Fort Jackson is a large construction, mounting seventy guns of the largest calibre. The ravine round the fort is two miles long and very strongly fortified. At this fort were a great many alligators, and we went on shore and amused ourselves by catching them until prevented by the guard around the fort. Fort Phillips lies opposite Fort Jackson on the right of the Mississippi, and is the place where the rebels committed the great outrage on the colored soldiers. It is a large fort mounting sixty large guns and the small ones I did not number, but there were a great many of them. The 10th U.S. heavy artillery was guarding these forts and looked well. I could not help thinking of the cruelty that had been done to the poor colored soldiers here at this spot; although a month had passed it was fresh to me.
At 6 o'clock on the evening of the 29th the despatch came from General Grant to Col. Sadrick to take the Blackstone and go to New Orleans and get her repaired, and get coal and oil. Nothing but the staff officers were allowed to go along. This caused some dissatisfaction, but they had to submit. The 29th was landed at Fort Phillips, and on Saturday the 30th inst. with Col. W.B. Wooster of the 29th, Lieut. Col. Torance, Adjutant Spalding and lady, Lieut. Leonard and lady, Capt. Griswell and lady, Lieut. M.D. Lee, and a few more of the 29th officers, we proceeded up the Mississippi towards New Orleans. There were but three colored men allowed to go; these belonged to Colonel Sadrick's headquarters, and I was one of the lucky men. The day passed very pleasantly—Col. W.B. Wooster having his string band on board; in the evening the officers got up a dance, and amused themselves until a late hour, when we laid down to sleep, resting securely in the arms of hope. The morning of the 31st at six o'clock, found us at the wharf in New Orleans. I proceeded with Col. Sadrick and staff to the St. Charles hotel, where they took rooms. This was one of the largest and best hotels in the city, and a great many officers stopped there. I was much pleased with the hotel, but it being Sabbath I left and started to find the house of God; that was the disposition of my mind. Very much to my surprise when going up Congress st. I met a colored friend, and I asked him if he could tell me where the minister of the A.M. E. Church stopped. He pointed to a door and said "In there." I went in and to my surprise and joy found Rev. William A. Dove, one of my old friends. He treated me very kindly, and I took a seat and we had a chat over old things, while he was getting ready for church. I told him I wanted a place to board, and up to this time I had no breakfast. He took me to sister Vance's and introduced me; she made me welcome and got me a good breakfast; I found her to be much of a lady. I went to church and found Rev. Mr. Dove on the stand and was much pleased with his discourse from the passage of scripture, "But having faith we can withstand the wiles of the Devil:" he did justice to the subject. In the afternoon I went to the same church at 4 o'clock to hear one of the natives of New Orleans; his text was in Numbers, "If God be God, serve him; if Baal, serve him." He did well. The appointment was then given out for me to preach in the evening at 7 o'clock. I went according to appointment and found the house crowded to excess with all classes, both white and colored, very eager to hear the soldier. I took my text in Isaiah, 3d chap. 10th verse, "Say ye to the righteous that it shall be well with him." We had a good time; surely the Lord was with us and blessed us, and I felt the power of my station. When we adjourned I went to my lodging place at Mrs. Vance's.
On Monday, the 1st of July, I was visited by some old friends from Philadelphia—Dr. Rock, Prof. Seymore, Prof. Murray and the chorister. We all met at Capt. Ingram's and spent some time together. I was glad to meet them and they to meet me. We parted and met again at 3 P.M. at dinner and spent a good time. After dinner I went out to visit the city and made several very pleasant calls.
Tuesday, the 2d, I again met my friends at Mrs. Vance's, and spent a part of the day. I often went to the St. Charles hotel to see my officers; and Wednesday, the 3d, the Colonel informed me that we should leave the next morning. Accordingly the next morning, 4th of July, we went on board the Blackstone. The only demonstration made in honor of the great national day was the firing of cannons on the gun boats. At 8 o'clock we were stemming the rapid tide down the Mississippi. When we were six miles from New Orleans the transport took fire and caused great confusion among both passengers and crew. The little life boats were lowered and all the ladies got into them but Mrs. Torance, and she stood on the deck to watch the result. When the word was given that the fire was out, and when the confusion was over we got up steam and went on our way rejoicing. We arrived at Fort Phillips at 5 P.M., got the balance of the 29th regiment, and then went to the De Molay, laying at the mouth of the inlet which we reached at 8 P.M., and went on board. We waited until the morning of the 5th inst. and then got up steam and started for Brazos Santiago, Texas. The gulf was very rough, and I was taken sick soon after we started. The 6th inst. found me still sick. The 7th we reached Brazos and disembarked, and the moment I got on shore I was better. Brazos has a miserable sandy beach. At that time the headquarters of the 25th corps were standing in water knee deep. We remained at this post two days. It was the most miserable place I ever saw. Here our suffering just commenced. The colored troops were landing hourly almost famished for the want of water, and it was cruel no water was provided but condensed water, and but little of that. The poor soldiers suffered greatly, for the means of making condensed water were so limited that not more than 5,000 could be applied at one time, and there were more than 10,000 soldiers there, and for what we did have we paid ten cents per canteen. The troops were kept on forage during their two days stay at this point. The 8th inst. I went to the landing and the Mexicans had got a boat and brought barrels of water out of the Rio Grande, and the Provost Marshal had given them a guard of colored men to sell the water to the soldiers for ten cents a canteen. Col. Sadrick became indignant at the situation of his command and the fare they had to put up with, and went to the commanding General, Weitzel, and asked permission to move his troops from Brazos, which was granted, and in the evening of the 8th inst. we took up our line of march for White Rench on the Rio Grande, a distance of ten miles, where we arrived at 1 A.M. We had a hard march through mud up to our knees, and water in some place four feet deep and a mile long. When we arrived at White Rench the poor soldiers were almost famished for the want of water, and they rushed on to the bank, it gave way, and seven of the third division were drowned. The Rio Grande is noted for the rapidity of its waters and is always muddy. We soon went to sleep and in the morning I arose early, and the first object that attracted my attention was a drowned man floating down the stream. When the sun rose I took a look over the country and not a tree was to be seen as far as the eye could behold, and in fact we had not seen a single one in our ten miles march from Brazos to White Rench. We remained in camp the 9th inst. until 5 P.M. when the order was given to the 2d division to get ready to move to Brownsville, twenty-eight miles distant. At this time the sore trial began with both officers and men, about their knapsacks and baggage; not a horse could be furnished to the commanders or wagons either, except one to each regiment. When the brigade was ready to move, Col. Sadrick came up to me and said, "Hill, you had better stay here with my things a few days as the roads are bad and very muddy: I will leave Lieut. Hamilton with you, and you can come up on the boat." Being somewhat fatigued I was glad to comply.
When the division moved I stood and looked after the column until the line was lost to view, and then I returned to my lonely tent, and it appeared as if I were the only living man in Texas. During the evening some friends called on me from the 31st colored regiment and we spent the evening as pleasantly as we could, the theme of our conversation being our beloved friends at home and our dissatisfaction at what we had seen of Texas. When my friends left for their camp I lay down on my lonesome bed to sleep, having the starry decked heavens for my canopy and the green earth for my pillow.
The morning of the 10th I arose at 4 o'clock, and as was my habit, I took a walk up the river. The sun arose beautifully and clear with a pleasant breeze. At 8 A.M. the Lieutenant took breakfast, and while at the table said, "Mr. Hill, I am going to Brazos at 9 o'clock, and I want you to take charge while I am absent." I complied. After he left I began to feel more lonesome than ever and to think of my beloved family, until I became quite home-sick, and the day appeared like a week. In the evening, at 10 o'clock, the Lieutenant returned hungry and tired; after he had supper he said to me, "We will not be able to get away from here for a week. I can get no transportation." I enquired the cause; he said, "The roads are so bad the wagons can't run, and we have but one boat running to Brownsville, and it is loaded down with rations for the men, as there are none at Brownsville." I thought this singular, but did not reply until he was through, and then I said, "Lieutenant, when did the brigade get to Brownsville?" he said, "They will get there this evening sometime." I was a disbeliever in the 29th not marching twenty-eight miles in two days when I knew them to march sixteen miles from 4 in evening until 2 in the morning, and having marching orders at that, and went into a fight the next morning at 6 o'clock. I had not forgotten their marching ability, therefore it was a wonder to me why they should be so long going twenty-eight miles.
I had sent the mail ahead, consequently I made up my mind to walk up next morning. In the evening there were a great many sick soldiers returned that were unable to go through the mud and were therefore compelled to turn back. They spoke very discouragingly of the journey. I went for the doctor for some, and for others made tea and gave them something to eat. When the poor soldiers that knew me found I was there, I never saw men so glad in my life. They had met me on the battle-field, and had seen the interest I had ofttimes taken in the sick and wounded soldiers, therefore they were satisfied I would see they were treated right and had something to eat. After I had seen them all attended to, I laid down to rest, it being late at night.
The morning of the 12th inst. came. I arose at 5 o'clock and got my breakfast and took my books and portfolio, bid the Lieutenant good-bye and started on foot for Brownsville. I thought of getting to my post that day, but I had not gone more than six miles before I saw my expectations were blasted. It had not rained in this part of Texas for six weeks, and yet the mud in the roads was in places up to a man's knees and for miles hub deep. I was astonished to see the many stragglers strewed all along the road. Many of them died and were buried in the forest, with nothing to look at their graves but the wild beasts of prey. I walked on until 1 P.M. and was only ten miles from White Rench, the place I left. I sat down and ate my homely dinner alone. I bowed to God and thanked him for his goodness and care over me and committed my family to his care, I then started on my journey again. Being accustomed to smoking after eating I got sick going without it, not having any matches or fire with which to light my pipe. In all my journey there was not a house to be seen. I went on wishing in my mind that I had a light, and while I was walking I came to where the troops had halted and had a fire in the road. There were two small chunks lying in the road. I took one of them up and said, "I wish I had got here before this went out." I blowed the chunk on the end, and to my surprise, right in the heart was a live coal of fire about as large as a hickory-nut. I lit my pipe and felt thankful. I carried the chunk some ways, and thought the good Lord had provided this comfort of life for me, when in a land of strangers and far from home.
When I left White Rench in the morning, I had two haversacks filled with rations, but I had by this time reduced them down to two hard tacks, for I had met so many poor soldiers sick and given out, left behind with nothing to eat. I shared with them until the last was gone. I found I would not be able to get to Brownsville that night, and I said to myself, "What will I do for something to eat?" but I thought the Lord would provide something for me; therefore, I trusted in him as my provider and shield. The evening began to draw near and I was seven miles from Brownsville and two of that was water waist deep. At 7 P.M. I arrived at the first water, which was a run about eight rods wide and four feet and a half deep. Here I met with a large number of sick, worn and wearied soldiers; they were getting supper, and when they saw me they were made up and gave me a nice supper. We all concluded to stop there over night, and cross the run in the morning. We soon laid down and I said "Boys, I don't think it proper for all of us to go to sleep, and I will take the first watch. This country don't suit me." The men soon fell asleep, and I lay on the ground and looked at the beautiful moon, and listened to the many sounds of the great number of strange beasts of the forest. I laid there until 2 o'clock and was thinking of my home and beloved friends, when my attention was aroused by a drove of dogs as I thought, coming through the bushes. I got up and then they began to howl and I found them to be a drove of wolves. There was a stream of water between them and us, and they would wade in a piece and then go back and howl. I then called the boys to "attention," and fifteen of them took their guns, and I gave the order "fire," and they fired into the drove of wolves, and I never saw such scampering in all my life. They howled and left, and the boys all staid awake the rest of the night.
The morning of the 15th came and they got breakfast and gave me mine, after which we all started across the run and left our things; then I went back and carried a sick man over. I bid the boys good bye and then started on to Brownsville. I had travelled only two miles when I came to a pond of water about two miles long and about knee deep; this we had to wade through; it made me very tired; my limbs appeared as if they were pulling out of the sockets, but I got through and arrived in Brownsville at 12 M. I expected to find a town settled with people and where the true God was worshipped, but to my surprise I could see nothing but little huts made of mud. The natives are very inferior, and dress very strangely. The men wear only a shirt and drawers, and when at work they roll their drawers up to their hips, and also go through the streets in that manner. The women go through the day with nothing on them but a chemise and a thin skirt made of straw, their bosoms open and breasts exposed, and when one looks at them they seem to have no shame. I remained in the town until 2 o'clock and then put off for headquarters, which were two miles to the right of Brownsville. I reached there at 4 P.M. and all were glad to see me. I found Col. Sadrick without a tent and laying on the ground; I got the men and had him a tent put up that night, and I laid down out of doors. The ground was covered with lizards, frogs, and what is called the horned toad, which has horns like a goat, and a wreath of beads around its body; they look bold and courageous. These reptiles were numerous, with details of musquitoes like swarms of bees. The morning of the 4th inst. found me quite sick, so much so that I had to call in a doctor. He examined me and said I was ruptured from the strain of walking. I began to decline until I was unable to get about, and I almost gave up in despair when I looked at my condition, five thousand miles from home and among strangers without a friend. My best friend, Jordan Jones, of Co. K, was left behind. The company to which I belonged was at Brazos, and I was left to the mercy of God and strangers. In the midst of my illness I had a kind physician, Dr. Perry, of the 11th U.S. colored regiment. He treated me kindly and gave me the best of attention. I remained at my quarters until the 15th inst. and then my regiment came up to Brownsville. The men were very much fatigued, Captain Clark being an officer with very little feeling for a colored man, marched them through in one day. Mr. Frank Walker died on account of the hard march and great heat. Many more were sick and were obliged to be sent to the hospital. Col. Wooster being a man of feeling, and one that looked to the interest of the regiment and the welfare of the men, put Capt. Clark under arrest and kept him there until the Col. resigned; but three days after the Col. left he again took command of the company. I remained sick at my quarters until August the 18th, when I was recommended to the War Department for my discharge by Dr. Perry. Col. Sadrick had an ambulance brought and I started to be mustered out, but when I got to Brownsville I was so near dead that I was compelled to go to the general hospital. This hospital was kept under the direction of Dr. Major Stevens from Philadelphia, and belonged to the 29th colored regiment. The doctor treated me with the utmost kindness and gave me the best of attention. At this post I witnessed the most brutal treatment (not to me but to others.) There were seven hundred sick in this hospital, four hundred of that number in the ward with me.
The hospital stewards and nurses were men with no human feeling. The poor sick were dying ten per day, and before they were cold the hospital stewards would search them, and take any thing valuable that they found about them before they reported them dead. On one occasion there was a small boy, who had waited on some officer, that was quite sick, and one morning he was quite fretful. One of the ward masters went to him and struck him with a strap three blows, then took him up and made him walk to the door leading to the street, and brought him back again and laid him down, and in one hour he was dead, and the spirit had flown to the God that gave it. It would be impossible for me to tell the many instances of cruelty perpetrated on the poor sick soldiers by the hands of these colored stewards. They acted more like demons than human beings. The fare was also very bad; we had two pieces of bread and a pint of coffee per day; this we were compelled to put up with. I remained at this hospital two weeks and then asked the doctor to let me go to my quarters, which he granted, and I took the ambulance and again returned to the 25th headquarters. I remained there until a general order came that all detached men unable for duty should report to their regiments and be sent to the hospital. Therefore I went to my regiment, and to my regret when I got there my best friend, Col. W.B. Wooster had resigned and started home. I went and reported to Adjutant J. Spaulding and he directed me to my company, where I went and reported to my orderly, J. Spencer, of Co. D. He gave me my quarters and I stayed there one week and then was put on detail to go to New Orleans; I got ready and we went to Brownsville, and the order was countermanded, and we returned to camp the next morning. There I was again detailed at the headquarters of the corps, where I stayed until the 20th of September, and then I had some words with one of the General's waiters, and I would not stay any longer and again went to my regiment, where I was at the time of writing this sketch.
At this period of my stay in Texas joy began to spring up. We had just received news that the 29th regiment was ordered home. The men began to have the home-fever and it became general. Every day the men in camp had appointed to be mustered out of the U.S. service, but without avail. At last the happy day arrived and all hearts were glad. On the 14th day of October, 1865, at nine A.M., Co. K was mustered out; Captain Thorpe was in command of Co. K at this time. Then came Companies C, E, and D to which latter I belonged; H, G, F, B, and so on until the last company was mustered out. The occasion was one of note. Every man was orderly and sober. All were eagerly waiting the order to strike tents for home, for that was the theme of every one's thoughts. We now hoped to leave Texas for home and trusted in God for our safe arrival.
October 15th, the 29th regiment left camp Sadrick, Texas, for Brownsville, on their way home and were escorted through Brownsville by the 9th U.S. regiment, Col. Bailey in command. We marched to an open field where the battalion was halted by Col. Torance, and the officers and men of the 9th U.S. regiment took leave of the 29th. It was an impressive scene. The 9th and 29th had shared the greatest dangers together, and fought side by side, and now they were parting. We shook hands and they bid us God speed. The headquarter band, Gen. Smith's, escorted us through Brownsville. The line of march was taken up again at 10 A.M. The band played "And beneath the starry flag we shall breathe the air again," until the footsteps of the 29th were lost in profound silence. The 43d U.S. left the same day. The day passed off pleasantly, although the roads were bad and ofttimes the men were compelled to wade in water and mud waist deep, the thoughts of going home made the march seem easier than any other we had been in. No one can experience the feelings of a returning soldier but one that has been a soldier. I was left sick at Brownsville, unable to march when the 29th left, consequently I went on the boat down the Rio Grande with the sick. Wednesday the 15th, we left Brownsville. After sailing down the Rio Grande, night overtaking us, we were compelled to land on the Mexican side and stay all night. It stormed all night and we spent a disagreeable time.
The next morning, the 17th, we passed Clarksville on the Mexican side, and landed at Brazos, and camped on the sand all night; the air was clear and cool. We had a rough time coming from Clarksville to Brazos outside, and came near being lost, but we landed safely at 4 P.M. The 20th was clear and cold—the 22d U.S. troops left Brazos on a transport for New Orleans. The 21st was pleasant. The 22d found us still waiting for transportation. At this point I had a chance to see all of our sick, numbering forty-eight. I was called at 2 o'clock to go and see Chancey Douglas of Co. C, 29th regiment. He was very sick, but I gave him good counsel and he got better and was able to come along at 12 M. when we embarked on board the transport Alabama, and at 4 P.M. we weighed anchor, bound for New Orleans. The 24th, the gulf was so rough that we could not sail, and were compelled to anchor on account of the gale. We weighed anchor again at 8 A.M. on the morning of the 25th, bound for Galveston, Texas, where we arrived at 12 M. We found Galveston a splendid city, four hundred and fifty miles from New Orleans. Here we took in wood and coal, and in the evening visited the city and the churches there. One of the soldiers of Co. H died, by the name of Davis; how true that "In the midst of life we are in death." Dr. Hyde deserves great credit for the consideration he showed. He got a nice plain coffin, the only one I had seen for four months for a colored soldier. The night of the 20th we were in a dreadful gale off Cape Horn, so much so that the pilot was compelled to lay by all night in the harbor. It was the most severe storm I ever witnessed. We put out to sea in the morning but were compelled to turn back. The soldiers were quite unruly while we lay at Galveston, so much so that Col. Torance was compelled to have the transport hauled off from the wharf, and some of the men were left ashore that went off without leave. The 26th we started again for New Orleans, but we were compelled to come back and lay in the harbor; we came near being lost, but God was with us. The 27th we again started, bound for New Orleans, where we arrived on the 28th inst. at 7 A.M. We had a hard time and often thought it was our last, but the good Lord was with us. We went off the transport Alabama the same day we arrived, and marched to the south side of the city and encamped on an open lot, and put up our shelters the best we could and laid on the ground. The night was cold and chilly; we suffered a great deal and many took sick.
The 29th inst. was the Sabbath, a most beautiful day. I remained in camp. On the 30th I visited the city of New Orleans and found a great number of my old friends. The first annual session of the A.M. E. Conference was in session, Bishop Campbell presiding. I spent a good time with the brethren. The 31st was a pleasant day and I was in camp. We remained in New Orleans two weeks. On the night of the 10th of November a man of Co. K was shot. There was quite an excitement in camp on account of it. We broke camp on the 11th inst. at 11 o'clock, and marched through the principal streets of the city and halted at the wharf, where the transport Champion laid to take us on board.
There was quite an excitement in the city of New Orleans. While the drum corps played a national air; at 6 o'clock we commenced to embark on the steamer Champion, and by 9 o'clock all were on board ready to weigh anchor and stem the current of the Mississippi river. The morning of the 12th found us at the mouth of the river, and we were overtaken by a storm which lasted several days. On the 14th the sea was so rough that it broke over the hurricane deck. On the 15th inst. we had a pleasant sail; we passed the rebel ram Stonewall. Friday, 15th, head wind. Saturday, 17th, was pleasant, and the first calm day we had. Sunday, the 18th, was clear and cold. The 19th inst. we encountered a storm off Cape Hatteras, which lasted until the 21st. At 12 o'clock the wind changed and drove us ahead with great rapidity, and on the 22d, at 9 A.M., to the joy of all on board, we arrived in New York Harbor. We remained on board the Champion until 2 P.M. and then marched off the transport and paraded through the principal streets of the city and were received with gratitude amid great cheers from the citizens. The boys of the 29th were feeling somewhat indignant in reference to the treatment they received from their State, it not giving them their rights. But we forgot it for the time, from the manner in which the citizens of New York received us.
As we paraded down Broadway, opposite the St. Nicholas hotel, the City Council run out the national and state colors, borne by a colored man. When the boys looked up and saw the colors, they gave three tremendous cheers. We went down Broadway to the Park and quartered in the barracks, where we were decently accommodated with refreshments and hospitality.
We remained in New York until the 23d; and at 7 A.M. we marched to the steamboat landing where the steamer Granite State was waiting to take us up the East River, to Hartford, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. The Granite State struck on a bar and was unable to arrive at Hartford until the morning of the 24th inst. The villages were illuminated on our way. On the morning of the 25th we arrived at Hartford, and a great reception was made for us. We paraded through the principal streets and encamped on an open lot in the south part of the city, until the morning of the 26th inst., at 8 o'clock, when we were ordered to "fall in," and were paid off in part. Afterwards the men broke ranks and returned in their homes.