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A Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and Culinary Poisons / Exhibiting the Fraudulent Sophistications of Bread, Beer, Wine, Spiritous Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Cream, Confectionery, Vinegar, Mustard, Pepper, Cheese, Olive Oil, Pickles, and Other Articles Employed in Domestic Economy cover

A Treatise on Adulterations of Food, and Culinary Poisons / Exhibiting the Fraudulent Sophistications of Bread, Beer, Wine, Spiritous Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Cream, Confectionery, Vinegar, Mustard, Pepper, Cheese, Olive Oil, Pickles, and Other Articles Employed in Domestic Economy

Chapter 46: INDEX.
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About This Book

The treatise surveys common adulterations and culinary poisons and provides practical, nontechnical methods for detecting contaminants in water, bread, beer, wine, spirits, tea, coffee, oils, condiments, cheeses, pickles, and confectionery. Organized by commodity, it explains simple household tests, procedures for estimating alcohol and other adulterants, and signs of hazardous contamination, while outlining health risks from fraudulent or accidental impurities. The text includes tabular data and documented examples of deceptive practices and offers guidance for safer handling, storage, and consumer vigilance to help readers recognize and avoid dangerous or fraudulent foodstuffs.

FOOTNOTES:

[114] Fungi plerique veneno turgent. Linn. Amæn. Acad.

[115] Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi?—Plin. Nat. Hist. xxii. 23.

[116] Sen. Ep. 95.


Poisonous Soda Water.

The beverage called soda water is frequently contaminated both with copper and lead; these metals being largely employed in the construction of the apparatus for preparing the carbonated water,[117] and the great excess of carbonic acid which the water contains, particularly enables it to act strongly on the metallic substances of the apparatus; a truth, of which the reader will find no difficulty in convincing himself, by suffering a stream of sulphuretted hydrogen gas to pass through the water.—See p. 70.

FOOTNOTES:

[117] Some manufacturers have been hence induced to construct the apparatus for manufacturing soda water wholly either of earthenware or of glass. Mr. Johnston, of Greek Street, Soho, was the first who pointed out to the public the absolute necessity of this precaution.


Food poisoned by Copper Vessels.

Many kinds of viands are frequently impregnated with copper, in consequence of the employment of cooking utensils made of that metal. By the use of such vessels in dressing food, we are daily liable to be poisoned; as almost all acid vegetables, as well as sebaceous or pinguid substances, employed in culinary preparations, act upon copper, and dissolve a portion of it; and too many examples are met with of fatal consequences having ensued from eating food which had been dressed in copper vessels not well cleaned from the oxide of copper which they had contracted by being exposed to the action of air and moisture.

The inexcusable negligence of persons who make use of copper vessels has been productive of mortality, so much more terrible, as they have exerted their action on a great number of persons at once. The annals of medicine furnish too many examples in support of this assertion, to render it necessary to insist more upon it here.

Mr. Thiery, who wrote a thesis on the noxious quality of copper, observes, that "our food receives its quantity of poison in the kitchen by the use of copper pans and dishes. The brewer mingles poison in our beer, by boiling it in copper vessels. The sugar-baker employs copper pans; the pastry-cook bakes our tarts in copper moulds; the confectioner uses copper vessels: the oilman boils his pickles in copper or brass vessels, and verdigris is plentifully formed by the action of the vinegar upon the metal.

"Though, after all, a single dose be not mortal, yet a quantity of poison, however small, when taken at every meal, must produce more fatal effects than are generally apprehended; and different constitutions are differently affected by minute quantities of substances that act powerfully on the system."

The author of a tract, entitled, "Serious Reflections on the Dangers attending the Use of Copper Vessels," asserts that a numerous and frightful train of diseases is occasioned by the poisonous effects of pernicious matter received into the stomach insensibly with our victuals.

Dr. Johnston[118] gives an account of the melancholy catastrophe of three men being poisoned, after excruciating sufferings, in consequence of eating food cooked in an unclean copper vessel, on board the Cyclops frigate; and, besides these, thirty-three men became ill from the same cause.

The following case[119] is related by Sir George Baker, M. D.

"Some cyder, which had been made in a gentleman's family, being thought too sour, was boiled with honey in a brewing vessel, the rim of which was capped with lead. All who drank this liquor were seized with a bowel colic, more or less violently. One of the servants died very soon in convulsions; several others were cruelly tortured a long time. The master of the family, in particular, notwithstanding all the assistance which art could give him, never recovered his health; but died miserably, after having almost three years languished under a most tedious and incurable malady."

Too much care and attention cannot be taken in preserving all culinary utensils of copper, in a state unexceptionably fit for their destined purpose. They should be frequently tinned, and kept thoroughly clean, nor should any food ever be suffered to remain in them for a longer time than is absolutely necessary to their preparation for the table. But the sure preventive of its pernicious effect, is, to banish copper utensils from the kitchen altogether.

The following wholesome advice on this subject is given to cooks by the author of an excellent cookery book.[120]

"Stew-pans and soup-kettles should be examined every time they are used; these, and their covers, must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, not only on the inside, but about a couple of inches on the outside; so much mischief arises from their getting out of repair; and, if not kept nicely tinned, all your work will be in vain; the broths and soups will look green and dirty, and taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and your credit will be lost; and as the health, and even the life, of the family depends upon this; the cook may be sure her employer had rather pay the tin-man's bill than the doctor's."

The senate of Sweden, in the year 1753, prohibited copper vessels, and ordered that none but such as were made of iron should be used in their fleet and armies.

FOOTNOTES:

[118] Johnston's Essay on Poison, p. 102.

[119] Medical Transactions, vol. i. p. 213.

[120] Apicius Redivivus, p. 91.


Food Poisoned by Leaden Vessels.

Various kinds of food used in domestic economy, are liable to become impregnated with lead.

The glazing of the common cream-coloured earthen ware, which is composed of an oxide of lead, readily yields to the action of vinegar and saline compounds; and therefore jars and pots of this kind of stone ware, are wholly unfit to contain jellies of fruits, marmalade, and similar conserves. Pickles should in no case be deposited in cream-coloured glazed earthenware.

The custom which still prevails in some parts of this country of keeping milk in leaden vessels for the use of the dairy, is very improper.

"In Lancashire[121] the dairies are furnished with milk-pans made of lead: and when Mr. Parks expostulated with some individuals on the danger of this practice, he was told that leaden milk-pans throw up the cream much better than vessels of any other kind.

"In some parts of the north of England it is customary for the inn-keepers to prepare mint-salad by bruising and grinding the vegetable in a large wooden bowl with a ball of lead of twelve or fourteen pounds weight. In this operation the mint is cut, and portions of the lead are ground off at every revolution of the ponderous instrument. In the same county, it is a common practice to have brewing-coppers constructed with the bottom of copper and the whole sides of lead."

The baking of fruit tarts in cream-coloured earthenware, and the salting and preserving of meat in leaden pans, are no less objectionable. All kinds of food which contain free vegetable acids, or saline preparations, attack utensils covered with a glaze, in the composition of which lead enters as a component part. The leaden beds of presses for squeezing the fruit in cyder countries, have produced incalculable mischief. These consequences never follow, when the lead is combined with tin; because this metal, being more eager for oxidation, prevents the solution of the lead.

When we consider the various unsuspected means by which the poisons of lead and copper gain admittance into the human body, a very common but dangerous instance presents itself: namely, the practice of painting toys, made for the amusement of children, with poisonous substances, viz. red lead, verdigris, &c. Children are apt to put every thing, especially what gives them pleasure, into their mouths; the painting of toys with colouring substances that are poisonous, ought therefore to be abolished; a practice which lies the more open to censure, as it is of no real utility.

FOOTNOTES:

[121] Park's Chemical Essays, vol. v. p. 193.


INDEX.

  • A
    • Adulteration of anchovy sauce, PAGE 234
    • beer, 113
    • brandy, 187
    • bread, 98
    • catsup, 227
    • cayenne pepper, 215
    • cheese, 206
    • coffee, 176
    • confectionery, 224
    • cream, 222
    • custard, 231
    • gin, 187
    • lemon acid, 243
    • lozenges, 236
    • malt spirits, 197
    • mustard, 241
    • olive oil, 239
    • pepper, 211
    • pickles, 217
    • porter, 113
    • rum, 187
    • soda water, 251
    • tea, black, 173
    • green, 173
    • vinegar, 173
    • distilled, 221
    • wine, 74
    • Age of beer, how fraudulently imitated, 148
    • Alcohol, quantity contained in different kinds of wine, 94
    • malt liquors, 126
    • spiritous liquors, 205
    • Ale, Burton, quantity of spirit which it contains, 162
    • Dorchester,      ditto     ditto, 162
    • Edinburgh,        ditto     ditto, 162
    • Home-brewed  ditto     ditto, 162
    • Alum, bleaching property in the panification of bread flour, 104
    • method of detecting it in bread, 108
    • for brightening muddy wines, 74
    • clarifying spiritous liquors, 200
    • adulterating beer, 134
    • Arrack, imitation of, 196
    • Batavia, quantity of alcohol contained in it, 205
    • Arrow root, sophistication of, 29

  • B
    • Bakers, their methods of judging of the goodness of bread flour, 111
    • Beer, adulteration of, 113
    • act prohibiting it, 114
    • method of detecting it, 158
    • with narcotic substances, 150
    • with opium, tobacco, &c., 150
    • colouring of, act prohibiting it, 123
    • heading, composition and use of, 134
    • hard, what is meant by it, 148
    • fraudulent method of producing it, 148
    • half-spoiled, fraudulent practice of recovering it, 149
    • illegal substances used for adulterating it, 131
    • old, what is meant by it, 144
    • quantity of spirit contained in different kinds, 160
    • strong, adulteration of with small beer, 140
    • act prohibiting it, 140
    • how defined by law, 128
    • strength of different kinds, 125
    • Bilberries, employed for colouring port wine, 74
    • Bittern, for adulterating beer, 18
    • Black Extract, for adulterating beer, 150
    • Bland, Mr. tragical catastrophe of, 81
    • Bouquet of high-flavoured wines, how produced, 75
    • Brandy, adulteration of, 187
    • and method of detecting it, 195
    • complexion of, what is meant by it, 195
    • Brandy flavour of, how imitated, 193
    • imitative, manufacture of, 194
    • method of compounding for retail trade, 195
    • quantity contained in different sorts of wine, 94
    • of alcohol contained in different kinds of, 205
    • legal strength, 190
    • how discovered by the Excise, 188
    • false strength, 195
    • flavour, imitative, how produced, 193
    • Brazil wood, application of for colouring wine, 74
    • Bread, adulteration of with alum 98
    • methods of detecting it, 108
    • with potatoes, 105
    • goodness of, how estimated in this metropolis, 98
    • how rendered white and firm, 99
    • corn, method of judging its goodness, 110
    • flour, different sorts of from the same kind of grain, 99
    • adulteration of with bean flour, 99
    • process of making five bushels into bread, 102
    • made from new corn, improvement of, 107
    • method of judging of goodness, 110
    • Brewers, list of, prosecuted for using illegal substances in their brewings, 151
    • convicted of adulterating their strong beer with table beer, 143
    • Druggists, 119
    • prosecuted for supplying illegal ingredients to brewers for adulterating beer, 119
    • Breweries, illegal substances seized at various, 136
    • Brown Stout, quantity of spirit contained in it, 126

  • C
    • Calcavella, quantity of brandy which it contains, 95
    • Carbonate of ammonia, used by fraudulent bakers, 105
    • Catsup, adulteration of, 227
    • Claret, quantity of brandy which it contains, 95
    • Clary, used for flavouring wine, 75
    • Cheese, poisonous, and method of detecting it, 206
    • Chemists, are not permitted to sell illegal ingredients to brewers for adulterating beer, 118
    • list of, convicted of this fraud, 119
    • Cherry-laurel water, dangerous application of for flavouring creams, &c., 231
    • used in the manufacture of spurious wines, 75
    • in the manufacture of brandy, 195
    • Citric Acid, adulteration of, 244
    • method of detecting, 245
    • Cocculus indicus, nefarious application of in the brewing of beer, 18
    • early law prohibiting its application, 115
    • brewers prosecuted for using it, 152
    • seizures made of at different breweries, 136
    • narcotic property of, to what owing, 153
    • extract of, application in brewing, 136
    • Coffee, adulteration of, 176
    • law in force against it, 177
    • grocers lately convicted of selling spurious, 176
    • Confectionery, adulteration of, 224
    • methods of detecting it, 225
    • Conserves, contamination of with copper, 226
    • should never be deposited in vessels glazed with lead, 257
    • Constantia, quantity of spirit which it contains, 94
    • Copperas, or salt of steel, publicans convicted of mixing it with their beer, 129
    • seizures of, at various breweries, 136
    • Cream, adulteration of, and mode of detecting it, 222
    • Custards, flavoured with cherry laurel leaves, dangerous effects from it, 231
    • Cyder, melancholy catastrophe of persons drinking such as was contaminated with lead, 254

  • E
    • Elder-berries are used for colouring port wine, 74
    • flowers are used for flavouring insipid white wines, 75
    • Entire beer, origin of its name, 144
    • composition of, 146
    • Extract of cocculus indicus is used by fraudulent brewers, 136

  • F
    • False strength, how given to wine and spiritous liquors, 19, 192
    • how given to vinegar, 220
    • Flavour of French brandy, how imitated, 194
    • Flour, new, of an indifferent quality, how rendered fit for being made into good and wholesome bread, 107
    • different sorts, from the same kind of grain, 99
    • sour, practice of converting it into bread, 105
    • Food, rendered poisonous by copper vessels, 252
    • by leaden vessels, 257
    • Frothy head of porter, how artificially produced, 133

  • G
    • Geneva, Dutch, quantity of alcohol which it contains, 205
    • Gin, adulteration of, 187
    • quantity of alcohol contained in different sorts, 205
    • dangerous method of clarifying, 202
    • legal exactment of its saleable strength, 197
    • proof, what is meant by this term, 188
    • strength of, how ascertained by the Excise, 188
    • sweetened, fraudulent practice of composing it for sale, 200
    • unsweetened,   ditto        ditto, 200
    • false strength, how given, 202

  • H
    • Hermitage, quantity of brandy which it contains, 95
    • Hops, adulteration of, prohibited by law, 132
    • its chemical action upon beer, 133
    • Hydrometer, legal, now in use for ascertaining the strength of spiritous liquors, 187
    • Hyson tea, spurious. See Tea leaves

  • I
  • L
    • Leaden pumps and water reservoirs, dangerous effects to be apprehended from them, 62
    • Lisbon, quantity of spirit which it contains, 94
    • Lozenges, adulteration of, 236
    • Lemon acid, adulteration of, 243
    • method of detecting it, 244

  • M
    • Madeira, quantity of brandy which it contains, 94
    • Malaga, quantity of brandy contained in it, 94
    • Malt, patent, for colouring porter, 123
    • disadvantages of, 124
    • liquors, dangerous adulteration of, 115
    • strength of different kinds. See Porter, 126
    • spirits, adulterations of, 197
    • characteristic flavour, to what owing, 197
    • nefarious practices of compounding them for sale, 199
    • false strength, how given, 202
    • act restricting the strength of it, 197
    • Meat, salted, should not be preserved in leaden vessels, 258
    • Milk, improper practice of keeping it in leaden vessels, 257
    • Mint salad, pernicious custom of preparing it, 258
    • Multum, a substance employed for adulterating beer, 17
    • seizures of, at various breweries, 136
    • Mushroom, poisonous, 246
    • Catsup, 250
    • Mustard, adulteration of, 241

  • O
    • Oak-wood saw-dust, is used in the manufacture of spurious port wine, 75
    • in the manufacture of spurious brandy, 194
    • Orris-root, is used for flavouring insipid wines, 75
    • Olive oil, contamination of, with lead, and method of detecting it, 239

  • P
    • Pickles, contamination of with copper, 219
    • improper vessels for keeping them, 257
    • Pepper, black, adulteration of, 211
    • law in force against it, 213
    • Poisonous Cheese, 206
    • Cayenne pepper, 215
    • catsup, 227
    • custard, 231
    • olive oil, 239
    • mushroom, 246
    • pickles, 207
    • soda water, 251
    • Porter, origin of its name, 121
    • adulteration of with wormwood, 132
    • act prohibiting it, 113
    • average strength of, as furnished to the publican, 126
    • ditto, as sent out by the retailers, 127
    • illegal substances for adulterating it, 131
    • brewers, convicted of adulterating their porter with illegal ingredients, 151
    • Porter, frothy head of, how produced, 133
    • method of ascertaining the strength of different kinds, 160
    • quantity of alcohol contained in London porter, 162
    • Port wine, adulteration of, 74
    • Publicans, prosecuted for adulterating their strong beer with table beer, 129

  • Q
    • Quassia, fraudulent substitution of, for hops, 131
    • disadvantages of its application, 132
    • seizures of, at various breweries, 137

  • R
    • Raisin wine, quantity of brandy which it contains, 94
    • Rum, adulteration of, 187
    • false strength, how given to it, 202
    • is seizable, if sold, unless of a certain strength, 189
    • quantity of alcohol contained in it, 205

  • S
    • Soda Water, poisonous, and method of detecting it, 251
    • Spiritous Liquors, adulteration of, 187
    • dangerous practice of fining them with noxious ingredients, 202
    • quantity of alcohol contained in different kinds, 205
    • Sweetmeats, adulteration of, 224
    • Sweet-brier, use of it for flavouring wines, 75

  • T
    • Tarts of fruits, should not be baked in earthenware vessels glazed with lead, 258
    • Tea leaves, adulteration of, 171
    • method of detecting it, 171
    • law in force against it, 163
    • poisonous sophistication of, 173
    • method of detecting it, 174
    • coloring of, with verdigris, 168
    • black, spurious, process of manufacturing it, 168
    • green, imitation of, 169
    • Tea dealers, convicted for selling adulterated tea, 169
    • Toys, improper practice of painting them with poisonous colours, 259

  • V
    • Vidonia, quantity of brandy contained in it, 95
    • Vin de Grave,          ditto       ditto, 95
    • Vinegar, adulteration of, and method of detecting it, 220
    • distilled, and method of ascertaining its strength, 221

  • W
    • Water, characters of good, 37
    • chemical constitution of those used in domestic economy and the arts, 33
    • danger of keeping it in leaden reservoirs, 60
    • hard, how softened and rendered fit for washing, 39
    • New River, constitution of, 38, 45
    • substances contained in potable, 48
    • how detected, 50
    • substances usually contained in spring, 42
    • taste and salubrious quality, to what owing, 33
    • Thames, constitution of, 46, 48
    • Wine, adulteration of with alum, 74
    • British port, 77
    • champaigne, 77
    • bottles, improper practice of cleaning them, 85
    • bottle corks, practice of staining them red, 79
    • Wine doctors, 80
    • quantity of alcohol contained in various kinds, 94, 95
    • dangerous practice of fining them, 83
    • to prevent them turning sour, 84
    • art of flavouring them, 75
    • home-made, chemical constitution of, 96
    • improvement from age, to what owing, 91
    • Southampton port, 78
    • strength of, on what it depends, 92
    • specific differences of different kinds, to what owing, 89
    • test, 86
    • white, manufacture of, from red grapes, 90
    • Whiskey, Irish, flavour, to what owing, 197
    • strength of, 205
    • Scotch, ditto, 205
    • Wormwood, substitution of, for hops, 132

THE END.