A dictionary of men's wear

There are various systems of shoe sizes in use nowadays—designed, perhaps, to deceive those with vanity afflicted who will insist they can wear a smaller size than they can wear—or should wear. So if one asks for 6½A he can depart in peace and comfort wearing 40–1, or 185, or 28–1, or otherwise as the system may be.

Yet for that matter an 8½A by one maker may not be 8½A in some other maker’s shoes, although both use the old numbering system, as many still do.

The best known of the “blind numbering systems” is that known as “French Sizes” and corresponds thus:

A dash indicates half sizes.

In marking, the size is first written, then the width, close together; thus 37–0 means 5½A, 40–1 means 8B, etc.

Another widely used system is more obvious, in that ½ is the decimal .5 without the decimal point, thus:

In marking, the width is written first, so that 1½A is 115, 4½C is 345, etc.

A third system has a valueless figure prefixt thus:

The dash indicating the half sizes.

In marking, the widths are written last, thus 22–0 means 2½A, 281 means 8B or 8A.

A system largely used in marking men’s shoes consists in letting the last figure indicate the width and dividing the first figure or figures by 2 to obtain the size, thus:

Thus size 7½A is written 151, size 8B is written 162, and so on.

Another system, and one that is used by the Douglas Shoe Co., has the width written first, and the size next, a third figure being used to indicate whether a whole or half size is meant, thus:

This system retains the regular size numbers from 1 upward, the whole number being indicated by 0 and a half size by 5 added as the third figure. After size 9½ four figures are used, the two middle ones indicating the size. Widths are designated thus:

Doubtless, like in all things else, woman was at the bottom of the invention of these systems, which were fittingly applied first of all to woman’s shoes, but nowadays they are quite universal. Hence he is a happy man whose shoes fit and who knows it.

Shoe sizes for the various ages are usually divided thus:

while widths are clast

While it is scarcely advisable to order shoes (by mail, for instance) by the sizes of one’s hose, it is quite practicable, satisfactory and comfortable to order hose by the size of one’s shoes—that is to say by the relation of these sizes to each other, to wit:

Men’s hosiery—

Average weight in cotton, 2½ ounces per pair; wool, 3½ ounces.

Children’s hosiery—

Average weight per pair, cotton, 2 to 4 ounces; per dozen, 20 to 40 ounces; wool, about 50 per cent more.

HOSIERY SIZE MARKS

The little pinhead holes near the ribbed top of a stocking indicate its size. Read them thus:

As commonly made the following lengths of sleeves are provided for each neck size—a lesser range for colored shirts because of the extra hazard on “novelties” and perhaps because the wearers aren’t so particular as he who must be au fait in spick-and-span white all the time.

Attacht cuffs add 2 inches.

BOYS’ AND CHILDREN’S UNION SUITS

The corresponding sizes for ages are as follows:

If large for his age, take next size larger, or the following:

If your children are large for their age, purchase at least one size larger than the average as given in the scale of sizes.

None of the goods under this heading are intended for large boys. Boys’ drawers and shirts come in sizes 24 to 34 only.

CHILDREN’S GLOVE SIZES (AVERAGES)

SILK RIBBON WIDTHS

In this table is given the usual width of silk ribbons according to their respectiv numbers:

Cloths and all textil fabrics are standardized on the basis of the weight of a yard in ounces. The approximate weights given below are for double-width goods—54 inches; but as double-width varies from 48 to 60 inches the term itself is, once in a while, misleading. However, if the “double-width” is unusually narrow or unusually wide it is generally so stated in exact figures, both as to width and weight. The weights of cloth commonly used for men’s clothing in this country are:

TAILORS’ BUTTON SIZES

The range of sizes commonly used on the various garments is:

SILK THREAD TABLE

This table shows the numbers of silk thread, with the corresponding number of yards per pound and per ounce:

The sizes of silk thread and twist most widely used for best results in the making of men’s clothing are:

HOW TO MEASURE FOR A WIG

Maybe you can get a good “fit” by self-measurement and ordering by mail. Try it.

To order a toupee, cut a piece of paper the exact size and shape of the bald spot and also give measurement around the head (No. 1) and state on which side the hair is parted.

METRIC MEASURES

The unit of length measurement in the metric system is the meter, which is supposed to be one ten-millionth part of the earth’s meridian quadrant, or 39.370 inches.

The unit of surface is the are, or 100 square meters. The unit of volume is the stere, which is a cubic meter. The unit of volume is the liter, or the volume of 1 kilogram of distilled water at its maximum density, or the equivalent, one cubic decimeter.

Prefixes to the words meter, are, stere, and liter, etc., indicate multiples or fractions thereof, thus:

BRITISH PEERS’ ROBES AND CORONETS

These heritages of a glorious feudal past are tenaciously cherished with all their privileges, but needless to say, are worn only upon high ceremonial occasions.

There have been some few changes thruout the ages which this condenst book for busy Americans cannot spare space to describe. At the coronation of King Edward an edict informed those immediately concerned that “the robe or mantle of the Peers be of crimson velvet edged with miniver, the cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or rows of ermine according to their degrees, viz.:

The said mantles or robes to be worn over the full Court dress, uniforms or regimentals.

“Their coronets to be of silver-gilt, the caps of crimson velvet turned up with ermine, with a gold tassel on the top and no jewels or precious stones are to be set or used in the coronets or counterfeit pearls instead of silver balls.

“The coronet of a Baron to have on the circle or rim six silver bells at equal distances.

“The coronet of a Viscount to have on the circle sixteen silver balls.

“The coronet of an Earl to have on the circle four gold strawberry leaves and four silver leaves alternately, the latter a little raised or pointed above the rim.

“The coronet of a Duke to have on the circle eight gold strawberry leaves.”

A knowledge of the uniforms of the few remaining “ancient and honorable” military organizations, dating back to the early days of the country may be very useful to shopkeepers on occasions such as visits, celebrations, etc., and, in a broader way, to any student of costume or anyone having a professional, business or transient interest in the subject.

The information following was supplied in every case by some member of the companies listed, usually by the commanding officer. Unfortunately, the list is not quite complete, as several promises to furnish descriptiv matter at a later date were apparently forgotten, and a few, tho repeatedly and courteously requested to do so, gave the matter no attention. Nevertheless, this is a representativ and measurably useful list.

It must be remembered, however, that in keeping with the condenst character of the Dictionary, descriptions are necessarily quite brief. If more precise information is required by any reader, it may be had, doubtless, by addressing the commanding officer of the company.

Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Massachusetts, Boston, Mass. Organized 1638. Each company of this organization retains the uniform adopted at the time of its organization, the original company wearing the quaint buff-leather jerkins, flat hats and other characteristic accessories of that time; the companies organized at the time of the war for independence wearing the historic buff and blue so well known to every school boy; those of the time of the late rebellion wearing the characteristic civil war uniforms; while companies formed later wear more modern equipment.

Charleston Light Dragoons, Charleston, S. C. Organized 1733 (the oldest cavalry and the second oldest military organization in the U. S.). Now wearing the regulation U. S. uniform. Former uniform: a full dress coat of dark green cloth, buttoned to the throat, trimmed with seven rows of yellow braid across front connecting three rows of buttons, standing collar trimmed with yellow braid, yellow shoulder knots; green trousers with yellow stripes; black boots; helmet of black leather with heavy brass ridge trimmings, horsehair pendant, brass visor, brass chin scale and brass crest.

Charlestown Artillery, Boston, Mass. Organized 1786. For many years has worn only the regular uniform of the U. S. army and has no longer a private uniform.

Chatham Artillery, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1786. The regular uniform that of the U. S. army. The dress uniform consists of: a half-frock artillery coat of gray cloth, single-breasted with a row of nine Georgia buttons in front, standing collar of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace, cuffs of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace; trousers of blue cassimere cloth with stripes of scarlet cloth on outer seams edged with gold lace; cap of scarlet cloth with gray cloth field on top and with gold band and insignia; gold shoulder knots with scarlet ground and silver insignia; belt of gold and scarlet; the same uniform for non-commissioned officers and privates, except the cuffs of coat edged with scarlet mohair braid instead of gold, the trousers with narrower stripes, the shoulder knots of scarlet mohair braid with gray ground, and the cap with scarlet field and scarlet band. The service uniform consists of a dark blue flannel shirt, dark gray jeans trousers, U. S. army campaign hat, brown duck army leggins.

Columbus Riflemen, Columbus, Miss. Organized 1837. Present uniform that of the National Guard. In years past the company has various uniforms, the most notable and expensiv being a gray cutaway coat with a double row of buttons across the front fastened with gold bands across the breast; gold epaulets and white helmet.

Duquesne Grays, Pittsburgh, Pa. Organized 1831. A dress uniform of gray cloth, consisting of a full dress coat piped with white, with three rows of bell buttons on the breast, white epaulets, white cross belts and white waistbelt; a broad white stripe on the outerseams of the trousers; bearskin shako; in general resembling that of West Point and the Cleveland Grays. The undress uniform consists of a gray blouse with one row of buttons, gray trousers with white stripes, and a regulation gray cap with insignia.

First Company Governor’s Foot Guard, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1771. Dress uniform consists of single-breasted cutaway frock coat of scarlet cloth with standing collar, a shaped plastron of black cloth on front trimmed with eight rows of silver braid and edged with same, standing collar and cuffs of black trimmed to match, skirts lined with buff cloth; waistcoat and breeches of buff cloth; black leggings; black fur cap with red-tipt pompon and red tassel on sides and gilt blazon in front; white cross belts.

First Company Governor’s Horse Guard, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1778. The dress uniform consists of a hussar’s jacket of navy blue cloth with cross rows of black braid in front, fastening with olives, black braid up the back seams to the shoulders; gold shoulder knots; gold breast belt over left shoulder with dispatch box attacht behind, gold aigulets; black astrakhan busby cap with yellow broadcloth top draping over the right side with hussar plume and insignia of troop.

First Light Infantry, Providence, R. I. Organized 1818. The dress uniform consists of a scarlet swallowtail coat with standing collar; coat trimmed with white and gold; white epaulets trimmed with red; light blue trousers of cloth woven especially for the regiment, with stripes of white broadcloth piped with red, except for officers who wear gold stripes with red piping; a bearskin hat about 18 in. high with black leather chin strap and gold wire tassel in front. Equipment: a black leather waistbelt with plain brass buckle; bayonet scabbard of black leather with brass trimmings; a white cross belt with cartridge box of colonial style attacht; in general resembling the uniforms of the Old Guard of the City of New York, the Governor’s Foot Guards of Hartford, Conn., and the Washington (D. C.) Light Infantry. The dress uniform conforms to U. S. army regulations.

First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized 1774. Officers mounted full dress uniform: single-breasted jacket of dark blue cloth with three rows of metal ball buttons, standing collar of scarlet cloth extending down center of back 3½ in. to point, narrow silver braiding on back, breast, collar, pocket, sleeves and skirt; tight-fitting ankle breeches of white stockinet; helmet: body with vizor and cape of black japanned leather, body 6½ in. high with metal band, vizor metal bound and metal crest, side leaves, rosets and chin scales, a jet black grenier with fine short hair; epaulets of silver wire lace; sabretache of black morocco; baldric of scarlet silk and silver lace, lined with red leather; gauntlets of white leather; jack boots of black leather with front reaching above knees when seated; and other details, insignia, etc., as per regulations. The same uniform with slight modifications for non-commissioned officers and privates. Dismounted, wear trousers in place of breeches. Mess uniform: single-breasted jacket of dark blue cloth, open in front, with standing collar trimmed with silver braid looping across and fastening in front, pointed cuffs trimmed with silver braid; white linen waistcoat closed to neck, with nickelplated buttons, silver shoulder cords. For men, a similar uniform with slight modifications.

Georgia Hussars, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1737. Present uniform that of the National Guard. The historical uniform, adopted in 1819, was an adaptation of the uniform of the Austrian army, the coat being a single-breasted Hussar jacket, with five rows of buttons arranged shield shape on the front.

Infantry Battalion State Fencibles, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized 1813. Dress uniform: coatee of scarlet cloth with standing collar, trimmed across breast with seven rows white and gold braid, deep gold breast cord, cuffs of white cloth with ornamental gold braiding, epaulets of gold lace; black trousers with white stripes; bearskin shako, with gold tassel, except for staff officers, who wear blue felt helmets with long white horse hair plumes. Same uniform for privates except that epaulets are of cotton cord instead of gold lace. Also the regulation olive-drab service uniform.

Kentish Guards, East Greenwich, R. I. Organized 1774. A single-breasted coatee of dark blue cloth, closed to throat with nine brass buttons, the collar of white cloth trimmed with flat gold braid, the coat trimmed with white and gold braid; trousers of sky-blue cloth with white stripe on outer seams 1¼ in. wide for officers and ¾ in. wide for non-commissioned officers and privates. Except for insignia of rank and trousers stripes the uniform is the same for all officers and men. Insignia same as U. S. army full dress.

Lafayette Artillery Company, South Lyndeboro, N. H. Organized 1804. Now wears the present dress uniform of the regular artillery of the U. S. army, with the exceptions as follows: the caps are the older straight caps instead of the present bell crown; the officers wear the same uniforms as the men with the exception of the stripes and shoulder straps; officers wear gilt stripes, but non-commissioned officers wear the regulation red stripe and chevrons. One of the historic uniforms of the company, adopted in 1833 or earlier, consisted of “a Bonaparte cap with a black “ploom”, the coat blue and trimmed with yellow ball buttons and yellow worsted cord; with white pantaloons, with black “gaters” in pickets and black stocks, yellow belts for the sword with a belt over the shoulder, and boots”.

Macon Volunteers, Macon, Ga. Organized 1825. Now Co. B., 2nd Regt. Infantry, National Guard of Georgia and wearing the regular army uniform.

Mobile Rifle Company, Mobile, Ala. Organized 1836. Frock coat and trousers of olive-green cloth, the coat for men trimmed with a row of brass buttons on either side of breast, white epaulets and wide white webbing over the shoulders, meeting at center of breast and fastened with a large brass buckle; for officers, with rows of gold braid across breast instead of the brass buttons, and gold shoulder knots. Trousers with gold stripes at the sides. A high olive-green cap with gold trimmings and white plume.

Montgomery True Blues, Montgomery, Ala. Organized 1836. Dress uniform consists of a coatee of dark blue cloth, for officers, with seven rows of gold braid across breast, gold standing collar with center of red, gold epaulets with red center; enlisted men wearing white cross belts instead of gold braid across breast and gold epaulets with red fringe; white waist belts; trousers of light blue cloth with gold stripes with red center; black shakos with two gold tassels.

National Lancers, Boston, Mass. Organized 1836. Dress uniform: a double-breasted dress coat of scarlet cloth with two rows of nine buttons on breast, skirts faced back and front with military blue cloth and lined with scarlet cloth, standing collar, the coat trimmed rather elaborately with gold braid; trousers for officers, of dark blue cloth with gold stripe for full dress, and of sky-blue cloth with yellow cloth stripe for undress, and for troopers of sky-blue cloth with yellow cord stripe; riding breeches of same material and style; helmet of blue felt, lancers pattern, with black enamel leather square top with brass bound corners, brass scalechin strap, gold helmet cord extending to neck and beneath right shoulder passing under the arm, plume of white swans feathers; epaulets of scarlet cloth for troopers, shoulder knots of gold braid for officers; belt and saber straps of white enamel leather, officers wearing regulation army gold-embroidered dress belt; cape of dark blue kersey lined with yellow, officers wearing army officer’s cape. Fatigue uniform: a close-fitting blouse of dark blue cloth fastened with nine buttons, four outside bellows pockets with flaps; cap, same as U. S. army.

New Haven Grays, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1816. The dress uniform of iron-gray cloth, consisting of a coatee with nine rows of braid across the front and three rows of buttons, standing collar, fringed epaulets, white waist belt and white cross belts, tall stiff felt cap with pompon, insignia, etc.; trousers to match with two braid stripes; in general resembling the West Point uniform.

Old Guard of the City of New York, New York, N. Y. Organized 1826. Dress uniform: double-breasted coat of white cloth with ten buttons on a side, embroidered collar of mazarin blue cloth; mazarin blue cuffs, edged with scarlet cloth and trimmed with gold braid; skirts turned up front and back with mazarin blue cloth edged with scarlet and trimmed with gold braid; trousers of mazarin blue cloth with scarlet stripes and gold braiding along outer seams; bearskin grenadier hat 15 in. high and 36 in. around at top, with two gold tassels and metallic chin strap; or a dress cap of dark blue cloth, circular pattern, without visor, with patent leather chin strap, gold embroidery on red field in front, for wear with white coat on occasions of ceremony. Overcoat of heavy dark blue beaver, double-breasted surtout style, with collar, cuffs and side edges of scarlet cloth edged with white cord. Fatigue uniform: a single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth, closed with flap with concealed fastenings, standing collar, trimmed along edges, seams, etc., with flat black mohair braid; fatigue cap of regulation pattern with black silk cord. Officers’ dress same as for privates except hat and cap cords are of gilt; epaulets of fine bullion, plain straps. Shoulder knots of gold wire cord on scarlet cloth. Other details as per regulations.

Republican Rifles, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1808. No longer uses the old uniforms of the corps, but is uniformed and equipt under the National Guard of Georgia.

Salem Light Infantry, Salem, Mass. Organized 1805. No private uniform at the present time, wearing that of the National Guard.

Second Battery, F. A. N. G., N. Y., New York, N. Y. Organized 1833. Equipt and uniformed exactly as a Field Battery of the U. S. army.

Second Company Governor’s Foot Guard, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1775. Dress uniform consists of scarlet frock coat, single-breasted, cutaway sharply just below the middle of the chest, the front with a plastron of light blue cloth, square at the top, and extending in a narrow edging all along the skirts, trimmed along its edges with silver braid, and laid across the breast with rows of silver braid, cuffs and standing collar of blue cloth with silver trimming to match, also a similar treatment on the skirts over the hips; waistcoat and breeches of white cloth; black velvet leggings; bearskin shako with silver tassel; white gloves; white cross belts, black waist belt.

Second Corps of Cadets, Salem, Mass. Organized 1785. In its career the corps has had some sixteen or more uniforms, all of which it wears on certain occasions, as anniversary celebrations, etc. With the exception of the uniform worn during the civil war, all the coats were red, with black, blue or light blue trousers. The present uniform consists of a red coat with blue facings (collar, cuffs, belt, tabs, shoulder straps, side edges, etc.) with white edges; trousers of dark blue cloth with white stripes; waist belt and cross belt of black enamel leather; French shako cap of beaver with red and blue pompon; gold chevrons; other details as prescribed.

Seventh Regiment, N. G., S. N. Y., New York, N. Y. Organized 1806. Full dress coat: of cadet gray cloth, single-breasted with standing collar, the skirts lined with black cloth and turned up both back and front, fronts of the coat trimmed with three rows of N. G. buttons connected across with black mohair braid in double rows. Dress coat, officers: of dark blue cloth with standing collar; for enlisted men: a blouse of cadet gray cloth with standing collar and cuffs of black cloth. Trousers of gray cadet cloth with black stripes; in summer of white duck. Full dress hat: a shako of black felt or beaver 4½ in. high in front and 7½ in. high behind, with white worsted pompon and with ornaments, etc., as prescribed. Fatigue cap for men: of gray cloth, with black band, etc.; for officers, of dark blue cloth. Field service uniform, of olive-drab cloth, same as U. S. army.

Strafford Guards, Dover, N. H. Organized 1822. Now wearing regulation U. S. uniform, being “Co. A, Second Infantry, N. H. N. G.”

Washington Artillery, New Orleans, La. Organized 1840. Present uniform conforms to that of U. S. army. The uniform of 1840 consisted of a single-breasted coatee of deep blue cloth with red standing collar and red cuffs; light blue trousers with red stripes; gold epaulets for officers and red for men; gold waist belt for officers and white cross belts for men; tall white shako caps with red pompon. The uniform of 1861 retained the same colors for coat and trousers but the coat was a single-breasted sack, buttoned to the neck, with standing collar; red caps of the forward slant type; gold epaulets for officers and gold shoulder knots for men; gold waist belt for officers and white waist belt and white cross belt for men. The uniform of 1875 was entirely of gray cloth, the coat being a double-breasted frock with standing collar, two rows of gilt buttons on the breast and edgings of red cloth; red trousers stripes; officers wore gilt waist belt and men white; officers wore gold-and-red shoulder knots and men red-and-white; caps of black felt, French shako pattern, with red plumes. The uniform of 1883 reverted to the two blues of earlier days, somewhat resembling in style those of 1840, excepting chiefly that the coat had three rows of gilt buttons on the chest, the men wearing red epaulets and officers gold-and-red shoulder knots, the men wearing a white waist belt only and the officers gilt; the headdress was a white helmet with gilt trimmings and red plume for officers and with gilt chin straps and gilt spike for men.