Prince Albert”.
Full-headed—tailoring term, meaning having fine plaits or puckers of material in the upper part, as a sleeve; not skimpt; more liberal than usual; specially, a joining of sleeve and shoulder so that top of sleeve head shows up full. See Sleeve head.
Full peg—tailoring term for extra baggy trousers, commonly predicativ of college fledglings. See P. top and Half p.
Full regular—trade term for hosiery and underwear in which the seams are made by hand knitting instead of by machine; the most expensiv grade.
Full Scotch—see Scotch edge.
Full skeleton—tailoring term for coats made without lining. Compare Half s.
Full uniform—the complement of costume, ornaments, arms, etc., prescribed for officers and men in the military and naval service on inspection, parade and ceremonial occasions. See Full dress, Special full dress, etc.
Full vamp—shoemaking term for vamps where the toes are not cut away under the tips. See Whole v., et var.
Fulled—made thicker and more compact by shrinking.
Fuller’s earth—a species of non-plastic clay used as an absorbent of grease and oil and as a cleansing agent; also used in fulling cloth.
Fulling—the process of cleansing and condensing (or shrinking) woolen and worsted goods to render them stronger and firmer. See encyclopedia.