669—COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE
Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stewpan with water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel them quickly while they are still very hot. Then cook them gently in one-half pint of white consommé with one-third of a stick of celery, minced, and one piece of loaf-sugar.
Poële a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of garnish, bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the carcass and the poëling liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the whole, and add some consommé to the resulting purée with the object of facilitating the rubbing through tammy. This done, add to the preparation about one-quarter pint of very clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil, pass it through a strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up, with a very little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small julienne.
670—COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE
Poach in one quart of white consommé a cleaned fowl weighing about three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously blanched. Having cooked the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put them aside. Bone the remainder and finely pound the meat. When the latter is a smooth paste mix therewith the rice, which should be very well cooked, add the necessary amount of white consommé to the purée, and rub through tammy. Bring the cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer.
Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
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671—VELOUTÉ AGNÈS SOREL
(1) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, keeping it somewhat thin.
(2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very fresh mushrooms, newly gathered if possible.
Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée of raw mushrooms to the velouté. Bring the whole to the boil once or twice, and this done rub through tammy immediately. Finish with the leason and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a julienne of raw mushrooms tossed in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and as much salted tongue, both of which should also be cut in julienne-fashion.
N.B.—With regard to veloutés I remind the reader that the velouté of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup, the purée typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the consommé required to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence should be in the proportion of the remaining quarter.
The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks of three eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average quantity of butter should measure about two and one-half oz. (see No. 242).
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
672—VELOUTÉ DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE
Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served within the space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for however short a time, it will most probably turn, in spite of every possible precaution.
Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without colouration, besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry, moisten with one and one-half pints of boiling water, add a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few sprigs of saffron (or a little of it powdered), and two oz. of Viennese bread.
Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb. of very fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire.
Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason consisting of the yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream, and pour the whole into the soup-tureen over some dried slices of bread (buttered), over rice, or over some previously poached vermicelli. Serve at once.
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673—VELOUTÉ CARMÉLITE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velouté, stew four oz. of fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in one and one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish, add it to the velouté, and rub through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of consommé, heat the velouté, and finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a julienne of poached fillets of sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
674—VELOUTÉ AUX CAROTTES, otherwise NIVERNAISE
Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots, season with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of castor-sugar, and stew in one oz. of butter.
Add one pint of ordinary thin velouté and let the cooking of the carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish with one-half pint of white consommé, set to boil, and complete the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine brunoise of the red part of carrots.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
675—VELOUTÉ COMTESSE
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, parboil one and one-half lbs. of white asparagus, and put them into the velouté. Complete the cooking gently. Rub through tammy, add one-half pint of white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce chiffonade and twelve small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have been removed.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
676—VELOUTÉ AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise DANOISE
Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one lb. of parboil cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary velouté, which should have been prepared at the same time, and complete the cooking quickly. Rub through tammy, add the necessary quantity of white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and butter in the usual quantities.
[239]
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
677—VELOUTÉ CRESSONIÈRE
After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb. of very fresh watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add them to one pint of ordinary velouté. Set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, rub through tammy, add one and one-half pints of ordinary white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three minutes.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
678—VELOUTÉ DAME-BLANCHE
Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velouté. Also finely pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds, moisten them, little by little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water, and rub through a strong towel, twisting the latter to assist the process.
Add this almond milk to the velouté, and finish the latter, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken cut into small dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat (in the shape of pearls) poached just before dishing up.
679—VELOUTÉ D’ARTOIS
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, and mix therewith one-half pint of a purée of haricot beans. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé; heat, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary julienne and a pinch of chervil pluches.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
680—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS
Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two and one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of salt and a very small quantity of mignonette. Also stew gently, in one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of smelt, one-half lb. of fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the juice of the quarter of a lemon.
[240]
Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada,
together with one-half pint of ordinary thin velouté.
Rub through tammy; heat; season with a very little cayenne, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of butter.
N.B.—1. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and the really disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which contains overmuch of it, its flesh should never exceed the proportion of one-third of the required quantity of fish. The remaining two-thirds should be supplied by a fish of neutral flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which are admirably suited to this purpose.
2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be prepared as quickly as possible, and at the last moment. The process should not last longer than thirty minutes, for, if there be any delay, the preparation will turn and lose its flavour.
3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, instead of a fish velouté, the reason being that, were the latter used, the taste of fish would in the end be too pronounced.
681—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS JOINVILLE
Proceed in the matter of the base of the soup as in No. 680.
Finish the velouté with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of shrimp butter.
Garnish with six crayfish tails, cut into four pieces, and one tablespoonful of a short julienne of truffles and mushrooms.
682—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS PRINCESSE
The same as above, with twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat with crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of very green asparagus-heads per quart of velouté.
683—VELOUTÉ AUX GRENOUILLES, otherwise SICILIENNE
Prepare one and one-half pints of delicate and rather thin fish velouté.
Trim fifteen or twenty frogs’ legs; toss them in butter without letting them acquire any colour, and set them to poach for ten minutes in two tablespoonfuls of white wine and the juice of a lemon. Pound them in a mortar; add the resulting purée to the velouté; set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, and rub through tammy.
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Heat the velouté, and finish it, when dishing up, with the
ordinary leason and three and one-half oz. of best butter.
Do not garnish this velouté.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
684—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD, otherwise CARDINAL
Prepare one and three-quarter pints of bisque de homard (No. 663), but substitute velouté for the thickening with rice. Rub through tammy; heat, and complete, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of lobster butter and three-quarters oz. of red butter.
Garnish with two baba-moulds of a royale of lobster, cut by means of a fancy-cutter in the shape of a cross.
Shell-fish veloutés do not admit of an egg-yolk leason.
685—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A CLEVELAND
Break up two small live lobsters or one medium-sized one, and prepare it à l’Américaine (see “Lobster à l’Américaine”). Reserve a few slices of the meat for garnishing purposes. Finely pound the rest with the shell; combine the purée with one quart of ordinary velouté prepared beforehand, and add the lobster sauce. Rub through a sieve, first, then through tammy; heat without allowing to boil; add the required quantity of consommé, and once more pass the whole through a strainer.
Complete, when dishing up, with three oz. of best butter.
Garnish with one-half tablespoonful of peeled tomato pulp, cut into dice and half-melted in butter, and the reserved slices of lobster cut into dice.
686—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’INDIENNE
Prepare the lobster à l’Américaine as above, and flavour it with curry. Preserve a sufficient quantity of meat from the tail to afford an abundant garnish.
For the rest of the process proceed exactly as the preceding recipe directs.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and four tablespoonfuls of rice à l’Indienne; send the latter to the table separately.
687—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A L’ORIENTALE
Prepare a medium-sized lobster after the manner directed in “Homard à la Newburg with raw lobster” (see No. 948), and season with curry.
Reserve a few slices of the meat of the tail for the garnish; [242] finely pound the remaining portions and the shell; add the lobster sauce, and combine the whole with one quart of ordinary velouté, kept somewhat light.
Rub through a sieve, first, then through tammy; heat the velouté without letting it boil; add the necessary quantity of consommé, and finish the preparation, when about to serve, with three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and two tablespoonfuls of rice à l’Indienne, each grain of which should be kept distinct and separate.
688—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD AU PAPRIKA
Prepare a medium-sized lobster à l’Américaine, and, in addition to the usual ingredients of the preparation, include two concassed tomatoes and two roughly chopped onions. Season with paprika.
For the rest of the operation, proceed exactly as directed under “Velouté à la Cleveland.”
Garnish with lobster meat cut into dice, two tablespoonfuls of rice, and one tablespoonful of pimentos cut into dice.
689—VELOUTÉ DE HOMARD A LA PERSANE
Proceed exactly as for “Velouté de Homard à l’Orientale.”
Garnish with lobster meat in dice, one tablespoonful of pimentos in dice, and two tablespoonfuls of pilaff rice, to which add a very little saffron.
Remarks relating to the Variation of these Veloutés.—By merely substituting an equivalent quantity of crayfish, shrimps, or crabs, for the lobster, the recipes dealing with veloutés of lobster, given above, may be applied to Veloutés of Crayfish, Shrimps, or Crabs.
It would therefore be pointless to repeat them, since all that is needed is to read crayfish, shrimps, or crabs wherever the word lobster appears.
Thus I shall only point out that the number of these veloutés may be increased at will, the only requisites being the change of the basic ingredient and the modification of the garnish.
690—VELOUTÉ AUX HUÎTRES
Prepare one quart of very delicate fish velouté, and bear in mind that the preparation must be made as speedily as possible. (See the remarks dealing with this question which follow upon the model recipe of the velouté d’éperlans.)
[243]
Add to the velouté the carefully collected liquor of the
twenty-four oysters constituting the garnish, and complete,
when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with four poached oysters (cleared of their beards) per each person.
691—VELOUTÉ ISOLINE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Complete it, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and three oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in white consommé.
692—VELOUTÉ MARIE LOUISE
Prepare one pint of poultry velouté; mix therewith one-half pint of barley cream (No. 712), and rub through tammy. Add one-half pint of white consommé, and heat the velouté without letting it boil.
Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter. Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of best macaroni, poached and cut into dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
693—VELOUTÉ MARIE STUART
Prepare a poultry velouté with barley cream, as above. Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a brunoise, and the same quantity of fine pearl barley cooked in white consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
694—VELOUTÉ AU POURPIER
Proceed exactly as directed under “Velouté Cressonière” (No. 677), but substitute purslain for the watercress.
695—VELOUTÉ A LA SULTANE
Prepare one quart of poultry velouté. Finish it, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs diluted with one-fifth pint of sweet-almond milk (made by pounding eighteen sweet almonds, mixing therewith one-fifth pint of water, and straining the whole through a twisted towel), and three oz. of pistachio butter. The velouté should be of a pale green shade.
Garnish with small crescents of chicken forcemeat prepared with crayfish butter, kept of a pink shade. These crescents [244] should be laid, by means of a piping-bag, upon thin roundels of truffle, and poached in consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
695a—COLD CHICKEN VELOUTÉ FOR SUPPERS
The preparation of these veloutés requires the utmost care, but, as a rule, they are very much liked.
Prepare a white roux from one oz. of butter and one and one-sixth oz. of flour per quart of the moistening. Dilute with some very strong clear consommé, thoroughly cleared of grease; boil, and despumate for one and one-half hours, adding meanwhile half as much consommé as served in the moistening of the velouté.
When the velouté is thoroughly despumated and entirely cleared of grease, strain it through a silk sieve, and add, per quart, one-quarter pint of very fresh thin cream. Cool, stirring incessantly the while; once more strain the velouté through the sieve when it is cold, and, if necessary, add some of the consommé already used, in order to give the velouté the consistence of a thickened consommé. Serve it in cups, and see that it be sufficiently thin to not impaste the mouth of the consumer.
This velouté is usually served as it stands, but it allows of various condimentary adjuncts. Such are:—Tomato and capsicum essences; crayfish, shrimp, or game creams. These creams or essences should be of consummate delicacy, and ought to lend only a very delicate flavour to the velouté.
696—CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS AU BEURRE DE NOISETTE
Have ready one and one-half pints of Béchamel. Parboil, finely mince, and stew in butter four large artichoke-bottoms. Pound the latter; put them in the Béchamel, and rub the whole through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of white consommé or milk, and set to heat without allowing to boil. Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with one-quarter pint of cream and one oz. of hazel-nut butter (No. 155).
Remarks relative to Creams.—I remind the reader here that (1) the thickening element of creams is a Béchamel prepared in the usual way (see No. 28); (2) in the preparation of a cream, of what kind soever, the Béchamel should constitute half of the whole, the basic ingredient a quarter, and the white consommé or milk the remaining quarter.
[245]
As a rule, they comprise no butter, but are finished by means
of one-third pint of very fresh cream per quart. Be this as it
may, if it be desirable to butter them, one may do so, but in
very small quantities, and taking care to use the very best
butter.
This class of soups is more particularly suited to Lenten menus.
697—CRÈME D’ASPERGES, otherwise ARGENTEUIL
Parboil for five or six minutes one and one-half lbs. of Argenteuil asparagus, broken off at the spot where the hard part of the stalk begins. Drain them, and set them to complete their cooking gently in one and one-quarter pints of previously prepared Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of white consommé, and heat without allowing to boil.
Finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of white asparagus-heads and a pinch of chervil pluches.
698—CRÈME D’ASPERGES VERTES
Proceed exactly as for “Crème Argenteuil,” but substitute green asparagus for Argenteuil asparagus.
699—CRÈME AU BLÉ VERT, otherwise CÉRÈS
Put one lb. of dry, green wheat to soak in cold water for four hours. Then cook it slowly in one-half pint of water and as much white consommé. Mix therewith one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel and rub through tammy.
Add the necessary amount of white consommé to the purée; heat the whole without boiling, and finish it with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with a pinch of chervil pluches.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
700—CRÈME DE CÉLERI
Mince one lb. of the white of celery; parboil for seven or eight minutes; drain, and stew in one oz. of butter. Mix one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel with it; complete the cooking slowly, and rub through tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé; heat without allowing to boil, and finish the preparation with cream when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a brunoise of celery.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
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701—CRÈME DE CERFEUIL BULBEUX, otherwise CHEVREUSE
Mince and stew in butter one lb. of bulbous chervil, and mix therewith one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete the cooking slowly; rub through tammy; add sufficient white consommé; heat, and finish with cream when dishing up. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a fine julienne of chicken fillets and the same quantity of a julienne of truffles.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
702—CRÈME DE CHICORÉE DE BRUXELLES, otherwise BRUXELLOISE
Take one lb. of very fresh chicory, and stew it for a good half-hour in one and one-half oz. of butter and the juice of one lemon.
Now mix one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel with it, and finish the cooking very slowly. Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of white consommé; heat, and complete with cream when serving.
Garnish with a julienne of Belgian chicory, stewed and well drained.
703—CRÈME D’ÉPINARDS, otherwise FLORENTINE
Quickly parboil one lb. of shredded and well-washed spinach to which a little sorrel may be added; drain, press, and add thereto one and one-half pints of somewhat thin Béchamel. Complete the cooking; rub the whole through tammy, and finish it with the necessary amount of fresh cream.
Garnish with a julienne of spinach, quickly parboiled and stewed in butter.
704—CRÈME DE FÈVES NOUVELLES
Skin two-thirds lb. of new broad beans, freshly gathered, if possible. Cook them for ten minutes in boiling salted water containing a sprig of savory, and then add one and one-quarter pints of Béchamel. Complete the cooking of the broad beans in the Béchamel; rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé or milk; heat without allowing to boil, and finish the preparation with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with very small skinned broad beans, split in two and parboiled with a sprig of savory.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
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705—CRÈME D’IGNAMES, otherwise BRÉSILIENNE
Bake the yams in the oven, without peeling them. As soon as this is done, cut them in two, remove their pulp, and quickly rub the latter through a sieve while it is still hot. Dilute the purée with boiling milk or thin Béchamel in the proportion of one pint of the former and one-half pint of the latter per lb. of the purée. (This Béchamel should be made from one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour per quart of milk.)
Rub the whole through tammy, and finish the preparation in the usual way. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Brazilian pearls, poached in consommé.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
706—CRÈME DE LAITUES, otherwise JUDIC
Parboil and stew in butter two medium-sized ciseled lettuces, the greenest leaves of which should have been discarded. Add these to one and one-half pints of Béchamel.
Rub through tammy; add one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish as usual with cream.
Garnish with roundels of lettuce leaves, lightly coated with chicken forcemeat, a bit of truffle laid in their centre, and the whole poached at the last minute.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
707—CRÈME DE MAÏS, otherwise WASHINGTON
Cook some fresh maize in salted water (or use the preserved kind if the fresh is out of season), and combine therewith an equal quantity of thin Béchamel. Rub through tammy; heat, and finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with grains of maize cooked in salted water.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté by substituting for the Béchamel an excellent poultry velouté.
708—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’AVOINE
Pour one-quarter lb. of oatmeal diluted with one-half pint of cold milk into one quart of slightly salted boiling milk. Stir over the fire until the boil is reached; move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and simmer for two hours.
This done, add six tablespoonfuls of a fondue of sorrel and butter; set to simmer again for one-quarter hour, and rub the whole through tammy.
Complete the operation after the manner common to all creams.
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709—CRÈME D’OSEILLE A L’ORGE
Proceed exactly as for No. 708, using the same quantities, but substituting barley-meal for oatmeal.
Remarks upon the Two above Creams.—They may also be prepared as veloutés. Their garnish may be greatly varied, and may consist of chiffonade of lettuce and sorrel; pressed peeled tomatoes, cut into dice and cooked in butter; poached rice or pastes (i.e., vermicelli, &c.); fine well-cooked pearl barley; brunoise; small printaniers, &c.
They belong, in fact, to the same order of soups as the purées of sorrel with pastes, the recipes of which were given earlier in the chapter.
710—CRÈME D’OXALIS
Peel and slice the oxalis roots, and half-cook them in salted water. Drain, add it to one and one-half pints of Béchamel, and complete its cooking gently in the sauce.
Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé, and finish after the manner of other creams. Garnish with chervil pluches.
This soup may also be prepared as a purée or a velouté.
711—CRÈME DE RIZ
Wash one-half lb. of rice in cold water; blanch it; cool it, and cook it very gently in one quart of white consommé. Crush in the mortar; rub through tammy, and dilute the rice purée with one pint of white consommé. Heat and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the necessary quantity of cream.
Or pour four tablespoonfuls of rice cream, diluted with one-half pint of cold milk, into three pints of boiling milk; set to boil, stirring the while, and leave to cook very gently for twenty-five minutes. Rub through tammy, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the required quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
712—CRÈME D’ORGE
Wash three-quarters lb. of coarse pearl barley in lukewarm water, and cook it gently for about two and one-half hours in one pint of white consommé containing one piece of the white part of a stick of celery.
Crush in a mortar; rub through tammy; dilute the purée of barley with one pint of white consommé; heat, and finish the [249] preparation, when dishing up, with the necessary quantity of cream.
This soup may also be prepared with barley-meal, the procedure in that case being the same as that of the “Crème de Riz” above.
Garnish with very fine, well-cooked pearl barley.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
713—CRÈME DE VOLAILLE PRINCESSE
Mix one and one-half pints of thin Béchamel with one-half pint of chicken purée. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé to the preparation, or the same quantity of boiled milk; heat without allowing to boil, and finish with cream when dishing up.
Garnish with twenty very small slices of chicken fillets, white asparagus-heads, and chervil pluches.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
714—CRÈME REINE-MARGOT
Mix one-half pint of chicken purée with one pint of thin Béchamel. Rub through tammy; add one and one-half pints of white consommé and one-quarter pint of almond milk (No. 678). Heat without allowing to boil, and finish with cream.
Garnish with very small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with one oz. of pistachio purée per three oz. of forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté.
715—POTAGE A L’AURORE
Wash one-quarter lb. of fine pearl barley in plenty of water. Put it into a stewpan with one quart of consommé, as much water, a faggot comprising parsley, celery, and chervil, and set to cook very gently for five hours. While the cooking progresses, take care to remove all the skin which forms on the surface, in order that the cooking-liquor may remain very clear.
When the barley is well cooked, transfer it to another stewpan, and add to it four tablespoonfuls of a thick and very red tomato purée, strained through muslin, and two tablespoonfuls of celery, minced in paysanne-fashion, stewed in butter, and finally cooked in consommé.
This excellent soup should not be made too thick.
716—POTAGE BAGRATION GRAS
Cut two-thirds lb. of very white fillet of veal into large dice, and stiffen these in butter without letting them acquire any [250] colour. Add one and one-quarter pints of thin velouté with a veal base, and set to cook very gently.
Finely pound the veal; dilute the purée with velouté, and rub through tammy. Add one pint of white consommé; heat without boiling, and complete the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason of the yolks of three eggs diluted with four tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of butter.
Garnish with thin macaroni cut into short lengths, and send some grated cheese to the table separately.
717—POTAGE BAGRATION MAIGRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fresh velouté, and mix therewith one-quarter pint of mushroom velouté. (For making this, see “Velouté Agnès Sorel,” No. 671.)
Heat without boiling; pass through a strainer, and finish, when about to serve, with the same leason as for ordinary velouté, and two and one-half oz. of butter. Garnish with one fillet of sole, poached very white, and cut into a julienne; twelve small quenelles of sole or whiting forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and six crayfishes’ tails cut into small pieces.
718—POTAGE CHOISEUL
Prepare a “purée Conti” (No. 640) with an excellent fumet of game.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sorrel, ciseled and cooked in butter, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
719—POTAGE COMPIÈGNE
Prepare a light “Purée Soissonnaise”; butter it well, and add thereto as garnish three tablespoonfuls of ciseled sorrel cooked in butter, and chervil pluches.
720—POTAGE DERBY
Add one-half pint of Soubise purée (No. 104) to one pint of “Crème de Riz” (No. 711) flavoured with a very little curry. Rub the whole through tammy.
Add one-half pint of white consommé, and heat without boiling. Complete, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason and three oz. of butter.
Garnish with twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with one-third of its volume of foie-gras purée, one tablespoonful of little truffle pearls, and an equal quantity of poached rice, each grain of which must be kept distinct and separate.
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721—POTAGE A LA DIANE
Cook one-half lb. of lentils with the usual garnish. Roast two medium-sized partridges, keeping them slightly underdone, and remove their fillets. Complete the cooking of the partridges with the lentils, drained of their cooking-liquor, in one pint of game consommé.
Prepare a royale (No. 209) with the reserved fillets.
When the birds are cooked, bone them; pound their meat, and add thereto the lentils and the cooking-liquor; rub through tammy.
Finish the purée with one and one-half pints of excellent thin game stock, and complete the soup, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of reduced Madeira.
Garnish with the royale, cut into small regular crescents, and twelve small crescents of very black truffle.
722—POTAGE ELISA
Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, and rub it through tammy. Complete with one-half pint of white consommé; heat without boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason, two and one-half oz. of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of a fondue of sorrel.
723—POTAGE FAVORI
Prepare one pint of a velouté of green asparagus; one-half pint of a velouté of lettuce, and one-half pint of poultry velouté. Put all three into a stewpan; add thereto the necessary quantity of white consommé to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence; heat without boiling, and pass through a strainer.
Finish the soup, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and two oz. of butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a chiffonade of sorrel, and one tablespoonful of green asparagus-heads.
724—POTAGE GERMINY
Cisel and melt in butter three oz. of shredded sorrel, and add thereto one and one-half pints of white consommé. A few minutes before serving, pour into the consommé a leason composed of the yolks of six eggs diluted with one-quarter pint of cream; set on the fire and stir, after the manner of an English custard, i.e., until the preparation begins to show signs of boiling.
Finish, away from the fire, with two and one-half oz. of butter, and add a pinch of chervil pluches.
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Remarks concerning the Possible Variation of this Soup.—The
mode of procedure adopted in the case of the Germiny
could, if necessary, be applied to all thick soups, and it would
then constitute a class to which the term “Cream” would be
better suited than it is at present to the soups thus designated.
Instead of the ordinary white consommé, which is used in its preparation, a consommé may be used in which such vegetables as carrots, turnips, peas, &c., are cooked, the latter being reserved for the garnish, while the cooking-liquor is thickened with egg-yolks and cream in accordance with the quantities and directions given in the above recipe.
A carrot cream, a cream of fresh peas, or of asparagus-heads, prepared in this way, would be much more delicate than those prepared after the ordinary recipes.
The essential point in this series of soups is the leason; this should consist of enough egg-yolks to render the preparations sufficiently thick and creamy.
725—POTAGE AUX HERBES
Cut two oz. of sorrel leaves into a julienne, and stew them in butter with one oz. of watercress leaves, one oz. of chervil pluches, and young pimpernel. Add one and one-half pints of water, the necessary salt, three medium-sized, peeled, and quartered potatoes, and cook gently.
Drain and reserve the cooking-liquor; crush the potatoes; dilute the purée with the cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy. Set to boil, and finish, when dishing up, with three oz. of Printanier butter with herbs, combined with a few leaves of sweet basil.
Add a pinch of chervil pluches.
726—POTAGE JUBILEE, otherwise BALVET
Prepare, according to the directions given (No. 648), one and one-half pints of a purée of fresh peas, and add thereto one-half pint of consommé of “La Petite Marmite.” Set to boil, and finish with two oz. of butter.
Garnish with the vegetables from the Marmite, prepared as for Croûte au Pot.
727—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
Refer to the derivative soups of the “Purée de Pois” (No. 654).
728—POTAGE LAVALLIÈRE
Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713), finished with a leason of egg-yolks and cream; also [253] two-thirds pint of “Crème de Céleri,” similarly finished, and combine the two creams.
Garnish with twelve small profiterolles, stuffed with chicken forcemeat, and a royale of celery in dice.
729—POTAGE MADELEINE
Prepare and combine the following purées:—One-third pint of artichoke purée, one-fifth pint of haricot-bean purée, one-seventh pint of Soubise purée. Add one pint of white consommé; set to boil; pass through a strainer, and finish, when dishing up, with two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sago poached in one-half pint of white consommé.
730—POTAGE MISS BETSY
Proceed exactly as for “Potage à l’Aurore” (No. 715), but (1) flavour potage Miss Betsy with curry; (2) substitute for the celery peeled, cored apples cut into dice and cooked in butter.
N.B.—Both these soups (Aurore and Miss Betsy) are subject to much variation. All that is needed is to alter the flavouring element and the garnish. Thus the quantity of tomato may be reduced by half, and combined with one-quarter lb. of peas and their cooking-liquor (the peas in this case being cooked in one pint of water with a little salt and sugar); or with the same quantity of French beans, asparagus-heads, or sorrel cooked in butter, &c.
731—POTAGE MONTESPAN
Add one-half pint of somewhat thick tapioca to one and one-half pints of “Crème d’Asperges” (No. 697), prepared as directed. Garnish with very fine peas cooked in the English fashion.
732—POTAGE NÉLUSKO
Mix one and one-half pints of rather liquid poultry velouté with one-half pint of chicken purée. When serving, add an ordinary leason, and finish with two and one-half oz. of hazel-nut butter.
Garnish with very small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with one tablespoonful of hazel-nut powder per three oz. of the forcemeat.
733—POTAGE PETIT DUC
Take a fine woodcock; raise and reserve one of its fillets, and roast it, taking care to keep it very underdone. Then remove the other fillet, and with it prepare two dariole-moulds [254] of royale (No. 209). Finely pound what remains of the woodcock, and combine with the resulting purée one and one-half pints of game velouté prepared with essence of woodcock. Cover the stewpan and place it in the bain-marie for thirty-five minutes. Now rub the whole through tammy; heat without boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with one and one-half oz. of butter, one and one-half oz. of cooked foie-gras purée, diluted with a few tablespoonfuls of the soup, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of cream, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of burnt liqueur brandy.
Garnish with the royale cut into dice, and the reserved fillet of woodcock, stiffened in butter at the last moment, and cut into thin slices.
734—POTAGE RÉGENCE
Prepare one quart of barley cream in accordance with the directions under No. 712. Finish it, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter.
Garnish with twelve small, grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat finished with crayfish butter; one tablespoonful of small pearl barley, well cooked; and six small cocks’ combs, freshly poached and very white.
735—POTAGE ROSSOLNIK
Prepare (1) one quart of light, poultry velouté combined with cucumber juice; (2) ten pieces of parsley root and the same quantity of celery root, turned to the shape of small, new carrots, and split crosswise at their base; (3) twenty small lozenges of salted cucumber.
Parboil the roots and the cucumber lozenges for fifteen minutes, and add them to the velouté when about to cook the latter. Cook the whole gently for forty minutes, despumating the velouté the while. Finish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of cucumber juice, and an ordinary leason.
Garnish with small chicken-forcemeat quenelles.
736—POTAGE DE SANTÉ
Cook quickly, in salted water, three medium-sized, peeled, and quartered potatoes. When their pulps seem soft to the touch, drain them; rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute the resulting purée with one and one-half pints of white consommé. Add two tablespoonfuls of sorrel melted in butter, and finish the preparation with an ordinary leason and one oz. of butter.
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Garnish with very thin roundels of French soup-flute and
chervil pluches.
737—POTAGE SIGURD
Prepare one pint of “Velouté Parmentier” and one pint of tomato velouté. Combine the two; heat, and finish, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twenty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined with one coffeespoonful of chopped capsicum, or capsicum in dice, per three oz. of the forcemeat.
738—POTAGE SOLFERINO
Mince the white of two leeks, the third of a medium-sized carrot, and half an onion, and stew the whole in one and one-half oz. of butter. Add one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes cut into pieces, two medium-sized, peeled potatoes, minced; moisten with two-thirds pint of white consommé, and cook gently. Crush the vegetables; rub them through tammy; complete the purée with the necessary quantity of white consommé; set to boil, and finish, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with twelve little balls of potato, raised by means of the spoon-cutter, and cooked in salted water; two tablespoonfuls of French beans cut into lozenges; and some chervil pluches.
739—POTAGE VIVIANE
Prepare one quart of “Crème de Volaille” (No. 713), and finish it with the usual leason. Garnish with one tablespoonful of artichoke-bottom, cut into dice, the same quantity of carrot dice, both gently cooked in butter, and one tablespoonful of truffle dice.
740—POTAGE WINDSOR
Blanch and cool one small, boned calf’s foot, and cook it gently in a good white-wine mirepoix. Prepare one and one-half pints of “Crème de Riz” (No. 711), and add thereto the cooking-liquor of the calf’s foot, strained through muslin.
Finish this cream, when about to serve, with an ordinary leason, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a slight infusion of turtle-soup herbs, and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with a julienne of half of the calf’s foot and twenty small quenelles consisting of a purée of hard-boiled egg-yolks and chicken forcemeat, these two preparations being in the proportion of two-thirds and one-third respectively.
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741—SOUPE AUX ABATIS DE VOLAILLE A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the necks into three, the gizzards into four, and the pinions into two. Brown one-half lb. of these giblets in a thick-bottomed stewpan with one oz. of butter. Sprinkle with one tablespoonful of flour; slightly colour the latter, and moisten with one quart of white consommé and one pint of water. Add a faggot containing one stick of celery, and set to cook gently for three hours.
When the pieces of giblets are cooked, drain them, trim them, and put them into a stewpan with one dessertspoonful of parboiled rice and a heaped tablespoonful of the white of celery, minced and fried in butter. Strain the cooking-liquor of the giblets, through a strainer, over the enumerated garnishes; set to cook gently for another quarter of an hour; season strongly with pepper, and serve.
742—SOUPE AUX CERISES
Stone two-thirds lb. of small, fleshy cherries, and put twenty aside for garnishing purposes. Put the others into a sugar-boiler with two-thirds pint of hot water, a small strip of lemon rind, and a fragment of cinnamon, and set to boil quickly for eight minutes.
Also boil in another sugar-boiler one-half pint of Port or Bordeaux wine. Crush half of the cherry-stones in the mortar; put them into the boiled wine, and let them infuse, away from the fire.
Rub the cooked cherries through a fine sieve; dilute the purée with the juice thickened by means of one tablespoonful of fecula moistened with cold water; add the cherries put aside for the garnish, and one-half tablespoonful of castor sugar, and again set to boil for four minutes.
Complete the preparation with the infusion strained through muslin; pour it into the soup-tureen, and add a few biscottes.
For the sake of variety, lady’s-finger biscuits may be substituted for the biscottes.