Special full dress cap—(marine corps) for leader of the band, of blue cloth, same pattern and style as f. d. cap of officers of the line. For second leader and musicians, of scarlet cloth, same model as f. d. cap of other enlisted men.
Special full dress coat—(navy) for officers: a full-buttoned, double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth, lined with white silk serge, waist descending to top of the hip bone, the skirts commencing at about one-fourth of the circumference from the middle of the front edge and descending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee with two large navy buttons on the waist behind and one near the bottom of each fold or plait; two rows of large navy buttons on the breast, 9 each; standing collar with V opening; the collar and cuffs covered with gold lace, braid, bands of colored cloth, etc., as prescribed in regulations according to rank of officer, and with appropriate epaulets, etc.; (marine corps) for leader of the band, a sack c. of scarlet cloth made after the same pattern as prescribed for first lieutenant marine corps, except no opening for sword; the front edges, around bottom, vents and sleeves trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid, backed with ⅛ in. gold tracing braid; collar similarly trimmed; gold tubular braiding across breast in the same manner as prescribed for first lieutenant, with gold crochet buttons and olives; seams between side body and backpart trimmed with 2 rows of gold tubular braid; other details as prescribed. For second leader of band, the same, except that the cuffs are trimmed with black mohair braid. For musicians of band, a fly-front sack c. of scarlet cloth, cut half close, standing collar of black broadcloth piped with white, pointed cuffs ditto, shoulder straps ditto; edges, bottom and vents trimmed with 1 in. black mohair braid backt with ⅛ in. black mohair tracing braid, side body seams trimmed with black mohair tubular braid; fronts trimmed with black mohair tubular braid, 5 across, terminating in frogs, olives, etc.; otherwise as prescribed.
Special full dress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. gold lace with a 3–16 in. scarlet silk stripe thru center; for staff officers, the same without scarlet stripe; for line officers, of sky-blue cloth, outseams trimmed with 1½ in. gold lace with edges of scarlet cloth welted ¼ in.; for leader of band, of dark blue cloth, the same as prescribed for staff officers, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid. For second leader and musicians, the same except a 1 in. stripe of scarlet cloth down outer seams.
Special patrolman’s uniform—(New York) a double-breasted sack coat of gray cloth reaching halfway to knee, buttoning close to throat with 5 buttons, no outside pockets. Trousers to match with a red welt on outer seam. Overcoat, of same color, double-breasted sack style, reaching 3 inches below knee, closing with 6 buttons (2 rows), with rolling collar. Cap, navy pattern of same color. In summer, uniform may be of gray flannel.
Special sale—an advertising makeshift when goods move slowly or times are dull.
Special uniforms—thruout the military and naval services of the United States, whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of these services are required to appear together in uniform, as prescribed under designations Uniform A, Uniform B, and Uniform C, which see.
Specialty mark—(navy) an embroidered device forming a part of the rating badge (qv), indicating occupation of the wearer, as master at arms, boatswains mates, blacksmiths, yeomen, printers, etc.
Specie bag—a medium-sized strong leather hand b., carried by bank messengers.
Spectacle case—a c. for holding and protecting spectacles when not in use. See Eyeglass holder.
Spectacles—a device for aiding eyesight—a pair of lenses attacht to a metal bridge and hinged bows, the latter usually curved to hook around the ears, tho formerly made to clasp the temples; the lenses sometimes enclosed in a frame or rim.
Spence cotton—a variety of c. grown in India, having a strong, wiry staple of 1 to 1¼ inches in length, the “trees” producing it frequently attaining a hight of 6 to 7 feet.
Spencer—a short, scant, top coat not covering the undercoat, invented by Lord Spencer, about 1792, on a bet that he could set a fashion, wholly meaningless and unnecessary, that would be the vogue within six months. He then took shears and amputated the tails of the coat he was wearing and appeared in it on the street. Being a leader of fashion, the idiosyncrasy spread within a week and in a few months reached America.
Spent tan—roughly ground tanbark from which the tannic acid has been extracted by infusion.
Spick-and-span—new, fresh, clean, tidy; showing off one’s glad rags.
Spiff—clerk’s slang for premium or bonus.
Spinage—long whiskers.
Spindle—(1) a slender rod in a spinning wheel carrying thread which is to be twisted and wound on bobbins; (2) a rod used in hand spinning on which is wound the thread from the distaff.
Spinning—the process of drawing out and spinning textil fibers into thread, either by hand or machinery; a process in woolen manufacture by which the drawn fleece or yarn is twisted into yarns or threads of required thickness, technically known as “counts”, according to the fabrics for which intended. As spun, the yarn is wound onto large bobbins for warp or on to smaller spools for weft. Practically the same for other fibers. See Encyclopedia.
Spinning jenny—see Jenny.
Spinning mule—see Mule.
Spitalfields—a district of London, England, noted specially for its silk weaving industries; the name is also applied to silk goods therefrom, as a mark of quality.
Spladder dashers—one of the old forms of “spatterdash” (qv).
Splay-footed—toes turning outwardly.
Spliced—generally, a makeshift extension. See Crotch piece, Wheel piece, etc.
Spliced heel—trade term for hosiery with the heel made much heavier than the body of the stocking, usually spoken as s. heels-and-toes. See Double sole.
Split falls—same as Narrow f.
Split foot—trade term for stockings whereof the underfoot part is knitted separately from the upper or leg part, altho these may be seamlessly joined with practically the same motion or reciprocal interchange of loops, or otherwise. See English f.
Split patterns (to)—tailoring term for the operation of first drafting a pattern according to the subject’s actual measurements, then splitting it open from top to bottom, and inserting an allowance for a superfluous amount of goods for ease and style, a new pattern being usually drafted from the split one.
Split straw—(1) hat s. split into narrow strips; (2) hats of such straw (usually “yacht” shapes).
Split tree—a shoe t. divided longitudinally and expanding when placed in position.
Splits—weaving term for cloths woven with a center selvaged motion, so that when the piece is taken from the loom the wide fabric can be split into two or more practically perfect cloths; in weaving designated one s., two s., etc.
Sponge—general term for (1) the process of extra-shrinking fabrics preparatory to manufacturing into garments; see Shrink; (2) the act of lightly cleaning a slightly soiled garment with a damp sponge before pressing it.
Sponge—a fibrous and porous substance from the sea-depths, the framework of a marine animal.
Sponge bag—a light rubber or waterproof fabric b. for use of travelers, designed to hold bathing sponges.
Sponge silk—a soft, porous, knitted fabric of low grade spun silk, used for underwear, draperies, polishing cloths, etc.
Sponging—see Sponge.
Spongy—trade term for cloths, such as raincoatings, which have lost their firmness and finish and have become open, soft or porous; also applied to cloths imperfectly fulled or finisht.
Sporran—a leather or fur purse or pouch worn in front of the kilt by Highlanders in clan dress.
Sporting tailor—one who makes a specialty of, and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of hunting, golf, polo, motoring garments and clothes for “sporting” wear generally.
Sportsman’s knife—a pocket k. having numerous conveniences in the way of blades, etc., especially a k. with an extra long blade for skinning hides, etc.
Spot delivery—immediately.
Spread front folder—a folded shirt collar, the ends of which are broadly rounded or cut away.
Spring—a belled or flaring effect.
Spring bottom trousers—same as ordinary t. except that the bottoms flare out over the foot.
Spring buckle—a buckling device consisting of two pronged buckles connected by coiled wire springs, used on some trousers, overalls, suspenders, etc.
Spring button—a “snap” or “clasp” fastening.
Spring heels—term for shoes made without h. and worn by boys and children, the outer sole being sprung outward slightly at the heel and a small wedge of leather inserted between the outer sole and the innersole at the heel of the shoe before it is finally attacht by nailing.
Spring mink—m. caught in the spring, when the fur begins to change—naturally of quality inferior to winter-caught m.
Spring needle—term given to underwear knitted on round frames by means of a peculiar kind of n. so that the fabric is particularly elastic or springy.
Spring tree—see Extension t.
Spring weight—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 15 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 22 ounces are so called. Compare Winter w., Summer w., Fall w., Tropical w.
Sprinting pants—see Athletic p.
Sprinting shoes—see Running s.
Spruce—kind o’ nice; dapper.
Spun silk—trade term for (1) floss, damaged cocoons, husks, waste, etc.; (2) s. yarns, fabrics, etc., from waste s. and damaged cocoons.
Spun silver—s. thread for weaving, especially a fiber thread covered with a s. filament.
Spunk seed—see Wig.
Spur—a heel-thing worn by men-brutes to jab into horses.
Spy glass—a small telescope for ship or field use.
Squam hat—a round h. of oiled waterproof material, made with a stiff crown and stiff rim, with ear tabs buttoning under the chin, worn by fishermen, seamen, etc. Compare Cape Ann h.
Square—see Tailor’s s.
Square shouldered—shoulders high and set well back.
Square-toe—a shoe made somewhat square at the t. as compared with a round or oval shape.
Square-toes—an old-fashioned, punctilious person.
Squaring—in hat making, the act of coating or saturating the inside of the crown with a solution of shellac for the purpose of hardening.
Squash hat—a low crowned soft felt h.
Squirrel—a small tree-living animal, the fur of which is highly prized for winter garments.
Squirt—dude.
Stable cap—a round c. with a visor, usually of material to match the groom’s suit, as whipcord, corduroy.
Stable suit—groom’s sack s. of whipcord. See Livery undress.
Stall—see Finger cot.
Stamin—a variety of linsey woolsey (obsolete).
Stampt gloves—die cut. Compare Table cut. (Stamped-g.)
Stand-and-fall collar—same as standing Prussian c.
Stand-up—same thing.
Stander—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.
Standing band—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See Falling b.
Standing Prussian collar—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over; also called Russian c.
Stanley helmet—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing a circulation of air.
Staple—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton, etc.
Staples—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales. Compare Fancies and Novelties.
Start-up—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.
Station coat—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear, made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is unlined.
Stay tape—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for reinforcing edges, seams, etc.
Stays—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the foot.
Stays—corsets.
Steam—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.
Steam shrunk—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).
Steamer rug—see Rug.
Steamer trunk—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom berth.
Steinkirk—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.
Stem-winder—a keyless watch.
Step—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or waistcoat collar.
Step-back—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches or more wide.
Stephanotis—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of the jasmin family.
Sterling—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.
Sticharion—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the similar garment worn by deacons.
Stick-pin—same as Scarf p.
Stick-up collar—British for a standing shirt c.
Stick-up-turned down—British for the highband, folded or double shirt collar.
Sticking plaster—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists and other sports.
Stiff front—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.
Stiffening—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.
Stiletto beard—a long, sharp imperial (qv).
Stint rule—see Task system.
Stirrup hose—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or girdle.
Stitches—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s., back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s., chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s., running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.
Stoat—see Stoating.
Stoating—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is barely visible.
Stock—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk, wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring attacht to keep it in place when worn.
Stock—the merchandise in store for sale.
Stock boy—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other houses one with similar duties and proclivities.
Stock covers—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to be thrown over the stock at night.
Stock number—see Lot n.
Stock-room—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.
Stock whip—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash with snapper.
Stockinet—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually white, from which livery breeches are made.
Stocking—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg, close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk, especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or half hose.
Stocking frame—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting machine.
Stocking saver—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear inside of shoes.
Stocking yarn—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods, mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.
Stockinger—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)
Stockingless—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon. “Sockless” Jerry Simpson?
Stogy—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)
Stogy—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.
Stole—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc. At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.
Stone marten—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.
Stonine—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.
Stoop shouldered—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.
Store—a place where you buy things.
Store clothes—readymade; not homemade.
Storm boot—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of stout leather, commonly waterprooft.
Storm coat—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.
Storm collar—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats; (2) a deep ulster c.
Storm hat—a sou’wester.
Storm hood—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.
Storm-proof—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes; of rainproof overcoatings, etc.
Storm serge—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.
Storm tabs—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.
Stormer—an ulster (qv).
Stote—see Stoat.
Stouts—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.
Stove-pipe—a silk hat.
Straight—one of the old names for kersey (qv).
Straight box—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and full backs without center seams.
Straight collar—trade term for coat collars made with a straight under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck closely and neatly.
Straight front sack—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom corners, but hanging straight down.
Straight front single-breasted frock—same as s. b. frock, and s. b. “Prince Albert.”
Straight jacket—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane asylums.
Straight lace—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals, distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.
Straight stander—a plain, standing shirt collar.
Straightening—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the edges of coats after being underprest.
Strand—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.
Strap—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline seam therewith.
Strap ends—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the boot (or shoe).
Strap measure—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part is joined.
Strap seam—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.
Strapt trousers—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing beneath arch of shoe. (Strapped.)
Straw—cattle feed used in making summer hats.
Straw cotton—c. thread especially prepared for sewing straw, as in hat making.
Straw hat—worn only from June 1st to September 1st. Specially designated as alpine, boater, mackinaw, milan, panama, sennit, yacht, etc., which see.
Straw needle—a long, slender n. used in straw hat making.
Strawberry blonde—red haired.
Street covert—a top coat.
Street gloves—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.
Street railway conductor’s uniform—varies with different roads and in different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat double-breasted in winter and single-breasted in summer, with an extra number of pockets very strongly made and re-enforced with cloth around the openings, which are slasht or without flaps, brass buttons; blue cloth cap with numbered badge.
Strength test—(silk thread) pure dye silk thread running 800 hundred yards to the ounce should be about 8 pounds strength; 1000 yards to ounce breaking at 6 to 6½ pounds, etc.
Strength tester—any machine or device for testing the strength of fibers, yarns, fabrics, etc.
Stretch—tailoring term signifying joining a smaller to a larger part; stretching an edge to more than its cut dimension, etc., for purposes of shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Hold in.
Stretch block—a wooden or metal device, a sort of last operated by a screw, used by hatters to stretch hats to larger sizes.
Stretcher—same as Litter (qv).
Stretching—a process in hat manufacture, following stiffening (qv) and preceding blocking (qv).
Stride—the fork or crotch seam of trousers.
Striking bag—same as punching b.
Striking bag gloves—see Punching b. g.
String out—said of silk fabrics the warp and weft of which, in wear, slip or slide aside or pull, leaving unsightly spots.
Stripes—see Trousers s.
Stripes—cant for prison clothes (qv).
Stripy—trade term for harsh, inelastic, non-curly wool fleece, used only for inferior goods.
Stroke coat—same as golf coat, tho a more appropriate name.
Strop—see Razor s.
Stubbed—shortened, abbreviated. (Tailoring.)
Stubbed back—tailoring term for a frock coat having a back which is cut across at the waist line and having the plaited part of the skirt (which may be closed or open-lapt) sewed thereto. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt, etc.
Stubble—sign that a shave is needed.
Stud holes—small round eyelets workt into a shirt bosom.
Student cap—same as mortarboard or Oxford c. (qv).
Studs—shirt bosom jewelry.
Stuft leather—leather filled with oil or other greasy liquid for a specific purpose, as waterproofing.
Stump—a pointed roll of paper, felt or chamois used by artists in blending drawings and by actors in blending the grease paints used in making up.
Stumpt—said of frock coat back parts that are not continuous but are cut across at the waist line and then continued therefrom in the skirts. (Stumped.)
Style—a will o’ the wisp that men chase quite as assiduously as women; the touch of la mode that wanes ere it is recognized; a something as insubstantial as the favor of rulers, as light as the air, as protean as a hurricane, and fickle as a woman who knows her beauty and how to use it; a leading pursuit of the frivolous and wealthy and a Godsend to merchants and manufacturers.
Style-book—a pictorial eulogy of the sartorial abilities of the publishers, which, if deficient, can be glost over by a clever writer and a cleverer artist.
Styler—one who designs or advises as to styles, patterns, etc., for manufacturers of articles of apparel.
Stylish—in the current mode; not last season’s; popular; a common adjectiv in Grand street.
Stylist—see Styler.
Styptic pencil—an antiseptic healer of cuts, popular with self-shavers. Also called S. stick.
Sub—affectionate for substitute, an extra or temporary clerk.
Subbing—helping out or taking another clerk’s place temporarily; doing other than one’s regular work.
Subfusk—dusky or dull of hue; of a dark but indefinable color.
Substitute—see Sub.
Substitute—something otherwise than as ordered.
Substitution—an ineradicable evil.
Suede—glove leather from which the face cuticle has been removed by shaving and pumicing, the flesh or inner side of the skin forming the outside of a glove and having a soft, velvety or ooze finish; “undrest kid”.
Sugar loaf—a high, silk hat, narrowing toward the top.
Suint—see Yolk.
Suit—(1) coat, waistcoat and trousers; (2) undershirt and drawers; (3) pajama blouse and trousers; (4) bathing trunks and shirt, etc.
Suit bag—a style of hand luggage of great capacity, shaped somewhat like a s. case, but opening from a common center-hinge into two equal parts.
Suit case—a long, flat, rectangular traveling bag or portmanteau, usually of leather, of such size that coats, trousers, etc., may be carried therein with the least amount of folding.
Suit case umbrella—an u. with a folding rod or a detachable handle, effecting a reduction in length, enabling the u. to be carried inside the case.
Suit club—an association of deluded persons who agree to pay into a common fund (usually held by the organizer of the club, who conducts all its affairs, more or less to his own or only benefit), a fixt sum per week. A drawing by lot determins who shall get his suit that week, after which, ordinarily, he pays no further dues; and so on until the last man gets his suit, of course by paying more than anyone else, altho he may believe that he is paying no more than the clothes are worth, by reason of specious arguments about quantity-buying advanced by the plausible organizer of the club, the inducement to all the members being the element of chance, or rather prospect of being among the earliest and least taxt buyers. Of course, there are occasionally formed clubs where all members pay the same amount from first to last, there being no pecuniary inducement beyond the easy payment plan and the possibility of being an early winner. The first form of s. c. has repeatedly been declared illegal by the courts but is hard to suppress, despite the exemplary punishment meted out to the offenders.
Suit-coat—tailor’s term for distinguishing a garment so markt as part of a suit order, and not a complete order in itself.
Suit of hair—a head of hair. (Southern colloquialism.)
Suit-pants—see S.-coat.
Suit-vest—see S.-coat.
Sulfuric acid test—(cotton vs. linen). After having been freed from the finishing materials the sample of cloth is treated for one or two minutes in concentrated English sulfuric-acid, then rinsed well in water, and dried between blotting-papers. Cotton is completely dissolved in this treatment; linen remains unaffected. This test is suitable for colored goods, and by weighing the samples before and after treatment the quantity of each material can be approximated.
Sumac—any shrub or tree of the genus rhus; the bark thereof used in tanning.
Summer garters—g. specially for wear with knee drawers, having no metal parts to come in corrosiv contact with moist flesh.
Summer undress—(marine corps, etc.), see Undress, White dress, Field dress, et var.
Summer weight—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 14 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Fall w., Tropical w.
Sun test—see Exposure t.
Sun umbrella—an u. usually of cotton material, of tan or buff color outside and with a green or blue inside, the lining color being printed.
Sunday-go-to-meeting-clothes—the best one has.
Sunshade—a sun umbrella (qv).
Sunshade hat—a collapsible h. of light-weight cotton material having a very long and wide brim stretcht on wire; used by amateur fishermen.
Super—see Wool.
Superfine—the finest grade of dress broadcloths.
Superlative measures—a system of tailors’ measurements embracing features of both long and short measure systems, with which, for comparison, the former may be considered the allopathic, the latter homeopathic, and the superlative eclectic schools of clothes-prescribing.
Supporter—(1) a contrivance for holding up some portion of one’s apparel, as garters, braces, etc.; (2) a surgical or hygienic appliance for holding in place or assisting localized physical weaknesses, as a laced waistband with an underpart reaching thru the crotch from front to back to support the parts.
Suppression—tailoring term indicating close-shaping of the waist, as of a coat.
Surah—a soft, fine twilled, silk fabric, usually plain dyed.
Surcharged—weighted; loaded in dyeing and finishing.
Surcoat—(1) a long c. or cassock worn over a vest or undercoat; (2) a loose robe worn over armor, in the middle ages.
Surgeon’s gown—a long, plain g., completely enveloping the figure, closing at the throat, with draw strings or elastics in the cuffs, with or without hood; usually of white cotton material.
Surgeon’s plaster—see Sticking p.
Surplice—a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in choir and by priests in the administration of the sacraments. Also called cotta.
Surtout—an overcoat made in the style of a frock coat; a Newmarket (qv).
Surveyor’s boot—see Prospector’s b.
Suspender button—one of the petty annoyances of men living in single unblessedness.
Suspenders—devices for keeping one’s trousers neatly and modestly in place.
Suspensory—an arrangement of straps and bag to sustain the scrotum.
Swaddling clothes—known since Moses’ time, at least.
Swallowtail—see Evening dress.
Swanga-buckra—a negro epithet for a well-drest white man.
Swap—when a prospectiv customer does not purchase he is said to have given the salesman a “swap”; derivation of term unknown.
Swathling clothes—see Swaddling c.
Swayback—meaning that a man’s attitude tries to imitate Hogarth’s line of beauty.
Sweat lining—in hats and caps usually a lining band of soft leather, occasionally patent leather, or other material.
Sweat shop—in garment making a shop not owned by the manufacturer but by a contractor, who pays low wages; a home shop where various members of the family are employed; popularly a shop where disease and contagion are supposed to be imminent if not actually existent, and where the operators are virtual slaves for the sake of a pittance to buy bread.
Sweatband—see s. lining.
Sweater—a tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or shirt, of various styles, as turtle neck s., coat s., V neck s., etc.
Sweating—a putrefactiv process in leather preparation for the purpose of loosening hairs.
Sweating system—see Sweat shop.
Swedish gloves—see Suede.
Sweet bags—ornamental bags or pouches of perfume or aromatic substances variously used by the beaux and belles of the romantic past.
Swell—a supposedly ultra-fashionable individual.
Swelled seam—(tailoring) the parts to be joined are basted face to face along an outlet; this is sewed with a regular or plain s. (qv) at the usual distance from the edge of the top piece, which is then turned and stitcht again at the required distance from the first s. underneath and then very lightly prest, giving the raised or swelled effect, which is helpt by absence of any stitching holding the cloth down at the turn of the s. Also called “raised s.” and “lap s.”; often mistakenly called “welt s.” (qv).
Swimming suits—same as bathing s.
Switch—a riding whip.
Swivel weaving—in weaving, a process of achieving embroidered-like effects on cloth, being effected by small auxiliary shuttles of colored threads.
Swop—an unconsummated sale (retail slang).
Sword belt—a leather or canvas b. worn around the waist, supporting a sword by straps.
Sword cane—a hollow walking stick with detachable handle, to which is affixt a s. or dagger.
Sword knot—(navy) for officers, a strip of gold lace 24 inches long, doubled, with a gold slide and surmounted at the end with a large gold bullion tassel.
Symmetricals—bits of padding used by stage Venuses and Adonises.
System—a method of tailoring instruction for cutters, or learners; a crank method for achieving misfits.
Syndicate shop—name given to any one of a chain of stores controlled from an executiv center.
$—the idol of trade.
T
Tab—to keep tally or count.
Tab collar—(1) a linen wing or piccadilly shirt c.; (2) any standing shirt c. with sewed-on tabs thru which the scarf or tie is slipt and held in place.
Tabard—a sleeveless or short-sleeved outergarment worn by knights over their armor, commonly embroidered with the arms of the wearer; the official costume of a herald or pursuivant.
Table—the upper part or flat face of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.
Table cut—trade term for gloves cut by hand, not stampt out from a pattern or die, ensuring a better fitting glove.
Tabs—small flaps on shirt collars for holding scarf in place.
Tack—(1) the narrowest part of the back of a frock coat; (2) that part where the skirts are joined; (3) the top of a vent.
Tack stay—in tailoring a slip of interlining material used in pocket seams, etc., at the place where a tack (qv) is made, and for its support or strength.
Tacking—in shoemaking the process of placing the vamp or upper on the last and pulling it over and tacking it onto the leather innersole on the bottom of the last; also called “pulling over”.
Taffeta—a light-weight, thin, plain-woven, glossy silk fabric, finisht in a variety of ways: as plain dyed, changeable, warp-printed, brocaded, etc.
Taffeta flannel—a plain woven, light-weight wool material, with stripes, plaids and checks, effected by colored threads in warp and filling, coat fronts and said to be nearly unshrinkable; used chiefly for outing shirts, pajamas, etc.
Taffeta weave—see Plain w.
Taffy—a name once given to a watered variety of taffeta silk.
Taffy—blarney; soft palaver.
Tag lock—a tangled l., as of wool on unshorn sheep.
Taglioni—a style of overcoat fashionable in the 50’s.
Tahiti pearl—trade name for a very dark, nearly black, p. shell (and articles thereof) from Tahiti.
Tail—a coarser grade of wool than “breach”; also called cow-tail.
Tail-coat—familiar term for any skirted c., but especially for evening dress and cutaway frock coats.
Tailor—generally, any one in the business of making clothes; specifically, (1) a shopkeeper who makes clothes to order and to measure; (2) any workmen employed in the making of clothes, whether journeyman t., presser, operator, bushelman, etc.
Tailor-to-the-trade—a clothing manufacturer who makes clothes to order for agents or other tailors; largely a mail order business; often a concern doing business under two to four or more names, so that customers lost by one may be sold again (note double entendre) under another name; in such cases usually located on a corner of two streets and, if possible, in a named building, that several different real addresses may be used.
Tailor’s block—a sort of stool on which the customer being measured poses for the admiration of other waiting customers.
Tailor’s braid—any b. of silk or mohair, with a flat or corded edge, used for binding or facing garments, etc.
Tailor’s cramp—a cramp in the muscles of the thumb and fingers, common among tailors and other needle workers.
Tailor’s goose—a smoothing iron. See Goose.
Tailor’s muscle—the sartorius, a long, narrow muscle of the thigh, that aids in flexing the knee, the longest muscle in the body; so called from its use in crossing the legs, as with tailors.
Tailor’s silk thread sizes—see Appendix.
Tailor’s spasm—a nervous affection of the hand common to needleworkers.
Tailor’s square—an L shaped measuring and drafting implement, markt in inches and in fractional computations.
Tailor’s tack—a strong, ornamental finish at the ends of pockets, vents, etc. See Crow’s-foot and Bar tack.
Tailor’s trimmings—trade term for linings, buttons, braids, thread and all other “notions” required by tailors.
Tailor’s twist—the strong silk thread used in garment making.
Tailorage—the product or effect of the tailor’s art: as “a great parade of tailorage.”
Tailoring indicator—a machine for ascertaining with exactness all manner of measurements, proportions, disproportions, hight, weight, position, etc., of the customer.
Tailorize—to clothe or fit as a tailor does.
Tailoroid—a gummy preparation in stick form intended for use on edges that are to be felled for the purpose of preventing fraying and blistering and to ensure smoothness, firmness and flexibility of trousers and coat bottom hems, coat collars, etc. (Proprietary.)
Taleth—a praying shawl of white stuff, bordered with blue, worn by Jews at their devotions.
Take-in—to make narrower, shorter, snugger. (Tailoring, etc.)
Talisman—see Amulet.
Tall hat—slang for silk h.
Talma—a long cape or cloak, sometimes hooded, worn in first half of 19th century; named after Francois Joseph Talma, a French tragedian.
Tam o’ Shanter—a broad, flat, knit woolen cap with a tassel in the center (Scotch).
Tampico—Istle (qv).
Tan—to convert hides and skins into leather by chemical treatment.
Tan bark—any bark, as sumac, oak, hemlock, chestnut, etc., containing tannic acid in sufficient quantity to be useful in tanning leather.
Tan liquor—(1) an infusion of tan bark in water; (2) any astringent liquor used in making leather.
Tan pickle—same as T. liquor.
Tan yard—a tannery (qv).
Tannery—a place where hides and skins are tanned and made into leather.
Tap sole—a half s. shaped like a slip s., but nailed or attacht to the outside of a boot or shoe and reaching only to the arch, coming next to the ground; not a whole s. See Slip s. Also called Napoleon s.
Tapaderos—among Mexicans a leather covering for the protection of the feet.
Tape line—an inch measure. See next.
Tape measure—an article, usually of fabric, printed in inches and fractions thereof, commonly 60 inches long and half an inch wide, used by tailors, clothiers, et al., in taking measurements.
Taped seam—in tailoring a strong s. used in making garments from insubstantial or easily frayed fabrics, specifically a strip of tape laid under a s. and stitcht to same on both sides. Compare Silesia s.
Tar—a boy’s sailor cap.
Tarboosh—a red cap with tassel of dark colored silk, and sometimes forming the inner part of the turban, worn by men in Moslem countries.
Tarlatan—of interest to men chiefly when worn by coryphees of the ballet, or when employed to keep off mosquitoes at night.
Tartan—a Scotch plaid.
Task system—a peculiar Jewish s. of garment making. A “task” is so many garments to a day’s work for a “team” or “set”, usually 3 to 5 people. This quota must be finisht and wages are reckoned upon it. If but five tasks, for example, are finisht in six days, the team workers get but five days’ pay; per contra, if they can do seven tasks in six days, they get seven days’ pay. The task s. is really piece work and is perhaps the most ingenious and effectiv engine or over-exertion known to modern industry.
Tattersall—general trade name for loud or horsey patterns in heavy woolen vestings; the name from the famous London horse market.
Tatterdemalion—a raggedy one.
Tattoo—to decorate the human epidermis with designs pricked in with indelible dyes.
Tawing—a process in leather dressing in which the gelatin of the fibers is combined with certain mineral salts.
Tea basket—a sort of folding hamper with fittings for coaching party lunches, etc.
Team process—see T. work.
Team work—tailoring term, meaning practically the same as “Section w.” (qv), but given to a lesser number or smaller team of operators to make and finish and consequently costing a trifle more to execute. Employed most generally in cheap tailoring, medium grade readymade, etc.
Tear drops—small pear-shaped side whiskers.
Teasel—a machine or contrivance for dressing cloth.
Teasel cloth—see Flannelet.
Teaser—a machine having rollers of various sizes studded with pins which open the wool and intermix or blend it before carding or combing and spinning.
Teck—a readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf.
Teddy bear—another fad in children’s clothing of a par in sanity with Fauntleroy, Buster Brown, Brownie, Greenaway, and other eruptions.
Teething ring—a large r. of rubber, ivory, pearl, etc., worn attacht to the wrist by a blue ribbon from the age of 5 or 6 months up.
Teetsook—a saddle-bag made of buffalo hide, from which the hair has been removed; in use on the plains.
Telegraph messenger’s uniform—(Western Union): double-breasted blouse with one outside (breast) pocket and Prussian collar, red cord trimming, trousers to match; (Postal): single-breasted blouse, white cord trimming.
Telescope—an article of hand luggage of two parts, each shaped like boxes without covers, one sliding or telescoping into the other and held together by straps; usually canvas-covered with leather trimmings.
Telescope hat—a flat topt, soft felt h., not creast in the middle like a fedora h., but with a gutter all around the top of the crown.
Tennis flannel—see Outing cloth; also Flannel.
Tennis hat—a light felt h. of soft texture, usually of light colors, worn in outdoor sports.
Tennis robe—a sort of dressing gown for wear between dressing room and court or while resting, usually of flannel or other light material.
Tennis shoe—a low s. of soft leather or canvas, having rubber soles and low or no heels.
Tennis ulster—same as t. robe (qv) but fashioned especially like an overcoat or u. and always made of light-weight cloth or flannel.
Tenterhook willey—see Mixing picker.
Tentering—the process of stretching fabrics, during the operation of finishing, so that they may dry evenly and of a specified width.
Territory—wool classification term. See Wool.
Terry—a pile fabric in which the loops are uncut; when of cotton or linen, largely used for bath robes, bath towels, etc.
Terry velvet—v. with the pile uncut.
Test—any means or method of determining quality, strength, etc., of any fabric or textil material, dye, etc. See Cotton t., Linen t., Wool t., etc.
Testimonials—voluntary letters written by people who want to see their names in print; sometimes written on request.
Tete de negre—textil term for “niggerhead” effects.
Teufelsdroeckh—the Herr Professor who enunciated a great theory of clothes. Read (and enjoy) Sartor Resartus.
Textil—(a) of or pertaining to weaving or woven fabrics; (n) a woven fabric or material suitable for weaving. (Textile.)
Textil silk—see Artificial s.
Textil soap—general term for s. used for (1) scouring raw wool; (2) scouring yarns, and (3) scouring and fulling of cloth; of different composition, according to the use intended.
Texture—the disposition, arrangement, character or quality presented by the threads, filaments or other components of a woven fabric; as loose t., firm t., coarse t., etc.; or in other words, a trade term meaning size and number of threads per inch in a fabric.
Thatch—unkempt hair; unshaved face growth.
Thermos bottle—a device consisting of a glass bottle contained within a vacuum enclosed by another bottle encased in metal, and suitably sealed when in use, its peculiar properties being that boiling hot liquids may be kept hot in the lowest temperature from 24 to 48 hours, and ice-cold liquids kept cold in tropical weather equally long, making the device of unusual value to tourists, the sick room, etc.
Thibet—a soft, smooth, compact, twill woven, woolen cloth, made of wool or cotton warp with wool filling; more elastic and softer than melton, not so nappy as cheviot, often made in imitation of unfinisht worsted, and largely adulterated with shortstaple wool or shoddy; commonly dyed black or navy blue.
Thick-set—a sort of stout velveteen or fustian used for working clothes, etc.
Thimble—a metal shield worn on one finger by tailors, seamstresses and others, in sewing, for pushing needles thru fabrics.
Thong—a slender strip of leather for fastening.
Thong stitcht—sewed with rawhide; usually employed in connection with athletic gloves, etc.
Thoraki—a peculiar sort of sack-like bloomer trousers, usually of blue cotton, very voluminous at bottom, the legs seemingly protruding thru the corners, worn by Greek peasants.
Thread-about—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-wool, etc.
Thread marks—when a chopt (cut-out) garment is delivered to a journeyman tailor or operator for making up, he first proceeds to sew thru the two parts, only one of which is markt, with white (or black) thread wherever the cutter has indicated pockets, buttons, seam lines, etc., which when split apart leave both sides (which being cut in duplicate were hitherto markt [in chalk] only on one piece) equally and more permanently markt alike by bits of thread; these bastings, of course, being removed as the garment is completed.
Threadbare—worn down to the warp; seedy.
Three balls—the arms of everybody’s uncle.
Three-cockt hat—see below.
Three cornered hat—a h. with brim turned up and fastened to side of crown in three places; first worn in England during reign of William III. Also called three-cockt h. See Continental h.
Three-eighths—see Wool.
Three-seamer—term used early in last century among English tailors referring to coats made with three principal seams.
Three-square hat—same as three-cornered h.
Throat point—that part of the shoe where the vamp and the top come together in front of the instep.
Through-and-through—see Thru-and-thru.
Throwing—the processes (winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting, re-winding, reeling, etc.) of putting raw silk into the threads required for the different kinds of weaving; these threads are known as singles, tram, and organzine (qv).
Throwster—a worker in a silk mill.
Thru-and-thru—trade term for worsteds in which the pattern shows on the back as well as the face; the opposit of backt cloth; specially indicating finer quality. (Through-and-through.)
Thru-lighting test—(cotton vs. linen.) When a linen fabric is held between the light and the eyes of the observer, it appears to be striped; cotton cloth is uniform.
Thrum—(1) the fringe of warp threads remaining on a loom after the web has been cut off; (2) coarse or waste yarn.
Thumb cuff—a metallic article of apparel carried by the police of some cities, conferred upon the party honored by placing over his thumbs and locking same together, being considered neater and more effectiv than handcuffs.
Thumb test—a common method of testing the tensil strength of fabrics, the material being taken in both hands and stretcht over the thumbs, which are held close together, and act as a straining or breaking point.
Tick mitten—loose m. of stout ticking used by truck drivers, farm laborers, etc.
Ticket pocket—see Change p.
Ticking—a stout, twilled cotton or linen material, with woven or printed stripes, employed for tents, mattress covers, carpenters’ aprons, etc.
Tidy—neat.
Tie—see Wig.
Tie clip—see Scarf fastener.
Tied-and-dried—dyer’s term, indicating that the design or pattern has been achieved by tying the material (silk or cotton cloth, etc.) tightly into knots before immersion into the dye, which results in a solid ground color, having peculiar designs where the dye was unable to penetrate the t. spots.
Tiftik—Turkish for mohair.
Tight roll—trade term for umbrellas, usually with a light steel rod, and covered with light-weight silk, designed to roll very closely or tight. Also called “close r.”
Tights—(1) a skin-fitting garment, preferably of silk, largely worn by actors and acrobats for facilitating action and displaying the form; sometimes covering the body, but more commonly the legs; (2) a tight-fitting undergarment.
Tights—one of the old names for knee breeches or “shorts”.
Tile—a hat; particularly, a tall silk h.
Tillet—a thin linen fabric stiffened with glue and used in the first half of the last century as a stiffening for coat fronts, collars, etc.
Tin—used largely in weighting cheap silks.
Tinsel braid—any braid of finely spun metal threads, woven in a variety of patterns, used for livery, uniforms, etc.
Tinsel brocade—see Brocade.
Tip—a protectiv or ornamental cap over the toe of a shoe.
Tip printer—one who prints hat tips (qv).
Tippet—(1) a long, knit, woolen scarf, worn as a muffler; (2) a fur shoulder cape; (3) a shoulder scarf worn by clergymen in place of a hood (see Amice).
Titan braid—see Hercules b.
Tobacco pouch—a small bag of soft leather, rubber or other material.