CHAPTER XII.
After several weeks of genial quiet and enjoyment in the somewhat dilapidated, although still stately old settlement of Macao,—whose soft and balmy summer atmosphere first taught us to understand and take pleasure in the fascinating dolce far niente of the South,—we proceeded to Hong Kong, and while there, as the guests of our friend, Mr. P——, of the house of Olyphant & Co., were the recipients of that lordly and charming hospitality which one meets with among most of the polished and cultivated foreign residents in China.
The colony of Hong Kong is not favorably situated to receive the full influences of the cool southwest monsoon of the summer months, and the extremely warm weather which prevailed at this time produced the most intense tropical languor. After a brief stay, however, the 23d of July found us on board the English coasting steamer Undine, in transitu to our new home in Swatow, at which place we arrived the next day.
Swatow—which is one of the five ports that a few years ago were thrown open by treaties to foreign trade—is situated on the river Han,[31] which is navigable for vessels of a light draft for some distance. There is also a spacious harbor at its mouth, with sufficient water to float ships of large tonnage. The river has several branches, which intersect a populous and fertile region of country, throughout which are scattered villages and large cities, as well as walled towns. In fact, it is said that no district in China presents greater natural advantages for agriculture and commerce than that in the neighborhood of this port.
Double Island—which is the residence of foreigners—is situated a little off the mouth of the river, being about a mile distant from the main land, and five miles from the native town of Swatow. The area of land upon this island is small, a brisk walker being able to accomplish its entire circuit in half an hour without inconvenience. Standing high out of the water, it has two conspicuous and verdant hills, situated, the one at the northern and the other at its southern extremity. These hills overlook the two entrances to the harbor, and upon one of them are still to be seen the ruins of a native fort which once guarded the chief passage. The settlement, which faces the harbor, is built in the valley between; and most of it is so situated under the lee of the high ground as to be sheltered from the worst effects of the terrible typhoons which occasionally visit this region. The climate is very salubrious, and the island is considered one of the most healthy places for Europeans on the coast. Situated quite out into the sea, the inhabitants enjoy the cooling influence of the southwest monsoon through the summer, at which time invalids visiting the place receive much benefit from the pure and bracing sea-air. In fact, we were informed that at one time there had been some talk of establishing upon the island a sanatarium for invalids, and that the scheme was favored by one of the best medical men in Hong Kong.
Notwithstanding the fine sea-air at this place, the heat of the summer, which is of long continuance, is very exhausting to all foreigners; and here—as everywhere else in Southern China—the more temperate October days are welcomed with pleasure. The very warm weather, however, does not commence quite as early in the season as it does at Canton and Whampoa; but as we were at the South until midsummer, we did not have the mercury below eighty degrees from April until the 8th of October, and for by far the greater portion of that time it was some degrees higher.
There being no low lands nor rice-fields upon Double Island, mosquitoes—which are the greatest of all plagues in the south of China—are not numerous. It is only necessary, however, to live in Canton or Macao for a short time, in order fully to appreciate the blessing of being freed from the venomous assaults of this insect. While living upon the water at Whampoa we were seldom troubled with them, but when at Canton, if we chanced to have our beds shielded by defective mosquito-curtains, the night was fearfully woful, and the noise of their shrill trumpets, together with their stinging attacks, not only dispelled sleep, but destroyed all comfort and repose. The species of this insect met there is sui generis, and being striped on the back something like a tiger, has been by some very appropriately called the “tiger mosquito.” The drapery of my sleeping-room at Macao was so infested with these hatefully irritating creatures that the moment I disturbed any part of it they swarmed forth in great numbers. Indeed, even during the day, we frequently suffered such depredations from these bloodthirsty tormentors, that, with the mercury ranging as high as eighty or ninety degrees, it was exceedingly difficult to sit quietly or patiently at any employment. We therefore, on reaching Double Island, felicitated ourselves upon being freed from this, the most intolerably keen annoyance that we met with while living in the East. Even the frightful centipede is not so much to be dreaded, for he always seeks the darkness, and instinctively shuns the presence of man.
The name of this island—which was conferred upon it by Europeans—is derived from its shape, which appears double when seen from the east or west. It has also three very significant Chinese names: viz., Fung-shan, Fang-ke-shan, and Ma-seu, or Ma-soo. We are indebted to a member of the English Consulate at Swatow—who understands the Chinese language—for the following interesting explanation of these names. “Fung-shan,” he writes, “may be translated Phœnix Island,—it being understood that the imaginary supernatural bird of the Chinese, which we call the ‘Phœnix,’ does not correspond with the Phœnix of western legends. The island gets this name from its shape;—the light-house promontory on the east representing the head of the bird, and the main part of the island stretching north and south, the outspread wings. The Chinese, with their geomantic notions, attaching a real importance to this, believe that the light-house erected on the head of the Phœnix has brought bad fortune to the port, in the shape of typhoons[32] and divers other calamities. The word shan, in Fung-shan, may be translated island. Its proper meaning, however, is hill, or mountain, although it often occurs in the names of hilly islands.
“Ma-seu, or Ma-soo, is the most common name among the Chinese, and is not unknown among foreigners. It means the island of Ma-tsoo, the name of a Buddhist goddess, or saint, who has a temple here, which at times is much resorted to. She is a sort of sailors’ goddess, much worshipped by them and others, especially in the provinces of Fuh-kien and Kwang-tung. She was a native, it is said, of Chin-chew, or that neighborhood, in Fuh-kien,—and is sometimes called the ‘Holy Mother,’ ‘Queen of Heaven,’ but is not to be confounded with the Goddess of Mercy, Kwan-yin, whose worship is much more widely diffused all over China, and beyond it, and whose rank is considered higher.
“Fang-ke-shan may be translated—‘the island where fowls are let go.’ I am told that some time ago, when there were no residents here but the people of the temple, live fowls used to be presented at the temple of Ma-tsoo, and then let go on the island, and that rice was given by the junk-people for the food of the fowls. It is also said that people did not dare to steal and eat them, and that any one who did so would get the stomach-ache.”
The Buddhist temples in China are—as we have already seen—placed in the most picturesque situations, and frequently command views of the most charming scenery. This is also the case with the small but elaborately ornamented temple of Ma-tsoo, which is shaded with huge old banians, and located in one of the pleasantest spots on the island. A festival in honor of this goddess—which lasts five days—is held in September of each year, and is attended by crowds of people, who at that time flock to the island from the villages and cities on the main-land, in order to make offerings to their favorite deity. It is the custom of these people to blend various kinds of amusements with their devotions, which, to one so unfortunate as to be within hearing distance, are chiefly characterized by a most heathenish racket. At all of these festivals itinerant theatricals constitute a favorite source of amusement; and at Double Island the temporary theatre—which is always constructed of bamboo-poles and covered with matting—was frequently erected disagreeably near to some of the foreign residences. In September, 1862, one was set up so near our house, that, with the intense heat of the season and the noise of the performers, together with the clangor of their musical (?) instruments, we nearly went mad. The performances—which were continued every evening until an hour or two after twelve o’clock—“made night hideous.” The actors were arrayed in rich satin robes, elaborately embroidered, and, judging from the sea of upturned faces[33] that surrounded the place, the plays must have deeply interested the spectators.
Previous to 1860 there were but very few foreigners living at Swatow. During that year, however, a Mission station, under the auspices of the American Baptist Board, was established at Double Island by the Rev. Mr. Johnson. At that time there were no religious services held on the island, and the natives knew nothing of the Christian religion, or of any of its observances. Under these discouraging circumstances,—which might well-nigh have appalled the most hopeful,—Mr. Johnson purchased a billiard-room,—which was the only place that could then be procured for a chapel,—and at once commenced holding Divine service on Sunday evenings for the benefit of the foreign community. Since that time the building has been converted into a neat little chapel, which is appropriately fitted up, and generally well attended by persons who are grateful for its privileges. Such missionaries as Mr. and Mrs. Johnson are a blessing to all classes of people among whom they may be placed; and one on the spot can readily see in how many different ways the influence and teachings of this mission have tended to improve the natives, as well as to make the place more home-like to Europeans. While I remained at the island Mr. Johnson’s house was the favorite gathering place of all the foreigners in the settlement; and the ladies looked to Mrs. Johnson for advice and aid in every emergency.
The house in which we were to live not being ready for occupation until a fortnight after our arrival at Double Island, and during that time being members of Mr. Johnson’s family, I saw something of the workings of the mission, and became much interested in Mrs. Johnson’s school of Chinese girls. Mr. Johnson was missionary at Hong Kong for several years previous to establishing himself at Swatow, and some of the girls composing Mrs. Johnson’s school while there, being originally from the neighborhood of Double Island, accompanied them on their removal to that place. Some of those who early became Christians have now attained to womanhood, and, still retaining the integrity of their religious profession, are not only leading exemplary lives, but are also making themselves useful to their people. One of them is now the chief native assistant in Mrs. Johnson’s school. When we left Swatow this school numbered eleven boarding pupils, besides five or six day scholars; and a letter received from Mrs. Johnson, since my return to the United States, informs me that six of these pupils have recently become Christians. From what we learned of the influence of this school, not only upon the girls, but also upon the families with which they were connected, we were more than ever convinced that a practical Christian education given to the young, and particularly to the daughters, who, among the Chinese, are rarely taught to read, must in time contribute much towards Christianizing the people. This school—with which I became more familiar than with any other in China—is said to be managed in a wise and very judicious manner. Like that of Mrs. Bonny’s at Canton, the girls are frequently protegés of benevolent and religious women in the United States. We doubt much whether any more wisely appropriated foreign charity, than that extended to these schools, can be found; and in speaking of Mrs. Johnson’s, we would wish to do so in such a manner as to induce our countrywomen of the Baptist churches at home—as well as of other denominations of Protestant Christians, whose enlarged benevolence inclines them to do good whenever an opportunity offers—to become its patrons.
Some of the Chinese youth who have become Christians after coming under the instruction of Mr. Johnson, have, on their refusing to join in the idolatrous ancestral worship of the country, been very cruelly treated by their friends. One of these—a young shopkeeper—was sadly persecuted by his parents, as well as by his brothers and sisters; who not only beat him, but would give him no food, nor suffer him to enter the house. This young man became a Christian after attending, from motives of curiosity, the services at the Mission Chapel which Mr. Johnson established at Tat-hau-po,—a place on the main-land about five miles from Double Island. Finally his business was entirely broken up, and in order to support himself he peddled rice, eggs, and fruit. We often procured our supplies of these articles of him, and long before being made acquainted with his history had observed his meek and chastened appearance, as well as his quiet and gentle demeanor. Older persons, also, on forsaking their idolatry, have suffered very bitter persecution. One of this class,—who is a member of the Mission Church at Tat-hau-po,—previous to his conversion, kept a shop for selling small idols, incense-sticks and incense-paper. This man, after coming under the illuminating and sanctifying influence of the Gospel, decided to abandon a business that was so entirely supported by idol-worship, and therefore immediately closed his shop. This course did not meet with the approbation of his wife or children, none of whom would associate with him, and he was thrust from his home as an outcast.
Just before war broke out between China and the Allies, As-sune, an old native teacher in the employ of Mr. Johnson, being a Christian, suffered imprisonment in the city of Chau-chau-fu, which is situated forty miles up the river from Swatow. When taken before the Mandarins, this man refused to kneel, saying that “he kneeled to none but Jesus.” Then, when attempting to preach the Gospel to them by relating the history of our Saviour, and telling them of his death upon the cross, an effort was made to silence him, which being unsuccessful, he was severely beaten on the cheek with the heavy shoe of a Chinaman, until his face was badly cut and two of his teeth were knocked out.
The native Christians under the watch and care of the mission, always attend the communion services held at Double Island, and have the advantage of profiting by the valuable teachings of Mr. Johnson several times during the year. These services commence on Friday, and continue until Sunday evening; and the communicants, coming from the main-land, frequently travel a distance of forty or fifty miles to be present. In summer the boats of these people arrive at the island in the morning, and our house being situated near the landing-place, we watched with interest for the arrival of three aged Christians, who, fifteen or twenty years ago, while living in Siam for business purposes, had, through the faithfulness of some Baptist missionaries, been converted to Christianity. The countenances of these men—who were over sixty years of age—were spiritual to a degree that reminded us of the old man given in the last picture of Cole’s paintings of the “Voyage of Life.” One rarely meets with such faces, nor with more happy and devoted Christians. We learned from Mr. Johnson that these men, with a few other native converts in humble life, were doing much good among the people where they lived; and that it was not an uncommon thing for persons who had become Christians through the influence of their teachings and example, to come to him for the purpose of further instruction, and to be admitted into his church by baptism. One of the old men mentioned cultivated a small piece of ground, and selling whatever it yielded, appropriated the avails of it to printing parts of the Bible, and religious tracts, which he distributed among his countrymen. This little plot of ground he called “Christ’s Garden.”
The London Missionary Society also had two missionary clergymen stationed in towns forty or fifty miles from Swatow. These men—who were devoted to their work,—occasionally visited the island; and although living where there were no foreign residents, their isolation from the world made them none the less cheerful, nor earnest in doing good.
The different dialects prevailing in every new district one visits in China, are no less noticeable than the difference which is observed in the appearances of the people. This first attracted our attention on reaching Swatow, where we thought the people more hardy looking, as well as rougher, than the same class of natives seen farther south. In fact, the natives of this district have had the reputation of being a savage and quarrelsome people; and a few years ago it was thought to be as much as a foreigner’s life was worth to venture living in their vicinity. The difficulty, however, was greatly owing to their inefficient rulers, together with the dreadful feuds which existed between the inhabitants of different villages. This state of things increased until the people of some of the villages could not pursue any honest employment, however much they might desire to do so. They were often attacked when at work in their fields; and if the crops were left unmolested until ripe, they were sure to be harvested by bands of plunderers. A number of large fishing villages were prominent in creating the anarchy and suffering that finally prevailed, and, being located near the coast, were able to make successful depredations upon the commerce between the sea and the interior, until they nearly destroyed it. By reason of this, foreign vessels, being able to resist the marauders, found lucrative employment at Swatow long before the port was opened by treaty to foreign trade. In consequence of this deplorable state of things, the people were finally reduced to the most abject poverty; and starvation being the only alternative to emigration, Swatow speedily became the centre of the Coolie traffic. At first, the trade being confined to Singapore and Siam, was not marked by those horrors which characterized it after it fell into the hands of the Europeans.
This wicked traffic, like the African slave-trade, resulted in the natives kidnapping one another; and it was the custom of the people of different villages to make raids,—the stronger upon the weaker,—simply for the purpose of procuring men to sell as Coolies to the Europeans. These unfortunate creatures were put into receiving-ships lying in the harbor, and being poorly cared for, as well as placed in very crowded and close quarters, they died in great numbers before the vessels were ready to leave port.
Near a portion of the sea-beach which formed a part of our favorite walk on Double Island, there were two large mounds where many of these Coolies were buried. The sand with which they were originally covered had in some places been washed away by the rains, and occasionally we noticed the bones of an arm or a leg protruding from some part of the elevation. It required only one sad look at these huge graves to convince us that the Asiatic, when once within the grasp of the money-loving and rapacious European, meets with the same fate as the poor African. We observed the Ipomea maritima—a beautiful creeper, which is found trailing in great luxuriance over the sandy beaches of the China sea—growing near these tumuli, and partly covering the surface of one of them with its rich foliage and flowers.
It is stated that during the worst stage of the Coolie traffic the people of the district were demoralized to such a degree that they so far violated all Chinese ideas of propriety as to sell their women, who were sent in large numbers to Singapore and Siam, and that some were also exported to Cuba. The prices received for them ranged from fifteen to thirty dollars, and at that time they constituted a regular article of merchandise to Singapore and Bankok. With the legalization of foreign trade at the port of Swatow, this shocking condition of things underwent a change, and the cruelty attending the Coolie traffic ceased. This being followed by a great increase in trade, and a corresponding increase in revenue, induced both the Government and the people to interpose with a strong hand and put a stop to the enormity. Nothing is now heard of the Coolie trade, nor of the suffering that first caused it; in fact, so few can now be induced even to emigrate that the establishment of the British Emigration Company—which is situated on the Otow shore upon the main-land, and opposite Double Island—was abandoned during the summer I was there, and the agents either left the port, or engaged in a different business.
If, in Southern China, there were accessible mountain regions, where, as in India, sanatariums could be established for the invalided, doubtless by resorting to such places for a few months,—while undergoing the process of acclimation,—foreigners would be enabled to remain in the country with some degree of comfort and safety, for a much longer time than they now do. As the interior of China becomes more and more occupied by Europeans, such places will probably be found; but until then, foreigners, when seriously affected by the climate, must seek a change in visiting the more salubrious coasts of Japan, or by returning home. During the summer months I was gradually prostrated by ill-health; and in September,—notwithstanding my agreeable life in China, and the lively interest which I had taken in regard to the country and its singular people,—I was obliged to prepare for returning home.