CHAPTER II
CAMP SHELTER
One of the foremost considerations which confronts the camper is shelter; for upon it depends, to a large extent, his health and comfort. Of course, the character of this shelter depends upon many things: individual preference, location of the camp and facilities for transportation. But the first consideration is a tight roof and protection from cold winds.
He is a poor woodsman, indeed, who in a forest cannot provide himself with protection from the weather. But every man who wishes to camp is not a woodsman, and is the man who is looking for advice. Woods frequenters sleep many nights with nothing but the blue canopy of heaven for a roof, and men have camped for weeks with only a square of canvas for a “dog tent.” But although I have tried both plans and thoroughly enjoyed myself, I must confess that I hanker for a good wall or shanty tent when the winds blow cold or the rain falls wet, and these things we must always expect.
THE WALL TENT.
If camp is located where transportation by team or water is available, when the temperature is above freezing, carry a wall tent, with a fly. It admits of better ventilation than an A tent, gives more head room for the sleeper and weighs but a trifle more. By all means do not omit the fly. Without this, in a driving rain, the water will beat through in a fine spray and dampen everything inside. Moreover, it is almost impossible to avoid hitting the canvas, sometimes, and the result is that whenever the wet cloth is touched from the inside it will start a leak unless the canvas is very thoroughly waterproofed.
In pitching a tent, select a suitable site, on top of a little knoll if possible, with the ground as level as may be. Do not under any circumstances pitch it in a hollow or gully where the water will run in. Clear off the brush, remove all bunches from the ground and carefully pitch the tent. See that all is clear before raising and that the guys hang evenly and run smoothly.
Next, dig a trench about six inches deep all around the outside, and about six inches from the canvas. Be sure not to neglect this precaution or you may awake in a puddle of water, which is not conducive to a happy frame of mind. Also remember that dampness will contract the cloth and ropes; so before you go to bed, slacken the guys a little or, if it rains in the night, you may awake with a tent pin flapping about your ears, the cloth torn or the tent blown down.
SHANTY TENT.
If there are only one or two in the party, and especially if weight is a consideration, a “shanty tent” is desirable. One which I have just completed is 6 ft. high in front and 2 ft. high in back, 7 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, with fly. No poles are needed if there are trees, for the head rope which goes across the front at the top is stretched between two trees and the tent guyed from that. The front of the tent may be lifted for an awning, when not needed to close the tent, by supporting the canvas on poles. With this tent there is sufficient length for a tall man, width enough for two to sleep comfortably and room enough to stow the “duffle,” while there is sufficient head room at the rear to afford good ventilation for a small party. I prefer this pattern of tent to all others for the reason that there is less lost space in ratio to the weight, with more convenience, than in any other style known to me.
THE DOG TENT.
Now, so far as a substitute for a comfortable tent is concerned, there is a wide range for choice. When traveling rapidly on foot, with as little impedimenta as possible, a simple square canvas, furnished with loops at two sides and large enough to shelter a man, will amply suffice. When the time arrives to make camp a pole is lashed across two trees or supported on crotched sticks, the canvas is thrown across it and pinned down by the side loops and the camp is ready. If you wish to shut up one end cut some evergreen boughs and stick them thickly in the ground at that end; this will break the wind. Build your camp fire in front of the opened end and you will be comfortable.
THE LEAN-TO.
If you desire to travel lighter still, or are caught in the woods without shelter, a few minutes’ work will suffice to build a “lean-to.” To erect this structure find two trees about four to six feet apart, or drive two poles into the ground. Lash another pole across them about five feet from the ground for a ridge pole. Cut five poles about eight feet long and lay across this, with one end resting on the ground to form the roof. Cover these poles with bark, laid shingle fashion, or with a thick layer of evergreen boughs. It is astonishing how heavy a rain a bough roof will shed if properly laid on. Now stick some poles at the two sides, with the tops lashed to the side roof poles, wattle in some brush and you have a camp that will keep you dry and with a good fire in front will be as warm as a log house, for the heat of the fire is all reflected down by the slanting roof.
If you have no time for so elaborate a construction, cut a pole, rest one end in the crotch of a tree, the other on the ground. With this for a ridge pole lean up poles and brush on each side till you have room for your shelter. If you have no axe to cut a pole, find a leaning tree or a fallen log, or even a boulder, and pile brush against it, having first thrown down a lot of boughs for a bed. This sort of a structure is capable of infinite variation.
THE LOG HUT.
Sometimes in cold weather it becomes necessary to have some shelter more substantial than a tent or even a bark shanty, especially when a prolonged stay is to be made at some central place. A log hut will provide for this, and when timber is plenty can be made with no other tools than a narrow axe. Do not be too extravagant in your idea of size. A small building is more easily kept warm than a large one and a house 8 × 10 feet will shelter four men.
Cut straight logs about 8 inches in diameter. Nine logs 11 feet long for the back; three logs 11 feet long, and sixteen logs 4 feet long for the front; eighteen logs 9 feet long for the ends.
Clear a level place free from brush and lay two 11-foot and two 9-foot logs on the ground in the form of a square, with the ends of the logs notched to hold them in place, with notches deep enough so that the next log when similarly fitted will lie snugly on top. Now proceed to pile the logs up like a cob-house, notching each log at the corners and using the long logs for the back and two of the short logs for the front to provide for a door in the center, where the ends of the logs should be held by a pole on each side. When the short logs are used up put on the long ones. The logs of the front and back should be laid with the butt and top alternated to keep them level, but the ends of the camp should have the butts all laid toward the front to form the pitch of the roof and those with the greatest taper should be selected for the ends.
For the roof, cut poles 13 feet long, lay them lengthwise and notch them into the top logs of the ends. Then cover with birch or hemlock bark. Lay poles across to prevent the high winds from displacing it and throw on evergreen boughs to break the force of the rain.
If it be desired to have a pitch roof cut short logs to fill in the gable ends and hew down the pitch to the desired angle. Fill all crevices with moss, grass or clay. A door may be made of slabs split from a cedar tree and hung on leather or rawhide hinges.
For fittings build two bunks of poles across the narrow end and fill them with fir browse. There will be room enough to stow personal belongings at the foot of the bunks and they will add to the warmth. If a camp stove is used place it at the back opposite the door and run the pipe through the roof. If no stove is used, make a fireplace of rocks laid up in clay and have a hole in the roof for the smoke to go out. If dry wood is used the smoke in the room is not offensive, for a very little fire will warm the place as much as is desirable. Do not use cedar wood for the fire, for the sparks will fly all over the place.
If desirable, many elaborations of this building can be made. If a chimney is desired build it of stones and clay and build the wall into it, so as to leave the chimney half inside and half outside.