A tour through North America

CHAPTER I.

Journey to Liverpool—Lady and Child—Dine at Lancaster—Impostors at Manchester—Railway—Lateness of the season—Desecration of the Sabbath—Agricultural Details—Napoleon packet-ship—Cemetery—Mr Huskisson.

I left Mungoswells on the 20th of April, 1833, and proceeded from Haddington to Edinburgh by the Earl Grey stage-coach, drawn by a pair of thoroughbred bays, in charge of Quinten Campbell, a most excellent driver, who landed us at the end of the journey, a distance of seventeen miles, in less than an hour and a half, without an application of the whip.

After spending a few hours in Edinburgh, two friends, who intended accompanying me on a transatlantic tour, and myself, were seated in a Manchester coach, and we arrived at Carlisle about five in the morning of the following day.

During a few minutes’ delay which occurred in changing coaches at Carlisle, a waiter at the inn asked us to partake of breakfast; and resented our declining to do so, by saucily refusing to exchange small silver-money for a half-crown piece. My friend and I here agreed to take an outside place alternately, to accommodate a lady and child with an inside one. In course of the day I learned from the lady that she was booked as a passenger from Dumfries to London, and had, to her regret, been detained a whole day at Carlisle. It was evident that this unprotected female and her innocent charge had been imposed upon, and her escape from a second day’s detention was entirely owing to the little concession of my friend and self in her favour.

Breakfast was served at Penrith, and the party complained loudly of the fare placed before them. The stage passengers were joined by other travellers at Lancaster, where eighteen in number dined together, carving for themselves, and several partaking of hot punch, in the space of twenty minutes, which was the whole delay at Lancaster.

We reached Manchester a little after nightfall, where we spent the evening; and one of my friends not having sufficient change to settle with the guard and driver of the coach, he soon afterwards paid them in the coffeeroom. Next morning two different individuals presented themselves, as deputed by guard and driver to receive their allowance. My friend good-humouredly rallied the impostors on the hopelessness of their attempt, and they seemed to feel the force of his satire more than they perhaps would have done a scolding. I have noticed the treatment of the lady and child at Carlisle, as well as the impostors at Manchester, in consequence of a lecture from a fellow-passenger on Yankee knavery, and a well-meant advice to guard myself against American duplicity. Without meaning to impeach the character of my fellow-countrymen, I may remark that the natives of Britain need not illustrate moral delinquency by examples from other countries. Mankind seem to be, nationally as individually, sensible of the faults of others, although, at the same time, they are blind to their own.

We travelled from Manchester to Liverpool by the railway, on the morning of the 22d, and accomplished a distance of thirty miles in an hour and a half. Several miles were performed in two minutes, according to my stop-watch. At the request of a friend, I occupied a place on the outside of a way coach, and was much annoyed by the current of air and coke from the engine. My eyes did not recover the effects of the coke for forty-eight hours afterwards.

On the east coast of Scotland the season had proved to be one of the wettest and latest on record. At the time of our departure the vegetable kingdom had scarcely responded to the vivifying influence of spring—the buds of the hawthorn and the larch were expanding only in sheltered places. England did not present a more advanced vegetation. We were fortunate, however, in obtaining the first good weather of the season for our journey; and, notwithstanding the bleakness of nature, the ever varying scene afforded many objects fitted for contemplation. We crossed the line separating England from Scotland early on Sunday morning, and for many miles afterwards the roads were covered with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, travelling towards the south. This was a novel sight to a Scotsman; such practices on Sabbath being prohibited by the laws of his country. The desecration of the Lord’s day may, perhaps, to a certain extent, be traced in the customs of every Christian country, but in no case whatever ought appearances to be regarded as the measure of religious feeling, the seat of which is hid from human eye. Without assigning to my countrymen purity and intensity of religious emotion, I may be permitted to say, a Scottish Sabbath is marked throughout by a still, quiet, external decorum, seldom met with in other parts of the world, which fosters piety, and checks an open display of profanity. I trust her inhabitants will ever respect and preserve its solemnity of character.

The land from Carlisle to Manchester seemed, generally, poor and indifferently cultivated. The enclosures are small in size, often surrounded by irregular fences, formed and maintained at a sacrifice of soil and labour. Many of the grass fields were studded with lean young horses and cattle, industriously seeking a repast which nature still sparingly supplied. Betwixt Manchester and Liverpool, much of the grass lands had been ploughed with a furrow slice, only two and three inches in depth. Three stout horses yoked in line, the first of which was led by a boy, were seen dragging a small harrow, kept on a narrow convex ridge, by means of a man with a rope operating like a rudder, and he was apparently the only severely worked animal engaged in the operation. The agriculturists of Britain being deemed enlightened, and her soil not producing a sufficient quantity of food for the population, it was painful to witness land so mismanaged and labour so misapplied. This anomaly may, perhaps, be accounted for, by the genius of the inhabitants of this district having long been successfully applied to manufactures; and neither soil nor climate being congenial to agriculture; together with entails, tythes, and corn laws, checking the devotion of skill and capital to cultivation. Chatmoss, through which the railway passes, seems, however, an exception, and I regretted time did not permit an examination of the interesting management it is under, with which I had become acquainted by means of periodicals devoted to rural affairs.

On reaching Liverpool, our first proceeding was to search for a conveyance to New York, which we obtained in the Napoleon packet-ship; the commander, Captain Smith, resigning his cabin to my friend and me, the other berths in the ship having been previously engaged, with exception of one which was required for our companion.

Part of the 22d, 23d, and 24th, was spent in viewing the attractions of Liverpool, the chief of which, in my estimation, is the cemetery. This repository of mouldering humanity has been recently formed, and its numerous beauties have not been matured or mellowed by time. Trees, shrubs, and flowers, were diminutive, and generally in their winter garb, which fully displayed the memorials to the gaze of visitants. The cenotaph to Mr Huskisson stands near the centre, and can seldom fail of fixing for a time the attention, and exciting the sympathies of his countrymen. The world is now enjoying the green fruits of his genius, with prospect of increasing and lasting supply, while the laurels of contemporary warriors are barren and fading. So long as the principles of free trade are cherished and acted on, the memory of Huskisson will endure.

Voyage from Liverpool to New York—Sea-sickness—Crew—Passengers—Details—Approach to New York—Washington Hotel.

At noon, on the 24th April, the Napoleon got under weigh, and was towed down the Mersey by a steamer, in consequence of an adverse wind. In little more than an hour from the time of sailing, I became sea-sick, which afflicted me severely for nearly thirty days, and frustrated the little plans of recreation and amusement which I had formed on shore. Although appearing only once or twice at table, the attention of friends, and the situation of my berth, enabled me to know much that was passing on board. I shall not, however, chronicle many events which took place during the voyage, which some of my shipmates will readily pardon.

The establishment of the Napoleon consisted of about thirty, embracing men of every country and of every clime. There were eighty passengers in the steerage, and thirty in the cabin, eight of whom were ladies. England and Scotland furnished each five gentlemen, cabin passengers; Ireland, two; and the United States of America, three, one of whom had been naturalized from Ireland. All the individuals from England and Ireland, one from Scotland, and two from America, smoked. In some cases, the use of tobacco was immoderate, one gentleman smoking a hundred and fifty segars in fourteen days; the saliva in many parts of the vessel was copious and disgusting. Some of the passengers seemed to spend much of their time in sensual gratification, there being little reading or card-playing indulged in. Breakfast was served at eight o’clock, luncheon at twelve, dinner at four, and tea at eight. The first dinner course occupied about an hour, the second fifteen minutes, and dessert about the same length of time. The cabin, in some respects, resembled a British inn, the passengers dressing as they chose, and at all times calling for what they wished, champagne, seemingly, being the only wine restricted, and which was presented at dinner twice a-week. To those not of fastidious taste, the Napoleon offered a fit opportunity for indulgence, the table being copiously stored with substantial food and a variety of liquids. The noise of calling the steward, and drawing of corks, succeeded each other at short intervals throughout the day, and generally formed my morning and evening salutations. The quantity of good things which some individuals stowed under their belts, appeared excessive. Man is apt to despise what he cannot enjoy, and sensual indulgence never appeared to me so unworthy of regard. Champagne, sparkling in the wine-cup, did not afford a thousandth part of the pleasure I had often derived from the dewdrops glancing in the morning sunbeam, and when presented to my fevered lips by a most friendly hand, I envied my pretty Ayrshire cow, Salina, the privilege of quaffing the cool and limpid fount at Mungoswells.

On 20th May, 40° 30ʹ north latitude, 53° west longitude, and 950 miles from New York, Mrs ——, a cabin passenger, gave birth to a female child. In compliment to the ship, this little nymph of the sea was to be christened Josephine! a name memorable for conjugal affection, and the poor return such a virtue will sometimes receive.

Our commander, Captain Smith, was an American by birth, and part owner of the vessel. He was indefatigable as a seaman, spending successive nights on deck, and seldom concluding a meal without satisfying himself, by ocular demonstration, that all was right aloft. To the passengers he was attentive; and, considering the situation in which they occasionally placed him, also forbearing. Individually, I found him courteous and gentlemanly in a high degree.

The wind continued adverse for the first twenty-five days; and sometimes blew tempestuously. The weather moderated for the last eight days of the voyage, and the bar at New York was made on the morning of the 29th May, which a dense fog prevented us crossing without a pilot. The vessel stood off and on during the day, and towards noon, six gentlemen, accompanied by the letter-bag, set out in a fishing-boat for New York, where they landed in safety a few hours afterwards. The fog increasing as the day advanced, deprived the passengers of the hope of reaching shore until next day, and all their stock of patience was required to withstand the disappointment.

Next morning I was early on deck. The fog of the preceding day had disappeared in course of the night, and the sun shone brilliant in a sky of cloudless blue. A bracing and favourable breeze filled our canvass, and hastened on their voyage a thousand vessels around us, which had been detained by the previous unfavourable weather. Land was seen on both sides of the channel, but too distant to render objects on its surface distinctly visible. At a quarter before eight, a pilot stept on board, under whose guidance the Napoleon proceeded merrily on her way.

Under the combination of advantages we now enjoyed, our detention on the previous day seemed a fortunate occurrence, without which we should have been landed at New York, insensible of the beauties of its approach.

Having been nurtured in the country, and by profession and taste brought into fellowship with the vegetable kingdom, I anticipated much pleasure on my first introduction to America. This feeling led me on deck early in the morning, and, with telescope in hand, I watched with anxiety our approach to the shore. My situation was like that of a famishing person with food in view, intense desire without gratification, and brought to feel enjoyment by gradual participation. At first the country appeared a mass of uniform vegetation; by and by, the green broke into different shades, forest could be distinguished from cultivated field, kinds of trees and crops became visible, but I strained my eyeballs almost to blindness without being able to mark the minute characteristics of individuals. The general effect imparted delight, which was heightened, perhaps, by my having left home at the termination of a tedious winter, and crossed a wide waste of waters; the green mantle of nature never appeared to me so rich and fascinating.

The general aspect of the scenery, on approaching New York, is beautiful; consisting of hill, wood, water, island, town, villa, and hamlet, in every combination which can impart pleasure. But blue mountains, so prominent in the landscapes of Scotland, and so dear to her children, are altogether wanting, and the eye searches in vain for an object of sublimity.

An inspecting surgeon came on board at the quarantine station, who examined the passengers and crew. On coming to anchor in the river, near the wharf, a customhouse officer sealed up the luggage in the berths, and the cabin passengers were landed by means of a steam-boat.

On reaching shore, we learned there was a scarcity of lodgings at this season of the year, when the inhabitants of the Southern States travel northwards in quest of health. Our charioteer, after two unsuccessful attempts to find accommodation, landed us at the Washington Hotel, kept by Mr Ward, who kindly supplied us with every thing we could desire.

Theatre—Trollopes—Mrs Trollope’s Work—Customhouse Officer—Race-course— Westhouses Breeding Stud—Thunderstorm—Return to the Hotel—Excursion to Long Island—New town—Flushing—Agriculture in the neighbourhood of New York.

Miss Fanny Kemble taking her benefit on the night of our arrival, it was determined that we should visit the Park theatre. We found the house well attended, the ladies greatly outnumbering the gentlemen in the boxes, while the pit contained males only, apparently belonging to what is known in England by the operative classes, amongst whom people of colour were seen. Having peeped into Mrs Trollope’s work on the Domestic Manners of the Americans, and its illustrations of those witnessed at the Cincinnati theatre recurring to memory, I watched the behaviour of the audience.

At the end of the second act, I observed a gentleman in the second tier of boxes in an indelicate posture in front of the box. Three were similarly situated, at the end of the third act, when several voices in the pit called out, “A Trollope, a Trollope,” and a general hissing and hooting from the same quarter had the effect of inducing the offenders speedily to withdraw.

This incident at the theatre, amusing in itself, afforded me pleasure, by exhibiting the operatives in the pit enforcing chaste manners on those considering themselves higher in the scale of humanity; and proving that Mrs Trollope’s remarks had not been altogether lost on the Americans.

The clever, and to some people, amusing work of Mrs Trollope, will have different effects from what its admirers in Britain contemplate. The many sketches of low and incidental character which the book contains, and given as belonging to the people generally, wounded the feelings of the inhabitants of the United States; and by drawing attention to bad practices, led to the improvement of the people reviled. From much I saw and heard, the keen satire of this authoress is likely to produce, in a few years, the usual improvement of a century. On the other hand, her caricatures of manners and institutions fostered the prejudices of many of the inhabitants of Britain, and engendered dislike to political changes taking place in that country, more likely to be accelerated than retarded by intemperate opposition. When indelicacy flows from the pen of a female, though veiled by effusions of poetic fancy and garnished by wit, it is highly dangerous to youthful innocence, and the popularity of Mrs Trollope’s work may be regarded as evidence of want of discernment, if not of vitiated religious and moral feeling, in a portion of the reading population of Britain.

The piece of the evening was “The Wonder,” in which Miss Kemble did not appear to advantage. Having formerly seen her at Edinburgh in the play of the “Hunchback,” the contrast on the present occasion was painful. Whether my disappointment arose from the difference of character she represented, or a change of feeling on my part, cannot be determined, but I left the house long before the conclusion of the piece, for want of interest.

Next morning we applied at the customhouse for our luggage, and, on paying a trifle, obtained a permit for its inspection. The officer on board performed his duty in the most gentlemanlike manner; and in less than five minutes from the time of going on board, our luggage, under charge of a porter, was on the way to the Washington hotel.

The New York races take place on the Union Course, Long Island, twelve miles distant from the city, and this being the last day of them, we were anxious to embrace what we conceived so good an opportunity of seeing the different ranks of society. Accordingly, we crossed the river at Brooklyn ferry, and engaged a light four-wheeled waggon drawn by one horse. The individuals proceeding to the course in vehicles, and none were observed on foot, seemed under a racing mania, and rattled along the road expeditiously, many of the horses trotting in admirable style. On approaching the course, our horse and waggon were put into a court, and we proceeded on foot.

The Union Course is private property, and completely shut against the public by a fence of strong upright posts, or stakes, enclosing a considerable space of more ground than is occupied by the course. For a considerable distance on each side of the winning post, the exterior fence consists of strong boards impervious to vision, on the top of which are stands capable of containing many thousand people. The interior margin of the raceway is fenced by a low open paling, except opposite the winning-post, where high upright stakes are substituted. A portion of ground including part of the raceway is thus enclosed for the accommodation of the horses, and those more immediately interested in them, by the stands on one, and close upright stakes on three sides, with large gates crossing the raceway, which are kept open during the time of running. A quarter dollar was exacted on passing the outer barrier of the course, on entering which, we found the first race concluded. Inheriting a smack of the jockey, my first object was to obtain a view of the horses; and on applying for admission into the enclosure where they were walking, I learned a ticket was the only passport; but preparations for starting commenced, and the first two-mile heat was run, according to my watch, in three minutes and fifty-seven seconds. My anxiety for a sight of the horses increasing, I applied to a gentleman, seemingly of importance in the racing circle, to be allowed to approach them, and was informed that on paying three dollars, 12s. 9d. sterling, I would obtain a ticket of admission into the enclosure. The terms on which I could come near the horses appearing extravagant, I contented myself with peeping through the stakes at a distance. It would be unfair to attempt a minute description of the animals, under the circumstances in which I was placed, but they seemed not quite so strong as English race-horses, though more sprightly and graceful in the mode of carrying their heads and tails.

There are few finer sights in England than a well-attended race-course in good weather. All ranks, from the king to the beggar, male and female, assemble in their best equipages and gayest attire. Splendour and beauty seem to regard the occasion granted for display; and the more immediate actors in the scene harmonize with the general pageant, a well-trained horse and his rider being a perfect model of chaste neatness. All is, however, different at New York. In the interior of the race-course, there were a limited number of people, few equipages, and a total want of finery or display of any kind. The stands were crowded, but amongst the assembled multitude I could not have numbered more than thirty females who, from their appearance, had no pretensions to the epithet of lady. The jockeys were of all hues, generally coloured boys, whose black faces appeared very grotesque under their bright-coloured, ill-fitting dresses. One jockey, of small size and tender years, was clothed in shabby leather trowsers, which had formed knee-breeches to their original possessor; and a second had his spindle-shanks in old boots of the largest dimensions, with strings below his knees to prevent his trowsers and boots parting company. Bridles and saddles were covered with mould and rust, and in one instance a pair of stirrup-irons were warped with rope, to fit them for a little tawny foot. On coming up to start for the second heat, the horses displayed much impatience, being, generally, led by one, and sometimes two men on foot, as motley and grotesque in appearance as the riders. Two false starts were made; and at the time of finally getting away, one horse had his tail in the direction of the others’ heads. The jockeys rode all in the same style, their toes being placed near to the nose of the horse, and their heads inclining back above the tail. The second heat was run in three minutes and fifty-five seconds, after which I withdrew, disappointed at what I had witnessed.

On reaching a foreign land for the first time, a person is apt to judge every thing he sees by the standard of his own country, until the home-rust, which more or less accumulates on every one, is rubbed off, and a consequent expansion of mind takes place. At first it appeared to me illiberal to exclude the poor from seeing a race, and sordid to exact money from the rich who witnessed it, particularly in a reputed free country like the United States of America. On reflection, however, I could not see any impropriety in making those who enjoy the amusement of horse racing pay for it, more especially when the government does not squander public treasure on such an object, and where the course is private property. I could not ascertain if the course is lucrative, but the funds arising from the following sources, which are extracted from a race bill, must be considerable.

☞No person but a Member, or a resident of another State, invited by a Member to purchase a Ticket, can have access to the Members’ Stand. Any non-resident of New York, so invited, by paying three dollars, may procure a Ticket, for the week, of admission to the Members’ Stand.

The Pavilion will be set apart for Ladies, Members of the Club, and such Gentlemen only as have Tickets to the Members’ Stand.

⁂An efficient Police is provided to preserve order, and see that the Rules are strictly adhered to and enforced.

The next day we were accidently carried to the farm of Westhouses, where we saw an extensive breeding stud of thoroughbred horses, amongst which was a sister to Eclipse, the most celebrated horse in the States, and Henry, next in fame to Eclipse. The gentlemen of the turf consider their horses superior to those of England, equal distances being run in less time; but the style of running is, however, different, the weights of America being lighter, and the horses pushed from the starting-post.

We experienced a most severe thunderstorm while at tea, but the young ladies of the party did not seem to concern themselves about the war of elements, the most vivid lightnings flashing without remark. We travelled a few miles after the storm abated, and daylight had disappeared. The calls of toads and catydids were deafening, and innumerable fire-flies illuminated the face of nature, and lighted our way. The wetness of the evening induced us to remain for the night at the house of a friend, instead of returning to New York. Next morning I was awoke from a sound sleep by a loud knocking at my bedroom window, and on answering the call, my disturber asked the hour. After looking at my watch, I answered, twenty minutes past three o’clock, and added, he had surely made a mistake in coming to me. He sharply answered, in a disagreeable nasal twang, “I have slept too long, that is all the mistake, I guess.” In a few minutes afterwards, all hands, including several of the family, were engaged in milking cows; and the produce of about twenty was despatched for New York before five o’clock, under charge of the person who awoke me, and I learned that he had contracted for the milk during the season. We breakfasted at six o’clock, and were immediately afterwards drawn to the city by a pair of handsome chestnut geldings, at the rate of eight miles an hour, and which would have graced any barouche in Britain. Our vehicle was the common four-wheeled waggon of the country, with two deals across for temporary seats, and it was to return loaded with seed-potatoes. We drove smack up to the Washington Hotel, one of the most fashionable houses in the most celebrated street in New York; and in course of our progress I was amused at the uneasiness of my friend, one of the best and plainest of men, at being carried to our residence in such a mean-looking carriage. During his short residence in the States, he had not learned to shake off that aristocratic feeling which so generally pervades human nature, and has produced much misery in the world.

After changing our linens, we set out in a gig for Long Island, proceeding by way of Flushing, and returning by the beautiful village of Jamaica. Long Island has been termed the garden of the States—a name which it may well merit from its numerous orchards, but certainly not from the fertility of the soil, or the management which it is under. The land is generally of light texture, requiring constant supplies of manure, and a considerable part of it is sand of the poorest quality. The enclosures were small, the fences bad, and every description of crop inferior. Parts of the surface were covered with thriftless brushwood, and there were numerous pools of water which might have been easily drained. Many of the houses were composed of brick, others of wood, resembling the country-seats or villas of England. As a protection from the sun’s rays, windows were generally provided with green Venetian blinds opening on the outside. Grave-yards, or private burying places, were innumerable, and like the flower plots and gardens, kept in an untidy manner.

On passing the village of Newtown, celebrated as the place where the delicious apple bearing its name was first discovered, we drove into a shed, a convenience attached to every country place of entertainment in the eastern United States, and after giving orders for the tending of our horse, applied at the bar of a respectable-looking hotel, if we could have dinner. A thin vixen-looking woman peeped from behind a door, and whispered something to the landlord, who immediately told us, in a civil tone of voice, he could not comply with the request, as they were engaged in cleaning the house. There was no alternative but to proceed, and on reaching a good-looking hotel at Flushing, about one o’clock, we learned that the dinner hour was at two, but no objection was made to accommodate us immediately. Table was prepared by a pretty young woman, called, in this part of the world, a hired girl; and in less than a quarter of an hour from the time of our arrival, dinner was set before us. The same person, whom I consider entitled to the name of lady, being neat in dress, easy and polite in manners, waited during dinner in a standing position. She conversed freely and sensibly on different subjects, without forwardness or levity of conduct, and apologized for part of our fare not being so nice as it would have been, had time been allowed for preparation. On paying the bill, a gratuity was not proffered for her services, nor did she seem to expect it. The hostler, however, made a demand, and told us he did not receive wages from the master of the house, but depended entirely on travellers for remuneration.

The nurseries of Messrs Prince, the most extensive in America, are situated at Flushing, and were visited by us. The grounds, compared with such places in Britain, and some others which I saw in America, seemed badly kept, being full of perennial root-weeds of the most troublesome description, as well as those of annual growth.

Agriculture being little known as a science in any part of America, and but imperfectly understood as an art, the same diversity of opinion, and mode of management, prevail as in Britain, with greater difficulty of becoming acquainted with them. The following particulars relate to the neighbourhood of New York.

Grass crops are mown for hay five or six years in succession, without being top-dressed or manured in any way—the aftermath, which is seldom abundant, being depastured. Five pounds of red clover, and half a peck of timothy seeds (Phileum pratense), are sown on an acre; and also, occasionally, small quantities of herd-grass and redtop, two kinds of poea. I believe the red clover lives longer than it commonly does in the cultivated fields of Britain, having seen many plants after five successive crops of hay. The grass, on being ploughed, is followed in the first year by Indian corn without manure, by potatoes with manure in the second year, and, if early, they are followed with buck-wheat; barley is taken in the third year, and in the fourth, oats accompanied with grass-seeds. Potatoes are grown in drills as in Britain, and sometimes in hills three or four feet distant, formed by the surface being marked into squares by the plough. A whole potato, or three cuttings, are placed above the manure, and both covered over with earth by the spade. Disease in the potato was said to be unknown. The fruit crop is often injured by spring frosts, and wheat by mildew. Swede turnip is sown in August, and stored before winter. Geese are plucked three times a-year—live goose feathers being a general article of commerce.

Farm labourers, or helps, get from ten to twelve dollars a-month, with bed and board, including washing, and a deduction is made for sickness or voluntary absence. A married man is allowed from ninety-five to one hundred and twenty dollars a-year, instead of board; and pays from twenty to twenty-five dollars for house and garden rent. The hours of labour are from sunrise to sundown, without a specified time for meals, to which they are commonly summoned by sound of horn. Hired men do not consider themselves bound for any length of time, and occasionally absent themselves for a day or two without giving notice of their intention. Hired spade-men get seventy-five cents, or three-quarters of a dollar per day, without board, all the year round.

Journey from New York to Philadelphia—Steam-boat—Railway Coach—Militia Muster—American and British Soldiers—Characters of Travellers—Mansion-house Hotel—Funeral—Excursion to Holmsburg—Hotel-keepers in America and Ireland—Mr W * *—Sir John Sinclair of America—Fair Mount—Naval Yard—Philadelphia—Return to New York—Face of the Country—Agricultural Details.

We left New York in a steam-boat, a little after six o’clock in the morning, and reached South Amboy, on Rariton bay, a distance of twenty-eight miles, at half-past eight. From Amboy we travelled on a railway to Bordentown, distant thirty-four miles, in carriages drawn by two horses, which were changed three times in four hours, and thence down the Delaware river, by steam, to Philadelphia, where we arrived at three o’clock.

The passengers breakfasted and dined on board the steam-boat, paying half a dollar (2s. 1½ d.) for each meal; no difference in charge or accommodation being made, and smoking in the cabin or after-part of the vessel was prohibited. There is a bar on board, at which liquors, segars, maps, &c. &c., may be obtained. American steam-boats have been compared to flourishing hotels, a term not sufficiently comprehensive, as they contain barbers, commodities of different kinds for sale, and often horses and carriages. They are floating cities.

Soon after leaving New York, the passengers were warned by bell to purchase breakfast tickets, and some time afterwards to identify their luggage, when all belonging to those proceeding to Philadelphia was placed in a large crate, which was lifted from the steamer to a carriage, and again to a steamer, by means of cranes, without its contents being moved. The railway carriages rest on four wheels—are divided into three compartments, each containing six persons, many of whom are provided with tickets for their respective places before leaving the vessel. The horses were placed in sheds, ready harnessed, at the different changing places, for greater expedition in attaching them to the carriages. Every arrangement in this line of travelling is excellent.

In passing along the railway, the train of carriages stopped for a few minutes, which afforded us an opportunity of seeing a militia muster, which some writers have humorously described. The dresses of the men consisted of all hues and shapes, there were hats with and without feathers, and some garnished with roses. The guns consisted of single and double barrels, with not a few rifles amongst them. Many of the corps were seen approaching the muster ground on horseback, and others in light waggons drawn by beautiful horses. The soldiers were, generally, small, thin, miserable-looking creatures, and such as would not often have been enlisted in the British army. A young gentleman, lately arrived from England, and a fellow-passenger in the Napoleon and railway coach, was quizzing the mean appearance of the militiamen, when a blithe, jolly-looking fellow from Baltimore good-humouredly remarked, that such men as these beat off the English at New Orleans; and some conversation on the relative merits of American and British soldiers took place; the citizen of Baltimore was drawn into the question.

Whether American or British soldiers are the best, will, I trust, long remain undecided by actual trial. There is, however, no doubt, that the British are apparently more muscular than the Americans, and I imagine also more capable of enduring fatigue and privations. But large men do not load muskets faster than those of smaller dimensions, while they are more easily hit by a bullet. My ingenious friend W——, residing in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, is of opinion, that the best fed army will always prove conquerors, and attributes the success of the American army and navy, last war, to the circumstance of the Americans having been better fed than the British. The influence of food in imparting strength and courage to animals is well known, and, under a parity of circumstances, the best fed army will prove victorious. But my friend’s argument, to be of weight, requires the British to have been under-fed, a circumstance not likely to have occurred; but in American warfare, when men are often armed with rifles and masked by trees, strength and courage are not brought into play. While the Americans fight in their own country, in defence of wives, families, and property, notwithstanding their liberty and equality notions, and want of discipline, they will always prove an overmatch for hireling soldiers of any nation. But place them in a foreign land, amidst pestilence and privation, with no incentives to exertion but a miserable pittance called pay and frivolous glory, I doubt if they would display deeds of greatness and valour as Britons have often done.

We had not been long seated in the railway coach, when the Englishman became the butt of some Americans, who crammed him with such absurdities, that he must have returned home, which he shortly intended doing, with very erroneous ideas of the States; and the quickness with which his character was discovered by the Americans did credit to their discrimination. The tenor of a foreigner’s conversation with the natives on his first arrival is an index to his understanding, and the information he receives is often made to accord with his capacity and feelings instead of truth. Without sound judgment to discriminate and appreciate information, the gleanings and impressions of a traveller must be as apt to mislead as instruct others, and his lucubrations will often be found more illustrative of his own character than of the people and country he visits. We took up our residence at the Mansion-house hotel, Philadelphia, kept by Mr Head; but it did not seem to warrant the praises bestowed on it by some travellers, meal hours not being regularly kept; and the bed of my friend was preoccupied by a set of mischievous natives, which fortunately in no instance paid their respects to me.

While walking after tea, a funeral passed by, which was the first I had seen on American soil. A hearse moved slowly along the side of the street, accompanied by about thirty men walking two and two on the pavement, dressed in coloured clothes, without crape on hat or arm; then followed six or seven females, each supported by a gentleman, and both sexes were dressed in black garments, and seemed to be near relations of the deceased; then came forty or fifty men and women in pairs, partly in black and partly in coloured clothes, which closed the procession. I afterwards observed a funeral train at New York, composed entirely of men, chiefly in coloured clothes, arranged in pairs. The custom of attending funerals in coloured clothes is said to be of recent introduction; and as grief springs from the heart, and cannot be expressed by hue of garment, this innovation on old custom is creditable as well as advantageous to the people.

Wishing to visit a gentleman residing fourteen miles from Philadelphia, to whom I had letters of introduction, the proprietor of the hotel demanded five dollars, 21s. 3d., sterling, for a carriage to convey us to the place and back again by midday. The charge appearing unreasonable, I made application at several quarters, and at last engaged an Irishman on the street, who undertook the journey for three dollars, and he fulfilled his engagement to our perfect satisfaction.

Next morning, we left Philadelphia at an early hour, and on reaching Holmsburg, were refused breakfast at an unpretending hotel, without a reason being assigned. On applying, however, at another hotel on the opposite side of the street, we were more fortunate, and had every thing set before us which could appease hunger or gratify the palate. The refusal of breakfast reminded me of being in Ireland in 1830; on which occasion I was accompanied by a friend. We travelled from Drogheda to Kells, in the county of Meath, in a common car of the country, exposed to a burning sun, and choking dust. On reaching that lovely village, and alighting at an inn, we were told the Marquis of —— was momently expected, on which account we could not be accommodated, and at a second inn experienced the same disagreeable reception. I exerted the little eloquence with which Nature has endowed me to obtain a single room, and after despairing of success, I petitioned for a stall in the stable. The heart of mine hostess was so far overcome as to provide tea, and allow us to wash in a dirty miserable-looking room. I here despatched a card to a landed proprietor in the neighbourhood by an errand-boy of the house. This circumstance changed the state of affairs all of a sudden; but I withdrew to the house of my friend in the country. The great man did not make his appearance that evening; yet the mere expectation of his arrival deprived us of food and shelter. What a miserable state of society!

The tavern-keepers of Ireland, and those of Newton and Holmsburg, seem to have been actuated by very different motives. Both were culpably unaccommodating; but those of America, probably, acted from saucy independence—those of Ireland, from greedy and needy dependence. Paddy wished to fawn on the rich man, and enjoy the crumbs which fell from his establishment; while Jonathan indulged his own humour, and disregarded crumbs of every kind.

Just as we approached Mr W——’s, rain began to fall, and prevented our examination of his farm, which I much regretted. Our stay, however, was prolonged till after dinner, having been fascinated by the sentiments of his powerful and original mind. Besides acquiring much useful information regarding the United States generally, I learned the advantages of introductory letters, which I too lightly esteemed, from the circumstance of having, when a young man, travelled over a considerable portion of England without such credentials, and obtained access to whatever interested me, by stating, either verbally or in writing, the object of my visit. Mrs W—— asked me if I had a friend named Flanagan, and on being answered in the negative, added, that a person, passing by that name, introduced himself to her husband as my bosom friend, and in consequence received considerable attention for seven or eight months, at the end of which he decamped, without paying his debts. On reflection, I recollected having received and answered two letters from a person of that name in the north of Ireland, which formed the extent of our intercourse. Introductory letters have become so common of late years, that in many quarters they are treated with neglect. They ate perhaps unnecessary to liberal-minded men, and only useful to guard against imposition.

Returning to Philadelphia in the afternoon, I delivered an introductory letter to an eminent individual, who had been described to me as the Sir John Sinclair of America, which appellation I found he well merited. A dirty-looking girl opened the door of a house in one of the principal streets, and desired me to occupy a seat in the passage until —— came down stairs. The passage was about five feet wide by forty in length, and so dark that objects were not distinctly visible in the lightest part of it; and in this hole, on a plain wooden chair, I sat for upwards of a quarter of an hour before the gentleman made his appearance. During this interval of suspense, I debated with myself the indignity offered me according to British notions, and whether I ought to leave my dungeon in disgust; but on reflection I resolved to submit to any thing, short of insult and imposition, that might come in the way, whilst amongst the Americans, for the double purpose of seeing character and ensuring personal comfort—knowing how disagreeable it would be to act at variance with the manners and customs of a nation, and vain to expect to bring the population to my way of thinking on such matters. The gentleman at last made his appearance, and conducted me to a room, without saying a single word about the delay he had occasioned, or the situation in which I had been placed; and from his manners being easy and polite, I was led to conjecture that sitting in the dark lobby was a common occurrence with his visitors. My reception was flattering, his offers of service extensive, and conversation, which was chiefly agricultural, more fluent than profound.

Rain continued to fall in torrents during the night and next day, which prevented us visiting the celebrated botanic gardens belonging to Colonel Ker, to whom we had letters. With the aid of a street coach, we, however, reached Fair Mount, where public works which supply the city with water are situated. The machinery is propelled by water from the river, part of which is raised to an elevated reservoir, from which the city receives a copious supply for every purpose. The reservoir is surrounded by a pale fence, enclosing well-kept walks, accessible by flights of steps. The beauty of the spot and surrounding scenery deserve a visit from every person of taste, even although they disregard the machinery of the works.

From Fair Mount we drove to the Naval Yard, which we reached just as the workmen were leaving it to dine, during which time visitors are excluded. The sentinel on duty enquired if we were foreigners, and on learning that we were, conveyed information to his superior in command, but on his return informed us we could not be admitted. While we lamented being too late to see the Naval Yard, the justness of our exclusion was fully admitted.

Philadelphia contains about 170,000 inhabitants, is the second place in population and the fourth in shipping within the United States, and forms the depôt to a county yearly increasing in population, wealth, and extent. It is situated on the west bank of the Delaware river, which is navigated by vessels of the largest size. Many of the streets are shaded with trees, and all of them remarkably clean and well paved, running parallel and at right angles to each other. The houses are generally built of red brick, those of some of the principal streets having the basement, steps, door, and window sides of white marble. The doors are in general painted white, and have silver handles and knockers. Houses of this description have a chaste and pleasing appearance. Many of the public buildings are elegant, and composed of white marble. The city is generally considered regular, to a fault—the inhabitants the most wealthy, fashionable, and polished in America.

The weather continuing wet, we left Philadelphia for New York at three o’clock in the afternoon, passing the night at Perth Amboy, where we paid a charge of threepence sterling for cleaning boots, and reached New York next morning. The railway from Amboy to Bordentown passes chiefly through Middlesex county, state of New Jersey. The soil is absolutely drift sand, and, according to my present notions of farming, unworthy of cultivation. The crops consisted chiefly of rye and Indian corn, and were uniformly bad. Clovers and timothy grass are seldom sown. In several instances lime and gypsum had been applied where Indian corn was growing, having been carried to the field in waggons, and spread thinly over the surface. In one instance farmyard manure was being applied in imperfectly formed drills, which I supposed were destined to receive potatoes. Women were seen hoeing Indian corn in the fields, but I could not discover whether they were white or coloured. The cattle grazing on the scanty herbage appeared mere starvelings, and smaller than some of the Highland cattle of Scotland. The sheep were even more miserable-looking than the cattle, and many of them retained their winter fleece. Pigs corresponded with the sheep and cattle; the horse alone forming an exception to the general wretchedness, some noble animals of this species being met with. Many orchards, consisting chiefly of peach-trees, the fruit of which is distilled into brandy, had been lately formed, and seemed the only thriving thing on the surface of the earth. The men seen at the militia muster, already noticed, are inhabitants of this district, and appeared to partake of its character.

When passing along the railway, I was much struck with the beauty of a plant, bearing a profusion of pink-coloured flowers, which the rapidity of motion prevented me seeing distinctly; and on asking its name, one passenger guessed it to be lauristinus and another hawthorn, but which I soon discovered to be rhododendron. This plant grows in great profusion along the road, and more especially around the seat of Joseph Bonaparte, near Bordentown.

The country around Philadelphia through which we passed, forms a striking contrast to that of New Jersey; its general aspect resembling, in all respects, the finest parts of the south of England. Many of the fences consist of well-kept thorn-hedges, studded with wide spreading trees; and many of the crops were excellent, although the soil is not generally in a high state of cultivation. The trees were covered with massy rich foliage, superior to any thing I had ever witnessed before—the effects of which were heightened by the season of the year and prevailing weather, which was warm and moist. Here and there a few pollard trees were seen raising their thin tops and branchless trunks amidst the glorious exuberance of nature; and when viewed in the landscape with the weeping willow, queen of American vegetation, the tendrils of which, clothed with shining leaves, hang in graceful festoons thirty feet in length, show how destitute of beauty are the works of man when compared with those of nature.

Men assisting at farm-work, in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, get from ten to twelve dollars, with maintenance, per month, and they are not easily obtained to attend regularly at work. Young men and women of the industrious classes in the country dress in fashionable clothes of the finest fabrics before marriage, after which, the wife becomes a lady, and generally engages a hired girl or help. Thrashing machines are common, but not good; and when the flail is used, barley and oats cost three cents, rye seven cents, and wheat twelve and a half cents per bushel, when found,—that is, food provided for the workmen. From the high price of human labour, compared with the price of food, Indian corn is often trod out by oxen. Craddlers generally mow round the field when the crop admits of doing so; and stop only when the scythe requires to be sharped. Hay costs in cutting from one to one and a half dollar per acre. Mr W—— pointed out a field of rye which was a good crop, and which he had a few days before let to be craddled at seventy-five cents per acre, without board or any other etcetera. The craddler not being permitted to sit at table with the family, and disliking to eat in the kitchen, had agreed to board with one of Mr W——’s labourers for forty-five cents per day, and would be thus fed, viz. breakfast at seven o’clock, on wheat-bread, rye-bread, fish, cheese, butter, and coffee; luncheon at ten o’clock, on cold meat, pickled pork, cheese, butter, pickles, bread, and coffee; dine at twelve, on every thing that is good and substantial; at five is served coffee, with bread, butter, fruit, and fruit-pie. Occasionally supper is taken at seven, but this meal is considered superfluous. Mr W—— thinks Americans perform a great deal more work than Englishmen, which he attributes to their being better fed. At the conclusion of my transatlantic tour, my opinion is, the inhabitants of America do not work near so much as those of Britain throughout the week or year, although they may, perhaps, do more in a day. The strength and expertness of workmen seems a favourite idea—those of every district which I have visited being accounted by the inhabitants the best in the world. But the climate of England being better fitted for exertion than that of America, and the apparent health and strength of Englishmen superior, I can discover no reason why they should do less work than the Americans. Men and animals may be considered machines capable of manufacturing or yielding labour according as they are fed, provided their powers be not weakened by excess, or other circumstances affecting health. The half-starved, potato-fed Irishman could no more keep pace during a day’s work with the meat-eating American, than the grass-fed steed with one trained on corn and hay. It is shortsighted policy in a master to pinch his labourer of food, when he reaps the fruits of his exertions.

In the neighbourhood of Philadelphia, land of fine quality and in high condition, may be had from 100 to 120 dollars per acre. Produce of all descriptions is high, and the straw of a wheat crop has been sold at thirty dollars per acre. Wheat is often mildewed. I saw several fields of a newly introduced grass, called Andes grass, said to have been lately brought from the range of hills in South America bearing that name. On examining the plant in the fields, and the seed in the shops, I think it is identical with the small-bulbed oat-like grass (Holcus avenceus of Sinclair) indigenous to Britain, and which I afterwards observed growing in a state of nature in different parts of New York State. Much has been said and written in exaggeration of Mr W——’s system of farming; and he seemed highly amused when told of their nature. He grows excellent Swede turnip after his wheat crop, and this is the only succession of crops he gets in one year. His system is to plough in green vegetable matter, such as clover aftermath, French beans, and Indian corn, for manure to other crops. Horses and cattle are soiled with green food in summer, farming operations appeared to be well executed, and every thing connected with the establishment was in good order. Mr W. takes charge of agricultural pupils for 300 dollars a-year; and, from my visit to this gentleman, I think him eminently qualified for imparting knowledge to them. Young boys are often apprenticed to farmers for four years, with a stipulation of getting a quarter’s schooling each year of their apprenticeship.