Inexpressibles—prudery for trousers, outer as well as under.
Infantry uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.
Infielder’s glove—a padded g. of buckskin or other stout leather for baseball players.
Informal dress—see Day d.
Ingrain—dyed in the yarn or in a raw state.
Inlaid collar—in tailoring, a c. partly of the material of the garment and partly of velvet, the latter laid under the cloth and forming a sort of border or frame around it. Compare Laid-on c.
Inner leaf—see Leaf.
Inseam—in tailoring, the inner seam of the leg of a pair of trousers; sometimes also called the crotch seam; also the forearm seam of a sleeve.
Inseam—(glove term) a plain turned-in seam, used only with the heavier leathers.
Inside back—the inner lining of a vest, particularly the back part thereof.
Inside breast pocket—a p. made within the lining of a coat, ordinarily on the right side only, should there be an outside b. p., but if none, then on both sides.
Inside pocket—any p. made on the i. of a garment, usually within the lining, as in coats and waistcoats.
Inside shop—in the clothing business, any s. (usually on the manufacturer’s premises) where the manufacturer hires the workmen thru a foreman. See Outside s.
Inside ticket pocket—a small p. within the right-hand p. of a coat.
Insignia—any device or decoration used by orders, societies or governments as signs or marks of office or distinction.
Insignia of rank—(army) devices worn on the collar of the uniform, as follows: general and lieutenant general, such as they may prescribe; major general, two silver stars; brigadier general, 1 silver star; colonel, 1 silver spread eagle; lieutenant colonel, 1 silver leaf; major, 1 gold leaf; captain, 2 silver bars; first lieutenant, 1 silver bar. Also shoulder straps, similarly markt, as well as other regulation distinguishments—better read the department rules and regulations.
Insole—any inner lining or sole of a shoe, whether a fixt part thereof or removable.
Instructor’s glove—a boxing g. for teachers of the manly art, so constructed as to do no hurt.
Insurance—getting some rich corporation to pay you for burning up.
Interlining—any textil or other material placed between the cloth and the lining proper of a garment for purposes of shape, strength, stiffening, etc.
Intimate—cant term for shirt.
Inventory—a detailed account of merchandise, accounts and business transacted; that on which hopes of advanced salaries rise or fall.
Inverness—a long, loose overcoat with cape, but without sleeves, for evening dress wear.
Inverted seam—sewn inside out.
Invisible patch—cobbler’s term for a patch applied by cement to a worn or damaged spot, the edges of the p. having first been shaved thin to leave little or no ridge or seam.
Invisible stitch—in tailoring, any s. not permitted to come to the surface, as a felling s., pricking s., etc.
Invisible suspenders—s. worn underneath the shirt or shirtwaist and attaching to the trousers buttons, usually by means of loop hooks, commonly worn with summer attire when it is desired to appear without a vest or coat or both.
I. O. O. F. coat—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.
I. O. U.—familiar term for chirographical curiosities collected, largely as a fad, perhaps, by tailors.
Iridescent—color-glitter; an effect of weaving.
Irish linen—general term for fine, plain-woven full bleacht linen cloth for shirt bosoms, collars and cuffs, handkerchiefs, etc.; usually 36 inches wide.
Iron—lots of it used to weight cheap silks.
Iron cloth—a fabric manufactured from steel wool, having the appearance of having been woven from horsehair and used for stiffening certain kinds of coat collars, such as standing collars on uniforms, etc.
Iron garters—cant for leg irons.
Iron-yarn—lustrene (qv).
Ironing—a finishing process in felt hat manufacturing.
Ironing—a finishing process used on the uppers of some kinds of shoes, a peculiarly shaped iron being used, in modern practise heated by electricity, sometimes by a lamp or flame. The process is used to smooth out the wrinkles and creases formed in the leather by handling the shoes thru the factory in the earlier manufacturing stages, the shoe being placed on a form during the operation.
Irons—see Cokers.
Istle—the fiber of a Mexican plant used for cheap brushes, imitation haircloth, etc. Also called Tampico, Mexican fiber, etc.
Italian cloth—a plain colored, twill woven fabric, resembling heavy satine or jeans, composed of cotton warp with worsted or mohair filling; also of both cotton warp and weft.
Ivory—tusks of the elephant, hippopotamus, narwhal, walrus, etc. See also I. nut and Vegetable i.
Ivory nut—the seed of a Venezuela palm (phytelephas macrocarpa); when dry is very hard and resembles natural ivory in textur and color; made into buttons, etc. See Vegetable i.
J
Jabot—the shirt-frill or ruffle we wore in the 18th century; a fancy falling band.
Jacerma—a sort of short doublet, part of the national costume of Hungary.
Jack-a-dandy—some sort of a fop.
Jack boots—(1) originally, large top b., reaching above the knees and worn defensivly; (2) riding b. with a large frontpiece at the knees; (3) heavy top b. reaching above the knees, worn by fishermen and others.
Jack-knife—a large, strong clasp k. for the pocket; in the navy worn with a lanyard.
Jack-towel—a roller t.
Jackanapes—another sort of a fop.
Jacket—(1) a short coat, usually not extending to the knees; a sack coat; (2) the sack coat worn by servants.
Jacket suit—same as sack s. and lounge s. (qv).
Jacobite—a shirt collar.
Jaconet—a light, soft white cotton cloth, similar to cambric, but heavier, used for undergarments, night shirts, etc.
Jacquard loom—a l. for weaving fancy figured goods as damasks, etc.
Jaeger—trade diminutiv for the sanitary natural wool underwear, etc., introduced by Dr. S. Jaeger, a German scientist who advocates the wearing of nothing but natural wool garments inside and out, as well as for sleeping, house furnishings, etc., and by extension applied to other makes of natural wool underwear.
Jag—in New England, a parcel, bundle, or load; an old English provincialism which has held its ground colloquially on this side of the Atlantic. Jag is also a slang term for an umbrella, possibly from that article being so constantly carried. Also descriptiv of being so happy with foolish froth that one can’t stand steadily.
Jail clothes—see Prison uniform.
Jam—cant for gold ring.
Jansenist—see Wig.
Jant—jaunty or stylish (?) (1816).
Janus cloth—a two-faced (sic) plain-woven worsted c.
Japan—a sort of varnish for metallic things.
Japanned leather—term for varnisht leathers, of which patent l. and enamel l. are varieties.
Jardiniere—weaving term for flowery effects; many-colored.
Jasper—in weaving, a seeded or pepper-and-salt effect, rather more distinctiv than Oxford (qv).
Java—a straw hat braid.
Jean—a stout, round twilled cloth, either all-cotton or cotton warp with wool filling; of various grades and finishes; used principally for working trousers.
Jean de Bry—a long skirted coat of about 1810, the tails of which were twice the length of the body part.
Jeannet—a coarse variety of jean (qv) differing structurally in that the warp instead of the weft threads form the twill. (Jeannette.)
Jellab—a hooded woolen garment, somewhat like a blouse, worn by Moors and Arabs. Corruption of Jellabia.
Jemmy—a fop.
Jenny—a spinning machine.
Jepson—a one-piece suit of clothes for men, invented by Edgar Jepson, an Englishman, at about the turn of the present century—a sort of combination coat and trousers intended mainly for work and play wear, rather than for social intercourse, the inventor himself wearing, then, the regulation attire. Also called “loose skins”.
Jerkin—a sort of waistcoat, still in use in North of England; formerly a jacket, short coat, or upper-doublet.
Jersey—a sort of sweater.
Jersey cloth—a stockinet c. of silk and wool or wool-and-cotton; very elastic. Compare Stockinet.
Jet—a variety of hard, dense, black mineral coal, capable of a brilliant polish, used in making buttons, ornaments, mourning jewelry, etc. Also called black amber.
Jetted pocket—in tailoring, a slit or slasht p., having a small strip or piece of the material seamed on and turned over inside, forming a cord at the turned edge and acting as a facing within. Also called Corded p.
Jeunesse doree—gay youth.
Jewel case—a container for jewelry.
Jeweler’s rouge—hematite (red oxid of iron) ground to an impalpable powder; used for polishing.
Jeweler’s sawdust—finely grained boxwood s.; used as a cleansing and drying agent on gems and jewelry.
Jewelry—ostentatious bedizenment.
Jiji japa—(1) the fiber of a South American plant of same name, made into hats much like Panama hats, but considerably cheaper; (2) a hat of this fiber. (Pronounced hehe happa.)
Jilted pocket—see Jetted p. (Corruption.)
Job lot—general term applied to odd lots of merchandise set apart for sale at reduced prices.
Jobber—(1) one who purchases merchandise in large lots and resells in smaller; (2) a contractor for a mill’s output.
Jock-strap—vulgarism for the plain suspensory customarily worn by athletes. See Suspensory.
Jockey cap—a small skull c. of silk or satin with a prodigious visor of same material, in the color or colors of the horse’s owner.
Jockey club—a well-known perfume once quite popular with men.
Jockey lift—a metal device used in drawing on livery boots, serving at the same time to hold the breeches securely in place while boot is being pulled on.
Johnny Jones hat—see Telescope h.—it’s a bit more rakish.
Join—tailor’s term for seams generally, and specially for the notcht or markt parts of a seam.
Joining paste—a preparation used by actors to blend the wigband with the forehead in making up.
Join-up—the process of sewing the two halves of a coat or trousers together.
Joseph—the caped surtout of olden days; a riding coat; also called wrap-rascal (qv).
Josette—a heavy twilled cotton cloth similar to khaki, used for riding breeches, sporting wear, etc.
Josie—see Joseph.
Jour—tailoring workshop abbreviation for journeyman (qv).
Journeyman—a workman who has completed his apprenticeship or learned his trade.
Joury—a local familiar name applied to fellow “jours”.
Jouvin—trade diminutiv for gloves made by Jouvin et Cie., Grenoble, France. Xavier Jouvin was the inventor of an automatic glove cutting machine.
Jowhir—the “watering” of a Damascus blade; “damascening”.
Judge’s gown—a plain, open g. of black silk, without collar, and with wide, flowing sleeves.
Judge’s wig—a large, full-bottomed w. of precise curls, with a flap hanging down in front on each side of the face. (English.)
Judgment—a favorit word with cutters in criticism of (tailoring) “systems”—especially those who make great pretensions but who do not as regularly “make good”.
Judicial gown—see Judge’s g.
Jumper—a workman’s loose outer-jacket or blouse.
Jumper—a mechanical pressing machine used in clothing factories, so called because the operator jumps on a lever to secure extra pressure.
Juniors—trade term for boy’s clothing, generally.
Junk—(1) any miscellaneous lot or collection of goods; (2) goods of very inferior quality.
Jupe—a heavy jacket. (Same as below?)
Jupon—a sort of surcoat without sleeves, tight fitting, but shorter than the hauberk (qv) over which it was worn; almost always made of rich stuffs and blazoned with the arms of the wearer. (About 1400 A. D.)
Justice’s gown—see Judge’s g.
K
Kaikai—a thin, plain-woven, cheap Japanese silk fabric, usually in warp stripes.
Kanaka wolf—(1) a w. of the Sandwich Islands, or loosely, of any of the South Sea Islands; (2) the fur thereof.
Kangaroo—a herbivorous macropodoid, marsupial mammal of Australasia, whose hide, when tanned, becomes a soft, supple, durable, shoe leather.
Karat—see Carat.
Kemp—(1) straight, coarse, shiny fibers or “dead hairs”, conspicuous in coarse-bred wool; (2) a mixture of short, coarse, white hairs and wool fibers, occurring chiefly where the fleece is lightest and shortest.
Kennel coat—see Paddock.
Kentucky jeans—a superior quality of jeans (qv).
Kerchief—see Handkerchief and Neckerchief.
Kersey—a heavy, all-wool cloth, compact, firm and pliable, gigged and fulled to a degree completely covering and concealing the warp and weft threads, the face finisht with a fine, short, close nap; of quality depending on the wool used, the cheaper grades often being thickened with flocks. Also a twill woven cloth of cotton warp and wool weft, similarly finisht, used for the cheaper grades of clothing.
Kerseymere—(1) a fine, twilled, woolen cloth of peculiar texture, 1 thread of warp and 2 of weft being always above; (2) a name sometimes given to cassimere.
Kerseynette—cassinette.
Kevenhuller—a cockt hat with the crown wholly hidden, the middle of the front brim being the highest point; this succeeded the cockt hat (qv) of the 1770’s.
Key chain—a metal chain for attaching Mr. Staylate’s bunch of keys to a trouser’s button.
Key ring—a more or less complex safety device from which keys are easily lost.
Khaki—a browny-drab or dust-colored cloth of cotton or cotton and linen, of stout texture, compactly woven with a slight twill, adopted by various governments for field service dress; also used by civilians for riding breeches, hunting clothes, etc.
Khaki cap—(marine corps) for all officers, of same pattern as blue undress c., the base of the c. all around to a depth of ¼ in. of dark blue cloth, a ½ in. black patent leather strap, bronze corps device and buttons.
Kicker—a customer who doesn’t seem to be satisfied.
Kicking for a job—tailor’s term for applicants for work.
Kicks—slang for trousers.
Kicksie—one of many names for children’s romping clothes, especially of the bloomer order; sometimes applied to drawers, pantalets, etc.
Kid—leather made from young goats for gloves, shoes, etc.
Kid—wool classification term. See Wool.
Kids—kid gloves.
Kihei—a sort of mantle, about 6 feet square, of tapa bark (see Malo) once (and perhaps occasionally now) worn by both sexes in Hawaii; by the men as a sort of upper garment, by tying 2 corners on one side together and putting the head thru the opening so made.
Kike—contemptuous term for unscrupulous, tricky Hebrew merchants and manufacturers; a term little used outside of the apparel trades and seldom heard in connection with large concerns.
Kill—in tailoring, a garment that cannot be made satisfactory, after repeated alterations is said to be “a kill from the start”; a misfit; any garment not made according to specifications and which must be replaced by a new one.
Kilmarnock—a Scotch cap.
Kilt—(1) originally that part of a Scotchman’s belted plaid which hung below the waist; modernly, a separate garment like a short plaited petticoat reaching from the waist to the knees, commonly made of clan tartan goods; (2) a children’s garment like the modern k. of any material—a step between dresses and pants.
Kilt hose—long, heavy, woolen h., usually with fancy tops that are rolled or turned back several times to form a sort of cuff at about the hight of the calf.
Kimona—in old Japan the characteristic dress of both sexes; nowadays, in this land, the garment that makes a woman look dowdy to her husband and entrancing to someone else’s husband.
Kip—see Kips.
Kips—the skins of yearlings and animals larger than calves.
Kiss-me-quick—a curl or fashioned lock of hair on one side of the forehead.
Kit bag—a commodious leather traveling b., having a flat, rectangular bottom and sloping sides.
Kit pack—a sort of half boot of the long, long ago.
Kite tail—term applied to a make of athletic underwear, having the skirt (of the shirt) cut away over the hips, leaving flaps or tails in front and behind.
K K—tailor’s hoglatin for sawhorsy legs.
Kleptomaniac—a shoplifter (qv) of social position.
Klondyke cap—a c. usually made of fur, having a round crown, a large visor and ear tabs connected behind and tied over the top when not worn down.
Knapsack—a pouch or case of leather or stout cloth, used by soldiers, travelers, prospectors, etc., for carrying light personal luggage, usually worn strapt to the back.
Knee band—the lower hem or finishing-piece on knickerbockers or breeches; made to close with buttons, straps or lacings.
Knee breeches—same as Breeches. Compare Knickerbockers.
Knee breeches—the first important event in a boy’s life.
Knee-buckle—old name for short trousers or breeches for dress wear.
Knee buckles—objects of splendor when breeches were in form; oftenest of silver.
Knee cap—an external covering for the knees, worn as a protection by carpenters, carpet layers, et al.
Knee drawers—reaching only to the knee, specially devised for summer comfort.
Knee protectors—shields of leather or other material, worn, when not out of sight, by youngsters when playing marbles and other destructiv innocent games.
Knee silk—thin, tough s. sewed inside knees of trousers to relieve the strain and prevent bagging.
Knee staking—a process in leather manufacture, where the dyed and dried skins are still further stretcht, loosened and made pliable by pressure of a workman’s bare knee on the leather brought quickly down the stake.
Knee warmers—stockinet or other knitted elastic, wool, silk or cotton coverings for persons afflicted with cold, weak or rheumatic knee joints.
Kneipp linen—an elastic, mesh-knitted, linen fabric used for undergarments.
Knickerbocker—weaving term for ornamental effects produced by using yarns of two single threads twisted and containing added loose wool at intervals, which, when woven, gives a shaggy or lumpy appearance. See Bourette and Boucle.
Knickerbocker drawers—knee length.
Knickerbockers—knee breeches with loose, baggy knees, usually fastened with strap and band, instead of close-fitting cuffs. Compare Breeches.
Knife lanyard—a sling of knitted, bleacht white cotton, worn by enlisted men in the navy, long enough when around the neck to allow a knife to be used with arm extended.
Knights of Pythias coat—same as Masonic Sir Knights c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.
Knights Templar coat—see Sir Knights c.
Knit—See Knitting.
Knitted cloth—a fine, closely knitted fabric of silk or mercerized cotton yarn, made in Saxony and but little known in this country; principal uses gloves and underwear for the European market.
Knitted vest—a sort of cardigan jacket or sweater of any material and degree of fineness, fashioned much like an ordinary waistcoat.
Knitting—the process of forming a fabric out of a single thread by means of needles on which the thread or yarn is placed in a succession of loops, so arranged in rows that each loop in one row passes thru the adjacent loop in the preceding row.
Knitting machine—any machine for knitting fabrics or garments, usually employing a series of barbed or hooked needles.
Knitting wool—fleece too long and coarse for fine weaving purposes. See Wool.
Knock-kneed—knees that turn inwardly or rub against each other in walking. See K.-k.
Knockabout—any rough-and-ready clothes or garment; more specifically, a loose overcoat or “slip-on”.
Knocker—the man who finds fault with this book because he happens to know more about a certain subject than is given in the definition. This is a book of “handy reference”—not a text book.
Knopt yarn—weft yarn distinguisht by lumps or knots, usually of different color, at uniform or varying distances thruout its length. (Knopped.)
Knot—a cravat with flowing ends, tied the same as a four-in-hand.
Knuckle duster—a metal weapon used to protect the knuckles and to add force to a blow. See Brass k.; also called (slang) “knucks” (qv).
Knuckle mitt—a small cushion of padded leather, with a strap, worn for punching bag practise and exhibitions.
Knucks—thug’s finger jewelry, so constructed as to be of much efficacy in a fracas.
Krimmer—Persian lamb; the curly gray fur of commerce.
Kris—a large dagger, used by the Malays—Englisht “crease”.
Kt—abbreviation for karat or carat (qv).
L
Label—a badge, stamp or any distinguishing mark, affixt to articles of merchandise.
Lace—once used for men’s neckwear. See encyclopedia if you wish to know more.
Lace stay—a piece of tape or similar material placed between the thicknesses of the leather in the uppers of shoes to strengthen the uppers where the lacing eyelets or hooks are inserted.
Lace-up boots—Briticism for laced shoes.
Lace work—trade term for open work designs in hosiery.
Lacrosse gloves—same as Hockey g.
Ladies-cloth—a fine, wide flannel, slightly napt, similar to broadcloth.
Lagniappe—something thrown in over and above; good measure. Current in New Orleans—but fast disappearing from use. See Brotus.
Laguna—trade name for a variety of wood from the Philippine islands, used for walking sticks.
Laid-on flap—in tailoring a f. not sewed into the pocket opening but laid on above it, usually wider than the opening, as the side pockets of frock coats. See In-and-out f.
Laid-on velvet collar—in tailoring a c. partly of velvet and partly of the material of the garment, the former laid upon the cloth but not covering it, usually to within half an inch or so of the edge, the exposed cloth forming a sort of border or frame. Compare Inlaid c.
Laid wool—w. clipped from sheep that have been greased or tarred as a protection from the weather.
L’Aiglon coat—a sort of cutaway frock c. made familiar by Sarah Bernhardt when she appeared in Rostand’s play of that name as Duc de Reichstadt.
Lamb’s wool—the first clip from young sheep. Compare Wether w.
Lamps—spectacles or eye-glasses.
Lance—textil term for woven effects like minute darts, points, specks, etc.
Lap-and-foot robe—an adjustable rubber or cloth lap r. for automobile wear, serving as over-trousers, robe and foot-muff.
Lap-board—an oblong board, round at the ends, laid on the lap of the workman, upon which the seams and other parts of a garment are presst in the process of making.
Lap front—a straight standing shirt collar without front opening, but lapping one end over the other when buttoned.
Lap robe—a rug for driving or traveling.
Lap seam—a s. made by overlapping or laying on, instead of turning in; one edge laid or lapt over the other and sewn twice. See Double-stitcht s.
Lap seam—(glove term) see Pique s.
Lapel—(1) the length of a dress coat in front, or from the gorge seam down to the waist seam; (2) the narrow strip—square at the lower end and angular at the upper end—which is sewed to the front of double-breasted frock coats; (3) the roll or “lay-over” of the front of a sack coat or any coat; the most observable part of a coat collar.
Lapel button—coat jewelry, usually bearing lodge emblem.
Lapel fob—a watch f. or short chain of metal, leather, etc., worn attacht to the l. buttonhole, the watch being carried in the outside breast pocket of coat; also called Watch Albert.
Lapel forepart—the sewed-on lapel of a double-breasted frock coat. See L. seam and Frock coat.
Lapel seam—the s. caused by sewing the back edge of the lapel strip to the front edge of the forepart.
Lapidary—one who cuts, grinds, polishes and mounts precious stones and other gems.
Lappet—a small lap or flap.
Lappet weaving—a method of producing small figures or designs on cloth, having the appearance of being darned or embroidered; special warp threads being introduced and made to cross small sections of the regular warp, manipulated by a lappet or needle attachment.
Lares and Penates—one’s household gods; loosely one’s belongings of all sorts.
Last—a wooden form on which shoes are made.
Lasting—a strong, closely woven, double-twill, worsted fabric, mostly used for buttons and shoe tops.
Lasting—the process of giving shape to a shoe.
Lasting button—a b. made on a mold covered with lasting cloth; worn on evening dress almost exclusively.
Latch key—a door k. that sometimes does not fit.
Latchet—a shoe lace or fastener of a sandal.
Latin cassock—differing from the Anglican c. in that it buttons all the way down the front with the cincture knotted forward of the left hip.
Launder—to wash and iron, as articles of clothing.
Laundry—the place of destruction.
Laundry bag—better than a newspaper for your soiled linen.
Laundryman—keeper of the place of torment.
Laundry marks—causes of profanity.
Lavant—see Wig.
Lavender—a nice, clean scent for linen.
Laventine—a thin silk used for sleeve linings.
Lawyer’s—see Wig.
Lay—in garment making the disposition of the paper patterns upon the cloth prior to cutting, so arranged as to effect economy of material, achieve exact matching of patterns, etc.
Lay down collar—a low, folded linen shirt c.
Lay-out—see Lay.
Lay-over—see Lapel.
Lay-up—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp knife a number of collars or parts are cut at one time.
Layette—a fussy outfit of clothes, etc., provided in anticipation of units affecting the birthrate.
Leaf—in tailoring, a word used to describe the folded part of a collar (exclusiv of the lapels). The ordinary coat collar consists of an outer l., or that part folded over, and an inner l., or that part on the inside of the fold, also called the “stand”. Used alone the word leaf means outer l.
Leaf—a division of warp threads in weaving for the insertion of the weft; a loom harness.
Leather—cant term for pocketbook—to “pull off leather”, is, therefore, to steal pocketbooks or purses.
Leathers—colloquial for coachmen’s kidskin livery breeches.
Left dress—the right way. See Dress.
Left-overs—goods carried over from one season or “sale” to another.
Left twill—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom of the cloth (held lengthwise) upwardly to the left. See Right t.
Leg irons—climbing irons; also shackles.
Leggin—a covering for the leg like a long gaiter; a protector in cold or wet weather or outdoor sports. (Legging.) See Puttee.
Leghorn—a light-weight hat straw, usually in herringbone weave.
Leipzig dye—an unusually rich color (and finish) given to sealskins and other furs dyed in Leipzig, which it seems impossible to obtain elsewhere. Compare London d.
Let out—to make larger or longer.
Letter-carrier’s uniform—see Postman’s u.
Leur—a hatter’s brushing pad.
Levantine—a stout twilled silk, each side finisht equally but of different colors.
Levelling—a mechanical process in shoemaking, following the operation of Goodyear stitching, whereby the turn-up of the channel is prest down or leveled by means of two rolls moving automatically back and forth with a pressure of about 5000 pounds.
Levy—eleven pence, the value of the Spanish real, which circulated in this country some years ago. (Pronounced levvy.)
Lid—a hat—slang, of course.
Lid—a pocket flap.
Lieutenant’s uniform—(navy) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress; (revenue cutter service) Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Social full dress; (army) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. See also variations.
Lieutenant general’s uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.
Life belt—a belt of inflated rubber, or one containing cork, for use as a life preserver.
Life preserver—a cork-filled belt, ring or jacket worn, if obtainable, after accidents at sea.
Lifters—cant for crutches.
Ligne—a unit of measurement: ¹⁄₁₁ of an inch (ribbon measure), ¹⁄₄₀ of an inch (button measure), etc.; the rib of a braid; as 6 ribs is 6 ligne, etc.
Lily irons—confederate handcuffs.
Limericks—a name once given to gloves of such delicate thinness, that altho they would fit a large hand, they would fold up into the compass of a walnut shell. From the town of that name, once famous for its glove industry. For the nature of the leather see Morts and Slinks.
Limestone wool—powdered limestone mixt with chemicals, subjected to heat and strong air-blast, coming out as fluffy white wool, which is woven into a flexible fabric used for clothing.
Liming—a process in leather preparation following that of sweating (qv), whereby roots of hairs are loosened.
Line—the fine, long fiber of flax, separated from the tow by heckling.
Line—see Ligne.
Lined gold—see Rolled g.
Linen—general name for fabrics woven from yarns spun from the fiber of flax; nothing like reading an encyclopedic article.
Linen mesh—a net or cellular sort of weave, of linen, used for undergarments.
Linen prover—see Counting glass.
Linen test—see Breaking t., Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t., Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.
Lining—general term for materials used for covering the inner side of a garment or anything. In men’s clothing usually silk, Italian cloth, farmer’s satin, serge, alpaca, silesia, etc.
Links—(1) shirt cuffs not closed or overlapping at the ends when buttoned; (2) double-headed buttons worn with link cuffs, of the dumb-bell or loose-link variety; (3) two coat buttons joined by workt strands of silk thread, worn sometimes in dress and frock coats, also in open vented sleeves.
Linocord—proprietary name given to a style of buttonhole for collars and cuffs having a line of heavy thread or cord (whence name) past and worked around the aperture.
Linsey-woolsey—a stout, medium-weight cloth made with linen warp and wool filling; a homespun and homewoven fabric of colonial days, now practically obsolete.
Lirripipe—a sort of tippet, tempus Richard II.
Lisle thread—a fine, hard twisted, compact t. of long staple cotton prepared by combing instead of by carding, employed in the manufacture of fine hosiery, underwear, gloves, etc.
List—the selvage of woven textil fabrics.
List slippers—cloth s.
Litter—a temporary bed upon which a wounded or sick person is carried.
Little Lord Fauntleroy—an impossible kid that started a clothes cult.
Live net—a netted-mesh bag for bringing home fish, made much like a woman’s shopping bag.
Liver pad—slang for chest protector (qv).
Livery—the dress or uniform of servants.
Livery—see Wool.
Livery cloth—see Boxcloth.
Livery tailor—one who makes a specialty of and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of dress and undress livery and uniforms.
Livery undress—groom’s frock or sack stable suit, made of tan, brown or black mixt whipcord. The frock coat may be worn with either trousers or breeches and leggings.
Living-in—term describing the manner of employment of English shop assistants who are generally boarded with or at the expense of their employers in quarters above the stores or in specially maintained dormitories or barracks; a survival of the old system of apprenticeship, but which, under pressure of public opinion and modern business ideas, is dying away to the greater independence and welfare of the clerks.
Lizzie—a mental dude.
Llama—a soft, glossy, woolen suiting woven with a fine twill; a finer and more expensiv cloth than vicuna (which it resembles), properly made from the fleece of the Llama goat, tho largely mixt with cheaper wool.
Loaded—dyer’s term for fabrics surcharged with gums and other dressings for extra or fraudulent weight.
Loading—see Weighting.
Lock front—trade term for shirt collars of the folded variety having one blade or end so shaped and extended as to go within the opposit fold and hold the collar firmly in position or “lock” it. See also Meeting folder and Spaced front.
Lock-out—the shutting up of a mill, factory or store because the owners will not agree to demands of employes or because latter would not agree to work on terms offered by the employers.
Lock stitch—see Chain s.
Lockram—a cheap, coarse linen fabric, originally made in Locrenan, Brittany.
Locust—familiar for policeman’s club; a night stick.
Loden—a waterproof cloth made by the peasants in the Tyrol from wool of mountain sheep; resembles Irish frieze, and is mostly used for knockabout shirts for mountain climbing, hunting, prospecting, etc.
Logwood—the blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name.
Loin cloth—complete attire in hot, uncivilized countries—among the natives.
London—the mere name was once virtually deified and counted the arbiter elegantiarum in men’s wear.
London dye—trade term for the rich brown d. of sealskins, especially employed when the skins are actually dyed in London. Compare Leipzig d.
London fashions—a term of conjuration used by tailors and readymaders alike but having no significance apart from the casuistry of the words.
London letter—a fashion l. written in New York or anywhere but London.
London shrunk—see Cold water s.
London toe—in shoemaking, a medium broad t.
Long dresses—the clothes of early infancy.
Long measures—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements characterized by the taking of as few and as comprehensiv measurements as necessary to lay out a pattern, which measurements are subdivided in drafting, as required to give other dimensions not taken on the victim on the block. Compare Short m. and Superlativ m.
Long moire—m. antique (qv).
Long neckt—see Low-n.
Long pants—the first important event in a boy’s life.
Long roll—tailor’s term for lapels or revers buttoning low and usually soft-prest.
Long-slim—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall, slender persons. Compare Slim, Long-stout and Longs.
Long staple—having a long fiber. See Cotton and Wool. Compare Short s.
Long-stout—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of more than average hight.
Long tail—see Wig.
Long togs—nautical term for civilian clothes.
Long vamp—Synonymous with whole v., as compared with a short or cut-off v., a whole v., not having that part of the v. covering the toes, about the size of a tip on the ordinary shoe, cut off. By cutting off a little of the v. at this point a saving is made in the leather, and, therefore, in the cost of a shoe; but with some leathers, however, it makes a better shoe.
Long wool—fleece 4 to 10 inches long. See Wool.
Longs—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall men. Compare Slim, Long-slim and Long-stout.
Longs—early familiar term for pantaloons or trousers. Compare Shorts.
Lonsdale—a brand of shirting muslin and cambric.
Looking glass—a reflector of vanities. See Mirror.
Loom—a machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a fabric, by the crossing of threads called chain or warp, running lengthwise, with others called weft, woof or filling, running crosswise.
Loom card—a perforated pattern card, such as is used on the Jacquard loom.
Loom figured—textil term for patterns or effects produced by arrangement of warp and weft threads in contradistinction to those made by printing; “self-figured”.
Loom harness—that portion of a loom which so operates or acts upon the warp threads as to make the opening thru which the shuttle flies.
Loomask—a kind of half mask. See Loup.
Looney—an oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat.
Loop stitch—see Chain s.
Loopt yarn—see Curled y.
Looscarf—proprietary name for a linen shirt collar, of the double or high-banded order, so made that a scarf or tie slips around in it easily, without the tension characterising the ordinary style of collar.
Loose-fitting—by no means tight nor close; free; boxy.
Loose links—linkt cuff buttons not rigidly connected, but held together by means of a fine chain, a large link, or a separable slip catch.
Loose skins—a sort of union outer-suit. See Jepson.
Lord Chumley—the cape overcoat popular in this country about 1890, from the play of that name; still popular abroad as a traveling coat.
Loretto—a fine silk material largely used for waistcoats about 1767.
Lot number—a stock n. given to goods for identification purposes.
Louchettes—goggles permitting vision only directly in front, used for strabismus.
Loud—gaily drest; flashy.
Louisine—a fine twilled silk fabric, similar to surah, but softer and firmer.
Lounge jacket—English name for our single-breasted sack coat.
Lounge suit—a sack s.
Lounging robe—a long, loose, house gown.
Loup—a light mask or half mask, usually of silk, worn at masquerades, etc.
Louse-trap—vulgar for a fine-tooth comb.
Love knot—see True lovers’ k.
Love lock—a long lock of hair curled and tied with ribbons, worn hanging in front of the shoulder: an early 17th century fashion for men. See also Ear lock.
Lovelace—a dandified libertine with graceful, agreeable manners.
Low common—wool classification term. See Wool.
Low-cuts—see Low quarters and Oxfords.
Low middling—see Cotton classification.
Low-neckt—a garment is said to be “low-neckt” or “long-neckt” when the gorge in front is cut low. (L.-necked.)
Low quarters—trade term for low-cut shoes, as Oxfords, pumps, etc.
Low-shouldered—the extreme opposit of “high-shouldered”.
Luggage—British for baggage (qv).
Lumbermen’s socks—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, close and compact, usually knee length, for wear in boots or with arctics.
Lunatic fringe—see Idiot f.
Lunch bag—same as Ammunition b.
Luncheon basket—a lined, dust-proof wicker b. or hamper fitted with dishes, cooking utensils, etc., for coaching parties, etc.
Luster—a low grade or imitation alpaca cloth, often with wool weft in place of alpaca.
Lustering—a mechanical process of giving to cloth, usually by steam and pressure, a smooth and glossy surface sufficiently durable to withstand wear.
Lustrene—a thin, twilled cotton fabric, mercerized or finisht in imitation of silk, and employed as a lining material.
Lustring—a soft, plain-woven silk fabric, widely worn from late 17th to middle of 19th century. See Lutestring.
Lustro-fiber—same as art silk—wood pulp.
Lutestring—(1) the old-fashioned, glossy silk stuff our ancestors had their gay clothes made of; (2) also a narrow silk ribbon, without selvage, used for eye-glass cords by the spectacular.
Lynx—a feline mammal whose fur is largely used in making winter garments.
M
Macaroni—an obsolete dude. This word dates from 1770, when a number of traveled, idle young cads founded the “Macaroni Club” in London, the name standing for all that was extreme or grotesque in dress; one of their greatest affectations was a high-pointed peakt roll of craped and powdered hair, that women also affected, as well as great breastknots of flowers. The word had considerable vogue in America in Revolutionary times, and m. waistcoats, m. hats, m. purses, etc., were quite popular; the term also occurs in our national “Yankee Doodle”.
Machine buttonhole—produced by machine in imitation of handmade b. and distinguisht principally by a uniformity impossible in hand work and often superior thereto in neatness and strength tho not necessarily so in wear; also considerably cheaper.
Machine twist—a 3 cord, silk thread twisted to the left so that as it runs thru the machine needle the tension causes the thread to tighten up and work or sink into the cloth. See also Sewing silk and Buttonhole t.
Mackinaw—a sort of extra heavy woolen blanketing, well fulled, woven in fancy patterns, employed for hunters and lumbermen’s coats, etc., also as linings for same.
Mackinaw flannel—an extra heavy, all-wool fabric (16 to 24 oz), used by lumbermen, miners, etc., for overshirts, underwear, etc.; usually scarlet and navy-blue.
Mackinaw—a coarse, pliable white straw used in hats.
Mackintosh—a long, loose overcoat of waterproof material, for wear in stormy weather.
Macnab Harris—a hand-loomed tweed made of mill-spun yarn, exhibiting a uniformity of color not possible with homespun yarn.
Maco—trade name for Egyptian cotton—long staple, smooth, strong, glossy, easily dyed.
Madder—a vegetable red dye.
Made—general trade term expressiv of superiority, claimed or conceded, as “that is a made coat”, meaning well—not indifferently—made. Compare Shop m.
Madras—a superior variety of gingham, but of heavier weight and frequently corded.
Magellan jacket—a watch coat with hood, worn by sailors in high latitudes.
Magnetic hat—see Wilsonia magnetic h.
Magnetic ring—a r. of magnetized iron, supposed to have virtues in rheumatism and other such light ailments.
Mail carrier’s uniform—see Postman’s u.
Mail order—a sale transacted by mail.
Major—see Wig.
Major’s uniform—(army) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.
Major general’s uniform—(army) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.
Make-up—grease paints, powders, gums, patches, bits of hair, etc., used by theatrical performers in making up for their characters.
Make-up box—a japanned metal box carried by theatrical people for the purpose of impressing beholders with an appearance of Wall street affluence.
Making the lay—tailoring term for the act of laying out the paper patterns on the cloth for cutting in the most advantageous manner.
Malacca—a species of cane, imported from Sumatra, used for walking sticks.
Malo—a sort of girdle prepared from the inner bark of the tapa tree (Broussonetia) a foot or more in width and several yards long, worn by men in Hawaii before civilization swept over that fair land.
Mamos—magnificent feather cloaks worn by native kings and chiefs of the Hawaiian islands.
Man-milliner—a designer or seller of female apparel; often used contemptuously.
Man o’ war cap—a c. having a wide, extended flat top on a rim fitting to the head; the uniform c. for naval and merchant seamen; also popular for children.
Manacles—unfashionable cuffs.
Mandillion—a sort of loose jerkin or doublet.
Manicure—a bold, young female person of enormous pulchritude who commits felonious assaults upon your fingernails, and embarrasses you if you are not used to it.
Maniple—an ecclesiastical vestment, similar to a short stole, worn pendant from the left wrist by priest, deacon and subdeacon at mass.
Manipulated—term applied to fabrics which in weaving are mixt with some inferior substance, such as cotton with wool or silk, shoddy with wool, etc. Sometimes the adulterants are carded in with the better fibers, sometimes straight yarns of the baser stuffs are used. See Cotton cheat and Mercerized.
Mannheim gold—a brassy alloy for cheap jewelry, composed of 80 parts of copper, 20 of zinc, and sometimes with a trace of tin.
Mantaletta—a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen stuff, reaching to the knees, covering the rochet, worn by cardinals, bishops and other prelates.
Manteau Armenian—see Armenian cloak.
Mantle—a cloak.
Manufacturer—a producer of commodities, who is also sometimes (more or less erroneously) lookt upon as a dispenser of graft (qv).
Manufacturers’ sale—a merchandising subterfuge; a misnomer nine times out of ten.
Marabout—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.
Marching shoes—(army) for enlisted men: of russet tanned grain calf leather, thoroly stuft; worn with service uniform.
Marching uniform—see Service u., Dress u., etc.
Marienbad hat—see Tyrolean h.
Marine corps officer’s cape—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a circle and reaching to the tips of the fingers, lined with scarlet cloth, closed by 4 small buttons in fly, with hooks and eyes at neck, and with frog and loop as with overcoat; a detachable velvet collar with which the c. may be worn by itself by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.
Marine corps overcoats—for major general commandant and all other officers, a semi-fitting sack o. of dark blue cloth, lined with scarlet cloth, reaching 9 to 12 inches from the ground, closed with black mohair frogs and loops of mohair cord four-across, with a long loop and frogs attacht to fronts of shoulder; vertical pockets; rank indicated as prescribed; sword worn outside. For non-commissioned officers, drummers and privates: double-breasted, of sky-blue kersey, shaped to the body, extending 6 to 8 inches below the knee, 16 inch vent in back, stand-or-fall collar, 2 rows of 7 marine corps buttons on front, scarlet flannel lining; a one-piece cape to match. Other details per specifications. For leader of the band: same as prescribed for a first lieutenant, with same cape. For second leader, drum-major and musicians: same as for other enlisted men of the corps, the chevrons of second leader and drum-major to be on the cuffs.
Mark down—an ostensible price-reduction; a triumph of the ready ingenuity of the advertisement writer.
Marker—in ready-to-wear clothes manufacturing a workman who lays the patterns on the cloth and marks the cloth for the cutters.
Marking ink—employed by laundries to spoil one’s linen.
Marny tweeds—see Blarney t.
Marriage ring—a simple gold band, emblematic of bondage.
Marseilles—a heavy, stout-corded or figured bleacht cotton material similar to pique, used for waistcoats, etc.
Marsella—a stout, twill woven linen fabric, usually full bleacht and finisht without dressing.
Marten—a species of sable, the pelts being largely used in the manufacture of fur garments.
Mary Ann collar—British for the highband, folded or double shirt c.
Mary Walkers—trousers; derived from Dr. Mary Walker adopting as part of her dress a modified form of this article of male attire.
Mascaro—a preparation used by actors for changing the color of hair, beard or eye-brows in making up.
Masher—a dandified sumpinorother, often incarcerated when discovered; a Lizzie.
Mask—a device of cloth, paper or other material to cover the face or eyes or to conceal one’s identity and sentiments.
Mask cap—a c. for automobile wear, with a covering for the face with goggles secured therein.
Masonic uniform—see Sir Knights u., Commander’s u.
Masquerade costume—suit yourself.
Master’s gown—usually silk, long closed sleeves, worn with hood.
Match coat—a rough sort of c. of fur or coarse woolen cloth worn by the pilgrim settlers.
Match safe—a pocket container for matches, often obscene, of gold, silver, etc.
Matelasse—a backt or double cloth, the face of which is woven with a pattern having the effect of being wadded or quilted; usually of silk and worsted with a backing of cotton or wool-and-cotton; employed for waistcoats, house jackets, etc.