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After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819

Chapter 47: INDEX
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About This Book

A series of epistolary reminiscences written in the years after Waterloo recounts travels through western Europe from 1815 to 1819. The narrator combines battlefield and military memories with detailed accounts of cities, landscapes, museums, and theatres, offering candid judgments on painting, sculpture, music and drama and notes on translations and linguistic pursuits. Political reflections thread the narrative, expressing sympathy for France and Napoleon and disillusionment with the postwar regime, while personal tastes—poetry, northern myths, and theatrical life—shape many descriptive passages.

INDEX

Acheron, Lake.
Adam, Major-General commands Light Brigade of General
      Sir H. Clinton's division.
Aix-la-Chapelle:
 Hotel-de-Ville;
 Cathedral;
 relics of Charlemagne;
 Napoleon's benefactions;
 overbearing demeanour of Prussian soldiers;
 Faro bank;
 interesting Tyrolese girl;
 baths.
Albanot Villa Doria,
 ancient monument.
Albany, Countess of,
 her claim to be the legitimate Queen of England;
 Alfieri's attachment to.
Alexandria: Austrian Government destroys fortifications of
Alfieri: compared with Shakespeare, Schiller, and Voltaire,
 monument erected to, by Canova;
 his sonnet to Countess of Albany.
Alsace-Lorraine: severance of, from France anticipated by Prussian
      officers.
Andernach: ruins of palace of Kings of Austrasia,
 church containing embalmed body of Emperor Valentinian;
 crossing of Rhine by Julius Caesar at.
Angoulême, Duchesse d': temperament and religious fanaticism of.
Antwerp: English families fly from Brussels to.
Archenholz: historian of the Seven Years' War.
Army of the Loire: exemplary conduct of, when disbanded.
Arona: colossal statue of St Charles Borromeus at.
Austria: fluctuations in the value of the paper currency of
      Napoleon's policy as regarded.
Avernus, Lake.

Baciocchi, Princess Elise: sister of Napoleon and Sovereign of Lucca.
Baffo, Venetian poet.
Baiae: baths of Nero,
 ruins of temples;
 the Styx;
 Elysian Fields.
Belgium:
 dislike to severance from France;
 feeling towards Holland;
 attachment to Napoleon;
 preparations for the Campaign;
 all inhabitants requisitioned for the repair of fortifications.
Berlin: occupation of, after Jena,
 excellent conduct of French troops of occupation;
 excesses committed by troops of Rhenish Confederation;
 insolent conduct of troops raised by Prince of Isenburg;
 art treasures of, respected by French Republican Armies;
 Unter den Linden;
 Brandenburger Thor;
 public buildings;
 streets;
 statues of great men in the Wilhelm Platz;
 Churches;
 the officers of the Army;
 anecdote of Blucher.
Bern: attempts in 1815 to regain possession of the Canton de Vaud.
Bigottini: fine performance at the Grand Opera, Paris.
Bingen: Mausethurm,
 Bishop Hatto.
Blacas, Vicomte de: at Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent.
Blucher: popularity of, in London,
 encourages the excesses of his soldiery;
 nicknames of;
 narrowly escapes capture at Ligny;
 saves English at Hougoumont;
 anecdote related of.
Bohemia: dialect of.
Bologna: arcades,
 remarkable picture in gallery of Count Marescalchi;
 leaning tower;
 lady-professor of Greek;
 Carbonari;
 theatre;
 women;
 barbarous dialect.
Bonn:
 Electoral palace;
 Roman antiquity;
 legends of the Sieben Gebirge;
 Das Heimliche Gericht.
Bordas, M, politics of.
Borgo San Donino, remarkable highway robbery at.
Borromean Islands, splendid villa in Isola Bella.
Bourbons, the: want of patriotism of the Duc de Berri,
 their injudicious conduct;
 Louis XVIII and Monsieur at Ghent;
 amusing nickname of Louis XVIII;
 dislike of the French people to;
 their atrocious policy;
 send emissaries to South of France from Coblentz;
 unpopularity of;
 fulsome adulation of;
 cause removal of Sismondi from Geneva;
 character of royal families of France, Spain, and Naples.
Brussels: description of,
 historical associations;
 Place du Sablon, celebrated fountain;
 theatres;
 humanity of inhabitants of, to the wounded after Waterloo.

Caffarelli, Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.
Canova, works of, in St Peter's,
 master-pieces in his atelier in Rome;
 character of his genius.
Capellen, Baron de,
 proclamation of, to the inhabitants of Brussels.
Capua,
 thievishness of lower classes of.
Carbonari, degrees and initiation,
 object;
 meaning of name.
Castlereagh, Lord: insolent letter of, respecting King of Saxony.
Catalani: singing of.
Ceylon: Frye's travels in.
Chalon: affection felt for Napoleon in,
 Austrian officers in.
Charleroy: defeat of Prussian army at.
Chateaubriand: at the Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent.
Chatham, Earl of: indignation of, at employment of Indians in the War
      of Independence.
Clermont: Peter the Hermit preaches First Crusade in,
 petrifying well;
 Swiss regiment;
 anonymous denunciations;
 method of cleansing town.
Coblentz: monument to Marceau,
 Bourbon intrigues with Jacobins and Brissotins.
Code Napoléon: simplicity and advantages of, as compared with
      English criminal law.
Cologne: Cathedral,
 the three kings;
 the eleven thousand virgins;
 etymology of the name;
 Jean-Marie Farina.
Cremona: Gothic buildings,
 Campanile of Cathedral.
Consalvi, Cardinal: character and abilities of.
Campagna: limbs of quartered malefactors hung up on roadsides,
 armed peasants;
 the malaria.

David: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg.
De l'Epée, Abbé: founder of the Institution of the Sourds-Muets.
Dessaix: Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.
De Watteville: disbands his army.
Delille, Abbé, his poetry.
De Boigne, General: his great services to Scindiah,
 unjustly accused of treachery towards Tippoo Sahb.
Didier: handed over by the Sardinian Government to the French,
 his execution at Grenoble.
Dijon: the town,
 manufactories of.
Dionigi, Mme: literary and artistic attainments of.
D'Orfei, Mme.
Dresden: The Japanischer Palast,
 music in;
 Prince Galhitzin;
 the King;
 bridge over the Elbe;
 Marshal Davoust;
 Grosser Garten;
 Ressource Club;
 etiquette;
 title of "Rath";
 theatres;
 beds;
 scholars.
Duchesnois, Mlle: fine acting of.

Egypt: striking testimony to the good done by the French in. Ehrenbreitstein: flying bridge, great natural strength; beauty of women of. Ellis, Col. Sir H.: perishes at Waterloo. Emigrés, the: incorrigibility of; ingratitude to Napoleon; their foolish expectations; efforts to cause restoration of lands formerly theirs. Ens: whirlpool; the Waternixie. Erfurt: legend of Count Gleichen. Espinassy, General: republican principles of. Eton: principles instilled into boys at. Eustace, Mr: examples of his credulity and bigotry.

Ferrara:
 Hugo and Parisina;
 the Po;
 relics of Ariosto;
 MSS of Ariosto, Tasso, Guarini;
 Hospital of St Anna.
Firmin: acting of.
Fleurus: Prussian army defeated at.
Florence:
 the Duomo;
 Battisterio;
 il Sasso di Dante;
 theatres;
 public buildings;
 statues;
 Gallery;
 Venus;
 de Medici;
 paintings and sculpture;
 portraits of sovereigns;
 Roman antiquities;
 remarkable imitations in wax of human anatomy;
 Ponte Vecchio;
 street paving;
 thickness of walls of houses;
 Palazzo Pitti;
 Canova's Venus;
 Boboli Gardens;
 Cascino;
 beauty of the women;
 Pegasus;
 Italian fondness for gaudy colours;
 Canova's monument to Alfieri;
 Church of Santa Croce;
 the Florentine Westminster Abbey;
 academies;
 La Crusca;
 English travellers;
 Lord Dillon;
 story illustrating Florentine life.
Fouché: complains of the conduct of the Allies.
Frankfort:
 Venus Vulgivaga;
 Jews;
 cathedral;
 inauguration of Roman Caesars in the Römer;
 the Golden Bull;
 portraits of the Emperors;
 theatre;
 adaptation of German language to music;
 political opinion in;
 dislike to Austria.
French Revolution: worst excesses of, surpassed.

Galileo: monument erected to, in church of Santa Croce.
Gauthier, M.: exiled to Lausanne.
Geneva: scenery,
 Fort de l'Écluse;
 arcades;
 J.J. Rousseau;
 Calvin;
 Servetus;
 sentiments of Genevese towards Napoleon and the Revolution;
 literary aptitude of Genevese;
 attachment to their country;
 the women;
 French refugees refused an asylum in;
 admitted into Helvetic Confederation.
Genoa: the women of,
 peculiarities of the streets;
 ducal palace;
 Columbus;
 bridge of Carignano;
 churches.
Georges, Mlle: fine acting of,
 her rendering of "Agrippina";
 plays the part of "Clytemnestra," supported by her sister as "Iphigénie".
Ghent: Court of Louis XVIII at.
Girolamo, Signor: anecdote of.
Godesberg: interesting ruins near.
Granet: remarkable pictures by.
Grassini: singing of.
Grillparzer, author of the tragedy "Sappho".
Grotto of Pausilippo.
Grotto del Cane.
Guérin: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg.
Guillotine, the.

Helvetic Confederation: guaranteed by the Allied Powers in 1814,
 Geneva admitted into.
Herculaneum.
Hockheim; Rhenish wines.
Holland: feeling towards the House of Orange,
 regret at loss of Cape of Good Hope and Ceylon.
Hougoumont: Bulow and Blucher march to the assistance of the English at
      devastation of.
Hulin, General: cashiers a Prussian officer in the French service.

India: Frye's travels in. Innspruck: the Hofkirche, statues of kings and princes connected with Maximilian I.

Kléber: statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.
Klingmann, Philipp: plot of his tragedy "Faust".

Labédoyère: execution of.
Lacoste: acts as Napoleon's guide at Waterloo.
Lafayette: rebukes British Commissioner at the Conference.
Lafond: acting of.
Lafontaine, Augustus: comparison of works of, with the "Nouvelle Heloise"
      of Rousseau.
La Harpe, General: influences Emperor of Russia in favour of the Vaudois.
Lamarque: sent by the Convention to arrest Dumouriez,
 delivered over to the Austrians;
 votes for Napoleon.
Landshut: Church of St Martin at.
Language: influence of, upon the poetry and plays of Italy, France,
      England and Germany.
Lausanne: steep ascents,
 beauty of environs;
 Republican principles of;
 intolerant discourse of minister.
Leipzig: Saxon troops go over to the Mies during the battle of,
 the University;
 unpopularity of the English in.
Leghorn: Hebrew families in,
 Don Felipe III;
 Smollett's tomb.
Liége: situation of,
 coal-pits near;
 commerce with Holland;
 fortifications;
 destroyed by Joseph II.
Linz: beauty of the women,
 curious incident;
 learned innkeepers.
Lodi: interesting model in the Hôtel des Invalides of battle of.
Louvre: works of art in,
 stripping of, by the Allies.
Lucca: female servants,
 the amoroso;
 Dante's mountain.
Lyons: buildings,
 scenery;
 feelings towards Napoleon;
 character of inhabitants;
 manufactures.

Maastricht: situation,
 Montagne de St Pierre.
Machiavelli: entombed in church of Santa Croce.
Mâcon: quai,
 wine;
 grisettes.
Maffei: his "Polyphonte" compared with that of Voltaire.
Maitland, Captain: Napolean surrenders to.
Mantua: situation,
 Cathedral;
 monuments of the Gonzagas;
 the T palace and gardens.
Marengo: the Battle of,
 Commemoration column thrown down.
Maria Louisa: ordered to quit papal territory,
 enthusiastic reception of, at Bologna;
 victim of a strange theft.
Mars, Mlle: graceful acting of.
Massieu: pupil of the Abbé Sicard.
Mayence: Cathedral,
 Citadel.
Michel Angelo: anecdote of.
Milan: Teatro della Scala,
 the Duomo;
 the women of;
 dialect;
 the Zecca;
 palace;
 Ambrosian Library;
 hospital;
 Teatro Olimpico;
 Porta del Sempione;
 Italian comedy and audiences;
 Teatro Girolamo;
 Milanese twang;
 ballet;
 acting of La Pallerini.
Mittenwald: great raft,
 interesting journey.
Mölk: tradition of the Devil's Wall,
 ruins of Castle of Dierenstein;
 Richard Coeur de Lion.
Mont Cenis: description of the Chaussée.
Mont St. Jean: dreadful sight on plateau of.
Montefiascone: story of the Vino d'Est.
Morice, Colonel: death at Waterloo.
Munich: the King,
 national theatre;
 social life in;
 female head-dress.
Murat: Italian opinion of.

Namur: situation of,
 Citadel demolished by Joseph II;
 complaints against.
Prussian soldiery.
Napoleon: takes tribute of works of art from vanquished Governments,
 calumniated by the émigrés;
 unjust aspersions on;
 narrow escape from capture;
 confident of success before Waterloo;
 constructs Chaussée of Mont Cenis.
Naples:
 life of a man of fashion in;
 Etruscan vases and papyri in museum;
 theatres;
 Pulcinello;
 social advantages;
 lazzaroni;
 dialect;
 effect of general ignorance.
Nelson, Lord: conduct towards Caraccioli,
Neuwied: University of.
Ney, Marshall: Wellington and Emperor of Russia refuse to interfere
      in favour of

Padua:
 University;
 Church of St Anthony;
 Palazzo della Giustizia;
 tomb of Livy.
Paris: Louis XVIII in,
 Kotzebue on the Palais Royal;
 Café Montausier;
 the Louvre;
 statues and paintings collected by the French Government;
 productions at the Grand Opera;
 Column of the Place Vendôme;
 Gardens of the Tuileries;
 Chamber of Deputies;
 the Invalides;
 models of the fortresses of France;
 Picture Gallery of the Palais du Luxembourg;
 frequency of quarrels between French and Prussian officers in the;
 Palais Royal;
 behaviour of English officers in;
 masterpieces performed in the Théâtre français;
 Ney shot in the Gardens of the Luxembourg.
Parma: "L'Amfiteatro Farnese",
  paintings;
  birthplace of Cassius.
Passau: junction of the Danube, Inn and Illst.
Perugia.
Pescia,
 advantages of living in.
Picton, Lieut-Genl Sir T.: perishes at Waterloo.
Piedmont: character of the lower classes of.
Pillnitz:
 the palace;
 Treaty of.
Pisa.
Pitt: credited with the invention of the sinking fund.
Pius VII: character and virtues of.
Pompeii:
 amphitheatre;
 houses;
 Temple of Isis;
 Praetorium;
 antiquities removed to Museum of Portici.
Pontine Marshes.
Prague: situation,
 bridge over the Mulda;
 remarkable statue;
 Jews;
 palaces of the Wallensteins and Colloredos;
 St John Nepomucene;
 Joseph II's ingenious method of extorting money from the Jews;
 Catalani;
 story of the Duchess Libussa.

Rafaelli: mosaic work of.
Rho: ancient tree.
Rome: censorship of books at the Dogana,
 Coliseum;
 Arch of Constantine;
 Via Sacra—excavations;
 Tarpeian Rock;
 Capitol;
 St Peter's;
 anecdote of Michel Angelo;
 statue of St Peter;
 masterpieces of sculpture in Capitoline Museum;
 Transteverini;
 effect of the settling of foreign artists in;
 Santa Maria Maggiore;
 Church of St John Lateran;
 Egyptian obelisk;
 La Scala Santa;
 Quirinal;
 fountains;
 Column of Trajan;
 baths of Diocletian;
 theatres;
 masterpieces of art in the Vatican Museum;
 statue of Jupiter Capitolinus;
 stanze di Rafaello;
 Appian Road;
 social life in;
 the Avvocati;
 Papal Government;
 post office defalcations;
 the Carnival;
 races in the Corso;
 masquerades;
 Sovereigns and persons of distinction living in Rome in 1818;
 Easter in;
 Swiss Guard;
 Noble Guard;
 papal benediction;
 illumination of St Peter's;
 fireworks from Castle of St Angelo;
 the brigand Barbone;
 his wife.

Savoy: character of inhabitants of.
Schönbrunn: anecdote of Napoleon's son.
Schuyler, General: his reproof of General Burgoyne.
Scindiah: career of.
Sgricci, Signor: his genius for improvisation.
Sicard, Abbeé; director of the Institution of the Sourds-Muets,
eulogises Sir Sidney Smith.
Sienna: cathedral,
 Piccolomini monument;
 dialect.
Simplon: road over the,
 Chaussée;
 maisons de refuge.
Sismondi,
 the historian banished from Geneva.
Smith, Lucius F.: friend of De Boigne.
Smith, Sir Sidney: his eulogy of the Abbé Sicard.
Spoleto: ruins of ancient buildings.
St Cloud: favourite residence of Napoleon.
St Eustatius: pillaged by Admiral Rodney.
St Germain: depôt for articles plundered by Prussian officers.
St Helena: injustice of Napoleon's banishment to.
Stewart, Lord: conduct of, at Conference of French Commissioners
      with the Allies.

Taddei, Rosa: her talent for improvisation.
Talma, his ailing at the Théâtre Français.
Thorwaldsen: character of his genius.
Tivoli: the Villa d'Este,
 Adrian's Villa.
Tölz: remarkable groups of figures in wood, representing
      history of Christ.
Tournay,
 citadel of.
Trévoux: scenery on the road between Mâcon and,
 hotel-keeper's beautiful daughter.
Turin: Chapelle du Saint Suaire,
 remarkable works of art in;
 the King of Sardinia.
Tuscany: contrast with papal dominions,
 pronunciation;
 peasantry;
 fondness of Tuscan women for dress;
 feeling towards Napoleon in;
 character of the people;
 house of Americo Vespucci.
Tyrol, the: general description of,
 dress of the peasant women.

Valais: crétins of.
Vaud, Canton de: character of inhabitants of,
 gratitude to France;
 democratic spirit;
 La Harpe;
 defends its independence;
 hatred of French Royalists to.
Velino: remarkable cascade.
Venice: Canale Grande,
 Rialto;
 palaces of great families;
 the Merceria;
 water-fête;
 Piazza di San Marco;
 Church of St Mark;
 Campanile;
 variety of costumes in;
 dialect;
 social life in;
 Doge's palace;
 theatres;
 gondolas.
Verbruggen, H.: work of, in church of St Gudule, Brussels.
Verona: amphitheatre,
 Palladio;
 Scala family;
 social advantages in.
Versailles: magnificence of.
"Vertraute Briefe" the.
Vesuvius: eruptions,
 lava.
Vicenza.
Vienna: Art treasures of, respected by French Republican armies,
 great raft;
 streets;
 Cathedral;
 Hofburg;
 Congress of;
 Wechselbank;
 Belvedere Palace;
 Prater;
 theatres.
Visconte, Galeazzo: builds church of the Certosa.
Volnais, Mlle: Acting of.
Voltaire: his play, "Mérope",
 his benefactions to Ferney;
 relics of;
 portraits of contemporaries in his château.

Walker, Adam: his lectures to Etonians stopped.
Wardle, Col.: republican principles of,
 anonymous denunciation of.
Waterloo: French officer's remarks on.
Wellington: his confidence in the result of the campaign,
 gallantry of;
 checks frequency of corporal punishment in the army.
Wilson, Maj.-Genl: accompanies Frye on a tour through the theatre of War.
Wilson, Sir R.: his charges against Napoleon.
Wirion: removed from office by Napoleon.

York, Duke of,
 opposes frequent corporal punishment in the Army.

Zedera, Chevalier: political dispute with Genevese, his journey with Frye to Italy; his parting with Frye.