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American lace & lace-makers

Chapter 2: LIST OF PLATES, LACE-MAKERS, AND OWNERS OF ORIGINALS
By Emily Noyes Vanderpoel
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About This Book

An illustrated survey of lace and its makers in America that pairs descriptive chapters with extensive plates and captions to record techniques, patterns, and finished garments. The text explains working methods such as bobbin lace, darned and embroidered nets, and trimming laces, and considers regional and cultural varieties ranging from folk and indigenous handwork to imported styles adapted locally. Technical notes and pattern details clarify materials, tools, and construction, while inventories of museum and private holdings document notable examples. Overall, the volume serves both as a catalogue of surviving pieces and a practical guide to understanding the craft’s methods and regional expressions.

LIST OF PLATES, LACE-MAKERS, AND OWNERS OF ORIGINALS

In this List, the following abbreviations are used:

A.M.N.H. = American Museum of Natural History, New York City.

E.M. = Essex Museum, Salem, Massachusetts.

L.H.S. = Litchfield Historical Society, Litchfield, Connecticut.

M.F.A. = Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Massachusetts.

M.M.A. = Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City.

S.C.I.L.A. = Sybil Carter Indian Lace Association, New York City.

Number and Subject Maker or Source Ownership
Frontispiece. Black net, embroidered with colored carnations Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
1. Lace-bark tree lace Jamaica Miss Edith Beach
2. (1) Peruvian lace bag Peruvian A.M.N.H.
(2) Peruvian lace Peruvian; prehistoric A.M.N.H.
3. Peruvian lace Peruvian; ancient Miss Marian Powys
4. Eight lace bags Balienti Indians A.M.N.H.
5. Lace bag Balienti Indians A.M.N.H.
6. Details of lace bags Balienti Indians A.M.N.H.
7. Four lace bags Honduras Indians A.M.N.H.
8. Lace headdress Hopi Indian Miss Frances Morris
9. (1) Porto Rican lace An aged Porto Rican woman L.H.S.
(2) Porto Rican pillow and bobbin lace Unknown L.H.S.
(3) Porto Rican pillow and bobbin lace Unknown L.H.S.
10. Linen cut-work hand bag Oneida Indians S.C.I.L.A.
11. Bobbin lace pillow Oneida Indians cover S.C.I.L.A.
12. Bobbin lace bed-spread Oneida Indians S.C.I.L.A.
13. Detail of the same
14. Lace pillow with bobbins Lydia Lakeman Miss Sarah E. Lakeman
15. Ipswich patterns and laces Sarah Sutton Russell and Mrs. Thomas Caldwell Miss Sarah E. Lakeman
16. Ipswich laces Unknown Miss Sarah E. Lakeman
17. Réseaux of various laces Unknown E.M.
18. Bobbins, thread, and samples of Limerick Unknown E.M.
19. Samples of darned laces Mabel Roberts (Mrs. Hezekiah Thompson) Miss Esther H. Thompson
20. Additional samples of darned laces Mabel Roberts (Mrs. Hezekiah Thompson) Miss Esther H. Thompson
21. Embroidered collar Unknown Miss Esther H. Thompson
22. Lace guimpe Unknown Miss Esther H. Thompson
23. English darned net Ipswich, England laces Mrs. Guy Antrobus (Mary Symonds)
24. Darned net veil Mrs. Thomas L. Rushmore M.M.A.
25. White net dress skirt Cornelia Kingsland (Mrs. Hatherly Barstow) M.M.A.
26. White lace veil Catherine Roosevelt Kissam (Mrs. Francis Armstrong Livingston) Miss Helena Knox
27. Detail of the same
28. Front of white lace cap Probably Catherine Roosevelt Kissam (Mrs. Francis Armstrong Livingston) Miss Helena Knox
29. Crown of the same
30. White lace veil Mary W. Peck (Mrs. Edward D. Mansfield) L.H.S.
31. Detail of the same
32. White lace veil Elizabeth Hannah Canfield (Mrs. Frederick Augustus Tallmadge) L.H.S.
33. Detail of the same
34. Detail of white veil Probably Ellen McBride (Mrs. Aaron Vanderpoel) L.H.S.
35. Lace cap Elizabeth Hannah Canfield (Mrs. Frederick Augustus Tallmadge) L.H.S.
36. Limerick trimming lace Limerick, Ireland L.H.S.
37. White lace veil Sarah Elizabeth Johnson (Mrs. George Pollock Devereux) Miss Marianna Townsend
38. Detail of the same
39. Detail of a second veil by the same hand Sarah Elizabeth Johnson (Mrs. George Pollock Devereux) Miss Marianna Townsend
40. English wedding veil An unknown member of the Stodart family Miss Clara Ray
41. White lace veil Marietta, or Mary, Smith L.H.S.
42. Detail of the same
43. Second detail of the same
44. Black net shawl Mrs. John Savage (Miss Barringer) L.H.S.
45. Detail of the same
46. (1) Black trimming lace Elizabeth, or Betsey, Peck (Mrs. Camp Newton) Mrs. Samuel H. Street
(2) Black trimming lace Pamela Parsons Mrs. Charles B. Curtis
47. Black lace veil An unknown member of the Buel family L.H.S.
48. Detail of the same
49. Black lace veil Polly Marsh Mrs. Lewis Marsh
50. Detail of a second veil by the same hand Polly Marsh Mrs. Lewis Marsh
51. Black lace veil Either Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) or Elizabeth Hannah Canfield (Mrs. Frederick Augustus Tallmadge) L.H.S.
52. Detail of the same
53. Detail of black lace veil Louisa Lewis (Mrs. Henry Phelps) L.H.S.
54. Black lace veil Elizabeth Hannah Canfield (Mrs. Frederick Augustus Tallmadge) L.H.S.
55. Detail of the same
56. Lace pillow and bobbins with black trimming lace Nina Hall Brisbane L.H.S.
57. Costume of 1825 Veil by Mary Bacon (Mrs. Chauncey Whittlesey) Mrs. Edward W. Preston
58. Lace cap Elsie Philips M.F.A.
59. Lace flounce on dress skirt Charlotte Webster (Mrs. Charles Sever) M.F.A.
60. Lace veil Delia I. Beals M.F.A.
61. Detail of the same
62. Embroidered kerchief Rachel Leonard M.F.A.
63. Infant’s embroidered cap Unknown Miss Katherine Egbert
64. Embroidered waistcoat Unknown Mr. William S. Eaton
65. Wedding-dress and marriage reception-dress Catherine Van Houten (Mrs. Ralph Doremus) Mrs. William Nelson
66. Detail of skirt of wedding-dress in the preceding
67. Details of waist of the same
68. Wedding veil Catherine Van Houten (Mrs. Ralph Doremus) Mrs. William Nelson
69. Lady’s and infant’s cap Catherine Van Houten (Mrs. Ralph Doremus) Mrs. William Nelson
70. Collar or cape Catherine Van Houten (Mrs. Ralph Doremus) Mrs. William Nelson
71. White lace Mary Bacon (Mrs. Chauncey Whittlesey) L.H.S.
72. Silk net wedding veil Martha Harness (Mrs. Isaac Darst) Mrs. G. Glen Gould
73. Embroidered collar Elizabeth Taylor (Mrs. Andrew Perkins) L.H.S.
74. (1) Lace cap Sybil (Bradley) Hotchkiss Mrs. Samuel H. Street
(2) Embroidered collar Elizabeth, or Betsey, Peck Mrs. Samuel H. Street
75. Fichu of Irish lace Sarah McCoon Vail (Mrs. George Gould) L.H.S.
76. Patterns for borders Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
77. Design for cap Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
78. Copy of design from Paris Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
79. Ruffle embroidered for wedding petticoat Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
80. Design for embroidery Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
81. India mull dress Design by Caroline Canfield (Mrs. William Mackay) L.H.S.
82. India mull dress Ruth Freeman Packard (Mrs. George Trask) Mrs. Ruth Quincy Powell
83. India mull dress skirt Louisa Lewis (Mrs. Henry Phelps) L.H.S.
84. India mull dress skirt Louisa Lewis (Mrs. Henry Phelps) L.H.S.
85. Handkerchief Eliza (Brock) Mitchell Miss Edith Eliot
86. Bed curtains Polly Cheney L.H.S.
87. Waist of infant’s dress Elizabeth W. Davenport L.H.S.
88. Front of skirt of the same
89. Infant’s dress Mary W. Peck (Mrs. Edward D. Mansfield) L.H.S.
90. Six infant’s caps Mary Ann Laidlaw (Mrs. Henry Buel) Mrs. Francis H. Blake and Miss Katharine L. Buel
91. (1) Knitted lace Mrs. Wilson Tingley White Mrs. Charles William Follett
(2) Pillow lace A California Indian girl L.H.S.
(3) Pillow lace insertion Probably Sarah Chedsey (Mrs. Samuel Alling) L.H.S.
92. Black lace scarf Pamela Parsons Mrs. Charles B. Curtis
93. Infant’s cap Isabella Woodbridge Sheldon (Mrs. George Lecky Cornell) Mrs. Charles B. Curtis
94. Altar cloth of Greek design Isabel Douglas Curtis (Mrs. Charles B. Curtis) Christ Church, Rye
95. Detail of the same
96. Tape lace Isabel Douglas Curtis (Mrs. Charles B. Curtis) L.H.S.
97. Tape lace Rachel Tracy Noyes (Mrs. Charles Edward Whitehead) L.H.S.
98. Tape lace and darned net Esther Thompson Miss Esther H. Thompson
99. Tape laces Mrs. Butterworth Miss Esther H. Thompson
100. Table cover Mrs. Hannah MacLaren Shepherd-Wolff Unknown
101. Filet lace in frame Sarah Belknap (Mrs. Edward Rowland) Miss Edith Beach
102. Filet lace Elsie Belknap (Mrs. R. E. K. Whiting) Miss Edith Beach
103. Chalice-veil Margaret Taylor Johnstone Unknown
104. (1) Pattern and sample of pillow lace Edith Beach Miss Edith Beach
(2) Bobbin lace made on a pillow Edith Beach Miss Edith Beach
105. Pillow lace for a fan Edith Beach Miss Edith Beach
106. Venetian point lace and pattern Edith Beach Miss Edith Beach
107. (1) Machine-made net Dean Walker Miss Sophia A. Walker
(2) Machine-made net with stitches dropped Dean Walker Miss Sophia A. Walker
108. (1) Trimming lace on machine-made net Clarissa Richardson Miss Sophia A. Walker
(2) Trimming lace on machine-made net Julia Adams (Mrs. Horatio Mason) Miss Sophia A. Walker
109. Cap embroidered on machine-made net Julia Adams (Mrs. Horatio Mason) Miss Sophia A. Walker
110. Medal awarded to Dean Walker William T. Walker