Bolivia

The city of San Bernardo de Tarija, founded in 1574 as a Spanish settlement for the headquarters of the missionaries who were working among the Indians of the Chaco, still preserves some of the characteristics of the old Spanish convent city, the handsome cathedral and the temple and convent of San Francisco being among its most conspicuous buildings. The city has an interesting history, the chronicles of colonial times, which are preserved in the national archives, recording such deeds of heroism on the part of its early inhabitants as are seldom surpassed in the annals of a people. When the Viceroy Toledo visited Potosí in 1573 he was informed of the great difficulties encountered by the Christian fathers in their efforts to civilize the Chiriguanos of the Chaco, and of the dangers in which they constantly risked their lives, and he at once decided to establish garrisoned Spanish towns along the frontiers of the Chichas territory, which adjoined that of the Chiriguanos. The Chichas were peaceable tribes, inhabiting the district now comprised in the department of Tarija, and they had suffered from the hostile and predatory Chiriguanos long before the conquest, the Incas having been obliged to construct fortifications for the protection of the vassals of the empire against these savages of the Chaco, who could never be brought under Inca dominion.

On January 22, 1574, the viceroy despatched a commission under the direction of a Spanish noble named Don Luis de Fuentes, with authority to found, in the valley of Tarija, a city with the name of San Bernardo de la Frontera. The founder received the title of captain and chief justice of the new city and of all its jurisdiction, extending for fifty leagues, twenty in the territory of the Chichas, and thirty in the Chiriguanos’ lands. He was also given full power to remunerate those who took part in the conquest and population of the new country, distributing among them the lands they were to occupy. As founder, he was rewarded with one-fourth of these lands. It is related that Don Luis Fuentes found it very difficult to secure colonists, because, though the viceroy promised much for the future, there was little to live upon in the meantime, and the atrocities constantly committed by the Chiriguanos struck terror to the hearts of the boldest. Finally about forty-five Spaniards from Potosí and Chuquisaca were induced to settle in the new town, an equal number of Indians were employed to begin the work of laying out the town and constructing the houses, and the vicar of a Dominican convent of Chuquisaca was engaged as chaplain to the people. With such an insignificant defense did the brave missionaries establish their headquarters on a frontier where more than six thousand Indians were prepared for war, offensive and defensive, opposing with poisoned arrows any attempt of the Spaniards to interfere with their raids on the Chichas’ camps. While the millionaires of Potosí were enjoying the luxury of their wealth from the mines of the Cerro, and the Spanish monarch was employing his newly acquired revenues to equip the famous Armada with which he hoped to bring new glory to Spanish arms and humiliation to Queen Elizabeth of England, a few devoted soldiers of the Cross were establishing themselves, without aid and without ostentation, on the remote frontiers of a new country, in the midst of a savage people, surrounded by danger, and menaced by starvation, to work for the civilization and conversion of colonial Spain. They renounced comfort, peace, and security, and went into voluntary and lifelong exile among the Indians to accomplish their purpose.

The tradition relating to the supposed missionary journeys of Saint Thomas in South America is associated in a singular way with the sacred relics long preserved in the church of Tarija. Soon after the foundation of the city, a large wooden cross, apparently very old and having done much service, was found by an Indian in one of the caves of the hills several leagues distant from the city, in a part of the country which, it was supposed, had not hitherto been visited by the Spaniards. The cross, which was about fifteen feet in height, was much worn, and the bottom was decayed as if from having been buried in the ground. The only explanation of its origin was supplied by the Indians of the Chaco, who, like the natives of the Titicaca region, had a popular legend of a tall man of pale complexion, with long hair and beard, and dressed in flowing garments almost to his feet. Their ancestors had handed down the story that the pale stranger was a great teacher who went about among the tribes, telling them that God had come into the world and died on a cross, like one which he brought with him and set up in their midst. The sacred relic was placed in the church of Tarija, which became celebrated as a shrine where many miracles were wrought. Whatever may be the true story of this particular cross, it is believed by many students of the history of the South American Indians that a cross was used as a religious symbol by some of the tribes long before the discovery of America by Christopher Columbus.

The city founded under such adverse circumstances grew slowly at first, the population being reduced soon after its foundation to about twenty-five inhabitants; but the resolute spirit of the colonists triumphed over disaster and sickness, and gradually the town increased in numbers, importance, and wealth. In 1690 the little settlement had three hundred citizens, five convents, a hospital, and a college. During the viceroyalty Tarija was under the administration of the Intendencia of Potosí, but after the inauguration of the republic the department of Tarija was formed, with San Bernardo de Tarija as its capital city. The name Tarija was given in honor of the discoverer of the site on which the city was founded. It lies in a picturesque valley at an elevation of seven thousand feet above sea level, and is noted for its delightful climate and beautiful scenery. The present population is eight thousand, of whom about two hundred are foreigners. As capital of the department, Tarija is the residence of the prefect, and the seat of a court of justice, university council, committee of public safety, and other departmental organizations. The city has an excellent public library, twelve schools for primary and secondary instruction, a university, two banks, a hospital, and public buildings of minor importance. Many of the private residences are handsome modern structures, of European style, with pretty gardens and shade trees to beautify them. Two newspapers are published, one of which, La Estrella de Tarija, was founded many years ago. The social life of Tarija is particularly charming, the people being cultured and gracious in manner and extremely hospitable. The city has not hitherto been especially noted as a commercial centre, though always an important highway for traffic entering Bolivia through Argentina. It has been chiefly regarded as a city more distinguished for political than commercial influence, as its most prominent men have always been identified with the affairs of government. The present minister of instruction, Señor Don Juan Saracho, was born in Tarija, which was also the birthplace of ex-President Arce and of the illustrious soldier and statesman General Campero. Senator Tomás O’Connor d’Arlach, one of Bolivia’s best poets, is a Tarijeño, belonging to a family who have, for generations past, been among its most distinguished citizens. The fame of its Christian teachers and missionaries is still preserved by such self-sacrificing and kindly souls as Father Giannechini, who is esteemed not only by his own people, but by many foreign travellers who have enjoyed his assistance and hospitality. Dr. Crevaux, the noted French explorer of the Chaco, not only reported to the Bolivian government how deeply he was indebted to the good father for aid and information, but paid an enthusiastic tribute to the noble priest in his letters to the French government as well. He has accompanied several hazardous expeditions through the wilds of the Chaco, and was chaplain to the Bolivian commission which in 1883 made a survey of the national territory bordering on the Paraguay River. The explorer Thouar and his party expressed in letters their eternal gratitude for the kind services shown them by Father Giannechini, whose name is known to all travellers who have occasion to journey in this part of Bolivia.

Not only have explorers visited Tarija in the interests of botany and ethnology, which present special features in the region of the Chaco, but palæontologists have found in the vicinity of the city itself some of the most valuable fossils ever discovered. In all the great museums of the world specimens from the valley of Tarija are on exhibition, and especially in the Museum of Natural History of Paris, to which the noted naturalist H. A. Weddell contributed many fine fossils as a result of his visit to this region. He describes the valley as having the aspect of an immense channel, which he thinks it evidently was at some period. The hills scattered over its surface give apparent proof that it was traversed by much more tumultuous currents than those that now water its course. The diluvial nature of the soil is particularly evident in the immediate vicinity of the city, where the ground is cut in all directions by deep fissures crossing each other in a labyrinth, and leaving isolated hillocks at intervals, some of them distinguished by the most bizarre shapes. The walls of these gullies show plainly that the soil of the valley, down to a great depth, is formed of an immense bed of mud, due to the former action of a strong current of water. The fossils found here, according to Mr. Weddell, are of various kinds. His collection included not only the Mastodonte Humboldtii, but the remains of about fifteen other animals of the mammiferous species. He unearthed bones and teeth of the Megatherium, a variety which was larger than the rhinoceros, and found fragments of prehistoric shellfish, rodents, ruminants, species of the horse, the deer, and other animals, all herbivorous, with the exception of a single specimen which is supposed to belong to the bear family. Mr. Weddell’s theory is that a powerful current of water brought the fossils from another locality, and as its force was abated in passing through the valley, they were deposited in this place.

Tarija is chiefly interesting as the centre of a territory which is rich in industrial possibilities and practically an unexploited field for enterprises of this character. The department covers an area of one hundred and eighty-four thousand square kilomètres and is divided into six provinces: Cercado, Mendez, Aviléz, Arce, Salinas, and Gran Chaco. All the provinces, with the exception of the Gran Chaco are traversed by serranias of considerable altitude, though diminishing toward the east, where great rolling plains and gently sloping hills provide abundant pasturage for cattle. On the higher levels, wheat, corn, and barley are grown of a superior quality and in plenty, while the more tropical districts of the Chaco yield bountiful harvests of rice, tobacco, and the usual tropical products. In the mountain districts minerals and precious stones are found, but little capital has been invested for the development of mining properties. The climate is superb in the western part of the department, the Gran Chaco being more tropical, though healthful and agreeable. All the rivers of this region are tributaries of the Paraguay: the Pilcomayo and the Bermejo are the principal waterways.

In a recent report to the supreme government, the Prefect of Tarija, Colonel Don Leocadio Trigo, gives a complete description of the climate, natural resources, and the inhabitants of the Gran Chaco, which affords a glimpse of the condition and people of this little known but very important province. Colonel Trigo led an expedition which explored the left bank of the Pilcomayo for fifty leagues down its course, starting from Caiza, a few miles north of Yacuiba on the Argentine boundary. From Caiza to the Crevaux colony, one of the recently established posts on the river, at about twenty-two degrees south latitude, the distance is twenty-five leagues, fourteen of which extends through fertile territory, offering little difficulty to development. Crevaux colony lies on a beautiful peninsula, on the right bank of the Pilcomayo, and is the centre of extensive pasture lands. A small garrison is established here. From Crevaux colony to the next settlement on the river. Fort Murillo, the distance is six leagues, the river being crossed at this point in small canoes, which the Indians call chalanas. At Fort Murillo sugar cane is cultivated, though cattle raising is the chief industry. From Fort Murillo to Fort Campero, about thirty leagues further down the river, the exploring party passed through the territory of the Tobas and the Chorotis, Indians of the Chaco, semi-civilized tribes. Many estancias belonging to Bolivian ranchmen were visited on the way, one of the largest being the property of Señor Gomez, a typical “cattle king” of the Chaco. Everywhere pasturage was abundant, and sufficient fish and game were caught for the needs of the expedition. At the estancia of Señor Gomez the prefect was visited by several chiefs of the Tobas, to whom the friendly mission of the government was explained satisfactorily, the Indians promising not to oppose the progress of civilization in their territory. From Fort Murillo onward the bosques, which were frequent higher up the river, became more scattered and of lesser growth, disappearing finally in open fields of pasturage. The river Pilcomayo at various points overflowed its low banks, spreading out in marshes, or bañados, changing its channel, and occasionally forming peninsulas, on which rice, sugar cane, cotton, and corn are grown almost without cultivation. As the river approaches the Paraguay its channel becomes deeper and narrower, and its banks higher and better defined, making navigation easier. The zone inhabited by the Chiriguanos is marked by a great forest of palm trees which stretches along the river bank for a considerable distance. In an interview with the Indian chief it was learned that these tribes were better disposed than formerly to come under the influences of civilization, and their leader asked for supplies and the necessary guarantees, which were given, the chief being presented by the prefect with a Remington rifle to insure his protection against invading hordes.

At Fort Campero, on the river Pilcomayo, the territory of the Tobas joins that of the Chorotis, the tribes of which are three times more numerous and are in possession of a much greater extent of land than the Tobas. Still further down the river the Tapietes are dominant, living in the depths of the forests and remaining completely uncivilized. The other two tribes are more advanced, and frequently seek employment in the haciendas and pueblos of Gran Chaco. In all their settlements, Indians are met with who speak a little Spanish. Colonel Trigo, in his report of the expedition, says that while their arrival appeared to cause little surprise to the Tobas, who received them all along the route with friendliness, the Chorotis tried by every possible means to discourage their progress by depicting all kinds of dangers. As the party proceeded in spite of the evil predictions of the Indians, the country presented a more beautiful aspect than anything seen before. The pasture was rich and covered a vast extent of territory, and distant bosques lent a picturesque variety to the scenery. Beyond this magnificent stretch of plain, which the enthusiastic explorers called a perfect paradise, they came upon a Choroti settlement, which marked the boundary line between the territory of the Chorotis and the Tapietes. Here they rested for the night, the Indians refusing to trade with them, or even to converse, until they had assembled in parliament. When it was made known to them that the government sought their protection and well-being, and the advancement of civilization in their midst, they appeared well pleased with the idea. The conference ended with the distribution of the usual presents of tobacco and other articles, the oldest woman of the tribe chanting a weird, monotonous song in token of the friendly acceptance of the strangers’ visit.

The story of the journey made by the Prefect of Tarija and his commission for fifty leagues through unexplored territory and in the midst of uncivilized Indians has many interesting features besides the simple relation of meetings with friendly tribes and the usual experiences of an exploring party. There were days when the heat was intense, when the path led through dense forest, over sandy stretches, and through thorny undergrowth where it was necessary to cut a route with hatchets. The guides were not always faithful, and seldom truthful, especially those of the Chorotis, who did not at first relish the idea of the white man’s invasion, though they became good friends of the expedition as its motive was made known. The Tapietes offered no welcome to the advancing party, but, on the contrary, burned their camps at the newcomers’ approach. When face to face with the prefect and his followers, however, the Tapietes did not show themselves so valiant. The firearms and other accoutrements of the white man filled them with especial admiration for his prowess. After the usual formalities, they were informed of the purpose of the expedition, and gave the promise of their friendliness.

The exploration made by the Prefect of Tarija along the course of the Pilcomayo proves that it waters a region rich in pasturage and offering great advantages for colonization. Much of the territory through which the journey was made is as abundant in pasturage as the best lands of Argentina, and there is practically no limit to the possibilities of development. On the few estancias scattered throughout the country fine cattle and horses are reared, and chickens, ducks, and other barnyard fowl thrive here. The journey gave proof of the facilities existing for the opening up of traffic in this part of Bolivia by way of the Pilcomayo and Paraguay Rivers, as navigation for small craft is easy and boats and barges of sufficient capacity for carrying considerable cargo can be used on this waterway. Dr. Santiago Vaca Guzmán has written an interesting book entitled El Pilcomayo, in which he gives a great deal of valuable information about this great river: The Pilcomayo, in its course of six hundred miles, waters three distinct regions; that of the Bolivian serranias, where it rises, called the puna by some geographers; that of the plains, where it spreads out over a wide area in the rainy season; and that of its embouchure, comprised in the delta by which it enters the Paraguay. In its long course it receives several affluents, the Tarapaya being particularly notable as the stream which supplies many ingenios of Potosí with water, and which, during the early period of the silver mining industry, carried millions of dollars’ worth of the precious metal down to the Pilcomayo. It is the opinion of those who have explored the Pilcomayo that it may be made navigable from the point where its main tributaries enter the river at the base of the Royal Range to the Paraguay, and that in order to accomplish this benefit it is necessary only to use a dredge in some parts and to clear the débris in others, so that the river course may be better regulated.

The name of Chaco is generally applied to the great region which extends from the province of Chiquitos in the department of Santa Cruz to the Rio Salado on the northern border of the Argentine pampas. It is divided into the Chaco Boreal, or northern Chaco, of which Puerto Pacheco is the chief river port; Chaco Central, of which Villa Hayes is the river port at the mouth of the Pilcomayo, and Chaco Austral, in the Argentine republic. By a recent treaty of limits with Argentina, Bolivia ceded its claim to that part of the Chaco comprised between the Pilcomayo and Bermejo Rivers.

The new railway which is to connect Yacuiba with Santa Cruz will assist in developing trade and encouraging immigration in this promising province, and within a few years the Gran Chaco, which has always been regarded as the least important province of the department, because of its isolation from the highways of travel and its almost total occupation by the indigenes, will be one of the most prosperous districts of eastern Bolivia. The Indians are, as a rule, peaceable and friendly, except in a limited district where few white men have penetrated except on scientific expeditions. The stories of attacks by the Indians are very often exaggerated, and the traveller is frequently to blame for the antagonism of the tribes. The unsettled territory is becoming more and more reduced as the opportunities for industrial enterprise are being recognized, and few regions exist where the conditions are more favorable for colonization than on the plains of the Chaco. Tarija will always be the chief metropolis of this part of Bolivia; and while its riches increase as the centre of valuable agricultural provinces, its importance will be still greater as the chief market for the cattle of the vast pasture lands of Gran Chaco.