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A Wanderer in Holland

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About This Book

A series of travel essays that move through Dutch cities, towns and countryside, combining itinerary and impression. The writer records visits to canals, markets, beaches, museums and galleries, offering vivid portraiture of urban scenes, rural landscapes and local customs. Extended reflections on paintings and painters sit alongside anecdotal sightings of wildlife, street life and provincial characters, while market days, cheese fairs and seaside resorts receive descriptive attention. The narrative balances informed art commentary with light humor and personal observation to convey the visual culture, architecture and everyday rhythms of the places explored.

Elizabeth Bas

Rembrandt

From the picture in the Ryks Museum

“Observing De Ryk, a distinguished partisan officer and privateersman of Amsterdam, whose reputation for bravery and generosity was known to him, he approached him, and drawing a seal ring from his finger kissed it, and handed it to the rebel chieftain. By this dumb-show he gave him to Page 299understand that he relied upon his honor for the treatment due to a gentleman. De Ryk understood the appeal, and would willingly have assured him, at least, a soldier’s death, but he was powerless to do so. He arrested him, that he might be protected from the fury of the rabble; but Treslong, who now commanded in Flushing, was especially incensed against the founder of the Antwerp citadel, and felt a ferocious desire to avenge his brother’s murder upon the body of his destroyer’s favourite.

“Pacheco was condemned to be hanged upon the very day of his arrival. Having been brought forth from his prison, he begged hard but not abjectly for his life. He offered a heavy ransom, but his enemies were greedy for blood, not for money. It was, however, difficult to find an executioner. The city hangman was absent, and the prejudice of the country and the age against the vile profession had assuredly not been diminished during the five horrible years of Alva’s administration. Even a condemned murderer, who lay in the town gaol, refused to accept his life in recompence for performing the office. It should never be said, he observed, that his mother had given birth to a hangman. When told, however, that the intended victim was a Spanish officer, the malefactor consented to the task with alacrity, on condition that he might afterwards kill any man who taunted him with the deed.

“Arrived at the foot of the gallows, Pacheco complained bitterly of the disgraceful death designed for him. He protested loudly that he came of a house as noble as that of Egmont or Hoorn, and was entitled to as honourable an execution as theirs had been. ‘The sword! the sword!’ he frantically exclaimed, as he struggled with those who guarded him. His language was not understood, but the name of Egmont and Hoorn inflamed still more highly the Page 300rage of the rabble, while his cry for the sword was falsely interpreted by a rude fellow who had happened to possess himself of Pacheco’s rapier, at his capture, and who now paraded himself with it at the gallows foot. ‘Never fear for your sword, Señor,’ cried this ruffian; ‘your sword is safe enough, and in good hands. Up the ladder with you, Señor; you have no further use for your sword.’ Pacheco, thus outraged, submitted to his fate. He mounted the ladder with a steady step, and was hanged between two other Spanish officers.

“So perished miserably a brave soldier, and one of the most distinguished engineers of his time; a man whose character and accomplishments had certainly merited for him a better fate. But while we stigmatize as it deserves the atrocious conduct of a few Netherland partisans, we should remember who first unchained the demon of international hatred in this unhappy land, nor should it ever be forgotten that the great leader of the revolt, by word, proclamation, example, by entreaties, threats, and condign punishment, constantly rebuked and, to a certain extent, restrained the sanguinary spirit by which some of his followers disgraced the noble cause which they had espoused.”

Flushing’s hero is De Ruyter, whose rope-walk wheel we saw at Middelburg, and whose truculent lineaments have so often frowned at us from the walls of picture gallery and stadhuis throughout the country—almost without exception from the hand of Ferdinand Bol, or a copyist.

Scratch a sea-dog and you find a pirate; De Ruyter, who stands in stone for all time by Flushing harbour, lacking the warranty of war would have been a Paul Jones beyond eulogy. You can see it in his strong brows, his determined mouth, his every line. It is only two hundred and thirty-seven years, only seven generations, since he was Page 301in the Thames with his fleet, and London was panic-stricken. No enemy has been there since. The English had their revenge in 1809, when they bombarded Flushing and reduced it to only a semblance of what it had been. Among the beautiful buildings which our cannon balls destroyed was the ancient stadhuis. Hence it is that Flushing’s stadhuis to-day is a mere recent upstart.

Flushing does little to amuse its visitors after the sun has left the sea; and we were very glad of the excuse offered by the Middelburg kermis to return to our inland city each afternoon. The Middelburg kermis is a particularly merry one. The stalls and roundabouts fill the market square before the stadhuis, packed so closely that the revolving horses nearly carry the poffertje restaurants round with them. The Dutch roundabouts, by the way, still, like the English, retain horses: they have not, like the French, as I noticed at three fairs in and about Paris last autumn, taken to pigs and rabbits.

I examined the Middelburg kermis very thoroughly. Few though the exhibits were, they included two fat women. Their booths stood on opposite sides of the square, all the fun of the fair between them. In the west was Mile. Jeanne; in the east the Princess Sexiena. Jeanne was French, Sexiena came from the Fatherland. Both, though rivals, used the same poster: a picture of a lady, enormous, décolletée, highly-coloured, stepping into a fiacre, to the cocher’s intense alarm. Before one inspected the rival giantesses this community of advertisement had seemed to be a mistake; after, its absurdity was only too apparent, for although the Princess was colossal, Mile. Jeanae was more so. Mile. Jeanne should therefore have employed an artist to make an independent allurement.

Both also displayed outside the booths a pair of corsets, Page 302but here, I fancy, the advantage was with Mlle. Jeanne, although such were the distractions of the square that it was difficult to keep relative sizes in mind as one crossed it.

We visited the Princess first and found her large enough. She gasped on a dais—it was the hottest week of the year. She was happy, she said, except in such warmth. She was not married: Princes had sighed for her in vain. She rode a bicycle, she assured us, and enjoyment in the incredulity of her hearers was evidently one of her pleasures. Her manager listened impatiently, for our conversation interrupted his routine; he then took his oath that she was not padded, and bade her exhibit her leg. She did so, and it was like the mast of a ship.

I dropped five cents into her plate and passed on to Mlle. Jeanne. The Princess had been large enough; Mlle. Jeanne was larger. She wore her panoply of flesh less like a flower than did her rival. Her expression was less placid; she panted distressfully as she fanned her bulk. But in conversation she relaxed. She too was happy, except in such heat. She neither rode a bicycle nor walked—save two or three steps. As her name indicated, she too was unmarried, although, her manager interjected, few wives could make a better omelette. But men are cowards, and such fortresses very formidable.

As we talked, the manager, who had entered the booth as blasé an entrepreneur as the Continent holds, showed signs of animation. In time he grew almost enthusiastic and patted Mlle.’s arms with pride. He assisted her to exhibit her leg quite as though its glories were also his. The Princess’s leg had been like the mast of a ship; this was like the trunk of a Burnham beech.

And here, at Flushing, we leave the country. I should Page 303have liked to have steamed down the Scheldt to Antwerp on one of the ships that continually pass, if only to be once more among the friendly francs with their noticeable purchasing power, and to saunter again through the Plantin Museum among the ghosts of old printers, and to stand for a while in the Museum before Van Eyck’s delicious drawing of Saint Barbara. But it must not be. This is not a Belgian book, but a Dutch book; and here it ends.

Index

A

Aanspreker, The, 10

Aertz, Jan Terween, 36

A Kempis, Thomas, 103, 254

Alkmaar, 206213, 266

Alva, Duke of, 140, 141, 210, 258, 297

Amsterdam, 153183, 185, 261

Anabaptists, 113

Antwerp, 303

Arminians, 37

Arnheim, 261268

B

Baerle, Van, 266, 268

Barbizon Painters, 68, 7072, 180

Barges, 5, 6, 231

Barneveldt, 38, 7275

Beckford, William, quoted, 121

Beggars of the Sea, 297

Begijnen, The, 164

Belloc, Mr. Hilaire, quoted, 61

Bells, 61, 166, 289

Berchem, Nicolas, 148

Bergen-op-Zoom, 42, 204, 283

Berlikum, 248

Bilderdyk, 269

Binnenhof, The, 72

Biographical Memoirs of Extraordinary Painters. 121

Bol, Ferdinand, 13, 35

Bolsward, 232

Bommel, 280

Boompoel, The, 249

Bos, Mr., 242

Bosboom, Johannes, 14, 69

Bosch, The, 80

Boxum, 248

Boymans Museum, 13

Breda, 281

Breitner, G.H., 36, 158

Brill, 297

Broek, 197

Brouwer, Adrian, 70, 148

C

Canals, 2, 5, 6, 154

Cats, Jacob, 8590, 267

Chambers of Rhetoric, 263

Charlemagne’s Prayer, 278

Charles V., 295

Cheese, 207

Christening Customs, 227

Coen, Jan Pieters, 215

Colloquia Peripatetica, 103

Congress of Dort, 3637

Corbeille, Mr., quoted, 45

Cornellissen, Jan, 201

Corot, 71, 181

Coryate, Thomas, 84

Cuyp, Albert, 13, 33, 44, 240

D

Dam, The, 159

Darnley, Lord, 219

Davies quoted, 37, 38, 73, 75, 163

Death, 10

De Bossu, 215

De Hooch, Peter, 12, 179, 182

Dekker, Edward Douwes, 169

Delft, 4862

De Ruyter, 218, 219, 291, 300

De Sonoy, 215

Deventer, 254

De Witt, Cornelius, 39, 75

— — John,75

Diaz, 71 Page 306

Dircksz, Peter, 201

Dirckzoon, Cornelius, 199, 216

Dobson, Mr. Austin, quoted, 86

Doelens, 251

Dogs, 238

Dokkum, 245

Dordrecht, 3040

Dou, Gerard, 118, 122

Dumas, Alexandre, 39, 250

Dutch Architecture, 45

— Books, 79

— Chemists, 11

— Churches, 44, 134, 164

— Civility, 26, 240

— Cleanliness, 5, 282

“— Courage,” 29

— Evening Habits, 79

— Gardening, 129

— Houses, 154, 181, 229

— Inns, 18, 185

— Language, 268, 274

— Love-making, 198, 228

— Manners to strangers, 27, 42, 240

— Morality, 260

— Music Halls, 165

— National Anthem, 279

“— News,” 28

— Painting, 173175, 181

— Phlegm, 199

— Precision, 63

— Railways, 184

— Religion, 21

— Scenery, 2

— Servants, 9

— Steam-trams, 94

— Weddings, 161

— Wives, 162

Dykes, 64, 220, 241

E

Earle, John, 24

Edam, 200

Eisinga, Eisa, 244, 247

Engelbert I., 281

English Schole-Master, The, 24, 269

Enkhuisen, 224

Erasmus, 11, 103, 135, 252

Evelyn, John, quoted, 102

F

Fabritius, 58

Fell, R., quoted, 26, 144, 233

Feltham, Owen, 24, 155

Florin, The, 7

Flushing, 294

Fodor Museum, 183

Franeker, 244

Frederick, Don, 137, 189, 209

Friesland, 229, 235, 245

Frogs, 241

G

George II., 280

Gerard, Balthazar, 50

Gevangenpoort, The, 78

Giantesses, The, 301

Goldsmith, Oliver, 97102

Gomarians, 37

Gorinchem, 4043

Gosse, Mr. Edmund, quoted, 266, 267

Gothamites, 256

Gouda, 18

Goyen, Jan van, 109

Grimston and Redhead, 283

Groningen, 251

Grotius, 41, 55, 293

Guelder, The, (see Florin)

Gutenberg, 136

H

Haarlem, 128152

Hagthorpe, John, 22

Hague, The, 6384

Hals, Dirck, 147

— Frans, 145152, 176

Handel, 144

Haring, John, 215, 217

Harlingen, 242

Hasselaer, Kenau, 143

Havard, Henri, quoted, 59, 171, 221, 224, 227, 242, 257, 291

Heemstra, Van, 231

Helder, The, 220

Helst, Bartholomew van der, 147, 176

Helvoet, 280

Heranguière, 281

Hertzogenbosch, 279

Heyden, Van der, 43

Hillegom, 128

Hilversum, 10, 186

Hindeloopen, 229 Page 307

Hobbema, 13

Hoboken, Mr. Van, 16

Hogarth, 112

Hooch, Peter de (see De Hooch)

Hood, Thomas, 17, 264

Hooft, Peter Cornellissen, 194

Hook of Holland, 1

Hoorn, 213220

Hortensius, 192

Hotel Porters, 222

Howell, James, 82

Huilebalk, The, 10

Huizen, 188

Huyghens, Constantin, 85, 265