1393—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA CHARCUTIERE
Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle them with fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them from time to time.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcutière sauce in their midst, and serve a timbale of potato purée separately.
Charcutière sauce for eight or ten cutlets: prepare one pint of Robert sauce (No. 52) and mix with it, just before dishing up, two oz. of gherkins, cut in short julienne fashion or minced.
1394—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE
Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.
Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three oz. of the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware dish. Set upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat, and complete their cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the oven.
Serve the dish as it stands.
1395—CÔTES DE PORC FRAIS A LA MILANAISE
Treat the cutlets à l’anglaise, but remember to add one quart of grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in butter.
Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. 1258) in the centre, and serve a tomato sauce separately.
1396—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE OR ROBERT SAUCE
Season and grill or sauté the cutlets. Dish them in a circle, with Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst.
N.B.—(1) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-mentioned sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-crumbs [459] and grilled or sautéd; but, in this case, the sauce should be served separately.
(2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which they are served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separately or on the dish.
(3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may accompany grilled or sautéd pork cutlets.
1397—SUCKING PIG
Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole, and the essential point of the procedure is that they should be just done when their skin is crisp and golden.
While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil; the latter being used in preference to any other fatty substance owing to the greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking pig.
Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time.
1398—ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIG A L’ANGLAISE
For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following forcemeat:—Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins, and let them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and put them in a basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, one lb. of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four oz. of parboiled and chopped sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking pig. Sew up the latter’s belly; put it on the spit, and roast as directed above.
Serve separately, either a timbale of apple sauce or of mashed potatoes. Four oz. per lb. of selected raisins, washed and swelled in tepid water, are sometimes combined with the apple sauce.
1399—ZAMPINO DE MODÈNE
Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian pork-butchery.
It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin lest its skin burst.
Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce, a garnish of boiled, braised, or gratined cabbages; of French beans, or of potato purée.
1400—ZAMPINO FROID
Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats; but it is used more particularly as a hors-d’œuvre. For this purpose, cut it into the thinnest possible slices.
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1401—OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE
After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig’s ears, cook them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. of salt per quart, together with a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. This done, cut them across in suchwise as to have the end where the flesh is thickest on one side, and the thinnest end on the other side of the strips.
Chop up the thick portion; cut the other into collops, and put the whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.
Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the minced ears, one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch of chopped parsley. Divide up the whole into portions, weighing three oz; wrap each portion in a piece of pig’s caul, insert a collop of ear into the wrapping, and give the latter the shape of ordinary crépinettes. Grill gently, until the cooking is three-parts done; sprinkle with butter and raspings, and complete the cooking of the crépinettes, colouring them in so doing.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.
1402—OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD
Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool.
Cut them in two, lengthwise; coat them with mustard; sprinkle them with melted butter and raspings, and grill them gently.
Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied by apple sauce.
1403—PIEDS DE PORC TRUFFÉS
Truffled pig’s trotters may be bought already prepared; all that remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them.
Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently, basting them from time to time the while, and serve them with a Périgueux sauce.
1404—PIEDS DE PORC PANES
Sprinkle the pig’s trotters copiously with melted butter, and put them on the grill, which should be very hot.
Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve them plain, or with a tomato purée separately.
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Boudins.
1405—BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE
Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh pork, and three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and one-half oz. of foie gras, and rub through a fine sieve.
Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh eggs; one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration; one-sixth pint of thick cream; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well; put it into the gut, without overfilling the latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now set the boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a receptacle full of boiling water. From this moment keep the water at 203° F., and let the boudins poach for twelve minutes. This done, withdraw them, and let them cool.
Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a precautionary measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not cisel them, but prick them with a pin.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time.
1406—BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE
Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-quarters lb. of fresh fat bacon.
Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with the view of thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration, together with a little thyme and bay; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and add four eggs, one by one, working the forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle.
Rub through a fine sieve; return the forcemeat to the mortar, and add thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very cold milk.
Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the bain-marie, and set it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the preceding recipe.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time as the boudins.
1407—BOUDINS NOIRS
Make the following preparation, putting the various ingredients into a basin:—One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into large dice, and half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two eggs; six oz. of chopped onions, cooked in lard without colouration; [462] two-thirds oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice; a pinch of wild-thyme leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped.
Mix the whole well with one pint of blood of pork, and put it into the gut without over-filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the preparation swells in poaching.
Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them into boiling water, and, from that time, keep the latter at 203° F.
Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick all those that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air, which might burst their skins. When about to serve them, cisel them on both sides, and grill them very gently.
They are generally accompanied by a potato purée with cream.
1408—BOUDINS NOIRS A L’ANGLAISE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given above, and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in consommé and kept somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to cool. Cisel the boudins, and grill them over a moderate fire.
Serve very hot with an apple purée.
1409—BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and add to it three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the same quantity of currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm water.
Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual way.
When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the manner of black boudins, and send them to the table with a sugared apple sauce.
Crépinettes and Sausages.
1410—CRÉPINETTES TRUFFÉES
Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of chopped truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-liquor. Mix the whole well; divide into portions weighing two and one-half oz., and wrap each portion in a square of pig’s caul. Shape the crépinettes thus formed rectangularly. Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill gently.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst, and serve a potato purée with cream separately.
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1411—CRÉPINETTES A LA CENDRILLON
Prepare the crépinettes as above; wrap them in a double sheet of buttered paper; over them set a heap of cinders covered with burning embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of twenty minutes, when the cooking operation should be completed.
Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but nowadays the crépinettes are merely enveloped, each in an oval layer of paste. They are then gilded, their tops are streaked, and, after having been laid on a tray, they are baked in a warm oven for twenty minutes.
This done, they are dished on a napkin.
1412—SAUCISSES ANGLAISES
The most well-known of English sausages are those of Cambridge.
They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often served at breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too, they serve as a garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c.
Their seasoning is often excessive.
1413—SAUCISSES AU VIN BLANC
First Method.—Put the sausages in a well-buttered sautépan; poach them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin crusts of bread fried in butter.
For twelve sausages, swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-glaze sauce; boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over the sausages.
Second Method.—Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-third pint of white wine, and complete their poaching. Set them on fried crusts; reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add thereto the yolk of one egg, a few drops of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze, and three oz. of butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages.
1414—SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG
Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and then poach them for no more than ten minutes; should they be allowed to cook for a longer time, they would only lose their quality.
They may be served with a hors-d’œuvre dish of grated horse-radish, and an apple sauce separately; but their proper adjunct is braised sauerkraut.