A year in China

The harbor of Hong Kong—which is said to be one of the finest in the world—is elliptical in form, and completely landlocked by mountains and bold rocks, which give it an exceedingly picturesque appearance; while the large amount of shipping, and great number of boats, that always throng its waters, present a scene full of life and bustling activity. My destination was Whampoa, but arriving at Hong Kong in advance of our time, the friend who was to meet me there had not yet reached the colony. I was, however, warmly welcomed by my friend and countryman, Mr. S——, the United States Naval Agent at Hong Kong,—at whose house I was most hospitably entertained, and kindly cared for.

When in a foreign land, the love of country, like one’s religion, becomes a sacred emotion; and as I had learned, while on my voyage, to regard our national flag with increased affection, I was pleased to find it floating at the stern of Mr. S——’s gig, and to be taken to the landing under its protecting folds. The Chinese boatmen at the oars, who were arrayed in the blue and white uniform of our navy sailors, also caused my thoughts to turn anxiously homeward, where thousands of our noble soldiers and sailors were sacrificing their lives in order to sustain the free institutions of our fathers.

All Hong Kong was agog with the excitement caused by the rumors of a war between the United States and England; and many of the colonists believed that a serious collision was inevitable. Among our own countrymen there was a variety of opinions, and an anxious looking for the result, which was expected by the next mail.

Mr. S——, who magnified his office, and whose patriotism had the ring of the true metal, had in his “compound”[7] a high flag-staff, at the head of which, in fine weather, the “Star-spangled Banner” was always flying. One day, when speaking of the possibility of a confirmation of the war news, he remarked that he should not, under any circumstances, lower his colors, nor order any of his people to take them down. He added, however, that the moment the Colonial Government were certain of their right to do so, they would undoubtedly remove them, and take possession of his establishment; but that they would find very little property to seize, as he had already taken the precaution to dispose of, and send home, his most valuable stores.

The summary manner in which our war-steamer, the Saginaw, was ordered out of the harbor of Hong Kong, created some indignant feeling among the loyal American residents; as it was a well-known fact at the time, that, in her disabled condition, had a storm occurred during her short voyage to the Macao Roads, her safety must have been endangered. I was at Whampoa the May following, when Captain Watkins, who was sent from California to take charge of the Saginaw, brought her into that port for repairs, and heard that officer allude, with some spirit, to the unhandsome and ungenerous management of that affair; while, at the same time, he expressed the hope that our naval depot would finally be removed from Hong Kong to one of the ports farther up the coast.

The winter having been unusually cool and bracing, all the human exotics from the West were rejoicing under its recuperating influences, the invigorating effects of which would supply them with renewed strength for the long tropical summer that was to follow. There had not been such cold weather for many years; and the sudden transition from the fierce heat of the torrid zone to a climate of such comparatively low temperature, not only made the warmest of garments acceptable, but inclined one to seek the friendly warmth of cheerful coal fires.

The island of Hong Kong is separated from the mainland by a strait from one and a half to five miles in width. The peninsula of Kowlung forms the opposite shore; and on its extreme point, which directly commands the entrance to the English town, there formerly stood two Chinese forts. The bay affords ample room to float a large fleet, and has both deep water and a good anchorage for vessels. Mariners have always been attracted to the island on account of the facilities for procuring a ready supply of the purest water, which is seen falling from the tops of the Leong-teong, or “two summits,” in a series of cascades, the last of which glides with a graceful fall into a rocky basin on the beach. It is from this fountain, called the Hiang-kiang,—the “fragrant stream,”—or the Hoang-kiang,—the “red, or bright torrent,”—that the island is supposed to have derived its name. It was ceded to England in 1849. Its trap-rock mountains are conical, very precipitous, and sterile, but the valleys are sheltered and fertile. There is a large exportation of granite from the island. In its geological structure the trap-rock has the highest position, and the granite is found in immense blocks all over the island.

That part of the bay of Hong Kong which skirts the city of Victoria is faced with a substantial sea-wall of stone. The city is built at the foot of the mountains, which, in some places, have been graded to make room for the buildings on the principal street, which winds along the shore of the bay, and is called the “Queen’s Road.” Streets leading from this avenue wind around the declivities of the mountains, upon whose terraced sides are perched the houses of foreigners. From the highest terraces, where some of the finest residences are situated, there is an extensive view of the harbor, which, with its series of bays, white with shipping, stretches far away in the distance.

The most desirable locations in the city have distinctive names; and beside the Government House, there is the Carlton Terrace, Spring Gardens, the Hermitage, the Albany, etc. Our friends resided at Spring Gardens, and occupied a large, rambling, stone house, whose apartments and spacious verandas were well arranged for tropical comfort. This place is situated upon the shore of the bay, and the houses, with their pleasant grounds, front the water,—the rear walls of their “compounds” opening upon the Queen’s Road by large gateways. The rooms upon the ground-floor of all foreign residences are called “go-downs,” and are only used for store-rooms, and for the accommodation of the servants of the household.

The climate of China is so enervating to people from the Western hemisphere that they rarely take long walks, and in all cases where much locomotion is required they employ Coolies to carry them in sedan chairs. Every family has at least one or two of these chairs, and a couple of chair Coolies; and there are also establishments where strangers can at any time procure, at a very moderate rate, both the chairs and bearers. Some of the private chairs are covered with black or deep-blue broadcloth, and have a lining of silk, with outer trimmings of heavy fringe. These, when ornamented with bright buttons, are very handsome. Among the latter we observed the chair of Lady Robinson,—the wife of the Governor of the colony,—and also that of Mrs. Smith,—the wife of the English Bishop. Mr. S—— being in the United States service, and his father-in-law having been one of our most respected and loyal commodores, I was glad to find his wife’s chairs very appropriately covered with blue navy cloth, and ornamented with our naval button. Sedan chairs are carried by means of poles made of bamboo or wood, which the Coolies bear upon their shoulders, and are so arranged that, when lifted from the ground, the elevation of the lower part of the chair is at least three feet, and sometimes more. Any accident, therefore, involving its fall,—particularly in passing over steep and uneven surfaces,—may occasion very serious consequences.

The day after my kind reception by Mr. and Mrs. S——, I attended, in company with the latter, an examination of a school of Chinese girls. In order to reach the Albany, where this school was located, we were obliged to clamber some distance up the mountain; and extra bearers and chairs being procured, we sallied forth from the great gateway leading into the Queen’s Road, and were directly passing the houses and shops of the European and Chinese residents,—our bearers threading their way through crowds of people. Here and there we met an English officer, and occasionally one of the city police; while, in passing the barracks, we again encountered the Seapoy soldiery,—the fearfully wicked expression of whose eyes, as they impressed us when first seen at Singapore, can never be mistaken or forgotten. Near the Royal Theatre we turned into a street that led up the slope of the mountain, and for a time our stalwart bearers trotted briskly on with ease and steadiness. When, however, about half-way up the ascent, the man walking in front of my chair began to pant and waver in his movements, until finally he labored for breath like one very ill. My pace being lessened, I was already greatly in the rear of my friend; and, becoming alarmed at the idea of a possible fall and tumble down the side of the mountain, begged earnestly, both in words and pantomime, to have my chair set down. Having at length made myself understood, the chair was put down in the middle of the road; and the Coolie, who had excited my pity and sympathy, although still panting, was quietly standing, and looking on with that grave and apparently unconscious air which a Chinaman knows so well how to affect, when he is intent upon gaining some undue advantage over you. My friend, however, on approaching, read him at a glance. He was only performing an old ruse upon a newly arrived outside barbarian,—for it seems that the man expected to work upon my feelings until I should, out of pity, pay and dismiss him. Poor man! he had melted me into the pathetic, but the sudden change to the ludicrous was irresistible, when my friend, understanding the case, exclaimed, in Canton English,[8] “How fashion that!—what for you no carry that chair?” Not a word was uttered by the Coolie, who, apparently oblivious of what was passing, seemed neither to hear, nor to be conscious that anything was wrong. After a short pause, my friend, accompanying her words with spirited little gestures, continued:—“Fightee la,[9]—I tellee Massee of you, and he no givee you one cash![10] Takee up that chair, chop-chop! no can carry alla proper,—no can catchee that cash! I say you no carry—Massee no givee one single cash!” My bearers, who readily understood what was meant by “Massee no givee one single cash,” unless they performed their contract, thereupon took up the chair, and carried it with apparent ease to the end.

On reaching the school we found Bishop Smith, with his wife and many others, already there; but the Governor’s wife not having made her appearance, there was a little delay. This school, which is under the patronage of the Bishop, numbered sixteen girls, from four to fourteen years of age, and was in charge of Miss Wilson, an Englishwoman.

Her Ladyship having at length arrived, after some religious exercises were had, the children were examined by their teacher. The Bishop, with the aid of a Chinese student, then interrogated them for some time, and after making a few remarks to the audience dismissed them.

The girls of this school, besides receiving a useful education, are taught and thoroughly trained in the precepts of the Bible. Two of them, who were twelve or fourteen years of age, and were from the better class of Chinese families, had quite a prepossessing appearance as they toddled about on their little feet. They were also candidates for confirmation, and were at this time examined preparatory to receiving that rite. The Chinaman who assisted in the examination was a teacher from an institution which Bishop Smith had established at Hong Kong for the benefit of Chinese youths. There were also at Hong Kong other missionaries and schools, supported by different denominations, but my stay in the colony was too brief to enable me to become acquainted with them.

The English mail-steamer, which we left at Singapore, did not reach Hong Kong until thirty hours after the Poyang had anchored in the bay; and although we brought the news of Prince Albert’s death, the official announcement to the Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was not received until the arrival of the mail. The sad intelligence had been so long on the way that there was only a week, or ten days, of the prescribed Court mourning left; but for that space of time the Government dignitaries wore the sable as directed, and the invitations which had a few days previous been issued by Lady Robinson for a grand reception on the twenty-ninth of the month, were countermanded. This was done by sending a servant to those invited, with a note containing the following announcement:—

Under this a list was given of the names of those invited; and to be certain that the paper had been presented to all, each one signed his name directly opposite where it was already written.

On sending a message or a package by a Chinese servant, it is always necessary to send a note, which in the patois is called a “chit.” Writing notes is in fact an “institution” among the foreign residents; and rarely a day passes that one has not more or less of them to despatch. To be sure that they reach their destination, the servant also carries a “chit-book,” in which is written the name of the person to whom the note is sent, together with the day of the month; and on the return of the messenger, if the person addressed is found to have signed his name, it is proof positive that the trust has been faithfully fulfilled.

Having been joined by Mr. W——, who arrived from Whampoa on Saturday, on Sunday we attended service at the Bishop’s Cathedral, where we witnessed the solemn ordinance of confirmation administered to a large number of English sailorboys, from a naval receiving-ship lying in the harbor. There were also one or two English officers who were confirmed, besides several sailors, and the two Chinese girls whom we saw at Miss Wilson’s school. The boys had been trained and catechized, preparatory to receiving the rite, by their chaplain, who was present.

Amid these solemn ceremonies it was gratifying to reflect that a thorough knowledge of God’s commandments, the Catechism, and the Creed, together with the continued faithfulness of their chaplain, might not only tend to the moral elevation of the boys, but, under the Divine blessing, be the means of making many of them thoroughly religious men.

The English have always much to say of our “nasal twang” and “Puritan snuffle;” but few Yankees, however, can successfully emulate the Bishop of Victoria in that doubtful accomplishment. I have occasionally heard clergymen at home in whom this defect was fearfully conspicuous, but never remember meeting it in a more intensified form.

The camelia japonica, which is indigenous to China, was in bloom when we were at Hong Kong. Being generally cultivated in the gardens, it is much used for bouquets, and the rarest, as well as the most beautiful, are obtained in as great profusion as roses are with us. One day, while paying a visit to a friend, a lovely little girl came in from the garden and presented me with a bouquet of the most superb buds and blossoms of the camelia that I ever saw. Next to the beauty of the gift, what surprised me the most was its lavish degree of elegance; for having always regarded the possession of one camelia as a luxury, I could not divest myself of the idea that the possession of so many was an extravagant indulgence.

Before Hong Kong was colonized, the various members of foreign commercial houses in the south of China resided at Canton, although, for the benefit of the sea-air, they frequently passed the summer with their families at Macao. But after the English had established a more home-like place of residence at Victoria, they made their principal head-quarters there, and left the junior partners to transact the business at Canton. Hong Kong has therefore become the centre of attraction to all foreigners, as well as the arbiter of style and fashion in China. Like all English colonial communities, precedence in rank and position is closely adhered to, and rules throughout all cultivated society. As we remained in the place only ten days, I could of course know but little comparatively in reference to these matters; although from our friends, who had the entrée to the circle of Lady Robinson, I gained a favorable impression in regard to her ladyship and the society of which she is the centre. Much attention is paid to forms of etiquette among all the foreign communities in China; and the little—but, nevertheless, always agreeable—amenities of life are seldom forgotten. Notwithstanding the great difference in modes of living,—which are totally unlike those of the Western hemisphere,—the structure of society and its conventional rules are thoroughly English. Men of wealth and position live in a very luxurious style,—the East India Company having given a permanent tone to society in general, the effects of which are still manifest in the prevailing habits and customs of the people.

Many of the residents of Hong Kong keep European horses, but the climate is so unfriendly to them they survive but five or six years after being brought into the colony. I observed some handsome turn-outs, among which the basket, or “Croyden carriage” appeared to be the vehicle most in use.

The roads are finely macadamized, and in the cool of the day there is a great deal of horseback riding. As in all English communities, the races constitute one of the principal amusements of the people; and in order to have a suitable place for this purpose, the surface of a spacious and level vale, called the “Happy Valley,”—which is near the eastern limits of the town, and lies between two beautifully swelling mountains that open upon Sanpan Bay,[11]—has been reclaimed from a state of saltmarsh, and now forms an extensive race-course. At a convenient point well-adapted buildings are arranged, and fitted up with all the necessary appliances for the accommodation of judges and spectators. During the races this place is thronged with gay and busy crowds of fashionable people; but to one newly arrived from the occident there is a strangely odd mixture of the grave and gay, in the surroundings and present use of the valley. The Protestant, Roman Catholic, and Parsee cemeteries are situated at the distance of only about three rods directly in the rear of the covered seats for the spectators, and the stands for the judges. These populous “cities of the dead” are in separate enclosures, although contiguous to each other, and are shaded thickly with evergreens and flowering shrubs. In the Protestant ground we observed single camelias in bloom on shrubs eight or ten feet in height. We also noticed, within the Parsee enclosure, several fresh graves already dug, and learned that it was the custom to have such places ready when called for, as it was often necessary in so warm a climate to bury the dead as soon as possible. This close proximity of a race-course to such an array of burial-places impressed us disagreeably; and we could not but think that so incongruous a blending of the gravely solemn with the gay and boisterously jolly, if met by an Englishman anywhere else than among his own countrymen, would call forth severe animadversion not only upon the community, but upon the nation to whom the people belonged. The graves of the Chinese are also scattered nearly to the top of the mountain slope on the opposite side of the valley; but their resting-places are found on all the hill-sides, as well as on most of the unoccupied ground in China.

On nearing the port of Hong Kong almost the first object that meets the eye are the Chinese graves, and the attention is arrested by the peculiar style of some of their tombs, which are in shape like the Omega (Ω) of the Greek alphabet. The graves on the slope of Victoria Mountain, near the water, are very conspicuous.

Ancestral worship (of which I shall say more hereafter) is a part of the religion of the Chinese which prompts even the poorest people to care for and keep in good condition the graves of their household. Only the better or more wealthy classes, however, put up tombstones to mark the spot; and none but the mandarins, or those well to do in the world, build the elaborate tombs of the Greek-letter form.

On our arrival at Hong Kong the Chinese population were in the midst of their New Year festivities, during which all classes cease their occupations, and for some days indulge in mirth and enjoyment. One day during this festival we witnessed a very extraordinary game of shuttlecock played before some Chinese houses on the Queen’s Road, by young men, who, with marvellous skill, used their feet for battledores.

Dr. Williams, in his “Middle Kingdom,” says that “the evidences of the approach of this chief festival appear some weeks previous; when a general cleaning of houses, boats, and garments takes place, and all accounts are settled and debts paid. On its arrival, the whole population throw off the old year with a shout, and clothe themselves in the new with their change of garments.” At this festive season, also, the boat-people decorate their little floating houses with bright-colored papers, on many of which are printed prayers addressed to their deities. These papers, which were arranged so as to flutter in the wind, together with the bright-colored lanterns and paper-flowers, which are also frequently used in the decorations, give the boats a very gay appearance. It was said that a thousand of these ornamented boats were lying at Sanpan Bay when we visited it. They were closely moored in tiers, side by side, reaching far out into the waters, while papers of brilliant hues were floating from their oars, helms, and also from the tops of their little mat-covered cabins.