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Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 2

Chapter 46: APPENDIX II.
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About This Book

A sequence of travel letters presents a close survey of Normandy's architectural antiquities, combining on-site descriptions of abbeys, cathedrals, castles, and civic structures with historical accounts and local anecdotes. Detailed attention is given to sculptural and structural features, tombs, heraldry, and ruins, alongside notes on landscape, industry, customs, and inhabitants. The narrative records visits to museums, libraries, and monasteries, references natural curiosities and regional practices, and is supported by engraved plates and appended historical notes and indices.

Footnotes:

[96] Antiquités Nationales, IV. No. 48.

[97] Antiquités Nationales, II. No. 17.

[98] Histoire de la Haute Normandie, II. p. 332.

[99] Histoire d'Evreux, p. 161.

[100] Antiquités Nationales, IV. No. 40.

[101] This mode of divination by the Bible and key, is also to be found among the superstitions of our own country.--See Ellis' edition of Brand's Popular Antiquities, II. p. 641.

[102] Ducarel's Anglo-Norman Antiquities, p. 93.--Respecting Vernon, see also Millin, Antiquités Nationales, III. No. 26, in which four plates, and near fifty pages of letter-press, are devoted to this town.


APPENDIX I.


The printing of this work was just concluded, when the author was favored with drawings, accompanied with short descriptions, of the chapel of our Lady of the Délivrande, near Caen, and of an ancient font at Magneville, near Valognes. For the former he is indebted to Mr. Cohen, to whom he has so often in the course of the work, had occasion to express his obligations; for the latter, to M. de Gerville, an able antiquary at Valognes. Both these subjects are of such a nature, that he is peculiarly happy to be able to add them to his imperfect account of the Antiquities of Normandy: the whole duchy does not contain a religious building more celebrated for its sanctity than the chapel; and while ancient fonts of any description are rare in the province, he doubts if another is to be found like that of Magneville, ornamented with sculpture and an inscription.


Some historians suppose, that the country situated between Caen and the sea, formed at least, a part of the Saxon shore of Neustria. Amongst the other ancient buildings which are found in this district, the chapel of Notre Dame de la Délivrande, to which the Normans have resorted in pilgrimage during the last eight hundred years, is, perhaps, the most remarkable.

When the philosophers of the revolution envied the religious enjoyments of the common man, all pilgrimages were forbidden, and the road leading to our Lady's Chapel, and which, indeed, is the only high road in this part of the country, became almost impassable. Under the Emperor it was thoroughly repaired, and, as they say, by his especial order; and since the accession of the present French king, the fathers of the mission, who lose no favorable opportunity of fostering the spirit of devotion, have erected roods and tabernacles, at due distances, all along the way side.

After leaving Caen, the traveller will not fail to linger on the little hill which he ascends just after passing by the first crucifix. Hence he enjoys a lovely prospect, such as delighted the old masters. In the foreground is the lofty cross, standing on a quadrangular pyramid of steps. The broken hollow path bending upwards round the base, is always occupied by a grotesque group of cripples and beldames, in rags and tatters, laughing and whining and praying. The horizon is bounded by long lines of grey and purple hills, nearer are fields and pastures, whilst the river glitters and winds amidst their vivid tints. Nearer still, the city of Caen extends itself from side to side, terminated at each extremity by the venerable abbeys of William and Matilda. There are no traces of work-shops and manufactories, or of their pollution; but the churches with their towers and spires rise above the houses in bold architectural masses, and the city assumes a character of quiet monastic opulence, comforting the eye and the mind.

About four miles farther on from Caen, we reached Cambre, one of the many seignories which belonged to the very noble family of Mathan. There was a Serlo de Mathan, who appears as a witness to one of the Conqueror's charters, and the family is now represented by the present Marquis, who has recovered his château, and a fragment of his domain. Cambre is also the residence of the Abbé de la Rue, by whom the Marquis was educated. When they both took refuge in England, the Abbé was the only protector of his pupil, who now returns the honorable obligation. It is well known that the Abbé has devoted his life to the investigation of the antiquities both of Normandy and of the Anglo-Normans. Possessing in a high degree the acute and critical spirit of research which distinguished the French archaiologists of the Benedictine school, we have only to regret, that the greater part of his works yet remain in manuscript. His History of Anglo-Norman Poetry, which is quite ready for the press, would be an invaluable accession to our literature; but books of this nature are so little suited to the taste of the French public, that, as yet, he has not ventured upon its publication. The collections of the Abbé, as may be anticipated, are of great value; they relate almost wholly to the history of the duchy. The château escaped spoliation. The portraits of the whole line of the Mathans, from the first founder of the race, in his hauberk, down to the last Marquis, in his frisure, are in good preservation; and they are ancient specimens of the sign-post painting usually found in old galleries. The Marquis has also a finely-illuminated missal, which belonged to a Dame de Mathan, in the fourteenth century, and which has been carefully handed down in the family, from generation to generation.

The church of Douvre, the next village, is rather a picturesque building. The upper story of the tower has two pointed windows of the earliest date. A pediment between them rests on the archivolt on either side. This is frequently seen in buildings in the circular style. The other stories of the tower, and the west front of the church are Norman; the east end is in ruins. The British name of the village may afford ground for much ethnigraphical and etymological speculation.

Saint Exuperius is said to have founded the Chapel of La Délivrande, some time in the first century. The tradition adds, that the chapel was ruined by the Northmen,--and the statue of the Virgin, which now commands the veneration of the faithful, remained buried until the appointed time of resuscitation, in the reign of Henry Ist, when it was discovered, in conformity to established usage and precedent in most cases of miraculous images, by a lamb. Baldwin, Count of the Bessin and Baron of Douvre, was owner of the flock to which the lamb belonged. The Virgin would not remain in the parish church of Douvre, in which she was lodged by the Baron, but she returned every night to the spot where she was disinterred. Baldwin therefore understood that it was his duty to erect a chapel for her reception, and he accordingly built that which is now standing, and made a donation of the edifice to the Bishop of Bayeux, whose successor receives the mass-pennies and oblations at this very day. Some idea of the architecture of the building may be formed from the inclosed sketch of the western front. During the morning mass, the chapel was crowded with women, young and old, who were singing the litany of the Virgin in a low and plantive tone. A hymn of praise was also chaunted. It was composed by the learned Bishop Huet, and it is inscribed upon a black marble tablet, which was placed in the chapel by his direction. The country women of the Saxon shore possess a very peculiar physiognomy, denoting that the race is unmixed. The Norman-Saxon damsel is full and well made, her complexion is very fair, she has light hair, long eyelashes, and tranquil placid features; her countenance has an air of sullen pouting tenderness, such as we often find in the women represented in the sculptures and paintings of the middle ages. And all the girls are so much alike, that it might have been supposed that they all were sisters. As to our Lady, she is gaily attired in a Cashemire shawl, and completely covered with glaring amber necklaces and beads, and ribband knots, and artificial flowers. Many votive offerings are affixed round her shrine. The pilgrim is particularly desired to notice a pair of crutches, which testify the cure of their former owner, who lately hobbled to the Virgin from Falaise, as a helpless cripple, and who quitted her in perfect health. Of course the Virgin has operated all the usual standard miracles, including one which may be suspected to be rather a work of supererogation, that of restoring speech to a matron who had lost her tongue, which had been cut out by her jealous husband. Miracles of every kind are very frequently performed, yet, if the truth must be told, they are worked, as it were, by deputy, for the real original Virgin suffered so much during the revolution, that it has been thought advisable to keep her in the sacristy, and the statue now seen is a restoration of recent workmanship. In order to conciliate the sailors and fishermen of the coast, the Virgin has entered into partnership with St. Nicholas, whose image is impressed on the reverse of the medal representing her, and which is sold to the pilgrims.

The country about La Délivrande is flat, but industriously cultivated and thickly peopled. The villages are numerous and substantial. From a point at the extremity of the green lane which leads onward from La Délivrande, six or eight church spires may be counted, all within a league's distance. By the advice of the Abbé de la Rue, we proceeded to Bernieres, which is close to the sea. The mayor of the commune offered his services with great civility, and accompanied us to the church, which, as he told us, was built by Duke William. We easily gave credit to the mayor's assertion, as the interior of the nave is good Norman. The pillars which support the groining of the roof are square; this feature is rather singular. The tower and spire are copied from Saint Peter, at Caen. Those of Luc, Courseilles, Langrune, and the other neighboring villages, are upon the same model. Many instances of the same kind of affiliation occur at home, which shew how easily a fashion was set in ecclesiastical architecture.



APPENDIX II.


The most remarkable among the ancient inscriptions found in that part of Normandy, which is now comprised in the Department of La Manche, are upon an ancient altar, at Ham, on a medallion attached to the outside of the church of Ste. Croix, at St. Lô, and upon the font at Magneville, near Valognes. The first of these has generally been referred to the seventh century; the second seems to be of the ninth; and the last may with safety be considered as of the latter part of the tenth, or beginning of the eleventh, at which period, the choir of the church of Magneville appears also to have been erected. Of the sculpture upon the font, as well as of the inscription, an accurate idea may be formed, from the annexed drawing: the most remarkable character of the inscription seems to be in its punctuation. The letters upon the altar, at Ham, touch one another, and there is no separation of any kind between the words: here, on the contrary, almost all the words are divided by three or four points placed in a perpendicular direction, except at the end of the phrases, where stops are wholly wanting. At Ham, also, the letters are cut into the stone, while at Magneville they are drawn with a brush, with a kind of black pigment.

G.


END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.


INDEX.

A.

  • Abbey, of Ardennes, 225
  • --Bec, 106
  • --Bernay, 119
  • --Bonport, 284
  • --Cormeilles, 145
  • --Ducler, 1
  • --Jumieges, 17
  • --Preaux, 145
  • --St. Evroul, 146
  • --St. Georges de Bocherville, 3
  • --St. Stephen, at Caen, 192
  • --St. Taurinus, 74
  • --Trinity at Caen, 182.
  • Academy of Druids, at Bayeux, 227.
  • Academy of Sciences, at Caen, 214.
  • Agnes Sorel, buried at Jumieges, 34
  • --her statue destroyed by the Huguenots, 34
  • --her tomb destroyed at the revolution, 34
  • --inscription upon, 35.
  • Amphitheatre, Roman, found near Lisieux, 140.
  • Amyot, Mr. his paper on the Bayeux tapestry, 238.
  • Andelys, origin of the name, 52
  • --history of, 53
  • --seat of an early monastery, 53
  • --great house at, 55
  • --birth-place of Poussin, 57.
  • Andromeda polifolia, found near Jumieges, 18.
  • Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, a monk at Bec, 110.
  • Aqueduct, Roman, remains of, at Vieux, 222.
  • Archbishops of Rouen, their palace at Gaillon, 290.
  • Arches, trefoil-headed, early specimen of, at Jumieges, 33.
  • Ardennes, abbey of, near Caen, 225.
  • Arlette, mother of the Conqueror, native of Falaise, 268.
  • Arnulf, bishop of Lisieux, 135.
  • Arthur, Prince, knighted at Gournay, 43.
  • Asselin, forbids the interment of the Conqueror, 200.
  • Audinus, bishop of Evreux, authorizes Henry Ist to burn the city, 67.
  • Augustodurum, probably the site of, at Vieux, 223.

B.

  • Bailiffs, first established in Normandy under Philip Augustus, 232.
  • Baiocco of Naples, named after Bayeux, 261.
  • Bas-relief, in the church of St. Georges de Bocherville, 9.
  • Baudius, professor of law for a short time at Caen, 216.
  • Bayeux, seat of an academy of Druids, 227
  • --Roman relics found near, but no Druidic, 228
  • --a Roman station, 228
  • --probably the Næomagus Viducassium, 228
  • --its ancient name, 229
  • --its importance under the early French kings, 229
  • --its history, 231
  • --the place where the Norman princes were educated, 231
  • --castle, 233
  • --situation, population, and trade, 234
  • --tapestry, 235
  • --cathedral, 244.
  • Bayeux, Roman, probably destroyed by the Saxons, 229.
  • Bec, abbey of, its present state, 106
  • --former income and patronage, 107
  • --church described by Du Plessis, 107
  • --founded by Hellouin, 108
  • --history, 108
  • --seminary for eminent men, 114.
  • Belenus, worshipped near Bayeux, 228.
  • Berengarius, his tenets impugned by Lanfranc, 105
  • --of Brionne, 117.
  • Bernay, abbey of, 119
  • --church, 121
  • --burial-ground, 122
  • --population and trade, 123
  • --costume of the females, 124.
  • Bernieres, church of, 299.
  • Blanche, wife of Charles the Bel, confined in Château Gaillard, 63.
  • Bochart, one of the founders of the academy at Caen, 214.
  • Boileau, his eulogium on Malherbe, 215.
  • Bonport, abbey of, 284.
  • Borghese, Princess of, original letter by, 151.
  • Bouillon, Duke of, Lord of Evreux, at the revolution, 83.
  • Bourg-Achard, seat of an abbey, dedicated to St. Eustatius, 96
  • --leaden font, 97.
  • Bourg-Theroude, 104.
  • Bourgueville, his antiquities of Caen, 164
  • --present at the exhumation of the Conqueror's remains, 303.
  • Boy, bishop, annually elected at Caen, 261.
  • Bretteville l'Orgueilleuse, church of, 226.
  • Brionne, situation of, 116
  • --seat of the council which condemned the tenets of Berengarius, 117
  • --castle, 116.
  • Brito, his account of the siege of Gournay, 41
  • --of Château Gaillard, 60
  • --of the murder of the French garrison of Evreux, 82
  • --of Caen, 166.
  • Broglie, church of, 125.
  • Bruce, David, a resident in Château Gaillard, 63.
  • Buck-wheat, much cultivated in Lower Normandy, 158
  • --etymology of its French name, 158.

C.

  • Caen, arrival at, 153
  • --distant view of, 159
  • --trade and population, 159
  • --situation, 160
  • --grand cours, 161
  • --costume of females, 161
  • --house-rent, 162
  • --foundation, 165
  • --described by Brito, 166
  • --etymology of the name, 166
  • --fortifications, 167
  • --Château de Calix, 168
  • --castle, 170
  • --chapel in the castle, 171
  • --hospital, 173
  • --royal abbeys, 182
  • --college, 193
  • --palace, 205
  • --museum, 210
  • --library, 210
  • --universities, 211
  • --men of eminence, 214
  • --academy, 214
  • --Malherbe, 215
  • --history, 217
  • --neighborhood abundant in fossil remains, 217
  • --seen from the road leading to La Délivrande, 295.
  • Caen-stone, large quarries of, 224
  • --formerly much used in England, 225.
  • Cambre, 296.
  • Cambremer, Canon of, tale respecting, at Bayeux, 255.
  • Cannon, first used in France, at the siege of Pont Audemer, 91.
  • Canons, four statues of, at Evreux, 70.
  • Castle, of Bayeux, 234
  • --Brionne, 116
  • --Caen, 170
  • --Creully, 264
  • --Falaise, 266
  • --Gisors, 45
  • --Montfort, 93
  • --Neufmarché, 44.
  • Cathedral of Bayeux, founded by St. Exuperius, 244
  • --history, 244
  • --described, 246
  • --crypt, 253
  • --stripped of its relics, 257
  • --revenue, 261
  • --right of mintage, 261.
  • Cathedral of Evreux, often destroyed, 67
  • --its present state, 69
  • --little injured by the Huguenots, 71
  • --founded by St. Taurinus, 71.
  • Cathedral of Lisieux, now the parish church of St. Peter, 129
  • --described, 129
  • --remarkable tomb in, 133.
  • Cauchon, Peter, bishop of Lisieux, president at the trial of Joan of Arc, 132.
  • Cecily, daughter of the Conqueror, abbess at Caen, 191.
  • Chapel, subterranean, in Bayeux cathedral, 253
  • --in the castle at Caen, 171
  • --in the castle at Falaise, 269
  • --of St. Adrian, 281
  • --of La Délivrande, 298.
  • Chapel in the castle at Caen, built fronting the east, 171.
  • Chapels, stone-roofed, in Ireland, of Norman origin, 176.
  • Charles the Bad, born in the Château de Navarre, 86.
  • Charters, of the abbey of St. Georges de Bocherville, 4.
  • Château de Navarre, 86.
  • Château Gaillard, its situation, 58
  • --described, 59
  • --account of, by Brito 60
  • --history, 61.
  • Château de Calix, at Caen, 168.
  • Chesnut-timber, formerly much used in Normandy, 226.
  • Church, of the abbey of Bec, 107
  • --Bernieres, 299
  • --Bernay, 121
  • --Bretteville l'Orgueilleuse, 226
  • --Broglie, 125
  • --Creully, 264
  • --Ducler, 1
  • --Ecouis, 64
  • --Falaise, 276
  • --Gisors, 50
  • --Gournay, 43
  • --Jumieges, 26
  • --St. Peter's at ditto, 32
  • --Louviers, 287
  • --Moulineaux, 102
  • --Pont Audemer, 91
  • --Pont-de-l'Arche, 285
  • --St. Germain de Blancherbe, 224
  • --St. Gervais, at Falaise, 277
  • --St. Georges de Bocherville, 7
  • --St. Giles, at Evreux, 78
  • --St. James, at Lisieux, 137
  • --St. John, at Caen, 180
  • --St. Michael, at ditto, 181
  • --St. Nicholas, at ditto, 175
  • --St. Peter, at ditto, 177
  • --St. Stephen's abbey, at ditto, 194
  • --Trinity, at ditto, 182
  • --Trinity at Falaise, 276
  • --Vernon, 291.
  • Cider, the common beverage, in Normandy, 156
  • --first introduced by the Normans, 157.
  • Cocherel, 87.
  • Coins, golden, struck at Bayeux, under the first French kings, 229.
  • Colline des deux amans, priory of, 283.
  • Cormeilles, abbey of, 215.
  • Corneille, buried at Andelys, 58.
  • Costume, at Bernay, 124
  • --at Caen, 161.
  • Coupe gorge, colony established at, by Napoléon, 155.
  • Creully, castle, 264
  • --church, 264.
  • Crocodile fossil, found near Caen, 217.
  • Croissanville, 158.

D.

  • Dalechamps, native of Caen, 215.
  • D'Amboise, Cardinal, built the palace at Gaillon, 290.
  • Darnétal, 38.
  • De Boissy, bishop of Bayeux, his epitaph, 254.
  • De la Rue, Abbé, professor of history at Caen, 213
  • --is preparing an account of Caen, 217
  • --his paper on the Bayeux tapestry, 236.
  • Douce, Mr., his illustration of the sculpture at St. Georges de Bocherville, 14.
  • Douvre, 297.
  • Dubois Louis,
  • --his discoveries among the ruins of Old Lisieux, 140
  • --preserved the original M.S. of Ordericus Vitalis, 149
  • --is preparing the history of Lisieux, 149.
  • Ducarel, his description of a pavement in the palace at Caen, 206.
  • Ducler, convent, 1
  • --parish church, 2.
  • Du Perron, cardinal, bishop of Evreux, 73.
  • Du Plessis, his opinion as to Turold on the Bayeux tapestry, 104
  • --description of the abbey church of Bec, 107.

E.

  • Ecouis, church of, burial-place of John and Enguerrand de Marigny, 64
  • --singular epitaph, 66.
  • Epitaph, enigmatical at Ecouis, 66
  • --of John de Boissy, 254
  • --on the exterior of Bayeux cathedral, 255.
  • Evreux, destroyed by Henry Ist, 67
  • --cathedral, 67
  • --abbey of St. Taurinus, 74
  • --history, 80
  • --present appearance, 84.
  • Evreux, Old, a Roman station, 79.

F.

  • Falaise, situation of, 265
  • --etymology of the name, 266
  • --castle, 266
  • --Talbot's tower, 268
  • --chapel in castle, 269
  • --history, 272
  • --firmly attached to the League, 274
  • --fortifications, 275
  • --inhabitants true Normans, 276
  • --population and trade, 276
  • --churches, 276.
  • Fastolf, Sir John, governor of Caen, 173.
  • Flambart, Ralph, bishop of Durham, seizes Lisieux, 142.
  • Fleury, Cardinal, abbot at Caen, 193.
  • Fonts, seldom seen in French churches, 297.
  • Font, curiously sculptured, at Magneville, 301.
  • Font, leaden, at Bourg-Achard, 97.

G.

  • Gaillon, vineyards near, 289
  • --present state of, 289
  • --ceded to the archbishop of Rouen, 290
  • --made by the treaty of Louviers the frontier town of the Duchy, 291.
  • Gisors, castle, appearance of, 45
  • --history, 54
  • --place of interview between Henry IInd, and Philip Augustus, 47
  • --arms of the town, 48
  • --castle, described, 48
  • --church of, 50
  • --banded column in the church, 50.
  • Glass painted, at the abbey of Bonport, 285
  • --in the church of Pont de l'Arche, 286.
  • Gournay, origin of, 39
  • --present appearance, 40
  • --history, 40
  • --siege described by Brito, 41
  • --arms of, 43
  • --place where Prince Arthur was knighted, 43
  • --church, 43
  • --remarkable sculpture on the capitals, 43.
  • Gournay, Hugo de, 42.
  • Guibray, fair of, 277.
  • Gurney, Hudson, his paper on the Bayeux tapestry, 237.

H.

  • Harcourt, castle of, 89.
  • Hellouin, founder of the abbey of Bec, 108
  • --his epitaph, 113.
  • Hennuyer, John, bishop of Lisieux, said to have saved the Huguenots, 136.
  • Henry Ist, kept prisoner by Robert at Bayeux, 232
  • --destroyed the city, 233.
  • History, ecclesiastical, of Ordericus Vitalis, materials for a new edition of, 148
  • --original manuscript, 148
  • --manuscript copies, 149.
  • Holy Trinity, church of, at Falaise, 276.
  • Honfleur, situation of, 94
  • --described, 94.
  • Horses, Norman, present price of, 115.
  • Hospital at Caen, founded in the thirteenth century, 174.
  • Hoveden, his account of the interview between Henry IInd, and Philip Augustus, near Gisors, 47.
  • Hubert, archbishop of Canterbury, a monk of Bec, 114.
  • Hubert, M., discovered the site of the Neomagus Lexoviorum, 139.
  • Huet, his Origines de Caen, 165
  • --one of the founders of the academy at Caen, 214.
  • Huguenots, destroy the tomb and violate the remains of the Conqueror, 202.
  • Hume, David, his opinion on the Bayeux tapestry, 237.
  • Hypocaust, Roman, found at Vieux, 221.

I.

  • Inscription, on the font at Magneville, 301.
  • John, King, murders the French garrison of Evreux, 81.
  • Isatis tinctoria, cultivated in France under Napoléon, 282.
  • Jumieges, abbey of, its foundation, 18
  • --original building, 19
  • --history, 22
  • --church, 26
  • --Salle des Chevaliers, 32
  • --church of St. Peter, 32
  • --monuments, 34.
  • Ivory chest, in Bayeux cathedral, 258.

K.

  • Knights, Templars, house of, at Louviers, 288.

L.

  • Lamouroux, M. professor of natural history at Caen, 213
  • --his publications, 216.
  • Lanfranc, settled at Bec, 109
  • --first schoolmaster in Normandy, 109
  • --first abbot of St. Stephen's, 192.
  • Langevin, M., author of the history of Falaise, 271.
  • Langlois, M., his portrait, 12
  • --his work on Norman Antiquities, 284.
  • Le Beuf, Abbé, his opinion of Vieux, 222.
  • Le Brasseur, his account of the statues of four canons at Evreux, 70.
  • Léproserie de Beauîleu, 223.
  • Letter, original, from Princess Borghese, 151.
  • Library, public, at Caen, 210.
  • Lisieux, situation and trade of, 128
  • --its see suppressed in 1801, 128
  • --cathedral, 129
  • --tomb in cathedral, 133
  • --town probably founded in the sixth century, 141
  • --ancient names of, 141
  • --history of, 142
  • --church of St. Jacques, 137.
  • Littleton, Lord, his opinion of the Bayeux tapestry, 237.
  • Louviers, treaty of, 61
  • --population, 286
  • --church, 287
  • --house of knights templars, 288
  • --history, 288.

M.

  • Magneville, font at, 301.
  • Malherbe, native of Caen, 215.
  • Mallet, Anthony, his statement of Hennuyer's saving the Calvinists, 137.
  • Maréchal de Belle Isle, his monument, 293.
  • Margaret of Burgundy, immured in Château Gaillard, 63.
  • Marigny, Enguerrand de, buried at Ecouis, 65
  • --his mausoleum destroyed at the revolution, 66.
  • Marriage ceremony, in France, 98.
  • Matilda, wife of the Conqueror, supposed portrait of, 187
  • --her seal 188
  • --buried in the church of the Trinity, 189
  • --her tomb destroyed by the Huguenots, 189
  • --her remains lately found and new tomb raised, 189.
  • Maud, Empress, her expostulations with her father as to the place of her burial, 111.
  • Mazarine, Cardinal, abbot of St. Stephen's, 193.
  • Melons, cultivated on a large scale, near Lisieux, 127.
  • Misereres, sculptured, in Bayeux cathedral, 252.
  • Misletoe, commonly hung over inn-doors, near Caen, 227.
  • Money, struck by the chapter of Bayeux, how marked, 261.
  • Montfaucon, his engravings of the portraits of the Conqueror and his family, 210.
  • Montfort, castle of, 93.
  • Moulineaux, church of, 102.
  • Mount Phaunus, temple of, near Bayeux, 227.
  • Museum, at Caen, 210.
  • Musicians, sculptured at St. Georges de Bocherville, 14.

N.

  • Napoléon, establishment formed by him at the pass of Coupe Gorge, 155
  • --his attempt to make a naval station at Caen, 160.
  • Navarre, kings of, lords of Evreux, 83.
  • Navarre, Château de, 86.
  • Næomagus Viducassium, probably the modern Bayeux, 229.
  • Neomagus Lexoviorum, site of, lately discovered, 139.
  • Neufmarché, castle of, 44.
  • Normandy, divided anew, under Philip Augustus, 232.
  • Notre Dame de la Délivrande, chapel of, 297.

O.

  • Odo, bishop of Bayeux, rebuilds the cathedral, 245
  • --his life and character. 259.
  • Ordericus Vitalis, his account of the destruction of Evreux, 67
  • --his account of St. Taurinus, 72
  • --sketch of his life, 147
  • --his ecclesiastical history, 147
  • --his reflections on the death of the Conqueror, 204.
  • Ornaments on the spandrils of the arches in Bayeux cathedral, 250.
  • Oxen, breed of, near Caen, 158.

P

.

  • Paintings, fresco, in Bayeux cathedral. 251.
  • Passports, regulations respecting, in France. 154.
  • Patye, John, Canon of Cambremer, legend concerning, at Bayeux. 255.
  • Pays de Bray. 37.
  • Pistae, the site of, occupied by Pont de l'Arche. 282.
  • Pont Audemer, its situation, 89
  • --history, 90
  • --churches, 91.
  • Pont de l'Arche, seat of a palace under Charles the Bald, 282
  • --origin of the name, 282
  • --church, 285.
  • Portraits, of the Conqueror and family, 209.
  • Poussin, born at Andelys, 57
  • --if his example has been favorable to French art, 57.
  • Preaux, abbey of, 145.
  • Priory, des deux Amans, 283.

R.

  • Rabelais, his autograph, 263.
  • Reseda luteola, cultivated near Rouen, 282.
  • Richelieu, Cardinal, abbot of St. Stephen's at Caen, 193.
  • Roads in France, compared with those in England, 39.
  • Robert the Devil, his castle near Moulineaux, 103.
  • Romance, subjects borrowed from, sculptured on a capital in St. Peter's, at Caen, 179.
  • Rupierre, William of, Bishop of Lisieux, resists the power of King John, 136.

S.

  • St. Adrian, Chapel of, near Rouen, 281.
  • St. Clotilda, her fountain, at Andelys, 54
  • --still worshipped there, 54.
  • St. Evroul, abbey of, founded by William de Gerouis, 146
  • --residence of Ordericus Vitalis, 147.
  • St. Georges de Bocherville, abbey of, founded by Ralph de Tancarville, 3
  • --its history, 6
  • --abbey church described, 7
  • --sculpture in ditto, 9
  • --chapter-house, 11.
  • St. Germain, church of, at Pont Audemer, 92.
  • St. Germain de Blancherbe, church of, 224.
  • St. Gervais, church of, at Falaise, 277.
  • St. Giles, church of, at Evreux, 78.
  • St. Jacques, church of at Lisieux, 137.
  • St. John, church of, at Caen, 180.
  • St. Lascivus, bishop of Bayeux, 259.
  • St. Lupus, bishop of Bayeux, so called from destroying the wolves, 259.
  • St. Maimertus, subterranean chapel dedicated to, in Bayeux cathedal, 253.
  • St. Michael, church of, in the suburb of Vaucelles, at Caen, 181.
  • St. Nicholas, church of at Caen, 175
  • --its roof like those of the Irish stone-roofed chapels, 176.
  • St. Peter, church of at Caen, 177
  • --sculpture upon the capital of one of the columns, 179.
  • St. Philibert, founder of Jumieges, 18.
  • St. Regnobert, bishop of Bayeux, his chasuble kept in the cathedral, 258
  • --domestic animals blessed on his feast-day, 259.
  • St. Stephen, church of, at Caen, 174.
  • St. Stephen, abbey of, at Caen, its privileges, 192
  • --now used as the college, 193.
  • St. Stephen, abbey church of, at Caen, described, 194
  • --formed on the the Roman model, 195
  • --burial-place of the Conqueror, 196.
  • St. Taurinus, founder of Evreux cathedral, 71
  • --his fight with the devil, 72
  • --his shrine, 78
  • --crypt, in which he was buried, 78.
  • St. Taurinus, abbey of at Evreux, 74
  • --its privileges, 75
  • --ancient architecture in the church, 76
  • --crypt, 78.
  • St. Vitalis, his feast celebrated annually at Evreux, 73.
  • St. Ursinus, privileges enjoyed by the Canons, at Lisieux, on his vigil and feast-day, 138.
  • Saxons, established about Bayeux, where many words from their language still exist, 230.
  • Screens, of rare occurrence in French churches, 102.
  • Sculpture, in the abbey church of St. Georges de Bocherville, 9
  • --in the chapter-house of the same abbey, 11
  • --in the abbey church of Jumieges, 27
  • --on the capitals in the church at Gournay, 43
  • --on a capital in the abbey church at Bernay, 120
  • --over the high altar at Bernay, 121
  • --on a tomb in Lisieux cathedral, 133
  • --on a capital in St. Peter's at Caen, 179
  • --on the capitals of the pillars in the crypt at Bayeux cathedral, 253.
  • Seal, supposed to belong to Matilda, wife of the Conqueror, 188.
  • Sheep, Norman breed of, 127.
  • Siege, of Château Gaillard, 62.
  • Statues, in the chapter-house of the abbey of St. Georges de Bocherville, 12
  • --of William the Conqueror, at Caen, 174.
  • Stothard, C.A., his drawings of the Bayeux tapestry, 235
  • --his opinion on its antiquity, 239.
  • String-course, remarkable, in the church of Notre Dame des Prés, at Pont Audemer, 91.
  • Superstitions, still remaining in Normandy, 284.