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CHAPTER XV
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES
The difference between Relevés and Entrées needs only to be examined very superficially in order for it to be seen how entirely the classification hangs on the question of bulk. Indeed, with very few exceptions, the same alimentary products—butcher’s meat, fish, poultry, and game—may be used with perfect propriety in the preparation of either Relevés or Entrées. And if the mode of preparation and the nature of the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is owing to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which the Relevés, being more voluminous, are usually braised, poëled, poached, or roasted; while the Entrées, consisting of smaller pieces, are chiefly sautéd, poached, or grilled.
In the menus of old-fashioned dinners à la Française, the line of demarcation between Relevés and Entrées was far more clearly defined, the latter being generally twice, if not thrice, as numerous as the former. The first service of a dinner for twenty people, for instance, comprised eight or twelve Entrées and four soups, all of which were set on the dining-table before the admission of the diners. As soon as the soups were served, the Relevés, to the number of four, two of which consisted of fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they relieved the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite meaningless.
The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the practice just described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more than two soups, two Relevés (one of which is fish), and two or three Entrées for the first service. Very often the fish Relevé, instead of being a large piece of fish, only consists of fillets of sole, of chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are real entrées; while the Relevés (consisting of large pieces of butcher’s meat or game), instead of being served as common sense would dictate, i.e., after the fish Relevé, when the diner’s appetite is still keen, are placed, according to English custom, after the Entrées.
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Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played
by the Relevés and Entrées respectively are very far from
being clearly defined; and I therefore resolved to treat of them
both in the same chapter, and to append a few grills (usually
accompanied by various sauces and garnishes), which are really
only luncheon-roasts. The indications given concerning the
class to which the recipes belong will suffice to avoid confusion.
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT
BEEF
1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)
Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece, trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet. The fillet may be braised, poëled, or roasted; but the last two modes of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and somewhat red towards the centre.
The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.
1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE
Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with thin strips of bacon, and poële or roast it. Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. 2253); (2) roundels of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with concassed tomatoes tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately round the fillet, and place a grilled chipolata sausage between each.
Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy taken from the poëling-stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.
1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE
Having larded the fillet and poëled or roasted it, set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips, turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé; (2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of [354] peas and of French beans, cut into lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.
Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours and throw them into relief.
Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of all grease and strained it.
1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO
Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side (Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto, per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.
Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.
Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally, leaving a space of one inch between each strand.
Poële the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws clean, the fillet is ready.
Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.
Sauce to be sent to the table separately.—The reduced poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.
1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE
Lard the fillet, poële it, and glaze it just before dishing up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the [355] poëling-liquor; (3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the last moment.
Sauce to be sent separately.—The reduced poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.
1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. 2193), combined with the ciseled lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228). Arrange the tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.
Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy slightly thickened.
1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of potato croquettes à la Dauphine, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.
Sauce to be sent separately.—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.
1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY
Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the gratin to form just in time for the dishing up.
Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.
1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE
Either roast or poële the larded fillet. If it be poëled, glaze it at the last moment.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.
Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze with Madeira.
1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE
Poële the larded fillet.
Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (4) turned and blanched olives. Each garnish should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.
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Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send
the same sauce separately.
1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME
Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the fillet, and set the latter to marinade for four or five hours in one-quarter pint of Madeira.
This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of truffle, cooked in a fine mirepoix with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.
Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to two-thirds.
1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD
Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and poële it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto, moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like olives.
Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.
Sauce to be sent separately.—A Godard sauce combined with the cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at the last minute.
Sauce to be sent separately.—Thin Soubise with paprika.
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1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) small croustades cooked in grooved brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means of velouté; (2) potato croquettes moulded to the shape of eggs and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the croustades and the croquettes alternately.
Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to the table separately.
1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes, which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white and of tight growth.
Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy, to the table, separately.
1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.
Send some tomatéd half-glaze separately.
1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE
Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it on a long dish and surround it with a Macédoine garnish. The latter comprises the same ingredients as the “Jardinière”; but, instead of their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by means of butter.
1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Lard and poële the fillet.
Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads, turned and grooved.
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Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with
the poëling-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE
Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and poële it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.
To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked as its nature requires.
Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.
Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the chartreuses in a bain-marie ten minutes before dishing the fillet.
At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.
Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles, decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the dishing of the meat.
Send to the table, separately, the poëling-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.
1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.
Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the poëling-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce) three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being added to the sauce.
1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and [359] surround it with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence of syrup), with the view of glazing them.
Send the poëling-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the table separately.
1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE
Roast the fillet “plain,” i.e., without previously larding it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice à la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered dariole-moulds, each timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter; (2) croquettes of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.
Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.
1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine mirepoix, and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.
1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices of truffle.
Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter per one-half pint.
1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—
1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.
2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and cooked in butter just before dishing up.
Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.
1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and [360] surround it with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la Provençale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).
Send a tomatéd half-glaze sauce, separately.
1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE
Marinade the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance; cover it with a Matignon (No. 227); envelop the fillet and the Matignon in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its marinade.
A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the Matignon, and glaze the fillet.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain, should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’ combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like large olives.
Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze sauce.
1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE
Lard the fillet and poële it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans; small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small potatoes cooked in butter.
Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small artichoke-bottoms included.
Send a clear gravy separately.
1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU
Lard the fillet, and either poële or roast it.
If it be poëled, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the dishing up.
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Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly
thickened, separately.
1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of cèpes, prepared à la Bordelaise at the last minute; (2) croquettes of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin, on either side. These croquettes are prepared from the same potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of lozenges, and treat them à l’anglaise, using for the purpose very fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.
Fry the croquettes just before dishing up.
Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat light.
1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots, cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales of very green peas purée (No. 2196) on either side of the fillet.
1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND
Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the meat.
To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set the bits of truffle. Marinade the fillet for three hours in Madeira; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its marinade.
This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of a julienne of truffles, and three oz. of cooked foie gras, cut into large dice.
As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine julienne of truffles instead of the latter chopped.
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1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)
Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.
For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with half-melted jelly.
Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is added.
Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base; leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly trimmed.
Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.
The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to cool naturally.
When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.
Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.
I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the operator.
FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES
1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS
By fillet steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.
They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight, and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving their shape, they may be tied round with string.
Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of [363] beef, and its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.
As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, i.e., sautéd, it is more often served as a Relevé.
The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.
The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need in any way alter the formula.
The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of croquettes and tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the croquettes, as in the case of the tournedos.
If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in tartlet-crusts, &c.
All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.
It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of fillet of beef.
It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly lengthening this work.
Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy, chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and, generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in Chapter XVII.
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Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to
Entrées of Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables
The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.
The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.
Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, macédoines, &c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served upon the diner’s plate.
With Châteaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze this objection does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain noticeable mellowness.
I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys, quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.
TOURNEDOS
1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a croquette of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.
Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes, stewed in oil.
1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE
Season and grill the tournedos.
There should have been prepared in advance as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter. Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon each tartlet.
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1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE
Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.
When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.
1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of maize with cream.
Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter, on each roundel of tomato.
Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. 71).
1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE
Season the tournedos, and grill them.
Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. 62).
In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise sauce served separately.
1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE
Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits, as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a croquette on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each croquette.
1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY
Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la Bercy” (No. 139) separately.
1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE
Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise sauce (No. 32) separately.
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1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE
Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments before dishing.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de terre fondantes” (No. 2214).
1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled, pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion, fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on fried crusts.
Place a tartlet, garnished with a fondue of tomatoes, on each tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion, and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or separately in a timbale.
1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON
Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos; (2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.
A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.
1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan; swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the circle of tournedos.
1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
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Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine,
and add to this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be
in proportion to the number of tournedos.
Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.
1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.
N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.
1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY
1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of “Duchesse potatoes” (No. 221), make as many small galettes as there are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.
Place them on a tray; gild them, and set them to brown in the oven a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.
2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, paysanne fashion; parboil them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of Provençale sauce.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, on the galettes of potato, and cover them with the paysanne of chow-chow.
1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41).
1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and fried in butter.
On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos.
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Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts)
cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly
sprinkled with chopped parsley.
1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE
Prepare (1) as many subrics of shredded spinach as there are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round croquettes of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the spinach subrics. The croquettes of semolina may be arranged either in the middle or all round.
1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE
Season the tournedos, and sauté them. Set them on crusts fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter.
The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the noodles all round, or vice versâ.
1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE
Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light “Duchesse-potatoes” paste.
With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped croquettes as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.
Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared croquettes, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle.
Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuces.
1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV
Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.
Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.
N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may be served separately.
1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each [369] tournedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.
1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ
Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.
1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES
Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.
Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.
Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.
1101—TOURNEDOS LILI
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos.
On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.
1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles, and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.
1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE
For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans. For these timbales the purée of haricot beans [370] must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered dariole-moulds, and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance.
(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two garnishes.
1104—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.
1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter; and olive-shaped truffles.
When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a cocotte with the garnish above described.
Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce the whole, strain it into the cocotte, and put the latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two.
1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA
Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large slice of poached marrow.
Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very stiff Béarnaise sauce.
1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE
Put into an earthenware cocotte the following vegetables, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or “Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas.
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All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.
Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam inside the cocotte, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well closed.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the cocotte at the last moment.