A woman's hardy garden

Bordeaux mixture is to be used for rust, mildew, and all kinds of blight, whenever the leaves of plants have a tendency to turn black. Hollyhocks seem to be universally attacked by rust. Spraying the plants at the end of April, and again in the middle of May, should entirely prevent this. I have found that Bordeaux mixture prevents the leaves of Monkshood from turning black and falling off, if the plants are well sprayed with it about the middle of June and the first of July.

Phloxes grown in rather shady places will, in damp weather, fall victims to mildew on the leaves. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture the end of June and middle of July should prevent this. Roses also have a tendency in warm, damp weather to mildew, which can be prevented by spraying the plants with Bordeaux mixture.

Kerosene emulsion may also be prepared, and is excellent for killing, both the small green aphids that often cover the leaves of Roses, and other hard, scaly insects. Following is the receipe:

Put one cake of laundry soap shaved fine into one gallon of water. When dissolved, add two gallons of kerosene oil. This makes the emulsion.

For spraying, use one quart of the emulsion in fourteen quarts of water. Be sure that this is very thoroughly mixed before filling the sprayer.

Powdered hellebore, if dissolved in the proportion of one pound of powder to one gallon of water, will destroy both the green worm on the Rose leaf and the small dark beetle that eats the Roses. It will also dispose of green worms on other plants.

Slug-shot dissolved, one-half pound of powder to one gallon of water, will, if used the latter part of April and several times in May, keep the Roses comparatively free from insects. Slug-shot and hellebore may also be used dry and blown on to the plants with a bellows.

I have used Hellebore in my garden for many years without harm to anything except the worms and beetles. But recently I heard of a lady who was severely poisoned in using dry Hellebore. The wind blew it into her face; perhaps some was inhaled, and serious illness resulted. I mention the fact here, to caution all who use it not to let either the spray or the powder come in contact with the skin. Some persons may be susceptible to the poison while others are not,—presenting a case of what the doctors call an “idiosyncrasy.”

Paris green, mixed in the proportion of two tablespoonfuls to three quarts of water and used as a spray, will destroy a beetle that sometimes appears upon the Gourd vines.

Tobacco water will kill the black aphids which appear on the stems and leaves of hardy Chrysanthemums. It will also kill green aphids. This spray is made by filling an ordinary pail lightly, not pressed down, with tobacco stems. Pour as much cold water into the pail as it will hold; let it stand for three hours, when it is ready to use in the spraying machine. This mixture will be good for only twenty-four hours.

Tobacco spray will also destroy the large red aphid (I call it this for want of, perhaps, the proper name) that has recently appeared in some localities upon the stems of the Rudbeckia (Golden Glow) and of the single hardy Sunflower, just below the blossom.

The enemy of the Box is the white spider. The insect spins its web on the Box and works from the inside. If the branches are pulled aside, the inside of the plant will be found full of dead leaves in the vicinity of the web. Recently I read in a well-known gardening monthly, that this spider could be destroyed by spraying with kerosene emulsion. I have some fine Box trees, and there were several white spider-webs on each. Watering with a very strong force of water had been tried without effect. Upon reading the article in the monthly and finding that the spider was certainly causing disaster which might be fatal, I proceeded to have the trees sprayed with kerosene emulsion, using it of the same strength as for Roses. In fact, the sprayer was not re-filled, as there was enough left in it since last using it on the Roses. About three days after the Box had been sprayed, large, unsightly brown patches appeared on the trees, showing that the emulsion had killed the leaves wherever it touched them. The spider was not harmed.

I mention this experience as an example of the danger of taking all the directions found in horticultural publications as gospel truth. Nor should an amateur gardener ever be tempted to trifle with plant medicines. I have a certain friend whose affection for her Roses is more profound than her knowledge of how to treat their natural diseases. Observing last summer that one of her most cherished Crimson Ramblers was covered with aphids, she concluded to spray it with “something.” A bottle of carbolic acid being most available, she tested its merits at once. The efficacy of carbolic acid as a poison was proved beyond a doubt, for the insects became singularly dead in a day or two, and so did the leaves; they fell off together. There was nothing left but the forlorn stems and branches, looking like some freak of the vegetable kingdom.

TOOL-ROOM

It is of the greatest importance to have a tool-room or closet according to the size of the place, and to require all implements to be kept there when not in actual use. There should be shelves across one end or side, where shears, trowels, garden cord, clippers, watering-cans, mallet, various mixtures for spraying, oil-cans, keys for turning on the water, twine and all the smaller things one uses, may be found at a moment’s notice. Garden sticks painted green, in three sizes, three and a half and four feet long, and five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and thicker ones an inch in diameter for Dahlias, should be kept on hand in barrels. They can be bought of lumber-dealers in New York, where they are known as “dowels.” They come in bundles of one hundred, costing from sixty cents to a dollar and twenty-five cents a bundle, according to size, unpainted, and the men can paint them on rainy days. The lawn mowers and the roller (which should be a heavy one) can also be kept in the tool-room. Rakes, both iron and wooden, hoes, spades and shovels, the latter both long-handled and short-handled, are best kept hung up along one side of the closet, where the men can see at a glance what they want.

There should also be a pickaxe and a crowbar for taking out refractory stones, and, most necessary of all things in a garden, the wheelbarrow should be kept here, too. A sickle and a scythe must not be forgotten.

If the garden is large, a two-wheel tip-cart will prove a great saver of labor in carting manure and soil and in the removal of debris.

On a particular shelf in my tool-room I keep my private trowel and flower scissors, to which are attached long red ribbons as a warning of “Hands off!” to others. There is also a clipper which I often use in walking about to trim a bit here and there from a shrub or a climbing Rose.

If a scrap-book be kept, in which everything of interest pertaining to the garden can be pasted or written, it will be found a great help. In this way items about fertilizers, insecticides, special treatment of plants, with copies of lists ordered, can be preserved, and also, most interesting of all, notes of when the different plants bloom each year. I find the following under date of October 18, 1901:

“To-day, though ice has formed three times, I have filled nineteen vases with flowers. They are Phlox, Larkspur, Monkshood, Salvia, Nasturtium, Roses, Mignonette and Chrysanthemums.”

After trying many kinds of gloves for gardening, including the rubber ones, I now use only old Suede gloves; they give sufficient covering and permit more freedom of movement to the hands and fingers than those of heavier material. It would be quite impossible to transplant tiny seedlings while wearing gloves with clumsy finger-tips.

Unless a woman possesses a skin impervious to wind and sun, she is apt to come through the summer looking as red and brown as an Indian; and if one is often out in the glare, about the only headgear that can be worn to prevent this, is the old-fashioned sunbonnet. With its poke before and cape behind, protecting the neck, one really cannot become sunburned, and pink ones are not so bad. Retired behind its friendly shelter, you are somewhat deaf to the world; and at the distant house, people may shout to you and bells be rung at you, and, if your occupation be engrossing, the excuse “no one can hear through a sunbonnet,” must be accepted.

CONCLUSION

CHAPTER XVI

CONCLUSION

The character of professional gardeners seems to be changing. They have become more perfunctory, more stubborn, more opinionated, until now it is a really serious question with them of “the danger of a little knowledge.” To find a man who combines sobriety and a good disposition with a fair knowledge of his business and a real liking for it, is a difficult matter. Where but one man is kept to care for vegetables, flowers and lawn, he is more than likely to have little interest beyond potatoes or corn, or to be good at raising small fruits, and to consider everything else he has to do as so much waste of time. When first married, one of our gardeners was a German who took no interest in flowers, and planted half the vegetable garden with “kohlrabi” and “korn salad.” We had never heard of these delicacies before, and did not care for them. I remember also his telling me that one kind of flower was enough to raise anyway.

If a young man with an elementary knowledge of gardening can be found, who wants to learn, is strong, willing and intelligent, it is better to supply most of the brains yourself. You will find your own wishes more apt to be carried out than by the gardener who “knows it all,” and seems to resent what he calls “interference” on the part of his employer.

I remember, when a child, seeing my father’s gardener walking about in the early evening after his supper, smoking a meditative pipe, tying up Roses or spraying plants, and often setting out seedlings after sundown. He was never idle; he loved his work and attended to it. But now it is rare indeed to see a gardener, after hours, going about his work; autre temps autres mœurs.

Remember always that it is the overcoming of the difficulties in the gardener’s way, the determination to succeed, that gives zest to the occupation. Did everything planted grow and flourish, gardening would be too tame. Rust and blight, cutworms, rose-beetles and weeds, afford the element of sport so attractive to us all. A lesson must be learned from every failure; with renewed patience persevere until success is reached.

I would make the strongest plea in favor of a garden to all those who are so fortunate as to possess any land at all. The relaxation from care and toil and the benefit to health are great, beyond belief, to those who may have to work with head or hands. If you can snatch a few minutes in early morning or late afternoon, to spend among the plants, life takes on a new aspect, health is improved, care is dissipated, and you get nearer to Nature, as God intended.

If the rich and fashionable women of this country took more interest and spent more time in their gardens, and less in frivolity, fewer would suffer from nervous prostration, and the necessity for the multitude of sanitariums would be avoided.

Flower gardening is preëminently a woman’s occupation and diversion. Nearly every great lady in England takes a personal interest in her gardens and conservatories, and knows all about the plants and flowers. Here, the majority of women having large places leave the direction of the flowers, as well as the vegetables and fruit, to the taste and discretion of the gardener, and thus miss a great and healthful pleasure.

As a rule, young people do not care for gardening. They lack the necessary patience and perseverance. But in the years of middle life, when one’s sun is slowly setting and interest in the world and society relaxes, the garden, with its changing bloom, grows ever dearer.

INDEX

• Aconitum Napellus, 110.
• Altheas, 160.
• Ampelopsis Veitchii, 25.
• Anemone Japonica alba, difficulty with, 61.
• Annuals—
• List, with height, colour and period of blooming, 88.
• Sowing, 78, 80.
• Transplanting, 86.
• [See also names of flowers.]
• Antirrhinum, sowing, 80.
• Aquilegias, see Columbines.
• Asters—
• Destruction by beetle, 14, 81.
• Sowing, 80.
• Auratum lily, 139.
• Disappearance of bulb, 139.
• Price, 42.
• Autumn work in garden, 70-72.
• Azalea mollis, perishability of, 13.
• Barberry as hedge, 51, 160.
• Bedding-out plants, 120.
• [See also names of plants.]
• Beds, rule for making, 16.
• Beetle destroying asters, 14, 81.
• Biennials, 117.
• [See also names of flowers.]
• Bone-meal, 73, 74.
• Bordeaux mixture, 190.
• Borders—
• Around house, 29.
• Blooming from May to September, contents of border, 69.
• Planting, 29, 40-44, 67.
• Short path and narrow borders, 68.
• Small plot borders—
• Boundary lines of property, 48-50.
• Cost, 44.
• Planting, 40-44.
• Boston ivy, 25.
• Box, white spider pest, 194.
• Box-edging, 177-178.
• Bulbs, purchasing and planting, 40-44, 149-156.
• Calendula, 81.
• Calycanthus floridus, 160.
• Campanula medium, 117.
• Candytuft, planting, 46.
• Cannas, 48, 120, 122.
• Canterbury bells, 117, 190.
• Cardinal Flower, transplanting, etc., 32.
• Centaurea, see Cornflower.
• Chrysanthemums, 43, 99.
• Clayey soil, lightening, 16.
• Clematis paniculata, 27.
• Climbing roses, 27, 131.
• Columbines, 41.
• Planting, 41.
• Sowing, 93.
• Coreopsis, 98.
• Cornflowers—
• Blooming, etc., 81.
• Planting, 46.
• Cosmos, sowing, 81.
• Cost, see Expense.
• Creepers, see Vines.
• Crocuses, 150.
• Daffodils, 41, 152-154.
• Dahlias, 120, 121.
• Cost, 47.
• Planting, 45.
• Storage, 47, 48.
• Delphiniums, 96.
• Digitalis, 117.
• Double yellow daffodils, 152-154.
• “Dowels,” 197.
• England—
• Gardening seasons, etc., 19.
• Gardens, small plots, 37.
• English ivy, 25.
• Everblooming roses, 127, 134.
• Evergreen shrubs, 167.
• Exchange of plants, 98, 99.
• Expense—
• Border planting, 40-44.
• Front beds, 47.
• Fall work in the garden, 70-72.
• Ferns—
• Border of, 29.
• Maidenhair haunts, 31.
• Planting, 32.
• Transplanting, 32.
• Watering, 173, 174.
• Flowers—
• Annuals, see that title.
• Gathering, extract from English book, 77.
• Perennials, see that title.
• [See also names of flowers.]
• Flower garden—
• Small plots of ground, 23, 37.
• Foxgloves, 117-120.
• France, small plots, 37.
• Front of the house, planting bed, 45.
• Funkia cærulea, 142.
• Funkia subcordata, 142.
• Gaillardias, 104.
• German iris, 104.
• Gladioli, 120, 122, 126.
• Purchasing, 43.
• Storing, 47.
• Gloves for gardening, 198.
• Golden Glow, 46, 47, 111.
• Grandiflora, 98.
• Grass walks, 175-177.
• Graveled walks, 174-175.
• Ground, see Soil.
• Hansoni, 142.
• Hardy roses, 127, 130.
• List of roses blooming in June and September, 133.
• Hedges—
• Beauty of, as fences, 50.
• Preparing ground for, 50.
• Quick screens, 67.
• Varieties, 50-51.
• [See also names, Privet, etc.]
• Hellebore, 192.
• Hemlock spruce, 50.
• Henryi, 27.
• Hibiscus, 98.
• Hollyhocks, 94.
• Planting, 28, 68.
• Seeding, 58.
• House—
• Painting, 25-27.
• Plan of garden to suit style of house, 21.
• Vines, see that title.
• Hyacinths, 40, 154.
• Hybrid perpetual roses, 127.
• List of roses blooming in June and September, 133.
• Hydrangea paniculata, 160.
• Insects and insecticides, 189.
• Asters destroyed by beetle, 14, 81.
• Bordeaux mixture, 190.
• Hellebore, 192.
• Kerosene emulsion, 191.
• Paris green, 192.
• Slug-shot, 192.
• Tobacco water, 193.
• White spider on box, 194.
• Iris, 104, 173, 174.
• Ivy—
• Boston ivy, 25.
• English ivy, 25.
• Jackmani clematis, 27.
• Japanese barberry, 51, 160.
• Japanese iris, 104, 173, 174.
• Japanese lily, 142.
• Japanese tree peonies, 106.
• Japanese vines, planting, 28.
• Kerosene emulsion, 191.
• Laying out a garden—
• Beds in front of vines, 28.
• Borders, see that title.
• North side of house, 29.
• Plan of garden, suiting to style of house, 21.
• Soil, see that title.
• Vines, see that title.
• [See also names of flowers, etc.]
• Lilac, 164.
• Lilies, 139-146.
• Auratum lily, see that title.
• Border planting, 42.
• Planting, etc., 144-146.
• Watering, 173.
• [See also names, Lilium, etc.]
• Lilium auratum, see Auratum lily.
• Lilium Canadense, 142.
• Lilium candidum, 140.
• Lilium longiflorum, 141.
• Lilium speciosum album, 141.
• Lilium speciosum rubrum, 141.
• Lily-of-the-valley, 143.
• London Pride, 110.
• Lychnis, 110.
• Maidenhair fern, haunts of, 31.
• Mai Glöcken, 143.
• Marigolds, 82.
• Meadow lily, 142.
• Monkshood, 110.
• Moonflower, Japanese, 28.
• Morning-glory, Japanese, 28.
• Narcissus, 40, 152.
• Nasturtiums, planting, 79.
• Ordering plants, 65.
• Oriental poppies, 102.
• Painting of house and care of vines, 25-27.
• Pansies, carpeting rose beds with, 84, 126.
• Paris green, 192.
• Peonies, 41, 105.
• Perennial vines and creepers, 167.
• Perennials—
• Development, 52.
• List, with height, colour and time of blooming, 112.
• Planting, 49.
• Raising in seed-bed, 48, 57.
• Seed-bed, see that title.
• Sowing seeds, 59, 93.
• Transplanting, 102.
• [See also names of perennials.]
• Pergola, 183-184.
• Pests, see Insects.
• Philadelphus syringa, 165.
• Phlox, 82, 106, 111.
• Pinks, 102.
• Plan of garden, suiting to style of house, 21.
• Planting, 66-74.
• Borders, 29, 40-44, 67.
• Candytuft, 46.
• Cornflowers, 46.
• Dahlias, 45.
• Fall work, 70-72.
• Ferns, 32.
• Hollyhocks, 28, 68.
• Lilies, 144-146.
• Perennials, 49.
• Roses, 126, 127.
• Rows, 68, 69.
• Small plot, 37-54.
• Starting a garden, 21.
• Transplanting, see that title.
• Plants—
• Exchange, 98, 99.
• Ordering, 65.
• Unpacking, 65.
• Platycodon Mariesi, 96.
• Poeticus narcissus, 40, 152.
• Poppies, 102.
• Sowing, 78-79.
• Privet, purchase, etc., 51.
• Professional gardeners, 13, 203.
• Red-hot poker plant, 104.
• Rhododendrons—
• Planting and care of, 29-31.
• Watering, 173, 174.
• Rockets, 98.
• Roots, purchasing, 40-44.
• Rose of Sharon, 160.
• Roses, 125-135.
• Best roses, list of, 131.
• Budded stock, 126.
• Carpeting rose bed with pansies and gladioli, 84, 126.
• Climbing, 27, 131.
• Everblooming, 127, 134.
• Exclusiveness, 125.
• Hardy, see that title.
• Hybrid Perpetual, see that title.
• List of hybrid perpetual and hardy roses blooming in June and September, 133.
• Planting, 126, 127.
• Replanting and cutting, 127, 130.
• Rudbeckias, 28, 46, 47, 111.
• Salvia, 121.
• Scabiosa Caucasica, 109.
• Scarlet salvia, 121.
• Scrap-book, 198.
• Screens, quick, 67.
• Seed-bed—
• Empty, 62.
• Importance and satisfaction, 48, 57.
• Preparing, 57.
• Seeds, sowing, 58.
• Setting of plants, 13.
• Shirley poppies, 78, 79.
• Shrubs, 159-168.
• Evergreen shrubs, 167.
• Growth from cuttings, 161, 162.
• List of most satisfactory shrubs, 162.
• Planting, 50.
• [See also names of shrubs.]
• Slug-shot, 192.
• Small plot, planting, 37-54.
• Borders, see that title.
• Front of the house, 45-48.
• Snowball, blight, 159.
• Snowdrops, 149.
• Soil—
• Beds, rules for making, 13.
• Clayey, lightening, 16.
• Manure, use of, 71-74.
• Preparation of, 13, 16, 20.
• Sowing—
• Annuals sown in seed-bed in spring, list of, 80.
• Seeds, 58.
• Spider on box, 194.
• Spring-flowering bulbs, 40-44, 149-156.
• Starting a garden, 21.
• Sticks, “dowels,” 196.
• Suburban gardens, 39.
• Sunbonnet, 199.
• Sun-dial, 181-183.
• Sweet Peas—
• Sowing, 83.
• Trellis, 84.
• Sweet Williams, 95.
• Tigrinum, 142.
• Tobacco water, 193.
• Tools and tool-room, 196-199.
• Transplanting—
• Annuals, 86.
• Cardinal flower, 32.
• Fall work, 70-72.
• Ferns, 32.
• Perennials, 102.
• Tritomas, 104.
• Trumpet creeper, 25.
• Tulips, 41, 150.
• Unpacking plants, 65.
• Valerian, 99.
• Veronica longifolia, 104.
• Vines and Creepers—
• Ampelopsis Veitchii, 25.
• Best annual vines, 168.
• Care of, 25.
• Clematis paniculata, 27.
• English ivy, 25.
• Henryi, 27.
• Jackmani clematis, 27.
• Japanese vines, 28.
• North side of house, 29.
• Painting of house, 25-27.
• Perennials, 167.
• Planting, 23.
• Roses, climbing, 27, 131.
• Trumpet creeper, 25.
• Virginia creeper, 25.
• Walks, grass and graveled, 174-177.
• Water supply and watering, 171-174.
• Weeding, 87.
• White spider on box, 194.
• Yucca filamentosa, 102.
• Zinnias, varieties of, 82.

F. C.

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