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Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy

Chapter 2: TO M.
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A blend of historical narrative, travel impressions, and local folklore sketches, the author surveys South Burgundy's landscapes, religious foundations, and ducal courts. He traces medieval monastic movements and abbeys, describes architecture, sculpture, and ruins, recounts regional legends and village stories, and evokes vineyards, towns, and rural life through personal observation and reproduced illustrations. The text pairs antiquarian research and bibliographic citations with on-site impressions and translations of Burgundian tales, offering both factual description of monuments and evocative sketches of the area's topography, character, and cultural traditions.

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Title: Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy

Author: Percy Allen

Illustrator: Marjorie Nash

Release date: August 26, 2014 [eBook #46689]
Most recently updated: October 24, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Matthias Grammel, Ann Jury and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BURGUNDY: THE SPLENDID DUCHY. STORIES AND SKETCHES IN SOUTH BURGUNDY ***

BURGUNDY: THE
SPLENDID DUCHY


BY THE SAME AUTHOR

IMPRESSIONS OF PROVENCE. FOOLSCAP QUARTO, 12/6 NET

SONGS OF OLD FRANCE. CROWN 8VO. 6/- NET

LONDON: FRANCIS GRIFFITHS


MONT BEUVRAY.

Frontispiece


BURGUNDY: THE
SPLENDID DUCHY

STORIES AND SKETCHES IN SOUTH BURGUNDY

BY

PERCY ALLEN

AUTHOR OF "IMPRESSIONS OF PROVENCE" ETC.

Fully illustrated with eight water-colour and 86 line drawings
by Miss Marjorie Nash

LONDON

FRANCIS GRIFFITHS

34 MAIDEN LANE, STRAND, W.C.

1912


TO  M.

TANT L VAUT, the Virgin name, Five hundred years ago, On stately hall and tower aflame, Blazoned in gold, bade all acclaim Her worth in high Rochepot.
Here above London's roar I sit, To watch the splendour flow O'er myriad roof-trees glory-lit, And read,—with golden fingers writ— A sunset's TANT L VAUT.
Darkness and stars begin to be, Light leaves the world below; Turning, a gracious form I see, And vesper music wakes in me— Ma deboinaire, très doulce amie, Seule Etoile, TANT L VAUT.



PREFACE

I have to thank very cordially my friend, Monsieur François Fertiault, for his kindness in permitting me to make use of the valuable material comprised in his charming books upon rural Burgundy; and I have also to thank M. A. de Charmasse and his publisher, M. Dejussieu, of Autun, for placing at my disposal the information contained in that author's Précis Historique to "Autun et ses Monuments" and in the archeological portion of the same work, written by the late M. H. de Fontenay, a book which I recommend to those who wish to study fully the stones of that interesting city.

I have also to acknowledge the kindness of Mm. Mame & Fils, of Tours, in granting permission to translate the Burgundian legends, "Le Creux du Diable," "Le Puits de St. Martin," and "L'Abbaye de Ste. Marguerite," by the late Abbé B——, published by that house: also the courtesy of M. Gabriel Hanotaux, of the French Academy, and of his publishers, Messrs. Hachette, of Paris, in permitting the reproduction of a portrait of Philippe le Bon (p. 191) from his recent work on Jeanne d'Arc. My thanks are due, too, to M. Perrault-Dabot, who kindly allows me to make use of the engraving of Cluny (p. 72) from his work "L'Art en Bourgogne."

If the support given to this volume on South Burgundy justifies me in doing so, I hope, before very long, to follow it by a second, dealing with the northern part of the duchy.

Among the works consulted in writing this book are the following:—

LIST OF WORKS CONSULTED

THE DATES REFER TO THE EDITION MADE USE OF

Olivier de la Marche

"Mémoires"

1819

Olivier de la Marche

"Le Chevalier délibère."

1842

C. R. de Caumont de la Force

"Histoire secrète de la Bourgogne"

1694

Brugière de Barante

"Histoire des Ducs de Bourgogne de la Maison de Valois"

1825-6

Ernest Petit

"Histoire des Ducs de Bourgogne, de la Race Capétienne" 9 vols.

1835-1905

Dom Urbain Plancher

"Histoire Générale de la Bourgogne." 4 vols.

1739-81

Philippe de Comines

"Chroniques", etc. 5 vols.

 

Claude Courtépée

"Voyages en Bourgogne"

1905

Claude Courtépée

"Description du Duché de Bourgogne"

1775-85

A. Kleinclausz

"Histoire de la Bourgogne."

1909

A. Kleinclausz

"Régions de la France; La Bourgogne"

 

Francis Miltoun

"Castles and Châteaux of Old Burgundy"

1909

Sir G. F. Duckett (Bart.)

"Abbey of Cluny"; 1839 "Charters and Records"

1888

P. Lorrain

"Essai Historique sur L'Abbaye de Cluny"

1839

J. Pignot

"Histoire de L'Ordre de Cluny" 3 vols.

1868

A. Penjon

"Cluny; La Ville et L'Abbaye"

 

Cistercian Monk

"A Concise History of the Cistercian Order"

1852

H. Collins

"The Cistercian Fathers"

 

M. T. Ratisbonne

"Histoire de Saint Bernard"

1843

G. Chevallier

"Histoire de St. Bernard"

1888

François Fertiault

"Rimes Bourguignonnes"

1899

François Fertiault

"Histoire d'un Chant Populaire Bourguignon"

1883

François Fertiault

"En Bourgogne; Récits Villageois"

1898

François Fertiault

"Une Noce d'Autrefois en Bourgogne"

1892

François Fertiault

"Le Cher Petit Pays"

1903

A. Perrault-Dabot

"L'Art en Bourgogne"

1897

A. Perrault-Dabot

"Le Patois Bourguignon"

 

P. G. Hamerton

"Round my House"

 

P. G. Hamerton

"The Mount"

1897

H. de Fontenay

}

"Autun et ses Monuments"

1889

and

}

 

A. de Charmasse

}

"Autun et ses Monuments, Précis Historique"

1889

Joseph Déchelette

"Guide des Monuments D'Autun"

1907

Joseph Déchelette

"L'Oppidum de Bibracte"

 

Alphonse Germain

"Les Néerlandais en Bourgogne"

1909

M. L'Abbé B——

"Légendes Bourguignonnes"

1872

M. L'Abbé B——

"Tebsima"

1872

Lettres d'Abailard et d'Héloise; Nouveau receuil, etc.

1720

Matthew Arnold's Poems

1885

Jules Baux

"Richesses Historiques et Archéologiques sur L'Eglise de Brou"

1844

Camille Jullian

"Vercingetorix"

1902

Camille Jullian

"Histoire de Gaule"

1908

Camille Jullian

"Tableau sommaire de la Gaule sous la domination romaine."

1892

S. Cambray

"Lamartine; A Study"

1890

Lamartine

"Confidences; A Study"

1849

Lamartine

"Le Tailleur de Pierre de Saint Point; A Study"

1851

Michelet

"Histoire de France"

 

Viollet-le-Duc

"Dictionnaire Raisonné"

 


INTRODUCTION

Although the history of Burgundy is intimately connected with that of England—the policy of the Valois Dukes, for example, affected profoundly our national destinies during the hundred years' war—the average English reader's knowledge of the subject is contained within the four corners of a wine list. He knows Beaune—knows the name well, as that of a drinkable brand, may have blessed it in his heart, when a ray from the shaded lamp shot through its ruby depths. If by any chance he loves Meredith, he may, even, under its kindly influence, have whispered to his fair partner, Dr. Middleton's phrase: "Burgundy has great genius; Burgundy sings the inspired ode." But should his lady slip in a question concerning this ruddy heartener of man, he could not answer; he would stumble between the Côte d'Azur and the Côte d'Or.

Not another town of Burgundy could he name. Dijon he knows, and remembers; because there he scalded his throat with hot coffee, gulped down, at three in the morning, on the way home from the Riviera; or, bound for Switzerland, he may have passed through the town. But he does not know Dijon as a Burgundian Capital, nor as a proud city of royal palaces and unrivalled sculpture. At most, when he hears the duchy named, there floats through his mind a shadowy memory of Henry V., or of King Lear.[1]

Yet Burgundy was the scene of events vital in the making of Europe. It was one of the strongholds of Roman civilization. It saw the genesis of a religious movement that was the greatest feature of eleventh and twelfth century history. Cluny was a nursery of popes; Citeaux became a breeding ground of saints; their abbots lorded it over mighty kings; they dictated to potentates and princes; they bent all western Europe beneath their sway. Bernard's eloquence fired three nations with enthusiasm for the second crusade.

That Power, when it had passed from the great monastic houses, fell later, in a modified form, to the Valois Dukes. Safely housed in Dijon, or in Bruges, ruling a people sheltered, to some extent, from the appalling disasters that were transforming the fair kingdom of France into a howling wilderness, they kept a more than royal state. Gathering about their persons a great company of distinguished artists and valiant knights, they established a school of sculpture unmatched in their time; they held pageants and tournaments the most brilliant that chivalry had ever seen.

Headstrong and ambitious, they challenged the crown of France, and defied it; they dreamed dreams of a Burgundian empire extending eastward beyond the Alps and northward to the Channel.

'Tis true that these ambitions were never sated. The house of Valois had not the constructive mind of which empire is begotten: moreover, Destiny, and Louis XI., were too strong for them. But the glorious tale of ducal efforts towards that goal outshines all other sunset splendours of dying mediævalism.

When I think of what might be made of such a theme, I could tear these pages, because my best is not better.

Yet history does not end the attractions of Burgundy. It only begins them. Nature, too, has her pageant "in this best garden of the world," she will hold you here, whether you choose the delicious, poplar-fringed plains of the Saône, the "waterish" Burgundy that the French king sneers at in "Lear"—he would have gloried in the land had it been his own—or the stern and silent hills of the Jura and the Morvan; or the vine-clad slopes of sunny Côte d'Or.

But, best of all, this land and its people have a character wholly their own. You will not feel here the twilight melancholy of Celtic Brittany; the quivering, electric atmosphere of romantic Provence; nor the passionate intensity of dark Languedoc; but you will find a country well typified by its wines, its sculpture, its architecture—a solid, ample, full-bodied, full-blooded land; a people strong and vivacious, concealing, beneath a somewhat harsh and stern exterior, a cheerful heart and an abundant generosity; comfortable, courageous, eloquent, sonorous folk, that love a good dinner, and a good story to follow, that have produced a Bernard, a Bossuet, and a Lamartine.

The key to this Burgundian character, with its blend of Gallic, Latin, and German elements, the key to Burgundian history, too, is the geographical position of the country. Its great water-ways flow northward, by the Yonne, to the English Channel, and southward, by the Saône, to the Mediterranean and the traffic of the East; along its valleys run the great trading roads and railways connecting northern and southern, eastern and western Europe. With the exception of the Jura, no natural barriers exist between Burgundy and the adjoining lands. It was open at all quarters; from every point of the compass it borrowed, and it lent. Michelet's visionary thought has summed up, in a splendid phrase, the secret of Burgundy. He says, speaking of the country round Dijon: "La France n'a pas d'élément plus liant, plus capable de réconcilier le nord et le midi."

There you have it. To reconcile the bitter antagonisms of north and south, and, in a lesser degree, of east and west, was Burgundy's destiny; the geographical position that enabled her to do so was at once the source of her greatness, and the cause of her fall. While she remained independent, unity was impossible for France; and England's peace was imperilled by irresistible temptations to attack a weakened neighbour.

In writing this book, I have endeavoured, as far as possible, to preserve historical continuity. That must be my excuse for geographical flights which, else, might bewilder my readers.

My hope is that these pages may awaken, here and there, lasting interest in a land that, whether for varied scenery, sunny climate, good living, characteristic architecture, or, above all, historical associations of the first importance, can hold its own with any other ancient province of France.

Footnotes:

[1] Henry V., Act V., Scene 2; King Lear, Act I., Scene 1.


CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I

 

BENEATH THE MOUNT

 

The Hiring at St. Léger—Distant Beuvray—Fun of the Fair—A mad wolf—Legends of the Mount—Gaulish Bibracte—St. Martin at Beuvray—La Pierre de la Wivre—Legend of the Wivern—The Curé of Monthelon

1

CHAPTER II

 

THE ROMAN CITY

 

A Suffering Cow—Temple of Janus—The Aedui—Druids—Divitiacus and Dumnorix—Vercingetorix—The Founding of Augustodunum—Pierre de Couhard—Francis I. at Couhard—The Plan of Augustodunum—Temple of Janus—Restoration—Origin of the Name—Roman Gates—Porte d'Arroux—Porte St. André—Date of Construction—Porte des Marbres—Vagaries of Peasant guides

11

CHAPTER III

 

THE ROMAN CITY (Continued)

 

French Passion for Statues—Roman Temple at Autun—Ecoles Méniennes—The Capitol—The Roman Theatre—Two Ways of Lunching—Promenade des Marbres—The Amphitheatre

31

CHAPTER IV

 

THE ROMAN CITY (Continued)

 

Christian Autun—Relics of Lazarus—Translation of the Relics—Tomb of Lazarus—Exterior of Cathedral St. Lazare—The Porch—The Interior—Romanesque and Gothic—The East End—Imbecile Restorations—The Capital—St. Symphorien by Ingres—Story of St. Symphorien—Fontaine St. Lazare—Hotel Rolin—The Museums—Napoleon at the Hotel St. Louis—No charge for Moonlight

41

CHAPTER V

 

THE MOTHER ABBEY

 

Cluny and Citeaux—Cluny still the Abbey—The Birth of Cluny—Duke William's Anathema—Odon—Legend of the Crumbs—Legend of the Boar—Growth of Cluny—Birth of Hugues—St. Odilon—Hildebrand—Glory of Cluny—The Monk's Vision—The new Abbey—Consecration—Gifts—Description of New Cluny—The Narthex—The Interior—Conventual Buildings—Ambulatorium Angelorum—The Rule of Cluny—Monkish life at Cluny—Pierre Damien—Death of St. Hugues—Luxury and Decadence

59

CHAPTER VI

 

THE MOTHER ABBEY (Continued)

 

Cluny of To-day—Palace of Pope Gélase—The remaining Transept—Chapelle Bourbon—Tour du Moulin—Tour des Fromages—Gate of the Narthex—The Abbey Gate—Notable Visitors to Cluny—Palais abbatial—Musée—Hotel de Ville—Romanesque Houses—Hotel des Monnaies—Eglise St. Marcel—Hotel Dieu—Bouillon Monument—Prud'hon—Women of Burgundy—Hotel de Bourgogne—An amusing Evening—A Dream—Berzé-le-Châtel—Castle of Lourdon—St. Point—A Poet's Garden—Lamartine's Home—Tramaye

86

CHAPTER VII
MORE POPE THAN YOU

 

Decadent Cluny—Birth of St. Robert—Abbey of Molême—The Founding of Citeaux—White Robes—Black Scapular—Stephen's Vision—The Coming of St. Bernard—His Appearance—Legend of His Birth—Bernard converts his Family—Bernard a Cistercian—His Austerities—Rise of Citeaux—Daughter Abbeys—Ceremony of Foundation—Character of Bernard—Cistercian Ideals—Self-sacrifice—Simplicity—Bernard's Letter to Pierre le Vénérable—Visitors to Citeaux—Albigensian Crusade—Citeaux's Crime—A Cistercian Site—Citeaux to-day—The Chapter—My Flemish Guide

111

CHAPTER VIII
CLUNY'S DAUGHTER

 

Monkish Paray—"Une Simple Formalité"—Burgundian Manners—Clothes and the Woman—Hotel de Ville—Church of Paray—Splendid Example of Clunisian School—"Diorama-Musée"—Burgundian English—North Door—Porch—Interior—Blasphemy and kindred Matters—A very young Mule—A Snake-charmer

127

CHAPTER IX
HER THREE CROWNS

 

Chalon-Sur-Saône—River Pageants—Gontran—Abbey of St. Marcel—The Story of Bertille

136

CHAPTER X
ABELARD AND HELOISE

 

Church of St. Marcel—Story of Abélard and Héloise—Olivier de la Marche—Tournament of la Dame des Pleurs—Tournament of 1273—Modern Chalon-Sur-Saône—Eglise St. Vincent

145

CHAPTER XI
TOURNUS BY THE SAONE

 

Abbey of St. Philibert—Oldest Clunisian Porch—Interior of St. Philibert—A Change of Author—The Record of Raoul Glaber—Raoul's Visions—Famine in Burgundy—Human Vampires—In a Tournusian Café—"Au Point du Jour"—Greuze—Morning and Evening on the Saône—Mâcon

160

CHAPTER XII
THE VALLEY OF THE OUCHE

 

A Page of Dialogue—Castle of Marigny—Legend of Tebsima—Albéric—Labussière—Albéric's Dream—Aid from Citeaux—The new Church—Modern Labussière—A magnificent Mansion—Antigny-le-Chatel—A Vigneron's Wedding—Arnay-le-Duc—Study in Roofs and Colours—A charming Town—The Goats—The Poor Man—The Hotel Chrétien—Around Arnay

173

CHAPTER XIII
THE CITY OF THE DUKES

 

Unknown Dijon—The City in 1364—Philip le Hardi—His jewelled Coats—The Madness of the Period—Costume of that Day—Madness of King Charles—Philip's Patronage of Art—Chartreuse de Champmol—Puits de Moise—Portal of the Chapel—Claus Slater and his Nephew—Tombs of Philip le Hardi and Jean sans Peur—The Pleurants—Character of Jean sans Peur—Murder of Duke of Orleans—Whitewashing—Armagnacs and Burgundians Revenge

184

CHAPTER XIV
CITY OF THE DUKES (Continued)

 

Salle des Gardes—Dijon Castle—A new Post-Office—Final Struggle between Charles le Téméraire and Louis XI—Characters of both Men—Defeats and Death of Charles—Discovery of the Body—Victorious René—Louis' Joy—New Castles—Entry into Dijon—End of Burgundian Dreams—Modern Dijon—St. Bénigne—St. Michel—Notre Dame Jacquemart—Ducal Palace and Kitchen—Sketching—Palais de Justice—Plombières—Talant—Fontaine-lez-Dijon—Memories of Bernard—Tournament of Tree of Charlemagne

203

CHAPTER XV
THE DEVIL'S PIT

 

Easter Morning—Lux—The Devil's Pit—Dialogue—The Legend—Serve him right!

221

CHAPTER XVI
BEAUNE AND THE COTE D'OR

 

"Bits" in Beaune—Notre Dame—Hotel Dieu—An Earthly Paradise—Exterior—Courtyard—Chapel—Devices—Roger Van der Weyden's "Last Judgment"—Nicholas Rolin—Guigonne

230

CHAPTER XVII
SAINT MARTIN'S WELL AND THE LEGEND OF SAINT MARGUERITE

 

Bouilland—Abbey of Sainte Marguerite—The Legend—Vineyards of the Côte d'Or—Meursault—Rochepot—Story of Philippe Pot—Crusader's Return—His Marriage at Dijon—Tant L Vaut—A Talk at Auxey-le-Grand—Through Côte d'Or by Train—Cussy-la-Colonne—Bewitched—The Column—A Democratic Journey—St. Martin's Well—Legend of St. Martin's Well

237

CHAPTER XVIII
IN RURAL BURGUNDY

 

The Road to Verdun—Burgundian Folk-song, "Eho!"—Its Story—Verdun sur le Doubs—The First of March—Burgundian Folk-Lore—Teillage—Winter Scene—An old-time Burgundian Wedding—The Patois—François Fertiault Rolin—Guigonne

258

CHAPTER XIX
A LAKE IN THE JURA

 

Swiss Burgundy—Scenes in the Jura—Nantua from the Hills—Real Burgundy—A capable Woman—Church of Nantua

272

CHAPTER XX
PRINCESS MARGARET'S CHURCH

 

Bourg-en-Bresse—Signs of the South—Conveyances—Monument Historique—Cezenat—Princess Margaret's Church—Exterior—Interior—Story of Princess Margaret—-Loys von Boghen—Death of Margaret—The Meaning of her Church—The Tombs—Paradin's Chronique de Savoie—Francis I. at Bourg

276


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Mont Beuvray

Frontispiece

A Gaulish Soldier

1

On Mont Beuvray

7

The Wivern

10

The Porte St. André

11

Autun; shewing Cathedral and Mediæval Towers

17

Autun; Pierre de Couhard

19

Autun; Temple of Janus

23

Autun; Porte d'Arroux

25

Burgundian Peasant

30

Head of Augustus

31

Autun; Mediæval Towers

35

A Burgundian Welcome

38

Masks of Comedy and Tragedy

40

Roman Vine Ornament

41

St. Lazarus; from the Porch of Autun Cathedral

46

Autun; Fontaine St. Lazare

Facing 50

Autun; Tour des Ursulines

52

Cluny Abbey and Gateway, as they were

59

Cluny; Valley of the Grosne and part of the Abbey Grounds

62

Cluny; Tour Fabri

64

Clunisian Ornament

67

God reproving Adam; from a capital of the Abbey of Cluny

70

Cluny Abbey, as it was at the beginning of XIXth Century (by permission of M. Perrault-Dabot)

72

Cluny; Clocher de l'Eau Bénite

78

Cluny; ruined Gate of the Narthex

81

A Jewelled Crucifix

85

Early Clunisian Ornament

86

Cluny; Tour des Fromages

87

Cluny; Gateway of the Abbey

90

Cluny; Hotel de Ville

92

Cluny; Pascal Lamb; twelfth century

93

Cluny; Hôtel des Monnaies, twelfth century

96

Ornament

99

Cluny; a Capital from the Abbey

102

Château de Berzé

104

Château de Lourdon

106

House of Lamartine

110

St. Bernard

111

St. John: Burgundian School

119

Justice and Truth

126

Paray-le-Monial; the Church

127

Two Priests

128

Paray-le-Monial; North Door of the Church

132

Gontran and Bertille

136

Her Three Crowns

144

Abélard and Héloïse

145

Beaune; Maison Colombier

Facing 150

Chalon-Sur-Saône; Maison de Bois

159

The Saône near Tournus

160

A Street in Tournus

162

Tournus; the Abbey

170

By the Saône

172

Antigny-le-Chatel

173

Arnay-le-Duc; Corner House, sixteenth century

181

Arnay-le-Duc; Tour de la Motte Forte

Facing 182

Dijon

184

Dijon: at the Café

187

Moses; from the Puits de Moïse, Dijon

189

Philippe le Bon, Duke of Burgundy

191

A Corner of the Tomb of Philippe le Hardi

193

Pleurants from the Tomb of Philippe le Hardi

194

Dijon; Corner of the Place des Ducs

197

Pleurant

199

Ornament

200

Sword

202

Dijon: Decorated windows of the Maison Milsand

203

Dijon Museum; Woman at Prayer

204

Dijon; a Street

Facing 208

Dijon; Door of Eglise St. Michel

211

Dijon; A Font in the Eglise St. Michel

212

Sculpture; Notre Dame de Dijon

213

Dijon; Well outside the Duke's Kitchen

214

Vine Ornament

215

Dijon; a fifteenth century Window

218

Ornament

219

Arbre Charlemagne

220

The Three Huntsmen

221

Through the Forest

225

Vine Ornament

230

Beaune; Belfry of the Hospice de la Charité

231

Beaune; Porch of Notre Dame

Facing 232

Beaune; Courtyard of the Hôtel Dieu

235

Star Ornament

236

Saint Martin and Saint Margaret

237

Ruins of St. Margaret's Abbey

239

La Rochepot

241

Beaune: Porch of the Hôtel-Dieu

Facing 242

Tomb of Philippe Pot

245

Taking his Ease

247

Roman Column at Cussy

251

Valley of Nantoux

254

St. Martin Preaching

257

Burgundian Ox-cart

258

In Rural Burgundy

261

Junction of Rivers Doubs and Saône

263

Oxen ploughing

Facing 264

Burgundian Cottage

267

Château de Moux

270

Nantua and the Lake

272

Nantua from the Hill

274

Princess Margaret's Tomb

276

Bourg; in the Street

278

Eglise de Brou: Ste. Madeleine from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche

287

Eglise de Brou: Ornament from the Tomb of Marguerite d'Autriche

290

Princess Marguerite d'Autriche

292

Sketch Map of South Burgundy

293