Bolivia

In a beautiful valley of one of the eastern serranias of the Royal Range, sheltered alike from the severe cold of the higher altitudes and the excessive heat of the lower plains, the city of Cochabamba lies smiling under a benign sun, surrounded by picturesque hills and fertile levels, with the snow-crowned summit of Tunari in view to the north, and the tortuous cañons of the Rio Grande stretching southward. Not in the Vale of Kashmir is the zephyr balmier or Nature’s varied expression more lovely. Its gardens blossom with the fairest flowers, and in its orchards grow the most delicious fruits. It is the metropolis of a region rich in production, the granary of the republic. As one of the oldest and most important cities of Bolivia, it possesses historical and social interest, as well as the attraction that scenery and climate afford, and claims attention not only for its own charm, but because it is the cradle of many of Bolivia’s greatest men.

At the time that the noble Don Francisco de Oropesa, Count of Toledo, the greatest of the viceroys, gave the order for the foundation of Cochabamba in 1570, he was visiting La Paz for the purpose of making a careful study of the conditions and needs of the Spanish colony in Alto Peru. The fact was called to his attention that several families among the loyal subjects of His Majesty King Philip II. were living in a valley which the Indians called Cochapampa, where they were completely isolated and suffering many hardships through lack of communal advantages. With characteristic promptness he immediately despatched a representative whom he provided with the necessary authority to establish a city, on the site of a pueblo called Canata, though there was delay in the execution of this plan, which was not definitely carried into effect until January 1, 1574, when, as before stated, the city was named Villa de Oropesa. The name was changed to Cochabamba in 1786, when King Charles III. bestowed upon it the title of “loyal and valorous,” in recognition of the distinguished services rendered by its citizens in quelling the rebellion of Tupac-Catari. The word Cochabamba is derived from the Quichua words cocha, meaning a “pool,” and pampa, a “field,” the valley being level and well watered, especially at its eastern extremity, where the city is located, at an altitude of nine thousand feet above the sea. The mountains of the serrania of San Pedro mark the eastern boundary of the city, and the colina, or hill, of San Sebastian overlooks it on the south. The river Rocha, a branch of the Tayapaya, which, in confluence with the Mizque, joins the Rio Grande, the principal affluent of the Mamoré, has its rise in the serrania near Cochabamba and flows along the northern and western boundary of the city, fertilizing the neighboring campiña, and making it perennially green and beautiful.

The city of Cochabamba has a population of about twenty-four thousand inhabitants, or of forty thousand including the suburban population, of which only three hundred are of foreign birth, chiefly Peruvians and Germans. It is divided into four sections, their location being determined by the four angles of the principal public square, the Plaza 14 de Setiembre. The central plaza of Spanish-American cities is often named in honor of some important historical event. The Plaza 14 de Setiembre in Cochabamba commemorates the date on which the patriots of Cochabamba rose in arms to fight for the cause of independence in 1809, two months after the installation of the famous revolution led by Pedro Domingo Murillo, and four months from the date of the uprising against the royal authority in Chuquisaca. A handsome stone column in the centre of the plaza bears the names of the patriots who led the movement, of whom Don Estevan Arze, Don Francisco del Rivero, and Don Melchór Guzmán performed marvels of valor in the terrible struggle that followed. The story of Cochabamba’s share in the noble fight for freedom is thrilling in interest, and has some romantic features which show the temperament of the hijas de Tunari. The women of Cochabamba are of the type of the ancient Roman matron in many characteristics, and more than one patriotic daughter of the Garden City has earned the admiration of posterity by her courageous efforts in behalf of the cause of liberty. The lives of Arze and Rivero were saved through the ready wit and quick action of Doña Lucia Ascui, the wife of an employé of the government, who learned of an intrigue by which the governor planned to get rid of these troublesome revolutionists. Promptly the noble lady sought means to warn them of their danger, though at great risk to her own life, and through her brave efforts they were able to make their escape to a place of safety. On September 14, 1809, these two leaders, at the head of an army of a thousand men, took the quartel of Cochabamba, the militia refusing to resist the attack, with which it was in full sympathy. The governor fled to Peru; and from all the country round, crowds of patriots came, armed with whips and sticks, the only weapons they possessed, eager to join in the revolution. Don Francisco del Rivero was elected military and political chief. On September 19, 1810, in open Cabildo, he was named governor, the dean of the cathedral church of La Plata and the high ecclesiastics of Cochabamba officiating. A patriotic curate, named Juan Bautista Oquendo, was the orator of the cause, and, under the magic influence of his revolutionary speeches, thousands flocked to the standard. Don Estevan Arze was appointed general-in-chief of the revolutionary forces, and the campaign began by a march on Oruro, resulting in the famous victory of Aroma, of which the immortal Bartolomé Mitre said: “Heroic Cochabambans, that alone, without arms, without generals, guided only by noble instinct and generous enthusiasm, valorously displayed the flag of insurrection, and seven days after the battle of Suipacha, armed only with clubs and tin cannons made by themselves, and with a few firearms, set out to meet the enemy, and in open field, man to man, defeated with blows the disciplined and well-armed troops of the viceroy on the glorious field of Aroma!” All through the war, the record made by Cochabamba patriots was one of heroism and self-sacrifice; and in the subsequent history of the republic the efforts of the people of this city toward the establishment of political order and progress are written in many successful reforms, entitling them to an important place in the annals of national achievement.

Some of the country’s greatest presidents, most learned scholars, and eminent divines have had their home in this charming city. Its society shows the influence of inherited refinement and culture; and if there are few evidences of great wealth, there are none of the deteriorating effects of over-indulged luxury which so often contribute to make society a mere fashionable show. When Cochabamba appears in promenade on the plazas or the Alameda, the effect is much the same as on the popular boulevards of London or Paris, but one hears nothing of the “social whirl.” In a dignified and leisurely way, life’s blessings are enjoyed, without extravagance or ostentation. It is true that the automobile has invaded Cochabamba, and may be seen any afternoon taking parties to the Alameda, to Cala-Cala, or to the colina of San Sebastian; but there is no exciting effort to break the record in speed, and motor-mania is as yet an unknown malady.

Cochabamba has six plazas, ornamented with trees and flowers and arranged for the convenience of promenaders, the 14 de Setiembre, Colón, San Sebastian, San Antonio, Gonzalez Velez, Santa Teresa, Gerónimo de Osorio, and Matadero. The Plaza Colón, situated at the head of the Alameda, is one of the prettiest parks in the city. The Alameda, popularly called the Prado, extends from the Plaza Colón to the river, and is the favorite driveway to Cala-cala on the opposite bank. At almost any season of the year the Prado presents an animated scene in the late afternoon and evening, when it is thronged with people, especially on days of fiesta. It was inaugurated with interesting ceremonies by General José Ballivian in 1848, and since that time has been the scene of many important episodes in national history. The Alameda is divided into five beautiful streets, which are separated from one another by rows of willow trees, rosebushes, and pretty shrubs. The central avenue is being beautified by fountains, monuments, and flower beds. The streets on each side are for the use of pedestrians, and the outside streets for driving and riding. On the opposite side of the city the plaza of San Sebastian is situated, at the foot of San Sebastian hill, but, unlike the Prado, it is almost deserted except on January 20th and August 6th, when the races are held there. San Sebastian, or, as it is called, Colina de San Sebastian, is a sloping hillside, where the air is so fresh and pure, and the scenery so beautiful, that everyone finds it a delightful resort. It has historical interest also as the site on which the famous insurrection of Calatayud broke out, in colonial days, when the news spread that Spain intended to tax the mestizos as well as the Indians in the collecting of tribute. The Plaza Gonzalez Velez, generally known as the Plaza de Toros, situated on the lower slope of the hill, is conspicuous for the imposing edifice which is its central adornment, and which is used as an arena for the bull fights. As this sport is not popular in Cochabamba, the plaza is seldom frequented, though from the upper windows of the building a magnificent view of the city and its suburbs spreads out before one in a charming panorama.

The most important public buildings of Cochabamba are on or near the Plaza 14 de Setiembre, which marks the centre of the city. The Government Palace, Palace of Justice, Municipal Building, and Prefectura, overlook this plaza, and are substantial structures, well built and sufficiently commodious. The Cathedral also faces the Plaza 14 de Setiembre, and is one of the handsomest edifices in the city. It is chiefly interesting to strangers because of the works of art to be seen among its treasures. The repentance of Saint Peter is represented in a figure of natural size carved in wood, and there is also a San Sebastian carved in wood, the Virgin of Lourdes, and the Crucified Christ. The city is divided into four parishes, Santo Domingo, La Compañia, San José, and San Antonio, each parish being in charge of a curate and his assistants. The history of the Church in colonial days was chiefly recorded in the benevolent and educational work done through the various religious orders, and Cochabamba was once an important centre, where the orders of San Agustin, San Francisco, the Jesuits, and others had their headquarters. Only three of the nine convents once existing in the city still remain, those of San Francisco, Santa Clara, and Santa Teresa. The former convent of San Agustin is now occupied by the theatre Achá, the temple and convent of La Merced have been appropriated as a market place, and other convent buildings are occupied as schools and hospitals. After the inauguration of the republic all the convents for men were abolished and their revenues applied to purposes of public instruction and charities. The nunneries which still remain are nearly all educational institutions as well as convents, and it is in these schools that the young ladies of the city are educated. Cochabamba is especially noted for its many churches and schools. In addition to the Cathedral, there are at least nine churches and convents, and the city has twenty-six primary schools, besides the university, two state schools, and the Colegio Conciliar, for the training of advanced pupils in high school work. The city has a public library of six thousand volumes of which two thousand are old books, which formerly belonged to the monasteries, some of them very valuable.

The public works of the city of Cochabamba have been improved during the present administration, and not only in municipal, but departmental affairs noted progress has been effected. The first observation which a traveller makes upon approaching the city is that the highroads are in splendid condition, showing that the prefect of the department has given special attention to this branch of his administration. The ex-prefect, Señor Dr. Isaac Aranibar, who was succeeded in office only a few months ago by the distinguished soldier and statesman General Zenón Cossío, accomplished many important reforms in the department, and was indefatigable in his efforts to advance its progress. He is now a deputy to the national Congress from that department, and labors faithfully in behalf of its people. Dr. Aranibar is a prominent statesman and politician, who, though one of the younger leaders, has made his influence count in national affairs with great credit to his judgment and patriotism.

As capital of the department, Cochabamba is the metropolis of a territory covering two thousand square leagues, and having a population of four hundred thousand. The department comprises ten provinces, each of which has its capital city and is the centre of a flourishing agricultural district. The provinces are Cercado, which includes the suburbs of the department capital; Tapacarí, of which Quillacollo is the capital, only a few miles distant from the city of Cochabamba over a road which leads through a magnificent avenue of shade trees along the entire route; Arque, with its pretty little capital, Capinota; Campero, of which Aiquile is the flourishing centre; Ayopaya, celebrated for the gold mines of Choquecamata; and the provinces of Mizque, Tarata, Totora, Punata, and Chaparé. Every climate may be experienced in a trip through the provinces of this department, from the cold which is never modified on the snowclad summit of Tunari, and the perennial springtime of more sheltered slopes and ravines, to the equatorial heat of the lower valleys and wooded plains that mark the more tropical waterways of the Amazon system. The influence of climate is seen in the vegetation, which is of the most varied character. On the high puna, at an altitude above twelve thousand feet as encountered along the road from Cochabamba to Mizque, vegetation is scant, though even here the farmer grows corn, barley, potatoes, and a comparatively new product called quinua, more nutritious and cheaper than wheat, for which it serves as a substitute. It is cultivated on all the high plateaus, and is increasing in favor as a staple food. On the slopes of the Cordilleras, Nature has made abundant provision for human needs, and every kind of agricultural product is harvested in plenty. Wheat, corn, beans, and a great variety of fruits are cultivated in the milder zones, and in the more tropical sections of the provinces of Chaparé and Totora coffee, cacao, quinine, sugar cane, rice, camote,—a yellow potato of delicious flavor, which has the appearance of the sweet potato,—as well as all tropical fruits grow in abundance. The chirimoya, in English called custard-apple, arrives at its highest perfection in this region, and the palta, elsewhere known as the alligator pear, and which in Mexico is called aguacate, is of delicious flavor. The granadilla, a peculiar fruit which looks something like a small orange with a hard, smooth skin, and is composed of a mass of seeds in a juicy, glutinous white pulp, is very refreshing, either as eaten, seeds and all, or made into a refreshing beverage. The province of Mizque is noted for its wine, though only the most primitive methods are used in viticulture, and the industry has never reached the degree of development which is possible under more favorable conditions. The Yuracarés, as the Yungas of Cochabamba are called, produce coca, cacao, tobacco, rice, and quinine, the chief shipping centre for all these products being the capital city of Cochabamba, from which they are distributed to their final destination.

The city of Cochabamba presents a busy appearance when the cargoes of produce arrive from the farms and forests of the interior, and it is not unusual for a street to be blockaded by one of these caravans. Large importing and exporting houses usually receive the products and direct their shipment. Not only do the surrounding provinces supply the market with some of the most important food stuffs and medicinal products, but from the hills are taken the marble, stone, clay, lime, sand, and other building materials used in the construction of the city’s most modern edifices. Berenguela, a native marble of great value and beauty, having something of the appearance of old ivory, is used a great deal for ornamental purposes. The attention of foreign travellers has been especially attracted to the excellent properties of berenguela and to the superior quality of all the building materials found in this department. The facilities for construction which the proximity of these materials affords is no doubt responsible to some degree for the handsome buildings that have been erected within recent years, among others, several for purposes of manufacture. Cochabamba is adding annually to the number and importance of its manufacturing establishments. Excellent saddles and harnesses are made here, leather is tanned, boots and shoes are manufactured, the weaving of ponchos of delicate silk and woollen fabrics is a special art, and in the country districts butter making is among the industries. A number of factories produce on a limited scale the more necessary articles of daily use, such as soap, candles, glass, etc. The breweries of the city turn out a million bottles of beer annually, and there are hat factories, wool and cotton factories, and a silkworm establishment. The silk is of a superior quality, the cocoons being white or yellow in color. The larvæ show the most robust health and strength, mulberry trees seeming to grow particularly well in this climate, and to afford the greatest possible nutrition to the silkworms. Cochabamba is quite celebrated for its lace making, and visitors to the city usually spend some time in examining the beautiful designs of the pieces offered for sale in the market. Many of the lace-trimmed articles are of the coarsest cotton material, but the workmanship is marvellous, and it is not unusual to see the poorest vendor wearing a petticoat bordered with lace a half a yard deep, made by herself. On feast days the cholas wear dozens of these petticoats, starched so stiffly that they make the skirt stand out like a balloon, and in Cochabamba, though less conspicuously than in La Paz, the cholas’ petticoats represent their chief wealth. Beautiful lace scarfs, lace edgings of the finest design, and lace curtains are made by the natives. Among the very poor some such industry is usually adopted to provide a source of revenue for the family aside from the wages earned by the husband, and in the humblest little hut there is generally a frame for weaving ponchos or a cushion for lace making, as most of the lace is made on cushions by means of bobbins and pins, though crocheted laces are also seen. As a rule, these humble homes are the abode of content, and they are wonderful examples of how little is needed to make the poor happy, where they do not have to face daily the terrible struggle which is waged by the less fortunate in large European and North American cities. There is a haven of promise for the emigrant in the glorious climate and fertile valleys of Cochabamba, and he will find a welcome here if he is industrious and honest, no matter what his nationality.

Cochabamba is growing, in spite of occasional dull seasons, which usually affect the progress of an agricultural community. The authorities of the municipality are doing all in their power to improve this beautiful city, and to provide modern conveniences wherever possible. A street car system is to be built which will connect the city with Quillacollo and other suburban towns, and improvements are to be made in lighting and otherwise providing for the comfort of the citizens. The driveway which leads to Cala-cala is being beautified and made more attractive, and the public baths are to be enlarged and improved.

Cala-cala is the most beautiful suburb of Cochabamba, and is the popular residence quarter for many of the leading families, and for nearly all the foreigners of the city. The European population is small, but it represents many countries, English, German, French, and other nationalities being counted among its leading citizens. One of the most attractive chacras in Cala-cala is owned by a North American, Mr. Oscar Ehrhorn, of San Francisco, California, who has lived in Cochabamba many years and is enthusiastic over the climate and the future business prospects of this section, which he regards as the garden spot of Bolivia. Others express the same opinion and predict a very prosperous future for this city, which some day will be one of the richest industrial centres of South America. Foreigners are treated with the greatest consideration and have equal privileges with the natives of the country. The completion of the new railway between Cochabamba and Oruro means a great deal to the people of this department, as it will serve to bring them at least three days nearer to the coast, and will place their rich products in many more markets than formerly. Whether in intellectual attainment or in material progress, Cochabamba has always been able to keep a leading place among the cities of Bolivia, and it is certain that her people will continue to maintain the title so often bestowed upon her as the “Athens of Bolivia” and the “Garden City.”