BETTER MEALS FOR

LESS MONEY

BY

MARY GREEN

NEW YORK

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

1917

Copyright, 1917,

BY

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

PREFACE

With the steadily increasing cost of all staple foods the need of intelligent buying, cooking, and serving is greater than ever before: more money must be spent for food, or more consideration must be given to selecting and using it. For those who would continue to serve their households well, and whose allowance for food has not kept pace with prices, there is only one alternative, and that is, to use more of the cheaper foods, and to prepare and combine them so skilfully that economy shall not be a hardship. Good meals depend not so much upon expensive material as upon care and good judgment in the use of ordinary material. The time-worn boarding-house jokes about prunes and hash mean simply that these foods, in themselves excellent, are poorly prepared and too frequently served.

It is the plan of this book to include a variety of (1) recipes which require only a small amount of meat; (2) recipes for vegetable dishes which can take the place of meat; (3) recipes for the economical use of cereals, dairy products, and other common inexpensive foods; (4) recipes for breads, cakes, and desserts requiring only a small amount of butter and eggs; and (5) recipes for a few relishes, condiments, and other accessories which lend variety and interest. The General Suggestions for Economy (Chapter I) are not all new, but are liable, through disuse, to be forgotten by the present generation. Spasmodic economy counts for little in the long run; only systematic and continued watchfulness is really worth while.

Economy, however, ought not to necessitate the total elimination of one's favorite cuts of steak, nor all of the little luxuries, because by the skilful planning of the majority of the meals the occasional use of these luxuries can be made possible.

This book is not intended as a complete guide to cookery; it presupposes an elementary knowledge of the care and preparation of food.

The study of Tables D and E in the Appendix is especially recommended as an aid to the better understanding of food values.

M. G.

CONTENTS

Before using recipes see Special Notice on Page 14.

CHAPTER I

Briefly stated, food is divided into three chief classes:[1] (1) Protein, which builds and repairs the tissues.[2] It is furnished chiefly by meats, fish, cheese, milk, eggs, cereals, and legumes. (2) Fats, which furnish heat and energy, but are chiefly valuable for storing a reserve supply of fat in the body. They are furnished largely by butter, cream, olive and similar vegetable oils, bacon and other fat meats. (3) Carbohydrates, which furnish heat and energy. They are supplied chiefly by potatoes and other vegetables, cereals, fruits, and sugars.

People who are eating the proper amount and kind of food should approximate the normal weight[3] for their sex, age, and height. For the proper maintenance of the body, a man of average height and weight, of sedentary life,[4] requires daily food which will yield about 2,500 calories;[5] a woman of average height and weight, about 2,300 calories (more or less according to activity). Children between two and five years require from 1,200 to 1,400 calories; between five and ten years, from 1,400 to 1,900 calories; and from ten to fourteen years, from 1,900 to 2,500 calories. Girls between fourteen and seventeen years require from 2,200 to 2,600 calories; and boys between fourteen and seventeen years, from 2,500 to 3,000 calories. Of the total number of calories furnished ten per cent. should be protein, approximately 30 per cent. fat, and 60 per cent. carbohydrates.

Before planning meals the consideration of these caloric requirements and the study of the "Caloric Value of Average Portions of Food" (Table D, page 245) and of the "Fuel Value of Raw Materials" (Table E, page 250) will help in the selection of foods to yield approximately the desired amount of nutrition. It is not necessary or desirable that the exact amount of each class of foods should be reckoned daily; but by the general study of foods and their nutritive value, and the food requirements of the body, which vary with age, sex, and conditions, the housekeeper may serve her family with the kinds and amount of food best suited to their needs. She should plan to use in a week as large a variety of food as possible, and to avoid an excess of any one class. With a definite idea of the needs of the family, she should take account of the stock in the ice-box and pantry, and see that every bit of food is utilized to advantage. Meals should be planned in detail at least one day in advance, and, if possible, outlined for several days ahead; though these plans must, of course, be varied slightly, at times, according to the amount of left-over material and the exigencies of supply and demand. Each day's programme should be plainly written; any special recipes to be used noted; and a list made of supplies to be ordered. To have the meals planned well in advance and the order list ready saves a deal of nervous energy, time, and money.

MARKETING

If possible, attend personally to your marketing and consider carefully the quality, quantity, and cost of your purchases in relation to the needs of your purse and your household. Ask for what you want, and try hard to get it; but in trying to buy supplies at lowest prices be sure that the time and nervous energy spent are not out of proportion to the amount of money saved.

MEAT

In considering the price of meat, the amount of bone, fat, gristle, and so forth should be taken into account. Many of the coarser and cheaper parts contain as much nutriment as the more expensive cuts, and can, by proper cooking, be made fully as palatable. See that every bit of left-over meat is used to advantage and in a variety of ways; the rinds of bacon and salt pork when cooked with spinach or other greens, or in soups of peas or beans, add both flavor and richness.

THE STOCK POT

All trimmings and bones, both cooked and uncooked, and any left-over bits of meat or gravy that are not needed for other dishes, should be put into the stock pot, covered with cold water, and simmered (not boiled) with soup vegetables and savory herbs for three or four hours. Almost any left-over vegetable can be added, including macaroni, rice, and the scrapings of the cereal cooker. If the family is small, the cereal cooker itself makes an excellent stock pot: to the remnants of breakfast cereal, add any soup material at hand; cover with cold water; cook slowly; strain; and, if necessary, add one or two bouillon cubes, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet. When soup stock is lacking in richness a small amount of gelatine improves the quality.

The water in which vegetables, macaroni, rice, or any meats, either fresh or salt, are cooked contains valuable mineral matter as well as flavor, and should be added wholly or in part to the stock pot. Order corned meats lightly salted so that all of the stock may be used. Be sure that all fat is removed from soup stock before using. Do not serve greasy soups. When stock must be used before the fat has had time to harden, skim off as much as possible, and remove what remains with clean blotting paper, or a lump of ice wrapped in cheesecloth.

FISH

Fresh fish is offered in variety at all seasons of the year, and is a valuable and comparatively inexpensive food; salted and smoked fish contain much protein in a concentrated form; the canned varieties are important, too, especially for the emergency shelf, as they furnish a substantial, inexpensive food which can be served in many ways at short notice.

GROCERIES

Groceries in sealed packages are, as a rule, slightly more expensive than those sold in bulk; but they are cleaner, often fresher, and more convenient to store and use.

BUTTER AND OTHER SHORTENING

To the taste of the average person, there is no real equivalent for the flavor of fine creamery butter, but, for cooking, excellent results may be obtained by the use of cheaper shortening, beginning with the common household fats which are so often discarded. All drippings from the roasts and fat from boiled meats should be carefully strained and saved; beef and chicken fat may be used in many recipes, including those for cookies, cakes, meat sauces, soups, and made dishes; bacon fat is excellent for corn cake, meat sauces, and soups of peas, beans, or lentils; sausage fat may be used for gingerbread, cookies, poultry stuffing, and also for frying potatoes and other vegetables, for in these the spicy flavoring is not objectionable. Both bacon and sausage fat and that from soup stock are useful for basting lean roasts, fish, or meat loaf. Any surplus fat, including that of lamb and mutton, should be clarified and added to that in the frying kettle. Fat which cannot be utilized for cooking should be made into kitchen soap.

COOKING FATS—OILS

There are many excellent brands of wholesome cooking fats and oils on the market, including peanut, corn, and cottonseed oil, and compound vegetable fats. Almost any of these costs less than butter.

OLEOMARGARINE

The best oleomargarine is wholesome and economical, and much to be preferred to inferior grades of butter.

MILK

Milk, even at present prices, gives good return in food value. Unsweetened evaporated milk, which is absolutely sterile and clean, costs no more, and in some places costs less, than fresh milk, and can be used to advantage to supplement the supply. Because of its consistency it is an excellent substitute for cream in frozen desserts.

CREAM

When eggs are relatively cheaper than cream, the stiffly beaten white of an egg may be used to advantage to mix with beaten cream. Thin cream whipped with a whip churn is lighter and less expensive than heavy cream beaten.

EGGS

Unless the winter's supply of eggs has been preserved in water glass, guaranteed cold storage eggs will be found satisfactory, and much cheaper than hennery eggs. Only enough for a few days should be bought at a time, however, and they should be kept in a cold place until used. Wash eggs before breaking, and save the shells for clearing boiled coffee, soup, and aspic. For coating croquettes, dilute each beaten egg with one-fourth cup of water or one-third cup of milk; cover unused yolks with water to prevent drying, and pour off water before using. Have both yolk and white of egg cold, so that they may be beaten more quickly; add a pinch of salt to whites of eggs which are to be beaten stiff, and beat in a current of air. Soft-boiled or dropped eggs not used at table should be put back in boiling water, cooked hard, and used for garnishing, egg sauce, etc.

CHEESE

Cheese is nutritious and, even at present prices, economical, as it contains a large proportion of protein in concentrated form. It can be successfully combined with many other foods, and every left-over bit should be so used; when partly dry it should be put through the food chopper, using a fine cutter; when very dry it should be grated and used in sauces, soufflés, soups, and many other dishes. Cheese is more readily digested if a pinch of baking soda is cooked with it. To keep cheese moist and fresh, brush the cut surface with melted paraffin. Save left-over Welsh rarebit for sandwich filling. The shells of Edam or pineapple cheeses should not be thrown away, but be filled with creamed macaroni, spaghetti, or rice, covered with crumbs, and baked in a hot oven.

FRESH VEGETABLES

A variety of vegetables should be served daily, and those which contain a large amount of protein, such as beans, lentils, and peas, should be used not only as an accompaniment to meat, but, in combination with other vegetables, sauces, bacon or other fats, as the substantial dish of the meal.

DRIED VEGETABLES

Dried vegetables should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours or longer, and then cooked slowly until tender; dried julienne should be soaked for twenty-four hours before cooking.

MACARONI, NOODLES, RICE, CEREALS

Macaroni, noodles and similar pastas, rice, and the cereals furnish much nutriment at low cost; oatmeal and corn meal are among our cheapest foods.

Ready cooked cereals, though they are convenient and give variety to the diet, are more expensive than raw cereals well cooked; not only do they yield less food value, but, being dry, they require more cream or milk to make them palatable.

LEFT-OVER VEGETABLES

Left-over vegetables and cereals, even in small quantities, should be saved for use in entrées, desserts, salads, sauces, and soups. Celery tops should be saved for flavoring and garnishing, the root stalk chopped and added to the stock pot, and the outside stalks stewed, creamed, or used for cream soup. The outside leaves of lettuce should be shredded for salad, or, for any large quantity, cooked the same as spinach.

CANNED VEGETABLES

The flavor of canned vegetables is improved if, before being cooked, they are rinsed with cold water and exposed to the air. Parsley and chives may be kept growing in pots in the kitchen window to be used as needed.

SALADS

Salads should be freely used at all seasons, and be made light or nourishing according to the foods served with them. They offer an opportunity to the housekeeper to exercise her ingenuity in combining various vegetables, meats, and fruits, especially left-over bits. Crisp white cabbage, shredded, may be used in place of celery.

SALAD DRESSINGS

Salad dressings need not necessarily be made of olive oil, for there are other good and less expensive vegetable oils well worth using, and many of the cooked salad dressings without oil are excellent.

BREAD

Various kinds of bread should be freely used, especially whole wheat and other cereal breads, and those containing raisins, dates, and prunes. Watch the bread-box, and see that every bit of bread is used in some way; the unused crusts should be dried, rolled, sifted, and kept in a covered jar for stuffing, crumbing croquettes, brown bread, puddings, or other dishes in which the color is not objectionable; cold toast or cut slices should be made into croutons, or used for canapés or French toast; other pieces should be used for croustades, or made into crumbs, both coarse and fine, for use in fondues, griddle cakes, omelets, sauces, and soups. Bits of crackers should be dried, rolled, and used the same as bread crumbs.

CAKE

None of the recipes for cake require more than two eggs; many, only one; and some, none at all. Water may always be used in place of milk, and any clean, fresh shortening may be substituted for butter, especially in the recipes which include molasses and spices. These cakes will not keep moist like richer cakes, however, and should be used soon after making.

Slices of stale cake and crumbs should be utilized in making other desserts in combination with custards, ices, preserves, etc.

BAKING POWDER

Do not use more baking powder than is necessary for good results; two level teaspoons to each cup of flour is the usual allowance, but one and one-half teaspoons each to each cup will be sufficient if the muffins, biscuits, or cake are quickly and lightly handled and properly baked.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS

When volatile flavoring extracts are used in cake, much of their strength is wasted during baking; grated rind or spices could well be used in their place, or only the icing or filling flavored. All desserts, whenever practicable, should be flavored when cold.

COLORING

The small package of red coloring which comes with gelatine is useful for coloring cakes, icings, and other desserts as well as jellies.

FRUITS

Fruits, either fresh, dried, or preserved, should be served at least once a day; dried fruits, such as apricots, peaches, and prunes, should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours or longer and then cooked slowly until tender. Raisins, dates, and figs yield a large food value at comparatively low cost. Bananas, which contain more nutriment than most fresh fruits, should be used for salads or desserts when the other courses are light. In cooking acid fruits, such as cranberries, plums, and cherries, less sugar is required if added after cooking. Parings and cores from quinces and apples can be made into excellent jelly; the rinds of watermelons are the foundation of a delicious sweet pickle; orange and grape fruit peel, when candied, are well worth the trouble of making. Surplus orange, lemon, and grape fruit peels, when dried, are not only useful for flavoring, but make an interesting and aromatic fuel for the fire-place; the nut meat found in prune stones tastes much like that of bitter almonds and can be used in place of them.

When making jelly remember that the pulp of the fruit after the juice has dripped from it may be made into excellent marmalade: cover with water, heat to boiling point, press through a sieve, add three-quarters of the amount of sugar, and cook until thick.

CANDIES

In spite of its cost, candy is now classed by many with the necessities rather than with the luxuries. After a little practice even the most elaborate candies can be successfully made at home, and the difference between the cost of a pound of the best ready-made candy and the cost of the raw materials is astonishing. For those who can spare the time, candy-making will prove both fascinating and economical. Recipes for a few after-dinner candies are given.

CONDIMENTS

A small supply of condiments and relishes, including kitchen bouquet, ketchup, and sweet herbs, and one or two table sauces, should be kept in stock, as they make possible a greater variety of flavors. Many home-made sauces and relishes can be easily and quickly prepared and are usually much cheaper than the ready-made varieties.

CANDLE STUBS

Candle stubs should be melted, strained through cheesecloth, and used for sealing ketchup, jellies, and preserves.

GARNISHINGS

Any dish, attractively garnished and served, pleases the eye, stimulates the appetite, and often lifts a simple meal out of the commonplace. Parsley, mint, celery tops, red and green peppers, olives, pickles, capers, cooked beets and carrots, hard-cooked egg, lemon cut in various shapes, nuts, cherries, and other small fruits are all effective if not too lavishly used.

UTENSILS

A reasonable equipment of kitchen utensils and a convenient, systematic arrangement of them will save time and strength. Kitchen scales are almost indispensable, and a cooking thermometer eliminates guesswork, especially in boiling sugar and heating fat for frying. Pans, molds, and cutters of various shapes prevent monotony; suitable baking dishes and covered casserole dishes simplify both cooking and serving; and food cooked or served in individual dishes is often more attractive. When the cogs of the egg beater slip, do not discard it, but tighten the rivet; keep knives well sharpened. Cream jars, jugs, bottles, or any other containers for which a charge is made, should be promptly returned to be credited.

FUEL

Do not waste fuel; concentrate your cooking; when a hot oven is needed for roasting meat or baking bread, plan to cook at the same time other things which require a high temperature; potatoes can be cooked in the pan with the meat; other vegetables and fruits can be cooked in the oven; and if a coal fire is used, a variety of food can be cooked in a steamer on top of the range without extra fuel.

Have the ashes sifted and save the cinders, which yield a quick top heat.

Economize gas by using the minimum amount necessary to keep food cooking at the desired temperature. When the boiling point is reached a small supply of gas will maintain the temperature.

Fireless cookers save much fuel and unnecessary heat, and are especially useful for any food which requires long, slow cooking, or for those foods of strong odor which so often scent up the whole house.

SPECIAL NOTICE

All ingredients in these recipes should be measured level, and the standard teaspoon, tablespoon, and half-pint measuring cup should be used.

Unless otherwise stated, one apple, onion, orange, etc., means one of medium size.

Sift flour before measuring, and fill cup lightly. Use pastry flour, unless otherwise directed, for thickening soups and sauces, and in all recipes where baking powder is used; use bread flour in all recipes where yeast is used.

The majority of these recipes are planned to serve four persons; those for chowders and other dishes which form the substantial part of the meal are sufficient for second helpings; those for cakes, muffins, and other breads are large enough to be served more than once.

CHAPTER II

Pot Roasting is cooking in an iron kettle or earthen pot in a small amount of water, after meat has been quickly browned in a small amount of fat in the frying pan or kettle. Cook slowly until very tender, with or without vegetables.

Roasting is cooking before an open fire. This method is seldom used in small households, although the baking of meats is commonly called roasting.

Sautéing is cooking in a small amount of fat in a shallow pan on top of range. Examples: sliced fish, meat, potatoes, eggs.

Simmering is cooking in liquid at 185° F. The bubbles should always be below the surface. Examples: ham, corned beef, soups.

Steaming. Dry Steaming is cooking by heat of steam, as in double boiler or tin, over or surrounded by boiling water. Examples: rice, brown bread. Moist Steaming is cooking by direct contact with steam as in a steamer or colander, over boiling water, closely covered. Examples: fowl, puddings, dumplings.

Stewing is cooking slowly in a small amount of water (about 160° F.) until food is very tender. Examples: beef, lamb, vegetables.

CHAPTER III

Mix devilled ham with a little grated cheese; spread on thin rounds of brown bread, and mark into quarters with finely chopped pickle. Chop fine the white of a hard-cooked egg, and cover two opposite quarters; press the yolk through a sieve, and cover the remaining quarters.

4.—CRAB MEAT CANAPÉS

Chop crab meat, mix well with seasonings, and spread on thin rounds of untoasted brown bread. Garnish with small cube of lemon.

5.—MOCK CRAB CANAPÉS

Use one cup of corn which has been drained from its juice; put through food chopper, using the finest cutter; add seasonings and cheese, and spread on small rounds of toast. Garnish with small pickles sliced lengthwise.

6.—GLOUCESTER CANAPÉS

Cook a small haddock roe in boiling salted water for fifteen minutes, remove skin, mash, add a tablespoon of butter, half a teaspoon of anchovy paste, one-fourth teaspoon of paprika, and enough cream to moisten; add salt if necessary. Mound on small rounds of toast, and garnish with sliced pickles and parsley.

7.—TUNA CANAPÉS

Chop fish, add seasonings, and spread on small rounds of lightly toasted bread. Garnish with sliced pimolas.

8.—CELERY RELISH

Cut large white stalks of celery in two-inch lengths, fill with cream cheese which has been seasoned with salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Garnish with a small piece of celery top.

9.—CHEESE AND APPLE RINGS

Pare and core apples, and cut in one-third-inch slices; mix cheese with seasonings and cream, beat to a paste, and spread or force through a rose tube on apple rings. Dust with paprika.

10.—SPANISH CHEESE

Cook together one and a half cups of soft or grated cheese with one-fourth cup of chili sauce until the cheese is melted. Serve immediately on toasted crackers or rounds of toast, as an appetizer or savory.

11.—CANTALOUPE COCKTAIL

Cut melon in small cubes, or in balls (using a potato cutter). Add chopped ginger, lemon juice, and sugar, and serve very cold.

12.—FRUIT COCKTAIL

Cut apples and bananas in small cubes; remove pith and seeds from oranges, cut pulp in small pieces, and add with juice to apples and bananas; add lemon juice and sugar, place in a shallow dish, and put directly on ice for ten minutes to chill; serve in glasses, and garnish with a Preserved Cranberry (see No. 670), or a spoonful of Mock Bar-le-Duc (see No. 666). Peeled Tokay or Malaga grapes and a little grated pineapple may be added to advantage.

13.—WINTER CHILI SAUCE

Mix, and simmer about half an hour or until thick.

14.—PICCALILLI