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Belgium

Chapter 111: INDEX
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About This Book

The book blends travel description, historical narrative, and illustrations to survey Belgian towns, countryside, and institutions. Vivid accounts of market-places, belfries, churches, canals, and coastal dunes alternate with retellings of medieval events, civic traditions, sieges, and revolutions, tracing how regional identities evolved. Chapters move from urban details—architecture, public ceremonies, museums, and daily life—to rural scenes of farms and the Ardennes, while profiles of principal cities discuss artistic heritage and municipal government. Maps and plates accompany the text, providing visual context alongside historical overview and on-the-ground impressions.

On hearing this, he knocked at the door, which was opened by the Count, who let him enter with a few of his friends.

LA VIEILLE BOUCHERIE, LIÉGE

'Tell me, gentlemen,' said Warfusée, 'do you wish to be Spanish, or French, or Dutch?'

'No,' they replied, 'we wish to remain what we are—neutrals and true Liégeois.'

'What would you think,' the Count asked them, 'if you heard that La Ruelle has sold your country to France?'

'We would not believe it,' they all replied.

'Do you know his signature?' Warfusée inquired, showing them some documents.

'These are forgeries,' they told him.

'No matter!' exclaimed the Count;' I had orders to kill La Ruelle. He is already dead, and I hold Abbé de Mouzon and Baron de Saizan prisoners. Would you like to see La Ruelle's body?'

To this they replied 'No,' and asked permission to leave the house.

By this time the news of the burgomaster's death was known in the town, and a vast crowd had gathered in front of the house, shouting 'To arms!' and demanding admission. The Count ventured to open the door, and allow the burgomaster's cousin and his friends to escape. The noise increased, as the people knocked loudly at the door, and uttered threats of vengeance upon the Count. Warfusée, now trembling in every limb, pale and terror-stricken, ran hither and thither between the courtyard and the garden, and at last hid himself in a room on the upper story, just as an armed crowd of townsmen burst in, and forced their way to where the soldiers were guarding Abbé de Mouzon and the other prisoners. Baron de Saizan at once called on the Spaniards to give up their weapons, and promised them quarter. They allowed themselves to be disarmed; but the townsmen instantly attacked them. There was a short, but desperate, struggle, during which the ladies, cowering on the floor, protected themselves as best they could from the musket-balls which flew about, and the sword-cuts which the infuriated townsmen dealt in all directions. In a few minutes the Spaniards were slain to the last man; and then some of the burghers, moved by pity, led the daughters of Warfusée from the blood-stained house to the Hôtel de Ville, where they obtained shelter.

Their father at this time was lying on a bed upstairs, where he was soon discovered by La Ruelle's cousin, who had returned, and some of the burghers, who dragged him down to the door of the house and threw him out into the street. The mob rushed upon him, stabbed him, and beat him to death with bludgeons, tore off his clothes, pulled him by the feet to the market-place, hung him head downwards on the gallows, and finally tore the dead body to pieces. A fire was lighted, his remains were burned, and the ashes thrown into the Meuse.

Even this revenge did not quench the thirst for blood which consumed the people of Liége. The advocate Marchand, who had been one of Warfusée's guests, and another eminent citizen, Théodore Fléron, fell under suspicion, and were slaughtered. It is said that one of those who slew Fléron was so mad with rage that he flung himself on the dead man's corpse, tore it with his teeth like a wild beast, and sucked the blood. The church of the Carmelites, who were also suspected of some guilty knowledge of Warfusée's plot, was sacked. The Rector of the Jesuits was murdered, and the members of that society were driven from the town. The mob went through the streets shouting, 'Death to the Chiroux! Death to the priests!' A list was drawn up of suspected persons, who were condemned, without trial, on a charge of having conspired against the State; and many of the Chiroux faction were hung on the gallows.

Such is the horrible story of the 'Tragic Banquet of Warfusée,' as it is called in local history. The motive for the crime, as foolish as it was brutal, was obviously the wish of Warfusée to gain, at any cost, some credit with the Emperor, though there seems to be no proof that either the Emperor or Ferdinand had really authorized the murder of the burgomaster. Nor is there evidence to show that La Ruelle had plotted to hand over the Principality to France. The only explanation of Warfusée's extraordinary folly seems to be that he had entirely misunderstood the sentiments of the Liégeois, and had under-estimated the popularity of La Ruelle and the strength of the Grignoux faction. Otherwise, desperate villain though he was, he would scarcely have ventured to commit such a crime with no support save that of a few soldiers.

THE EPISCOPAL PALACE—INNER COURT,
LIÉGE

A semblance of peace followed; but soon the feud between the Chiroux and the Grignoux broke out again. Once more the Grignoux obtained the upper hand. The Episcopal Palace was taken by the mob. Two hundred citizens of the upper class were ordered into banishment; and when the Bishop was on his way to Liége, hoping to restore order by peaceful means, he was met by the news that the gates were closed against him. He therefore sent his nephew, Prince Henry Maximilian of Bavaria, with an army to reduce the town. In a skirmish near Jupille one of the burgomasters was killed. The Grignoux lost heart, and opened the gates. Then came a wholesale arrest of the popular leaders, four of whom were executed. The mode of electing magistrates was altered, the Bishop reserving to himself the right of nominating half of them. The loyalists who had been banished were recalled. To overawe the people, a citadel was built upon the high ridge above the town; and when Ferdinand died, in 1650, the Principality was more at rest than it had been for many years.


CHAPTER XXV
THE GAMING-TABLES AT SPA—THE FRENCH REVOLUTION—ANNEXATION OF THE PRINCIPALITY

Already two Princes of Bavaria had been Bishops of Liége, and now a third succeeded, Prince Maximilian Henry, who filled this uneasy throne from 1650 to 1688.

During most of that time the armies of almost every nation in Europe swept like a flood over the Principality; but the most important transaction of Maximilian's reign was the establishment of a new system for the election of magistrates. This system, which came into force in November, 1684, and was known as the 'Réglement de Maximilien de Bavière,' deprived the lower classes of that direct power of election which they had so long abused, and divided it between the Bishops and the middle class. The result of this measure was that there was quiet, if not harmony, within the walls of Liége for the next hundred years. During that period, from 1684 to 1784, the valley of the Meuse was frequently the seat of war in the various campaigns of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

More tranquil times came with the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, when the Austrian Netherlands were restored to the Empress Maria Theresa. It was, indeed, only a calm between two storms. But for some years the arts of peace flourished in the valley of the Meuse; and side by side with a remarkable progress of industry and commerce the intellectual activity of the people increased. An association, called the 'Société d'Emulation,' was formed, chiefly for the study of French literature; and soon the works of Voltaire, of Diderot, and of d'Alembert were read by all classes. The clergy tried to forbid the purchase of such books, but in vain. Amongst the working class the favourite authors were those who attacked the clergy; and the writings of Voltaire became so popular that secret meetings were held in many of the country villages for the purpose of hearing them read aloud. Thus, beneath the surface, the spirit of inquiry and free thought was fostered. Already in France the first murmurs of the coming storm were heard; and in Liége people began to speak about the 'rights of man,' to question the dogmas of the Church, and to ridicule the priests at whose feet their forefathers had knelt for so many hundred years.

While these new forces were gathering strength, César de Hoensbroeck, one of the Canons of St. Lambert, became Bishop, on July 21, 1784. A trifling dispute with which his reign began was the prelude to very serious events. For many years a company called the 'Société Deleau' had enjoyed a monopoly of the gaming-tables at Spa, under a grant from the Bishops of Liége, to whom a third of the profits were paid. In 1785 one Levoz, a citizen of Liége, opened a new gambling-house, which he called the 'Club.' The Société Deleau protested against this infringement of its monopoly. Levoz and his friends replied that by law the Bishops had no right to grant a monopoly without the sanction of the estates; and at last the case was laid before the Imperial Chamber of the German Empire.

This petty quarrel, so trivial in its origin, had run its course for more than two years, when suddenly it was raised into a grave controversy by one of the partisans of Levoz, Nicolas Bassenge, who published a series of letters in which he declared that the liberties of the country were at stake. 'It is not,' he said, 'a mere question about a game of hazard.' Which is to be supreme, he asked, the Prince or the people? Who has the right to make laws or grant monopolies? The chief of the State is not its master, but merely the instrument of the national will. Others followed Bassenge in the same strain; and more letters, fresh recriminations, hot words and angry answers, added fuel to the fire.

Levoz, tired of waiting for a decision from the Imperial Chamber, leased his Club to a manager, Paul Redouté, who opened it with dancing added to the attractions of dice and cards. The Bishop sent 200 soldiers to Spa, who closed the Club tables, and forbade all gaming except in the rooms to which he had granted the monopoly. A warrant was issued for the arrest of Redouté and M. Ransonnet, who had fought in the American War of Independence, and was now a leader among the disaffected party in Liége. The latter fled to Brussels, where the Brabant revolution against Joseph II. was approaching its climax, and sent letters to Liége, in which he said that a plan was on foot to establish a republic consisting of Brabant and the Principality of Liége. Would it not, he asked, be a glorious work to confine the Bishops to their Apostolic mission, as in the days of St. Hubert? Words like these made a deep impression at a time when the old influences of tradition and custom were beginning to lose their force.

PONT DU PROPHÈTE, PROMENADE MEYERBEER, SPA WOODS

In the spring and summer of 1789 there was much suffering among the poor, owing to a bad season; and the Bishop arranged to celebrate July 21, the anniversary of his election, by a distribution of bread among the destitute. But before July 21 came, horsemen had galloped up the Valley of the Meuse with tidings of the wonderful things which had been done in France. 'Workers of iniquity,' Bassenge wrote, 'behold Paris, and tremble!'

The Bastille had fallen on July 14, and a month later almost to a day, on August 16, the revolution in Liége began. For two days the people did nothing but march about the streets; but very early on the morning of Tuesday the 18th the tocsin was sounding over the town, and soon the market-place was filled by an immense crowd, all wearing cockades of red and yellow, the national colours. Baron de Chestret marched at the head of 200 armed men into the Hôtel de Ville, and expelled the burgomasters. This was followed by the election, at the famous Perron, of new burgomasters, one of them being Baron de Chestret, who, later in the day, went with a number of the insurgents to the Bishop's palace at Seraing, and demanded his presence in the city, and his written approval of what had been done. The Bishop, adorned with a red and yellow cockade, was hurried to Liége by the mob, who crowded round his carriage, shouting, blowing trumpets, and beating drums. The horses were taken out, and the rioters drew him to the Hôtel de Ville, and brought him into a room where the light of a single candle showed a number of men waiting for him sword in hand. A threatening voice came from the darkness, saying, 'The nation demands your signature. Make haste!' and the Bishop forthwith signed a number of documents which were placed before him, without waiting to read the contents. On the morrow he returned to Seraing; but a few days later he departed secretly for Tréves.

For nearly two years the Imperial Chamber was occupied with the question of Liége; but at last, when the revolution in Brabant had been suppressed, an Austrian army entered the Principality. Everything which the revolutionary party had done since August 18,1789, was declared null and void. The burgomasters who had been expelled were restored to office. Those Canons of St. Lambert who had fled were brought back, and the Bishop himself returned. The Société d'Emulation, which had done so much to encourage the study of Voltaire, was suppressed. Sentences of banishment, and even of death, were pronounced against some of those who had led the revolt; and there can be little doubt that Bishop Hoensbroeck earned the title of 'prêtre sanguinaire,' which was given him at the Courts of Berlin and Vienna. He died in June, 1792; and in August of that year his nephew, the Comte de Méan, was elected by the Chapter. But before the new Bishop's inauguration the army of the French Republic, fresh from its victory at Jemappes, having driven the Austrians beyond the Meuse, took possession of Liége. This was on November 28, 1792.

Dumouriez, who had entered Brussels without opposition, received a hearty welcome at Liége, where the popular sentiment was in favour of an union with France; and in every part of the Principality resolutions were passed for incorporating the country with the Republic. It is said that, shortly before August 18, 1789, Mirabeau dined at Liége with Bassenge and some of the revolutionary leaders, when the conversation turned on the affair of Spa. The constitution of Liége was explained to him. 'And you are not contented with that?' he said. 'Gentlemen, let me tell you that if in France we had enjoyed half your privileges, we would have thought ourselves happy.' But there had always been a charm in the word 'Republic' for the people of Liége. 'Men of Liége,' said Nicolas Bassenge, when the National Convention at Paris decreed the annexation of the Netherlands, 'our lot is fixed: we are French. To live or die Frenchmen is the wish of our hearts, and no wish was ever so pure, so earnest, or so unanimous.'

Thomas Bassenge, brother of Nicolas, was at this time a member of the Municipal Council of Liége; and in February, 1793, he persuaded the magistrates to celebrate the revolution by destroying the Cathedral of St. Lambert, which stood near the Episcopal Palace of Érard de la Marck. The front of this church, the finest ecclesiastical building in the Principality, was a mass of elaborate carving. Statues of angels and archangels, of patriarchs and prophets, of martyrs and of saints, rose one above the other, and over them innumerable pinnacles were interlaced by a maze of slender arches, crossing each other with tracery so delicate as almost to resemble lace. Beneath this profusion of stone work the great doorway was adorned with marble statues of the benefactors of the church from the chisel of Lambert Zoutman, a sculptor of Liége; and in the interior of the building, with its marble columns and windows of old stained glass, were many paintings, the tombs of the Bishops, rich tapestries, a jewelled bust of Lambert, and many objects of value, amongst which were two golden statues sent by Charles the Bold to the shrine of the patron saint, as an act of expiation after he had destroyed the town. This building, which had survived the great disaster of the fifteenth century, was now completely wrecked. The statues and the monuments were cast down. The mausoleum of Érard de la Marck was sold and broken up. The graves were opened, the bones thrown out, and the lead of the coffins used for bullets. The clocks were sent up the Meuse in barges to France, and there turned into copper money. Everything valuable was removed, and soon nothing remained but the bare walls, which in a few years crumbled into ruins. Thus the long line of the Bishop-Princes of Liége, and the place in which for centuries they had been inaugurated, fell together.


CHAPTER XXVI
LIÉGE AND THE VALLEY OF THE MEUSE IN MODERN TIMES—BOUILLON

The territory which the Bishops had governed was now merged in four of the nine departments into which the National Convention divided the annexed Austrian Netherlands. The department of 'Forêts,' with Luxembourg for its capital, included the Ardennes. The western portion of the old diocese was sunk in 'Sambre et Meuse,' of which Namur was the chief town. 'Ourthe' was the name given to the district in which Liége was situated. To the east lay the department of 'Meuse Inférieure,' with Maestricht for its capital. Thus the old boundaries of the Principality were entirely obliterated. The Convention conferred the rights of French citizens on the people of these districts, and commissioners were sent from Paris to divide the country into cantons, and establish a new system of local administration on the French model.

The departments of Forêts, Sambre et Meuse, Ourthe, and Meuse Inférieure were in the same condition as the rest of Belgium during the closing years of the eighteenth century and down to the fall of Napoleon. After that they formed part of the 'Kingdom of the Netherlands,' under the House of Orange-Nassau, and were called the provinces of Luxembourg, Namur, Liége, and Limbourg.

When the Kingdom of the Netherlands, the chief constructive work accomplished by the Congress of Vienna, fell to pieces in 1830, the Liégeois went with the rest of Belgium in the revolution against William I. As soon as they heard of the insurrection at Brussels, the townsmen of Liége met, as of old, in the market-place, put on the national colours, and helped themselves to weapons from the armourers' shops. A company of 300 volunteers, with two pieces of cannon, marched across Brabant into Brussels, and took a prominent part in the street fighting, which ended in the retreat of the Dutch troops, and the triumph of the revolution which led to the separation of the Catholic Netherlands from Holland, and the election of Leopold I. as King of Belgium.

PONT DE JAMBES ET CITADELLE, NAMUR

Long ago, in the days of Prince Maximilian of Bavaria, a fortress was built on the only bridge which at that time crossed the Meuse at Liége. This fortress, armed with cannon which could sweep both sides of the river, left only one narrow waterway, nicknamed 'The Dardanelles,' by which boats could pass up and down the stream. It has long since disappeared, and the present Pont des Arches now occupies the sight of the old bridge. The irregular outline of the houses on the bank of the Meuse, with their fronts of grey, white, and red, the church towers appearing over the roofs of the town behind, and the ridge of the citadel rising high in the background, are best seen from the Pont des Arches, from which the modern Rue Leopold leads straight into the very heart of Liége, to the place on which the Cathedral of St. Lambert stood. It is just a century since the last stones of the old church were carted away; and now the Place St. Lambert, like the Place Verte, which opens on it from the west, and the market-place, which is a few yards to the east, has a bright look of business and prosperity, with its shops and cafés.

The Episcopal Palace, now the Palais de Justice, the erection of which took thirty years during the commencement of the sixteenth century, has undergone many alterations since the days of Érard de la Marck. Two hundred years after it was finished a fire destroyed the original front, which had to be rebuilt, and the rest of the vast structure was restored in the nineteenth century. The primitive façade has been replaced by one moulded on severely classic lines; but the inner squares, with their picturesque cloisters, are strangely rich in types of every style, a medley of Gothic, Renaissance, Moorish, as if symbolic of the vicissitudes undergone by the Bishop-Princes who inhabited this immense building. Most of the grotesque carvings, the demons in stone, and the fantastic figures which surround these courts, were conceived by the luxuriant imagination of Francis Borset, a sculptor of Liége.

Close to the Episcopal Palace is the market-place, where so many of the scenes described in these pages took place, and where now stands the modern Perron, designed by Delcour at the end of the seventeenth century to replace the old column, at the foot of which the laws of the Principality, peace, or war used to be proclaimed. There is nothing about it to recall the history of the stormy times when Charles the Bold carried it off into Flanders; but the tradition of the ancient Perron still survives.

At Brussels, Ghent, Bruges, Louvain, the Hôtels de Ville retain their aspect of the Middle Ages, when they were the centres of that passionate civic life which throbs through all the history of the Netherlands. But the Hôtel de Ville of Liége is modern, of the eighteenth century. It would make a commodious private mansion, but has nothing in common with the architectural gems which adorn the great cities of Flanders and Brabant.

This lack of architectural distinction is characteristic of modern Liége. The hammers of the French Revolution, in destroying the Cathedral of St. Lambert, completed what the fires of Charles the Bold began, and of the really old Liége almost nothing remains. But the fiery spirit which once led to so many wars and revolutions now finds an outlet in useful work. The industrious character of the Walloons is perhaps most highly developed in other Walloon parts of Belgium—among the carpet factories of Tournai, the iron-works of Charleroi, the flax-works of Courtrai, and in the coal-mines of the Borinage, which blacken the landscape for miles round Mons. But the people of Liége have always been famous for their skill in working steel and iron. In the old days they forged the weapons of war which they used so often; and at the present time there are in the town many flourishing companies who turn out large quantities of guns, engines, and machinery, while up the Meuse there are coal-mines, furnaces, and factories, where the Walloons toil as laboriously as in Hainaut.

In the year after Waterloo William I. and John Cockerill, an Englishman, established iron-works at Seraing, within a few miles of Liége. In 1830, when the Kingdom of the Netherlands was broken up, Cockerill became owner of the business, which has grown since then, until it is now one of the largest iron manufactories in Europe, with some twelve thousand workmen constantly employed in its coal-mines and engine-works. The Palace at Seraing, from which Bishop Hoensbroeck was carried by the revolutionary mob to the Hôtel de Ville at Liége in the summer of 1789, is now the office of the well-known firm of John Cockerill and Company.

CHÂTEAU DE BOUILLON, IN THE SEMOIS VALLEY

Beyond Seraing the Valley of the Meuse winds up through the centre of what was once the Principality of Liége, and at every turn there is something which recalls the olden time. The white Château of Aigremont, where the Wild Boar of Ardennes used to live, stands boldly on its hilltop on the left bank of the river. A little farther, and we come to the Condroz country, with its capital Ciney, notorious for the insane 'War of the Cow,' and Huy, with the grave of Peter the Hermit, and its long history of suffering. The whole valley is so peaceful now, full of quiet villages, gardens, hay-fields, and well-cultivated land, that it is difficult to realize that for centuries it was nothing but a battlefield, and that in these regions the people suffered almost as much from the depredations of their friends as from the enemy, even long after the barbarism of the Burgundian period was a thing of the past. 'We have,' says Field-Marshal de Merode, during the campaigns of Louis XIV., 'eighteen miserable regiments of infantry, and fourteen of cavalry and dragoons, who are just six thousand beggars or thieves, for they have neither money nor clothing, and live by plunder on the highways, stopping public and private coaches, robbing travellers, or, pistol in hand, demanding at least a pour boire. Nobody can go from one place to another without meeting them, which ruins business and the whole country.'

The situation of Namur, at the junction of the Sambre and the Meuse, made it a place of great importance in every war, not only in the Middle Ages, but also in later times. When the Grand Alliance was formed against France, it was in Brabant that the main body of the Allies gathered; but before long the tide of war rolled into the Valley of the Meuse. Liége was bombarded for five days by Marshal Boufflers, and the Bishop, from his place of refuge in the citadel, saw the Hôtel de Ville and half the town set on fire by the shells which flew over the river from the French batteries on the Chartreuse. As the struggle went on, Huy was destroyed by Marshal Villeroi, Namur fell into the hands of Louis XIV., and farther afield it seemed as if no city, however strong, could stand a siege against the genius of Vauban, while the victories at Steinkirk and Landen made the arms of France appear invincible. But at last, in 1695, came the siege and capture of Namur by William III. The taking of Namur was the turning-point of that war, and led to the Treaty of Ryswick, by which Spain recovered Luxembourg, and all the conquests which the King of France had made in the Netherlands.

Again, when the War of the Spanish Succession began, the English army, on its way to Germany, marched into the Principality of Liége, took the town and citadel of Liége, drove the French over the Meuse, and carried the war to Blenheim on the Danube. But though the first of Marlborough's chief victories was thus gained in Bavaria, the second of his four great battles was fought to obtain command of the way to Namur. Marshal Villeroi's object in giving battle at Ramillies was to protect that town, which he regarded as the key to the Valley of the Meuse; but fortune had deserted France, and the combat of May 23, 1706, decided the fate not only of the Principality of Liége, but of all Belgium, though the war continued through the carnage of Oudenarde and Malplaquet, till the Peace of Utrecht.

Even now the shadow of a possible war overhangs this part of Europe; and if those who think that, sooner or later, the neutrality of Belgium will be violated are right, it is very likely that the line of the Meuse, with its navigable stream, its railway, and its roads, so well adapted for military purposes, will be used. It is in view of this danger that the fortifications along the valley are maintained. Within a radius of six miles round Liége there are twelve forts. The citadel of Huy, planned by William I. soon after the campaign of Waterloo, was enlarged and made stronger so lately as 1892. Namur is surrounded by nine forts at a distance of about six miles from the town; and the citadel of Dinant forms an outpost to the south-west.

The last occasion on which any part of Belgium, so long the 'Cockpit of Europe,' had a glimpse of war was in the autumn of 1870. The battle of Sedan had been fought within a few miles from the southern slopes of the Ardennes, and during September 3 thousands of wounded men and prisoners from the beaten army were crowded in Bouillon, a little town which lies in the gorge of the Semois, just over the Belgian frontier.

This place was once the capital of a Duchy. On a lofty rock, almost surrounded by the dark, brown waters of the many-winding Semois, stands the ruined castle of the Dukes of Bouillon, a large pile of grey walls and towers, which gives some idea of the immense strength of the fortresses which, even in the remote forest-land of Ardennes, the feudal lords built for themselves. The age of this stronghold is unknown, but there seems reason to believe that a fort was erected on this rock by the Princes of Ardennes so early as the seventh century. In the eleventh century it was ceded to the Principality of Liége by the famous Crusader Godfrey of Bouillon; but this part of the Ardennes, on the borders of France and Luxembourg, was a kind of 'Debatable Land,' and there were frequent struggles for the Duchy between the Bishops of Liége and the family of de la Marck. The Wild Boar of Ardennes obtained possession of it, and his son usurped the title of Duke of Bouillon; but one of his descendants having incurred the wrath of Charles V., the castle was taken, the town sacked, and the Duchy restored to the Bishops of Liége. They retained it till it fell into the hands of Louis XIV., by whom it was given to the family of La Tour d'Auvergne, the representatives of the de la Marcks. It became a small Republic after the French Revolution, but was included in the Kingdom of the Netherlands from 1815 to 1830. Since then it has formed part of Belgian Luxembourg.

Bouillon, with its mountains and woods, and its romantic ruin, being one of the loveliest spots in the Ardennes, soon became a favourite place for holiday-makers, and had for many years a peaceful existence before the storm burst so near it in that eventful year 1870. 'I was there,' M. Camille Lemonnier says, 'in the midst of the débâcle, and, sick at heart, and in the horror of those days, wrote these words: "A furious coming and going filled the streets. We found the Place crowded with townspeople, peasants, lancers, prisoners, and wounded men struggling among the horses' hoofs, the wheels of wagons, and the feet of the stretcher-bearers. A horrible noise rose in the darkness of the evening from this tumultuous crowd, who moved aimlessly about, with staring eyes, lost in agony, and scarcely knowing what they did. A stupor seemed to weigh on every brain; and all round, looking down on the seething mass, lights twinkled in the windows of the houses. Behind the white blinds of one house, the Hôtel de la Poste, at the corner to the left of the bridge, a restless shadow moved about all night long. It was the shadow of the last Bonaparte, watching, and a prisoner, while near him the frantic cries wrung by defeat from the wreckage of the French army died away in sobs and spasms."'

Next morning Napoleon III., who had spent the night in the Hôtel de la Poste, left with a guard of Prussian officers, climbed up the road, through the woods which lie between the valleys of the Semois and the Lesse, to Libramont, whence he journeyed by train to Wilhelmshoe.

Since then Bouillon has returned to the quiet times which preceded the Franco-German War; but that student of history must have a very dull imagination who does not find much to think of in this narrow valley, on the frontiers of Belgium and France, where the past and the present meet, the day when Duke Godfrey rode off to plant his standard on the walls of Jerusalem, and the day when his castle looked down on the humiliation of the ruler who began his reign by making war about the Holy Places of Palestine.


INDEX

Abbé de Mouzon, 341, 342, 343, 344

Abbey of the Dunes, 152-156;
of Melrose, 153

Abbey of St. Bavon, 170, 171

Adinkerque, 141, 156

'Adoration of the Immaculate Lamb,' 61, 171

Aigremont, Castle of, 315, 368

Aix-la-Chapelle, churches of, enriched, 284;
Peace of, 354

Albert, Archduke, 336, 337

Albert, Archduke, portrait at Furnes, 112;
at the Battle of the Dunes, 119, 124, 126;
marries the Infanta Isabella, 120;
character of, 12, 122;
wounded, 126

Albert de Cuyck made Bishop of Liége, 289;
grants a charter to Liége, 290, 291, 296, 297

Albert de Louvain, 289

Albert, Prince, at Bruges, 72

Alexander, Emperor of Russia, 233

Allée Verte, 203

Alost, 175

Alpaïde, 281

Alva, 249, 250, 329

Amandus, St., 170

Amsterdam, 250

Anoona, Bishop of, 31

Anderlecht, 196

André, St., village of, 21

Androuins, M., 205

Ane Aveugle. Rue de l', 13, 15, 21

Angelo, Michael, 26

Anglaises, Couvent des Dames, 23

Anna Paulowna, Grand Duchess, 233, 234

Anna, wife of William the Silent, 257

Anseremme, 274

Antoine, Duke of Brabant, 187

Antwerp: in the sixteenth century, 244, 245;
cathedral sacked, 247, 248;
the Spanish Fury, 248, 249;
besieged in 1585, 250 et seq.;
reformers at, 253;
trade goes to Amsterdam, 250;
fall of, 254;
Napoleon at, in 1803, 264;
Orange party in, 1830, 265;
bombarded in 1830, 265, 266;  state of, in 1803, 243;
surrendered by Carnot, 224;
proposal to strengthen fortifications of, 268;
Cathedral, 245, 266;
Church of St. Michael, 266;
Grande Place, 246, 249;
Hôtel de Ville, 249, 251;
Marché du Vendredi, 260, 261;
Rue de la Bascule, 258;
Rue du Couvent, 258;
Place Verte, 260, 266;
Place de Meir, 257, 259;
Rue Rubens, 258;
Rue Sale, 258;
Rue de Tournai, 253;
Statue of Rubens, 260;
Vleechhuis, or Vieille Boucherie, 246;
walls of, 245;
Wappers, 258;
Cathedral of, 25, 60, 96

Aquitaine, Duke of, 280

Archduke Maximilian, 167
Archdukes Albert and Isabella, 256, 258, 259

Ardennes, state of, in the feudal period, 285, 286

Arenberg, Duc d', 192, 221

Arenberg, family of, 314, 325

Arlon, 273

Arschot, Duc d', 123

Artevelde, Jacques van, 53, 111, 166, 169

Artevelde, Philip van, 59, 92

Artois, Comte d', 46, 47, 231

Auber, 238

Augustinian Nuns, 23

Austrian Netherlands restored to the Empress Maria Theresa, 354;
annexed to France, 363


Baldwin, Bras-de-Fer, real founder of Bruges, 12;
defends Flanders, 13;
marries Judith, 12;
builds Church of St. Donatian, 13, 165

Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, 29

Baldwin of Constantinople, 131

Baldwin VII., 16

Bannockburn, 46

Bardi, money-changers at Bruges, 58

Bassenge, Nicolas, 355, 357, 359, 360

Bassenge, Thomas, 360

Bassin de Commerce at Bruges, 50

Bastille, fall of, in 1789, 357

Battle of the Dunes, 119 et seq.

Battle of the Golden Spurs, 39 et seq., 46

Beaufort, Jean de, 292

Beeckmann, William, 339, 340

Beggars, The, 190, 191

Béguinage at Bruges, 23;
grove of, 7

Béguinage at Ghent, 169

Béhuchet, Nicholas, 55, 56, 64

Belfry of Bruges, 5, 6, 7, 9, 173;
of Ghent, 173;
of Brussels, 198

Belgian Parliament passes law for harbour near Heyst, 80

Berlaimont, 189, 190

Berlaimont, Comte Florent de, 123

Bernard, St., of Clairvaux, 28

Berri, Duc de, 231

Bertulf, Provost of St. Donatian, 17

Bexley, 155

Bicycles, import duty on, 85

'Bird of Honour,' 72, 73

Black Watch, 229

Blankenberghe, new harbour near, 80;
English fleet at, in 1340, 54, 135, 136

Blenheim, 371

Blyde Incompste, 182

Bois-le-Duc, 177

Bombarda, Jean Paul, 202

Boniface VIII., 43

'Bonnes Villes' of Flanders, 174

Borluut, Madame, 227

Borset, Francis, 366

Borthwick, Colonel, 68

Boterbeke, 8, 9

Bouchoute, Hôtel de, 4

Bouillon, 287, 288, 372, 373, 374

Bouisies, Comte de, 227

Bourg, Place du, at Bruges, 13, 14, 15

Bourignon, Antoinette, 196

Brabant, Duke of, supports Simon de Limbourg, 289;
joins in the War of the Cow, 292, 293;
Joyeuse Entrée of, 291;
revolution of, 356, 358

Brabant: present boundary, 175;
frontiers in ancient times, 176;
four chief towns of, 177;
spirit of union, 181;
Joyeuse Entrée, 182 et seq.;
States of, 185;
Council of, 186;
Dukes of, their tomb violated, 200, 201;
Revolution of, 209 et seq.

Brangwyn, William, 32

Brant, Jean, 258; Isabelle, 258

Bréderode, 190, 191, 329
Breidel, John, 39, 42, 44, 46

Breskens, 61

Brialmont, General, 228

Bristol, Earl of, at Bruges, 67

Brodhuis, the, 198, 207, 215

Bruges, 163, 164, 173, 174, 177, 189, 244

Bruges, described by John of Ypres, 8, 9;
origin of name, 9;
primitive township of, 10;
boundaries in early times, 10;
Market-Place, 4, 5, 39;
Halles, 5;
early trade, 10;
the Loove at, 18;
growth of, 16;
capital of West Flanders, 12;
Baldwin Bras-de-Fer its real founder, 12;
Place du Bourg, 13;
murder of Charles the Good, 16;
Joanna of Navarre at, 40;
death of Marie, wife of Maximilian, 26;
Hôtel de Ville, 59;
Customs House, 49;
Oriental appearance in Middle Ages, 65;
produce sent to, in Middle Ages, 57;
Hanseatic League at, 58;
Consulates at, 58;
splendour of, in Middle Ages, 59, 60;
under the House of Burgundy, 60;
loss of trade, 60, 61;
pauperism, 64;
Charles II. at, 65 et seq.;
list of Charles II.'s household at, 67;
death of Catherine of Braganza at, 23;
fate of Church at French Revolution, 76;
Napoleon at, 32;
state of, since Revolution of 1830, 76;
English Jesuits at, 75;
Queen Victoria at, 72;
relic of Holy Blood at, 28 et seq.;
Procession of the Holy Blood, 32 et seq.;
relic of the Holy Cross, 26;
tournament at, 306;
Charles the Bold buried at, 312

Bruges Matins, 15, 39

Brussels, contrast to Flemish towns, 175;
in the Middle Ages, 177, 181;
increase of wealth and luxury, 178;
Wencelas at, 186;
under the House of Burgundy, 187;
during the reign of Charles V., 190;
executions of Egmont and Horn, 170, 200;
entry of the Infanta Isabella and Archduke Albert, 195;
bombardment of 1695, 195 et seq.;
Charles of Lorraine at, 203 et seq.;
scene in the Grande Place in 1789, 215;
entered by the Austrians in 1790, 218,
by the allies in 1814, 223;
Jacobin clubs, 221;
Napoleon at, 222, 223;
during the winter of 1814-15, 225;
in June 1815, 228 et seq.;
Revolution of 1830, 238 et seq.;
Allée Verte, 203;
Boulevard du Midi, 180,
de Waterloo, 180;
Brodhuis, 198, 208, 215;
Burgundian Library, 188;
Coudenberg, 177;
Church of the Carmelites, 187, 198;
Communal Museum, 200;
Grande Place, 176, 198;
Hôtel de France, 226;
Hôtel de Ville, 59, 176, 188, 198, 207;
La Chaussée, 191;
l'Etoile, 199;
le Cygne, 199;
Manneken, 217, 222;
Maison des Brasseurs, 199;
Mint House, 202;
Montagne de la Cour, 191, 197;
Notre Dame de la Chapelle, 180;
Notre Dame du Sablon, 180;
Place de la Monnaie, 202, 224, 239;
Porte de Louvain, 224;
Porte de Hal, 180, 196;
Porte de Laeken, 204;
Porto de Namur, 196, 230;
Rue de la Blanchisserie, 228;
Rue des Fripiers, 224;
Rue de la Montagne du Parc, 226;
Rue de Namur, 229;
Rue des Petits Cannes, 191;
Rue Royale, 226, 240;
Ste. Gudule, 180, 200, 201;
St. Nicholas, 176, 198;
Théatre de la Monnaie, 201, 206, 216, 223;
Charles II. at, 71;
Church of Ste. Gudule, 26

Burchard, 17, 18, 19
Burgundian Library, 188

Burgundy, Charles, Duke of, 26

Burgundy, House of, 95, 187, 189;
in the fifteenth century, 296;
hated by the Liégeois, 297

Burnet, Bishop, 70

Butler, Mr. J., 69, 70


Caen, 260

Caine, Mr. Hall, 135

'Cairless,' Mr., 67

Caisse de Religion, 211

Cambrai, 176

Camolet, Jean, 328

Campo Formio, 264

Capucins, Chapel of, at Furnes, 114

Carmelites, Church of, at Liége, sacked, 349

Carnot, 224, 265

Carthusian Monastery at Ghent, 167

Casa Negra, 77

Catalani, 231

Cathedral of Antwerp, 26

Cathedral of St. Martin at Ypres, 122

Cathedral of St. Sauveur at Bruges, 26, 33, 76

Catherine of Braganza, 23

Catholics unpopular at Liége, 336

Celestine III., 155

Chabot, 220

Chapel of the Capucins at Furnes, 114

Chapelle du Saint-Sang (St. Basil's) at Bruges, 28, 31, 33, 76

Charlemagne, 11, 281

Charleroi, 228, 232

Charles II. of England at Bruges, 65 et seq.

Charles the Bald, 11

Charles the Bold, 26, 187, 188, 189;
destroys Dinant, 301;
becomes Duke of Burgundy, 301;
enters Liége and issues a decree, 302, 303;
marries Margaret of York, 306;
imprisons Louis XI. at Peronne, 306;
marches with Louis XI. to Liége and destroys the town, 307, 308, 309;
his death, 311;
burial at Nancy, 311;
final burial at Bruges, 312

Charles the Good, 16-22

Charles IV. of Luxembourg, 182

Charles V., 121, 170, 172, 190, 245;
is chosen Emperor, 326;
takes Bouillon, 373

Charles VI., 100

Charles of Lorraine, 199, 203 et seq., 221

Charles X., 238

Charles, M., advocate, 221

Charlotte, Princess, 234

Charter of Albert de Cuyck, 296, 297

Chartreuse, at Liége, 316

Chassé, General, 265

Chateaubriand, 230, 231

Château des Comtes at Ghent, 166

Chatillon, Conference of, 264, 265

Châtillon, Jacques de, 42, 43, 44-47

Chaudfontaine, 282

Chemins-de-fer Vicinaux, 84

Chester, Baron de, 357

Chèvremont, 282

Chiroux and Grignoux factions, 340

Church of Jerusalem at Bruges, 26

Church of Notre Dame at Bruges, 76

Church of St. Donatian at Bruges, 76

Church of Ste. Walburge, 78, 110

Ciney, 292, 293, 295, 369

Cistercians, 154, 155

Citadel of Liége built, 351;
taken by the English, 370

Clairvaux, 28

Clauwerts, 15, 40, 181

Clement V., 30

Clement VII., 93
Clermont, Count of, 288

Cloth Hall of Ghent, 173

Cockerill and Co., 368

Collège Philosophique, 236

Cologne, 66, 69, 257

Colonna, Jean Baptiste, 311

Comte de Charolais (Charles the Bold), 300

Comte de la Hanse, 58

Condroz, 292, 369

Conference of Chatillon, 264, 265;
of London, 242, 268

Congress of Ghent, 170

Congress of Vienna, 101, 225, 242, 364

Coninck, Peter de, 39, 41, 42, 44, 46

Constitution of Belgium, 1831, 242

Consulate of France, 78;
of Spain, 8;
of Smyrna, 77

Convention (French), 219, 222, 263;
of The Hague, 264

Coolkerke, 62

Cossacks in Brussels, 224

Coudenburg, 177, 188

Cour des Princes at Ghent, 167

Court of Peace, 287, et seq.

Courtrai, 46, 84

Couvent des Dames Anglaises, 7, 23, 72

Coxyde, 152-154

Cranenberg, 4

Crecy, Battle of, 55

Creevy, Mr., at Brussels in 1815, 229

Cromwell, 66, 69, 74

Cumberland Hussars, 230

Customs House at Bruges, 49

Cuyck, Albert de, 289, 290, 291, 296, 297


Dalgetty, Dugald, 67

Dame de Bellem, 213

Damme, 10, 42, 43, 44, 49 et seq., 306;
population of, 51;
Röles de, 58;
harbour blocked up, 61

Dampierre, Guy de, 40

Danton, 219

Dardanelles (at Liége), 365

David, Gerard, 60

Denderleeuw, 175

Dendre, the River, 175

Deprysenaere, Jean, of Ypres, 105

Desmoulins, Camille, 220

Diderot, 354

Diet of Frankfort (1519), 326

Diet of Worms (1495), 323

Digues de mer, construction of, 139, 140

Dinant, situation of, 274;
people of, invade Namur and Luxembourg, 293;
declares war against Namur, 300;
destroyed by Charles the Bold, 301;
citadel rebuilt, 327;
now part of fortifications on the Meuse, 372

Donatian, Church of St., built by Baldwin Bras-de-Fer, 13;
Bertulf, Provost of, 17;
site of, 14;
murder of Charles the Good in, 15;
destroyed, 76

Don John of Austria, 66, 69

Dordrecht, 26, 27

Duinbergen, 54, 148, 149

Dumouriez, 220;
welcomed at Liége, 359

Dunes, Battle of the, 119;
scenery of, 157 et seq.

Durancy, Mademoiselle, 205

Dyle, the River, 183

Dyver, the, at Bruges, 9, 10


Edward III., 53-55, 58;
at Ghent, 166

Edward IV., 26

Egmont, Count, 98, 168, 170, 200

Elba, 224

Elias, sixth Abbot of Coxyde, 154

Enghien, 196

English competition with Flemish trade, 178;
with German, 267

English Merchant Adventurers, 78

Erard de la Marck, 325 et seq.
Erembalds, 16 et seq.;
feud with Straetens, 17;
destruction of, 21

Ernest, Archduke, 193

Ernest of Bavaria, 331 et seq.

Ethelbald, 12

Ethelwulf, husband of Judith, daughter of Charles the Bald, 12

Evendyck, 131

Everard de la Mark, 322, 323

Eyck, van, elder and younger, 14, 21, 60, 49, 129, 171


Ferdinand of Bavaria, 337, 339

Ferdinand of Spain, 190

Flanders, Count of, opposes Simon de Limbourg, 289;
joins in the War of the Cow, 293

Flanders, state of, in early times, 7, 8;
invaded by Normans, 11, 12;
origin of title 'Count of,' 14;
defended by Baldwin Bras-de-Fer, 13;
allied to England, 54;
neutrality of, in 1340 and 1830, 53;
invaded by French, 59;
plain of, 83 et seq.;
ignorance of country people in, 85;
smuggling between France and, 87;
annexed to France, 40, 100;
invaded by English, 92;
causes of disunion in, 106, 107;
ceded to the Infanta Isabella, 120;
contrast between different parts of, 129, 151;
coast of, 129 et seq.

Fléron, Théodore, 349

Fleurus, Battle of, 219, 220

Flotte, Pierre, Chancellor of France, 43, 47

Flushing, 61, 252, 255

Foréts, Department of, 363

Fox, Sir Stephen, 74

France, Flanders annexed to, 40, 100

France, Palais du, 7, 63

Franchimont, 315

Frankfort, Diet of (1519), 326

Frederic de Montigny, 320

Frederick III., 300

Frederick, Prince, attacks Brussels, 239 et seq.

French Consulate at Bruges, 78

French literature studied at Liége, 354

French Revolution, 357

Freyr, 274

Furnes, 110-118;
procession of penitents at, 113;
Church of Ste. Walburge, 110;
Hôtel de Ville and Palais de Justice, 110;
Church of St. Nicholas, 110;
Corps de Garde Espagnol and Pavillon des Officiers Espagnols, 112


Gambia, Lord, at Ghent, 167

Gand, Porte de, 15

Gardiner, Dr., quoted, 52

Gauthier de Sapignies, 45

Gembloux, 285

Genoese merchants, house of, at Bruges, 78

George III., 74

Germans at Antwerp, 267, 268

Germany, emigrations from Flanders to, 132

Ghent, 20, 42, 84;
trade of, 163, 164;
early history, 165;
Edward III. and Queen Philippa at, 166;
birth of John of Gaunt, 167;
of Charles V., 166;
fêtes at, 172;
disaffection during reign of Charles the Bold, 189;
Congress of, and Pacification, 168, 170, 171, 250;
marriage of Mary of Burgundy, 167;
Catalini, 231;
Louis XVIII. in, 1815, 226, 227, 230, 231;
Hôtel de Ville, 167, 168, 169;
Roland, the bell of Ghent, 173;
Rue des Champs, 227;
Rue Haut-Port, 169;
Abbey of St. Bavon, 170, 171;
Béguinage, 169;
Cathedral of St. Bavon, 171, 231;
Church of
St. Jacques, 169,
of St. Michael, 169,
of St. Nicholas, 169,
of St. Pierre, 169;
Marché du Vendredi, 169;
Carthusian Monastery, 167;
Cloth Hall, 173;
picture of Mary of Burgundy, 168;
Place Ste. Pharailde, 166

Ghiselhuis, 59

Gilliat-Smith, author of The Story of Bruges, 6

Gloucester, Henry, Duke of, 65 et seq.

Godfrey of Bouillon, 372, 374

Godshuisen, 64

Golden Fleece, Order of the, 26

Golden Spurs, Battle of the, 16, 39

Golf in Belgium, 145-148

'Governor of the English Colony beyond the Seas,' 78

Grand Alliance, 370

Grande Dame of Béguinage, 24

Grande Salle des Échevins at Bruges, 39

Great storm of thirteenth century, 132

Grignoux and Chiroux factions, 340

Groisbeck, Gérard de, 329, 331

Gruthuise, 7, 27

Guerre de la Vache de Ciney, 292, 293

Guildhouse of St. Sebastian at Bruges, 7, 72

Gustavus Adolphus, 67

Guy de Dampierre, 40


Haccourt, 322

Haecke, Canon van, 30

Hague, The, Convention of, 1790, 218

Hainaut, Counts of, vassals of Liége, 285;
Count of, opposes Simon de Limbourg, 289

Halle de Drapiers at Ypres, 103

Halle de Paris at Bruges, 78

Halles at Bruges, 5

Halloy, Jean de, 292

Hamilton, Sir James, 68

Hane-Steenhuyse, Comte d', 227, 230

Hannetaire, Monsieur d', 206

Hanseatic League, 58

Hapsburg, House of, 190

Hastière, 274, 329

Heinsberg, Jean de, 297

Henry II., Emperor, grants a charter to Liége, 284, 285

Henry IV., 289

Henry VIII., 171

Het Paradijs, 28

Heyst, 54, 80, 135, 136

Hobbema, 156

Hoensbroeck, César de, 355

Hogarth, 37

Holland, Béguinages in, 23

Holy Blood, relic and chapel of, at Bruges, 14, 28;
Procession of the, 32

Holy Cross, Relic of, 26

Holy Sepulchre, Church of, at Jerusalem, 29

Hoogenblekker, 130

Horn, Count, 99, 168, 170, 200

Hôtel de Bouchoute at Bruges, 4

Hôtel de Ville at Bruges, 7, 14, 15, 59, 81;
at Furnes, 112

Hougoumont, 232

House of the Seven Towers, 65, 66, 73

Hundred Days, 226-232

Huy, tournament at, 292;
rebuilt, 327;
taken by the Dutch, 336;
destroyed by Villeroi, 370;
citadel of, enlarged in 1892, 371

Hyde (Lord Clarendon), 67, 68, 71


Idesbaldus, St., 154

Immon of Chévremont, 282 et seq.

Imperial Chamber, 323, 355, 356, 358

Inquisition in Flanders, 113

Inquisition at Liége, 328

Installation of the Bishops of Liége, 331
Isabella, daughter of Philip II., 195

Isabella, wife of Ferdinand of Spain, 190

Isabella, the Infanta, 99, 112, 122

Isabelle de Bourbon, 313

Ivanhoe, 296


Jacobins at Brussels, 219 et seq.

Jacques de Horne, 320

Jacques de le Roy, 317

Jallet, 292

Jasper, La Ruelle's servant, 343, 344, 345

Jean III., Count of Louvain and Duke of Brabant, 182

Jean d'Arenberg, 317

Jean de Beaufort, 292

Jean de Horne, 318, 325

Jean de Ville, 305, 306, 308

Jean Sans Pitie, 297

Jean, son of Philip the Bold, 187

Jeanne, Duchess of Brabant, 182, 187, 198

Jemappes, 220, 359

Jerusalem, Baldwin, King of, 29

Jerusalem, Church of, at Bruges, 26

Jesse, Memoirs of the Court of England, 74

Jesuits at Bruges, 75

Jesuits, Rector of, at Liége, murdered, 349

Joanna of Navarre, 40

Joanna, wife of Philip the Fair, 190

John, King of England, 183

John of Bavaria, 297

John of Gaunt, 167

John of Ypres, 8, 9

Joseph II., 76, 100, 356;
succeeds Maria Theresa, 208;
his policy in the Austrian Netherlands, 209 et seq.;
demands opening of Scheldt, 262;
his death, 218

Joseph of Arimathæa, 29

Jourdan, 219

Joyeuse Entrée of Brabant: origin, 182;
variations of, 183;
Mary of Burgundy's Joyeuse Entrée, 189;
alleged infringement by Joseph II., 213;
restored, 218

Judith, wife of Baldwin Bras-de-Fer, 12, 110

Juliers, Duke of, 333

Jupille, 280, 351

Justice, Palais du, at Bruges, 14;
at Furnes, 15, 110


Kadzand, 57

Kermesse, 89, 90

King, Thomas Harper, 32

Kingdom of the Netherlands, 225, et seq., 364

Knights of the Golden Fleece, 26

Knocke, 54, 57, 138, 146, 147

Kuilemburg, Count, 191, 192


La Baule, Cardinal, 302

La Belle Alliance, 232, 233

La Cintray, 205

Lac d'Amour, 24, 25

Laeken, 223

Lamden, 370

Lamennais, 242

La Nogentelle, 205

La Panne, 135, 138, 141, 142

La Pinaud, 213, 222

La Roche, Count of, 288

La Ruelle, Burgomaster of Liége, 339;
is murdered, 345, 346

La Tour d'Auvergne, 373

La Haye Sainte, 232

Le Coq, 135, 144-146

Legend of Montrose, 67

Legia, the, 279

Lejeusne, Mathurin, 114

Leliarts, 15, 40, 181

Lemonnier, M. Camille, 373

Leonius, 30

Leopold I., 72, 133, 364

Leopold II., 145

Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, 234, 242

Leroz, 355, 356
Lesse, the, 274

Libramont, 374

Liége, 176;
boundaries of the principality, 273;
early history, 279;
churches of, enriched by plunder of Chèvremone, 284;
Court of Peace, 287;
charter of Albert de Cuyck, 288 et seq.;
sympathy with France in the fifteenth century; army of, defeated at Montenac, 300;
rules imposed by Charles the Bold, 302;
his oppressions, 303, 304;
destroyed, 308, 309, 310;
recovery of, 313;
concessions granted by Mary of Burgundy, 313, 314;
relations with Germany, 326;
episcopal palace built, 327;
objections to a Papal inquisition, 328;
Spanish garrison at, 329;
magistrates claim right to hold the keys, 330;
they usurp the powers of the Bishop, 339;
Chiroux and Grignoux factions, 340;
mob take the episcopal palace, 350;
a citadel built, 351;
state of, from 1650 to 1688, 353, 354;
study of French literature, 354;
revolution of 1789, 357;
taken by the French in 1792, 359;
welcome to Dumouriez, 359;
in favour of union with French Republic, 359;
Mirabeau's visit, 359;
Cathedral of St. Lambert destroyed, 360, 361;
revolution of 1830, 364;
Place Verte, 365;
Place St. Lambert, 365;
Rue Leopold, 365;
Pont des Arches, 365;
episcopal palace (Palais de Justice), 365, 366;
Hôtel de Ville, 367;
steel and iron works, 367, 368;
bombarded by Marshal Boufflers, 370;
taken by the English, 370;
modern fortifications, 371

Lille, 227

Lilly the astrologer, 68

Limbourg, Simon de, 289

Lincoln, Bishop of, 31

Lombaerdzyde, 120, 124, 156, 177

Londonderry, 252

Longfellow, quoted, 5, 38, 58

Loove, the, at Bruges, 18

Louis de Bourbon becomes Bishop of Liége, 298, 299;
lives at Brussels, 304;
is surprised at Tongres by the Liégeois, 305;
obtains concessions in favour of the town, 313;
is murdered, 316

Louis of Maele, Count of Flanders, 59, 93, 95, 186, 188

Louis of Nassau, 342

Louis of Nevers, 53, 59

Louis XI., 189;
encourages the Liégeois to revolt, 300;
instigates Charles the Bold against Liége, 310;
marches with him to Liége, 307;
employs William de la Marck, 314

Louis XIII., 341

Louis XIV., 99, 197;
takes Bouillon, 373

Louis XVIII., 226, 227, 230, 231

Louvain, 23; Albert de, 289;
capital of old Brabant, 177;
inauguration of Dukes of Brabant, 186 et seq.;
University, 211;
Séminaire Générale, 211;
Collège Philosophique, 236

Luxembourg, 99

Luxembourg, Count of, joins in the War of the Cow, 292, 293

Lyger, 152

Lys, the River, 165, 166


Maele, Louis of, 59, 93, 95

Maestricht, Abbey of, laid waste, 282;
siege of, 330

Magna Charta, 183

Maison des Orientaux, 77

Malines, 284

Malmedy, 282
Malplaquet, 371

Mannaert, 114

Manneken of Brussels, 217, 222

Marat, 220

Marbriers, Quai des, 13

Marchand, M., 343, 349

Marché du Vendredi at Ghent, 169

Margaret of Parma, 191

Margaret of York, 312

Marguerite of Maele, 186, 187

Mariakerke, 134

Marianne, daughter of Dame de Bellem, 214

Maria Theresa, 100, 203, 208, 209, 218, 354

Marie Antoinette, 216

Marie of Burgundy, 312, 313

Marie Louise, Empress, 222, 223

Marie, wife of Charles of Lorraine, 203

Mark of Baden, 300

Market-Place of Bruges, 3, 4, 5, 9, 39, 41

Marlborough, 371

Martel, Charles, 280, 281

Mary of Burgundy, daughter of Charles the Bold, 167, 168, 189, 190

Mary, 'The Gentle,' 26

Matins of Bruges, 15, 39

Maurice, Elector, 257

Maurice of Nassau, 119, 124, 126

Mauritshuis at The Hague, 157

Maximilian, Archduke, 4, 60

Maximilian, Archduke (afterwards Emperor), 318, 321, 322, 326

Maximilian, Henry, Bishop of Liége, 353 et seq.

Maximilian, husband of Mary of Burgundy, 167, 190

Mazarin, 66

Méan, Comte de, 359

Melrose Abbey, 153

Memlinc, 7, 60, 78

Merode, Field-Marshal de, 369

Meuninxhove, John van, 73

Meurs, William de, 336

Meuse Inférieure, 363

Michael Angelo, 26

Middelkerke, 134, 135

Minnewater, 24, 25

Mirabeau at Liége, 359, 360

Miracles wrought by the Holy Blood at Bruges, 31

Mons, 196

Monthermé, 274

Mont St. Jean, 232

Morgarten, 47

Mother Superior of Béguinage, 24

Mourentorff, Jean, 261

Muette de Portici, performance of, 238

Münster, Treaty of, 256, 262, 263

Murray, Sir Robert, 67

Musée Plantin-Moretus, 262


Namur, 196;
situation of, 274;
taken by Louis XIV., 370;
by William III., 370;
strategic importance of, 369, 370, 371;
fortifications round, 371

Nancy, 189; Battle of, 311

Napoleon: at Antwerp, 243, 264;
on the importance of Antwerp, 264, 265;
at Brussels, 222, 223;
departure to Elba, 224;
lands in France, 225;
at Charleroi, 228;
reported victory of, on June 17, 1815, 231;
at Bruges, 32;
return from Elba, 101;
canal to Sluis constructed by, 50

Napoleon III. at Bouillon in 1870, 374

Navarre, Joanna of, 40

Neutrality of Flanders in 1340 and 1830, 53

Nevers, Louis of, 53, 59

Nicholas I., Pope, 12

Nicholas, Sir Edward, 67

Nieuport, 119-128;
origin of, 131;
besieged by Prince Maurice, 124;
fallen state of, 127
Nieuport-Bains, 128, 129, 135, 141

'Nieuwerck,' at Ypres, 103

Nimeguen, Treaty of, 99

Nivelles, 123

Noé, Michael, 72

Normans in Flanders, 11

Norwich, Earl of, 67, 68

Notger, Bishop, 282 et seq.

Notre Dame, choir of, at Bruges, 312

Notre Dame, Church of, at Bruges, 7, 25, 76

Notre Dame de Lombaerdzyde, 156

Notre Dame de Thuine, 96


Oldenburgh, Grand Duchess of, 234

'Old England,' at Bruges, 78

Oosterlingen Plaats, 67

Oostkerke, 51

Orange, William of, King of the Netherlands, 225, 233, 235 et seq.

Orange, William of (the Silent), 192

Orange, Prince of, 225, 233, 234, 235

Orientaux, Maison des, 77;
Place des, 77

Ormonde, 67, 71

Osburga, 12

Ostend, canal from Ghent to, 164

Ostend, growth of, 126, 133, 135, 136

Othée, Battle of, 297

Otho the Great, 282, 284

Otlet, M. Paul, 136 note

Oudenarde, 371

Ouden Burg, 7

Ourthe, 363


Pacification of Ghent, 168, 170, 250, 329

Palais de Justice, at Bruges, 14, 15, 18;
at Furnes, 110

Palais de Justice at Liége, 327, 365, 366

Palais du Franc, 63

Paradijs, Het, 28

Parijssche Halle, 78

Paris, 141

Paris, Capitulation of, 1814, 224;
Revolution of July, 1830, 238

Parma, Duke of, in Flanders, 97

Parma, Prince of, 250, 252, 253, 256

Pauperism of Bruges, 64

Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 354

Peace of Utrecht, 371

Pepin d'Herstal, 280, 281

Peronne, Louis XI. at, 306, 307

Perron of Liége, 300, 303, 304, 314, 366

Pesche, Baron de, 341

Peter the Hermit, 369

Philip de Croy, Prince of Chimay, 333

Philip of Alsace, 165

Philip II., 190, 195, 253, 261, 329;
cedes Spanish Netherlands to his daughter, 120

Philip III., 120

Philip of Valois, 53, 56

Philip the Bold, 187

Philip the Fair, 39, 40, 42, 43, 46, 190

Philip the Good, 187, 188, 297, 298

Philip the Hardy, 293

Philippa, Queen, at Ghent, 166

Pitt, William, policy in the Netherlands, 263

Place des Orientaux, 77

Place du Bourg, 13, 14, 15

Plantin, Christopher, 260 et seq.

Polyglot Bible, 261

Pont des Arches, 365

Pont des Dunes, 155

Pope Clement V., 30;
VII., 93;
Boniface VIII., 43;
Celestine III., 155;
Urban VI., 93

Poperinghe, 104

Porte de Damme, 44, 50

Porte de Gand, 15
Porte Ste. Croix, 44, 45

Principality of Liége, boundaries, 273;
state of, under Burgundy, 276;
relations with Germany, 326;
during the sixteenth century, 327;
refuses to join the United Netherlands, 329;
neutrality proclaimed, 330;
proposal for union with Brabant, 356;
Austrian army enters, 358;
annexed to the French Republic, 359, 360;
boundaries obliterated, 363;
included in the kingdom of the Netherlands, 364

Procession of the Holy Blood at Bruges, 32 et seq.;
of Penitents, at Furnes, 114

Prud'homme d'Aillay, Marquis, 215

Pruyssenaere, Peter, 72


Quai Espagnol, 77;
Long, 49;
des Marbriers, 13, 63, 65;
du Miroir, 49;
de la Potterie, 49, 50, 155;
du Rosaire, 9, 49;
Spinola, 49, 78;
Vert, 63, 114

'Quarantaines,' 286

Quatre Bras, 229, 232

Quentin Durward, 296


Ramillies, 371

Ramsonnet, M., 356

Rastadt, Treaty of, 100

Redouté, Paul, 356

Réglement de Maximilien de Bavière, 353

René, Duke of Lorraine, 311

Rheims, 289

Richard I., 154

Richmond, Duke and Duchess of, 228

Robinson, Mr. Wilfrid, author of Bruges, an Historical Sketch, 6

Rochester, Earl of, 67

Rodenbach, 79

Rognon, M., 207

Roland, the bell of Ghent, 173

Röles de Damme, 58

Rome, flight of Baldwin and Judith to, 12

Roosebeke, Battle of, 59, 92

Rosaire, Quai du, 9

Roulers, 92

Route Royale, 141

Roya, 8, 9, 10, 13, 49, 50

Rubens, Joannes, 256, 257, 261

Rubens, Peter Paul, 256 et seq.

Rue Anglaise, in Bruges, 78;
de l'Ane Aveugle, 13, 15, 21;
des Carmes, 72;
Cour de Gand, 77; Espagnole, 76;
Flamande, 78; Haute, 65;
Neuve, 10;
du Vieux Bourg, 7, 9, 10, 66

Runnymede, 183

Ruysdael, 156

Ryswick, Treaty of, 370


Saizan, Baron de, 343, 344, 348

Sambre et Meuse, 363

Santhoven, 131

Sart, Comte de, 207

Scarphout, 132

Scheldt, the River, 243, 244, 245, 249, 251, 253, 255, 256, 262, 263, 265, 267, 268

'Schielt ende Vriendt,' 45

Schomberg, 99

Schönfeldt, General, 217

Schoutteeten, 26, 27

'Scotland,' at Bruges, 78

Scottish merchants at Bruges, 78

Scott, Sir Walter, 67, 296

Sedan, 372

See-Brugge, 80

Semois, 273, 274, 372

Senlis, 12

Senne, the River, 176, 181

Seraing, 358, 368

Sheppey, Isle of, 154

Sidney, Sir Philip, 255

Simon de Limbourg, 289

Sluis, 44, 51, 57, 59, 61, 306

Smet de Naeyer, Comte, 138

Smith, Gilliat-, 5, 6, 21, 22
Smyrna, Consulate of, at Bruges, 77

Société Deleau, 355

Société d'Emulation, 354, 359

Soignies, forest of, 176, 229

Spa, gaming tables at, 355, 356

Spaniards, at Bruges, 77;
at Furnes, 112, 113

Spanish Fury of Antwerp, 248, 250, 257

Spanish Inquisition, 113

Spencer, Henry, Bishop of Norwich, 92

St. André, Village of, 21

Stavelot, 282

St. Bartholomew's Day, 250

St. Basil, Church of, 28, 76

St. Bavon, 60

St. Bernard of Clairvaux, 28, 155

St. Donatian, Church of, 76

Ste. Elizabeth, Church of, 7, 25

Ste. Gudule, Church of, 26

Steinkirk, 370

Ste. Monica, Church of, 23

Ste. Walburge, Church of, at Bruges, 78;
at Furnes, 110, 154

St. George, Society of, 71, 72

St. Hubert, 280, 281;
town and abbey of, 281, 285, 329

St. Idesbaldus, 154

St. Jean de l'Atre, 311

St. John, Hospital of, 7

St. Lambert, 280;
Cathedral of, 279, 360, 361, 365

St. Martin, Church of, at Furnes, 96

St. Monulphe, 279

St. Nicholas, Church of, at Furnes, 110

St. Omer, Jesuits of, 75

St. Peter's, at Ghent, 20

Straetens, 17, 18

St. Sauveur, Church of, 7, 22, 26, 33, 76

St. Sebastian, altar of, at Nancy, 312

St. Sebastian, Society of, at Bruges, 71, 72, 74;
at Ypres, 92

St. Trond, 329

Stübben, Herr, 148

Swift, Dean, 37

Sybilla, wife of Thierry d'Alsace, 29

Sydenham, Colonel, 67

Syria, 26


Tales of a Grandfather, 296

Tarah, Viscount, 66

Tariff question in Belgium, 1829, 237

Terbanck, Monastery of, 184

Tercelain, family name of Plantin, 260

'Ter Streep,' 130

Tervueren, 205, 208, 234

Théâtre de la Monnaie, 201, 203, 223

Thierry d'Alsace, 28 et seq., 131

'Thuindag,' 96

Thurloe State Papers, 67

Titelman the Inquisitor, 112

Tongres, 284

Torquemada, 113

Tournai, 84, 176, 327, 328, 367

Tours, Battle of, 281

'Tower of London,' at Bruges, 78

Tragedy of the Passion, 201

Trauttmansdorff, 215

Treaty of Campo Formio, 264;
of Münster
of Utrecht, 262, 263

Treaty of Ryswick, 370

Trève de Dieu, 287

Trèves, 358

Tribunal de Paix, 287, 288, 291

Tricaria, Bishop of, 304

Truchses, Gérard, 255, 335

Turner, Sir James, 67, 70

Turnhout, 176

Twelve Years' Truce, 256, 337


Urban VI., 93

Ursol, Duc d', 221

Utrecht, Peace of, 371;
Treaty of, 262, 263
Valois, Philip of, 56

Van der Noot, 214 et seq., 222

Van Eyck, 14, 21, 49, 60, 129

Vanity Fair, 228

Vauban, 370;
fortifies Ypres, 91, 99, 100

Verdun, Henri de, 287

Verhaeren, M., Belgian poet, 144

Victoria, Queen, at Bruges, 72

Vienna, Congress of, 101, 225

Vieux Bourg, Rue du, 7, 9, 10

Villeroi, attacks Brussels, 196 et seq.

Virgin and Child, Statue of, at Bruges, 26

Voltaire, 354

Vonck, 217, 218


Walburge, Ste., Church of, at Bruges, 78;
at Furnes, 110, 154

Walcheren, 61

Walcheren Expedition, 264

Walloons, industrious character of, 275, 367

Warfusée, Count of, 342, 343 et seq.

War of the Cow, 292, 293, 295, 369

War of the Spanish Succession, 370

Waterloo, 231, 232; Battle of, 32, 101

Waulsort, 274

Weavers, Guild of, 41

Wellington, Duke of, 226, 228, 232, 234

Wencelas, 182, 186

Wenduyne, 131, 135

Westcapelle, 51

Westende, village, 120, 124;
Plage, 138, 139, 141, 142-144

Weyden, Roger van der, 188

Wild Boar of Ardennes, 313-321, 373

Wilhelmshöhe, 374

William, Bishop of Ancona, 31

William III., 196, 207

William of Orange, 329

Worms, Diet of (1495), 323

Wounded Eagle Monument at Waterloo, 232


York, Duke of, at Bruges, 66 et seq.

Ypres, 91-107;
field preaching near, 97;
churches sacked, 97;
taken by Parma, 97;
by the Protestants, 97;
Place du Musée, 98;
besieged by Louis XIV., 99;
fortified by Vauban, 91, 99-101;
ceded to France, 99;
described by Vauban in 1689, 100;
taken by the French in 1794, 100;
during the Hundred Days, 101;
end of military history, 101;
Grand Place and Cloth Hall, 102;
monopoly of weaving linen, 104;
manages with Bruges the Hanseatic League in Flanders, 104;
the Nieuwerck, 103;
riots at, 105, 106;
siege of, by English, 92 et seq.;
John of Ypres describes early Bruges, 8, 9

Ypres, 173, 175, 177, 244

Yser, 119, 120


Zoutman, Lambert, 361

Zutphen, Battle of, 255

Zuyder Zee, 132

Zwijn, 10, 52, 54, 55, 61