A guide to modern cookery

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CHAPTER XIX
SAVOURIES

2298—REMARKS UPON SAVOURIES

I have already expressed my opinion in regard to Savouries. I consider their use opposed to gastronomical principles, and that they have no raison d’être on a good menu. But, not wishing to seem didactic, I shall give, hereafter, a few savoury recipes, selected from among those which are gastronomically the best, and which custom has sanctified.

I resolved to make these recipes appear after the Vegetables and before the Ices, because I deem that Dessert alone is admissible after the Entremets and Ices.

There is much in common between Hors-d’œuvres and Savouries. Many of the former, the recipes for which I have given, may appear as Savouries, once their seasoning has been intensified. Among the latter class may be quoted the various Tartlets (No. 387, &c.); the Barquettes (No. 314); Frivolities (No. 350); Éclairs à la Karoly (No. 344); Allumettes aux Anchois (No. 300); City Toasts (No. 320), &c.

2299—ALLUMETTES

Prepare a ribbon of puff-paste three inches wide by one-fifth inch thick, leaving the length to come as it will. Spread on it some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with two tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese per one-half pint, and season with cayenne. Sprinkle the surface with grated Parmesan; press the latter into the sauce by means of the flat of a knife; cut into rectangles one inch wide; set these on a slightly-moistened tray, and bake them in a moderate oven for twelve minutes.

2300—BEIGNETS SOUFFLÉS WITH CHEESE

Prepare some ordinary “pâte à choux” without sugar (No. 2375), and combine it, per lb., with five oz. of a Brunoise of Gruyère.

Divide up this paste into portions the size of hazel-nut, and fry them in fat like other Beignets soufflés.

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2301—BEURRECKS A LA TURQUE

Reduce the required amount of Béchamel sauce to a thick consistence; mix it with an equal quantity of Gruyère dice; season with cayenne, and spread the preparation on a dish to cool.

Then divide it up into portions the size of fine walnuts; shape these like cigars, wrap each portion in a very thin layer of noodle paste; treat them à l’anglaise, and fry them at the last moment in very hot fat.

2302—CHOUX AU FROMAGE

By means of a piping-bag, form some “choux,” a little larger than the Saint-Honoré ones, from ordinary paste (see No. 2375). Gild them with beaten eggs; bake them in a moderate oven, and keep them dry. When cold, cut them at the top; garnish them with “Fondue au fromage” seasoned with cayenne, and complete with some Chantilly cream, combined with grated Parmesan; this should be laid on by means of a piping-bag, as in the case of “choux à la crème.”

2303—CAMEMBERT FRIT

Clear the cheese of its crust, and cut it into elongated lozenges. Sprinkle the latter with cayenne, treat them twice à l’anglaise, and fry them at the last moment in hot fat.

2304—CANAPES OR TOAST

These are nothing more than pieces of toast, i.e., slices of bread, trimmed according to fancy, grilled, buttered, and garnished in some way.

As the garnishes for toast are innumerable, I shall quote only a few typical examples.

Canapés Garnished with Scrambled Eggs.—Set the scrambled eggs in domes upon the Canapés; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.

Or arrange the scrambled eggs as above, and cover them with a lattice of anchovy fillets.

Canapés de Haddock.—Cook the haddock; rub it through a sieve; add a little butter and Béchamel sauce to the resulting purée, and set the latter in domes on the toast.

For Variety.—Sprinkle the purée with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze.

Or garnish the purée with oysters poached in a little Worcestershire sauce.

Or again: cover the purée with a lattice of anchovy fillets.

Canapés with Kippers or Bloaters.—Grill them and make a purée from them like the haddock.

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Canapés with Halved or Filleted Anchovies.—In the case of fillets, set them to form a grill upon the toast; if the anchovies be halved, lay them lengthwise on the toast.

Canapés with Sardines in Oil.—Clear the fish of their skins and bones, and set the fillets on the canapés.

Canapés with Grilled Sprats.—Proceed as for sardines.

Canapés of Salmon.—Toast may be garnished with thin slices of smoked or fresh salmon, or with the latter prepared in a purée like the haddock.

Various Canapés.—Once the pieces of toast or canapés are grilled and buttered, they may be garnished with chopped smoked tongue or ham, cohered with a little butter and mustard, with grilled slices of mushrooms or tomatoes, &c.

A few of the preparations have names, while others are only distinguished by the nature of their garnish.

2305—CANAPES A LA CADOGAN

Take oval and slightly hollowed pieces of toast, fried in butter and garnished with spinach prepared with butter. Lay two oysters on the spinach of each piece of toast; cover with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.

2306—CANAPES DES GOURMETS

Prepare some very thin pieces of toast; fry them in butter, and garnish them with a cheese fondue. Pair them off, and sandwich a piece of grilled bacon between each pair.

2307—CANAPES IVANHOE

Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with haddock purée, and set a very small, grilled mushroom on the purée of each piece of toast.

2308—CANAPES A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with haddock purée, and glazed.

N.B.—I see no use in extending this list any further; the above directions should suffice to show the variety to which these preparations lend themselves.

2309—CARCASSE DE VOLAILLE (Chicken Carcasses)

Take in preference the carcasses of fowls cooked without colouration.

After having trimmed them, coat them with mustard and cayenne, and grill them.

2310—CHAMPIGNONS SOUS CLOCHE

Trim the mushrooms; season them with salt and pepper, and garnish the hollow of each with a piece of Maître-d’hôtel [681] butter, the size of a hazel-nut, and one-half coffeespoonful of cream.

Set a mushroom on each piece of toast, which should be two inches in diameter and fried in butter. Dish them on an egg-tray, and cover them with a special, small, glass bell, four inches in diameter and two inches high, the rim of which must rest on the bottom of a dish, the diameter of which should be such as to fit the bell.

Put the dishes on the side of the stove, and cook in moderate heat for about twenty-five minutes.

2311—CONDÉS AU FROMAGE

Prepare a ribbon from puff-paste trimmings, as in the case of No. 2299.

Spread thereon a thick layer of very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured with cayenne, and combined, when cold, with very small dice of Gruyère and Parmesan. Cut up and cook as for No. 2299.

2312—CRÈME FRITE AU FROMAGE

Mix together four oz. of flour, two and one-half oz. of rice cream, three eggs, and two egg-yolks. Dilute with one pint of milk; season with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg; boil, and cook for five minutes over an open fire, stirring incessantly the while.

Add four oz. of grated Gruyère; spread this preparation on a buttered tray; leave it to cool, and then cut it into elongated lozenges. Roll the latter in beaten egg and bread-crumbs mixed with grated cheese, and fry them at the last moment. Dish them on a napkin.

2313—CROQUETTES DE CAMEMBERT

Dilute two oz. of flour and two oz. of rice cream with one-third pint of milk.

Add one lb. of cleaned camembert, cut into dice, five oz. of butter, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg.

Cook the preparation, stirring it the while; cool it; spread it on a tray; mould it to the shape of small quoits; treat these twice à l’anglaise, and fry them.

2314—DELICES DE FOIE GRAS

Take some fresh, well-seasoned foie gras, studded with truffles, and covered with slices of bacon, and poach it in a basin with good aspic jelly flavoured with dry champagne or Rhine wine. Leave to cool for twenty-four hours; clear the jelly of grease, first by means of a spoon, and then with boiling water.

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Serve the preparation as it stands, very cold, and accompany it with grilled, crisp, and very hot slices of bread-crumb.

2315—DIABLOTINS

These are very small, poached Gnochi, sprinkled with grated cheese, flavoured with a very little cayenne, and set for their gratin to form at the last moment.

2316—FONDANTS AU CHESTER

Moisten one-half lb. of flour, an equal quantity of butter and grated cheese, a pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne, with a few tablespoonfuls of water.

Cut the paste into small galettes, two inches in diameter; gild them with beaten eggs; streak them with a fork, and bake them in a moderate oven.

When cold, pair the galettes off, and stick them together with a tablespoonful of fondant cream, prepared thus:—

Mix six egg-yolks with two-thirds pint of cream; season with salt and cayenne; leave to set on moderate fire, like an English custard, and, when the preparation is almost cold, finish it with five oz. of best butter and as much grated cheese.

2317—ANGES A CHEVAL

Wrap some fine oysters, each in a thin slice of bacon. Impale them on a skewer; season and grill them, and dish them on small pieces of toast.

Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and cayenne when about to serve.

2318—BROCHETTES D’HUÎTRES LUCIFER

Poach some fine native oysters in their own liquor; clear them of their beards; dry them, and dip them in thin mustard. Impale them, six at a time, on skewers, and treat them à l’anglaise.

Fry them at the last moment, and dish them on a napkin.

2319—OMELETTE A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Take some fresh herring milts; salt them; sprinkle them with cayenne and chopped chives, parsley, and chervil; wrap each in a thin slice of smoked salmon, and poach them gently in butter.

Set them aslant in the centre of an “omelette aux fines herbes”; cover them well with the latter, and roll it up.

2320—OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES

See No. 502.

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2321—GRILLED BONES

Take the trimmed bones of a roast sirloin, and let there be still some meat upon them. Sprinkle them with cayenne; coat them with mustard, and grill them.

2322—PAILLETTES AU PARMESAN

Prepare some puff-paste with two-thirds lb. of butter; roll it out ten times, dusting it and the table well the while with grated Parmesan and a little cayenne, that the paste may absorb as much as possible of these. Then roll it into square layers of four-inch sides and one-eighth inch thick; cut these up into ribbons one-eighth inch wide; set them on buttered trays; bake them in a very hot oven, and serve them on a napkin.

2323—PANNEQUETS A LA MOSCOVITE

Take some ordinary, unsugared Pannequets; cut them into rectangles three inches long by one and one-half inches wide. Coat them with caviare, flavoured with cayenne; roll them into cigarettes, and serve them on crystal hors-d’œuvre dishes.

2324—PUDDING DE FROMAGE AU PAIN

Set some thin slices of stale, buttered and cheese-sprinkled bread in a pie-dish. Having three-parts filled the dish with it, cover the slices with a preparation consisting of the yolks of four eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of broth—which quantities are suited to a pint dish.

Sprinkle copiously with grated cheese; bake in the oven, and glaze at the last moment.

2325—SARDINES A LA DIABLE

Take fresh sardines, if possible. Skin and bone them; coat them with mustard and cayenne; treat them à l’anglaise; fry them at the last moment, and dish them on small fried croûtons, the shape of sardines.

N.B.—Fresh anchovies and smelts may be prepared in the same way.

2326—SCOTCH WOODCOCK

Toast some large slices of bread, one-third inch thick, and cover them with a very thick English butter sauce, combined with plenty of capers and anchovy purée.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; glaze quickly at the salamander; speedily cut up into small rectangles, and serve very hot.

2327—TARTELETTES AGNÈS

Line some grooved tartlet moulds with good paste, and garnish them with a preparation of Quiche with cheese, [684] flavoured with cayenne. Cook them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the oven, set a roundel of poached marrow rolled in pale melted meat glaze and chopped parsley on each tartlet.

2328—TARTELETTES A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Take some tartlet crusts, baked without colouration, and garnish them at the last moment with a haddock purée, cohered with Béchamel sauce.

2329—TARTELETTES DE HADDOCK

Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with a salpicon of poached haddock, mixed with curry sauce. Sprinkle the surface of each with fine raspings, and dish them on a napkin.

2330—TARTELETTES A LA FLORENTINE

Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with Soufflé with Parmesan, combined with grated truffles and crayfishes’ tails cut into dice, and strongly seasoned with mignonette.

Bake in the oven for about three minutes.

2331—TARTELETTES MARQUISE

Line some tartlets with good paste; garnish their bottom and sides with a thread of gnochis preparation, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, the orifice of which should be equal in diameter to macaroni.

Fill up the tartlets with Mornay sauce flavoured with cayenne; sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake in a fierce oven.

2332—TARTELETTES A LA RAGLAN

Garnish the bottom of some colourlessly-baked tartlets with a smoked herring-milt purée. Cover the latter with haddock soufflé, shaped like a hive by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small, grooved pipe. Place in the oven for six minutes, and serve instantly.

2333—TARTELETTES A LA TOSCA

Garnish some tartlet crusts with crayfishes’ tails, prepared “à l’Américaine.” Cover with Soufflé with Parmesan, and place in the oven for three minutes.

2334—TARTELETTES A LA VENDOME

Line some tartlet moulds with good paste; prick the bottom of each, and garnish them with the following preparation.

For twelve tartlets:—One and one-half oz. of chopped shallots, heated in butter; three oz. of sautéd and finely chopped [685] cèpes; one and one-half oz. of raw marrow in dice; one small hard-boiled and chopped egg; one oz. of bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne, a few drops of lemon juice, and three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze. Set a large slice of marrow on each tartlet, and cook at the last moment.

2335—WELSH RABBIT

This may be prepared in two ways, but always on square or rectangular pieces of buttered toast, one-third inch thick.

1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer of grated Gloucester or Chester cheese, to sprinkle them with cayenne, and then to place them in the oven for the cheese to melt and thereby glaze their surfaces.

2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese in a few tablespoonfuls of pale ale and a little English mustard.

As soon as the cheese has melted, it is poured over the pieces of buttered toast, quickly smoothed with the flat of a knife, and sprinkled with cayenne. The pieces may be cut up if required.

2336—SANDWICHES

Sandwiches are prepared in two ways, according to their purposes.

They generally consist of two slices of buttered bread, with mustard spread upon them, covering a slice of ham or tongue, &c. Sandwiches are usually rectangular, and they should measure about three inches by one and one-half inches. The kind served at ball buffets are much smaller, and therefore it is best to cut the sandwiched product (whatever this be) into dice, and to mix it with an equal weight of butter containing mustard.

When sandwiches have to be kept, they should be placed under a slight weight to prevent the bread from drying. Sandwiches may also be made from thick, toasted slices of bread, cut laterally into two, and then garnished according to fancy.

Names of common Sandwiches.

2337—BOOKMAKER SANDWICHES

In his book, “La Cuisine Anglaise,” Mr. Suzanne gives the following kind of sandwich, which deserves attention:—

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This kind of sandwich, which is liked by racing people, is a most substantial affair, and it will be seen from the following recipe that a sandwich of the nature prescribed might, in an emergency, answer the purpose of a meal.

Take an English tin-loaf, and cut off its two end crusts, leaving on them about one-third inch of crumb. Butter these crusts. Meanwhile grill a thick steak, well seasoned with salt and pepper. When it is cooked, cool it; sprinkle it with grated horse-radish and mustard, and lay it between the two crusts. String the whole together as for a galantine, and wrap it in several sheets of blotting-paper. Then place the parcel under a letter-press, the screw of which should be gradually tightened, and leave the sandwich thus for one-half hour.

At the end of this time the insides of the slices of bread have, owing to the pressure, become saturated with meat juice, which is prevented from escaping by the covering of crust.

Remove the blotting-paper, and pack the sandwich in a box or in several sheets of white paper.