The WEST-INDIES.
For a general Idea of the West-Indies, we may understand by that Term, all the Continent, Sea, and Islands, from Terra Firma to Florida, or from near the Equinoctial to 28°° of N. Latitude; and if you include Bermudas, to 32°°. The main Land in this Circuit divided into Spanish Provinces, is more peculiarly called the Spanish West-Indies, they possessing all, unless to the Southward in Guiana and Paria, where there are a few English, Dutch, and French, interspersed on the Rivers and Coast of Oronoko, Surinam, and Amazons.
They import hence to Europe, besides Rum and Sugars, great quantities of Cocoa, Indigo, Cotton, Logwood, Ginger, Lignum-vitæ, Cochineel, Snuff, Cassia, Aloes, Pimento, Tortoise-shell, Dyers, and other Wood, a Variety of Drugs, and above all, prodigious Quantities of Plate, and some Gold.
The Islands in this Sea are the Charibbees, Sotovento, Antilles, and Bahama.
Charibbees were the lesser Antilles, about 30 in number, whereof the French have Martinico, St. Lucia, Bartholomew, Deseada, Granada, Marigalant, Guadalupe, and Santa Cruz. To the Dutch belong in whole or part, Saba, Eustatia, St. Vincent, and Tobago, or Tobacco Island; so called, from the Plenty of that Weed there, or the Weed so called, as first transplanted thence. The rest are English, and of them Barbados is chief. Others next of Note are Antegoa, Nevis, St. Christopher’s, and Montserrat; which have a separate Governor, stiled General of the Leeward Islands, their principal Produce with us, is Rum and Sugars; but the French, besides these, cultivate Cocoa, and Indigo: and as the managing of more Lands naturally gives Plenty, and makes room for an Increase of People, the French Policy of late years has considerably increased their Colonies at Martinico and Hispaniola; some say 40000 settled there at the French King’s Expence, with the Addition of a year’s Maintenance, to countenance their Mississipi Settlements, and these further Views of drawing over Men’s Affections, by affording Europeans the West-India Commodities, at the cheapest rate, and strengthning themselves against the Resentment of any who dislike it.
In some are found large Caves that run half a Mile under ground, supposed the Dwelling-places of the old Natives, who quickly forsook them to the new Inmates; tho’ Dampier says, he met some of these Charibbees at St. Lucia, and St. Vincent, and others say the like of Curasao: The Name imports Cannibals, an Inhumanity charged on them at the Discovery, as a proper Accusation for Dispossessors.
Sotovento Isles lie E S E. and W N W. along the Terra Firma, called so because the Spaniards in their Voyages to Mexico, make them one after another sub vento (to Leeward.) Of these, the Dutch have Curasao, Oruba, and Berraire. The Spaniard the others, (La Trinidad, and Margarita, chief;) from whence, and the Antilles, they have of late years very much infested this Navigation, with their Guard le Costas, confiscating the English Effects in Reprisal, it is supposed, for the Loss of their Fleet near Messina, 1718.
The greater Antilles are, Cuba, Hispaniola, Portorico, and Jamaica; the three former, Spanish.
Cuba is principal; a very pleasant and flourishing Island, the Spaniard building and improving for Posterity, without dreaming, as the English Planters do, of any other Home. They make the best Sugars in the West-Indies. It was from this Island, (Velasquez Governor,) that Cortez in 1518, made his Expedition and Conquest of Mexico.
The Havana, its chief Port and Town, is esteemed the richest in America; for besides its own valuable Produce, the Spanish Fleets from all parts on the Main, make up here in their return to Europe.
The Islands on the South Side of it, and the Camaines, are resorted to for the largest and best Turtle.
Porto-Rico, and Hispaniola (the diminutive of Hispania) are Islands we make, in our Passage to Jamaica, famous of late for their Guard le Costas. These Privateering Fellows, when they are not acting by lawful Commission, they know the Governor’s Mind, and bring in Ships on a pretence they are trading with the King of Spain’s Subjects in a clandestine and prohibited manner; if they find any Pieces of Eight, it is a Condemnation; an Encouragement in searching a Ship, to deposite some there themselves: Or if this Trick fails, they are yet detained, and on various Pretences lengthned out with Law-suits, till ruined. We called, after weighing from Barbados, at Sancto Domingo, the chief Town of Hispaniola, where we found three English Masters of Ships under these Hardships. They had got the better in Law, but with such Charge and Delay, that it had spoiled their Ships and Voyages; and lest that should not do it effectually, their Damages are against the Captains of the Privateers, who are perhaps the Governor’s servile Dependants, and not worth a Groat.
Sancto Domingo Harbour has 15 Fathom Water at the Bar, and the Entrance defended by several Batteries. The Town is the Residence of an Arch-Bishop, and a President from Spain, who lives in a House that is said to have been built and occupied by Christopher Columbus himself. To this Officer (on account of its prior Settlement) Appeals come from all the Spanish West-India Islands, whose Sentence is definitive, unless called by a particular Commission to Old Spain. They buy their Places, it seems, and consequently execute them oppressively.
The Island is diminished of its Inhabitants, for this, or a securer and better Settlement on the Continent; so that the French now, about Petit Guavas, equal, if not outnumber them, tho’ both together are vastly short of what its Extent and Fertility deserves. A Soil that produces any thing; their Sea and Rivers full of Fish, and the Country spread with Forests of Cabbage and Palm-Trees, in which are prodigious Numbers of wild Hog and Beef, which the Hunters of different Nations at certain Seasons shoot, the latter for their Hides; and the Pork, they jerk (as they call it) that is, strip it from the Bones, and then salting the Flesh a little, dry it in the Sun.
Bahamas, so called from the Principal, or Lucayes from Lucayone (new Providence, the largest of them) where the English have a Governor: They are noted for a dangerous and rapid Chanel, commonly called the Gulph of Florida, through which the Spanish Fleets always take their Passage to Europe, and are frequently shipwrecked.
The Pyrates often take their rise here, or if not, seldom fail in the Course of their Adventures to visit these Seas. There are Multitudes of little Islands and Kays, besides this Division above, that afford Refreshments of wild Hog, Cow, Goat, Sheep, Parrots, Guanas, Turtle, and Fish; many of them uninhabited, and seldom visited but on that account, whereby they are a natural and good Security. The Sailor, when he would express the Intricacy of any Path-way, stiling it the Caribbees.
They commonly make their Beginning here after this manner; when any Spanish Ship is wrecked in Florida, the Jamaicans fit out Vessels to fish upon her, (the best I believe, being always pleas’d with going shares in such Voyages, which may be judged of by their Treatment of the Galleon cast away on Jamaica, a very few Years ago) and dispute a Right of Plunder with the Spaniard himself, who is also fitted from the Havana on these Accidents, to recover what they can; the Contest therefore is with various Fortune, and sometimes turns to a bad account.
Our Logwood-Cutters from Campechy and Honduras, who have been unfortunate by the frequent Visits of the Spaniards to destroy that Trade, remove hither, or those to them, to consult of Reparations to their broken Fortunes. Saunterers also, who are turtling from different Parts, do all together make a considerable Resort sometimes, and being prompted to Revenge for the Injuries sustained, they combine and furnish out a little Sloop perhaps against them at first, who finding little come by confining their Ways and Means to the Spaniards only, who sail in Fleets, they fall at last on any Nation; the Transition being easy from a Buccanier to a Pyrate; from plundering for others, to do it for themselves.
These Logwood-Cutters, (since mentioned) I must observe, were originally settled at the Bay of Campechy, but with a contested Right that made it hazardous, the Spaniard opposing the Legality, and when uppermost, treating them as Pyrates, which our People have frequently returned again with Interest. It was taken 1659, by Sir Christopher Mins. In 1678 again, by the English and French Privateers; and what Licence the Peace of Utrecht gave, I am uncertain, but they are since drove out, and now support themselves with their Arms at the Bay of Honduras.
They are about 500 (Merchants and Slaves,) and have taken up their Residence at a Place called Barcaderas, about 40 Miles up a narrow River full of Alligators; and what is a greater Inconvenience against transporting their Effects, is a strong Current in it from the Freshes up Land, and the Banks being covered with Shrubs, that makes it difficult to walk and tow the Boats; covered also with infinite Numbers of Sand-Flies, and Muskitos. They live in Pavilions; a Servant at their time of lying down to rest, shaking them till cleared of these Vermin, that are an unsufferable Plague and Impediment to Sleep.
At the Season (once a year) they move their Pavilions from the pleasurable Spots, the better to attend the Logwood cutting, which carries them sometimes many Miles from this principal Residence, to follow the Wood, which runs in a Line or Vein (like Minerals in the Earth) of some Miles perhaps, and then as many, without a Stick of it. They cut it into large Pieces, and leave it on the Ground till the Land-Flood favours their bringing it into the River, and then Canoos are laden away with it, to lay in store at Barcaderas, where the Chief are still left residing.
They have all good Arms, and knowing the Spanish Clemency, defend themselves desperately, if attacked; which has happened seldomer than at Campechy, and always by Sea.
A Servant, which is the first Step with Seamen into the Trade, is hired at a Tun of Logwood per Month, and has one Day in seven for himself, making together about 10l. a Month to him; hence, if thoughtful and sober, they in time become Masters, join Stock, and trade independently. They have a King, chose from among their Body, and his Consort is stiled Queen, agreeing to some Laws by common Consent, as a Guide to them.
The Ships that come into the Bay, are on their Guard also, fetch it down in flat-bottomed Boats, each Crew being allowed on the Voyage, a Bottle of Rum and some Sugar, and row generally in the Night, as freest from those stinging Flies, and rest in the Day.
The Exchange with Ships is for Money, Beer, Flower, or any sort of Provisions and Necessaries; these, the cunningest reserve in Store against the Wants and Demands of the Inconsiderate, and so make extraordinary Returns.
It may not be improper to conclude this Head with an Observation or two on the Channel and Current of Florida, which I submit to the more Skilful.
This Gulph is as dangerous a Navigation as any known; the Spaniards often experience it, because it’s an Addition to the Danger, that they have unwieldy Ships, and lubberly Seamen. We commit Errors, I imagine, by our common Charts, which lay down the Channel double the Breadth it is; the most intelligent in the Passage having assured me, it is not above 16 or 18 Leagues over; and therefore when a Storm happens, build on a false Supposition.
The Spaniard is likewise over-careful to be safe; the nicer Observations made on Shoals, Currents, or Winds, either here or in the Bay, when and how to make them advantageous, are from an imagined Security against any maritime Power, committed only to their Admiral (according to common Report) whose Light the Fleet are to follow; and for their better Recovery of any shipwrecked Cargo in the Gulph, (frequent in losing the Admiral,) they have a Garrison at St. Augustine, on the Florida Shore, a barren Spot where they are almost starved, and which would not be worth keeping but for this. Ships and Vessels may, and often have sailed through this Channel from the N End to Cuba, or the Bay of Mexico, notwithstanding the common Opinion, on account of the Current, that is against it. They keep the Bahama shore aboard, Shoals of a great Extent, sprinkled with rocky Islands so low, there is very little Safety to those unhappy Men who are cast away upon them; yet at several, there are anchoring Places, and fresh Water found.
They meet the Wind in Summer, for the greatest part of the Channel, Easterly; which with a counter Current in shore, pushes them through easily; much the better way for any sudden Attack upon the Havana (a glorious Attempt in time of War) because they cannot discover you, like as in the other Path from Jamaica, where by Beacons, they can gain an Intelligence of 150 Leagues in a very short Space of time, and so be the better prepared.
In order to the laying down my Sentiment on the Florida Current, I shall premise the Facts and Observations of our Pilots in relation to this Gulph, and that of Mexico, which have a Dependency as to the Cause of it, with each other.
1. This Stream goes constantly out to the Northward in mid Channel, its Force having some respect (like Tides in other Channels) to the Moon and to the Winds; with a counter Current, or at least a Stillness of the Water in shore, that will enable a Ship to turn through, be the middle Stream never so strong; the same as in the Strait of Gibraltar, where tho’ the Current is continually into the Mediterranean, Ships may work through, keeping the Shore aboard.
2. The Current which goes out here, sets for the most part into the Gulph of Mexico, between the two Capes of Corientes and Catoche, with counter Currents in shore; tho’ not always so, the Pilots having observed them strong to the East, new, and full Moons.
3. As to the Bay of Mexico it self, there are every where Currents round it various and uncertain, as to the Point they run on, or time of Continuance, especially on the Apalachian Side where it is safest stopping in the Night, and up Anchor only, in the Day. That these Currents are less discernible the farther from shore, and for the most part, bend to the Trend of the Lands; that is, when you have rounded Cape Catoche, it sets Westward, open with Campechy Bay to the Southward: From Vera Cruz in 19°° to the Latitude of 28°° it runs to the Northward, and thence round the Bay to the Eastward; more perceptible, I say, the nearer shore, because bounded, and makes the Tides in the Rivers.
4. The Rivers of Georgia, and Carolina (next Coast to Florida Northward) have as regular Tides as the Thames. So again, in the Bay of Honduras Southward, whose Reflux, it must be taken notice, makes a Northern Current.
Now to sum up all, in order to account for the Current of Florida, which seems to me only this, that more of the Flood is propagated into the Bay of Mexico, by that Passage made from the West End of Cuba, and Shore of Yucatan; and more of the Ebb by the Chanel of Florida, and for these Reasons.
The Gulph of Mexico receives many and large Rivers, whose Mouths together carry some proportion with the Chanel of Florida; and consider’d as a little Mediterranean Sea, the Flood in it must have a more remarkable and strong Ebb: which shews it self rather here, first, because the Make of the Lands gives a freer Opening and Tendency of the Waters that way. Second, The Length and Contraction of the Channel, makes it more visible and constant, and is the Continuance of those River-Streams (that disembogue in the Bay) even till it meets with the Tide to the Northward, which checks, like as at them, and produces a counter Current along shore: for we may observe, that altho’ the Current goes constantly out in the Channel, yet at the Isle of Providence contiguous to it almost, the Tides are alternate and regular. Third, The Winds at East are more favourable to the Exit than the Trade, which sets in directly at the other Passage, and while it helps the Flood there, is at the same time an Obstacle to its Return; to which assists also that Northern Current from the Bay of Honduras; nor will it be so perceptible there, because what Reflux is, opens to a wider Sea immediately, and probably had been the same at Florida, if the Gulph of Mexico had open’d without such Restraint to the main Ocean directly.
On this Supposition, the Variety and Uncertainty of Currents in the Bay, and the greater or less Rapidity in the Chanel, will depend much on the Winds without; and as they are dry or wet Seasons at Land, new and full Moons should influence the Strength of the Stream; and hard Gales concurring at N. or N E. among the Bahamas, should slacken it there, and promote an Eastern Current at the other Passage.