Tobago—a palm grown in the West Indies and tropical America, the slender stems of which are used for walking sticks, etc.
Toboggan cap—a knitted, woolen c., usually all white or in bright parti-colors, conical in shape, of various lengths, the apex finisht with a tassel, the open-end being folded up one or more times until the effect suits the mind and the head of the wearer; sometimes worn over the ears.
Toe plate—(1) see shoe p.; (2) a brass or aluminum cap worn at the outer edge of the toe of a shoe (as baseball s.) for protection.
Toff—vernacular for a flashy dresser; a dude. (British.)
Toga—an elliptical mantle, about 5 × 4 yards in size, worn doubled and gathered on the left shoulder, so as to hang in broad folds—worn by the old Romans.
Togged to the nines—nautical slang for an officer in full dress.
Toggery—clothes.
Togs—clothes.
Toile—French for fabric.
Toilet—the process of dressing.
Toilet paper—soft, thin, tender, manilla tissue p., readily soluble, for use in water closets.
Toilet soap—s. with its constituent greases disguised by high perfumes.
Toilet water—a dilute perfume.
Toilinet—a stout, closely woven, vesting material, usually of silk or cotton warp with wool filling, plain or loom figured. (Toilinette.)
Tom Astoner—nautical slang for a gay, dashing fellow.
Tommyhole—the accommodation opening in front of a boy’s first pants.
Toney—good style; smart; good form.
Tongs—trousers or overalls of tow or nativ cloth, worn by farm laborers in Colonial days; nickname for first long t. of boys of Revolutionary times: similar to the pantaloons of 1820.
Tongue—a strip of leather, loose or partly or wholly attacht up the sides, for closing the gap of a laced shoe. See Bellows t.
Tonsorial—of or pertaining to a barber.
Tonsure—the crown of the head shaven, leaving a surrounding fringe.
Toorie—the tassel on a Glengarry cap.
Toothpick—sometimes used in place of suspender buttons.
Toothpick collar—in tailoring a very slender or narrow coat c.
Toothpick toe—a very sharp-pointed t.—a shoe fashion now thankfully out of mind.
Top boots—b. with high tops, straight or flaring, and frequently of different color leather, sometimes richly decorated; worn by carriage servants, jockeys, sportsmen, and formerly for ostentatious dress, as part of military uniform, etc. See also Jack b.
Top coat—a light overcoat.
Top hat—a high silk h.; a “topper”.
Top lift—the outer or finishing layer of leather on the heel of a shoe.
Top piece—the same.
Top pocket—a p. in trousers, the opening of which extends in a diagonal line from a point midway between the two front waistband buttons to a point on the side seam a few inches below the waistband.
Top-shirt—same as over-s.; a working s.
Top side—tailor’s term for the t. or upper part of a pattern, as the t. part of a sleeve.
Topper—(1) a “top” or silk hat; (2) a top coat.
Toppiness—wool trade term for a sort of uneven felting of fibers at the top of the fleece.
Tops—(1) the long, straight fibers of wool—term used during combing process; (2) bundles of 1½ pounds of combed wool ready for spinning.
Toque—a knitted conical cap worn in Canada for tobogganing and other winter sports.
Torpedo beard—a la Captain Kettle.
Torrington—a name given to cotton gloves of a special quality adapted to military or similar use.
Tortoise shell—the epidermal plates of the carapace of a testudinate reptil—or—in English—the shell or house of a sea turtle.
Totem—a red-skin’s “coat of arms”, the device being painted on the breast. Each tribe and family have different “bearings”, which serve as a name or designation. Generally, totems are representations of animals.
Toupee—a little tuft, curl or artificial lock of hair; the top of a periwig; a small wig covering a bald spot.
Toupee paste—a gummy substance for making toupees adhere to the scalp.
Tourist cap—a round crown cloth c. with a visor and a band that may be turned down, covering the back of the head.
Tourist coat—a double-breasted ulster, usually of rough Scotch goods with the regular notcht or peakt collar instead of the typical ulster collar (qv); worn with or without a belt.
Tourist coating—general term for heavy Scotch and novelty overcoatings suitable for ulsters, tourist coats, etc.
Tourist collar bag—a b. with flat round bottom and soft sides closed at top by draw strings, intended to keep collars clean in suit case, trunk, etc. Usually made of leather and variously trimmed.
Tourist strap—an adjustably buckled leather strap, having snap buckles on the two ends; used for carrying small luggage.
Tourist suit—a name sometimes given to a s. of tweed or similar goods having a Norfolk jacket instead of a sack coat.
Tourniquet—a bandage with a screw or lever attachment, which when applied to a wounded limb stops the flow of blood by external pressure.
Tow—inferior flax.
Tow cloth—old-time linen homespun.
Towel—(1) a cloth, usually of linen, for drying the person after washing; (2) when saturated with ice water a most effectiv headdress for the morning after.
Town made—trade term for fabric gloves cut and sewed much after the manner of leather gloves.
Tracer—see Tracing wheel.
Tracing wheel—a small revolving metal w. with sharp teeth and a suitable handle, used for tracing paper patterns, for making two or more sheets of pattern paper adhere while being cut simultaneously, etc.
Trade journal—a daily, weekly or monthly periodical that essays to represent some particular trade or industry.
Trading stamp—“something for nothing”, but like all such promises never yet demonstrated; also a joke vehicle for cheap vaudevillians.
Tram—woof silk of two or more threads of raw silk slightly twisted.
Tramp—a wandering journeyman tailor; a near-hobo.
Traps—traveling luggage; personal possessions; movable property.
Traveling hat—see Crusher.
Travers—French textil term indicating weftwise stripes or ribs.
Treble-milled—sheared and finisht three times.
Trees—wooden lasts, for shape-retaining purposes, for boots, shoes, gloves, etc.
Trews—the ancient Celtic form of “trousers”.
Tricot—a closely woven, double-twilled woolen cloth, constructed of two sets of warp threads (one of which is frequently cotton) and one of weft, the weave characterized by faint lines or ribs running either warpwise or weftwise, usually plain dyed.
Tricot flannel—a coarse-woven, elastic f.
Tricot long—t. in which the rib runs lengthwise. See T.
Trig—spruce; fine.
Trigger finger—the forefinger of the right hand.
Trilby—a soft felt hat with a plush-like surface resembling the old-fashioned “beaver”; in shape a sort of Alpine, but varying with different makers and with the touches given it by individual wearers. (1908.)
Trimmers—in clothing manufacturing, the various workpeople who match up fabrics with linings, sewing silk, buttons, etc.
Trimming buttons—any b. used decorativly; more specifically, small flat covered b. of from 10 to 24 lines in size, tho satin and velvet b. up to 36 lines are also so called; also round and fancy shapes are so called, tho little used in men’s wear.
Triplicate mirror—a m. of three sections (usually framed), connected together and adjustable so that one may see himself in several positions simultaneously.
Trooper’s uniform—see the various descriptions of army uniforms, under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.
Tropical weight—trade term for suitings averaging 9 to 11 ounces to the yard. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Fall w.
Trousering—any woolen or worsted fabric designed especially for trousers, as fancy striped worsteds.
Trousers—bifurcated garments for the lower limbs; called “pants” by “gents”; frequently assumed for the good of the service (?) by our better halves. See Broad falls, Narrow falls, Evening dress t., Riding t., Gaiter t., etc. Compare Breeches, Knickerbockers, Pantaloons, etc.
Trousers—see Dress t. (army); Dungaree t. (navy); Full dress t. (army, navy and marine corps); Service t. (army); White t. (army); Evening dress t. (marine corps); Undress t. (marine corps); Field t. (marine corps); Special full dress t. (marine corps).
Trousers stretcher—a device for keeping t. in shape and wrinkleless by means of tension—and there are many of such devices of varying shapes and utility.
Trousers stripes—(army) for enlisted men: cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, white; engineers, scarlet, white piping; ordnance, black, scarlet piping; post quartermaster sergeants, buff; post commissary sergeants, cadet gray; hospital corps, maroon, white piping; signal corps, orange, white piping; West Point service, buff. All non-commissioned officers above rank of corporal wear stripes 1¼ in. wide; corporals ½ in.; musicians and trumpeters 2 stripes each ½ in. wide.
Trowsers—old spelling of trousers.
Troy—a town in New York where nearly all the collars, cuffs and shirts of commerce are made.
True lover’s knot—a kind of double k. with two bows and two ends, as a symbol of constancy or fidelity in love; a k. of ribbon given to be worn in token of love and fidelity.
Trunk—an article of traveling luggage, of various shapes, sizes and manufacture; and constituting the chief means of physical culture of baggage smashers.
Trunk breeches—see T. hose.
Trunk hose—a kind of full breeches, extending to the middle of the thighs, worn in 16th and 17th centuries; invented by James I to hide a deformity of hip disease.
Trunk strap—an extra large, heavy, strong leather s. used when trunks are frail or their locks unreliable.
Trunks—(1) an article of athletic apparel covering the loins and no more, usually made of velvet and with an elastic waistband; (2) a jersey for covering the body from the waist to the thighs, worn by swimmers, athletes, etc. See Bathing t.
Truss—(1) a tight-fitting, padded jacket of 16th century; (2) trousers; (3) drawers.
Truss—a metal or rubber spring or belt, with cushioned pad, bandages, straps, etc., worn for preventing or reducing hernias.
Try-on—(n) an unfinisht garment ready for the tailor to fit to the customer; (v) to shape, fit and adjust partly made garments to their ultimate wearer.
Tub—trade term for washable.
Tub washt—term applied to wool fleece broken and washt, more or less, by hand or machinery.
Tubbing—a salt water bath in the process of curing furs and leather.
Tubular—having the form of a tube, as shoelaces, braids, certain makes of belts, etc.
Tubular braid—formed by uniting an even number of threads, half running right to left, half left to right, crossing alternately over and under the threads of the opposing group.
Tuck—a flat fold in a fabric; ask your wife to show you the difference between a tuck and a plait.
Tufftaffeta—taffeta silk of the long ago (then much heavier than our present-day taffeta) with velvet or plush tufts of nap or raised pile, used for doublets and jerkins.
Tump line—the head-band of pack harness used by hunters, prospectors, et al.
Tunic—a blouse gathered at the waist or allowed to hang free.
Tunic—(1) an undress military coat; (2) the tight-fitting jacket of the British guardsmen.
Tunic—(1) a sort of shirt or blouse, reaching to the knees, with short sleeves, usually fastened with a girdle, worn by the ancient Romans; (2) the Greek chiton (qv).
Tunicle—a close-fitting vestment worn by sub-deacons, of the same material as the chasuble, reaching to the sleeves and with tight sleeves.
Tunis hat—a small cap once worn to distinguish a trade or profession.
Turban—(1) a plain cap without visor or brim; usually of velvet or cloth; (2) an oriental head covering consisting of a sash, scarf or shawl twisted about the tarboosh or cap; an innocent vanity of colonial gentlemen, worn with banyan gown when the wig was removed at home, often of velvet and other rich materials, high colored and fanciful.
Turkish yarn—y. made of the hair of the Angora goat; also called camlet y.
Turks’ satin—see S. Turk.
Turn-down collar—see Prussian c.
Turn list—a l. kept in dull seasons, by some manufacturing concerns or employers, of work to be done and of workpeople, so that the latter may, each in his turn, be given his share of what work is on hand.
Turn-over—the turned-in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Compare Turn-up.
Turn-over collar—same as Prussian c.
Turn-up—(1) the outwardly folded cuffs on the bottoms of trousers legs; (2) the ordinary turned-under hem on ditto, which if folded up is considered a sign of rain in London.
Turncoat—clothing terms are sometimes wofully prostituted.
Turned sole—a shoe without an inner s., the uppers of which are sewn to a channel cut into the s. while turned inside out. When sewn, the shoe is soaked in water until flexible and then turned right side out, hence the name.
Turner’s pants—athletic trousers of light-weight flannel with foot straps.
Turniket—see Tourniquet.
Turnip—slang for watch, especially the old-fashioned bulbous kind.
Turnip pants—trousers brought out during the late bicycle craze, convertible from ordinary business trousers to cycling knickers and vice versa. (Proprietary name.)
Turtle neck—term applied to knitted sweaters having an extra long collar or n. which is turned down or folded over several times. Compare V n.
Tusseh silk—a fine, brilliant s. fabric, very strong, woven from s. obtained from the tusseh s. worm of India, bred on the jujube tree.
Tuxedo—see Dinner jacket.
Tuxedo alpine—a soft or a. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.
Tuxedo derby—a d. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.
Tuxedo hat—same as above. Also see Dress derby.
Tweed—general name for twill woven all-wool fabrics of soft open texture, rather loose and coarse in appearance but of good weight, having loom-made patterns in stripes, checks and plaids. Originally made in Scotland, but now everywhere. See Waulking.
Twentieth century cutting—a style of diamond c. differing from brilliant c. (qv) in not having a flat table or face, but with the crown facets brought to a point for greater brilliancy.
Twig—a riding whip or crop.
Twill—any textil fabric in which the weft threads do not pass over and under the warp in alternate succession, as in plain weaving, but regularly in a varying arrangement as over one and under two, three, four, etc. Technically known as two leaf, three leaf, four leaf t., etc. See encyclopedia.
Twilled—woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric. See above.
Twills—old Scotch name for tweed.
Twist—English (trade) term for warp (qv).
Twist—see Buttonhole t.
Twist stitch—same as Cord s.
Twist wig—see Wig.
Twisted—tailoring term indicating that a coat sleeve, a trouser leg, etc., is put in badly so as to shift sidewise out of line.
Twisted—same as damask or jowhir—read a technical work for description of the process.
Twists—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns that are of two colors doubled and twisted together, giving a mottled appearance to the pattern effect, as in Bannockburns, Drummond worsteds, etc.
Twitty—mill term for uneven yarns.
Two-hole—trade term for buttons pierced with 2 holes or eyes.
Two-piece vamp—a v. composed of two pieces of upper leather.
Two-year serge—a specially good quality of serge featured by a large tailoring firm in London, England, which guarantees it to give two years’ wear, whence name.
Tyrolean hat—a sort of alpine or fedora h., soft felt, of a green color, having the bow of the band behind and a feather flaunting therein.
U
Ulster—a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather wear, usually double-breasted.
Ulster collar—a very deep c. made with an extra upward cut or notch at the apex of the notch at the step, the purpose being that the coat may be buttoned close up to the throat while the c. may be lapt over itself and stand straight upward from the throat point, which is not possible with any other style of c.
Ultra—extreme; verging on vulgarity; dangerously near being contemptuous.
Umbrel—vernacular for umbrella.
Umbrella—an article of luxury and convenience with a penchant for changing owners.
Umpire’s mask—a face guard of wire and leather, worn as a protection against thrown or batted balls and pop-bottles; usually lighter than a catcher’s m.
Unbasted—trade term for the process of sewing garments together without the parts being previously basted together, and for the garments so made; likewise applied to the workpeople who sew in this manner.
Unclad—unclothed.
Uncle—a custodian of overcoats and jewelry—per consideration.
Under lining—the inside lining inside or “back” of a vest.
Under-part—tailoring term for the lower or under side of a pattern, as the under part of a sleeve.
Under weight—not up to sample (as of woolen fabrics not as heavy as claimed); less than contract requirements.
Underbasting—in clothes manufacture, the operation of basting facings and linings to the foreparts of coats as received from the underpressers and straighteners.
Underclothing—those most intimate.
Undercoat—a body c.; a suit c.
Undercollar—tailoring term for the underside of a coat collar, usually, but not necessarily, made of a different and softer cloth (vide infra).
Undercollar cloth—a thin, pliable plain woven c. with little or no inclination to ravel; a variety of melton or ladies-c.; used for working the underside of coat collars.
Undergraduate’s gown—a long, loose g. of black stuff, ordinarily with pointed sleeves.
Underpresser—a workman who does underpressing (qv).
Underpressing—in clothing manufacture, the act of taking a partly made garment (as a coat in which the outer seams have been closed, pockets fitted, interlinings and padding put in place, etc.) and subjecting it to ironing under heavy mechanical pressure. Compare First p. and After p.
Undershirt—a garment worn next the hide.
Underside—see Under-part.
Undertaker’s cloth—see Casket c.
Underwaist—a boy’s undergarment with buttons for holding up drawers, trousers, etc.
Undress—in livery, whipcord service garments.
Undress—(navy) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions. Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers, except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.: same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers, blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover). For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only).
Undress A—(navy) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty, when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony. Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed), shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same, without shoulder straps.
Undress B—(navy) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers; at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)
Undress belt—(navy) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather, with mountings as per regulation.
Undress breeches—(marine corps) for officers, same as full dress b.
Undress cap—(marine corps) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½ in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown, 1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men, except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.
Undress coat—(navy) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c. of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.
Undress coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close, the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices, etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck, single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar, shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.
Undress jumper—(navy) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as prescribed for dress.
Undress sword belt—(marine corps) for all officers and leader of the band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.
Undress trousers—(navy) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain seams.
Undress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.
Undress uniform—(marine corps) by officers: to be habitually worn on duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or appearing before courts or boards, and when calling upon officials of our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band: likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes; when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field, white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat (blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u. belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, accouterments as ordered.
Undress waistcoat—(navy) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material, without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the same, but with plain black or white buttons.
Undrest kid—see Suede. (Undressed.)
Unfinisht—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and have a slight nap or roughness. (Unfinished.)
Unfinisht serge—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u. worsted.
Unfinisht worsted—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.
Uniform—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare Livery.
Uniform A—(army) full dress; (navy) special full dress; (marine corps) special full dress; worn whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of both services are required to appear together in uniform, at the White House, etc.
Uniform B—(army) dress; (navy) service dress; (marine corps) undress; worn as stated above in Uniform A and as otherwise prescribed.
Uniform buttons—all metal or other b. for police, fire, military, conductors, society or other uniforms, stamped with insignia, monograms, etc.
Uniform bag—a b. of canvas, leather, or both, for carrying baseball or other uniforms; usually constructed on the roll-up pattern.
Uniform C—(army) full dress or evening u.; (navy) evening dress A; (marine corps) special full dress; worn as prescribed on occasions as stated above in Uniform A.
Uniform C—(navy) the same as evening dress A but with white waistcoat in place of blue; prescribed at discretion of senior officer.
Uniform cloth—(1) a stout, well fulled, woolen c., similar to kersey, commonly dyed in navy blue and shades of gray, etc., used for police, mail and railroad u.; (2) any c. suitable for uniforms.
Uniform roll—a blanket-like sort of carry-all of waterproof canvas, with pockets, straps and handle, largely used by army, marine corps, baseball players, etc.
Uniform tailor—one who makes a specialty and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of army, navy, band, police, fire and other uniforms and livery.
Union cassimere—a men’s wear fabric woven with a cotton warp and a woolen or shoddy weft, of a quality with satinet (qv) but with a woven instead of a printed pattern. See Cassimere.
Union goods—trade term for fabrics woven of different yarns. See U. cassimere, U. linen, etc.
Union label—neither a little thing to look for nor a great thing to find.
Union labor—unobjectionable if “kept in its place”, but nevertheless the only means of bringing many an arrogant, arbitrary, slave-driving employer to his senses.
Union linen—a fabric of cotton warp and linen weft.
Union made—not made by free workmen.
Union silk—fabrics of s.-and-linen, s.-and-lisle, s.-and-wool, used largely for umbrellas.
Union suit—an undergarment combining in one piece drawers and shirt.
Union tannage—a combination of the oak and hemlock bark processes.
Unmerchantable—term applied to wool partially washt on the sheep’s back but not sufficiently to be clast as “washt” (qv).
Unpluckt—furs with the long, stiff hairs not removed, as natural seal.
Unpluckt seal—wool or fur s. with the long guard hairs left in. Same term applies to other furs, as otter, etc.
Unspottable—trade term for broadcloths and other fabrics finisht by a waterproofing process so that rain will not leave spots or soil marks.
Untwisting test—(cotton vs. linen) cotton threads when untwisted disclose a number of entangled fibers, while in linen yarn treated the same way the fibers are much nearer parallel.
Unwasht—same as “in the grease”.
Up-and-down stitch—in tailoring, any s. that is pulled thru before the next one is taken. A prick s. or side s. may be an up-and-down s. and the button s. is decidedly one.
Up-to-date—the man who has bought this book.
Upland—cotton grown in the inland districts of the Southern States.
Upper—that part of a shoe covering the foot proper.
Upper Benjamin—a livery coat with a series of shoulder capes; usually of waterproof box cloth.
Upper ten—rather more exclusiv than “the 400”.
Uppers (to walk on one’s)—poor; shabby.
Urinal bag—a long, light, rubber b. with straps for attaching to leg and waist; worn by persons afflicted with bladder weakness.
Usher—polite name for floorwalker.
Utica—a popular brand of shirting muslin.
V
V—in tailoring, etc., a triangular dart cut into some part of a garment, as at the waist, for the purpose of giving shape.
V neck—term applied to sweaters having no collar or n., but instead a slit or V-shape opening in front. Compare Turtle n.
Vaccination shield—a metal or papier mache s. attacht by straps, worn over the point of v. and beneath the underclothing; a device intended to prevent the wasteful and expletiv saying of “ouch”!
Valencia—a stout, striped or figured vesting material, of silk or cotton warp with worsted weft, chiefly used for livery waistcoats.
Valentian—see Valencia.
Valet—the gentleman who reads master’s letters, wears his clothes and at times helps him dress.
Valet’s brush—a long, narrow, straightback b. with graduated bristles.
Valet’s livery—none at all; the valet dresses quietly like most people.
Valeting companies—institutions that “take care” of your wardrobe for a monthly consideration.
Vamp—the forepart of shoe-uppers. See Quarters.
Vampay—a short woolen hose or stocking reaching only to the ankles, probably the forerunner of our modern footless bicycle stocking.
Vamping—the process of stitching a vamp or upper to a top.
Vandyke—a short, close-trimmed, sharp-pointed beard.
Vandyke flap—in tailoring a doubly roached f.; having an edge of two concave curves, joined, resulting in points at the ends and in the center.
Vanity—pride: shallow, conceited and obtrusiv.
Varnish—shoe polish.
’Varsity—general term for clothes made with some eccentricity favored by college boys.
Veal calf—a variety of shoe leather: a skin coming from a large-sized or partly grown calf, or from a younger animal than a skin called Runner (qv).
Vegetable flannel—a coarse, heavy fabric woven of the “wool” obtained from pine needles. See Pine wool.
Vegetable haircloth—see Imitation h.
Vegetable ivory—the fruit or nuts of a tropical palm (phytelephas macrocarpa) found principally upon the banks of the Esmeralda river in South America. While growing the nuts are soft and creamy but soon harden, acquiring a texture not unlike animal ivory and are used, almost entirely, for making buttons. See I. nut.
Vegetable wool—a peculiar variety of cotton grown in Peru, rough, crinkly, strong and closely resembling animal w.
Veldt coat—similar to the Norfolk or shooting jacket; made very easy in fit, permitting exceptional liberty of action in hunting, golf, etc., usually worn without waistcoat.
Vellum—in military parlance a v. is a measurement of width of gold braid.
Velour—(1) a soft napt, close-bodied woolen cloth for men’s wear; (2) any fabric of or resembling velvet.
Velour—a velvet or silk pad for smoothing a silk hat. See Leur.
Velour—a coined or trade name used to designate a peculiar high glaze or finish given to certain kinds of upper leathers.
Velutine—a kind of corded merino.
Velvet—a silk fabric with a closely woven back and on the face side a thick, short, smooth nap or cut pile; usually woven double and split apart by knives; made with both silk and cotton backs and so denominated. In its various forms and qualities used for coat collars, waistcoats, livery, smoking jackets, etc.
Velvet collar—a c. made of v. instead of same goods as body of garment; practically confined to overcoats. See also Inlaid c. and Laid-on c.
Velvet finish—a form of f. given to overcoatings and similar cloths having a heavy nap—in some of which it is left curly, while on others it is left standing out. Compare Bareface f., Scotch f., Dress faced.
Velveteen—a silk and cotton or all-cotton velvet.
Venetian—a stout, closely woven, fine worsted cloth having a roundish, upright twill, commonly dyed in plain colors, moderately fulled, milled and cropt bare in finishing and given a high luster.
Venetian—a twilled lining material of cotton warp and worsted weft, also known as Italian cloth. Compare Farmer’s satin.
Venetians—a sort of knee breeches, reaching to just below the knee, said to have originated in Venice; same as galligaskins.
Vent—in tailoring (1) an opening; usually the lower parts of seams, for varying distances, according to style or taste, not closed but left open and lapt over or finisht to meet; (2) an outlet (qv).
Ventilated shoe—a s. having a more or less ornamental series of perforations or cut-out designs in the uppers, in appearance resembling a compromise between shoe and sandal.
Verger’s gown—a plain g. of black stuff, with velvet collar, and with short, open-slasht sleeves.
Vertical pocket—a slasht or welted perpendicular p., opening thru the lining or not. See Raincoat p.
Vest—see Waistcoat.
Vest corner stiffener—a device made of flexible copper wire, designed to be inserted between the material at the cutaway or lower corners of a waistcoat, with the intention of keeping the same from curling up. Not needed with a well-made waistcoat—and perhaps not likely to spoil a cheap one.
Vest maker—a journeyman tailor who makes waistcoats his specialty.
Vest sweater—a sleeveless, collarless s., open in front and closed with buttons.
Vestee—see Vestlet.
Vestlet—a shaped strip of white linen or other material pinned or otherwise fastened around the neck of a waistcoat, inside, so that a mere edging of white will show.
Vestment—loosely, any ecclesiastical garment.
Vestwo—proprietary name for a reversible vest or waistcoat made not with an inner lining, as is usual, but of two different fabrics, so that either side may be worn outward.
Vici kid—a trade mark name used to designate a particular method of tanning or finishing goat skins; also the shoe leather as produced.
Vicuna—(1) the wool of a South American animal of the camel tribe, distinguisht for exceeding softness and lightness—but because of its scarcity fine merino wool is largely substituted and so called; (2) heavily napt suiting and overcoating cloths of fine, soft, silky texture, usually twill woven, and plain dyed or in Oxford mixtures.
Viscolized—a coined trade mark word used to designate a particular oily waterproofing process used for finishing or preserving both sole and upper leathers, used for hunting, fishing and tramping boots. See Stuft leather.
Viscolized calf—see foregoing.
Visor—see Vizor.
Viyella—proprietary name for a sort of fine flannel.
Visiting case—(1) a variety of suit c.; (2) one of many names for suit cases.
Vizor—(1) a projecting piece on a cap, forming a shield for the eyes; (2) the frontpiece of a helmet with openings for seeing and breathing; (3) a mask.
Vladimir—a velour-finisht cassimere, made of fine Australian wool, giving a peculiar soft “handle”.
Vulgar—not in good taste, as loud colors, readymade scarves, collar springs, dissonant shoe laces, redundant jewelry, inappropriate articles of attire at dress functions.
Vulgarian—sartorially, a horrible example, and the chief patron of the cheap tailor and flash readymader; if of the new rich, a shining mark for the gaudy “swell” haberdasher and conscienceless tailor.
W
Wadding—the tailor’s expedient for making a lanky, gawky customer look well in the eyes of his best girl and fellow creatures; specifically thin sheets or layers of carded cotton or batting, usually of a dull slate color, the outsides of which are glazed for strength (such as it is). Compare Padding.
Waders—rubber hunting boots reaching to the thighs or waist.
Wading boots—see Waders.
Wading pants—rubber coverings for the legs and lower part of the body, made with rubber stocking feet or with boot soles.
Wading shoe—a leather or leather-and-canvas laced s., opening down to the toe, with a sewed on sole studded with hobnails.
Wading stocking—long hose of rubber, with soft rubber feet, attacht by a strap to the waist belt.
Wadmoll—a very coarse, felted woolen stuff (obsolete).
Waist—that part of the body between the chest and the hips lying beneath the ribs or thorax and above the haunchbones; the narrow part of the trunk. The “fashionable waist” of tailors is sometimes above and sometimes below the natural w.
Waist—see Shirt-w.; also Under-w.
Waist-band—(1) the upper part of trousers and drawers; (2) a sash.
Waistcloth—a strip of cotton or linen c. worn around the waist and hanging below it or passed between the thighs, worn by the unregenerate heathen.
Waistcoat—a short, sleeveless body garment worn between the coat and the shirt, the foreparts of which are made of cloth to match the suit or of fancy material, the backs being of a silk or mohair or cotton lining material on the outside, with a thinner fancy or plain silk or cotton lining on the inside; usually 4 welted pockets outside and one in the inside lining; vulgarly a “vest”.
Waistcoating—the proper name, but see Vesting.
Waisted—shaped with or having a waist.
Waiter’s jacket—a sort of tuxedo coat, cut off short at the waist, similar to a military mess j.
Waiter’s livery—same as Footman’s dress l.
Waiter’s shoes—easy s. of soft leather, with light turned soles and low heels.
Wald wolle—forest wool (qv).
Wale—a ridge, rib or flattish streak appearing above the groundwork of a woven fabric, usually a result of twilling.
Walking coat—resembling a cutaway frock c., but a trifle shorter and usually with pocket flaps on hips, and more frequently made of fancy suitings. Also called English walking c. and morning frock.
Walking frock—same.
Walking gloves—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.
Walking stick—a cane—supposed to complete a man’s street equipment.
Wall trunk—a t. so hinged that the top and back form a straight, vertical line when opened and permit setting close to wall.
Wallaby—a sort of small kangaroo; hide used in fancy “leather goods”.
Wallet—a leather pocketbook for carrying bank notes lengthwise, also other incunabulae such as bills, billet-deux, billets d’amour, etc.
Wambais—a name once given to some sort of garment quilted with wool flax or tow.
Wammus—a sort of heavy, loose knitted, cardigan jacket, usually belted; a mosey; also spelt wamus and warmus.
Wampen system—an “anthropometrical system” which, like all other tailoring systems, is of alleged perfection; invented by a German scientist of that name.
Wampum—Indian bead work used variously for necklaces, bracelets, belts, etc., and among the early colonists as money.
Wamsutta—a brand of heavy muslin extensivly used for shirts.
Wangan—hunters’ term for clothing, cooking utensils, articles of personal comfort and other incommodia taken on a camping-out hunting trip.
Wangan bag—a waterproof canvas b., about the size of a meal b., for transporting hunters’ suplies (see Wangan) from camp to camp.
War paint—(1) an Indian’s gala decoration; (2) cant for one’s best clothes when donned for purposes of conquest.
Wardrobe—(1) one’s collection of garments; (2) a clothes-closet.
Wardrobe trunk—a t., variously constructed, but usually intended to stand apparently on end, opening up so that garments are properly held on hangers and kept in place with straps to prevent bunching; also often with a series of drawers or partitions for smaller articles of apparel.
Warmus—see Wammus.
Warp—the threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed by the filling or weft; sometimes called chain or end.
Warp—in mill parlance “a warp” is the quantity of chain required to fully equip a loom, about 400 yards or enough for eight 50-yard pieces of a pattern, which is the least a mill usually will start to weave, altho occasionally “half a w.” will be put on. Hence, if a buyer order one piece of a certain pattern and no one else should order of that particular style, the solitary buyer would not be likely to get his goods, the alleged reason usually being that of delay.
Warp beam—the roller or b. in a loom on which the w. is wound.
Warp dresser—a machine for sizing yarns before placing them in the loom.
Warp mill—a machine for arranging the threads for laying the w. in a loom.
Warp-printed—trade term for fabrics (usually silks) wherein the pattern or design is p. on the warp threads before weaving, the filling being of plain color or neutral shades.
Warp wing—a proprietary term distinguishing a certain make of shirt collars, the wings or points of which are inserted the way of the w., it being claimed that w. threads are stronger than weft threads, and hence such collars are more likely to stand the wear and tear of laundering longer than collars made in the usual way.
Warping—the process of making warp.
Wash cloth—a small, square of terry or other material, for toilet purposes.
Wash clothes—(nautical) garments that have been washt and hung on the line to dry.
Wash goods—trade term for fabrics, manufactured articles of apparel, etc., designed to be washt or laundered.
Wash suit—trade term for garments made of washable materials, particularly for boys and children’s wear.
Washable—(1) that may be washt or laundered without injury to color, texture or finish; (2) goods without special Glaze or Finish.
Washed—see Washt.
Washer—one of the old names for kersey.
Washerlady—a person who helps others keep up a good appearance, sometimes at her own expense; as bad a bill-collector as the tailor, and an individual who knows more secrets than she gets paid for keeping.
Washerwoman—many prefer the title “washerlady” (qv).
Washing—see Scouring.
Washing mitten—see Bath m.
Washington navy serge—a fine grade, wool-dyed worsted s. of exceptional tensil strength and wearing qualities, of a permanent rich indigo color, adopted by the U. S. Government as the standard for naval officer’s uniforms. Made by the Washington mills, one of the largest plants in America, if not in the world.
Washt—jewelry trade term for very cheap jewelry of base metal with a light electroplating of gold. (Washed.)
Washt—term for fleece washt on the sheep before clipping by means of cold water. Compare Scoured, Tub washt and Unmerchantable. (Washed.)
Watch—(1) a pocket timepiece; (2) a means of occasional emergent restoration of finances.
Watch Albert—a guard, usually of leather and metal, worn attacht to the lapel buttonhole, the w. being carried in the outside breast pocket of coat.
Watch cap—a knitted c. of navy-blue worsted, conical in shape, worn by enlisted men in the navy on working duty.
Watch coat—general name for overcoats worn by sailors on w. in cold weather, at night, etc.
Watch-guard—a chain, cord or ribbon attacht to a w. at one end and to the person at the other.
Watch pocket—(1) a small p. inserted in the waistband of trousers; also called fob p.; (2) the lower left-hand p. of a waistcoat.
Watch wristlet—a leather w. with a small watch embedded therein, worn by chappies at pretty outdoor games and by some motormen on street cars.
Water bag—a b. made of linen duck for carrying drinking water while hunting, exudation and evaporation cooling the contents.
Water stiff—trade term for felt hats of the cheaper grades, stiffened by a w. process. See Wine s.
Watered—see Moire.
Waterfall—a sort of puff scarf, not crost in front; a once-over.
Watermarks—spots or discolorations on goods (as woolen cloths, etc.), happening during process of sponging.
Waterproof—general name for any textil fabric so treated, by rubber or chemicals or otherwise, that it repels instead of absorbing water. See Cravenette.
Waterproofing—the method or process of rendering fabrics impervious to water, for which there are many formulae, each “the best”. See an encyclopedia.
Water wings—pneumatic aids for swimming learners.
Wattle weave—a style of straw hat not easy to describe unless you know what wattle is.
Waukenphast—a sort of orthopedic shoe.
Waulking—a finishing process in the manufacture of Harris tweeds and other homespun woolens of British crofting localities: the cloth after weaving being laid out on long tables or boards, soap and water liberally poured on and the cloth vigorously pommeled by hand until sufficiently fulled or thickened, after which it is washt in clear, cold, running water, and is then ready for the market.
Wax—general term for various waxes used in the trades, as beesw., shoemaker’s w., etc.
Wax calf—calfskin tanned and finisht for upper leather, on the flesh side.
Wax cloth—trade term for waterproof fabrics treated by a paraffin process.
Wax-end—in shoemaking, a stout thread or its end, made stiff and pointed with wax or waxed and twisted with a bristle.
Wearables—clothes; wearing apparel.
Weather test—see Exposure t.
Weatherproof—rainproof.
Weaving—the mechanical process of manufacturing textil fabrics from yarns or threads. Very interesting and important but too complicated for the limited scope of this concise book—consult some good encyclopedia or work on textil processes and then get permission to go thru a mill.
Web thumb—trade term for a flexible connecting piece between t. and forefinger of baseball gloves. See Fielder’s glove.
Wedding outfit—a collection of sartorial elegance that one expends much pains to acquire and later wonders why he did it.
Wedding ring—equivalent to the “sold” tickets placed on furniture in the shops; custom permits men to wear them as well as women—but few are brave enough.
Wedge heels—see Spring h.
Weeds—mourning.
Weft—the woof or filling of a fabric; the threads that cross the warp from selvage to selvage.
Weichsel—aromatic cherry wood, used for canes, umbrella handles, cigar holders, etc.
Weight—in piece goods the number of ounces a yard of material weighs. See Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w., Fall w.
Weighted silk—s. that in dyeing has been so weighted or loaded with superfluous heavy chemicals, gums, etc., as to weigh considerably more than before dyeing. Compare Pure dye. See Weighting.
Weighted silk test—apply lighted match and if flame continues a few seconds after removal of match, silk is w.
Weighting—in silk dyeing the process of surcharging the yarn or fabric with gums, mineral matter, etc., for the purpose of making the goods seem stout and heavy; also called loading.
Welfare work—name felicitously applied to polite intermeddling in employes’ affairs by large corporations; a sort of paternalism that stimulates an artificial interest in the business and a covert study of how to break the golden rule; a variant of the living-in system of English shop assistants; also a variant of our modern slum settlement work.
Well-brusht—clean, neat, presentable. (W.-brushed.)
Wellington boot—a tight-fitting b. of fine leather, the tops usually of morocco, hugging the calf closely and coming to a point in front and there finisht with a small colored silk tassel; a style of the early part of the last century.
Wellington cloak—a military style of cape, such as is latterly worn by mounted policemen.
Wellington frock—the single-breasted f. coat of 1818; perhaps the first of modern coats cut with a waist seam.
Wellington hat—a U. S. military h. of early in the 19th century, long, narrow, high, with a small tassel or roset on the two extreme points of the turned-up brim.
Wellington trousers—see Pantaloon t.
Wellingtons—see above.
Welt—in tailoring (1) a strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing as well as strengthening device; (2) a raised or swelled lap seam; (3) a covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or along a seam. In knitting (1) a flap knitted separately and then joined to the main fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel piece of a stocking; (2) a ribbed piece forming the finishing end, as of a sleeve or sock, to prevent rolling. In glove making (1) a piece fastened on the edge of a seam; (2) a sewed on hem-finish at the wrist of a glove. In shoemaking a strip of leather set into the seam between the edges of the upper and outer sole, thru which they are sewed together. See Goodyear w., McKay sewed, W. sole, etc.