1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU
Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are the best.
Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; [415] slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the mould.
Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.
Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind of dome.
Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the garnish.
Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach.
Garnish.—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, mousseline forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.
Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.
N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.
(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be altered or modified.
[416]
1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU
Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.
The preparation of the paste: Make the vol au vent crust as explained under No. 2390.
Garnish.—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the dominating element.
Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in court-bouillon.
Dishing.—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.
1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU
Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the cocotte.
When the sweetbreads are in the cocotte, together with the julienne of vegetables and a julienne of truffles, strain the braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.
Dish the cocotte on a napkin.
1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE
Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop.
Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in advance.
Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out.
[417]
1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE
Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread.
Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and cover with a roundel of tongue.
Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.
Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.
Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.
Calf’s Liver.
Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée.
Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé, braised and whole.
1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE
Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan garnished for braising. (No. 247.)
Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of the moistening.
It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above the middle of the piece of liver.
When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter.
The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in proportion to the size of the piece of liver.
Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish.
N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.
On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois dishes.
[418]
1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz. to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon.
Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a brown butter.
1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU
Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.
Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of blanched salted breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms. Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become coated with Duxelles.
This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently.
These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.
1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE
Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and grill them gently.
Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley.
Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish; place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions, on the other, the fried parsley.
1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES
Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.
Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.
1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU
For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s liver into dice, and finely pound these together with [419] one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little, five oz. of very cold frangipan panada, and two eggs.
Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter, without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick cream, added by degrees.
Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a bain-marie, for about forty-five minutes.
When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes, that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper, or other sauce.
1253—CÔTES DE VEAU
Veal cutlets may either be grilled or sautéd, but the second method of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.
When they are sautéd, the cutlets should be cooked in clarified butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to hold them without crowding.
This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been cooked; swill the saucepan, i.e., dissolve the concentrated gravy adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine, or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze, but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately buttered.
All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal cutlets.
1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME
Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered.
Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.
[420]
1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from time to time.
At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and serve in the saucepan.
1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the cocotte, with two small slices of blanched salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two small, long potatoes, cut paysanne-fashion; and complete the cooking of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven.
Send the preparation to the table in the cocotte.
1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX
Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and blanched olives.
Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over the garnish.
1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE
With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan, and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities.
Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it.
Milanaise garnish consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a julienne of very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in Madeira.
1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:—
(1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and sliced mushroom.
(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the cutlet.
(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and well-oiled.
[421]
Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof,
lay a slice of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the
latter; put the cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder
of the Duxelles, and finish with the other slice of ham.
Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the papillote in a fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish, and serve instantly.
1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI
Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter, salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over very carefully in the process.
Dish with a suitable garnish.
1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA
Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter.
Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.
Zingara sauce is prepared thus: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of veal stock, one oz. of a julienne of tongue, mushrooms and truffles; and set to boil for a few seconds.
1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE
Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to fix them.
Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let it lie with its decorated side undermost.
Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set.
This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone.
[422]
1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS
Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic.
Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two layers of aspic as explained above.
N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. 1217).
1264—ROGNON DE VEAU
When sautéd after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.)
I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to veal kidney.
1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all round it.
Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called “cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while.
At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve it in the cocotte as it stands.
1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE
Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the “en casserole” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small pieces of blanched bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of small blanched potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the whole gently.
At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve the cocotte as it stands.
1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ
Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves, and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape.
Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the while with melted butter.
[423]
Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other
butter suited to grills.
1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE
Prepare the veal kidney as for “en casserole.” One minute before serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the cooking-utensil.
1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER
Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.
Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.
1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE
Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner described under No. 1269.
Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very reduced tomato fondue. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as directed above.
1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT
Heat one oz. of butter in a small cocotte; put the seasoned veal kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven, and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:—
Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the cocotte on a spirit lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy, and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate.
Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard, one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a fork, with the view of effecting the leason.
Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the [424] gravy that has drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on very hot plates.
1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU
The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum.
If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an ordinary veal sauté, from which they only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may be adapted to them.
The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served with them.
1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE
Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then, slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and skim.
For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and one-half hours.
Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while.
Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or cèpes, instead of with ordinary mushrooms.
1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.
Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, [425] i.e., either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut into pieces and well blanched. The endives are not blanched; they need only be well washed and put with the veal.
When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed and strained over the meat.
1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES
Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of onions and mushrooms.
When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those cohered.
1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU
Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.
When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz. of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes; then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette.
1277—FRICADELLES
Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner:—
Fricadelles with Raw Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration.
Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and one-half oz.
Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out with the flat of a knife.
Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the [426] fricadelles therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in the oven.
This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.
Fricadelles with Cooked Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat finely.
Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in the previous case.
These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat.
1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU
Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always braised, gently and protractedly.
They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.
By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine garnish, etc.
1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU
The pieces best suited to veal sautés are: the breast and the shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and undercushion.
1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO
Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.
Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for [427] the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot.
Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of concassed parsley, and cook for a further quarter of an hour.
When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and surround with small heart-shaped croûtons of bread-crumb, fried in oil.
1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR
Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.
Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of Chasseur sauce (No. 33).
Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER
Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further three-quarters of an hour.
Dish in a timbale and distribute over the sauté a few tablespoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked à l’anglaise.
1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up, sauté, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours, as for No. 1280.
Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add [428] to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages.
Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a timbale.
1284—SAUTÉS DE VEAU DIVERS
Veal sauté may also be prepared with mushrooms, fines herbes, egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.
1285—PAIN DE VEAU
Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but substitute for the liver some very white veal.
Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.
1286—CALF’S FEET
Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of calf’s head.
1287—CALVES’ TONGUES
Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)
1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES
Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep.
The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied to it.
1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS
Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes, and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling [429] court-bouillon (No. 163) to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.
Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer.
1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT
Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of gratin force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the brains by putting the coated slices together again.
Roll some puff-paste remains into a galette one-fifth of an inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the galette, and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices; sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.
Gild; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin.
1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR
Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt and pepper.
Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley pluches, and sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains.
1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE
Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley.
1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE
Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
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1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE
Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.
Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY
Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.
Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them à l’anglaise. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley.
Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.
1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE
Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved.
Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.
1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA
Poach one lb. of amourettes, as explained above, and cut them into lengths of one in.
Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of the pieces of amourettes. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of amourettes, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.