1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS
Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an abundant garnish.
Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.
Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor cleared of all grease and reduced.
1165—SALT BEEF
The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less lengthy period, according to their size.
To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—
1166—SUET DUMPLING
Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.
Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of [387] about the same consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half hours.
Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.
1167—COLD SALT BEEF
Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for luncheons.
It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat, in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a hatelet.
1168—PRESSED BEEF
Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for this purpose, the breast is generally used.
After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed. Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.
When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all sides, and glaze it, i.e., cover it entirely with a coating of rather firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a nice red-brown colour.
1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING
Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.
Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish the bottom and sides of the basin with the slices of beef.
In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton, cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just sufficient water to cover.
Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater [388] certainty, the respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.
This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil. Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.
1170—STEAK PUDDING
Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt, and one-quarter pint of water.
With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.
Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.
Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly with string.
Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet, and for four hours if cut from any other piece.
At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan and remove the cloth.
Dish on a folded napkin.
1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING
Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs. of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.
1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE
Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to marinade for two or three hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the marinading liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz. of [389] grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves of garlic. Add the marinaded pieces of meat, which should have been properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven or eight minutes, and moisten with the marinade and two glasses more of red wine.
Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, blanched and cut into square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a moderate oven for six or seven hours.
When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan itself.
1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE
A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the remains of one already served hot are used.
Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a terrine à pâté with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have remained almost untouched.
Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing lightly the while, and leave to cool.
When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround with chopped aspic jelly.
1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE
Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well browned.
Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.
Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried; swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference); add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar; set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices of beef and the onions.
Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three hours.
N.B.—Carbonnades are served thus, mingled with the onions; but they may also be dished in a timbale and covered [390] with a Soubise consisting of the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.
1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF
Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.
In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.
Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish, which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast meat is used.
Sauces suited to Émincés are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.
1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON
For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss them in butter until they are evenly and well gilded.
Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.
The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.
Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.
A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions; cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.
N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce for as long as possible—an hour or more if necessary.
The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the gratin to form.
1177—GOULASH DE BŒUF A LA HONGROISE
Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz. of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice, until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. [391] Season with one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and one-sixth pint of water.
Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.
This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of quartered potatoes to the Goulash.
Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced. When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.
1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE
Cut the meat into small cubes.
Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.
Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.
This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of freshly-chopped parsley.
1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER
Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.
The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.
Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar. Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells with the preparation.
Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of it as the hash will absorb.
Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin.
1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN
In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections.
[392]
In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so
much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence;
secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those
of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of
the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improvement
on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to
the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby
those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied.
It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet beforehand,
the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe,
and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before
serving.
Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.
By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’être in this case.
The Preparation of Tripe.—Under the head of “beef tripe” are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.
First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side.
For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.
Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.
The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.
In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.
Treatment and Cooking-process.—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.
On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.
[393]
Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the
tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices
of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the
moistening.
Cover the whole with a kind of galette of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.
Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.
In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.
The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.
When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bain-marie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.
N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.
I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.
(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.
The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.