An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House / Including the Details of the Erection and Peculiar Structure of That Edifice; to Which Is Prefixed a Historical View of the Institution and Progress of the Northern Light-Houses

But, to enable the reader to form a comparative estimate of the difficulties attending the early stages of the Carr Rock Beacon, with those of the Bell Rock Light-house, it may be noticed, that the period which the artificers were actually at work upon the Carr Rock, as ascertained by the foreman during the first season, or the summer of 1813, was 41 hours; and in 1814, after the experience of one year’s work, these were only extended to 53 hours. Now, if we compare 1807 and 1808, the two first years’ work at the Bell Rock, we find the artificers were respectively about 180 and 265 hours upon that rock. The first two years at the Carr Rock were entirely occupied in excavating and preparing the foundation, and in laying 10 stones, or the half-course of masonry, which brings the foundation to a uniform level, for the first entire course of the building, as shewn in Plate II.; while, at the Bell Rock, in the two first seasons three courses were erected, as represented in Plate IX., of a building situate 12 miles from the shore, and measuring 42 feet in diameter at the base, besides the erection of a Beacon-house or Barrack for the workmen. The establishment for the works at the Bell Rock was of course on a much larger scale than that of the Carr Rock; but still the latter was equally effective, and the same apparatus, artificers and seamen, were employed at both.

During the third year’s work, or 1815, the second course of the masonry was completed upon the Carr, and nine stones of the third course had been got laid by the 3d of October, when a heavy ground-swell obliged the artificers precipitately to leave the rock and take to their boats. This swell was immediately accompanied by a gale of easterly wind, and before the cement had taken bond or firmness, the surge of the sea washed it out; when the oaken trenails, used as a temporary fixture during the progress of the work, were wrenched off, and the stone-joggles broken asunder. The whole of the nine blocks of stone were thus swept off the rock and lost in deep water, though they had been completely dove-tailed, and fitted on the same principles as the masonry of the Bell Rock Light-house, where not a single stone was lost during the whole progress of the work.

In the year 1816, or fourth season, the work was continued till the month of November, when the building had attained the height of about 20 feet, or the 16th course, and still wanting 18 courses to complete the masonry. In this state, it was left till the following season, having been previously loaded with about four tons of lead, cast in suitable pieces, and suspended within the void or central hollow of the building. The operations of the fourth season had been also much retarded by several untoward accidents. In particular, a heavy gale overtook the workmen while they were laying the 7th course, which obliged them to leave the rock before the precautionary measures could be taken, for closing and completing the work immediately in hand; in consequence of which, the stones on the eastern, or weather-side of this course, were lifted off their bases, the oaken trenails broken, and five of the blocks of stone swept away. At another period, the Pozzolano mortar of the beds of two of the stones was washed out, and so much injured, that the stones required to be lifted and relaid. The works were this season intended to have been closed early in the month of October, when another unlucky gale sprung up, just as the sixteenth course had been laid, which lifted seven of the stones off their beds; but they were fortunately held by the oaken trenails, and in this state they remained for about three weeks, before a landing could possibly be effected, to replace them.

In the month of June 1817, the fifth year’s work was begun, and the remaining courses of the masonry were built; but in the month of November, the coast was visited with a gale of wind at south-east, accompanied with a heavy swell of sea, which, unfortunately, washed down the upper part of the building, and reduced it to the height of the fifth course, which formed part of the fourth year’s work.

Instead, therefore, of completing this Beacon with masonry, as had been originally intended, and providing the Machine and large Bell, which was to have measured 5 feet across the mouth, to be tolled by the alternate rise and fall of the tide, it now became a matter of consideration in what form the upper part of this design should be finished. The Board ultimately determined on the erection of six columns of cast-iron upon the remaining courses of masonry. These columns are put together with spigot and facet joints, strongly connected with collars and horizontal bars of malleable iron; the whole terminating with a cast-iron ball, formed in ribs, elevated about 25 feet above the medium level of the sea. In this manner the Carr Rock Beacon was at length completed, in the month of September 1821, after six years work. The following is the notice and description of it given to the public:

The form and construction of the Carr Rock Beacon, both as originally intended, and ultimately executed, will be better understood by referring to Plate II., and to the annexed Description of the Plates. The motion to be given to the bell-apparatus, or tide-machine, was to be effected by admitting the sea water through a small aperture, of three inches in diameter, perforated in the solid masonry, communicating with a cylindrical chamber, in the centre of the building, measuring two feet in diameter, in which a float or metallic air-tank, was to rise and fall with the tide. The train of machinery for this apparatus was calculated for a perpendicular rise of only six feet, being equal to the lowest neap-tides on this coast. During the period of flood-tide, the air-vessel, in its elevation, by the pressure of the water, was to give motion to machinery for tolling the bell, and winding up a weight; which last, in its descent, during ebb-tide, was to continue the motion of the machine, until the flood-tide again returned to perform the joint operation of tolling the bell and raising the weight. A working model of a machine upon this principle having been constructed, it was kept in motion for a period equal to several months: this was effected by water run through a succession of tanks, raised by a pump from the lower one to the higher, thus producing the effect of flood and ebb tides. The time during which this apparatus was in action, having been ascertained by an index, a constant attendance upon the machine, during this protracted experiment, became unnecessary.

The upper termination of the Beacon, in its present form, does not admit of the application of the tide-machine with the bell-apparatus. Experiments as applicable to this have, however, been tried with a wind-instrument, to be sounded by the pressure of the sea water; but it has not succeeded to the extent that seems necessary for a purpose of this kind. We have indeed thought, that the application of pressure as a power, communicated by the waters of the ocean, in mechanical operations, might be carried to almost any extent, by simply providing a chamber or dock, large enough for the reception of a float or vessel, of dimensions equivalent to the force required. This description of machinery is more particularly applicable in situations where the tides have a great rise, as in the Solway Firth , Bristol Channel, and other parts of the British seas; and at St Malo, on the coast of France.

A Beacon of any form, unprovided with a light, must always be considered an imperfect land-mark, and therefore various modes have been contemplated, for more completely pointing out the position of the Carr Rock. It has been proposed that phosphoric lights should be exhibited from the top of the Building. This object, however, would be more certainly accomplished, by the erection of leading lights, upon the Island of May and Mainland of Fife. But these, with other plans which have been under the writer’s consideration, would necessarily be attended with a great additional expence, which, in the present instance, it is not thought advisable to incur.

Owing to the necessarily slow progress of the operations at the Carr Rock, the works were carried on partly in connection with the new Light-house on the Isle of May, and with the assistance of the ordinary shipping of the Light-house establishment. This renders it difficult to give a distinct estimate of the expence of the Beacon; but in so far as it can be collected, it may be stated, including all charges, at about L. 5000.

Stations on the Coast of Scotland, where Light-houses have been suggested as still necessary.

Having now taken notice of the works of the Light-house Board, so far as they have been completed, up to and including part of the year 1823. We may farther advert to the Light-house on the Rhins of Ilay, founded on the 23d of August last. The Northern Light-houses accordingly amount to seventeen, erected at fourteen stations; and besides these, there are the Beacons of North Ronaldsay and the Carr Rock. The position of these establishments has not been chosen in regard to their respective distances from each other, but agreeably to the commercial importance and dangers connected with particular parts of the coast. Six of them, for instance, are on the Friths of Forth and Clyde, at not more than from 20 to 25 miles apart; while Kinnaird-Head, on the east coast, is about 72 miles from the Bell Rock, and 70 miles from the Pentland Skerries. The Light-house upon Island Glass, is about 130 miles south-west from the Pentland Skerries, and 120 miles northward from the Rhins of Ilay, being a stretch of 250 miles of coast, with only one Light-house intervening. It must therefore be obvious, that fourteen Light-house stations, which include two on the Isle of Man, are too few for the Scottish coast, rendered formidable and dangerous, by a vast number of islands and sunken rocks. The Commissioners have still, accordingly, a wide field of operations before them, which they are gradually occupying, as their funds will admit, and as the demands of navigation and commercial intercourse seem to require. In the Appendix, No. I. notice is taken of the most prominent points of land on the coast, which have been brought under consideration as fit Stations for additional Light-houses; and of these, one at Buchan-Ness, on the east coast, has already been fixed on by the Board.

Constitution of the Board, and System of Management.

The affairs of the Northern Light-houses are managed by the Commissioners named in the different acts already noticed; but the direction of the whole concerns of the establishment almost entirely devolves upon the Commissioners resident in Edinburgh, viz. The Lord Advocate and Solicitor-General, the Lord Provost, and Senior Magistrate of that City, and the different Sheriffs, Commissioners ex officio, who attend the Courts of Law. They hold frequent meetings, and bestow their time and labour without any salary or remuneration whatever. At their Meetings, all matters falling under the economy, and connected with the arrangement of the Light-houses, are regulated; full powers being conferred upon them as a Board to erect and maintain such additional Light-houses as they shall deem necessary; so that the system in this respect will at no very distant period be rendered complete.

By the Statutes, the general rate of duty upon British ships is 2d. per register ton for passing one of, or all the Scottish Lights; together with certain local duties of ½d. per ton, connected with the Lights of May and Inchkeith; and for vessels which only pass the Lights on the Isle of Man, one farthing per ton is the sole duty. Foreign ships in all cases pay double rates. These duties are exigible at all the Ports in the United Kingdom, and are remitted to the General Collector at Edinburgh, at the end of three or six months, according to the extent of the respective collections.

The application of the Funds, and disposal of the Surplus, are fixed by the Acts; which also require, that an account of the moneys received and expended by the Board, be annually presented to the Lords of the Treasury, the Convention of Royal Burghs of Scotland, and that two copies be sent to the Board of Customs at Edinburgh, to be laid before both Houses of Parliament.

The only permanent expence of management in the way of remuneration to the Officers of the Board, are a salary of L. 500 to the Engineer; L. 380 to the Clerk, who is also Cashier, and a fee of 50 guineas to the Auditor or Accountant. The revenue of the Board may be stated at about L. 24,000 yearly; and as the department of the Engineer is unconnected with the financial arrangements, this fund is, in fact, managed for about L. 432, 10s. per annum.

As to the practical arrangement, the Engineer visits all the Light-houses annually, and Reports to the Board upon the various works and operations connected with the different Light-houses,—the conduct of the light-keepers,—and also upon the stores and supplies required for the ensuing year,—and these, when approven of, are authorised and ordered by the Commissioners. All accounts for supplies are laid before the Board, and paid twice in the year.

At each ordinary Light-house, a Principal and an Assistant Light-keeper are appointed, whose salaries are respectively L. 45, and L. 35 per annum, besides a piece of ground, not less than 10 acres, with fuel, a suit of uniform clothes every three years, and some other small perquisites. At the Bell Rock, there are four light-keepers, three of whom are always at the Light-house, while one is, by rotation, on shore at the establishment at Arbroath for the families of the light-keepers. Their salaries are respectively L. 63, and L. 57, 15s., and for each of the two ordinary Assistants L. 52, 10s. with provisions for themselves while at the Rock, and apartments for their families ashore. The light-keepers act under certain Instructions, and make Monthly Returns to the Engineer’s office, copies of which will be found under Appendix, No. I.

The shipping belonging to the Light-house service, besides attending boats, for visiting Light-houses on insulated situations, consists of a vessel of about 50 tons register, which is chiefly employed in attending the Bell Rock, to supply the house with necessaries, and relieve the light-keepers in their turn. For general service, another vessel of 140 tons is kept, which carries oil and other stores for the lights, together with fuel and necessaries, for the use of the light-keepers, and artificers, with their implements and apparatus, for making repairs at the different stations. The Engineer makes his annual voyage of inspection in this vessel, which is provided with cabins suitable for the reception of such of the Commissioners as may occasionally visit the Light-houses.

This duty has been undertaken by various members of the Board. In the Summer of 1814 a Committee, consisting of Mr Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, Mr Erskine, Sheriff of Orkney, and Mr Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, with the Engineer, made a voyage to inspect the different Light-houses already erected, as also the most prominent of the stations on the coast, suggested for the erection of Additional Lights. They sailed from Leith in the Yacht, having for their companion Mr Walter Scott, and having visited the Light-houses on the Isle of May and Bell Rock, with the establishment at Arbroath, and that upon Kinnaird-Head in Aberdeenshire, they next landed at Sumburgh-head in Shetland, on which a Light-house has since been erected. Returning southward, they visited the Light-houses on the Start Point of Sanday, and the Pentland Skerries in Orkney. Then steering westward, they landed at Cape Wrath, one of the projected Stations for a Light-house. They next touched at the Light-house on Island-Glass, one of the Harris Isles. From thence they proceeded and landed upon the Rock called Skerryvore, lying off the Island of Tiree, and were satisfied of the practicability of erecting a Light-house there. Having visited the Light-house on Ennistrahul, on the coast of Donegal, one of the Irish Lights, and inspected their own establishments on the Mull of Kantire and Isle of Pladda, the Commissioners landed at Greenock, after a voyage of nearly seven weeks.

In July 1815, Mr Hamilton and Mr Duff, accompanied by the writer, sailed in the Yacht from the Troon for Liverpool, where they were joined by Sir William Rae; and after having had a meeting with Mr Gladstone on the subject of the Lights on Man, they sailed thither, and fixed on the Stations for the Lights on that Island, and on the Calf. They then proceeded to Dublin, and communicated with the Irish Board for the affairs of Light-houses, regarding certain arrangements for the advancement of the public service committed respectively to their charge. Mr Crossthwaite, and other Members of the Irish Board, accompanied them to the Light-house upon Houth: and having visited the Tuskar Light-house, situate on an insulated rock off the coast of Wexford, they bent their course to Holyhead, landed at the Light-house on the South Stack; and on their return surveyed the operations at the Light-house at Corsewall in Galloway then building, and having visited Pladda, landed at Greenock.

In the Summer of 1818, Messrs Hamilton and Duff, with the writer, sailed from Clyde, and inspected the Light-houses of Corsewall and on the Isle and Calf of Man. The Yacht being then bound through the British Channel, they availed themselves of the opportunity to visit some of the English Light-houses, particularly the Smalls, off St David’s Head, the Longships, off the Land’s End, the Edystone, the Caskets off Alderney, Hurst Castle, Dungeness, and the North Foreland. By these voyages, the Commissioners greatly enlarged their knowledge of the important concerns entrusted to their charge. Some of them had thus seen and examined all the Light-houses already established on the coast of Scotland, and most of the Sites in contemplation for new erections on the northern parts of the Island.

ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT HOUSE

BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

ACCOUNT
OF THE
BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE.

CHAPTER I.

In the Introduction, I have given an account of the institution of the Board of Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; of the progress made in the erection of Light-houses on the coast of Scotland; the probable future operations of the Board, and the general economy or management of its affairs. I now come to treat in detail of the Bell Rock Light-house, as the chief object of this work; and, in the present chapter, I propose to give the general history, and a description of this dangerous Rock.

Name of the Rock.

There is perhaps nothing in history more arbitrary, or difficult to account for, than the origin of proper names, nor, in general, any research more unsatisfactory, than a prolix inquiry into their etymology. The charts of the nautical surveyor are the proper records for the names of places upon the sea-coast; but such maps are comparatively of late invention. The first sea-chart which we hear of in England, was that brought from Spain in 1489, by Bartholomew Columbus, to illustrate his brother’s theory of the discovery of America; and the earliest, applicable to the coast of Scotland, is the chart of the voyage of James V., from the Firth of Forth, by the Orkney and Western Islands, to the Firth of Clyde and coast of Galloway, in the year 1540. This map was published at Paris by Nicolay D’Arfiville, Seigneur Du d’Aulphinois, &c. chief Cosmographer to the King of France, in 1583; and afterwards in Edinburgh, in the year 1688, by John Adair, F. R. S., Geographer for Scotland.

The French writer gives a hydrographical description of the coast of Scotland, in relation to the Royal voyage, from Leith to the Solway Firth , noticing the distances of places, the tides, and the rocks and sand-banks, or “dangers,” as they are more generally termed, which it was necessary to avoid. In adverting to the course from Leith by the east coast to Duncansby-Head, in Caithness, he observes, “Entre Finismes [Fifeness] et la pointe nommé Redde, xii mille à l’est sud-est du costé de la dicte pointe Redde, gist un danger appelé Inchkope.” This is unquestionably the Bell Rock, the inch or island of the Cape, and with a reference to the Redhead, to the north of Aberbrothock, the highest and most remarkable point on that coast. In Adair’s collection of nautical charts, and descriptive account of the eastern coast of Scotland, published in 1703, the Bell Rock is indifferently termed Scape and Cape; and the fishermen on the shores of Angus uniformly call it the Cape Rock. In some old charts, particularly by the Dutch, whose name for a headland is kappe, it is also called skape and scaup. It does not, however, seem that any inference can be drawn from these various appellations; and, although it were to be conjectured, that the Inch Cape was, at a very remote period, permanently above water, and in all respects an island, the most rational hypothesis would still remain, and be indeed confirmed, that this name was given it on account of the relation it bore, especially in situation, to the cape of Redhead.

It is perhaps more difficult to assign the true origin for the modern term of Bell Rock, by which this dangerous reef is now universally known. There is a tradition, that an Abbot of Aberbrothock directed a bell to be erected on the Rock, so connected with a floating apparatus, that the winds and sea acted upon it, and tolled the bell, thus giving warning to the mariner of his approaching danger. Upon similar authority, the bell, it is said, was afterwards carried off by pirates, and the humane intentions of the Abbot thus frustrated. This story has, by a modern poet, been made the subject of the ballad of “Sir Ralf the Rover,” which, for the reader’s amusement, is inserted in the Appendix, No. II.

Of the erection of the Bell, and of the machinery by which it was rung, if such ever existed, it would have been interesting to have had some authentic evidence. But, though a search has been made in the chartularies of the Abbey of Aberbrothock, preserved in the Advocates’ Library, and containing a variety of grants and other deeds, from the middle of the 13th to the end of the 15th century, no trace is to be found of the Bell Rock, or any thing connected with it. The erection of the bell is not, however, an improbable conjecture; and we can more readily suppose that an attempt of that kind was made, than that it had been intentionally removed, which in no measure accords with the respect and veneration entertained by seamen of all classes for land-marks; more especially, as there seems to be no difficulty in accounting for the disappearance of such an apparatus unprotected, as it must have been, from the raging element of the sea. It is not therefore unlikely, that the popular appellation by which this Rock has more recently been known, may owe its origin to the tradition of the Abbot’s humanity and public spirit; and when we consider that the churchmen of those days were well acquainted with the history of the celebrated Pharos of Alexandria, and may have heard of the fire-towers and sea-marks, which Mr Bryant, in his Mythology, conjectures existed in very remote times, it is natural to suppose, that these learned persons had, at a pretty early period, turned their attention to the subject, and had attempted, in the mode which has been figured, to point out and guard against the danger.

Amidst these speculations, it must not, however, be overlooked, that this Rock may have acquired its present name from its shape or figure; for at the commencement of the author’s operations, he remarked, that the site of the light-house, at some distance, had much the appearance of a large bell; and although this part was not more than four feet above the general level of the Rock, yet by supposing it to have been the nucleus of a larger mass, in the central part of the Rock, gradually wasted away by the washing of the sea, it may at a former period, from that resemblance, have obtained the appellation it now retains.

Situation and Dimensions.

The Bell Rock may be described as a most dangerous sunken reef, situate on the northern side of the entrance of the great estuary or arm of the sea called the Firth of Forth; and as such directly affecting the safety of all vessels entering the Firth of Tay. Its position, as will be seen from the Charts, Nos. 3. and 4., which accompany this work, is in west longitude from Greenwich 2° 22´, and in north latitude 56° 29´. From St Abb’s Head in Berwickshire, it bears north by east per compass, (variation 27° 20´ west in the year 1819), and is distant about 30 miles; from the Island of May north-east 17 miles; and from the promontory or cape called the Redhead, in Forfarshire, it bears south-west, and is distant 14 miles. But in easterly directions no land intervenes between the Bell Rock and the coasts of Norway, Denmark, Germany and Holland.

The dimensions of the north-eastern or higher compartment of the Rock where the light-house is built, are about 427 feet in length, and 230 feet in breadth. Besides these dimensions, the south-western reef extends about 1000 feet from the main rock. The greatest length, therefore, of the Bell Rock, which may be said to be dangerous to shipping, is about 1427 feet, and its greatest breadth is about 300 feet; but the outline or margin of the Rock is quite irregular, as will be seen from the Plates marked Nos. 5. and 6.

Natural History.

The Bell Rock consists of sandstone of a reddish colour, which in some places contains whitish and greenish spots of circular and oval forms, irregularly interspersed through the rock. It is of a fine granular texture, containing minute specks of mica. It is very hard, and, in the language of the artificer, is tough, and rather difficult to work; and in some parts it is found to rise in masses having a conchoidal fracture. Its angle of inclination with the horizon is about 15 degrees, dipping towards the south-east. The strata are thick and unequal, strongly cemented together, and running in the direction of north-east and south-west. The surface of the Rock is rugged, and full of cavities, so that walking upon it becomes rather difficult. A longitudinal section of the Bell Rock, taken in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, may be described as consisting of a higher and a lower level. The cross section, taken in a south-easterly and north-westerly direction, exhibits the abrupt and pointed terminations of the strata, though it appears level when seen from a distance.

In support of this opinion, we have the most unequivocal proofs of the waters of those friths having formerly occupied a much higher level. Of these we may notice the general appearance of their water-worn shores, and a bed of oyster-shells near Borrowstounness, which has been traced to the extent of three miles in length, and about two fathoms in thickness, lying in their natural state, but now upwards of 35 feet above the present level of the sea. Under these circumstances, and many others which might be adduced, it is not improbable that the Bell Rock has at one time been connected with the opposite coasts; and when we consider the general waste of the land, which is apparent in all directions from the impulse of the sea, it may at least be concluded, that at no very remote period, the Rock has been of much greater superficial extent, and above the level of the highest tides. Nor need we be surprised that such changes upon this remote and insulated spot should have been lost sight of, owing to their gradual and almost imperceptible effects, compared with the short period of the life of man, and in absence of all testimony excepting that which is oral.

With regard to the marine Plants which grow upon the Bell Rock, we may observe that the lower parts of it are covered with the stronger or larger sorts, as the great tangle, Fucus digitatus, the roots of which rarely appear above the water, while it is seen at the depth of several fathoms, growing with the greatest luxuriance, and has often been observed by the author from a boat in fine weather, as a means for ascertaining, by the direction of the leaf, the changes of the currents of the tide at the bottom. The Badderlock, or Henware, Fucus esculentus, is found only on the north-eastern and south-eastern extremities of the Rock, growing at low water-mark of spring-tides, and seems to prefer the most rapid currents of the sea, and places where the heaviest breach takes place. In such situations it grows in great abundance at the Bell Rock, where it has been measured of the length of eighteen feet, and of proportionally increased breadth. Perhaps some of these plants are of considerable age; but at the works of the Carr Rock Beacon, off Fifeness, it was found that the growth of the badderlock was so very rapid, that the plant attained to the length of seven feet upon the new building, in the course of the winter and spring months. The higher parts of the Bell Rock abound with the smaller fuci, as Fucus mamillosus, and F. palmatus, or common dulse. F. lycopodiodes, alatus, and coccineus, are found on the older stalks of the great tangle, and F. subfuscus and confervoides occupy the smaller pools. In some places, the rocks are rendered slippery with Ulva compressa and umbilicalis; and the higher parts of the Rock, and the basement or lower courses of the light-house, are so covered with Conferva rupestris, as to produce the appearance of a sward of grass.

Of the feathered tribe of animals at the Bell Rock, we notice the shag, cormorant, and herring-gull, which sometimes rest upon the Rock when in search of codlings and other small fishes. It also formed the resting-place of numerous seals at the commencement of the operations of the Light-house, but these amphibious animals, as well as the birds, have now almost entirely left it. The common crab and lobster are sometimes found here in the crevices of the rock. The Lepas balanoides, or acorn-shell, the common limpet, mussels of a small size, and the white buckey or Buccinum lapillus, abound on the rock. The Actinia crassicornis, Asterias glacialis and oculata, are common. A minute crustaceous insect, called, by Dr Leach, Limnoria terebrans (Lin. Trans, vol. XI. p. 371.), appeared in great numbers in the submersed wood work of the temporary erections on the Rock.

So destructive to timber is this small insect, that the Norway logs, laid down to support the temporary railways in 1807, when lifted in 1811, were found to have been reduced by its ravages from 10 inches square to 7 inches, or at the rate of about an inch in the year. The author having had occasion afterwards to examine the timber-bridge of Montrose, found the attacks of this insect upon the wooden piers to be so alarming as to endanger that fabric; and after many trials for the preservation of timber in such situations, the Trustees were ultimately induced to cover the upright beams with sheet-copper. Upon another occasion, when the author was called to inspect the Crinan Canal, he found the gates of the sea-locks so destroyed, chiefly by this little animal, that the locks lost seven feet of their depth of water in the course of the night. It is further remarked, that the deserted cavities, formed by the perforations of the Limnoria, frequently become the residence of larger marine insects, belonging to the Linnæan genus Oniscus.

In the year 1814, with a view to experiment on the effects of these destructive vermes, I fixed down specimens of teak-wood, oak, black birch, Memel and Norway fir timber, on the Bell Rock. The only specimen which remained imperforate till 1820, was the teak-wood. The rest were almost entirely destroyed in the course of two or three years. This may be regarded as a matter of some importance, in a national point of view, in directing the employment of teak-wood for the sea-lock gates of canals and for ship-timbers. From the excellency of the situation of the Bell Rock for such experiments, I have caused another set of timbers to be trenailed to the rock, in a situation where, like the former, they are occasionally uncovered by the water. These last pieces of timber were laid down in the month of October 1821. They are eighteen in number, each measuring 5 inches square, and 30 inches in length; and are of the following kinds, viz. British and American oaks and firs, Memel fir, Scotch elm, beech, sycamore, larch, teak-wood, mahogany, bullet-tree, locust-wood, and blue gum-wood from Van Dieman’s Land.

When the workmen first landed upon the Bell Rock, limpets of a very large size were common, but were soon picked up for bait. As the limpets disappeared, we endeavoured to plant a colony of muscles, from beds at the mouth of the river Eden, of a larger kind than those which seem to be natural to the rock. These larger muscles were likely to have been useful to the workmen, and might have been especially so to the light-keepers, the future inhabitants of the rock, to whom that delicate fish would have afforded a fresh meal, as well as a better bait than the limpet; but the muscles were soon observed to open and die in great numbers. For some time this was ascribed to the effects of the violent surge of the sea, but the Buccinum lapillus having greatly increased, it was ascertained that it had proved a successful enemy to the muscle. The buccinum being furnished with a proboscis capable of boring, was observed to perforate a small hole in the shell, and thus to suck out the finer parts of the body of the muscle; the valves of course opened, and the remainder of the fish was washed away by the sea. The perforated hole is generally upon the thinnest part of the shell, and is perfectly circular, of a champhered form, being wider towards the outward side, and so perfectly smooth and regular, as to have all the appearance of the most beautiful work of an expert artist. It became a matter extremely desirable to preserve the muscle, and it seemed practicable to extirpate the buccinum. But after we had picked up and destroyed many barrels of them, their extirpation was at length given up as a hopeless task. The muscles were thus abandoned as their prey: and in the course of the third year’s operations, so successful had the ravages of the buccinum been, that not a single muscle of a large size was to be found upon the rock; and even the small kind which breed there, are now chiefly confined to the extreme points of the rock, where it would seem their enemy cannot so easily follow them.

In speaking of the habits of fishes, it deserves notice that they have their particular grounds and shores which they frequent; for while the vessels attending the works at the Bell Rock were stationed there, different kinds of fish were caught as the depth and bottom varied. About high-water, and especially during ebb-tide, when the sea is smooth on the rock, the Podley (chiefly the fry of the coal-fish, but including also the young of the Gadus virens) is so numerous, as almost entirely to cover it from view. Near the rock, the small red cod is often found in abundance: at some distance, as the bottom, which is covered with marine plants near the rock, alters to coral, gravel, shell sand, fine sand and mud, all of which occur in a range of depths from 4 to 23 fathoms towards the north, different kinds of fish are found; first, the codling, which ceases to be wholly red, but becomes only speckled with reddish spots; then, upon the finer or mud grounds in the track of the tides of the Firth of Tay, whiting, haddock, flounder, and occasionally the sole. On the southern side of the rock, where the water deepens to 35 fathoms, the large white cod, in company with ling, conger-eel, halibut, skate, thornback, plaise, turbot, wolf-fish and large coal-fish are found. The dog-fish appears to be very general, and seems to prey chiefly upon the haddock and cod. The mackerel and gurnard are found together near the surface, and do not seem to be confined to particular grounds, but occur wherever the water is of a considerable depth. Herrings are found in the bays of the opposite shores in great abundance at the fishing season, when they are understood to be migrating towards the south. It has often been observed, in the course of the Bell Rock operations, that, during the cold weather of spring and autumn, and even at all seasons, in stormy weather, when the sea is much agitated by wind, the fishes disappear entirely from the vicinity of the rock, probably retreating into much deeper water, from which they do not seem to return, until a change of weather has taken place; so much was this attended to by the seamen employed on this service, that they frequently prognosticated and judged of the weather from this habit of the fishes, as well as from the appearances of the sky.

Depth of Water.

At the time of high-water of spring-tides, the south-western reef is about 16 feet, or nearly the whole rise of the tide, under the surface of the water; while the part of the rock on which the light-house is built, is about 12 feet below high water-mark of spring-tides: At low-water of neap-tides, hardly any part of the rock is visible: But at low-water of spring-tides, the general level of the north-eastern end where the light-house is built, is about four feet perpendicular above the level of the sea, though particular points measure six or even seven feet in height above the low-water mark of spring-tides.

At the distance of about 100 yards from the rock in all directions, excepting on the south-western reef, there is a depth of water varying from two to three fathoms at low water of spring tides. On the north-west side, or in the direction of the shores of Forfar and Fife, the greatest depth is 23 fathoms; but on the south-eastern or seaward side, in the direction of the dip or inclination of the strata, the water deepens more suddenly to 35 fathoms; in the same direction from the rock, however, the soundings again become less, being only 22 fathoms upon Mars Bank, distant about 33 miles; this bank appears to be a deposition formed by the joint operation of the waters of the Friths of Forth and Tay, influenced by the great tidal wave of the German Ocean. It may here be noticed as a fact connected with the depth of the German Ocean, that at Queensferry passage, in the Firth of Forth, the depth of the water is about 35 fathoms, while the greatest depth of the sea across to Denmark, does not exceed 45 fathoms. The depths of the German Ocean will be seen, by inspecting Chart No. 3., where sectional lines are delineated between various points of Great Britain and the opposite Continent, on which the reader will see the relative depths marked by shaded lines, in a new and it is hoped a perspicuous manner.

Current of the Tides.