[540]
1709—PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID
Poële a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the poëling-liquor.
Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be expressed.
Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little, six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce. Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.
Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already clothed with jelly and incrusted in ice.
Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice surrounded by fine croûtons of jelly.
N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be applied to any piece of poultry or game.
1710—SUPRÊME DE VOLAILLE JEANNETTE
Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its suprêmes, and cut each into four collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, blanched, cooled, well-drained and very green.
Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted chicken jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of carved ice.
[541]
1711—MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE
The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in the preparation of this mousse, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and more distinct.
The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl mousse are those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).
The various mousse recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815) may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with jelly, and soberly decorated.
These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very long list of them I may quote:—
- Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.
- Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.
1712—MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE
Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with ciseled lettuce, arranging it in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.
Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.
Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard and fast rule can be given.
When about to serve, mix as for a salad.
1713—CHICKEN SALAD
This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added just before mixing and serving.
1714—PÂTÉ DE POULET
Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to leave a fine crest.
Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the suprêmes (each cut into three collops) to marinade in a glass [542] of brandy, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into four or five thick slices.
With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (i.e., a quantity equal in weight to all the other meats put together), prepare a very smooth forcemeat; chopping the whole first, then pounding it and rubbing it through a sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle essence; the marinade of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.
Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully gild the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.
N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre results.
In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of its weight of gratin forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.
Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.
1714a—CHICKEN PIE
See No. 1660.
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1715—DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)
Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.
Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed “à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la Jardinière.
In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.
1716—DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS
Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts; immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently the while.
Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.
1717—DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce. Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.
Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered mushrooms, sautéd in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé; twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.
Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.
1718—DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA
This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be intended for lunch or for dinner.
(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above. Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of tomatéd half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the oven for forty minutes.
[544]
This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add
thereto twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked
in consommé, ten chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled
pieces of fresh pork cut into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and
glazed carrots. Strain the sauce over the whole, complete the
cooking and dish in a timbale.
(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the reduced braising-liquor.
1719—DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE
Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the centre of the garnish.
Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a terrine just large enough to hold it and its moistening.
With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the terrine; cover and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a hot oven for two and one-half hours.
Leave to cool in the terrine, and, when about to serve, slightly heat the latter in order to turn out the daube.
1720—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE
Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully cleared of all tendons, prepare a mousseline forcemeat; spread the latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.
Braise or poële the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care, keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.
[545]
When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a
fine rosette of a purée of peas in the centre of each medallion.
Set these medallions in a circle on a round dish, around a
little bowl of carved, fried bread, garnished with the same
purée of peas.
Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.
1721—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE
Poële the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its suprêmes, skin them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.
Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, sautéd in butter, between each.
Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread of light glaze.
1722—AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DORÉS A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS
The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called; that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury luncheon entrées that can be served.
The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.
Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.
In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting often the while.
The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.
When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat.
Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of marrons separately.
[546]
1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID
All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.
Goose (Oie)
The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie gras.
Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.
1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE
Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.
Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.
When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve it separately.
1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE
Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter and poële. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.
1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE
Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven.
Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.
1724—OISON EN CIVET
When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite cold.
[547]
Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet
de Lièvre” (No. 1821).
1725—OISON AU RAIFORT
Braise the gosling.
Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138), separately.
N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like young turkeys, i.e., with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.
1726—FOIE GRAS
Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.
Foies gras are used in the preparation of terrines, raised pies, parfaits and mousses, which are among the most delicate and richest of cold dishes.
They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of collops or mousseline quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as hot entrées.
When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed, studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered, seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy, together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed terrine.
When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a thoroughly-sealed terrine before cooking it.
The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served whole and hot, is to bake it in a crust of paste that can absorb the excess of grease produced by the melting of the liver. For this purpose prepare two layers of patty paste, a little larger than the liver.
On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of bacon; and, if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized truffles, peeled. Set half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the edges of the paste; cover the whole with the other layer of paste; seal it down with the thumb, and fold over the edges of the paste to form a regular, ornamented border which, besides [548] finishing off the preparation, also increases the strength of the welding.
Gild the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape of the steam; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in a good, moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.
Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.
In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top of the crust, cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece on each plate, and arranges around each piece the garnish mentioned on the menu.
I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a terrine when it is to be served hot. In any case the method described above strikes me as being much the best, whatever be the garnish that is served with the liver.
I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni, lazagnes, spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.
These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished with cream.
This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more digestible and palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras, besides those given above, are truffles, whole or in slices, or a Financière. In the matter of brown sauces, a Madeira sauce suits admirably, provided it be of great delicacy and not overcharged with Madeira; but a very light buttered, veal or chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry or old Port, is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an excellent suprême sauce may also be served when the garnish admits of it.
1727—FOIE GRAS CUIT DANS UNE BRIOCHE
For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently; the result is almost the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed above, except that it is much more delicate. This method, moreover, allows of obtaining a foie gras clear of all grease (the latter being completely absorbed by the paste), and is therefore best suited to cold dishing.
After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed it in a closed terrine as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it to poach in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to cool.
Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to that of the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared brioche paste (No. 2370).
Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should almost fill; close the timbale with a cover of the same paste; [549] make a slit in the top; surround the top of the mould with a band of strong, buttered paper, that the paste may be prevented from running over, and let it rest for about thirty minutes in a temperature of 86° F. to allow the paste to work.
Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through the centre withdraws quite clean.
Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-gras garnishes.
1728—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw foie gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll in finely-chopped truffle, and sauté in clarified butter.
Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.
1729—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA RAVIGNAN
From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in. thick, cut twenty roundels two and one-half in. in diameter. On ten of these roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat, leaving a margin one-third in. wide of bare paste on each roundel.
Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw foie gras on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat of forcemeat over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining roundels, after having slightly moistened the latter, that the two edges of paste may be sealed. Press with the back of a round cutter; gild, and cook in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.
1730—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA TALLEYRAND
Prepare: (1) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in diameter; (2) a garnish of blanched macaroni, cut into lengths of one in., cohered with four oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheese per lb. of macaroni, and combined with two oz. of butter, four oz. of a julienne of truffles and four oz. of foie gras cut into large dice.
Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras sautéd in butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put the macaroni in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle with grated cheese and glaze quickly.
Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken glaze, flavoured with truffles and well buttered.
[550]
1731—SOUFFLÉ DE FOIE GRAS
Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz. of raw truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purées in a basin, and add two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded with the whites of four eggs, and rubbed through a fine sieve. Season; work the preparation on ice, and add to it, little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and very fresh cream, then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.
Dish in a buttered soufflé saucepan, and poach under cover in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1732—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS A L’ALSACIENNE
Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve, fill it with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate layers of foie-gras collops, sautéd in butter, and slices of truffles. Complete with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and distributed over the last layer of cohered noodles.
Cover the timbale, and serve a suprême sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1733—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS CAMBACÉRÈS
Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached macaroni.
These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be garnished inside with very black truffle purée, cohered by means of a little forcemeat.
When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of chicken forcemeat combined with truffle purée. Put the mould for a few minutes in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may poach.
Reduce one-third pint of Béchamel sauce, combined with four to five tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to half; mix therewith one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into lengths of one inch, and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and truffle purée, made from trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.
Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in layers, separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops, poached in Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish with a layer of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie, allowing forty-five minutes for a quart-mould.
Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it; turn out the timbale upon a round dish; surround it with a [551] border of Périgueux sauce, and serve a sauceboat of Périgueux sauce separately.
1734—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS MONTESQUIEU
Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken forcemeat upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface with some white of egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and press on the latter by means of the flat of a knife.
Set to poach gently; cool, and then stamp out with a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting roundels, garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould, placing their truffled sides against the mould. Then, with the view of binding these roundels together, as they are to constitute the outside of the timbale, coat the whole of the mould inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat, combined with a quarter of its bulk of foie-gras purée.
Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with truffles cut into very large dice and cohered by means of mousseline chicken forcemeat.
Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that used for the purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach under cover.
Turn out, following the same precautions as above; surround the timbale with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce with paprika, and send a sauceboat of this sauce to the table at the same time.
Foie Gras Froid
1735—ASPIC DE FOIE GRAS
Clothe an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central tube) with aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and truffle. Fill it with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles, or shells raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water, separating each row with a coat of aspic.
Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the preparation of aspic is always the same as that described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954).
For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the same way.
1736—FOIE GRAS GASTRONOME
Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, i.e., one without a crust; trim it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it with a chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according to fancy, and glaze it with cold melted jelly.
Cut out a crust, proportionate in size to the egg, and shape [552] it like a cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different colour; deck it with softened butter, applied by means of a piping-bag fitted with a narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the dish, and place the foie-gras egg upon it.
Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed with aspic jelly.
1737—FOIE GRAS AU PAPRIKA
Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large sliced Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.
This done, set it instantly in an oval terrine, after having carefully removed every bit of onion; cover it with its own grease; fill up the terrine with jelly, and leave to cool.
Keep in the cool until ready for serving.
N.B.—In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a hors-d’œuvre, with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed. The foie gras is left to cool in the terrine in which it has cooked, with all its grease, and it is served thus, very cold.
This piece of information was kindly given to me by Madame Katinka.
1738—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS MARÉCHALE
From a terrine of very firm foie gras cut the required number of collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of “pain de foie gras” (No. 1741) with the remains of the terrine, and cover the collops with the preparation, shaping the latter in a dome upon them. Coat these garnished collops with cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate with a slice of truffle, and glaze with aspic.
With some foie-gras purée prepare some balls (of the shape of bigaroons); in the centre of each place a little ball of truffle in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with a reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with jelly.
Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very cold dish; arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion, and border the dish with fine, jelly croûtons.
1739—MOUSSE DE FOIE GRAS
For the preparation of the mousse, see No. 814. The procedure and the quantities are always the same, and only the principal ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected in the same way in a jelly-clothed and decorated mould, [553] generally just large enough to hold the requisite amount for one service, or in a silver timbale, incrusted in ice.
1740—MOUSSELINES DE FOIE GRAS
I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same from which mousses and mousselines are prepared, and I have pointed out wherein the difference between them lies.
Just like the other mousselines, those of foie gras are made in egg- or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-gras mousselines are, according to circumstances, either simply glazed with aspic, or coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished in a timbale with jelly. They may also be moulded in little paper cases.
1741—PAIN DE FOIE GRAS
From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops and put them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease, reduce to half, and add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb. of butter, proceeding as for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut, two leaves of dissolved gelatine, and, when the preparation is only lukewarm, mix therewith (without working the whole overmuch) what remains of the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.
Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-clothed and decorated mould, separating each layer with other alternate layers consisting of the reserved collops and some slices of truffle.
Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a refrigerator for a few hours.
When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with fine, aspic jelly croûtons.
1742—PARFAIT DE FOIE GRAS
Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when sent from a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is, therefore, difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on their preparation, to obtain the results which are achieved by manufacturers who are renowned for this kind of produce. Consequently, it is preferable to buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-made from a good firm rather than to try to make it oneself.
1743—PAVÉ DE FOIE GRAS LUCULLUS
Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom of a square timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon this jelly spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras purée, thinned by means of a little melted jelly. When this purée has set, lay on it a few foie-gras collops and slices of [554] truffle; cover with aspic, and continue thus with alternate layers of purée, collops, and aspic. Fill up the mould with a layer of aspic jelly; put it in the refrigerator for a few hours, and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a flagstone.
1744—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS TZARINE
Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover the inside all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the middle set a fresh foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice; surround it with quails stuffed with a piece of truffle, and set upright with their breasts against the slices of bacon. Fill up the mould with whole, raw, and peeled truffles; cover the whole with a round slice of the same bacon; cover the timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.
On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some succulent veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and sufficiently gelatinous to form a nice jelly.
Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.
Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)
Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery, viz., the Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds of wild duck. The latter are generally used for roasts and in salmis.
The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than as an entrée. The characteristic trait of its preparation lies in its being kept very underdone, and it is very rarely braised. It is killed by suffocation, and not by bleeding, which is the usual mode of killing other birds.
The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is not so fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, poëled, or braised.
1745—CANETON NANTAIS A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Take a piece of manied butter the size of an egg, and insert it into the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss the bird as for an entrée; brown it in the oven, and put it in a stewpan already lined for braising.
Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and Rhine wine (in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter), or ordinary good white wine, and braise slowly until cooking is completed.
[555]
Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut
with one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.
When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its cooking with one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint of white wine, until this moistening is completely reduced.
Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround it with the pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved duck in the centre, and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce combined with the reduced braising-liquor. Send the remains of this sauce separately.
1746—CANETON D’AYLESBURY POËLÉ A LA MENTHE
Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a pinch of chopped mint, and poële it. Dish it; swill the stewpan with one-sixth pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon juice; strain, add a pinch of chopped mint, and pour this sauce over the duckling.
1747—CANETON MOLIÈRE
Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-meat. Set two rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part of the forcemeat, lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct; sew up the skin, wrap in a serviette, after the manner of a galantine, and poach in a stock made from the carcass.
Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a Madeira sauce, and add thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.
Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from it, and coat it with this sauce.
1748—CANETON BRAISÉ AUX NAVETS
Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from the saucepan.
Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add two-thirds pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a faggot; return the duck to this sauce, and braise gently.
With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped like elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large pinch of powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice, light brown colour. Also have ready twenty small onions, which should have been gently cooked in butter.
When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another saucepan; put the turnips and the onions round it; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently.
[556]
Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round
the bird.
1749—CANETON AUX OLIVES
Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and succulent. A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of stoned and blanched olives. Glaze the duckling at the last moment, and dish it surrounded with the olives and the sauce.
1750—CANETON BRAISÉ A L’ORANGE
This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duckling, which is also served “a l’orange,” for the two dishes are quite distinct.
As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared with Seville oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange must not appear as garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only the juice is used for the sauce.
Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and two-thirds pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to allow of its being cut with a spoon.
Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence; rub it through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and one half-lemon to it, which should bring the sauce back to its original consistence.
Now add a julienne of the blanched yellow part only of the rind of a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the addition of the juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon only takes place at the last moment, after which the sauce must not boil again. Glaze the duckling, dish it, coat it slightly with sauce, and surround it with sections of orange, skinned raw.
Serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1751—CANETON AUX PETITS POIS
Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into large dice and blanched, and fifteen small onions. Drain the pork and the onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same butter. When it is well coloured, remove the butter; swill with a little brown stock, and add one-half pint of thin, half-glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of fresh peas, one faggot, the pork dice and the onions, and complete the cooking of the whole gently.
Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the sauce, after having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and reduced the sauce so that it only just covers the garnish.
[557]
1752—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE CANETON
Roast the duckling, keeping it somewhat underdone, and cut the whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices. Line a buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover the whole of the inside with a layer of gratin forcemeat (No. 202), combined with four tablespoonfuls of very reduced half-glaze sauce per one and two-thirds lb. of forcemeat—the necessary quantity for this pie.
On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of breast; sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and fill the mould in this way, taking care to alternate the layers of forcemeat, slices of breast, &c. Complete with a coat of forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer of paste, sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top; gild, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.
When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down on a dish; detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and set these triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus bared, with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large, grooved, cooked mushroom just in the middle, and surround it with a crown of sliced truffle.
Serve a Madeira sauce separately.
1753—BALLOTINES DE CANETON
Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all meat.
Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together with half its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as much panada (No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of salt, and a little pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a sieve, and mix with this forcemeat, three oz. of gratin foie-gras forcemeat and three oz. of chopped mushrooms, sautéd in butter. Divide up into portions weighing two oz.; wrap each portion in a piece of the duckling’s skin; envelop in muslin, and poach in a stock prepared from the duckling’s carcass. At the last moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the ballotines.
Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be turnips, peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.
1754—CANETON ROUENNAIS
Except for the one case when they are served cold “à la cuiller,” Rouen ducklings are not braised: they are roasted and always kept underdone. When they have to be stuffed, the forcemeat is prepared as follows:—Fry four oz. of larding [558] bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped onion, and add one-half lb. of sliced ducks’ livers, a pinch of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a little spice.
Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole half-cool; pound, and rub through a fine sieve.
1755—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS A LA BIGARRADE
Poële the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind that twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized bird. Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and set the latter on a lukewarm dish.
Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the poëling-liquor; set to boil for a few minutes; strain clear of grease, and finish as directed under sauce Bigarrade claire (No. 31).
Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately. “Aiguillettes” (or thin slices of breast cut lengthwise) à l’orange are prepared in the same way, except that they are surrounded with sections of orange, skinned raw.
1756—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX CERISES
Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to the braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with arrowroot; strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of stoned morello cherries, at the last moment. Set the cherries round the aiguillettes; coat the latter thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the latter, separately.
1757—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX TRUFFES
Poële the duckling, and only just cook it.
Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the poëling-liquor, and cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done, reduce the liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a somewhat light Rouennaise sauce.
Raise the duckling’s aiguillettes, slice the truffles, and set on a lukewarm dish, alternating the aiguillettes with the slices of truffle.
Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter separately.
1758—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU CHAMPAGNE
Poële the duckling as above.
Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the poëling-liquor; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of thickened, veal stock.
[559]
Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and
send it in a sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.
1759—CANETON ROUENNAIS EN CHEMISE
Stuff the duckling with the preparation given under No. 1754; truss it as for an entrée; insert it into a well-soaked bladder, and string the end of the latter close to the bird’s tail. Wrap the bladder in a napkin, also strung, and poach gently for about forty-five minutes in a very strong brown stock. When about to serve, remove the napkin, and leave the duckling in the bladder.
Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.
1760—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU PORTO
Roast the duckling “en casserole,” keeping it only just done.
Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and add this reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling gravy, thickened with arrowroot.
1761—CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA PRESSE
Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly to the table, where it should be treated as follows:—Remove the legs, which are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid one against the other on a lukewarm dish.
Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add thereto a few drops of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle the slices of breast, which should have been well seasoned.
Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allowing to boil.
Serve instantly.
1762—CANETON FARCI A LA ROUENNAISE
Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754, and roast it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty minutes, according to its size.
Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.
If it be served carved, remove the legs, cisel them inside, season them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.
Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a long dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn from the inside.
Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.
Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it [560] the while with a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of lemon juice. Add the collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce: coat the slices of breast thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.