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An Egyptian oasis

Chapter 17: High-Level Springs.
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About This Book

The author presents a detailed account of a Libyan-Desert oasis, combining topography, geology, and human history. He describes the physical layout, extinct lakes, and the subterranean aqueducts and artesian water-sources that sustain cultivation. The book surveys archaeological remains and monuments from successive ancient regimes and documents an Early Christian necropolis. It examines sand-dune dynamics, methods of boring and water extraction, and land-reclamation experiments. Maps, photographs, and plans illustrate caravan routes, geology, and aqueducts. Practical economic observations on irrigation, village life, and the ongoing struggle between cultivation and encroaching desert conclude the study.

BORE NO. 5.

BORE NO. 14.

In some countries, however, the water-resources have long been the subject of exhaustive examination, notably in the United States, where a most valuable and instructive series of water-supply reports has been issued by the Geological Survey. The chief difficulties arise from the fact that bores are generally the property of private individuals, who are seldom both able and willing to supply accurate information. Discharges, for instance, are usually given in the roundest of figures, and without regard to the conditions under which they were taken. In Australia more than one geologist has called attention to the matter, and quite recently Mr. G. H. Knibbs, F.R.A.S., of the University of Sydney, in a valuable and suggestive paper on the hydraulic aspect of the artesian problem, refers to the want of comprehensive and deliberate investigation in the past, and admits the inadequacy of the available data for the determination even of the one question only—i.e., the extent to which exploitation can be pushed without fear of exhausting the supply.

When drilling was first commenced in the Headquarters area, the bores were placed at an average distance apart of 500 metres; circumstances, however, led to there being a considerable variation in the depths of the wells, with the result that those of shallow depth and those situated on comparatively high ground were adversely affected by the deeper and more favourably placed bores. The sensitiveness of any one well to the influence of its neighbours is, I believe, far greater than is generally supposed, and appears to be especially dependent on the amount of difference between the depths, discharges, and surface-levels of the bores. In investigating this subject I made a number of experiments with the object of determining the mutual influence of wells, and perhaps some reference to these may not be without interest and value.

The first experiment to which I shall refer was made on wells situated comparatively close together. Bore No. 5 is 570 metres W.S.W. of Bore No. 6, the outlet of the former being at 57·38, that of the latter at 59·18, a difference of 1·8 metres. No. 5 has an internal diameter of 5⅝ inches, is 197 metres deep and 95 metres into the water-sandstone; No. 6 has a diameter of 8 inches, is 146 metres deep, and 61 metres into the sandstone. The two wells had been flowing continuously for a considerable period, and during the experiment neighbouring wells were kept shut down, so that there is no reason to suppose that the observations were affected by other bores.

Bore No. 5, discharging 114 gallons a minute, was shut down at 7 p.m. on June 12, 1907, and reopened at 7 a.m. on June 13. The hourly observations, as given in the following table, show the effects produced on Bore No. 6.

EXPERIMENT TO SHOW MUTUAL INTERFERENCE OF BORES.

Bore No. 5 closed at 7 p.m., June 12, 1907. Bore No. 5 opened at 7 a.m., June 13, 1907.
Time. Discharge of Bore No. 6. Time. Discharge of Bore No. 6. Time. Discharge of Bore No. 6. Time. Discharge of Bore No. 6.
P.M. Gallons per Minute. A.M. Gallons per Minute. A.M. Gallons per Minute. P.M. Gallons per Minute.
7.0 61·2 1.0 76·6 7.0 83·7 1.0 69·0
8.15 65·6 2.30 77·4 8.0 78·4 2.0 67·7
9.0 68·4 3.0 79·2 9.0 75·0 3.0 66·8
10.0 69·6 4.0 79·7 10.0 73·0 4.0 66·2
11.0 73·2 5.0 82·1 11.0 70·8 5.0 66·6
12.0 74·7 6.0 83·1 12.0 69·6 6.0 65·3
7.0 64·0

From these figures it will be seen that the shutting down of a flowing or the opening of a closed well may produce a most marked effect on a neighbouring well within the short space of sixty minutes, even when the intervening distance is over 500 metres. In the above instance the rate of increase was most rapid at first, there being a gain of 7 gallons per minute, equivalent to about 12 per cent., in the first two hours. The total increase in the twelve hours amounted to 22½ gallons, or about 37 per cent. On reopening No. 5 it is seen that the discharge of No. 6 at once commenced to fall, the loss being nearly 9 gallons in the first two hours; afterwards the rate of decrease gradually diminished, until at 7 p.m., when the observations were discontinued, the flow had fallen to within 3 gallons of its normal.

A second series of observations was made between two bores considerably farther apart, No. 4 being 835 metres N.N.W. of No. 42. The difference of level in this case was found to be 1·18 metres, the outlet of No. 4 being 60·74, and that of No. 42, 59·56 metres. Bore No. 4 has an internal diameter of 4¼ inches, is 141 metres deep, and draws from 19 metres of sandstone; Bore No. 42 is 6 inches in diameter, 218 metres deep, and 69 metres into the water-sandstone. Previous to the experiment, No. 4 was flowing 36·75, and No. 42 about 68·5 gallons per minute. Precautions were taken against other wells influencing the results, the nearest bores having been opened twenty-four hours previously and being kept in the same condition throughout the experiment. Bore No. 42 was closed down at 9 a.m. on March 4, 1908, periodical observations being then made of the discharge of No. 4 during the next thirty-six hours.

Briefly stated, the result of this experiment was as follows: The discharge of No. 4 had not perceptibly increased at the end of the first half-hour, but had done so after one hour. It continued to increase at a very slow rate, the net gain after thirty-six hours being only 3 gallons, or between 8 and 9 per cent. In this case the mutual interference is very much less than that between Nos. 5 and 6, doubtless largely owing to the greater distance apart, and to the lesser difference between the outlet-levels of the wells. In all probability there are many other conditions which combine with the above in determining the amount of interference, such as the positions of the wells with regard to the main lines of underground flow, the relative depths of the bores, and the thicknesses of sandstone from which they draw their supplies.

The most marked example of interference with which I have met was in the case of two ancient wells at El Dêr el Ghennîma, situated only 88 metres apart, on the crest of an anticlinal fold running north and south. These wells had been sanded-up for centuries, but were recently taken in hand and cleaned out. The difference of level in the outlets is 2·07 metres, the higher well being 34½ metres in depth, the lower 41 metres. The opening or closing of the lower well produces an almost instantaneous effect on the higher, the difference in flow of the latter within thirty seconds amounting to as much as 11 per cent.

A great many observations were made, but the following are sufficient to show the rates of decrease and increase:

Gallons per Minute.
Upper well flowed 13·2 when lower well was open (flow 50·3 g.p.m.).
„ „ 20·5 „ „ had been closed 10 minutes.
„ „ 23·7 „ „ „ „ 20
„ „ 26·3 „ „ „ „ 30
„ „ 39·4 „ „ „ „ 24 hours.
„ „ 35·6 „ „ had been open 30 seconds.
„ „ 32·5 „ „ „ „ 2 minutes.
„ „ 26·7 „ „ „ „ 7
„ „ 24·9 „ „ „ „ 9
„ „ 23·4 „ „ „ „ 16½
„ „ 19·7 „ „ „ „ 45

The closing down of the lower well is thus seen to have influenced the discharge of the upper to the extent of 100 per cent, in the short space of thirty minutes, while the flow was trebled in twenty-four hours. On opening the lower well the discharge of the upper fell to within 50 per cent. of its normal within forty-five minutes.

As already mentioned, most bores show a marked decline in discharge for some time after completion, and except in special cases it seems doubtful if large bores can be expected to maintain their original flows for long periods of years. During the early part of its existence a well draws its supplies from fully saturated beds, the water being forced into it from every side, not only through the pores of the sandstone, but through any fissures the bore may have struck. The flow of water through a compact sandstone is, however, extremely slow, and it is probable that as time goes on every bore becomes more and more dependent on fissures for the maintenance of its supply. This supersaturation of the water-bearing beds, if we may be permitted to use the term, is well illustrated by the closing of a bore for a few days. The water at once commences to accumulate around it, and when the bore is reopened the discharge will generally be found to have increased to a very great extent. As an example of this I may mention Bore No. 14, which, on April 19, 1907, was flowing at the rate of 225 gallons per minute. The well was then closed down for five days; on reopening the discharge was found to be 370 gallons per minute, an increase of 145 gallons, or about 65 per cent., the pressure during the same time having risen from below 9 to nearly 16 pounds per square inch. The discharge took about twelve hours, or one-tenth of the time, to fall to its normal. On another occasion the same well had its output increased from 217 to 339 gallons by being closed for twenty-four hours, a gain amounting to 55 per cent.

The rate of flow of water through an underground sandstone depends upon a number of conditions, the most important being the size of the pores or spaces between the component grains, the porosity or water-holding capacity of the sandstone, the temperature of the water, and the pressure acting on it. The yield of a well will depend, of course, not only on all these factors, but also on the diameter of the bore, its depth into the water-stratum, the size and number of fissures passed through, and, last and most important of all, on the absolute height of its outlet. Large pores, high average porosity, and high temperatures make for strong flows, though in the absence of pressure greater than that due to a column of water equal in height to the distance between the water-stratum and the outlet of the well, they are in themselves of no avail in the production of an artesian flow. Moreover, although some of the above conditions may be known beforehand, the resistance to flow of the strata immediately surrounding a bore can never be more than approximately conjectured, as the size and mode of arrangement of the individual grains of any sedimentary rock must always vary, both horizontally and vertically, to a very great extent, and on these factors depends in very large measure the capacity of the strata to transmit water.

Data are as yet far too insufficient to warrant an attempt to calculate the supply which can safely be drawn from a given area without unduly reducing the pressure, lowering the average static head, and endangering the continuance of the artesian supply. In some parts of the oasis there are bores many hundreds of years old still pouring forth their hundreds of gallons a minute; such wells are probably situated in exceptionally favourable localities, and are very possibly fed to a great extent by fissures. At the same time it must not be forgotten that there are throughout the oasis scores of wells which have ceased to run, either through local exhaustion of the water-bearing strata, or through failure to keep the bore-channels open; possibly through a combination of both circumstances. In some cases time seems to have remedied matters, as it is not uncommon to meet with instances where new bores, sunk in the immediate neighbourhood of long extinct wells, have produced strong discharges of considerable volume.

As I have already stated, the rate of flow of water is largely influenced by both the size of the pores and the porosity of the rock, the capacity to transmit water being very much greater for large than for small pores, and for high than for low porosity. It must, however, be pointed out that large pores and high porosity do not necessarily go together, and that small pores in a rock frequently accompany high holding capacity. For instance, a fine-grained sample of Nubian Sandstone will absorb from 25 to 28 per cent. of water, a medium-grained sample 20 per cent., while a very coarse sample may take up as little as 15 per cent. The pores and transmitting capacity of the coarse-grained variety will, however, be very much greater than in the case of either of the others.

In order to arrive at some sort of idea as to the holding capacity of the artesian-water strata of the oasis I made an examination of between sixty and seventy samples of sand brought up from varying depths from a few selected bores in the oasis. As, however, owing to the methods of drilling employed, only powdered samples were available, it was necessary in the first instance to ascertain the relative porosity of sandstone in its ordinary state and broken up into the form of sand. For this purpose I collected eight specimens of the Surface-water Sandstone from various points in Northern Kharga, and subjected them to absorption tests, both in the whole and in the powdered states. In six out of the eight examples the absorption was more when powdered than when whole, the average for the eight rock samples being 22·44 per cent.; for the same when powdered, 23·55 per cent. There is, moreover, no reason to suspect that in ordinary lithological characters the Surface-water Sandstone differs in any important respect from the Artesian-water Sandstone, so that if we estimate the porosity of the latter from powdered samples, we shall obtain a figure only about 5 per cent. too high.

The average porosity of sixty-four samples, collected from Bores 14, 16, 18, 31, 39, and 44, at various depths in the water-bearing strata, was found to be 19·45 per cent. If we confine our attention to a single bore, and examine a representative sample from every stratum of the water-bearing sandstone, and, in deducing the porosity, take into account the thickness of each individual bed, we shall obtain a still more reliable figure. This was done in the case of Bore No. 18, which passed through 122 metres of water-bearing strata, thirty-one samples being collected and subjected to examination. The absorptions obtained varied from 15·3 to 25·5 per cent., the average porosity of the whole column being calculated as 19·6 per cent. I believe this figure may be accepted without misgiving as a satisfactory working value for the porosity of powdered Nubian Sandstone, that of the solid rock being taken as 5 per cent. lower, or, say, 18·5 per cent.

The Artesian-water Sandstone has been proved to reach a thickness of 122 metres, and probably its total thickness is considerably more. Assuming, however, a vertical extent of only 122 metres, the water-bearing beds under 1 square kilometre would, if fully saturated, hold 4,965,000,000 gallons, which is the equivalent of the water which would be discharged in ninety-four years by a well flowing at the rate of 100 gallons a minute. When we consider that the area of the floor of the depression is some thousands of square kilometres, and that the water-sandstones, except in the immediate neighbourhood of the existing wells, are probably fully saturated, we realize the vast amount of water which is stored under the depression alone, irrespective of the still greater quantities which underlie the surrounding plateaux. The movement of the water through the sandstones, except along fissures and through particularly porous beds, is, however, very slow, so that the amount of water which can economically be made available at the surface is more or less limited, self-flowing wells being only obtainable over that portion of the area lying below the general static head.

CHAPTER XI
THE ORIGIN OF THE ARTESIAN WATERS

Flow of Water through Porous Rocks — Importance of Pressure, Porosity, and Temperature — Intermittent Flows — Abundance of Extinct Wells — Former Prosperity — Possibility of increasing Present Total Discharge — Local Traditions regarding Origin of Artesian Waters — Possible Sources of Origin — Seepage from Nile into Nubian Sandstone — Sandstones as Storage Reservoirs — The Oasis Waters of Meteoric Origin — Fissures — Rate of Flow — Strongly-flowing Wells not necessarily dependent on Fissures — Local Pressure from Variation in Level of Water-Table — Rise of Water due to Hydraulic Pressure — Points requiring Investigation — High-Level Springs: Ain Amûr; on Escarpment near Beris; at Nakhail.

The rate of flow of water through porous rocks has been investigated by a number of engineers and geologists, among whom may be mentioned Darcy, Hazen, King, Slichter, Knibbs, and Baldwin-Wiseman. The subject is an extremely complicated one, and its study requires a combined knowledge of mathematics, physics, and geology. Various formulæ for determining the rate of flow under varying conditions have been devised, but it will be sufficient for our present purpose to remark that the average velocity of water in sands does not appear to be more than 3 or 4 kilometres a year. The importance of porosity, pressure, and temperature on the rate of flow can be illustrated by utilizing tubes containing equal columns of sand of different degrees of coarseness, and noting the volumes of water passed under different conditions of pressure and temperature. The coarse sands will be observed to permit the passage of water at a far greater rate than the finer varieties, while any sand can be made to markedly quicken its rate of discharge by increasing the head of water in the tube above. Moreover, the rate of flow will be found to increase with the temperature of the water. In the case of the ordinary water of the oasis, a difference of only a few degrees was found to cause a very great difference in the rate of flow; it seems, indeed, as if the water, when below a certain temperature, deposits its mineral contents in the pores of the sandstone, so as to block the passages to a large extent. I have not yet had an opportunity of making the necessary experiments to ascertain if this explanation is correct, but if it should prove to be so, the importance of temperature on the rate of underground flow can hardly be over-estimated.

We have already described the intermittent character of the flow in the case of some of the larger wells in the southern part of the oasis. The circumstance is apparently due to the temporary blocking of the bore-hole by sediment, and the consequent increase of water and gas pressure below, which at intervals forces the sediment from the channels and restores the normal flow. Something of the same nature was also noticed in Bore No. 42, in the course of experiments carried out to determine the height to which the water would rise in an open pipe fixed to the end of the casing. At intervals a distinct gurgling and bubbling took place in the pipe, the water at the same time rising to as much as 8 centimetres above its normal level, with distinct oscillations of a pressure-gauge attached to the well. The ebb and flow did not, however, take place at regular intervals, but at periods varying from four to nine minutes. I think a sufficient explanation of these phenomena is the probable variation in the amount of gas finding its way into the bore; and certainly, after several years’ observation of the flows of a large number of bores, I cannot admit that there is the slightest evidence in favour of the view that the flows of the wells have a periodicity dependent on the rise and fall of the Nile.

One frequently hears it stated that the oases were far more thickly populated and better watered in olden times than at the present day. This belief is based on the existence in many parts of the depression of extensive remains of temples, forts, and villages, on the widespread traces of formerly cultivated lands, and on the abundance of sanded-up wells. It must not, however, be forgotten that the remains in question belong to successive generations, and that there is as yet no evidence to enable us to determine how much of the land, or how many of the wells, were in use at one and the same time. The evidence is, however, sufficiently pronounced to justify the conclusion that under the Romans the oasis of Kharga was far more flourishing than in modern times, a large part of the population being engaged, not in agriculture, but in mining, boring, and in the excavation of subterranean aqueducts.

LANDS UNDER RECLAMATION AT BORE NO. 39.

We have heard the most diverse and dogmatic opinions as to the feasibility of restoring the oases to their supposed former prosperity. For my part, I do not think that there is the slightest doubt that the total discharge of water could be very much increased, though to what extent it is impossible to say with the information at present available. One must consider the vast areas under which the water-bearing sandstones are known to extend, and the comparatively small extent of country over which the existing wells occur; that as yet the deepest bores have only penetrated the water-bearing beds to a depth of 122 metres; that the existing total discharge is mostly made up of insignificant flows from a great number of ancient and comparatively shallow wells, which for centuries have been subject to gradual decay; that so far as observed the flows increase in volume as deeper beds are struck; and that it might be possible to use artificial means of lifting the water to the surface, especially in districts lying above the level to which the artesian water will rise unaided. The extent to which the water-supply could be profitably augmented is, however, quite another question, and one depending on a great number of at present indeterminable factors.

According to local tradition, the waters of the Kharga wells come directly from the Nile through subterranean passages under the intervening plateaux, and the experience of an Arab trader is frequently related in support of this idea. The Bedawi in question, while engaged in filling his water-skins on the banks of the Nile, preparatory to setting out across the desert to the oasis, let fall his ‘tarbush,’ which was speedily engulfed in an eddy of the river. Although much annoyed at the time, our friend soon forgot the incident, until a few days later, when he was refreshing himself after his journey at a well in the neighbourhood of Beris, the identical piece of head-gear was borne up from its depths!

Mr. Patterson, whose knowledge of the folklore of the inhabitants is unique, recently related to me the following characteristic story: The natives of Beris, as the result of opening a long sanded-up well, obtained a very large flow of water. So terrified were they at the magnitude of the discharge—imagining, indeed, that they had tapped the Nile—that a deputation was hastily despatched to the Governor of Assiut, with profuse apologies for the damage done to the river. Needless to say, the Governor was somewhat taken aback, but realizing the solemnity of the mission, magnanimously informed its members that the waters of the Nile were so abundant that they might without fear take all they required.

At present any attempt to explain the origin of the artesian waters of the oases must be regarded as little better than speculation. More information is required concerning the geology of the country to the south of the oases, and as to the relative levels of the oases-depressions and the different parts of the Nile Valley and Libyan Desert, as far south as the more elevated regions of Kordofan, Darfur, and Tibesti. Little has been written on this subject, but the source generally assigned appears to have been Darfur. Possible sources of origin lie in the rainy districts of the Sudan, in the mountainous region of Abyssinia, in the great swamps of the Upper Nile, in the Nile River itself, and in past accumulations of water absorbed from the extensive lakes which covered parts of the country in the pluvial period which preceded the existing desert conditions.

In the present state of our knowledge I am personally inclined to agree with those who regard the Nile River as a present source of supply. It is known to flow for a considerable part of its course through a valley cut out in the Nubian Sandstone, and it is believed to lose an appreciable volume of water into that sandstone, though the exact amount has not been determined. Mr. J. I. Craig, of the Egyptian Survey, has estimated that at low Nile as much as 6,000 cubic metres of water (1,320,000 gallons) per minute drains back into the river from the sandstones on either side of the reach between Khartum and Wadi Halfa, and, as Captain Lyons remarks, this indicates that there is considerable percolation into the sandstones from the river when in flood.[10]

There is one point of the greatest importance to which we should like to draw attention, as it is generally entirely overlooked. The stores of water in the sandstones may represent the accumulations of hundreds and thousands of years, and the conditions to which the beds formerly owed their sources of supply may at the present time have become materially altered. It is quite conceivable that it may have required centuries or thousands of years to saturate the huge block of sandstone underlying the Libyan Desert, and even were the original sources of supply entirely cut off at any particular time, the effect on a few hundred bores, discharging only 50,000 cubic metres a day, would not necessarily be appreciable in one, or even five, centuries.

The total annual discharge of the whole of the wells of Kharga Oasis is barely equal in volume to the water which can be held by saturated beds underlying 1 square kilometre of surface, assuming the sandstone to be only 122 metres thick; that is to say, it would take between 3,000 and 4,000 years for the existing wells to discharge the water held by the beds underlying the depression alone, without considering the vast surrounding desert areas, where there is no reason to doubt that the water-tables are equally well developed. It must not, however, for a moment be supposed that bores would continue to discharge until the sandstones immediately surrounding them were completely depleted of water; they would, in all probability, pass into a sub-artesian condition in a very short time were the sandstones not replenished from more outlying districts.

In my opinion the subterranean water of the oasis is certainly of meteoric origin—that is to say, it is water which originally fell as rain, and has percolated underground from one of the possible sources above mentioned. It will, however, readily be admitted that the ordinary explanation of the flow and origin of artesian wells in regions of moderate or abundant rainfall, situated in well-defined basins, where the exact position, extent, and absorbing capacity of the water-table outcrop can be carefully determined, may be in some respects inadequate to account for the flowing wells of vast arid regions like the deserts of Africa and Australia; yet, after due consideration of the arguments for and against, I am unable to subscribe to Professor J. W. Gregory’s view[11] that a considerable portion of the waters in such regions is derived from magmatic or plutonic sources—that is to say, has its origin in the deep-seated crystalline rocks.

It may seem at first sight almost incredible that in those regions, where the outcrop of the water-bearing strata is so remote from the wells themselves and the dip over the intervening country so slight, the rise of the water in the wells could be due to direct pressure of water in the higher portions of the beds, unless on the supposition of large and continuous open fissures. That such fissures exist, and exist abundantly, is, I think, almost a matter of certainty; but it does not follow that their presence is essential to the production of flowing wells. Fissures are visible to the eye in the Surface-water Sandstone (which, as has been remarked, does not appear to differ in any important respect from the Artesian-water Sandstone), and it is through them that the bulk of the sub-surface water is obtained. The presence of fissures in the Artesian-water Sandstone is, moreover, in my opinion, almost demonstrated by the experiments on the mutual interference of wells. It seems hardly conceivable that the closing or opening of a bore could in the space of a minute or two affect the discharge of another well over ½ kilometre distant, if there did not exist a more or less open and direct connection between the two.

Rapid flow through a compact sandstone is impossible owing to friction, which increases as the size of the channels decreases; but, as pointed out by Knibbs and others, the hydrostatic pressure can never entirely disappear through friction, the rate of loss of head being dependent on the rate of flow. It therefore by no means follows that a strongly-flowing well cannot be obtained from an unfissured sandstone, for a rapid flow from the bore itself does not in any way depend on an equally rapid flow of the water through the sandstone surrounding the bore. For instance, Mr. Knibbs has calculated[12] that although in a 10-inch bore, discharging 700 gallons a minute from a 10-foot stratum, the water would have a velocity of 5½ feet a second at the bore itself, at the distance of one mile it would only be moving through the stratum at the rate of about ¹⁄₂₀₀ inch per second, or 18 inches an hour. In other words, water flowing through a 10-foot bed of sandstone from all sides towards a 10-inch bore, need, at the distance of one mile, only have a velocity of 18 inches an hour to produce a discharge from the well of 700 gallons a minute.

The importance of local pressure arising from variations in level of a fully saturated water-table in adjacent areas may be of itself quite adequate to cause flowing wells, especially if assisted by the presence of large volumes of gas under compression, such as occur in the Kharga waters. Another theory which has at times been brought forward as an adequate cause of flowing wells is rock-pressure— i.e., pressure due to the weight of the overlying strata. The objections to this theory seem to me, however, so cogent that we may at once dismiss it from our minds. There is indeed little doubt that the waters of the oasis are of meteoric origin, have travelled immense distances underground, and rise through bores placed in favourable localities by means of hydrostatic or hydraulic pressure, acting both through the pores of the rock and through open fissures. Although the rate and direction of flow through the sandstones as a whole may remain more or less matters of conjecture, it seems probable that the water of any one bore is derived from all sides, rising as the result of the pressure exerted by the water held in the same bed situated at higher levels, whether in the immediate neighbourhood or at a considerable distance.

I am conscious of having done little more than indicate the possible origin of the oasis waters and suggest the causes to which the flowing wells are due; more than this it is at present impossible to state with any confidence. The points to which attention should be directed as likely to throw further light on the subject are as follows: The area and position of the outcrops of the Impermeable Grey Shales and the underlying sandstone, and their relations to possible sources of water, whether rain, river, or lake; the nature of the bed of the swamp region of the Upper Nile; the amount and distribution of the rainfall of all surrounding regions; the volume of water lost in the different reaches of the Nile over and above that which can be directly accounted for by evaporation and by water abstracted for purposes of irrigation; and the total thickness of the water-bearing beds, the presence within them of impervious strata, and their relation to the underlying crystalline rocks.

AIN AMUR, ON THE UPPER DAKHLA ROAD.

High-Level Springs.

Before leaving the subject of water-supply we must briefly refer to two or three remarkable instances where water is found at very high elevations. The most important of these is on the upper road between Kharga and Dakhla, where a spring, known as Ain Amûr, occurs near the summit of the plateau at about 460 metres above sea-level. The water, which is quite potable, occupies the bottom of a hole about 3 or 4 metres in depth, at the base of a clump of palm-stubs, a few paces to the south of a solitary tree; it does not run, and the water-level is said to fall considerably in the summer. A small patch of green rushes lies a few paces to the west, and there is a good deal of scrub in the neighbourhood, from the position of which one is led to infer that there are several small springs thrown out along one of the bedding-planes, at the summit of the marly and clayey beds which underlie the limestones forming the uppermost portion of the cliff.

The high-level spring on the eastern wall of the oasis, in the neighbourhood of Beris, consists of a pool of clear sweet water at the base of a large fallen block of limestone, in a desolate rocky dingle. Ball determined its height as being 180 metres above Beris, or 260 metres above sea-level. The pool itself is overgrown with weeds, and, scattered about on the sides and bottom of the valley, there is a good deal of vegetation, mostly in the form of coarse grasses, prickly scrub, and tamarisk bushes. Geologically, the spring appears to be similarly situated to Ain Amûr—that is to say, it emerges near, or at the summit of, the argillaceous Exogyra Series, and below the overlying Danian limestones.

The water obtainable at Nakhail, 60 kilometres S.S.E. of the oasis, also appears near the summit of the Exogyra Series, and may therefore be considered to have a similar origin to the springs just described.

These elevated occurrences, thrown out along more or less definite geological horizons, must be regarded as natural springs, quite distinct from the artificially-made wells of the oasis-floor. As the springs lie several hundred feet above the static head of the artesian water, and are separated from the water-bearing sandstones by a great thickness of argillaceous impermeable strata, it is perhaps permissible to assume that their waters are derived from an entirely different source. The occurrences known are of very limited number, and the water only appears in small quantities, so that it is not unlikely that it is derived from the very occasional rains which fall on the plateaux. A portion of these rains would doubtless find its way downwards through fissures in the limestone, and, in areas where the dip of the beds was towards the oasis, might travel underground and occasionally be thrown out as springs on the walls of the depression, at the junction of the limestones and underlying clays.

CHAPTER XII
THE ANCIENT SUBTERRANEAN AQUEDUCTS

Works of Public Utility — The System probably introduced from Persia — The Bulk of the Works carried out by the Romans — Trenches connecting Wells with Cultivable Lands — Fortress Bores and their Underground Connections — Dêr el Ghennîma — Subterranean Aqueducts of Qasr Gyb — Qasr Lebekha and Um el Dabâdib — Reopening of Tunnel by Sheikh Hassan Hanadi — Sala Abdulla — Nature of Tunnels and Shafts — The Magnitude of the Underground Works — Exploration of the Tunnels — Origin of the Water.

Although the Persians and Romans left abundant traces of their occupation of the country in the shape of temples, forts, and monasteries, the determination and energy with which they prosecuted the colonization and general development of the oases is best shown by their attention to works of public utility. At no period in the history of the oases has so much attention been paid to the water-supply. Not content with tapping the deep-seated sources by means of bores, they carried out underground works of considerable magnitude and involving engineering difficulties of no mean order, so as to obtain additional supplies from the sandstones lying at or near the surface. The methods employed were probably introduced from Persia, where underground aqueducts, or ‘kareez,’ for the transference of water from one locality to another, have from an early date been employed. At the same time, judging by the character of the ancient buildings in the immediate neighbourhood of the most important of these works, it seems probable that the latter were for the most part constructed by the Romans.

Underground aqueducts are found to some extent in all the chief oases of the Libyan Desert, but in Northern Kharga they far exceed in magnitude anything known elsewhere. In their simplest form they consist of deep trenches connecting the wells with low-lying areas of cultivable land, the object being to tap the bores at the lowest possible levels, in order to obtain the greatest discharges. Thus, although a bore, originally sunk on comparatively high ground for the purpose of irrigating a particular area of land, might through one cause or another have ceased to flow, it could still be made available for any low-lying area farther afield by the simple expedient of tapping it below the surface by means of a trench or tunnel. This practice was frequently resorted to.

In selecting sites for their forts, monasteries, and other buildings, the Romans were naturally drawn to eminences commanding views of the surrounding country. It was, of course, desirable, and in the case of forts absolutely necessary, to have a supply of water within the building, and it was the custom, therefore, to sink a deep bore within the precincts, generally in the centre of the courtyard. In many cases, however, owing to the elevation, the water would not rise to the surface, the supplies being drawn up by hand. In order to make the water of such a well available for irrigating the lands situated outside the fort, one or more gently inclined tunnels were excavated so as to tap the bore below the fort; the well was thus made to serve a double purpose. Excellent examples of such conduits are to be seen at Dêr el Ghennîma. Here the well is in the middle of the courtyard, and three underground tunnels converge on it from the low-lying and anciently cultivated lands to the north and north-west. Along those portions where the bottom of the channel was in soft ground, and not more than a metre or two below the surface, the conduit was made in the form of an open trench, the sides being carefully built in with stone.

QASR LEBEKHA AND THE NORTHERN ESCARPMENT OF THE OASIS.

When the excavation of the trenches was completed, the open portions were covered over with large flat slabs of rock, so that the channels were not only well protected from blowing sand, but quite invisible on the surface. The underground conduits at Dêr el Ghennîma were indeed quite unsuspected before they were accidentally discovered a year or two ago. The tapping of the bore within the fort had, of course, the effect of still further lowering the water-level as regards the courtyard; it is quite likely, therefore, that the inhabitants had a means of blocking the underground channel when they desired the water to rise to its maximum level in the well. But in any case the few extra metres of distance from the surface to the water could not have been a matter of importance, as the comparatively small supplies needed for domestic purposes within the fort were doubtless raised by means of a bucket and rope attached to a windlass.

These short tunnels, tapping the water of artesian wells bored on high ground, are quite insignificant compared with the extensive systems of subterranean aqueducts driven into the solid rock in various localities in the north of the oasis. The most remarkable of these are found at Um el Dabâdib, at Qasr Lebekha, and in the neighbourhood of Qasr Gyb. They were made with the object of obtaining auxiliary supplies of water from the Surface-water Sandstone, and were especially applicable to localities where this sandstone has an extensive development and forms hills or plateaux above the general level of the floor of the oasis. Although it is difficult to believe that the supplies of water obtained were commensurate with the time and labour involved in the construction of the collecting tunnels, we may safely assume that the engineers who so carefully planned and carried out the works had fully considered the results to be looked for. The ruins of villages and the traces of formerly cultivated tracts show that sufficient water was obtained to enable fairly large colonies to exist, though after the withdrawal of the Romans these outlying districts were abandoned, the aqueducts silted up, and the cultivated lands reverted to the desert.

The ruins of Um el Dabâdib are situated under the northern wall of the depression, and distant about 36 kilometres N.N.W. of Kharga village, the route usually followed lying between the hill-massifs of Jebel Têr and Jebel Tarif. A better route is afforded by the caravan road running from Meheriq to Ain Amûr, Um el Dabâdib lying somewhat to the north of the track at a distance of 25 kilometres from the village.

Dr. J. Ball, in the course of his survey of the oasis, visited Um el Dabâdib in 1898, and thought it possible that one of the tunnels, which he observed ran northwards from the neighbourhood of the ruins, had originally formed a means of communication with some unknown and formerly inhabited depression to the north of the escarpment. Its real nature was, however, well known to the Kharga people, and a year or two later Sheikh Hassan Hanadi, a brother of the present Omda of Kharga village, got together a number of men and cleaned out one of the tunnels from top to bottom, with the result that, after a lapse of perhaps 1,000 years, water again flowed from the mouth of the aqueduct, and enabled a small agricultural colony to establish itself on the ruined site of the original founders.

Sheikh Hassan informed me that the bulk of the work had been done under his personal supervision, by a gang of from seventy to eighty men employed throughout the hot season; he had found from experience that the natives worked better in summer than in winter. The main tunnel was entirely cleared of clay and sand, the silted material being lifted out through the numerous man-holes or vertical shafts which connect the aqueduct with the surface above. A great deal of rough masonry work had also to be undertaken where the sandstone roof or walls had fallen in. The place was put in thoroughly good order, and all the shafts again closed, with the exception of two or three left open to permit of the descent of the men sent down periodically to examine the channel and keep it free from silted material.

When I first visited the place in January, 1905, I found the discharge from the mouth of the aqueduct was between 30 and 35 gallons per minute. A dozen acres or so of land had been reclaimed, and were tended by seven or eight men, who informed me that the crops raised there were equal to those in any part of the oasis. This I can quite believe, as, in spite of the fact that several dune-belts exist in the neighbourhood, the place is comparatively sheltered from the northerly winds by the great escarpment to the north.

The little settlement of Um el Dabâdib, with its adjoining fertile fields and fruit-garden, threaded by the life-giving stream emerging from the foot-hills of the stupendous cliffs to the north, and backed by the grim fort of bygone ages to the south, has in the midst of this desert an indescribable charm.