What author, except Mr. Pennant, can flatter himself with delivering his works down to posterity in impressions so numerous as the labours of Don Saltero?
The name of Don Saltero made its first appearance in the newspaper, June 22nd, 1723; whence the following account of himself and his rarities is extracted.
“Sir, fifty years since to Chelsea great,
From Rodman, on the Irish main,
I stroll’d, and maggots in my pate,
Where, much impro’d, they still remain.
Through various employes I’ve past,
A scraper, virtuos’, projector,
Tooth drawer, trimmer, and at last
I’m now a gimcrack-whim collector.
Monsters of all sorts here are seen,
Strange things in nature as they grow so,
Some relics of the Sheha queen,
And fragments of the fam’d Bob Crusoe.
Knick-knacks, too, dangle round the wall,
Some in glass cases, some on shelf,
But what’s the rarest right of all,
Your humble servant shows himself.
On this my chiefest hope depends,
Now if you will the cause espouse,
In journals pray direct your friends
To my Museum Coffee-House:
And, in requital for the timely favour,
I’ll gratis bleed, draw teeth, and be your shaver.
Nay, that your pate may with my noddle tarry,
And you shine bright as I do—marry, shall ye
Freely consult your Revelation Molly.
Nor shall one jealous thought create a huff,
For she has taught me manners long enough.”Chelsea Knackatory.
DON SALTERO.
Dr. Franklin, in his Life, mentions coming to Chelsea to see Don Saltero’s collection:—“We one day (says he) made a party to go by water to Chelsea, in order to see the College, and Don Saltero’s curiosities. On our return, at the request of the company, I undressed myself, and leaped into the river. I swam from near Chelsea the whole way to Blackfriars Bridge, exhibiting, during my course, a variety of feats of activity and address, both upon the surface of the water as well as under it. The sight occasioned much astonishment and pleasure to those to whom it was new. In my youth I took great delight in this exercise.”
This noted coffee-house was for many years, in the present century, conducted in a most respectable manner. There was a subscription room, where gentlemen met and conversed, and which was frequently visited by men of literature and science, many of whom are still living, but of late years it had lost the celebrity of former days. It was rebuilt in 1867, is now a capital private residence.
Henry Redhead Yorke, Esq.—This accomplished scholar died at his residence, at No. 19, Cheyne Walk, in 1813, in the 41st year of his age. He was a great classical scholar. In his youth as he himself expressed it, he was “madly in love with ideal liberty.” He became an officer in the French army, and a member of the National Convention, and personally acquainted with all the leading characters of the French Revolution. He was denounced by Robespierre; and but for a friendly hint from the celebrated Condorcet, must have been guillotined, had he been one hour longer in making his escape.
In the month of March, 1798, he was liberated from Dorchester Castle, after an imprisonment of four years, for a seditious libel. He had paid a fine of £200, and entered into securities for £2,000.
Some years previous to his death his political ideas became moderated, and he manifested a strong sense of the value of the British constitution. He had been called to the bar; a profession for which he was highly qualified, and in which there was every reason to hope he would have risen to high eminence, had his life been prolonged. Indeed, the zeal with which he devoted himself to his various professional pursuits, hastened, if it did not bring on, the disorder which put a period to his existence at the comparative early age of forty-one years. As a classical scholar, and nervous elegant writer, he has left few equals. His letters, under the signature of “Galgacus,” have scarcely been surpassed since the days of Junius. In private life, Mr. Yorke was distinguished for benevolence and liberality of sentiment, openness of character, and his company was courted by men of all parties.
Francis Chalmer, Esq., (son of Edmund Chalmer, Esq.,) resided in Cheyne Row for a great many years. He was a magistrate for the county, and highly esteemed in the parish. As a gentleman he was affable and courteous, and kind to the poor. He died at his house in Cheyne Row, in July, 1859, and was interred in the Brompton Cemetery.
Leigh Hunt, Esq., the well-known author of many interesting works, and who was the associate of the most distinguished political as well as literary men of the earlier part of the present century, occupied a house in Upper Cheyne Row for a considerable time.
Miss Frances Elizabeth Eggleton, and Miss Christian Mary Eggleton, lived in Cheyne Walk. They were the daughters of Mr. David Eggleton, of Church Street, a very old Chelsea family. The former lady died in 1861, and the latter in 1867. Miss Frances Eggleton bequeathed a sum of money, to be given at her sister’s death to the Rector and Churchwardens, in trust, for them to give, on Christmas Eve, “a shoulder of mutton of not less than seven pounds in weight, and not exceeding eight pounds in weight, and four pounds of bread, to each of twenty poor persons of Chelsea, being married persons and having a family.” An extract from her will, respecting this gift, will be inserted amongst the other parochial legacies.
Charles Rawlings, Esq., who resided in Cheyne Walk for many years, was much respected in the parish, and was of a most benevolent disposition. His deed of gift in 1862, and the legacies in 1864, will be found in the list of Chelsea Charities.
Dr. Bayford, a distinguished proctor, and father of the present Dr. Bayford, resided with his family in a spacious house, within a few doors of Manor Street. His sons, in their younger days, were particularly attached to aquatic exercises.
Nathaniel Handford, Esq., an old and respected parishioner, resided also in Cheyne Walk, where he died. Mrs. Sarah Handford, his relict, who did not very long survive him, left several small legacies, in 1865, to various charitable societies in the parish.
W. Carpenter, Esq., well-known in literary circles, and who has long been connected with the press, resided likewise within the last few years in Cheyne Walk.
R. E. N. Lee, Esq., occupied the house at the corner of Manor Street, (now in possession of Dr. Sannemann,) for a considerable period. He was Steward of the Manor for eighteen years. He died in 1833, and in St. Luke’s Church there is a tablet to his memory. No family was more respected in Chelsea.
Mr. J. Fraine, a solicitor, resided at No. 13, in Cheyne Walk, and died in 1785, aged 70. The history of this gentleman and his family was marked by some very uncommon circumstances. He was himself afflicted with a continual gnawing pain in his left arm, which he carried on a board in a sling; and by pinching his jaws and throat, and beating his right cheek through the violence of the pain, he had marked them very much. He compared the sensation to a worm in the marrow of the upper bone of his arm, and used to keep a boy to beat it with a stick whenever the pain returned, and to tap on the back of his head with a piece of wood covered with cloth. Mr. Fraine’s death was occasioned by the fall on his right thigh of a leaden weight, with which he was exercising as a remedy for his complaint; the injury brought on a speedy mortification. This extraordinary case was fully described in a letter, subsequently written by Dr. Monsey. The calamities of this unhappy gentleman extended also to his son and daughter, both of whom fell by their own hands.
Mr. Fraine’s only son. King Samuel, an amiable, accomplished young man, who received his education at Christ Church, Cambridge, put an end to his existence at his chambers in the Temple, in 1799, aged 22 years, for which no reason can be assigned but disappointment in love.
Miss Fraine, whose duteous attention to her tortured and frequently impatient father was most exemplary, after the dreadful catastrophe of her brother’s suicide, not wholly unaccountable from hereditary irregularities of system, seemed to have a dread (not aversion) of marriage. The tendency of her social feelings, strictly regulated and controlled by the reserve of modesty and the dignity of virtue, almost irresistibly inclined her best affections towards wedlock; whilst her extremely sensitive forethought shunned the general result of engagements ennobling to mankind in general, but appalling in many lights to herself.
During this state of mind, repeatedly avowing her contempt for birds, cats, and dogs, she expressed great attachment for infant children. Miss Fraine, in 1780, frequently expressed to a very near neighbour her ardent wish that a particular child were placed under her own sole and immediate management. “I cannot safely marry,” she would often observe, “but I shall undertake the charge of an infant’s education with delight.”
After making many serious colloquial attempts to reason against such an intention, the Rev. Weeden Butler sent some sportive lines to the highly gifted and unfortunate lady. It succeeded so far as to repress any further application by the lady, but her feelings remained the same. The following elegant jeu-d’esprit was written with similar effect. She appears to have possessed great sensibility of feeling without adequate reflection.
SALE OF A DAUGHTER,
In fairy guise and playful mood,
Euphrania, young and fair, and good,
Vows, if her friends a price would set
Upon their daughter Harriet,
Herself the gift of Heaven would buy,
And cherish it beneath her eye.
Does, then, Euphrania mean to say,
(If we would cast our young away,
Like ostriches) she’d prove a mother,
And rear the nestling of another?Ye powers, it is a strange temptation!
Let us not treat it with flirtation.
Come, think upon it well, dear wife;
We love our offspring as our life.
Euphrania’s offer is adoption:
Take it, or leave it, is our option.Heigho! I read your tearful eye,
“For the babe’s good we must comply.”
’Tis said, ’tis done. Now, in a trice,
Let us determine well the price;
And, shunning all superfluous joke,
Settle the worth of infant folk.
The bargain is as clear as water;
Full many a one has sold a daughter.
The consent of the parents having thus been obtained, the price to be given for the infant daughter is the next consideration. The following is a summary of the supposed value of the child:—
Imprimis. For a hazel eye, |
£52 |
10 |
0 |
Item, for pranks and wanton wiles, |
80 |
0 |
0 |
Item, for filial obedience, |
100 |
0 |
0 |
Then, item, for her race and name, |
200 |
0 |
0 |
Item, for every hope and fear |
67 |
10 |
0 |
|
£500 |
0 |
0 |
For such a sale, to us are due
A Bond, and final Judgment too;
From you the former may be given,
The latter must be left to . . . Heaven.
Advised, pressed, solicited, nay, perhaps, commanded by an anxious father, this lady at last married. Soon afterwards she grew melancholy and desponding, and fell by her own hand, at her residence at Richmond, in the year 1785. She married Captain Fortescue.
Dr. Dominiceti’s Baths.—The dwelling house afterwards occupied by the Rev. Weeden Butler, a few doors from Flood Street, Cheyne Walk, was once inhabited by one Dominiceti, an Italian physician, of very considerable notoriety and talents. At this house he established medicinal baths for the cure of all diseases; and it was fitted up with pipes, &c., for the accommodation of numerous patients, who might choose to reside with him while they were under his care. In 1765 it is described as a large, pleasant, and convenient house, which contains four spacious and lofty parlours, two dining rooms, and thirteen bed chambers. On the east side of the garden, and directly communicating with the house, was erected an elegant brick and wooden building, 100-ft. long, and 16-ft. wide, in which were the baths and fumigatory stoves, etc. It appears, from his own account, that he expended about £37,000 altogether in erecting, contriving, and completing his house, and baths in Cheyne Walk.
Among his visitors and patients, at Chelsea, was his Royal Highness Edward Duke of York, who entrusted the preservation of his life to Dominiceti’s sole direction for above a month; and that in direct opposition to the advice of the Physicians and Surgeons of the Royal household. Sir John Fielding, having experienced the good effects, as he considered, of these baths, wrote a “Vindication of Dr. Dominiceti’s Practice of removing various afflicting diseases by medicated baths, stoves, fumigations, and frictions, founded on facts.”
Dominiceti resided for several years in Chelsea. He became bankrupt in the parish in 1782, and at length disappeared, overwhelmed with debt.
We will now notice one of the most distinguished scholars and clergymen of the early part of the present century, the Rev. Weeden Butler, who resided in the above-mentioned house for a great many years, and also one of his sons, etc., until a comparatively recent period, and which cannot fail to be highly interesting to a large number of readers.
The Rev. Weeden Butler was born at Margate, in 1742. When aged fourteen, he lost both his parents; and with his own free will was articled as clerk to Mr. Rosewell, a respectable solicitor, in Angel Court, Throgmorton Street, London. At the expiration of his term, he was offered by his considerate late master and constant friend till death, a share in the business; but he had determined to renounce for ever the profession of the law, and resolved, by intense study and application, to improve his superior intellectual powers, and ardently to prepare himself for holy orders. About this time, he frequented all the churches and chapels within and around the vast metropolis, as an enquirer after truth. The result of his search fixed his choice, and he devoted his time thenceforth, as a firm member of the Establishment, upon the fullest conviction of its excellence. The course of his classical and theological reading was directed by that splendidly and variously gifted, but most unhappy character, Dr. William Dodd, to whom, for a salary of small extent, he acted as an assiduous amanuensis, till his patron’s ignominious death, in 1777.
Dr. Dodd’s “Commentary on the Holy Bible,” was partly compiled, and wholly written out for the press, by the then unknown Rev. Weeden Butler, who also greatly assisted in editing the four last volumes of “The Christian’s Magazine,” and corrected the proof sheets of the poem, in blank vase, “Thoughts in Prison,” of which Dr. Dodd’s own MS. was in the possession of Mr. Butler’s eldest son in 1829–30. In this last singularly affecting composition occur lines indicative of the worth of the person eulogized, and of the author’s gratitude:—
“But I am lost! a criminal adjudg’d!
A guilty miscreant! can’st thou think, my friend!
Oh! Butler ’midst a million faithful found;
Oh! can’st thou think, who know’st, who long hast known,
My inmost soul; oh! can’st thou think, that life,” &c.
Dr. Dodd resigned his office of Morning Preacher, in Charlotte Street Chapel, Pimlico, in February, 1776, and at his strong recommendation, Dr. Courtney nominated the deserving Reader, Mr. Butler, who was licensed Morning Preacher accordingly; and afterwards by purchase he became proprietor of the chapel, officiating therein up to the year 1814. When the subject of the present article retired from Chelsea, to Gayton; where he piously discharged the duties of curate to his second son, till his increasing infirmities compelled him to resign this his last charge, and he finally withdrew to Greenhill, in the neighbourhood of Harrow, where he died.
He was master of the school in Cheyne Walk for forty years; where many persons of considerable rank had been so thoroughly grounded in morality and general learning as to become bright ornaments to their country. Amongst other scholars, the Rev. Weeden Butler had the gratification of seeing his two sons treading assiduously in his own paths. The Rev. G. Butler, D.D., in 1805, was chosen Head Master of Harrow School, and continued as such, with great reputation, for many years.
The elder Mr. Butler was one of the earliest institutors of the “Society for the Discharge and Relief of Persons imprisoned for small debts,” and most materially assisted James Neild, Esq., his next door neighbour, in firmly establishing that excellent Institution. The friendship, indeed, which existed between these two benevolent characters, cannot be better exemplified and attested than by the following few extracts from a letter written by Mr. Neild, dated Chelsea, January 1, 1808.
“When I look back to the distant period of our lives, and observe, that, of the first Committee of the Society, you, Rev. Sir, and myself, remain the only survivors, I cannot but feel the most powerful, and, at the same time, the most humble gratitude to the Great Disposer of all human events, for having suffered me to live and witness the happy result of our early and well-meant endeavours. * * * * With growing and well-merited esteem, Sir, I witnessed your successful exertions in behalf of the Society, at its earliest institution. Often have I felt the influence acknowledged by all who have heard the eloquent and impressive discourses which you have delivered from the pulpit, in recommendation of the objects embraced by this Charity, and never can the gratifying recollection be effaced which beamed from every countenance around you, when you mentioned the receipt of £100 from an eminent advocate for suffering humanity.” Mr. Neild concludes by referring to the promotion of Mr. Butler’s son (Dr. Butler), which he considers to be the reward of his virtues; of those early advances which his father’s tuition enabled him to make in literature, and to the purity of his Christian principles.
In 1787 he instituted the Chelsea Sunday Schools, with the sanction of the Rev. W. B. Cadogan. His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent had a great regard for Mr. Butler, and appointed him one of his domestic chaplains. Hardly one charitable Society in London existed, to which his popular oratory did not essentially contribute credit and profit. He died in a good old age, and his remains were placed in the family vault at Chelsea. The Rev. Weeden Butler, his eldest son, occupied the same house for many years afterwards, as also the son of the latter, Thomas Butler, Esq., who was much esteemed by a numerous circle of friends while he resided in Cheyne Walk. The whole of this family were remarkable for their classical attainments and love of literature. The Rev. T. Helmore, Precentor, St. Mark’s College, has since resided in Mr. Butler’s house.
A very fine portrait of Dr. Dodd, painted by Gainsborough, and a large quarto volume of the doctor’s unedited poems, in MS., bound, including a tragedy, called “The Syracusans,” and a comedy, called “Sir Roger de Coverly,” were left by Mr. Butler, to his legatees. The portrait is the only likeness extant The Rev. Philip Dodd, and the Rev. Weeden Butler (eldest son of Mr. Butler), possessed all the Doctor’s unprinted sermons.
James Neild, Esq., who resided at No. 4, Cheyne Walk, was born in 1744, at Knutsford, in Cheshire, in the neighbourhood of which his family had some good estates. He came to London, and was placed with Mr. Hemming, the King’s goldsmith, but after a short time, he removed to a jeweller’s. In 1770 he settled in St. James’s Street, and continued there till the year 1792, when finding his health declining, and having recently lost his wife, he retired from business to Chelsea, with an ample fortune.
The attention of Mr. Neild, very early in life, was drawn to the distressed state of persons imprisoned for debt; the endeavour to alleviate which soon became his favorite pursuit, and one which he followed with intense application.
In 1773, having previously visited most of the prisons in England, and many on the continent, he was, together with his benevolent friends, Dr. John C. Lettson, and the Rev. Weeden Butler, chiefly instrumental in instituting the Society for the Relief and Discharge of Persons imprisoned for small debts. In 1812 he published “The State of the Prisons,” in a quarto volume, a work teeming with valuable information. Mr. Neild died in 1814, and was buried in Battersea Church. He married a daughter of John Camden, Esq., of that parish.
John Camden Neild, Esq., was a magistrate for the county, and the son of the preceding. He resided in his late father’s house in Cheyne Walk, and bequeathed half a million of money to Queen Victoria. He died in 1852.
John Goss, Esq., the present organist of St. Paul’s Cathedral, lived at No. 3, Cheyne Walk. He was appointed Organist of St. Luke’s New Church, when that sacred edifice was completed. His proficiency, even at that early period of his musical life, excited general admiration, and large portions of the congregation frequently waited in the Church, at the close of Divine Service, to listen to his concluding performances.
There are several highly respectable families, who have for many years resided in Cheyne Walk, of whom it would have been only an act of justice to notice, but the strict rules of propriety prevent my discharging an otherwise pleasing duty, which, in some instances especially, is much to be regretted, as they take a deep interest in the promotion of whatever tends to enhance the welfare of the parish.
DOGGETT’S COAT AND BADGE.
Mr. Thomas Doggett, a native of Ireland, was an actor, and made his first appearance in Dublin; but his efforts not meeting with sufficient encouragement he removed to London, where he performed with great reputation, and by his talents, industry, and economy, acquired a competent fortune, and quitted the stage some years before he died. He was also a patentee and manager of the theatre with Wilks, Booth, and Cibber; the latter of whom gives Doggett the following character:—“He was the most original and the strictest observer of nature of all his cotemporaries. He borrowed from none of them; his manner was his own, he was a pattern to others, whose greatest merit was that they had sometimes tolerably imitated him. In dressing a character to the greatest exactness, he was remarkably skilful; the least article of whatsoever habit he wore seemed in some measure to speak the different humour he presented, a necessary care in a comedian, in which many have been too remiss or ignorant. His greatest success was in characters of lower life, which he improved from the delight he took in his observations of that kind in the real world. In songs, and particular dances too of humour, he had no competitor. Congreve was a great admirer of him, and found his account in the characters he expressly wrote for him. In those of Fondlewife in his Old Bachelor, and Ben in Love for Love, no author and actor could be more obliged to their mutual masterly performances. He was very acceptable to several persons of high rank and taste, though he seldom cared to be the comedian, but among his more intimate acquaintances.
He is highly spoken of in the Spectator. He wrote one play, called “The Country Wake,” a comedy, acted with great applause; and out of this play were made two farces, “Hob, or the Country Wake,” and “Hob’s Wedding.” The first has been acted often with great success, and likewise several songs have been added to it in imitation of the Beggar’s Opera, since which it has been acted under the title of Flora.
In his political principles he was, in the words of Sir Richard Steele, “a Whig up to head and ears;” and he took every occasion of demonstrating his loyalty to the house of Hanover. One instance, among others, is well known; which is, that in the year after King George I. came to the throne, in 1715, Doggett gave a waterman’s orange-coloured coat and silver badge to be rowed for; on the latter is represented the Hanoverian horse.
This contest takes place on the 1st day of August, being the anniversary of that King’s accession to the throne, between six young watermen, who had just completed their apprenticeship; the claimants starting off on a signal being given at that time of the tide when the current is strongest against them, and rowing from the Old Swan, near London Bridge, to the White Swan, at Chelsea. This tavern adjoined the Apothecaries’ Botanical Garden, on the east, and enjoyed a great share of public favour for many years; but in the year 1780, it was converted into a Brewhouse. Since this period, the place of landing the victor has been at a house bearing the same sign, near to Cheyne Walk. I have been favoured with the following chorus, said to be written by a waterman:—
“Let your oars, like lightning flog it,
Up the Thames as swiftly jog it,
An’ you’d win the prize of Doggett,
The glory of the river!
Bendin’, bowin’, strainin’, rowin’,
Perhaps the wind in fury blowin’,
Or the tide agin you flowin’,
The coat and badge for ever!”
Mr. Doggett, at his death, left a sum of money, the interest of which was to pay for the same for ever.
The “Yorkshire Grey” public house stood at the west corner of Old Manor Street, opposite the river. It was a very old tavern, mostly frequented of late years by the watermen who plied at the stairs opposite to it. It has recently been pulled down, and two good private dwelling houses now occupy the site.
In the year 1824, a new road was opened, connecting Old and New Manor Street, forming a direct communication from Cheyne Walk to the King’s Road, and St. Luke’s Church. Prior to that period a large garden crossed the street, with a wall and iron railing, so that the two streets were entirely detached.
With respect to the embankment of the shores of our parish, this was certainly the work of ages, much posterior to the Norman Conquest, nor was it even completed before the latter end of the seventeenth century, for, from the manorial records, we find them to have been frequently imperfect, whilst the keeping them in repair and good order, was a subject of vexatious dispute between the Lord of this Manor and his tenants; and hence sometimes by the parish and the turnpike trust; sometimes by those persons who inhabited houses immediately in front of the River, to the extent of their own frontages; and sometimes by the Lords of the Manor themselves, to the extent of their frontages. This uncertainty respecting the right of repair was attended with many evils, the walls being often out of order, and in a dangerous state. In December, 1822, upon the trial of an indictment on the prosecution of the Kensington turnpike trust, against the Lords of the Manor, in the Court of King’s Bench, the Chief Justice ruled at nisi prius, that the onus rested on the latter, unless and until they could show on whom by right of tenure, or otherwise, the burthen lay.
Having now arrived at the conclusion of Book I., in which are described all that is worthy of special notice in a great portion of the western extremity of the parish, I shall commence Book II., with a description of that beautiful architectural structure, St. Luke’s Church.
BOOK II.
Consecration and other interesting particulars of St. Luke’s Church and Burial Ground—Its Monuments, &c.—Rectors, Curates, and Lecturers—Parochial National Schools, &c.—The Workhouse and the Old Burial Ground—The Origin and Condition of the King’s Road in the “Olden Times:”—Its state at the commencement of this Century, together with some notices of the New Buildings, and its thriving Trade at the present Time—Markham Square Congregational Church—Savings’ Bank—Chelsea College—Charles II. and Nell Gwynne—The Royal Military Asylum—Old Ranelagh—The Original Bunhouse—The whole interspersed with many other interesting notices of Distinguished Residents, &c.
St. Luke’s Church and the Burial Ground.
It will be necessary before we give a description of this beautiful edifice to state some particulars respecting the Burial Ground, or, more properly speaking, the Cemetery, in the centre of which the Church is erected. The Act of Parliament for providing this additional Burial Ground for the parish was passed in 1810, and certain Trustees therein named were appointed to carry it into effect. They accordingly purchased of Earl Cadogan, the Lord of the Manor, a piece of ground, in the present central situation, containing rather more than four acres, and enclosed it with a substantial wall and strong iron railing.
As I was present at the consecration of this Burial Ground, and also of the Church, a brief account of which I published at the time, the following particulars I can fully authenticate. With respect to many circumstances which I shall mention, in connexion with the Church, they may be relied upon as being accurately stated from my own personal observation.
In November, 1812, the enclosure of the spacious new Burial Ground having been in every respect completed, with a small Chapel erected close to the entrance on the north side, designed exclusively for reading the Funeral Service, on Saturday, the 21st of the above month, the same were consecrated by the Bishop of London, accompanied by his Chaplains, the Chancellor and Registrar of the Diocese, the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, the Churchwardens, Trustees, and a large number of the inhabitants.
The preliminary prayers were offered at the Old Church, and the Bishop having declared his assent to the petition presented to him for consecrating the new ground, the procession proceeded from the Church. On their arrival there was an immense assemblage to witness the consecration. The Bishop then perambulated the ground, reading such portions of the Service as is specially appointed, and afterwards completed the consecration in the Chapel.
In the year 1819, an Act of Parliament, 59 Geo. III., cap. 35, May 19, was obtained for building a new Church, and the Rector and Churchwardens, and 59 other inhabitants of the parish, were appointed to carry the same into effect. The central portion of the new Burial Ground was appropriated for this purpose, and on the 12th of October, 1820, the first stone of the new Church was laid by the Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, as proxy for his brother, the Duke of Wellington, who was prevented from performing the ceremony by receiving “the King’s commands to attend him on public business that day at his palace in Pall Mall.” Many of the vast assemblage of spectators having waited a long time for His Grace’s arrival felt somewhat disappointed, and some of them attributed his absence to the political excitement which prevailed just at that period, but this was far from being the general opinion.
A procession was at last formed in the following order:—His Royal Highness the Duke of York’s Band; the Beadles of the Parish; Mr. James Savage, the architect; the Builder, with a silver trowel on a crimson velvet cushion; the Treasurer, with a metal box and sundry coins, and a brass plate, on a velvet cushion. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, supported by the Churchwardens; the Curates and Lecturer of the Parish, and the Trustees appointed under the Act of Parliament for building the Church.
The service used on similar occasions having been read by the Rector, the box with the coins, and the brass-plate were deposited by the Rector upon the stone prepared for the purpose, which was then lowered down and secured with the customary formalities. The inscription on the stone was as follows:—“This stone was laid on the 12th day of October, A.D., 1820, by Field Marshal His Grace the Duke of Wellington, the Hon. and Rev. Gerald Valerian Wellesley, Rector; Richard Rattenbury and Richard Mann, Churchwardens.” The day was remarkably fine, and the spectacle altogether produced a very imposing effect, notwithstanding the disappointment experienced by the absence of the Duke of Wellington. A spacious amphitheatre was erected for the accommodation of ladies, and the ceremony concluded with a beam of satisfaction on the countenances of nearly all present.
The Church is built of Bath stone, in the Gothic style of the 14th century, and is approached by a sweep carriage way and flagged footpath. The west front has an arcade, extending the whole breadth of the frontage. From the centre of this arcade rises a lofty tower, the upper part panelled and crowned with an open battlement. It is strengthened at the four corners by octagonal buttresses, which are finished by open-worked pinnacles, of a form which gives the exterior of the edifice a very picturesque appearance, and when seen at a distance is very attractive. The height from the ground to the top of the pinnacle is 142 feet, and the view from the tower on which these pinnacles rise, affords a very fine view of the parish and its surrounding scenery. From the tower, the body of the building is seen to extend, embraced and supported by its flying buttresses, which stretch their airy fronts from between the Clerestery windows to the outer wall of the side aisles, when they are continued solidly down to the ground. The walls of the side aisles and Clerestery are both finished with perforated parapets of elegant forms.
At the eastern end, the principal feature is the altar window, 32 ft. high and 16 ft. wide, divided by mullions into seven bays in width, and four stories in height, exclusive of the pointed arched head, which has a beautiful wheel centre. This end has also two octagonal turrets, the upper stories of which are ornamented with open-worked panels and crocketted domes. There are also two porches communicating with lobbies and staircase, to afford the most ample entrance and exit. In the middle part, and below the great window, the Vestry Room is projected.
On the flanks the buttresses project about six feet, and their extremities are connected by a dwarf wall, which defends an open area, giving light and air to the crypt under the Church. The unbroken line of this wall makes a solid base for the whole building, which gets lighter and lighter as it ascends to the top, where numerous feathery pinnacles impart softness and richness to the extremity that meets the sky.
From the great western arcade you enter by three sets of folding doors to the vestibule, at the sides of which are placed the principal staircases to the galleries. The principal or middle aisle of the Church is entered from the centre of the entrance lobby by lofty folding doors, glazed with plate glass, and as there is no western gallery to project before these doors you have at once the full effect of the interior. In this Church, unlike most others, the western gallery is obtained by a recess over the vestibule, and is principally occupied by a splendid organ by Nicholls, comprising the great organ, choir organ, and swell organ, containing thirty-three stops and 1876 pipes. The organ is considered one of the finest and most powerful in London. The bellows, when charged, contains 70 cubic feet of wind. [128] The King’s Arms, placed in front of the organ, is executed in a solid piece of mahogany, and is a masterly production.
The inside of the Church is 130 feet long, and 61 feet wide, divided into a nave and two side aisles, separated by clustered columns and pointed arches. The small column in front of the cluster continues up to the vaulted ceiling, and there branches out into numerous ribs, which spread their airy lines in the most graceful manner over the ceiling, tied together at their numerous intersections by carved pendant bosses, the principal light being from the clerestery windows gives an aerial effect to the ceiling, which hardly appears to belong to “mid earth,” although actually built of solid stone, whose power of gravitation appears here to be suspended by the magic of art, of which this is said to be the only instance of the kind attempted for the last 300 years. From the pavement to the crown of the vault is 60 ft., clear height, a greater height than is to be found in any edifice in London, excepting St. Paul’s Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. The lofty position of the windows diffuses a clear and calm light throughout. The church was for some years lighted by oil-lamps in the three really magnificent chandeliers, but for a long time gas has been very judiciously substituted.
A circumstance occurred in reference to these massive and splendid central chandeliers, at nearly the conclusion of one of the Sunday Evening Services, which occasioned great excitement amongst the congregation, and it was feared at the time would be attended with loss of life, but fortunately only one elderly person was seriously injured. These chandeliers were obliged to be lowered by means of a windlass, and men from the contractor for lighting the church, by oil-lamps, had to attend and lower them both before and after Divine Service, in the first instance for the purpose of lighting, and secondly to extinguish the lights. It was the practice of these men, who came from London, and were anxious to return home as soon as possible, to lower the weighty chandeliers on a certain signal being given to them at the belfry door, as soon as the organist commenced “playing the congregation out,” but on this occasion it was a sermon in aid of a charity, and the organ was only played previous to the singing of a hymn while the collection was being made. This caused the mistake. Some of the congregation in the galleries, perceiving that one of the chandeliers was unsteady and slowly descending, rushed forward to make their exit, which created great confusion and alarm, the result being the accident previously mentioned. The Hon. and Rev. Dr. Wellesley, rector, being present, although not officiating, immediately explained the circumstances, and soon afterwards the alarm was allayed and the service concluded. The lighting of these oil-lamps was attended with great expense and much labour. A considerable saving is now effected by the introduction of gas, labour on the Sunday is lessened, and the dirt occasioned by the trimming of the lamps altogether obviated.
The galleries, south and north, are well constructed. There is breadth of surface and simplicity of outline throughout. From some positions the columns of the nave, which impart such a grandeur to the entire interior, impedes the view of the preacher, even from the northern gallery, but this is unavoidable in Gothic architecture.
At the eastern end, the great window, 32 ft. high, and 16 ft. wide, is a most conspicuous feature. The bottom of the window, being 22 ft. from the pavement, affords ample space for the altar-piece, which is designed in the manner of a Gothic shrine or screen.
The altar, or communion, is ascended by three steps, and is enclosed by a Gothic railing. The chairs and stools are designed in character, and are good specimens of wood carving; they were executed by Mr. Relph, from the designs of the architect.
The altar-piece is “The Entombing of Christ,” by Northcote. It had been previously exhibited at the British Institution, Pall Mall.
For some years after the church was completed the large eastern window was glazed simply with plain glass, as will be seen from the following Vestry Minute, dated April 24, 1823:—“It is the opinion of this Vestry that it would be expedient to have a stained-glass window at the east end, &c., and that the money necessary for the same be attempted to be raised by voluntary subscriptions.” This effort proved unsuccessful, and on the 29th of August, in the same year, Thomas Bryan, Esq., of. Cadogan Place, transmitted the following letter to a subsequent Vestry meeting: “Since I had the honour of being appointed treasurer for the purpose of receiving voluntary contributions for the purchase of a stained-glass window, I beg to announce that I have not received any money but what has been duly returned to the parties.” This great defect has since been remedied, and a very handsome and appropriate stained-glass window, representing the apostles, &c., now adds materially to the beautiful appearance of the interior of the church.