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By motor to the Golden Gate

Chapter 27: CHAPTER XXIII WITH NOWHERE TO GO BUT OUT
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About This Book

A firsthand account of a cross‑country automobile journey from the eastern states to the Pacific, describing routes, road conditions, mechanical breakdowns, weather and the hospitality encountered en route. The narrative mixes vivid impressions of plains, deserts, mountain scenery, southwestern villages and coastal approaches with reflections on motoring manners and local character. Practical chapters offer advice on equipment, clothing, expenses, maps and photographic documentation, while episodic anecdotes cover hotels, fords, bridges and exposition sights near the journey’s end. The writer repeatedly notes the limits of fleeting observations and frames the report as one personal perspective on early long‑distance motoring.

CHAPTER XXIII
WITH NOWHERE TO GO BUT OUT

Personally I felt a sort of half-shiver. Sleep out in this land he had been telling us about! Sleep out in the wildest, loneliest country in the world, surrounded by the very Redskins about whom he had earlier in the evening been reeling pretty grewsome stories! He seemed to divine my thoughts. “The Indians are as peaceful as house cats now. Navajos never gave us much trouble except when it came to horse-stealing.”

Then he looked at me in much the way our friend the fire chief had in Rochelle, Illinois.

“You are not afraid, are you?”

“Oh, n-no! I think it’s most enchanting!”

“Are you cold?” asked E. M.

“P-perhaps,” I said weakly. “Besides if we are starting early I’d better go in and see about ordering provisions and things.” Which last remark, I think, quite saved my face—at least it was meant to.

I did, of course, want to see Acoma, that exaltedly perched city of antiquity. I did want to get at least a glimpse of the Painted Desert, but my bravery of spirit was of a very halting quality. The only thought that bolstered me up was the possibility that I was really very brave, because I was not telling anybody but myself that I was scared to death at the thought of a night of homelessness in the middle of an Indian reservation. When we started the next morning I thought Celia looked less sturdy than usual. She said, “We are not going to spend the night anywhere, are we?”

And I said with my best effort at spontaneous gladness, “No, won’t it be fun!”

Celia looked exactly as a beginner who is told to jump head foremost into the water in his first attempt to dive. E. M.’s attention was as usual entirely upon the car, and the probabilities of twistings and bumpings that the unknown roads might inflict upon his cherished engine. The question of nowhere to sleep was of little interest—still less importance. At all events we have seemingly enough provisions for ourselves and the machine to carry us to Alaska. Without doubt we can get motor supplies somewhere, but that is the one risk E. M. refuses to take and so we are starting off like a young Standard Oil agency, with forty-five gallons of gasoline, thirty-five in the tank and ten extra in cans. Also extra cans of oil. We have plenty of water for ourselves and some, too, for the car although we doubt whether alkali which ties the human stomach into a hard knot of agony at a taste would give the radiator a pain.

Our idea is to go, if we can, as far as Winslow. It seems rather funny that we, who nearly failed to stay intact over the well-worn Santa Fé trail, are branching into the unbeaten byway of the desert! We have taken our battered exhaust pipe off, and shipped it to Los Angeles, and our sensation without it is one of such freedom that we feel we can surmount all obstacles.