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An ivory trader in North Kenia

Chapter 39: INDEX
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About This Book

A first-person account of an early 20th-century East African trading expedition, detailing preparations, the logistics of leading a safari, travel across Kikuyu into northern Kenya and Galla lands, and efforts to procure ivory from nomadic Rendili and Burkeneji peoples. The narrative blends episodic travel scenes — river crossings, floods, wildlife encounters, skirmishes, and loss of photographs — with practical trading episodes, negotiations, and interactions with local leaders and porters. Observational ethnographic notes describe customs, languages, and material culture encountered, while recurrent themes include the hardships of overland commerce, the moral and practical complexities of ivory trade, and the dangers and unpredictability of the landscape.

INDEX

  • Abdullah ben Asmani, 12
  • Abdallah Arahalli, 94
  • Abdullah ben Selim, death of, 128
  • Aberdare Range, 3, 338, 342
  • A’kikuyu, assisted by the, 50;
  • brawl with the, 60;
  • return to the, 343;
  • attempts at theft by the, 344;
  • sheep stolen by the, 347;
  • arrest of the chief of the, 348;
  • steal three cows, 359
  • Aloes, 135, 160, 333
  • Ants, attacked by, 113;
  • red, 158
  • Asmani ben Selim, 12, 324
  • Assala, 53
  • Athi river, 26;
  • fishing in the, 27, 33, 35;
  • in flood, 36;
  • crossing the, 37
  • Baazi, 53
  • Baboons, 197, 249, 252
  • Baobabs, 79
  • Barri leaves the Somali camp, 276;
  • is pursued, 277;
  • is attacked by his pursuers, 277;
  • and shoots Ismail Robli, 278
  • Baringo, Lake, 4, 136
  • Bei Munithu, 84;
  • treachery of, 298;
  • insolence of, 316;
  • repentance of, 329
  • Bhotan, 94
  • Bilali, 14, 176
  • Blood-brotherhood, 84;
  • ceremony of, 113, 147
  • Borana country, 235;
  • people, 235
  • Buffalo hunt, 151;
  • herd of, 192;
  • horns destroyed by hyænas, 296
  • Burkeneji, nomadic habits of, 163;
  • first meeting with, 208;
  • village of, 209;
  • temerity of women of, 209;
  • chief of, 210;
  • belief in their weapons, 223;
  • dress, 223;
  • donkeys, 223;
  • insolence of, 224;
  • relations of, with the Rendili, 241
  • Camels, loss of the, 202;
  • reappearance of, 300
  • Camp on fire, 171
  • Cannibals, rumour of, 346
  • Carl Alexander Falls, 46
  • Castor-oil plant, 59
  • Chanjei Hills, 87;
  • character of people of, 87
  • Chanler, Mr. William Astor, F.R.G.S., 4, 88, 214, 226, 258, 265, 266
  • Chanler Falls, 203
  • Chiggers, 314, 329
  • “Cinder Heap”, 165
  • Congoni, 24;
  • The tenacity of life of, 359
  • Coja ben Sowah, 12
  • Crane, crested, 35
  • Crocodiles, 50, 212, 247;
  • immense size of, 254
  • Cumming, Gordon, 308
  • Dasturi, 331
  • Date palms, 175
  • Desertions, 20, 155, 259
  • Dhurra, 52
  • Dirito, 82;
  • arrival at village of, 82;
  • assists us to drive animals, 132;
  • treachery of, 298
  • Docere ben Ali, 12
  • Doenyo Sabuk, 18, 24;
  • in sight of once more, 347
  • Doenyo lol Deika, 136
  • Doenyo Ebor, 66
  • Doenyo Egere, 66
  • Donkeys, 16;
  • troubles with, 25, 38;
  • eaten by Wakamba, 137
  • Doti, measurement of a, 53
  • Doum palm, description of, 162
  • El Hakim, meeting with, 2;
  • and the Tomori people, 86;
  • robbery of goods of, 116;
  • experiences with elephants, 142;
  • shoots a rhinoceros, 185;
  • bitten by a scorpion, 245;
  • has a bright idea, 269;
  • adventure with a lion, 292;
  • shoots an elephant, 296
  • Elkonono, the, 315
  • Elephant, awkward meeting with an, 139;
  • hunting, 142-146, 296, 303
  • Elephant’s foot, 301, 310
  • Elgeyo, 136;
  • escarpment of, 137
  • Embe country, description of, 95;
  • the retreat from, 103;
  • explanation of reverse in, 110
  • Euphorbias, 333
  • Falls on the Tana River, 350
  • Falls, Chanler, 203
  • Falls, Carl Alexander, 46
  • Falls, Nairobi, 27
  • Falls, Sweinfurth, 46
  • Finlay and Gibbons, Messrs., disaster to, 17, 18, 57
  • Fire, difficulties with, 31;
  • camp on, 171;
  • grass, 188
  • Foa, Edward, F.R.G.S., 311
  • Forest, belt round Kenia, 84;
  • acacia, 90;
  • of North Kenia, 335
  • Formosa Bay, 4
  • Galla-land, 3
  • Game very numerous, 43;
  • vast herds of, 150, 172, 191;
  • scarcity of, 179;
  • absence of, 201
  • Game-pit, adventure in a, 21
  • George joins the expedition, 18;
  • takes a bath, 26;
  • sickness of, 33;
  • narrow escape of, 100;
  • illness of, 115;
  • drives hostile Wa’m’thara from camp, 134;
  • adventure with a rhinoceros, 267;
  • shoots a rhinoceros, 293
  • Giraffe hunt, 280, 285
  • Gilgil, 339
  • Gnainu, fight at, 118
  • Grant’s gazelle, good sport with, 294
  • Green Camp, 162, 188, 293
  • Gregory, Prof. J. W., D.Sc., 4, 180
  • Guinea fowl, 206
  • Hall, Mr., 49, 344
  • Hamisi ben Abdullah, 12;
  • death of, 128
  • Hannington, the late Bishop, 137
  • Hannington, Lake, 136
  • Hippopotamus, 54, 255;
  • an anxious moment, 261, 284, 287
  • Hohnel, Lieut. Ludwig von, 4, 213
  • Honey, 53
  • Hyænas, 296, 331
  • Igani, noisy reception in, 81
  • Imbe, entry into, 79;
  • chief of, 79;
  • audacious proposal of people of, 80
  • Impala, 296
  • Ismail Robli, 9;
  • appearance of, 93;
  • character of, 93;
  • murders N’Dominuki’s nephew, 100;
  • terror of, 106;
  • refuses to return to Embe, 113;
  • camped among the Rendili, 212;
  • grief of, 217;
  • letter to Nairobi of, 219;
  • his invitation, 269;
  • wounded by Barri, 288
  • Ivory, troubles of buying, 123, 129
  • Jamah Mahomet, 9;
  • refuses to cross M’bu, 57;
  • visit to, at Munithu, 83;
  • appearance of, 93;
  • character of, 93;
  • wounded, 99;
  • death of, 100;
  • burial of, 100
  • Jenner, Major, murder of, 215
  • Jombeni Hills, 87
  • Jora, measurement of, 53
  • Jumbi ben Aloukeri, 11, 105, 155, 158, 234, 267
  • Juma, 14, 176
  • Kamasia, 136
  • Karanjui, camp at, 84;
  • fight at, 324
  • Karama, 147
  • Kenia, Mount, 34;
  • first sight of, 66;
  • again in sight of, 291;
  • north of, 137
  • Kibaba, capacity of, 53
  • Kibuyu, 54
  • Kilaluma, 43, 343
  • Kinangop, Mount, 338, 342
  • Kinuthia, 49-51
  • Kinyala, song of, 310
  • Kiongozi, 12
  • Kirrimar plain, 253
  • Kitoma, 53
  • Kolb, Dr., 5, 11;
  • account of death of, 156
  • Koranja, 51;
  • accompanies us, 59;
  • trepidation of, 62;
  • bids us farewell, 63;
  • meeting with, 349
  • Koromo, meeting with, 104;
  • makes blood-brotherhood with El Hakim, 113
  • Kota, 52
  • Kriger and Knapp, Messrs., 18;
  • decide to accompany us, 24;
  • return of, 35
  • Kriger’s farm, arrival at, 22;
  • departure from, 25;
  • return to, 361
  • Kundu, 53
  • Kwa-Ngombe, 345
  • Leeches, 212
  • Lemoro, 213
  • Leopard, 35
  • Lion, number of, 32;
  • hunt, 156, 279;
  • El Hakim’s adventure with, 292, 332, 333
  • Loads, method of carrying, 16
  • Lokomogo, 213;
  • present of, 270
  • Lolokwe, Mount, 136
  • Longfield, Capt., 353
  • Lorian, 3, 4;
  • news of, 246;
  • the start for, 246;
  • where is it?, 258;
  • dissertation on, 265
  • Loroghi Mountains, 5, 137
  • Lubo, 213;
  • immense possessions of, 232
  • Lykipia plateau, 52, 137
  • Mahogo, 52
  • Makono, measurement of, 53
  • Malwa, 13
  • Manga, 51;
  • indisposition of, 56;
  • greeted by, 349
  • Marabout stork, 39
  • Maranga, arrival at, 51;
  • abundance of food in, 52;
  • departure from, 59;
  • return to, 349;
  • peculiar method of crossing a river of people of, 356
  • Maragua river, 46;
  • bridge across the, 47;
  • return to the, 358
  • Maragua bean, 53
  • Marathwa river, 352
  • Marazuki, death of, 128
  • Marisi-al-lugwa-Zambo plateau, 204-245
  • Marlé tribe, 228
  • Marsabit, 222
  • Masai, 242, 338
  • Materu, camp at, 62
  • Mau escarpment, 137
  • M’biri, visit to, 352
  • M’bu, arrival at, 64;
  • hostility of natives of, 67;
  • an anxious journey, 71;
  • the guides desert, 74;
  • farewell to, 73
  • Metama, 52;
  • matindi, 53
  • Midges, attacked by, 178
  • Milindi, 31
  • Milk, method of adulteration of, 54
  • Mineral spring, 161;
  • salts, 162
  • Mogogodo, 181
  • Mogoroni river, 345
  • Moravi, route across, 81
  • Morio trees, 135, 160
  • “Morning Whiffs,” terrible results of, 39;
  • further experiences with, 55
  • M’thara, arrival at, 90;
  • purchasing food in, 91;
  • description of camp at, 98;
  • camp in danger, 104;
  • getting supplies of food in, 113;
  • departure from, 148;
  • bad news from, 297;
  • return to the camp at, 302;
  • farewell to, 331
  • Muhindi, 52
  • Mules, 19;
  • accident to one of the, 78
  • Mumoni Hills, 47
  • Mumunye, 53
  • Munipara, 11
  • Munithu, arrival at, 84;
  • departure from, 84;
  • return to, 116;
  • story of the pillaged goods at, 116;
  • departure from, 131;
  • attack on, 319
  • M’wele, 52
  • Nairobi, 1, 2, 6, 8, 9;
  • river, 27;
  • falls, 27;
  • the return to, 362
  • Naivasha, 338
  • N’dizi, 53
  • N’Dominuki, chief of M’thara, character of, 89;
  • declining influence of, 90;
  • is accused of treachery by the Somalis, 106;
  • explanation of, 108;
  • offers himself as guide, 111;
  • fidelity of, 299
  • N’doro, 341
  • Neumann, Mr. A. H., 5;
  • influence over N’Dominuki of, 89;
  • acquaintance with Dr. Kolb, 155
  • Ngare Mussoor, 336
  • Ngare Nanuki, 337
  • N’gombe, Mount, 178
  • Noor Adam, 17;
  • appearance and character of, 94
  • Nyemps, 136;
  • the old men of, 330
  • Oryx, 183
  • Papyrus reeds, 26;
  • swamps, 360, 361
  • Petrie, Prof. Flinders, 276
  • Photography under difficulties, 260, 262
  • Pig, 254
  • Porters, selecting the, 9
  • Provisions, selecting the, 8
  • Python, narrow escape from, 207
  • Rain, 301, 312
  • Ramathani, 13, 177, 309;
  • fright of, 356
  • Rats, troubled by, 117
  • Rendili, nomadic habits of, 163;
  • no signs of, 200;
  • encampment, 203;
  • arrival at village of, 211;
  • chiefs, 213;
  • flocks, 215;
  • trading with the, 216;
  • settlements of the, 221;
  • appearance and dress of the, 227;
  • ornaments, 228;
  • women of the, 228;
  • fondness for children of the, 229;
  • propensity to falsehood of the, 231;
  • small-pox among the, 232, 238;
  • fighting qualities of the, 235;
  • love of begging of, 236;
  • love of tobacco of, 236;
  • household utensils, 238;
  • weapons, 239;
  • saddlery, 239;
  • courage of the, 240;
  • dread of the Masai of the, 241;
  • return to the camp, 268;
  • fortifying the camp, 273;
  • burial places, 275;
  • departure from the, 274
  • Rendili sheep, 198, 234
  • Registration of porters, 16
  • Resarse ben Shokar, 12, 324, 331
  • Rhinoceros, Lieut, von Hohnel injured by a, 4;
  • a delicate situation, 28;
  • encounters with, 34, 45, 149;
  • pugnacious disposition of, 164;
  • hunt on mule-back, 173;
  • hunt, 182;
  • shot by El Hakim, 185;
  • shot by author, 186;
  • hunt, 198;
  • large numbers of, 250, 253, 257;
  • adventure with a, 255;
  • disturbed at night by, 260;
  • shot by George, 298;
  • hunt, 295, 341
  • Rudolph, Lake, 4, 5, 58
  • Sabaki river, 31
  • Sadi ben Heri, 11;
  • death of, 128
  • Sagana, 45
  • Salt, failure to procure, 179;
  • large plain of, 233
  • Sand rivers, 200, 290
  • Sand rats, 212
  • Seton-Karr, Mr., 276
  • Sirimon river, 337
  • Sheba, Mount, 164
  • Sheep, buying from the Rendili, 268;
  • death of many of the, 314;
  • the disposal of, 358
  • “Sherlock Holmes,” 13;
  • illness of, 340;
  • death of, 342
  • Shooting, useful hints on, 146
  • Skene, Captain, 358
  • Smallpox, 59, 232, 238, 354
  • Somali caravan, start of, 17;
  • news of the, 83;
  • attacked by the Wa’Embe, 84;
  • conference with leaders of, 93;
  • friction with, 141;
  • meeting with portion of, 201;
  • disaster to the, 217;
  • the alarm in the, 271;
  • the panic in the, 272
  • Song of Kinyala, 310
  • Spot, death of, 263
  • Sulieman, 12;
  • desertion of, 259
  • Swahili porters, character of, 7
  • Sweinfurth Falls, 46
  • Swamp Camp, 178, 291
  • Sycamores, 79
  • Tana river, 4, 45;
  • the source of the, 343;
  • flooded, 350;
  • attempts to cross the, 351, 355;
  • across the, 357
  • Teleki, Count Samuel, 4
  • Thika-Thika river, 17;
  • crossing the, 42;
  • building a bridge across the, 359
  • Thompson, Joseph, F.R.G.S., 3;
  • description of Kenia by, 66;
  • description of Masai by, 242, 332, 333
  • Thorn forest, 88;
  • terrible experience with thorns, 205
  • Ticks, abundance of, 28
  • Tikiti, 53
  • Tomori people, 85
  • Trade goods, list of, 15
  • T’savo river, 31
  • Turkana people, 222
  • Uimbe, 52
  • Viazi, 52
  • Victoria Nyanza, Lake, 1, 7
  • Vikwer, 52
  • Viseli, 132
  • Wa’Chanjei, visit of the, 316
  • Wa’Embe, decision to punish the, 94;
  • plan of attack, 95;
  • the start, 96;
  • ambush by the, 98;
  • the Burkeneji trading with the, 268
  • Wa’Gnainu, pillage of our goods by the, 116
  • Wa’Igani, desire to make blood-brotherhood with us, 81
  • Wa’Imbe, cordial greeting of the, 79;
  • conference with the, 80;
  • audacious proposal of the, 80
  • Wa’kwafi, 136
  • Wakamba porters, characteristics of, 7
  • Waller’s gazelle, 205
  • Wa’Mbu, bad character of the, 57;
  • hostility of the, 65;
  • renewed hostility of the, 67;
  • interview with the chiefs of, 69;
  • capture of the chiefs of, 69;
  • farewell to the, 73
  • Wandorobbo, description of the, 179;
  • language of the, 181;
  • guides, 194;
  • desertion of the guides, 195
  • Wangwana, 7
  • WaN’yam-wezi porters, characteristics of, 7
  • Wargasse, Mount, 136
  • Waso Nyiro, 3, 4;
  • tiring march to the, 160;
  • splendid climate of, 175;
  • desolate landscape on the, 249;
  • crossing the, 291;
  • the source of the, 338
  • Washenzi, 7
  • Waterbuck, 184;
  • capture of young, 292
  • Wa’Zuka, cordial reception by the, 75
  • Weapons, list of our, 9, 10
  • Whistling trees, 332
  • Witchcraft, 340
  • Wild dogs, 292
  • Zanzibar, 7
  • Zebra, 33, 43, 336, 341
  • Zuka, entry into, 75;
  • camp in, 77
  • Zura, welcome at, 81