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A Manual of the Hand Lathe / Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of All Kinds, Ivory, Bone and Precious Woods cover

A Manual of the Hand Lathe / Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of All Kinds, Ivory, Bone and Precious Woods

Chapter 41: CHAPTER XI.
By Egbert P. Watson
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About This Book

A practical guide gives concise, hands-on instruction for operating small hand- and foot-driven lathes, explaining machine types, attachments, and jigs. It details cutting tools, scrapers, chasers, chucking methods, screw cutting, and metal spinning, then moves into ornamental and wood turning techniques and tool tempering. The manual surveys specialty woods and materials, step-by-step inlaying and mosaic procedures, veneers and dyeing, and finishing processes such as polishing, lacquering, varnishing, and soldering. Patterns, designs, and economical methods for producing decorative objects are included to help amateurs and mechanics execute intricate forms and finished surfaces efficiently.

CHAPTER XI.

WOOD TURNING.

Fig. 54.

In turning wood, the speed cannot be too high, or the tool too sharp. The faster the speed, the more perfect the surface produced by the tool. In centering, also, it is necessary to use care in getting a sound place to begin on; otherwise, when in the middle of a job, the centers change and the work is spoiled. This, of course, relates to work that is turned on centers, such as chess-men, penholders, rulers with ornamental ends, “what-not” legs; in fact, anything of that class. The driving center or one that goes in the head of the lathe, commonly called the live center—in opposition to the one in the back end of the lathe head, which does not move, and is called the dead center—should be properly made, or much confusion will be the result. Very many use the common bit, like Fig. 54, which is a very poor device for the purpose. There being no guard at the corners of the bit, they are liable to slip when strain is brought on the work by the tool; it is, therefore, necessary to make the driving bit, or center, like Fig. 55, which represents a section through the front edge and the flat pieces at the top, to prevent the work from slipping.

Fig. 55.

In turning very small work, say penholders for example, I have found centers useless to drive from, and after trying dogs, commonly used for metal turning, and many other devices, have found no more efficient or expeditious plan than to round the end of the wood slightly with a pocket-knife, as in Fig. 56; insert the rounded end in a chuck, and place the other in the back center. In this way, I am able to command the whole range of the work, from end to end, without interference, and to have the small tip where it is necessary to have it to keep steady; that is, near the center.

Fig. 56.

I saw all my pieces for turning, into square strips. I never split them; splitting shivers and cracks hard and precious wood, and makes unsound that which was previously sound.

Besides, it is more economical and more expeditious. If you cannot saw them yourself, handily, take them to the nearest wood-worker who has a circular saw, and he will do it for a trifle.