A guide to modern cookery

1653—GIBLET PIE

Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.

This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to the edge of the dish; gild; streak, and bake in a moderately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1654—BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUX

These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.

Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.

If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according to fancy.

Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille

1655—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA RICHELIEU

Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom salpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, as follows:—Line the bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with salpicon; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.

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Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.

Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE

Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the salpicon inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.

Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.

Serve a clear Soubise separately.

1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND

Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken mousseline forcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.

Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.

Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.

1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈS

Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.

Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fine Julienne of truffles.

1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE

Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.

1660—CHICKEN PIE

Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and [525] one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; gild; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.

When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ

In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.

If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.

They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).

The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.

Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.

1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ A LA GRECQUE

About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.

Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fine blanched cocks’ combs, poëled after the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.

Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTE

Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.

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Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.

Meanwhile, prepare twelve croûtons of bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry these croûtons in butter at the last minute.

Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.

Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.

1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.

Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.

Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.

They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.

1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS

The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.

The preparation from which they are made is as follows:—One lb. of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[Footnote 1]; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut [527] these various products like the chicken, and mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the cooling.

When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into an anglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and jardinières.

Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)

1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE

Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).

1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU VIN ROUGE

Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.

N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared sautés chasseur; sautés fines herbes, au gratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s kidneys for these preparations.

1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULET A L’ANCIENNE

For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a sauté, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.

About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, [528] cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.

Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.

1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSES

Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.

Dish in a timbale.

1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE

Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and marinade these in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of the marinade through it.

A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well gilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked fowl which were marinaded beforehand.

1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE

Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service, i.e., for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.

In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.

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1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Mould and poach the Mousselines. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of the mousselines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.

1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE

Prepare the mousselines as above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA

When the mousselines are poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop of suprême, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI

Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.

1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE

Prepare the mousselines as above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.

1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE

Prepare and poach the mousselines in the usual way. Garnish the bottom of some barquettes with Mornay sauce, and put a mousseline into each barquette.

Set a collop of fowl on each mousseline, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the soufflé, and serve instantly.

1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE

Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of the barquettes must be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.

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1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLE

Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”

1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE

Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.

1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE

Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.

Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.

1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE

Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and concassed tomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.

Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.

Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.

1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE

Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.

N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale with tomatéd pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.

Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.

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1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLE

For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.

N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken soufflés with cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.

For a soufflé made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT

Prepare two lbs. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.

1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT

Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.

Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.

Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chicken soufflés.

1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE A LA PÉRIGORD

This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.

Cold Preparations of Fowl.

1687—POULARDE A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach the pullet; raise the suprêmes and remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish mousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.

Cause a mousse to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of [532] suprême neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.

Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.

1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE

Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. Poële it in champagne; put it in a cocotte; cover it with its poëling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.

On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.

Serve this pullet very cold, in the same cocotte in which it has cooled.

1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID

Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.

Old method of dishing: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.

They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.

The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.

Modern method of dishing: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.

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This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.

1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the suprêmes, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with a salpicon consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.

Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.

Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.

Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.

1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURE

Raise the suprêmes of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of the suprême. Wrap each suprême, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.

This done, take off the muslin, and cut each suprême into ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a mousse of chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.

Clothe a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.

When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.

1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD

Raise the suprêmes of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.

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Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.

Prepare a slab of mousse (made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this mousse neatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to the suprêmes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on the mousse by means of jelly.

Now coat each suprême garnished with mousse with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.

Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA ROSSINI

Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.

1694—POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRE

Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.

When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with six small, ham mousses and six small, chicken mousses, moulded in deep dariole-moulds, and arranged alternately.

Border the dish with croûtons of jelly, cut very neatly.

1695—POULETS A L’ÉCARLATE

Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.

This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.

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Border the dish with fine croûtons of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.

1696—POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE

Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.

Raise the suprêmes, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chicken mousse, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Cut the suprêmes into thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the mousse, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

1697—POULARDE A LA NEVA

Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.

Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.

Border the dish with neatly-cut croûtons of pale jelly.

1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAI

Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its suprêmes and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a mousse of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Slice the suprêmes; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the same mousse as that already used for the pullet, as many small, barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.

Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with the barquettes of mousse, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each barquette, and distribute croûtons of jelly over the dish.

1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIE

Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its suprêmes; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish [536] it with very smooth and pink, ham mousse, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.

Mould in small, oval moulds, as many barquettes of the same ham mousse as there are collops.

When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.

Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the barquettes of ham mousse around it; set a collop on each mousse and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with croûtons of aspic.

1700—POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR

Poële the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.

Meanwhile, sauté fifteen larks in a mirepoix; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.

With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a mousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When the mousse has set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the mousse; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.

Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1701—POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA GELÉE

Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.

In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and poële in Madeira for one and one-half hours.

Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it.

[537]
Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.

Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).

Serve the terrine in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.

1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE

Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.

This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.

1703—AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its suprêmes and leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin the suprêmes, and coat them with a little jelly.

Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfish mousse. Upon this mousse, set the two suprêmes, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER

Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the suprêmes just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.

With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken mousse, and mould it in a dome-mould. When the mousse is set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on the mousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.

Cover the mousse on top, and the gaps between the points of the suprêmes with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of the mousse, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a small hatelet.

1705—ASPIC DE POULET A L’ITALIENNE

Clothe a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), [538] and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse julienne of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.

When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.

1706—ASPIC DE POULET A LA GAULOISE

Clothe an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.

When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine croûtons of aspic.

1707—MÉDAILLONS DE VOLAILLE RACHEL

Prepare some chicken suprêmes as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.

Prepare a mousse from the meat of the legs. Spread this mousse on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.

Set a medallion on each roundel of mousse, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.

In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps between the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of asparagus-heads with cream.

Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.

1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE

For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.

The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.

This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a [539] small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.

Season these pieces and marinade them in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets were marinaded.

Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.

Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.

With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh blanched pork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.

At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.

The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.