A tour through North America

Wealth and refinement of different parts—Writers on American Manners—Plainness—Civility—New England Character—Unfair dealing—Emigrant’s Situation and Character—Government—United States and Upper Canada.

The comparative wealth and refinement of the eastern parts of the United States, arises from the annual savings of the combined exertions of nature and industry having had time to accumulate and affect the inhabitants; and the gradual falling off in these attributes, which takes place towards the west, is owing to most of the settlers having originally been operatives in the east, and not having had time to accumulate wealth, or adopt refinements.

Although I did not often witness the domestic manners of the Americans, my opportunities of meeting the inhabitants of the United States in public were frequent, and the impressions imbibed during my intercourse with them were different from what the accounts of others led me to expect. Many travellers who have written on the subject were perhaps ill qualified to form a just estimate of American manners and character, from the sphere of society in which they themselves had previously moved. No scion nor associate of British aristocracy, who has not been brought into familiar intercourse with the middling and lower orders of his own countrymen, is likely to do justice to the Americans, and the tenor of many of the remarks which have been given to the world on the subject is evidence of the writers never having before associated with the class of people to whom they allude. The inhabitants of Britain, in private and public life, being divided into grades, some individuals are altogether unacquainted with the manners and customs of the classes below them. And as Englishmen of high pretensions and refinement, on reaching America, mingle on terms of equality at public tables and in conveyances with the commonest operatives, they feel disgusted with the manners of the people around them, without considering they belong to a different class from their own associates at home. In Britain, a person of rank is generally regarded with respect by the classes below him. In the United States, rank seldom meets with or expects deference from the people, and the humblest citizen familiarly enters into conversation with every individual who addresses him. This self-possession of the Americans is often mistaken for forwardness, and their unembarrassed conversation for insolence. In Britain, the different classes of population generally remain distinct, and many of their excesses are hid from common gaze. In most parts of the United States, the bar-rooms of hotels form the only scenes of tippling, and, being at all times open to the public, a traveller is apt to consider the people more dissipated than they really are. Were a gentlemanly foreigner to meet the lowest class of the people of England at table, and associate with them in their haunts of vice, his adventures would form a high-coloured picture of British manners and society.

The strictures of British writers on the manners of the people of the United States seem to have created a strong prejudice in the minds of emigrants of every description. In the month of May last, a person who had long followed the trade of a country wright in his native village, situated in East Lothian, introduced himself, and asked my opinion regarding the best place of settlement for himself and family in America. He had made up his mind to emigrate, and left me in the determination of residing in the United States. I have just learned, however, that he keeps a spirit store in the village of Niagara, Upper Canada, and assigned as a reason for leaving the States, that he could not endure the manners of the people. The conduct of this Scottish clown is a good satire on the remarks of such refined travellers as Trollope, Hamilton, &c.

On first reaching the United States, the plainness of the people’s manners appeared remarkable. In all classes there was a total absence of grimace and corporeal token of respect, with corresponding sounds of address, an expression of obligation or thankfulness seldom being heard. In courteousness the inhabitants appear as far behind the British as the French exceed them. But, on the other hand, vulgarity, rudeness, or insolence, is almost never met with in the humblest walks of life. Mechanics and storekeepers ride in the same vehicle, and sit down at the same table, with the most polished members of society; all seem desirous of behaving well to each other, a rude or indelicate remark never being made, nor a disgusting practice indulged in. On one occasion only I met with revolting behaviour, at the table of the Washington hotel, during my first residence at New York. On my second visit, I found the individual still an inmate of the house, in which he had lodged for fourteen years. He was an eccentric character, and originally from England.

A general propriety of deportment and softness of manner pervades the lower classes, and that coarseness, which is sometimes met with in Britain, does not appear to exist in the United States; but certain circles of society in Britain seem to have a higher polish than what is to be met with in America, and perhaps the general standard of manners of both countries is not widely different. The lower orders of the United States are, however, beyond all question, greatly superior in refinement and intelligence to the lower orders of Britain.

The many classes into which society is divided in Britain, and the privileges assigned them by the laws and customs of the country, are so distinct, that some individuals, who are jealous of their dignity, endeavour to repulse all beneath them. On the other hand, some people seek distinction by rudeness towards others. And amidst such jarring elements the poor sometimes become servile and debased, the rich contemptuous and overbearing. In America, every individual seems possessed of self-respect, and in the intercourse of life, arrogance is seldom assumed, and never submitted to. Worth is duly appreciated, and hollow pretension exposed.

The civility of all classes in the United States is so universal, that during my intercourse with the inhabitants, I scarcely experienced an indication of insolence, and never observed that democratic sauciness which I was taught to expect amongst the lower orders. Every individual feels that he is independent, and never alludes to the subject. The case is, however, different in Canada, where some British emigrants seldom let an opportunity escape of telling a well-dressed person, that “this is a free country, and that he does not care a * * * * for any man.” The emancipated bondsman alone boasts of being free from fetters. A foreigner, however, who arrogates to himself superiority in the States, will be despised by the meanest of the people, and his money will neither purchase their attention nor services. The United States which I visited, seem to me an excellent place for teaching an overweening person a due estimate of himself and his fellow-mortals. Twelve months’ intercourse with the people would greatly improve the fagged and fagging youthful aristocracy of Britain. Their haughtiness of demeanour, and acerbity and impatience of temper would be changed, and they would return home with a just sense of the place they occupy in the world, and qualified to discharge the important duties they owe society. Every Briton who has mingled with the people for any length of time, and practised self-examination, will testify to the truth of my remarks.

Whatever may be the state of manners and customs in the United States, the foppish need not desert Britain in search of happiness in the New World, for there such persons are lightly esteemed. The emigrant ought not to vex himself about having heard that people place their feet on tables, or on the mantel-piece, as nobody will interfere with the position of his on the floor, nor whether they chew tobacco or cheese, as he will be allowed to eat what he pleases. The necessaries of life are generally obtained without much difficulty, and whoever regards mankind as created by the same Being, of the same materials, for the same end, and entitled to the same privileges, need not despair of happiness if he leads a life of virtue and industry.

By far the greater portion of the people I came in contact with were natives of the New England States, who seem to have spread over a considerable portion of the States of New York and Illinois, and the territory of Michigan. The character of this people has often been drawn. They have many strong characteristics, and in nine cases out of ten may be recognised in walking into a public room, having an air of confidence and self-esteem above all other people. They form the true Yankees, and are obnoxious over the continent of North America, like the Yorkshiremen in England, and Aberdeenshiremen in Scotland, for their unremitting keenness and industry in business, which may have been engendered by the poverty of the soil, and badness of the climate of New England. They are descended from the first settlers who fled from religious persecution in England, and seem to inherit what may be supposed to have been the prominent dispositions of their forefathers. They faithfully observe all the external forms of decency, and their taciturn, phlegmatic, and calculating disposition, may render them objects of dislike. But their intelligence, self-esteem, enterprise, and perseverance fit them for a young country, and the growing prosperity of the northern section of the United States’ territory is in a considerable degree indebted to them.

The Yankees have been generally charged with unfair dealing, and although I had no opportunity of judging of this matter personally, many circumstances induce me to think the charge is to a certain extent well founded. To emigrants the morals of a people are of more consequence than their manners, between which, however, there is no connexion. The Irish are a more polite people than the Scotch, but greatly inferior in morality; and the Yankees, with all the outward forms of virtue, are considered the most dishonest race in the Union. Yankee knavery is said to consist in overreaching every one with whom they have dealings, if the character of their customer admits of their doing so with impunity. The charge of dishonesty is not applicable to the people of New England generally, and much of the prejudice against them arises from their industry and success in business. In course of conversation I never heard imposition of any kind alluded to in terms of approbation, while honesty of character, and more especially in public men, was invariably praised. Virtue will ever be respected in civilized society.

In new and extensive territories the restraints of dishonesty seem weaker, and the temptations to overreach stronger than in densely peopled old countries. In new countries, local attachments, family character, and many other feelings which influence conduct, are unfelt. Individuals seldom remain long in one place, and traffic with others similarly situated. The laws are imperfectly put in force, and successful fraud is sometimes considered clear gain, as the parties may never hold farther intercourse, and in the event of exposure, a change of residence obviates disgrace. Most of the people are poor, and grasp at wealth. There are few prejudices of birth or station in society, and no barrier in the field of enterprise or ambition to the lowest individual. The reverse of all this takes place in old countries, where other policy than honesty commonly entails ruin in worldly matters. In both situations the degree of moral principle may be the same. But in Britain all is not virtue which appears on the surface of society, and the fear of punishment, resulting from public opinion and effective laws, has perhaps more influence than the dictates of conscience in checking knavery. The intercourse of the people of Britain and certain parts of America, seems to arise more from the different circumstances in which they are placed than from religious and moral feeling.

If the view which I have taken of the commercial intercourse of new countries is correct, the emigrant will soon discover that the New Englanders are not the only sharpers in America. A gentleman settled in the township of Hinchinbrooke, Lower Canada, in writing to his friends in East Lothian, states, “although the inhabitants here are not Yankees, yet all act on the Yankee system.” And I shall renounce all pretensions to discernment if many of the inhabitants of Upper Canada are not the most accomplished Yankees on the other side of the Atlantic. The change which sometimes takes place in the habits and morals of people on reaching America is not confined to the modes of acquiring property. In some parts of Upper Canada the Sabbath was chiefly spent in shooting, and many Scotsmen did so who lived in the vicinity of a church. Every new settler is liable to be beset by all the knaves and cheats of the district on his first arrival. If he defeat their first attempt they seldom make a second, and he may afterwards transact business without much risk of being imposed on. Too much caution cannot, however, be exercised at first settlement, more especially towards old countrymen, who can make advances under more favourable circumstances than a native American, and are equally prone to take advantage.

The greedy and dishonest intercourse which takes place in many parts of North America must be repugnant to honourable feeling, and emigrants ought to guard against being led into the system. But however unpleasant such a state of society may be, the people of Britain need not shun the New World on such grounds. Your experience in life, my dear brother, has not been extensive, but from your knowledge of, and intercourse with, the people of East Lothian, you must be aware that amongst the peers of the realm, their law agents and factors, the tenantry and dealers in horses, cattle, and corn, there are individuals who lay aside morality when transacting business, and are alone guided by the letter of the laws. Their conversation is as little to be depended on as the passing wind, and their writings are sometimes worded with intent to deceive. In short, there are bad characters in every part of the world, and whoever is capable of transacting business with the Yankees of Britain need not be afraid to encounter those in America. I admit the degree of mercantile honour and morality may be higher in Britain than in America, and imposition less frequent, but contend there are cheats in both countries, and the same caution which is necessary to meet the plans of one knave in Britain will defeat the tricks of twenty in America.

The situation of an emigrant on reaching America must be very different from what it was at home. In the midst of a people whose manners and customs are in some measure new to him, he is an isolated being, without any one in whom he can confide for advice and assistance. If he cannot think for himself, and rely on his own resources in transacting business, he will be a helpless mortal, and in all probability become the prey of designing persons. It is the dependence of the inhabitants on each other in old countries which unfits so many of them to play their part in the newly settled portions of the United States, where each individual acts independently, and trusts to himself alone. Americans are, therefore, the most acute people in the world in the ordinary intercourse of life, and few foreigners need take up their abode in the country in hope of outstripping them. The most essential requisites in an emigrant are energy of mind, steadiness of purpose, and persevering industry. Without possessing these qualifications, no one need expect to mingle successfully in the bustle of life; although it is possible to exist as a farmer, without being so highly gifted. It is a wrong estimate of themselves which so often gives rise to disappointment and failure on the part of British emigrants. There is nothing in the soil or climate of America which can impart wisdom to the fool, energy to the imbecile, activity to the slothful, or determination to the irresolute. Examination of character should therefore form part of every emigrant’s preparation, as his fate will perhaps altogether depend on it. It is folly for the idle and imaginative beings who float in British society to seek an Elysium in the United States, from whence they will again be speedily wafted to their native country. It is the industrious, prudent, and frugal people alone that can calculate on success.

It has already been mentioned that the United States consist of twenty-four separate states, with a general government for defence, commerce, and taxation. Each state has a distinct republican government, for the regulation of its own affairs. The governments of the different states resemble each other, although not precisely alike, and consist of Legislative, Executive, and Judiciary. The mode of electing and the powers of each branch vary in some states, but in all of them the influence of the people is supreme.

With governments, as with almost every thing else, there is a difference of opinion, and many individuals may dislike the republican form and democratic tone which prevail in the states. In such a state of things it is, however, certain, that the interests of the many never can be sacrificed for the advantage of the few, and that the laws, taxation, and expenditure of the country must accord with the wishes of the people. Whatever creed emigrants may have adopted, they can live unmolested, without joining in the turmoil of American politics. The field of industry is open to their exertions, and its fruits may be enjoyed in peace and security.

Travellers cannot deny the unspeakable advantages that have accrued to the industry of the United States from the nature of their governments, and many of them, as if stung by envy, dilate on the instability of the Union, and by the consequent convulsion see a termination of the happiness and prosperity of the people. It is impossible to say what events may be in the womb of futurity; but there is no rational ground for supposing the dissolution of the Union by war is at hand. Almost all the domestic wars which have taken place amongst civilized men, have either resulted from ambitious chiefs leading deluded and enslaved followers against each other, or from resistance to tyranny. In the region of the United States, to which my remarks are applicable, tyranny in any shape can scarcely be said to exist; and should ambitious men take the field, where are they to obtain followers? But supposing war to happen, and that the democrats of America copiously shed each other’s blood, are the aristocrats and serviles of Europe exempt from such barbarism? The emigrant may calculate on peace from the love the people have for their government, the absence of aristocracy and abject poverty, and unfettered industry. Should he, however, shun the United States, from apprehension of intestine war, in what part of the world will he seek a retreat?

I alluded to the contrast between the United States and Upper Canada, as witnessed near the frontier on each side of the river Niagara. After having had an opportunity of seeing extensively both countries, I consider my first opinions, as expressed at pages 95–96, to be substantially correct, although other causes may have operated in producing the difference than the governments of the countries.

It may be perfectly true “the people, soil, and climate, were originally alike” on both sides of the Niagara, but the United States and Upper Canada cannot with propriety be contrasted by those spots alone. The inhabitants of the United States, generally speaking, may be said to have been born in the country, and consequently possessed of the peculiar feelings and qualities of a people suited to a young country. On the other hand, most of the inhabitants of Upper Canada are either the descendants of the Royalists, slothful and unenterprising from the neglect with which they have been treated, or emigrants from Britain, where many of them had acquired notions and habits ill adapted for settling a wood covered surface. Upper Canada having also become a place of refuge for the outcasts of other countries, and many of the settlers being composed of the poorest of the Irish and Scotch Highlanders, two of the most indolent and unambitious portions of civilized society, there can be no question of the people of the United States being more industrious and energetic than the inhabitants of Upper Canada. The United States sooner became peopled than Upper Canada, and may, consequently, be said to be an older country. The climate of the States is generally also better than Upper Canada. If the view which I have taken of the source of riches be correct, the United States, being an older country, with a better climate, and a more industrious population than Upper Canada, should also be wealthier. It will accordingly be found that in all external appearances, such as villages, houses in the country, hotels, internal intercourse and trade, and the dress of the people, Upper Canada is about a century behind the United States.

The governments of the several States and Upper Canada are alike in form, consisting of a governor and two deliberative assemblies. In the States persons invested with power are chosen by the people. In Upper Canada the governor, the members of the highest assembly, and of the judiciary, are appointed by the King of Great Britain. The States may be said to have passed the youth of government and attained vigorous manhood. The government of Upper Canada is still in the helplessness of infancy, and cannot, in the nature of things, continue permanent in its present state. Many people give a preference to Upper Canada because it is under the British government; but when emigrants reflect on the nature of the two governments, let them ask themselves what the British government has done for them at home? What they expect from it in America? And how long Upper Canada is likely to remain subject to Britain?

Each of the United States forms an integral part of a large confederacy, and the advantages which the population derive from an extensive and unfettered commercial intercourse are great. Upper Canada is insulated. The river St Lawrence forms its only channel of trade, and already disputes have arisen with the Lower province about the imposts collected on foreign commodities. In the event of the Union of the States being dissolved, the interests and feelings of the population would, in all probability, lead to the formation of smaller unions, without disturbing the governments of the separate states. When Upper Canada breaks, or is thrown off from Britain, what will be her situation? While the French interest remains strong in Lower Canada a union of the two provinces will not take place, and all intercourse with foreign nations would be at an end. The inhabitants of the Upper province, in such a state of things, would be reduced to the necessity of subduing the Lower Canadians by force of arms, or begging of the United States to be admitted into the Union.

In the United States the expenses of the federal government are impartially levied throughout the Union, and the burdens of the government of each State are paid by its own inhabitants. In every State cheap justice and free education are provided for the people; and taxation is lighter, compared with the advantages enjoyed, than amongst any other independent people in the world. In Upper Canada a part of the expenses of the country is paid by the people of Great Britain and Ireland, who also bear the expense of defending the province. Free education is not provided for the inhabitants. Taxation is at present almost unfelt, which is owing to the British government. The people of Britain are not, however, likely to be long burdened with the expenses of the province, and when the inhabitants meet the expense of governing themselves, taxation in Upper Canada will be augmented.

The manners and customs of the people, as witnessed in public, are the same in both countries. In all things there is much less refinement in Upper Canada, and the manners of the people are coarse contrasted with those in the States. Morals seem to correspond with the manners. It was, however, the unfortunate emigrants from Britain and Ireland who imparted such a character to the population. Many individuals seemed to me conscious of self-debasement, and to have left home for the purpose of indulging their vicious propensities without encountering the scorn and censure of their friends and relations. Should it be thought that I have judged harshly of some of my countrymen, let it be remembered I speak only of what was observed in public, and that the bar-rooms of Upper Canada exhibited the worst part of British society without a redeeming feature. The domestic manners and morals of the people of either country did not come properly within the scope of my observation. I may, however, remark, that I was favourably impressed with the manners of the royalist inhabitants of Canada, and it would be ungrateful on my part not to acknowledge the uniform civility and kindness which I experienced in private from every class of settlers.

In the United States the machinery of government is controlled by the people, who do every thing for the welfare of the country, and political power is invested in worth and talent alone. In Upper Canada government is swayed by an aristocracy, who have never lost sight of their own interest in legislating for the country. A higher and more uniform tone of independence and self-respect pervades the inhabitants in the United States than in Canada. The emigrant who delights in lording over his fellow-mortals, and measures his importance and wealth by the servility and wretchedness of others around him, ought to shun the States. The emigrant who seeks a fair and favourable field for his industry, and aspires to share, in common with his brethren, the just rank and privileges of man, ought to shun Upper Canada.

The United States are rapidly progressing, and their future prosperity seems illimitable. I ascertained there were eighteen large steam-boats belonging to the States on lake Erie in 1833, and a gentleman, who was there in 1834, assured me they had increased to twenty-four. By the official report of the Postmaster-General to the President of the United States, the annual transportation of the mail was, in 1829, 13,700,000 miles, and in 1832, 23,625,021 miles. There is not one-tenth of the surface yet devoted to the production of human food. The coal-fields of the west are perhaps inexhaustible, the water communication is almost without limits, and the extent of canals and railroads already exceed that of any other nation. The country is great even in its infancy. If its territory, consisting of 1,328,902,400 acres, were peopled to the same degree as England, containing a great deal of land which cannot be cultivated, the inhabitants would amount to 537,872,383, while the present population is about 14,000,000. A vast extent of the best soil, situated in the finest climate, is still unoccupied, and if the views regarding the assistance nature affords the farmer, and his reward affecting wages of other labour, which I have already laid down, be correct, industry cannot fail of meeting with a rich reward for many centuries yet to come.

The internal and external state of the country is free from molestation, and the principles of education and good government are so firmly established, and applicable to every condition that may arise, that nothing is likely to check the prosperity of the United States but fancied opposition of interests resulting from extent of territory. A state of things will soon appear, however, to hold the Union together in spite of opposing interests. Between 37 and 45 degrees of north latitude, and beyond 5 degrees of west longitude from Washington, lies the most favoured region of North America. By inspecting a map it will be seen this district is intersected in all directions by navigable rivers and other channels of commerce. The great outlet of the region is by the Mississippi to New Orleans. The river Ohio communicates with Philadelphia and Baltimore by canals and railroads, and by canals and lake Erie with New York. The rivers Wabash, Illinois, Mississippi, and Missouri, will also, in progress of time, communicate with New York by the Erie canal or other means. For reasons which will be afterwards stated, population must soon accumulate in this district, which possesses almost every thing within itself which can add to the wealth and greatness of a country. The chief power of the States will centre here, and the interests of the inhabitants being interwoven with the mentioned seaports, they will insist on an observance of the Union, whatever may be the views of the northern and southern states.

The inhabitants of the States speak the same language as the English, which may be called the language of commerce. They are made acquainted with the improvements and discoveries of Britain a few months after they become known, and from the freedom of institutions, and energy of the people, greater effect can sometimes be given to them. On a general view of all the circumstances affecting the character and situation of the country and the people, it is scarcely possible to imagine a region promising such unchecked prosperity and future greatness.

Upper Canada has made unparalleled advancement of late years, which is not likely to continue at the present rate, as the causes of prosperity have been altogether artificial. A great number of gallant men, after meritoriously serving Britain in war, were placed on the half-pay list, in prime of life. Seeing no prospect of employment or farther advancement in the profession of arms, many of them retired to Upper Canada, in hope of providing for their families, where they were assigned a grant of land. This class of emigrants cannot, however, be much augmented, and the chief source of value to the country of those already settled—their annuities—will terminate with their lives. Of late years, immense sums have been lavished unproductively by the British Government on canals and other works, and in paying public services, which cannot be continued in the existing state of things. A third source of advancement has been the tens of thousands of individuals lured into the country from Britain by devices which will soon lose their influence, in consequence of a rival to the Canada Company having appeared in Lower Canada, under the title of the American Land Company. Many of the shareholders reside in Quebec and Montreal, who will employ their influence to prevent strangers proceeding to the Upper province. From these causes, which are temporary, and others formerly stated, there is little reason to expect a continuance of the recent progression in Upper Canada. The country has, however, great advantages in water communication, which, in progress of time, will become useful to trade. There is still much unoccupied land, a great part of which, however, lies in an unfavourable climate. From this circumstance, the monopoly of land, and its consequent high price, the reward of industry and wages of labour are more likely to diminish than increase.

The position of Upper Canada in its external relations, which has been stated at page 413, must be considered unfavourable, and in the internal condition of the country there is much which is unsatisfactory. The province is an appendage to Britain, and seems to have aped many of the frailties of the mother country. The principle of government has been patronage; the rule of governing, enriching the few and despising the many. Hence abuses in extensive grants of land, pensions, superfluous offices, an aristocracy, and such an aristocracy! a rapacious church, and the neglect of education. The institutions of Britain are a century behind the intelligence of her inhabitants. Upper Canada is generations behind North America in legislation. I have already said the government of the province is in helpless infancy, and add, it must pass through the slippery paths of youth before attaining strength. There is already discord amongst the inhabitants, who are assailing the oligarchy under a sturdy, though not comprehensive minded, leader. The strife is likely to be tedious, and without bloodshed; the poverty of the country and character of the people being a sufficient guarantee against aggression or envy on the part of the United States, and the scattered condition of the settlers a protection against themselves.

The policy of the movement party ought to be, to seek the aid of the mother country, and steadily but cautiously proceed with measures calculated to cripple the aristocracy, the dominant church, and the Canada Company. These changes can only be lastingly and beneficially effected by extending the elective franchise, and providing free education for the inhabitants. The ultimate policy of Upper Canada is to court a union with the United States, which would open channels of trade by way of New Orleans and New York.

On a general view of the circumstances affecting the country and people of Upper Canada, much time will be required to develope the resources of the country; and a period of excitement is likely to intervene before a permanent government can be established.

Every thing in the United States seems to me to be resting on a natural and sure foundation, with prospect of continued prosperity. In Upper Canada, most things appear to be on an artificial footing, and must consequently experience change. The States present a wider and a better field for the exercise of industry than Upper Canada; and the British emigrant, who must live by his own exertions, makes a sacrifice of his immediate interests, and in all probability the interests of his posterity, by preferring Upper Canada to the United States as a place of settlement.

Many people may prefer Canada to the States, from having friends already settled there. Such a reason is not creditable to their friends in Britain, whom they leave behind. The person who makes up his mind to leave the place of his nativity, ought to employ his industry and capital in the best field, and endeavour to bring his friends who may have settled less fortunately to him.

Illinois—Climate—Face of the country—Prairies—Soil—Salt—Lead—Iron—Coal—Water Communication—History—Towns—Government—Education—Kentucky Population—New Englanders—Pioneers—Manners and Customs.

Some of the western United States, forming part of the extensive and fertile valley of the Mississippi, are so different in character from the Eastern States and the Canadas for agricultural emigration, as to merit particular consideration. The region alluded to lies north of latitude 38°, and from 7° of west longitude from Washington to the rocky mountains. Much of this tract is imperfectly known, having never perhaps been trod by civilized man, and embraces the states of Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and the Michigan, North-west, and Missouri territories. My personal observation extended to a portion of four of the mentioned divisions, which enabled me to form an opinion of their characteristics, which are said to be pretty uniform; and for the sake of precision Illinois shall be noticed.

The State of Illinois extends from north latitude 37° to 42½°, and from west longitude 10° 35′ to 14° 25′. It is bounded on the south by the river Ohio, on the west by the Mississippi, on the north by the north-west territory, and on the east by lake Michigan and Indiana. The length is 382 miles, the area 57,900 square miles, or 37,056,000 acres, which is nearly the size of England and Wales.

The climate of Illinois partakes of the general character of North America, but from the absence of hills, and small elevation above the level of the sea, this region is milder than any other of the same latitude, The winter in the southern parts seldom exceeds six weeks. At Shawneetown, which is in the southern part of the State, the average temperature of July, in 1819, was 87°, of December 43°, and the mean annual temperature 64°. At Prairies des Chiens, which is a few miles beyond the northern boundary of the State, the temperature in July 1820 was 74°, in December 16°, and the average of the year 48° 5ʹ.^[6]

The diseases in Illinois are such as are common to the upper Mississippi valley, amongst which intermitting and remitting bilious fevers often occur. From the variations of temperature, inflammatory complaints and diseases of the lungs are frequent in this and almost every other part of North America. I met several young men, suffering under consumption, travelling in the steam-boats of the west, although this malady is much more frequent in the eastern states. By an official report of the deaths in the city of New York, from 24th November to 1st December, 1832, in a newspaper lying before me, 14 cases of consumption, out of a total of 92, are recorded, which is the highest number of any disease on the list; and the same paper states 5 of consumption, out of 62, at Philadelphia, which occurred during the previous week. Fever, dyspepsia, and consumption, are the maladies of Illinois, the two first being most common in the south, and the latter in the north. The health of an emigrant may, in some measure, be preserved by care. Exposure to sudden changes of temperature without proper clothing, and uncomfortable houses in inclement weather, seldom fail of engendering disease.

The mouth of the Ohio, in the south-west angle of the state, being about 300 feet above the level of the sea, and lake Michigan, in the north-east angle, being 589 feet, while there is no range of hills or elevated ground intervening, the surface of the country must necessarily be level, which is more particularly the case towards the southern part of the state. The rivers, which intersect the country in every direction, have formed deep channels for the conveyance of water, and no great extent of the surface is marshy. The space which I travelled over on foot, between Chicago, on lake Michigan, and the village of Springfield in Sangamon county, a distance of about 200 miles, the surface, with exception of a few miles at the commencement and termination of the journey, was undulating, the swells being long and considerable, without a lake, pond, or marsh being visible, except in one instance. On approaching Springfield, the surface became level without being wet, and from this village until I crossed the Mississippi the wettest parts of the surface might have been rendered dry by the ordinary means of ditching.

The feature in the surface of Illinois, which chiefly distinguishes it from the eastern states and the Canadas, is the prairies, or tracts which are free from timber. I imagine prairies to be natural productions; they may be termed grass fields, and are of every size and shape, being separated from each other by tracts of forest. Americans, whose ideas of an uninhabited country are associated with interminable forests, have speculated on the origin of prairies, which they regard as an anomaly in nature, and assign their existence to man. A Scotchman, accustomed to the bleak naked mountains, and artificial forests of his own country, may take an opposite view of a prairie, and support his opinion by the state of the earth’s surface after the flood, which would be without trees. But the forest and prairie surfaces of Illinois stand in the relation of water and land on the face of the earth, both being the handiwork of nature, and forming bays, peninsulas, straits, isthmuses, lakes, islands, and every other form of outline which charm the eye and delight the imagination. To the individual who has long been immured in the forest, the effect of prairie scenery is enchanting; and the inhabitant of a cultivated and thickly peopled country, who can gaze on the lovely, the lonely, and the rich prairies of Illinois without emotion towards God and his fellow-creatures must be void of feeling.

The different published accounts of Illinois represent one-half of the surface of the state to be prairie, but it is probable none of the writers, or any one individual, has had a proper opportunity of forming an opinion on the subject. In the course of my journey, nineteen-twentieths of the country appeared to be prairie; but the forest tract is chiefly in the south, which I did not visit. It is however certain a vast extent of prairie lies north of latitude 39°. An English traveller informed me he found the prairie country unchanged 500 miles to the west of Illinois. And if such is the case, its breadth in latitude 40° will exceed 1000 miles.

There is a considerable extent of the surface thinly covered with trees, interspersed with the same kind of herbage as clothes the prairies, called barrens, or oak-openings, from the wood which grows on them. They may either be considered thin forest, or wooded prairie, as they partake of the nature of both; but in an agricultural point of view, they must be classed as prairie, from the herbage they afford. The soil of Illinois, like many other parts of the world which has come under my notice, is variable, and the different habitations of the varieties of sunflower and other tall-growing plants, often distinctly marked changes of soil on the prairie. The prevailing soil between Chicago and Springfield, was black sandy loam, and occasionally considerable tracts of clay or heavy loam intervened. In this distance of nearly 200 miles, I did not pass over, in all, 10 miles of bad soil, which was light coloured sand. The surface, which is forest, oak-openings, or prairie, has no relation to quality of soil, all of which abound with soils of every description.

On no part of the prairie did I observe heath, or other thriftless vegetation, occupying the entire surface, with exception of a dwarfish species of hazel, in a few instances, to a limited extent. Besides the many beautiful flowering plants which adorn the prairies, they are covered with four or five tall-growing kinds of grass, and the moist and dry soils could be distinguished by the luxuriance of different species. From the grass attaining between three and four feet in height, and being seared by a powerful sun, the surface of the prairies is scorched by fire every autumn, originating by human, and, it is presumed, also occasionally by natural means. The annual burning seems to have destroyed all the grasses which possess fibrous roots, and are propagated by seed; those which at present exist having strong roots, which resist the effects of fire, and propagate themselves without seed. This property of the grasses is illustrative of the economy of nature, by furnishing plants for every situation and circumstance that may arise. The burning is not attended with much danger, as the turning of one or two sods by the plough is deemed a sufficient protection against fire for a hay stack in the midst of the prairie; and the inhabitants either save their buildings by this means, or by burning the grass immediately around them, before the general conflagration takes place. The burning, in all probability, is conducive to health, by consuming vegetation, which would otherwise putrify on the surface, and by checking the luxuriance of its growth, which the unconsumed matter would produce by natural decay. There is a ruling Providence in every thing!

The mineral productions of the state have been imperfectly explored. Salt is manufactured in many situations. Near Shawneetown is the most extensive establishment, where about 138,000 bushels are made yearly. Salt is also made in the neighbourhood of Brownsville, in Madison county, and in other parts. The saline reservations given to the state, by the general government, consist of 206,128 acres. One of the most remarkable gifts which bountiful nature has lavished on the valley of the Mississippi, appears to me to be the inexhaustible supply of salt water. The government of the country seem fully to appreciate the gift, and have wisely made the springs public property, by which the community will obtain the indispensable article of salt at the cheapest rate.

Lead abounds in the north-east angle of the state, in the neighbourhood of Galena. The mineral is found on both sides of the Mississippi, and supposed to extend over several thousand square miles. The ore is found in detached masses, and not in veins, which renders the digging a matter of chance. The quantity of lead manufactured here, in 1829, was 13,343,150 lbs.; and the population of the region is stated at 10,000.^[7] There are also lead diggings in the State of Missouri, about 70 miles south-west of St Louis, and which were wrought by the French about a century ago. The price of lead, at Galena, is from 2 to 3 cents per lb. When at Springfield, I met a young gentleman from Leith, in Scotland, who had travelled by way of New York, the Erie canal, and lake Michigan, provided with a considerable quantity of shot, which he imagined the country could not furnish.

Iron ore is said to exist in the southern part of the state; and copper ore in the lead region around Galena. But I believe neither of them have been manufactured.

Coal, of bituminous quality, has been found on the banks of the principal rivers, in different parts of the state, and, from having been seen on the banks of the river Missouri, it is supposed to extend over the whole of the upper part of the Mississippi valley. But, in the present state of the country, no particular examination of the field has been made. Coal has, however, been wrought in many places on the banks of rivers by quarrying; and is found above the level of the waters. Several steam-mills, at St Louis, use coal for fuel.

Iron is manufactured in Wabash county, and limestone is found over the whole State. I observed abundance of sandstone in the channel of the Illinois; and perhaps almost every mineral which is useful to man will be found on examination.

Illinois is favourably situated for water communication, the interior of the state being intersected by the Kaskaskia, Rock, and Illinois rivers, which are navigable at all seasons of the year. The State is said to contain between three and four thousand miles of boatable waters, a description of navigation which cannot be well defined, as every rill, in so level a country, will float a boat of small size, on melting of the snow in spring. There is no doubt, however, of the water communication being extensive, which will be farther improved by connecting the navigable point of the Illinois with lake Michigan. To the formation of a canal for this purpose, Congress granted the State 480,000 acres of land. The undertaking has not been commenced; and the extent of rock discovered in the intended line, may render a railroad necessary. The navigable rivers Wabash, Ohio, and Mississippi form the boundaries of three sides, and lake Michigan is on the fourth. The external communication is as remarkable as the internal.

The Mississippi connects the State of Illinois with New Orleans to the south; the Ohio opens a communication with Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York to the west. To the north, lake Michigan communicates with lake Superior and the world of waters which flow into the gulf of St Lawrence. The western communication, by the Missouri, is only limited by civilisation, a steam-boat belonging to the American Fur Company having sailed 1400 miles up the river, from its junction with the Mississippi. So little is known about the western sources of the Missouri, that the limits of navigation, in this direction, must at present be conjectural; and it does not seem to require a stretch of imagination to conceive, as population advances, a communication opened between the head waters of this river and the Pacific ocean. Should such an event take place, the empires of China, Japan, and Russia will be brought near, and Illinois become one of the most central and favourable trading situations in the world.

Illinois was originally discovered by the French, who penetrated by way of Canada, in 1673. They founded the villages of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and others in 1683. When the country became part of the United States, it formed part of the territory north-west of the Ohio. In 1801, it was included with Indiana as a territory. In 1809, it was made a separate territory. And became one of the United States in 1818.

In so recent a settled country, large towns cannot be expected to be found. Vandalia is the capital, and, like other capitals, situated near the centre of the state. It stands on the western bank of the Kaskaskia, and was founded in 1821. The population is stated at 500 souls.

Shawneetown on the Ohio, about nine miles below the mouth of the Wabash, is the largest town in the State. A number of thriving villages are rising in every direction, and will acquire population according to their situations for trade. Galena, situated on Fever river, a few miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and in the north-west corner of the State, will rise into importance, from the manufacture of lead in the neighbourhood. One hundred steam-boat arrivals at this place are said to have occurred within the year. Chicago on lake Michigan, and Ottawa on the Illinois, from being situated at the termination of the communication connecting these waters, will become important places. Alton, situated on the Mississippi, one mile above the mouth of the Missouri, and sixteen below the entrance of the Illinois, is centrically situated for trade, and is soon likely to become the chief shipping port of the State.

The legislature of Illinois is vested in a General Assembly, consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives. The members of Senate are elected for four years, and the representatives for two years. The pay of the members of each branch of the legislature is $3 a-day. The right of suffrage is vested in all free whites twenty-one years of age, and who have resided six months in the State. The votes are given viva voce.^[8]