Matt—a lusterless or dull surface, as m. kid. Also spelt mat.
Maud—a traveling rug or shawl.
Mauve—a reddish-purple anilin dye.
McKay sewed—in shoemaking meaning soles and uppers sewed together on the McKay shoe sewing machine.
Measuring cape—a device, made of cotton or linen material, shaped to fit around the neck and to drop over one shoulder, front and back, reaching about to the waist, appropriately marked with scales of measurement; the invention of a tailor by name of Beatty, who claims it yields more accurate results than is possible by square and tape; the device is also applicable to drafting.
Measuring stick—a rule, with one fixt and one movable upright piece, for measuring the foot for shoes.
Measuring tape—a tailor’s t. measure, usually 56 to 60 inches long, often longer.
Mechanician’s suit—any strong, servicable suit, worn by mechanicians on big motor cars—commonly, sack style, with ample pockets, reinforcements, etc.
Medicin ball—something like a heavy football but with no medicin in it.
Medium bound—same as half-and-half b. Compare Narrow b. and Flat b.
Meeter—same as meeting folder.
Meeting folder—trade term for folded shirt collars that come close together or meet at the fold when buttoned. Compare Spaced front.
Melange—(1) a French word signifying mixture; (2) woolen fabrics of mixt yarns.
Melton—a stout, compact woolen cloth, thoroly fulled and finisht with a close, even nap without luster; very similar but superior to kersey (qv).
Men’s outfitter—a name commonly assumed, and not improperly, by retailers who combine haberdashery, and frequently hats and shoes, with the clothing business.
Mending tissue—same as Rubber t.
Mercer—a dealer in cloths or silks.
Mercerized—a term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated and the fabric finisht by a combined chemical-mechanical process described below; also applied to woolen fabrics containing an admixture of mercerized cotton. See Manipulated and Cotton cheat.
Mercerizing—the process of subjecting cotton yarns or cloth to the action of caustic soda and other chemicals, under stretching tension, with various subsequent finishing operations, resulting in threads or fabrics softer, silkier and stronger than before treatment; named from John Mercer, an English calico printer, the original discoverer but not the perfecter of the process.
Merchant—one who buys and sells commercial commodities; specifically, a retailer.
Merchant tailor—a clothier who combines tailoring with readymade. Compare Custom t.
Merino—(1) a thin woolen fabric made of the fine wool of the m. sheep, generally used for women’s dress wear; (2) also a knitted underwear fabric containing more or less cotton intermixt; (3) hosiery and underwear of wool-and-cotton.
Merino—the wool of a variety of sheep raised principally for their wool, which is of fine quality, long staple and of unequaled felting properties. See Wool.
Merveilleux—a fine, diagonal-twilled silk fabric with a satiny face, largely used for linings.
Mess dress—(navy) a uniform to be worn on ordinary social occasions in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, and where hot weather or other circumstances make it appropriate, also at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate, by officers for whom the mess jacket is prescribed, when the uniform of the day has been white, or, at discretion of commanding officer, instead of “evening dress B”. Consists of, for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: mess jacket, white evening dress waistcoat, undress trousers (white or full dress trousers, may be prescribed), shoulder marks, white cap, black tie.
Mess dress—(marine corps) worn by all officers on mess occasions, and may be worn on social occasions to which officers are invited in their official capacity, or when evening dress B. is prescribed for officers of the navy. Consists of mess jacket (blue), evening dress trousers and waistcoat, shoulder knots, white standing collar, black silk tie, full dress cap, black shoes (white waistcoat if prescribed); in summer, white mess jacket, white or evening dress trousers, white waistcoat, blue or white undress cap, black or white shoes; otherwise the same.
Mess jacket—(army) a short j. of dark blue cloth, cut like the body of an evening dress coat, descending to the hips, slightly curved to a point behind and in front, 3 regulation buttons, sleeves ornamented same as full dress coat, with other decorations as adopted by the corps to which the wearers belong, and as prescribed by regulation.
Mess jacket—(navy) a short coat of white linen duck or similar material, cut similar to body of evening dress coat but descending only to the hips and slightly roached over the hips with a peak behind; 2 buttons on each side below the lapels and worn with two buttons connected by a ring from the first buttonhole; appropriate shoulder marks according to regulations. For chaplains: same with white buttons.
Mess jacket—(marine corps) a round j. of dark blue cloth lined with scarlet silk to edges, in length reaching to point of the hips at sides and curving to points in front and rear, 16 small marine corps buttons on right side, with buttonholes to match on left side, standing collar, and with trimmings for rank as per regulations; to be worn unbuttoned. Also a white j. of similar style, for wear, as prescribed. Worn by major general commandant and all other officers.
Mess uniform—(army) officers of staff corps and departments, of artillery, cavalry and infantry are authorized to adopt a mess jacket distinctiv of their corps, department or regiment, for social evening occasions; with it are worn a waistcoat of the color of the coat (or white) and full dress trousers, altho in warm weather or in the tropics, white trousers may be worn; black shoes.
Messenger’s suit—usually a four-button, double-breasted sack s., of plain cloth, with regular peakt lapel collar, with or without braid trimming, trousers to match. Or, military blouse with three diverging rows of buttons closing with hooks and eyes.
Metric system—better than ours: look it up.
Mexican fiber—Istle (qv).
Mi-fine—half f. See Fine.
Middlesex—general term for standard uniform cloths made by the Middlesex Co., Lowell, Mass.
Middling—see Cotton classification.
Middling fair—see Cotton classification.
Middy suit—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and long trousers with wide mouths. Compare Sailor s.
Midshipman’s uniform—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variants.
Milan—a fine, pliable white straw for hats.
Milan braid—a variety of flat mohair braid used for trimming and binding.
Military—term for garments affecting military uniforms in fit or detail of finish; also military garments per se.
Military back—close-fitting; shaped.
Military braid—a name sometimes given to hercules b. and soutache b.
Military brushes—twin hair b. of oval shape, without handle, used two at a time.
Military cloths—general term for woolen fabrics intended for uniform purposes, such as kersey.
Military coat—trade name for short sack c. of 1899, having a close-fitting back.
Military collar—a plain, straight standing coat c. without turn over, of prescribed hights, fastening in front with hooks and eyes.
Military hair-brushes—see M. brushes.
Military overcoat—see Army o.
Military uniforms—see Army u.
Mill—(1) a place where fabrics are woven; (2) an occasion where two gentlemen endeavor to smash the padding out of a peculiar sort of gloves over each other’s face and solar plexus.
Mill ends—trade term referring to short lengths, remnants, seconds, damaged pieces, etc., that accumulate in mills and are usually sold at a nominal price.
Mill finish—a beautiful appearance given to cloths, fabrics, etc., which provokes the question, “How will it look after it is sponged or laundered”?
Mill-gang—that part of a loom-warp made by a rising and falling course of the threads around old-style warping-mills.
Mill wrinkles—see Cockling.
Milliner—a shopkeeper to whom much of hubby’s money goes.
Milling—the process of fulling or thickening cloth. See an encyclopedia.
Millwright frock—something worn about 1825, but not identified.
Miner’s coat—a rubber overcoat of generous size, having reinforced sleeves, shoulders, etc., and usually elastic inside sleeves or dust shields.
Minister’s—affectionate abbreviation for standard fashion plates publisht in London by a firm of that name, and subscribed for over here for the purpose of awing customers into a higher respect for their tailors.
Mink—an amphibious musteline carnivore of the genus Putorious, the pelt of which is an important article of fur garment manufacture.
Mirror—glass with one side so backt or coated as to form a nearly perfect reflecting surface.
Misericorde—a “dagger of mercy” carried by European soldiery of 15th century for the final dispatch of fallen foes.
Misfit—the term is a terror to tailors.
Misfit shop—a merchandising lie.
Mitchell’s—familiar term for standard American fashion plates publisht by a concern of that name in New York city, and which, like all other fashion plates, make a most impressiv show.
Miter—a headdress worn in solemn services by bishops and certain abbots; a tall, tongue-shape cap, terminating in a two-fold point, the whole richly ornamented. (Mitre.)
Mitten—an unwelcome gift from a woman.
Mittens—a covering or protection for the hands, of leather or knitted wool, the thumb only being fashioned, the rest of the fingers covered by a single sack or the larger part of the mitten. (Almost always used plural).
Mixing picker—a machine for disentangling wool fibers and thoroly mixing them before carding.
Mixing willey—same as M. picker.
Mixture—trade term for fabrics woven of dyed yarns, the warp and weft being of different shades, or either or both of twisted yarns of different colors; any melange weave or effect.
Moccasin—a foot covering or shoe, without built-up heels, of buckskin or other soft leather, worn by American Indians, hunters, and others.
Moccasin shoe—a light, pliable shoe of stout leather, without heel, somewhat resembling a m.
Mocha—general term for sheep or goatskin glove leather, of soft, velvety appearance and very durable quality.
Moche—a package of spun silk as received in import.
Mock gold—an alloy of copper, zinc and platinum.
Mock seam—(glove term) a row or rows of stitching in imitation of a s.
Mock velvet—see Mockado.
Mock welt—in shoemaking, an imitation of the Goodyear process of sole sewing. See Welt sole, Goodyear welt, McKay sewed, etc.
Mockado—a sort of velvet with a very deep pile, the better grades being of silk, the cheaper of wool, used in 16th and 17th centuries. Also called Mock velvet.
Mode—the prevailing fashion or custom.
Mode—a sort of tan shade; ecru.
Modelers—workmen who try garments on human models.
Models—persons employed by some clothing manufacturers and upon whom the various garments are fitted for approval; representing types of the section where the garments are to be marketed.
Mohair—(1) the fine, silky hair of the Angora goat; (2) a glistening, light-weight, plain-woven fabric of cotton warp and filling of mohair, enormously durable, used for summer coats, linings, etc.; also twill woven. See Angora.
Mohair braid—a woven b. of mohair, coarser than silk b. of various widths, used principally for military, society and livery uniforms, known variously, according to weave, as hercules b., soutache b., etc.
Mohair button—a b. made on a mold covered with braided mohair threads, worn on dress coats, overcoats, waistcoats, etc.
Mohair corsican—a light-weight fabric for summer suitings, woven of Australian wool and fine mohair carded together, with a finish lacking the usual sheen or luster of mohair, and warranted by the makers not to cockle, wrinkle or be affected by damp weather. (Proprietary name).
Mohair serge—a stout, twill woven lining material of cotton warp and m. weft.
Moire—(1) a wavy or watered effect produced on silks and other fabrics by means of passage thru suitably engraved rollers with brushlike attachments for disturbing and shifting the warp threads, the process embracing dampening, great pressure and ironing; (2) general name for silk (and other fabrics) so treated; also called Watered (silk).
Moire antique—an all-over m. effect. See Moire.
Moire francaise—a striped or banded m. effect. See Moire.
Molded counter—in shoemaking, a c. made of shoddy or imitation leather.
Moleskin—a heavy, stout, flexible, close twilled cotton cloth, piece dyed and finisht with a scant nap on the back, used for hunting and sporting clothes; usually tan or slate-colored. An imitation thereof, known by the same name, but lighter, and with a printed surface, is used for laborer’s trousers, etc.
Moleskins—colloquial for football clothes.
Mollie—reverse of tomboy.
Mollycoddle—sissified males, usually distinguishable by the omnipresent cigaret, also by inflammable neckwear and protesting clothes generally, and characterised by incurable lassitude, complicated by chronic ogling of pretty girls.
Momie—general term for fabrics characterised by rough, uneven weave produced by the threads crossing at irregular intervals or by warp and weft threads of various sizes. (Fr mummy).
Money-belt—a device for containing money, worn around the waist under the clothes, commonly of oiled silk or chamois leather—usually excess luggage.
Monk bag—a small purse which sailors wear strung around the neck, containing their money and other valuables.
Monkey-jacket—a short j. cut in sack form, fitting close to the waist and flaring out at the bottom. Worn by sailors in cold weather.
Monmouth cap—a c. worn about 1600, largely by sailors.
Monocle—an eye-glass for one eye; English, y’ know.
Montagnac—a variety of chinchilla overcoating (qv), having a surface composed of small loops, part of which are cut and brusht into a flowing nap producing, with the uncut part, a rough, shaggy effect. Name from Montagnac Fils, Sedan, France, the original weavers.
Montero cap—a horseman’s knitted or cloth c. with a simple round crown and a flap around the back and sides that could be worn down for protection; worn from 1600 until late in 1800. Also called Mountier c.
Mooding—cutlery term for the rough shapening of blades at the first heat.
Mopusses—nautical slang for money in general.
Mordant—dyeing term for any metallic salt used as a connecting bond between dye and fabric.
Morice-dancing dress—a curious garment of fawn-colored silk, made in the form of a tunic, with slasht sleeves and trappings of red and green satin, worn by members of the ancient guild of Glovers at their entertainments, in which dance they had a remarkable proficiency. Accompanying the garment were 252 small circular bells, arranged in 21 sets of 12 bells each, upon strips of leather, and fastened on various parts of the dancer’s body, such sets of bells being perfectly attuned in regular musical intervals.
Morion—a pointed oval iron helmet with a curved rim, bent down over the ears, worn by French arquebusiers of the 16th century.
Morning coat—a single-breasted cutaway frock c., properly of black or quiet patterned goods, with or without hip pockets.
Morning livery—for house footmen, usually plain black tuxedo suit; for club and hotel waiters, black, blue or green tuxedo coat and trousers, with fancy vest.
Morse—a clasp used to fasten the cope (qv).
Mortarboard—a college cap of soft, black material, made to fit the head like a skull cap, surmounted by a square of cardboard or stiffened canvas (about 12 × 12 inches), also covered with black cloth and with a loose silk tassel about 10 inches long attacht to a button placed where the diagonals of the square would intersect.
Morts—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn calves, taken from cows that had died. Compare Slinks.
Moschettos—garments very similar to pantaloons (qv) continued to the small of the leg, with a slight spring when the top of the shoe is reacht, having an opening with a gaiter tongue and closing with buttons, forming a combination of pantaloons and gaiters; worn early in last century.
Moscow—an overcoating cloth with a heavy nap, similar to Shetland (qv).
Mosey—an under-jacket, usually made of baize or flannel, and worn instead of an undershirt but over the shirt in cold weather, and as an outside garment in moderate or warm weather; also called a “wammus” (qv).
Mosquito netting—a square mesh, open-woven, cotton fabric, employed for bed canopies, tent-opening covers, helmet aprons, etc.
Moth balls—aromatic substances used to disguise the odor of goods that have been carried over from one season to another.
Mother of pearl—see Nacre.
Moths—pests that make business for the clothier or tailor, or disaster, according to where they work.
Motley—“the only wear” for fools.
Motor shawl—a light, woolen wrap or neckpiece for motoring and outdoor use generally.
Motorman’s uniform—usually same as conductor’s u., which see.
Mouchoir—handkerchief.
Moule cloth—a soft, velvety overcoating of good thickness but of comparativly light-weight, tho very warm.
Mountaineer’s boot—same as hunting b., with an extra outside counter of sole leather protecting the heel.
Mountaineer’s coat—a bifurcated overcoat, usually of rubber or other waterproof material, buttoning around each leg and closing snugly around neck and wrists by means of straps or tabs.
Mountier cap—see Montero-c.
Mourning—symptoms of real or simulated grief.
Mourning badge—(navy) for officers a crepe band about 3 inches wide and about 20 inches long, knotted upon the sword hilt, and a crepe band 3 inches wide worn on the left arm above the elbow; (army) a knot of black crepe worn on the saber hilt for a period not exceeding 30 days.
Mourning band—a broad b. or brassard of black crepe fastened on the left arm of a coat, as a makeshift symbol of customary grief. Originally worn on English army officers’ caps, which, being too low to display both b. and decorations or insignia, enforced the dropping to the sleeve; next adopted by coachmen and footmen as recognition of death in the master’s family; afterward by costermongers because of its cheapness (and showiness), the cost of new black clothes being a grave consideration. Finally pickt up by ignorant Americans because of a fancied “smartness”—like the nouveau riche who invents a coat of arms, bearing a bend sinister.
Mourning colors—black thruout Europe and America, with a tendency to purple in combination; yellow, Egypt and Burmah; brown, Persia, Ethiopia and Abyssinia; white, China; blue, China; violet, Turkey.
Mourning crepe—see Crepe.
Mourning handkerchief—black bordered.
Mourning jewelry—usually lockets made of a lock of the hair of the dear departed, sometimes encircling a portrait or miniature, emblematic of g-r-i-e-f!
Mourning periods—see Appendix.
Mourning ring—a finger r. worn in memory of a dead person, who may have bequeathed it or the money to purchase it; once upon a time en regle at a funeral and awhile after; often enameled black and bearing lugubrious moral mottos.
Moustache curler—see Curling iron.
Moustache paste—a sort of pomade used by actors, in making up, for the purpose of hiding or flattening their own upper-lip adornments.
Moustache trainer—a device for giving a fierce, amiable, freakish, languid, important or asinine appearance to one’s labial adornment.
Muckender—colonial for handkerchief.
Mozetta—a short cape covering the shoulders, a part of the state dress of bishops when not pontificating, worn with the rochet.
Mud scows—slang for overshoes.
Muff—a cylindrical fur pillow or cushion into which the hands are thrust to keep them warm, nowadays carried only by women, but once upon a time men, too, wore them.
Muffetees—colonial for wristlets.
Muffler—a piece of silk, wool or other material, usually square, used for warmth and protection of the throat in cold weather.
Muffler—a name once given to boxing gloves.
Mufflet—proprietary name for a knitted throat band, buttoning in the back, with a small apron in front covering the coat opening.
Mufti—(1) citizen’s dress worn by military or naval officers off duty; (2) ordinary dress as distinguisht from full dress or dress for state occasions.
Mule—a slipper without heel or heel-counter; a slip-on.
Mule—a spinning machine delivering rovings from drawing-rolls to spindles on a carriage that recedes from the rolls as the threads are twisted and returns to them as the thread is wound, performing the operations of drawing, stretching and twisting simultaneously.
Muleskin—a leather of obvious derivation used for heavy working gloves and mittens.
Mullet—the rowel of a spur.
Mungo—the waste produced in a woolen mill from hardspun or felted cloth, and which is used in connection with wool, cotton or better grades of waste in the manufacture of backing yarns or cheap cloth. Compare Shoddy and Garnetting.
Murry—reddish purple; in olden time “a favorit color for the garments of respectable elderly gentlemen”.
Mushy—clerks’ term for loosely rolled bolts of cloth.
Musician’s uniform—(navy) see Full dress u., Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.
Musk—a perfume distilled from a secretion found in a sac in the stomach of the m. deer and other animals; the strongest and most durable of all perfumes, almost ineradicable when used in the pure state, and for which negroes have an extraordinary fondness. Musk forms the basis of many compounded scents.
Muskrat—a common marsh animal yielding a valuable fur, used as an imitation of sealskin and other costly furs; also used by hat manufacturers.
Muslin—a light, commonly plain-woven cotton cloth of various classes and names, as bleacht, unbleacht, twilled, cambric, longcloth, shirting, sheeting, silesia, and a number of others; used for shirts, night robes, etc., and in tailoring as linings and interlinings.
Mutton chops—side whiskers shaped like mutton chops, moderately trimmed.
N
Nacre—(1) mother of pearl; (2) an iridescent effect in silk weaving.
Nail—2¼ inches.
Nail—an emergency fastening when a suspender button gives way.
Nail clipper—a mechanical device for putting saw edges on one’s fingernails.
Nail file—an instrument of toilet torture.
Nail heads—name for small, rounded, covered buttons used decorativly.
Nainsook—a stout, glossy muslin, striped, barred or plain.
Naked—in need of clothes (?).
Name tag—a leather or metal adjunct to traveling luggage, carrying name and address of the owner for the information of confidence men.
Name web—a strip of cotton webbing with name of manufacturer or dealer woven therein, as shoe pulls, etc.
Nankeen—properly a peculiar fabric of a pale, dull orange color, woven out of the fibrous tissue which lies between the epidermis and the sapwood of a tree or shrub which grows in the East Indies and especially in China. The name is derived from the imperial city of Nankin or from the tree or shrub which yields the tissue. An imitation is made out of cotton and colored with aleutta. The genuine nankeen is never more than 18 or 20 inches wide, and is used mostly for light summer trousers, riding breeches, and children’s clothing.
Nap—the projecting and inclined fibers of warp and filling thread on the surface of flannel, silk-hat material and various cloths, forming a soft surface, lying smoothly in one direction, particularly if of uniform length or texture, but feeling rough or bristly if rubbed the wrong way or against the nap.
Napa—light, tough, goatskin glove leather.
Nape—the starting point from which the length and the shoulder-measures are taken for a coat. A vertebral protuberance located in the back central part of the neck at its junction with the thorax or trunk.
Naphtha—an inflammable petroleum distillate used as a cleansing agent.
Napier cloth—a once popular, double-face c. for cloaks and wraps, one side wool, the other of hair.
Napoleon leg—a boot-l. with a “wave” top, high in front, receding sides and low back.
Napping machine—an apparatus for producing a nap on cloth, etc., particularly the modern form having fine steel wires rotating on rollers, to take the place of teasels, thus distinguisht from the older gigging machine.
Nappy—having a nap; shaggy.
Napt—having a nap, of course. (Napped.)
Narrow—trade term for goods not up to stated width. Compare N. goods.
Narrow-bound—in tailoring, an edge finish obtained by the use of a narrow braid applied half-and-half. Compare Medium-b. and Broad-b.
Narrow falls—trade name for front fall trousers in which the front flap or fall begins at about the center of each leg and is made with a smaller fall-bearer than is required in broadfalls (qv). Also called Split f.
Narrow goods—trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide; wider cloths called broad.
Nasal filter—a device having a screen or double screens of fine gauze or bolting cloth intended for wear when motoring, etc., to exclude dust.
Natte—textil term meaning matted or basket-weave, n. fabrics usually having small checks, in one or more colors, with the effect of being braided.
Natural—trade term for undyed furs.
Natural shoulders—not extravagantly padded artificially.
Nature’s garb—proscribed.
Navajo blanket—a stout, heavy woolen b. primitivly woven by the Navajo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico, of fantastic color combinations and so closely woven and compacted that the texture is absolutely waterproof.
Naval lace—a variety of gold braid used for trimming uniforms.
Naval officer’s cloak—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a circle, of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with a rolling collar and with a frog on the breast.
Naval officer’s mackintosh—of black material reaching to 9 or 12 inches of the ground, having a rolling collar, no sleeves, and a cape reaching to the ends of the fingers; epaulets or shoulder knots as per regulation.
Naval overcoat—for officers: a long double-breasted ulster of dark blue cloth, buttoning to the neck with deep rolling ulster collar, 7 plain flat black buttons on each front, a deep vertical pocket in each breast, a belt extending from each side seam, buttoning across the back (which is cut quite full), a deep vent in the back and another over the left hip for the sword; a detachable hood, buttoning around the neck, for cold weather wear; shoulder and sleeve marks as prescribed by regulations; for chief petty officers, except bandmaster: a double-breasted ulster of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knees, lined with dark blue flannel, buttoning to the neck with deep, rolling collar, 5 large black buttons on each side, 2 vertical breast pockets and 2 lower horizontal pockets with flaps; for all other enlisted men, except bandsmen: the same, but of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers; for bandsmen: of similar model, but of sky-blue kersey, reaching to 6 or 8 inches below the knee, with a 16 in. back (center) vent, 2 rows of 7 gilt buttons, rolling collar, to which a circular cape, lined with scarlet flannel, is attacht on specified occasions.
Naval overshirt—a shirt worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of dark blue flannel, loose in the body, gathered at the waist, having a collar 9 to 10 inches deep and 14 to 18 inches wide beginning at the opening in the neck (which is 7 inches deep), full sleeves terminating in fitting wristcuffs, a small pocket in the left breast; collar and cuffs trimmed with white tape and with sleeve insignia all as prescribed for the several ratings.
Naval trousers—for all enlisted men, excepting chief petty officers and bandsmen: (1) of dark blue cloth fitting snugly over the hip and down the thigh to 2 inches above the knee, from which point downward cut bell shaped and full enough to be pulled up over the thigh; one seam on each leg on the inside; made with a laced back and front falls; 2 pockets in waistband above the flap, no hip pocket; (2) of bleacht cotton drill for dress and unbleacht for undress, made with a fly front and top pockets, otherwise as described for blue trousers.
Naval uniforms—for officers, are specially designated (1) special full dress, (2) full dress, (3) dress, (4) undress A, (5) undress B, (6) service dress, (7) evening dress A, (8) evening dress B, (9) mess dress, (10) uniform A, (11) uniform B, (12) uniform C; for enlisted men, are designated (1) blue dress, (2) blue undress, (3) white dress, (4) white undress, (5) blue working dress, (6) white working dress, all of which see.
Navy twills—a heavy all-wool shirting flannel, twill woven, usually dyed navy-blue.
Near edge—in drafting, that edge of the pattern nearest the designer. (Tailoring term.)
Near-seal—not very near at that.
Near-silk—a mercerized cotton lining fabric having a slight glaze and high luster, with or without a twill or artificially imparted moire.
Neat—tasteful, not tawdry, clean.
Neat—see Wool.
Neats-foot oil—an o. obtained from the feet of cattle and esteemed good for keeping shoes in condition.
Neck—the stem made by the thread when sewing on buttons; as “the neck is too short” when too tight, or “the neck is too long” when too loose or drooping. (Tailoring term.)
Neck hole—tailoring term, applied to garments ready for try-on, meaning the opening to which the collar is not yet sewed on.
Neck lock—see Wig.
Neck point—the socket bone; a term in tailor’s measurements, indicating where the collar is to be adjusted to the garment.
Neck stock—see Stock.
Neckband—that part of a shirt which by going often to the laundry acquires a hardness, serration and temper prejudicial to the comfort, peace and happiness of the wearer.
Neckcloth—a cravat, scarf or other neckdressing.
Neckerchief—a square or oblong piece of silk, linen or cotton, of suitable pattern, worn as a neckcovering, principally with outing attire.
Necktie—correctly, a long, narrow tie fastened in a bow in front.
Necktie silks—see Cravating.
Necktie sociable—a vigilance committee’s soiree.
Neckwear—trade term for neckdressings of all sorts, particularly cravats, stocks, ties, etc.
Needle—a small, slender pointed steel instrument with an eye for carrying thread thru fabrics in sewing; of various kinds, known among tailors as silk-n., thread-n., button-n., basting-n., etc., and these again are known as sharps, blunts, betweens, etc.
Needle-board—a perforated board used to guide the needles in a Jacquard loom.
Needle toe—an extremely sharp pointed once fashionable (?) in shoes.
Needleman—a man who sews; a tailor, furrier, etc.
Neglige—easy and informal dress.
Neglige shirt—a s. with plain or plaited front, but not with a built-up bosom; usually of fancy materials and most worn in the summer time.
Negro cloth—a cheap, coarse homespun cloth (of tow?), of colonial days, worn by farm laborers.
Netherstocks—stockings.
Nettle-cloth—a varnisht thick cotton cloth used for belts, cap visors, etc., as a substitute for leather.
Nettle fiber—see Ramie.
New-fangled—anything which people may not yet be used to.
New mown hay—a perfume imaginativly supposed to resemble the odor of fresh cut hay.
New York surtout—a fashionable frock overcoat of 1851, having very short skirts cut straight off (horizontally) and with a prodigious collar rolling down to the waistline, liberally trimmed with wide fancy braid.
Newmarket—general term for the long, double-breasted frock overcoat (from Newmarket, Eng., a town celebrated for its racing meets), originally worn when driving or riding; a surtout.
N. G.—slang for “no good”.
Nid d’abeille—bee hive effects in weaving.
Nifty—excellence of style and appearance; up to the mark.
Niggerhead—a cloth with rough knotted or curly surface, resembling boucle and Astrakhan. See also Petersham.
Night cap—a sort of bonnet, of light material, for sleeping in—also something to help you sleep without one.
Night drawers—sleeping garments, made usually with legs and feet, commonly worn by children.
Night gown—in colonial days an undress garment worn at home, but not for sleeping; often quite elaborate; a dressing g. or jacket; sometimes worn away from home, as at the office.
Night rail—name given in colonial times to what is our present-day night robe.
Night robe—see N. shirt.
Night shirt—a long, loose gown for sleeping purposes.
Night slip—an infant’s night dress.
Night stick—a hardwood club used by policemen in riot work, but more noticeably for rapping on the corner pavement at night to keep the neighborhood from too profound slumber.
Nightie—sleeping wear.
Nightingale—a peculiar, open-sleeved bed jacket, named after the famous nurse of the Crimean war.
Nimbus—the disk or halo which “the old man” thinks encircles his head refulgently.
Nitch—see Notch.
No collar—self-explanatory; tailoring term used mostly in connection with waistcoat.
No dress—no allowance to be made; small. See Dress.
Noils—knots and short bits of wool taken from the long staple in combing; waste silk.
Noose—a sort of necktie of no great popularity.
Norfolk jacket—a sack coat or j., straight front and single-breasted, with or without a yoke, having box plaits down the fronts and back and a belt of same material; the adjustment and style of yoke, plaits, pockets, etc., varies with season, taste of wearer and maker; most worn for hunting and for outdoor sports.
Normal—hosiery and underwear term for natural undyed wool and garments thereof.
Normal—(clothing term.) See Regular.
Norwegian sock—a heavy knit wool stocking similar to golf hose; used by hunters, lumbermen, explorers, et al.
Nose guard—a solid rubber face disfigurer that must be chewed. (Football.)
Nose mask—same as N. guard.
Nose putty—an article of theatrical makeup.
Nosegay—a small bunch of fragrant flowers; broadly, a boutonniere.
Not balanced—said of a coat that does not hang or drape well; out of balance; shifted.
Not ready—a phrase that has lost tailors more customers than readymaders ever gained otherwise.
Notch—in garment making, a V or nick cut into the edge of the cut cloth, showing where it is to be joined to another piece with a corresponding notch.
Notch—(tailoring term.) See Step; also see below.
Notcht collar—the typical c. of all single-breasted sack coats and waistcoats. In body coats and overcoats the collar is separate from the lapel to which it is joined in such a manner as to leave a notch or “step”; in waistcoats a notcht c. is usually of one piece on each side without seam, but with a V notch cut therein. (Notched c.)
Nouveau riche—one who has recently become rich and who proceeds to show off, first of all by adopting flashier and costlier clothes than could previously be afforded.
Novelties—the transient styles of a season; fancies, not staple; the basis of all reduction sales or clearing sales.
Nuage—French for clouded effects (in weaving).
Nullifier—a name sometimes given to a sort of slipper better known as Romeo (qv).
Nun’s cloth—see below.
Nun’s veiling—a thin, semi-transparent, plain-woven, woolen fabric, used for mourning bands, office coats, etc.; a complete suit for a man would average say 32 ounces in weight.
Nursery cloth—general name for thick, heavy cotton cloth or blanketing, used singly or two-ply in a desperate effort to save bedding from our infant ravages; most commonly a sort of very coarse, heavy, double-faced Canton flannel, or two sheets of muslin slightly wadded and quilted, tho there are several other varieties.
Nutria—the fur of the Brazilian otter, largely used in hat manufacture and for fur garments.
O
Oak tanned—term for leather tanned with oak bark.
Ocean pearl—trade term distinguishing oyster p. (and articles thereof) from fresh water or mussel and clam shell p. from inland waters.
Odd Fellow’s coat—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.
Off color—trade term for goods not comparing with the standard of color by which bought. Compare Cloudy and Shaded.
Office—where the pay envelope comes from; otherwise useless to the average employe.
Office coat—usually an alpaca sack c., unlined, broadly, any old c. not fit to be seen on the street, but good enough to wipe pens on.
Office towel—an indurated, inelastic piece of textil fabric of dark color, used for toilet purposes.
Officer’s facings—(army) color for general officers, staff and department officers, dark blue; for officers of engineers, scarlet piped with white; signal corps, orange piped with white; ordnance, black piped with scarlet; medical corps, maroon; quartermaster’s department, buff; cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, light blue.
Oil-boiled—trade term for colors so treated as to ensure permanence.
Oil frock—a waterproof slicker-coat worn by miners, fishermen, etc.
Oil grain—same as stuft leather.
Oil test—(linen vs. cotton); a sample of cloth is boiled in water or alkali solution to remove the finishing matter, then laid on a glass plate and saturated with a heavy oil. A smaller glass plate is then placed over the sample to protect it from the air. After removing the surplus oil from the edges, the sample is examined with the light falling on it, and then with the light passing thru it. The linen fiber, owing to its thick cells with their greater resistance to light, appears transparent and resembles a slop of grease on paper. When the light passes thru it, it appears bright; and when the light falls upon it, it is dark. The reverse is the case with cotton. The air in the interior of the cotton fiber, as well as between the fibers themselves, is not displaced by the oil, and makes the cotton appear opaque; consequently when the light falls on the fiber it is bright, and when the light passes thru it it is dark.
Oilcloth—a painted and varnisht cotton fabric, largely employed, among other uses, for cap visors, belt linings, etc.
Oiled silk—a thin, plain-woven silk fabric impregnated with boiled oil and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof, used for perspiration guards, money belts, etc.
Oilers—vernacular for oilskins (qv).
Oilskin—a heavy, cotton cloth impregnated with oil and gum to render it waterproof; used for sailor’s coats, slickers, etc.; the name is also applied to such garments.
Oilskins—“slickers” (qv). Also see above.
O. K.—all right; all correct. The most popular idea of the derivation is that told of General Jackson, better known in American history as Old Hickory, who was not much at home in the art of spelling, and that he employed the letters O. K. as an endorsement of applications for office and other papers, intending them to stand for “all (orl) correct (korrect)”.
Ol clo’s man—a stoop-shouldered individual in a long frock coat, low billycock hat, wearing luxuriant whiskers and unclean fingernails.
Old beau—a fastidious old fellow of the “old school”, fond of women’s society.
Old fashioned—not of today.
Old gold—a dull, brassy, yellow color.
Old man—the head of the house who raises or reduces salaries, but who otherwise is not generally reckoned as having any special value to the business.
Old-man’s frock—a one-button cutaway f. coat, cut rather full in front.
Old silver—s. made to appear old by chemical treatment.
Old thirds—an obsolete English system of tailor’s measurements, invented by a German tailor in the early part of the 19th century.
Olive—a barrel-shaped fastening device used in connection with loops; a portion of a frog (qv); usually mohair or silk covered; worn principally on uniform overcoats.
Olivauto cloth—proprietary name for a clear-finisht worsted, 14 oz. cloth, made especially with reference to the needs of motorists; is dust proof and waterproof and of a brownish olive-drab shade.
Ombre—weaving term for blended stripes, shading off or into one another, effected by adjustment of warp and filling threads; usually applied to silks.
Omophorion—a sort of broad pallium (qv) worn by the Greek and Russian ministry.
On one’s uppers—shabby genteel.
Once-over—see Ascot, Puff, Waterfall, etc.; a method of tying same.
One-button cutaway—see Fat man’s frock.
One-button sack—see Fat man’s s.
One-way plait—prest flat from either side of the stitching; the reverse of box p.
Ongrowing collar—tailors’ term for waistcoat collars that are continued around the neck like coat collars instead of being sewed down at the shoulder and continuing merely as a band around the back of the neck. O. collars, therefore, are formed of the facing and forepart and top and undercollar parts and may have any kind of peakt or notcht lapel or rever, but are seldom made with the no-seam notch characteristic of ordinary single-breasted waistcoat collars.
O O—“own order”; in tailoring, a memorandum made by cutters who dislike a customer’s insistence upon certain details.
Ooze—suede leather.
Open-face vest—vernacular for evening dress waistcoat.
Open fly—not closed or boxt. See Fly.
Open front—a term usually applied to shirt bosoms made in two parts and joined by buttons or studs.
Open front fold—trade term for folded shirt collars where the standing band is cut away in V shape and the fold rather more so.
Open lap seam—same as Open welt s.
Open shop—the opposit of closed s. (qv); a s., factory or other establishment where workmen may be employed regardless of union or other affiliations.
Open trousers—tailors’ term for t. made for customers who stand with their legs spread apart or open, the inseam being longer than is required for closed t., which see.
Open welt seam—in tailoring, a s. resembling a plait. The two parts of the material are first sewed regularly, after which one part, which has been cut wider for the purpose, is basted over to the required size of the welt and sewed at the place of the first seam. Properly used as a finish for the side seams of trousers. See Welt s.
Open-work—trade term for drop stitch ribs or lace work designs in hosiery, etc.
Opening—tailoring term for the amount of space at throat not covered by a coat or vest, allowing display of (more or less) clean linen, betraying one’s taste in neckwear and jewelry, and, according to area, inviting bronchitis or bellyache. Compare Gorge.
Opening—the first step in the process of carding cotton; separating the matted fibers and removing foreign objects.
Opening machine—see Willowing m.
Opera cloak—a cape-like overgarment extending to the knees, having a narrow standing collar, and closed with cord and tassels, worn about 1850 over evening dress; also the Inverness overcoat (qv) is sometimes so called.
Opera glass—a binocular telescope of small size for magnifying the field of view for distant spectators; also the characteristic equipment of baldheaded front row first nighters.
Operator—trade term for machine workmen employed in clothing factories in contradistinction to journeymen tailors who do work by hand.
Operette—proprietary term for an evening dress overcoat, buttoning high at the throat, lined with white silk or satin in front and there combining some of the features of a muffler or dress shirt protector.
Opoponax—a perfume compounded from a gum resin obtained from a species of (Persian) parsnip, or in imitation thereof.
Orarian—a sort of stole worn by ministers of the Greek and Russian churches.
Orarium—same as Stole (qv).
Orby—a single-breasted walking frock coat made without a waist seam, the fore and back parts being entire; the back made without the usual sidebody parts, and having but a center seam terminating in a plain open vent at the waist. (1907.)
Ordinary—see Cotton classification.
Organzine—(1) warp silk made of two singles (qv) twisted together; thrown silk; (2) a fabric made of such silk.
Orris root—good thing for the linen chest, imparting to the contents thereof a delicate violet-like fragrance.
Orthopedic—name applied to a particular shape of last, generally broad-toed, in outline as near as possible to that of the natural foot.
Osnaburg—(1) coarse cotton shirtings, both plain colored and in small two-color checks, only slightly finisht after weaving, mostly produced in the southern states; (2) originally a coarse variety of linen cloth imported from Osnabruck, Prussia (whence name); used in colonial days for shirts, breeches, jackets, etc.
Ostrich feathers—in men’s wear used for uniform hats, regalia, etc.
Otter—an amphibious animal of various species, yielding a pelt valuable in the manufacture of fur garments; very like seal in texture.
Ottoman—a stout, lustrous silk fabric, of heavier cord than faille.
Ounce—in the trade the thickness or heaviness of cloths are designated by the number of ounces in one yard, as 10 oz., 16 oz., 24 oz., etc.
Out breast—tailor’s abbreviation for outside breast pocket.
Out breast pocket—see Outside b. p.
Outside breast pocket—trade term for the regular b. p. of coats and overcoats, customarily placed on the left side only, and so designated to distinguish from inside b. p.
Outer leaf—see Leaf.
Out of date—old-fashioned; old fogeyish.
Out seam—see Prix s.
Outer garments—broadly, any and all garments except those worn next the skin; more correctly a suit of clothes, overcoats, capes, and the like.
Outer sole—the s. leather in the bottom of shoe coming next to the ground.
Outre—not conforming to conventional usage or fashion; bizarre; extravagant; showy; freakish.
Outing cloth—a cotton fabric of various uses, woven similarly to gingham, but of softer, coarser yarns and well napt on both sides; also called o. flannel, tennis flannel, flannelette, domett, guinea cloth, etc.
Outing flannel—see O. cloth.
Outing shoe—a canvas s. for summer wear.
Outing suit—a light-weight summer or vacation suit, usually of flannel.
Outlet—in tailoring, an allowance made in cutting up cloth (not shown on the paper pattern), for seams, vents, the try-on fitting, alterations, etc.
Outside back—tailoring term for the back or outer lining of the back part of a vest.
Outside flap—a sewed-on f. outside of and over the pocket. Compare In-and-out f.
Outside shop—in clothes making a shop, usually not on the manufacturer’s premises but away or “outside”, where the help is hired by the contractor, who is practically owner of the shop, altho he may contract to do no work for any but the one concern. See Inside s.
Ovalesque—proprietary name for a dress shirt bosom of unusually large proportion and of oval shape, claimed not to bulge or break when worn.
Over-erect—so straight (sic) as to incline backward.
Over-shirt—an outer or top s.; a working s.
Over-shoulder measure—in tailoring, a measure taken from front of arm scye over the shoulder to center of back at the scye depth (qv).
Oversleeve—a loose fitting, separate s. of almost any material, worn by bookkeepers, clerks, et al., to protect shirt or coat sleeves.
Overalls—loose fitting over-trousers of duck, denim, etc., for working wear.
Overcasting—see Serging and Whipstitch.
Overcheck—a term in weaving for patterns showing one check of different form or color superimposed upon another.
Overcoat—a coat worn over one’s other coat; a top coat; a greatcoat.
Overcoating—any fabric woven specially for overcoats, as covert, kersey, melton, frieze, montagnac, elysian, beaver, vicuna, whipcord, cheviot, chinchilla, Shetland, etc., (qv).
Overedge stitch—an overcasting or selvaging s. performed by machine.
Overcoats—(army) see Army officer’s o.; (navy), see Naval officer’s o. and Naval o.; (revenue service) see Revenue service o.; (marine corps) see Marine corps o.
Overgaiter—a close-fitting covering for ankle and leg, spreading out and embracing the instep, usually of cloth or leather; also called spatterdash and spats.
Overgarment—any outer garment or wrap.
Overplaid—a term in weaving indicating a light plaid over a heavier and smaller underplaid or check, or vice versa; an effect of color disposition.
Oversack—a large, loosely fitting overcoat of the sack or box variety; an ulster (qv).
Overseam—see Round s.
Overshoe—a shoe worn over other shoes, usually of rubber, of various shapes and styles. See also Arctics.
Overworked edges—tailoring term for edges held in too much and forced by the stay tape.
Own goods—cloth brought to a tailor, shirtmaker, etc., to be made up.
Oxford—see O. mixture, O. shirting, etc.
Oxford bag—an article of hand luggage of considerable capacity, usually with a rounding or sloping top.
Oxford cap—see Mortarboard.
Oxford mixture—in woolen cloth weaving an effect produced by combining two threads of black and white or gray into one yarn in the spinning process, or by blending two shades of raw wool in the carding process, the finisht effect being a cloth of black or dark steel ground, lightly sprinkled or mixt with white. In the lighter shadings frequently called “Cambridge mixture”.
Oxford shirting—a soft, plain-woven cotton fabric having loom-produced checks, stripes, or figures.
Oxford tie—a low shoe, laced and tied at the instep, and by extension any low shoe, as “buttoned oxfords”.