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A Holiday in the Happy Valley with Pen and Pencil cover

A Holiday in the Happy Valley with Pen and Pencil

Chapter 25: APPENDIX IV
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About This Book

A travel memoir recounts an extended journey through Kashmir and parts of northern India, combining day-by-day journal entries with on-the-spot sketches and colored illustrations. The narrative moves from the voyage out and rail and road routes to camps and high margs, describing climate, seasons, luggage and clothing advice, and the practicalities of camping and local services. Vivid landscape passages portray lakes, valleys, mountain tarns, floods and hill resorts, while frequent observations of native boats, by‑ways and social life give texture to excursions to cities and historic sites. The tone alternates between practical guidance and personal impression, offering both a handbook for travel and a picturesque record of places visited.

APPENDIX IV

It may interest any one intending a trip to Kashmir to see a note of reasonable expenses as incurred by two people during a nine-month absence from England. Therefore I append a précis of ours.

It is to be remembered that a saving might be effected in many particulars by any one knowing something of the country. We had to buy our experience. Fully £10 or £12 could be saved in wages, as at first we had a fighting tail like “Ta Phairson” of “four-and-twenty men and five-and-thirty pipers”—and pipers have to be paid! We also hired tents when we did not really require them. Against these outgoings, however, it should be borne in mind that, thanks to the kindness of friends, we paid a merely nominal rent for a “State” hut at Gulmarg. At Abbotabad, Jaipur, and Udaipur, also, we had no hotel bills to meet.

PRÉCIS OF EXPENSES—TWO PERSONS

LONDON TO KARACHI (25 Days)

                                                   £   s.  d.  £   s.  d.
Half-Return fares, 1st class, London to Trieste,
  and thence by Austrian Lloyd (unaccelerated)    60   0   0
Hotels, sleeping-car, gratuities, wine bills, &c. 16  15   0
Baggage expenses                                   8  15   7
                                                       —————   85  10   7

BOMBAY TO LONDON (25 Days)

Share of fares                                    60   0   0
Hotel expenses and sundries, as before            10   6   8
Baggage expenses, dock dues, &c.                  17  11   4
                                                       —————  87  18   0

KARACHI TO SRINAGAR (16 Days)

Rail and baggage expenses to Pindi                12   6   8
Landau and two ekkas to Srinagar, inclusive of
   gratuities, tolls, &c.                         10  10   8
Hotels, Dàk bungalows, &c.                        13  18   9
Duty on firearms (repayable on leaving)            1  16   8
Resais, waterproof for luggage, kettles, &c.       1  19   3
Servant’s fare to Karachi, wages, &c.              2  12   8
                                                       —————  43   4   8
                                                            ——————-
                            Carry forward                  216  13   3

EXPENSES IN KASHMIR (6 Months)

                                                   £   s.  d.  £   s.  d.
            Brought forward                                216  13   3

Food, wine, washing, cigars, &c.                  72   7   3
Wages, inclusive of various clothes               42   9   9
Amusements, golf and tennis subscriptions, &c.    11   7   2
Hire of boats, tents and equipment                17   6   5
Transport coolies and ponies                      33  14  11
Hire of hut at Gulmarg                             5   6   8
Sundry furniture, cooking gear, yakdans, &c.       9   0   8
                                                       —————- 191  12  10

BARAMULA TO BOMBAY (1 Month)

Landau and four ekkas, with gratuities and tolls. 13  14   0
Dâk bungalows, hotels, &c.                        18   5   8
Wages, inclusive of gratuities                     6  14   0
Rail, Pindi to Bombay (viâ Udaipur)               16  17   0
Baggage                                            5   2   8
Hire of carriages, &c.                             1   4  11
                                                  —————  61  18   3
Loss by exchange on cheques.                                   5  19   7
                                                            ——————
                                      Total                  476   3  11
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