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A guide to modern cookery

Chapter 2790: Apples (Pommes)
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About This Book

A comprehensive culinary manual that presents principles and practical methods of contemporary professional and domestic cookery, explaining stocks, sauces, joints, fish, poultry, desserts, menu construction, service, and kitchen organization. It reviews how traditional haute cuisine has been adapted for modern restaurant and hotel service, offers step-by-step recipes and timings, recommends techniques for efficient mise en place and rapid service, and includes a glossary of terms. Recipes range from simple household preparations to elaborate haute cuisine, with introductions on menu planning, food economy, and evolving social dining habits. Emphasis is on clarity, reproducible technique, and adapting classical foundations to changing tastes and service requirements.

 

2542—TIMBALE A LA D’AREMBERG

Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.

Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty minutes.

On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.

2543—BOURDALOUE TIMBALE

Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.

With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.

When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2544—MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE

Take a stale Génoise cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.

Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distribute a salpicon of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.

Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.

Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.

2545—MONTMORENCY TIMBALE

Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the small-thread [743] stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.

2546—TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE

Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.

2547—TIMBALE A LA FAVART

Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of chestnut remains.

Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.

Hot Fruit Entremets.

 

2548—APRICOTS (Abricots)

Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.

2549—APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE

Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.

Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze quickly.

N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should be covered with gratin; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of gratin upon the [744] cream; (3) set the fruit in a border of Génoise, combined with apricots.

2550—APRICOTS A LA COLBERT

Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.

Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for entremets” (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat them à l’anglaise, with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2551—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ

On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered, border-mould.

Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2552—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ (2nd Method)

Set a crown of small Génoise roundels on a dish; on each roundel set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape of apricots.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2553—APRICOTS A LA CUSSY

Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth fruit salpicon, cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue; dish in the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2554—ABRICOTS GRATINÉS

Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the pralin.

[745]
2555—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS

Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary meringue; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the meringue.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.

2556—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS (Another Method)

Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover with meringue, smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with meringue by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.

2557—APRICOTS A LA SULTANE

Prepare a Génoise, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the small-thread stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary meringue; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.

Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.

As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

 

2558—PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE

See No. 2429.

2559—PINE-APPLE A LA CONDÉ

Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. 2551; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2560—PINE-APPLE A LA CRÉOLE

Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.

[746]
Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.

Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.

Bananas (Bananes).

 

2561—BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE

Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. 2549.

2562—BANANAS A LA CONDÉ

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under No. 2551.

2563—BANANAS MERINGUÉES

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2555 and 2556); leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.

2564—BANANAS A LA NORVEGIENNE

Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured with rum.

Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.

2565—SOUFFLÉD BANANAS

Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve; add it to a cream soufflé-preparation; finish the latter with the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.

Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for six minutes.

[747]
Cherries (Cerises).

 

2566—JUBILEE CHERRIES

Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and set a light to each when serving.

2567—CHERRIES A LA VALERIA

Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.

Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.

2568—MERINGUED CHERRY FLAWN

Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up with custard (No. 2397). Cook in the usual way.

On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.

N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.

2569—NECTARINES

Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See peaches.

Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).

 

2570—ORANGES A LA NORVEGIENNE

Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit [748] under treatment, and cover the ice with Italian meringue, by means of a piping-bag.

Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.

2571—TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE

Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.

Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened side undermost.

2572—ORANGE OR TANGERINE SOUFFLÉ RIGHI

Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.

Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured soufflé-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the soufflé may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes for oranges.

Peaches (Pêches).

 

2573—PÊCHES A LA BOURDALOUE

Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.

2574—PÊCHES A LA CONDÉ

Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.

2575—PÊCHES A LA CUSSY

Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.

2576—PÊCHES FLAMBÉES

These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—

(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight when serving.

(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the last moment.

[749]
2577—PÊCHES GRATINÉES

Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.

2578—PÊCHES MERINGUÉES

Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it with frangipan cream prepared with pralin, and upon this cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue and finish as explained under No. 2555.

2579—PÊCHES MAINTENON

Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan cream, combined with a salpicon of candied fruit and chopped, grilled almonds.

Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.

Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

2580—PÊCHES A LA VANILLE

Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.

Pears (Poires).

 

2581—POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE

If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large, quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow No. 2549.

The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.

2582—POIRES A LA CONDÉ

Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed under No. 2551.

2583—POIRES A L’IMPÉRATRICE

Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan cream.

Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

[750]
2584—POIRES A LA PARISIENNE

Bake a Génoise base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold, saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and bake this meringue in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of half-sugared cherries.

2585—POIRES A LA SULTANE

Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.

2586—POIRES A LA RÉGENCE

Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan cream and a fine salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them à l’anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs.

Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2587—TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES

Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.

Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate with alternate bands of sugar grains and chopped, very green pistachios.

Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way. Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre,” “Doyenne” or other creamy pears; peel them; cut them into somewhat thick slices, and cook them in butter after the manner of Pommes à Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked, mix with them a quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour with vanilla liqueur.

[751]
Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it on a warm dish.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples (Pommes).

 

2588—APPLE FRITTERS

Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.

A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.

2589—APPLES WITH BUTTER

Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche croûtons, glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.

Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot purée.

2590—POMMES A LA BONNE-FEMME

Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all round.

Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in the oven.

Serve these apples as they stand.

2591—POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE

Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the operation as directed under No. 2549.

2592—POMMES EN CHARLOTTE

See No. 2436.

[752]
2593—POMMES A LA CHÂTELAINE

Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. 2590. Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a salpicon of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin, frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

2594—POMMES A LA CHEVREUSE

On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a salpicon of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover with a thin coat of semolina.

Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome; sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.

2595—POMMES A LA CONDÉ

Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as explained under No. 2551.

2596—POMMES GRATINÉES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the pralin may dry and colour slightly.

2597—POMMES MERINGUÉES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.

2598—POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE

Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within [753] two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.

Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm; drain them well, and set them on a dish.

Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-soufflé preparation.

Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.

2599—POMMES A LA PARISIENNE

Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.

2600—POMMES A LA PORTUGAISE

Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.

Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured, lukewarm syrup).

Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly, combined with a fine julienne of well-parboiled orange-zest.

2601—RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN

Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel of the same paste; gild; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

2602—POMMES IRÈNE

Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.

Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the former.

Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue; set the latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.

2603—FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON

Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush [754] delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.

2604—FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE

Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.

Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb. of cooked rice.

Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.

Various Hot Entremets.