A Journey to Ohio in 1810, as Recorded in the Journal of Margaret Van Horn Dwight

worse & worse, & still M^r W- & his wife, tell us this is nothing to what will come- I do not fully believe them, for we cannot endure much more & live—Susan & young M^rs Jackson have been quite unwell all day— I never felt in better health, & my spirits are pretty good, considering all things— We are not able to get beds here, & are to sleep on the floor to night- There is another family here, with several little children— They say there has been a heap of people moving this fall;- I don't know exactly how many a heap is, or a sight either, which is another way of measuring people— I would be apt to think it was a terrible parcel, to use the language of the people round me—— I have such an enormous appetite the whole time, that I have been in some fear of starving- for food of every kind, is very scarce with us- Money will not procure it, & nothing else I am sure, will- for they love money better than life, if possible— 4 Sabbaths we have pass'd on the road, & I suppose 2 or 3 more will pass before we get among people who "remember the sabbath day to keep it holy"— We find no books to read, only at the bakers to day I found part of a bible, a methodist hymn book & a small book containing an account of the progress of Methodism throughout the country; in letters from Ministers & others——We left M^r Beach & family, at the tavern we left to day— I hope tomorrow to write you from a comfortable place 6 or 8 miles at least from the next mountain—

Monday morn- We have now I think met with as bad as can befal us— Never, never did I pass such a night—— We could get no bed & for a long time expected to be oblig'd to set up all night- but we could get no room nor fire to stay by, & the landlady was so kind as to give up her bed to us; so M^rs W & Susan went to bed there, while I went to bed with M^rs Jackson in another room- I took off my frock & boots, & had scarcely lain down, when one of the wretches came into the room & lay down by me on the outside of the bed- I was frighten'd almost to death & clung to M^rs Jackson who did not appear to mind it- & I lay for a quarter of an hour crying, & scolding & trembling, begging of him to leave me-At last, when persuaded I was in earnest, he begg'd of me not to take it amiss, as he intended no harm & only wish'd to become acquainted with me— A good for nothing brute, I wonder what he suppos'd I was- I don't know of any thought word or action of mine that could give him reason to suppose I would authorise such abominable insolence—— The man & his wife, who are here, & their family, John Jackson & his wife, & M^rs Jackson, were all in the room-The moment he left the room, I put on my frock & was going in to M^rs W & Susan, but I could not get to them without going thro' the room where all the waggoners were, & M^rs Jackson did not think it safe, so I got on another part of the bed where none of them could come near me, & had been there about 10 minutes when M^rs W & Susan came into the room both crying, & as much frighten'd as I had been, for one of the creatures had been into their room, & they could scarcely get him out- M^r W- was in the waggon, & the landlord was so afraid of these wag^gs that he did not dare stay in his own house, for they threaten'd to put him into the creek, if he did not continue giving them liquor- I wish they had put him in- a mean sneaking fellow!— His poor wife was then oblig'd to bear it all, & she was very much distress'd on our account- She was not to blame for any thing that happen'd, for as long as her husband suffer'd it, she could not prevent it-At last M^rs W- went to bed with M^rs Jackson & me, & Susan lay down with John & his wife- We lay but a few minutes, when one of them came into our room again crawling on his hands & knees- M^rs W & I sprung & run out into the mud in our stocking feet & were going to call M^r W.- but the creatures came out to us & begg'd us not to, & pledg'd their honor (of which you may suppose they possess'd a great share) that we should not be disturb'd more- & tenderness for M^r W- who we knew would be sick to day if depriv'd of rest, at length determin'd us to go back; but we did not go to bed again till just morning, when some of us slept nearly or quite an hour- which was every wink of sleep we could obtain during the whole night- The fellows were all but one, very still afterwards- Indeed there was but 2 who made any disturbance, & only one of those was very bad- but one, was a complete child of the evil one- the vilest, worst, most blasphemous wretch, that ever liv'd— M^r W- came back to the house before 2 oclock, & this morning, threaten'd them with a prosecution- They are quite angry- they are in the employ of this man who is moving; he is a merchant & they carry his goods to Pitts^g—

Nov^br-12^th Monday night- Nail Shop-on the 4^th Mountain

We have got 8½ miles on our journey to day, & now it rains again— If I could describe to you our troubles from roads, waggoners & creeks, I would,- but it is impossible— The waggoners set out just before we did & the bad one being foremost has taken all the pains in his power to hinder our progress, by driving as slow as possible & stopping every other moment- The road was too narrow to pass them, unless they would turn out for us- all but one did, but he swore he would not- We came by them as they stopp'd at noon, & put up to night at an inn on the mountain, out of the direct road, where we should peaceably pass the night- but the waggoners have follow'd us, & the house is full- They are not in our room— Our party now consists of M^rs Jackson's, M^r Beach's & M^r W's familys— The woman who is with M^r Beach, is such a foolish old creature, that we are all out of patience with her——She is aunt to them, I believe—— If I were to choose, I would never have company on a long journey- such company at least- Our chairs here are taken from us for the Waggoners—— Our road over the mountains, has not even a good prospect to render it pleasant— I have been repeating to Susan all day, "Comfort damsel &c"- M^rs Jackson is scolding because she has no chair to set on.- M^r W- tells her, "Fret not thyself because of evil doers"—— There is another impassable creek a head, & a hundred waggons waiting to cross it- Our prospect brightens fast-dont you think so? good night—

Tuesday eve- Nov- 13^th- 4 miles east of Bedford- Penn-

We have at length escap'd the waggoners & Mr Beach- The former did not trouble us last night at all in the night- When we went to bed they watch'd us narrowly, & after we were in bed we heard them talking about us, enquiring of each other where we slept &c- We were in the room with M^r & M^rs Wolcott, directly over the room they were in, but still I felt afraid of them- The worst one is quite mad, & says he intends if possible, to give us more trouble than he has done already- The other is quite asham'd of his conduct & I suspect would be willing to make any amends in his power- He told this to M^rs Jackson who is much too familiar with them, & I believe it was owing entirely to that, that they conducted so- for the rest of us always avoid even the sight of them, as much as possible; & much more any conversation with them— We got up very early indeed & set out before breakfast, because the horses could have no hay, & we have got quite out of their reach—We cross'd a little stream call'd the Juniaatta- I spell the names as they are pronounced, but I do not spell them right, I am sure, nor can I find out how they are spelt many of them- The river is long & narrow- It takes a winding course thro' the mountains, & is a very pretty stream— We rode some distance on its banks, & the road been tolerable, it would have been pleasant- I have said so much about the badness of the roads that you will hardly believe me when I tell you we seen some of the worst to day we have ever found- & some, as good as any in this state—— I should not have suppos'd it possible for any thing to pass it- M^rs W said it seem'd like going into the lower regions, but I had always an idea, that road was smooth & easy- I am sure if it was as bad as that, it would have fewer travellers-We went down however till we came to a lower region-It was really awful— We saw some men to day, mending the roads- I did not think a Pennsylvanian ever touch'd a road or made a bridge, for we are oblig'd to ride thro' every stream we come to-We have been nearly 20 miles to day; & have been oblig'd to walk up hill, till we are all very tir'd- I felt too much so to write, but I am unwilling to omit it- We are now, comfortably & quietly seated, in a private house- I only wish now, we could get rid of what company we have left- but that we cannot do——

Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford

We cross'd the Juniaatta again to day, with a great deal of trouble, after waiting on its banks about 3 hours- It is astonishing how the last week's rain, rais'd every stream & overflow'd every place-The like here, has not been known for 30 years it is said— A waggoner last week, with 4 horses, was drown'd crossing a creek- He was advis'd by those who were by, not to venture- & answer'd "he would be damn'd to hell if he did not cross it"- he made the attempt & in a few minutes was sent into eternity, & probably to that awful place—— It has been raining very fast this afternoon, & we put up at a little log hut, a few miles west of Bedford- we came about 10 miles to day- The house is very small & there is scarcely room to move-

Thursday night— Allegany M^tn Nov- 16-

We have had a warm & pleasant day till towards night, when it began to rain, as it has done every day for a fortnight- We are now at a tavern half a mile from the top of the Allegany Mt-this Mountain is 14 miles over- At the highest part of it is a most beautiful prospect of mountains- 5 or 6 ridges one after the other— We clamber'd up a high rock near to the highest part, but found the prospect little better than the one from the road- I wish I could describe it to you- We have had no prospect of any consequence from any of the mountains before- I have been quite disappointed at not seeing any—We found winter green berrys in abundance on it-I pick'd a sprig of ivy from the top, which I will send you- call it laurel & preserve it, as it came from the very backbone of America, as they all tell us—We have walk'd a great deal to day, & indeed we are oblig'd to every day, for the whole country seems one continued m^tn- I thought we had reach'd the top of this, for we began to descend a little; but we have half a mile more to ascend yet—— This house is full of travvellers & wag'^nrs but all are very peacable-There is a curiosity in the house- a young lady who has come from N Connecticut unmarried— after staying in Warren a year—a thing I never before heard of, & had begun to think impossible. I feel quite encouraged by it- & do not believe the place as dangerous as is generally reported—— I find in every family a Paggy- every body is dutch— the children & girls, are all very much attracted by my little black buttons, & the manner in which my frock is made-& the Wag'^rs by the colour of it- There will be little of it left by the time I get to Warren, for it is almost gone—

Friday night- Allegany M^tn—

After a comfortable nights rest, we set out on foot to reach the height of the m^tn- It rain'd fast for a long time, & at length began snowing- We found the roads bad past description,- worse than you can possibly imagine- Large stones & deep mud holes every step of the way- We were oblig'd to walk as much as we possibly could, as the horses could scarcely stir the waggon the mud was so deep & the stones so large—— It has grown so cold that I fear we shall all perish tomorrow- We suffer'd with cold excessively, to day- From what I have seen and heard, I think the State of Ohio will be well fill'd before winter,-Waggons without number, every day go on- One went on containing forty people- We almost every day, see them with 18 or 20- one stopt here to night with 21— We are at a baker's, near a tavern which is fill'd with movers & waggoners- It is a comfortable place, but rather small- One old man has been in examining my writing, & giving his opinion of it in dutch, to a young fellow who was with him- He said he could not read a word of any thing— He found fault with the ink, but commended the straitness & facility with which I wrote- in english- I was glad he had not on his specs—— We came but 10 miles to day, & are yet on the Allegany- It is up hill almost all the way down the mountains— I do not know when we are down them for my part—I'm thinking as they say here, we shall be oblig'd to winter on it, for I reckon we shall be unable to proceed on our journey, on account of roads, weather, &c— We are on the old Pennsylvania road- the Glade road is said to be ten times worse than this-That is utterly impossible- We thought we should escape the waggoners this way; but find as many of them as ever- they are a very great annoyance—— What would the old man say hereto?— I am very tir'd, so good night—

Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn-

We came but 9 or 10 miles to day, & are now near the 6^th Mountain- in a tavern fill'd with half drunken noisy waggoners— One of them lies singing directly before the fire; proposing just now to call for a song from the young ladies—— I can neither think nor write he makes so much noise with his love songs; I am every moment expecting something dreadful & dare not lay down my pen lest they should think me listening to them- They are the very worst wretches that ever liv'd, I do believe,—I am out of all patience with them- The whole world nor any thing in it, would tempt me to stay in this State three months- I dislike everything belonging to it—I am not so foolish as to suppose there are no better people in it than those we have seen; but let them be ever so good, I never desire to see any of them——We overtook an old waggoner whose waggon had got set in the mud, & I never heard a creature swear so- & whipt his horses till I thought they would die—I could not but wonder at the patience and forbearance of the Almighty, whose awful name was so blasphem'd— We also overtook a young Doctor-who is going with his father to Mad river in the state of Ohio—— He has been studying physic in New Jersey,- but appears to be an uneducated man from the language he makes use of——I believe both himself & his father are very clever- I heard them reproving a swearer— He dresses smart, & was so polite as to assist us in getting over the mud— Susan & I walk'd on before the waggon as usual, & he overtook us and invited us into the house & call'd for some brandy sling- we did not drink, which he appear'd not to like very well, & has scarcely spoken to us since—— He thinks himself a gentleman of the first chop, & takes the liberty of coining words for himself- Speaking of the people in this state, he said they were very ignorant & very superstitionary —perhaps you have heard the word before- I never did—

Sunday morn- We had good beds last night, contrary to my expectation,- and we are going on our journey this morning- It is extremely cold & very bad riding or walking- M^r W- has been so long detain'd by bad weather & riding, that he thinks himself justifiable in riding on the sabbath- I thought so some time ago—

Sunday noon- We are on the top of Laurel Hill, the 6^th mountain— We women & girls, have walk'd between 5 & 6 miles this morning— We left the waggons getting along very slowly, & came on to a house to warm us- It is a log hut & full of children, as is every one we come to— The wind whistles about us, & it looks very much like snow—— One waggon got set this morning, & hinder'd us this long time— The young Doctor & his father are still in company with us— The former, who has got over his pouting fit, leaves his father to drive,- while he walks on with the ladies- he is not with us just now— He has not conquer'd the antipathy I bear a young physician— or rather a young Doctor— How little it seems like the sabbath— I would not write if I could do any thing else— but I can not even think good thoughts——

Sunday eve— Nov-19^th— Foot of Laurel Hill—Penn—

I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world— He is either mad or a fool— I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I can make a writer— He is the most rating, ranting fellow— I wish you could hear him——I begin to think him mad— His name is Smith— He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio—— I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy— repeating a prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the Dutchmen in Pennsylvania— He & his wife came amongst them one evening & stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each one to the tavern— He began by stating his religious tenets, & at length after every body & thing was created, he says the under Gods (of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the skum & stir'd it up, & those fellows came out—or rather Hell boil'd over & they were form'd of the skum——I believe he has been studying all his life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a strange rate— His language is very ungrammatical—but the Jacksons are all in raptures with him—They cannot understand his language (nor indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such words without any connection—no matter if I do but bring them in some how— We are over the 6^th mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- This m^tn is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad luck— There is a great many travellers here-the house is full—— The young D^r told me he was married, to day— I like him rather better than I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting— Susan chose to ride down the hill, & I outwalk'd M^rs W, so we were quite alone till we reach'd this house- M^rs Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got here— I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can write no more to night.

Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd to pass the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I had a long crying spell— This morning I feel almost sick— M^r W-is so much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last— This strange man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about them- He has been repeating one of M^r Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- & one of M^r Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be nobody—— It rain'd very fast last night- & is more muddy than ever—

Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-

Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd— I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains— We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M^tn this afternoon- It is 5 miles over—12 miles we have come to day— There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the M^tn- One house on the top of it— We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an unpossibility (M^r Newington) I am more out of patience than ever— We came on to the 4^th tavern after we got down,- because we thought those behind us, would stop sooner- M^rs Jackson & her tribe were with us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all scream out- M^rs Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to talk us to death— He pass'd us on the road, singing & screaming, advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch— We are now 41 miles from Pitt——

Nov^br 21^st Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-

We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles— Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the D^r & his father-M^r & M^rs W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again— The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we were the night before, was very welcome— The landlord has been a waggoner-"Only look at that now"-A clever waggoner! I cannot but think his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his waggon—— After riding a little way, we overtook M^r Smith again, & found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by calling him a damn'd Yankee-before they ended M^r S- whipt 3 of them- I was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it— M^r S- lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will listen to him— As for the D^r, he is "nothing but a pester"- Susan & I took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife soon-We pass'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but M^r W- did not stop, so the D^r follow'd on & left his father, & waited at another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us to follow- The D^r came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his company— We have escap'd hearing M^r S- talk, which I would not be oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour-

Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably rains every day—

Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-

Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable addition to our party— We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented M^r W- from stopping at a private house, which we pass'd- I did not think of his wishing it till M^rs J-mentioned it, I then set out to return, but saw the waggon coming & sat down on a log- We did not reach a tavern till some time after dark- & M^r W-got hurt & his waggon got set-, & he feels unpleasantly towards me, & thinks me the whole cause of his trouble— The whole family feel & treat me differently this morning, & I can not think myself to blame- for we are oblig'd to walk almost all the time, & if we are behind the waggon M^r W- always is angry— M^rs W- Susan & I, were oblig'd to walk, till we found a house, & if the young D^r had not been with us, I don't know but we should have pass'd the night in the woods - but he was so good as to assist us - The gentlemen all reach'd the tavern before us, & when M^r W- came & told his trouble, they very kindly went back & assisted him— There were but two beds to be had, so M^r Smith gave up his place to me, & M^r & M^rs W took the other— The gentlemen were very noisy all night, as they could not lie down— I am much better pleas'd with M^r & M^rs Smith, than I was before- He is a lawyer- & I believe knows more, than I at first suspected— He is a great talker, & has a story for everything- We came 14 miles yesterday— To day I am so dreadfully lame that every step I take, almost brings tears- my feet are sore with walking-

Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-

One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our journey's end— Yesterday we came about 3 miles— After coming down an awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while M^r W-was attempting to unharness them, & M^rs W- & Susan were on the bank, calling for help— I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but was happily disappointed in my expectation— No assistance could be got- till M^r W- waded though the water, & then 2 men with 3 horses came over— We came to this Inn, & M^r W- thought it best to stay till this morning- All our company have gone on- M^r Smith invited me to ride with his wife, on to Pitts'^g- & I on some accounts, wish I had accepted his invitation-indeed I could scarcely get beside it—

We found a gentleman (Doctor I presume by his looks-) here, who was very sociable & staid an hour with us- He appear'd to be a man of good information & considerable politeness— We found the landlord very good natur'd & obliging, & his wife directly the contrary— We find the men generally, much more so than their wives— We are 12 miles from Pitt——& here like to be- The landlord offers to keep Susan & me, till spring, & let the old folks go on— We got into the slough of Despond yesterday-& are now at the foot of the hill Difficulty- which is half a mile long- one waggon is already fast in the mud on it- & M^r W- is afraid to attempt it himself—I think I will winter here——

Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'^g- Penn-

This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that little distance-M^r W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep it from lying down— We could not ride at all & stopt at the first tavern we came to—We are afraid the horse will die & then what will become of us?—— I am more than ever discouraged-

Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out again——

Nov^br 26- Saturday night- 3½ miles beyond Pittsburg-

Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, M^r W- found he had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon— M^r W- came about an hour after—— After getting well warm, Susan & I were going out to view the town, when M^r W- came & hurried us away, as he wished to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is not one half as large as I suppos'd- but I am unable to give you any account of it, from my own observation— It is situated at the confluence of the 2 rivers, the Alleghany, & Monongahela- The town suffer'd very much by the flood- One house floated down the river- its inhabitants were in the upper part of it calling for assistance-none could be render'd & what became of them I did not learn- I believe it is not known- It was late before we could cross the river (Alleghany) & we came on but 3 miles & a half to a very good tavern- The man & his wife are both good natur'd—We found the road to day, better than for a long time— We left almost all the stones when we cross'd the last mountain- & to day I believe we have cross'd the last hills of any consequence- We are now- "on the banks of the pleasant Ohio"——

Sunday eve- It has been all day & still is, raining another flood I fear- All the men in the neighborhood came here to keep the sabbath by drinking whiskey &c. &c- but no swearing— I sat reading very quietly & one of them came & desir'd to look over me- I very much doubted whether he could read, but he convinc'd me he could by his observations, which were given with such a tobacco breath as almost suffocated me- He was not more than half shaved, & could read without spelling more than half the words- for he would read a page & half in an hour, nearly— There is a sweet little boy here about 3 years old- He has been writing with me some time & talks so much to me that I am as slow writing as this man was reading— This is the 6th sabbath since I left you— We have lost our company—I quite want to see some of them again—

Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn-

I have had no opport^y of writing you for 3 days-before now- We set out in the rain on Monday, & came on 13 miles- to a hut- with a sign up call'd a tavern- & such a place!- I found the people belong'd to a very ancient & noble family- They were first & second cousins to his Satanic Majesty- I could but wonder that he should suffer them to lead so laborious a life, for they are among his most faithful friends & subjects— Probably they are more useful to him in that station, by increasing the number of his subjects— Their dwelling resembles that of their royal cousin- for it is very dark & gloomy & only lighted by a great fire- No one who is once caught in it, ever wishes to be again— The man is only related by marriage to his lordship——

Wednesday eve—

The house had only one room in it— There was a number of travellers & we got but one bed- that was straw or something harder- The pillow case had been on 5 or 6 years I reckon, so I pin'd over my handkerchief- & put night gown over my frock—We rose an hour before day break, got breakfast & set out in the snow for another hut- We rode several miles on the Northern bank of the Ohio- We saw a very large rock containing a great many names-we added ours to the number— The road was at the foot of a very high hill or mountain, & so near the river, there was scarcely room for a waggon- I rode in constant fear, for the bank down to the river, was very high and steep— We came on 12 miles, to Beaver town, on Tuesday- We cross'd the big Beaver, a stream which empties into the Ohio- It is generally, fordable, but is at present so rais'd by the rain, that a flat is used— We found a very good Inn at Beaver town; & soon after supper, Judge Austin & a M^r Weatherby (Merchant-) of Warren, came in—Not Dobson nor Stephenson)— I felt as glad to see them & as well acquainted with them in a few minutes, as if we had all our lives been neighbors—The Judge, resembles D^r Goodsel in his looks:- but is older & larger- M^r Weatherby looks like T. Devereaux—They both, told me they were sorry M^r Edwards did not know I was on the road, that he might have sent an horse after me— They were on their way to Pitt^g but Judge A, had some idea of returning immediately back to Warren, & they had a mind to hire a horse & have me return with him, but M^r Wolcott objected— I can guess his reason for it, but I will not write it— I very much wish'd it, as I fear I shall be oblig'd to walk a good part of the way- M^r W- says it would not hurt any of us to walk 9 miles every day of our lives- I told him I should not like to walk it in stormy weather, as we are now oblig'd to; but he said it would not hurt me if I shouldn't— I have already worn out my boots almost entirely, with walking— M^r W- is a very strange man- I don't know what to make of him —I shall be so thankful to get thro'- & then if I am caught with a Deacon of any name, again, I shall deserve to suffer— We are within 40 miles of Warren, & to be unable to get there under 4 or 5 days, is perfectly tantalizing— We came 10½ miles to day, & are at a very comfortable Inn, just in the edge of Greersburg- We expected to get a little further, to Hart's tavern quite in the town: & there I hop'd to see judge Austin again, & I determin'd at any rate to accept his offer of getting me a horse, & go directly on with him, for I do not intend to walk 9 miles a day till we get there, if I can help it- even if it will not hurt me— I won't take the good deacon's word for that. The horses are really tir'd out & out, & every day by the time we get 4 miles they will stop & it is extremely difficult to get them on at all- but it is so expensive hiring a horse to go on, that as long as the waggon alone, can be drawn 3 or 4 miles a day, it will not be done—but I feel provoked, as you will easily see, so I will write no more on this subject—— I am so anxious to end my journey, that I have lost all interest about the country I pass through— it snows or rains every day, constantly— I think in good weather, the ride from Warren to Pitts^g must be pleasant- If that were at present the case, my journal would be as much more interesting, as my journey would be pleasanter— I am quite tir'd of both, but still so habituated to them, that I think it will seem very strange for a few days after I end them, (if I live after that time) not to run out the waggon as soon as I have eaten my breakfast—& not to have my journal in my work-bag to fill it up— It is very troublesome I assure you— I fear it will be worn out before you get it- it is already very dirty, & so badly written you will never read half of it—

Thursday eve-

10 miles as usual has been our days ride— I have not walk'd my 9 miles, but I walk'd as much as I could- We are in a comfortable house before an excellent fire- It is snowing very fast—

Saturday- P M- Warren- After so long a time—

Friday morning we set out early with the hope of getting to Youngstown at night & to Warren to night, but 4 miles from Y——n, the horses were so tir'd they would not stir, so we stopt at a private house for the night, an hour before sun down— We had been in the house but a little time, when Susan look'd out & told me she thought there was some one after me, & I soon saw M^r Edwards & 2 horses— "I was never so happy I think"— I ran out to meet him- He came in & set a while, & just at dark we started for Youngstown— M^r Edwards insisted upon Susan's going with us, so she rode behind him, and I rode the single horse— We reach'd Cousin Joseph Woodbridge's about the middle of the eve— They got us a good supper & gave us a bed— M^rs W- is a very pretty woman (I mean pleasing)- They have 3 children, & appear to be very well off, (you understand me) & happy— They live in a very comfortable log house, pleasantly situated-A cousin in this country, is not to be slighted I assure you- I would give more for one in this country, than for 20 in old Connecticut— This morning M^rs Todd came over to see us, & urg'd us to stay & spend the day with her— But spite of her solicitations, we set out for Warren soon after breakfast—My horse was extremely dull & we did not get here till near 2 oclock— Cousin Louisa was as happy to see me as I could wish, & I think I shall be very happy & contented— The town is pleasanter than I expected- The house better- & the children as fine—Cousin has alter'd very little, in any way—I found a M^rs Waldo here just going to Connecticut, & lest I should not have another opport^y, I intend sending this by them, without even time to read it over & correct it— I am asham'd of it My dear Elizabeth, & were it not for my promise to you, I don't know that I should dare to send it— I will write your Mama by mail, I have not time for a letter now—My very best love to every body— I have a great deal more to say, but no more time than just to tell you, I am ever

& most affect^ly Yours-

M V D——

Let no one see this but your own family—