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A sailor's life under four sovereigns, Volume 3 (of 3)

Chapter 37: CHAPTER C
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About This Book

The volume continues the author's naval memoirs, offering eyewitness narratives of river and coastal engagements in East Asia alongside accounts of wider imperial and diplomatic service. It moves between vivid small-boat actions and fleet operations, descriptions of commands at distant stations, visits to regional ports and settlements, and episodes of sport and shore life. Interspersed are logistical and administrative detail, travel impressions, maps and illustrations, and reflective observations on officers, local societies, and the burdens of command, closing with voyages home and parting remarks that summarize a long career at sea.

CHAPTER C

The China Command

1869. Yokohama, June 23.

Some man remarked that having lost half an hour on coming into the world, he was never afterwards able to make up the lost time. My journal has got three days behind, and I feel that I shall not be able to make it up. This is an attempt. My temper, too, ruffled by a vet who, I believe, poisoned Mrs. Fitzroy’s grey pony.

June 24.

The American Admiral arrived on the 21st and a Prussian corvette on the 22nd, when much saluting of three admirals with their returns took place. Hakodati invested, but still holding out. Yesterday commenced housekeeping on our own account, obtaining our hospitable host’s permission. Children taking kindly to a day governess after desperate opposition by Colin. Blowing too hard to return calls afloat. Called on the Netherlands Consul, who was entertaining a party of twenty Dutchmen who claimed me as a countryman, and with pleasure we liquored up in sweet champagne. Colin enjoying the substantials.

June 27.

On starting for church this morning, the card of Don José de Grandaria, ex-Captain-General of the Philippines, was put into my hand. He had arrived by the American mail en route for Europe, viâ San Francisco. Good fellow that he is, he came to luncheon, and if possible will dine; glad of an opportunity of returning a trifle of his hospitality. News from Hakodadi of the capture of the town by the Imperialist troops and total destruction by explosives of two of Kerair ships. They, however, still hold the forts.

June 29.

Mounted Colin on the pony “Ko” and gave him his first lesson in riding.

June 30.

Had the Rodney’s steam launch ready yesterday evening to convey my good friend, the Governor of Manila, on board the mail steamer. We first became acquainted in 1837 when he was Governor of Fernando Po.

July 4.

The shock of an earthquake was felt about 1 A.M. Clearing up in the afternoon, Colin mounted his pony before I had got hold of the tow-rope. Colin touched him with the whip to close with me. The pony, being fresh, gave a jump and a kick, placing the little man on what he called his “bob” on the road, and scampered up His Excellency’s soft turf.

Soon after midnight a sensation was caused by the report of firearms. Guards were turned out. Sir Harry Parkes saddled, ordered his escort, and scouts were sent into the town to ascertain the cause. It proved to be a few Americans sitting up late to usher in the anniversary of their nation’s Independence.

July 5.

The French mail brought news of my promotion. The flag was shifted to the main and saluted, all foreign men-of-war following suit. Parkes off for Yedo. He is indeed a zealous, active Minister. The anniversary of American Independence is to be kept to-day. Our ships are dressed with flags; the stars and stripes will be saluted at noon by a royal salute. Hear that our friend Mrs. Alt, who took such care of Algie Heneage and myself at Nagasaki when we were ill, has had a bad fall from her pony, which fell with her over the edge of a bank, a drop of some fifteen feet, kicking her twice in the chest. Called to inquire, and found Mrs. Alt in the garden. Her ribs were dented, not broken.

Mrs. Alt.
July 7.

The French mail brought Challier, the successor to Commodore Jones. Challier commanded the Newton when I had St. Jean d’Acre in the Tagus. Am left the senior and oldest of all the Naval Commanders on the station. Stanhope, Crossman, and self inspected yesterday afresh the site of the Naval Hospital, the erection of which has now been four years in contemplation by the Admiralty.

The advantages and saving to the country in money, as well as in transport of invalids, who could be easily cured in this fine climate, has been admitted from the beginning. Then again, the idea that the authorities at home should know better the style of building required than those on the spot has been the cause of the interchange of plans and surveys. Plans sent out not suitable to the climate, and again each successive Government not having the courage to insert the cost in the naval estimates, the expense now, if the hospital is ever built, will be more than double what it would have been had it been erected when its advantages and economy were first acknowledged.

July 8.

To luncheon yesterday on board Ocean: everything perfect, in Stanhope’s usual style. Afterwards to Rodney, taking children. She being ordered home, had all sorts of live animals. Among them were two bears, who had the run of the ship. In the summer months hammocks were little used; the bears lay where they liked, the men using them as pillows. Each bear would accommodate ten or a dozen at a time. By day they were all over the place, generally aloft, in the tops or along the yards, from which they could see every arrival on board.

My daughter was a small four-year-old. While on the poop she found herself rolling along the deck in the embrace of a bear she had not before seen. Of course she was immediately released. She knew not what fear was. The next moment she had seized one of the mizzentopmast broomsticks, and the bear made the best of his way aloft. He was a young Siberian given me by Etholin, brought here by the Juno from Hong Kong; by which ship friend Hugh Low sent us four Sulu pearls.

July 10.

My servant, Ah Ho’s right eye black and swollen, painted so, not for the first time, by my man Fuller—who goes!

A boat-race came off on Saturday between the United States Iroquois and Ocean. Iroquois held the challenge cock they had won from our Zebra, and published some tall talk in Yokohama papers. The American boat was a double-banked whaler, the Ocean’s a twelve-oared cutter. A fresh breeze. Betting in favour of the American boat, on which some $1500 had been invested. The American officers had been on board Ocean with their bag the evening before, and remained until every dollar they brought was covered.

Never was such an example: the course five miles. The first three strokes sent the Ocean a length ahead, which advantage they kept, winning by five minutes. Law, the Commander of Iroquois, guessed he would have to resign the “chicken” he had taken such care of.

July 13.

Wrote Cooper Key asking him to appoint Gye Gunnery-Lieutenant of Ocean on recommission.

July 14.

Was introduced to the new bear, a cub resembling the older one. Band played at Jardine’s. Colin’s pony evinced his dislike to Europeans by kicking one of the escort, then Webb, and also trying it with me. Got on his back and quieted him, on the strength of which he afterwards kicked one of Herbert Smith’s servants, and near home lifted up his heels without unseating the small Colin. Parkes returned from Yedo; had Kassim and the curry cook to let him know what a good curry was.

July 20.

On Sunday we attended divine service on board Rodney and lunched with Algie Heneage. Yesterday was an eventful one in my small way. Inspected the old Rodney for last time. Had a farewell luncheon in the ward-room. Was absent in Salamis eighteen months out of two years. Hoped to have had the last year on board Rodney when this unfair order comes to send her home.

July 21.

Band playing at Jardine’s. M‘Hardy, Nepean, and Heneage to dine. While enjoying cigars the report of a gun from seaward, followed by a couple of rockets, announced arrival of English mail. Promotion of mates in Rodney. Bath in all its degrees conferred. I passed over for the G.C.B. Death of my old Chief in Crimea, Charles Freemantle, has placed me at the head of the Vice.

July 25.

Got out in the evening yesterday for a ride with Colin. Had Algie Heneage to dinner, Bamber, Woodruffe, Ogle, and Simley. As Cormorant was going to the northward, made her signal to weigh and take us in tow. As we got away, Ocean manned rigging and yards to the very trucks. They used aloft, with pretty effect, small boat flags, and gave three hearty cheers to the parting ship, such as Britishers only give. The American Admiral and Italian ships likewise gave parting cheers. After luncheon with Algie Heneage, some four miles from the anchorage we bade the old Rodney farewell.

It is seldom that relationship has the same hold on a sailor’s affections as that of a shipmate. They manned the rigging and repeated hearty parting cheers. After we had quitted her, the flag was transferred to Ocean and saluted by Rodney. French mail in. Article in Saturday Review, May 29, on “English Policy” in China refers to the actions of Gurdon and Domville at Swatow and Formosa last year. Local papers defend my policy.