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Church Needlework: A manual of practical instruction

Chapter 26: Magazines.
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About This Book

A practical manual guides church embroiderers through selection of materials, mounting frames, and design tracing, then explains specific techniques such as gold-work, silk embroidery, outline, appliqué, and figure-work. It addresses liturgical colour schemes and construction of frontals, copes, mitres, Eucharistic vestments including chalice-veils and burses, and banners, and gives step-by-step instruction on principal stitches for linen work, altar linen, albs, and surplices. The text blends technical how-to guidance with advice on studying historical examples, coordinating colour and materials, and organizing guild or group efforts, finishing with appendices and an index for practical reference.

* Alford, Lady, Needlework as Art.

* Barber, Mary, Some Drawings of Ancient Embroidery.

* Bock, Dr., Geschichte der Liturgischen Gewänder.

Braun, Die Priestlichen Gewänder, &c.

Clausse, G., Les Monuments du Christianisme, &c.

Chambers, Divine Worship in England in Thirteenth Century, &c.

Crane, Walter, Line and Form (and others).

* Davenport, English Embroidered Bookbindings.

Day, Lewis, Several Handbooks on Design.

* Day, Lewis, and Mary Buckle, Art in Needlework.

* Dolby, Anastasia, Church Embroidery.

Dolby, Anastasia, Church Vestments.

* Farcy, Louis de, La Broderie du XIIIᵉ Siècle, &c.

Jameson, Mrs., Sacred and Legendary Art.

Jones, Owen, Grammar of Ornament.

Jones, Owen, Principles, an Attempt to Define, &c.

* Kendrick, A. F., English Embroidery.

* Lefébure, E., Embroidery and Lace.

Legg, J. Wickham, Notes on the History of Liturgical Colours.

Marriott, Vestiarium Christianum.

* Pugin, Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament.

* Rock, Dr. Daniel, Textiles, Introduction to.

Rock, Dr. Daniel, Church of our Fathers.

Semper, Der Stil.

* Townsend, W. G. P., Embroidery: or the Craft of the Needle.

Ward, Historic Ornament.

* Wilton, Countess of, The Art of Needlework.

Magazines.

* The Art Workers’ Quarterly.

* Burlington.

* Home Art Work.

* Studio.

Transactions of St. Paul’s Ecclesiological Society. Vols. I. and II. especially.


INDEX

  • Albe, an ancient, 86
  • apparels of, 86
  • how to make, 86
  • insertion on old, 87
  • modern, 87-88
  • origin of, 85
  • symbolism of, 53
  • Almsbags, 67
  • Altar, keynote of decoration, 39-40
  • linen required for, 79
  • Altar-cloth band, 79-80
  • fair linen, 79
  • Altar-frontal, 39
  • early English, 40
  • to make up, 40-47
  • Amice, apparel of, 88
  • of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 88
  • origin of, 88
  • symbolism of, 53
  • Apparels, 57
  • of albe, 86
  • of amice, 88
  • of dalmatic, 24, 57
  • Appliqué, 21
  • examples of, 22-24
  • method of cutting, 26
  • to prepare, 25
  • uses of, 25
  • Apron necessary, 16
  • Back-stitching, 76
  • Banners, 65
  • appliqué suitable for, 25
  • design for, 64
  • Basket-stitch, 12
  • Book-covers, 67
  • Book-markers, 68
  • Books, care of, 84
  • Brocade, 3
  • Burse, 58, 62
  • to make, 58, 61
  • Buttonhole-filling, 75
  • Buttonhole-stitch, 74
  • Canvas-stitch, 77
  • Chain-stitch, 27
  • Chalice-veil (linen), 83
  • (silk), 58
  • design for, 83
  • specimen of, 63
  • Chasuble, early English examples, 55
  • from Harleian MSS., 55
  • how to make, 56
  • of St. Ignatius of Loyola, 54
  • of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 58
  • origin of, 55
  • ornament of, ‘flower,’ 56, 59
  • symbolism of, 53
  • Cherub, early English, 45
  • Cingulum or girdle, 53, 85
  • Clavi, 57
  • Cloth, linen and woollen, 3
  • of gold, 3, 9
  • Colours, 2
  • isolation of, 21
  • liturgical, 39
  • modification of, 10
  • washing, 16
  • Cope, measurements of, &c., 49
  • the, 49
  • to make up, 50
  • Coptic embroidery, 28
  • Corporals, case or burse, 58-62
  • pair of, 83
  • Couching (gold), 9
  • (silk), 15
  • compared with laid-work, 15, 19
  • Counter-change, 26
  • Credence cloth, 85
  • Crewel-stitch, 20
  • Cross-stitch, 76-77
  • like Lacis, 77
  • Curtains, principles to be observed in hanging, 40
  • Cut-linen, 82
  • Dalmatic, 57
  • apparels of, 24, 57
  • Clavi, 57
  • diagram of, 61
  • Damask, 3
  • Darning, 20, 21
  • on drawn-thread, 79, 82
  • Decoration, futile, 2
  • of ancient copes, usual arrangement of, 50
  • some principles of, 2
  • Design, colour-scheme in, 2
  • Designers for ecclesiastical art, 2
  • Designs, to transfer, 6-7
  • D’or nué, 34, 36
  • Drawing necessary for figure-work, 29
  • Emblems, 96
  • Embroidery, definition of, 1
  • English, 1
  • in gold, 9-13
  • in linen, 72-77
  • in silks, 15
  • paste, 25
  • ‘Eye’ of a curve, 74
  • ‘Fair-linen Cloth,’ 79
  • Fanon or maniple, 53
  • Feather-stitch, 75
  • Figure-embroidery, 28-37
  • Florentine, 35
  • from frontal of St. Thomas (à Becket) of Canterbury, Salisbury, 33
  • from Syon cope, 31
  • imitation of, 91
  • three methods of, 34
  • Filling, buttonhole, 75
  • chain-stitch, 27
  • stitches suitable for, 74-76
  • Floss-silk, embroidery in, 15-20
  • how to use, 16
  • Flower, ornament called the, 59
  • Flowers, early English conventional, 42-44
  • Frames, altar-frontals stretched on, 47
  • embroidery, 4-6
  • how to mount for embroidery, 6
  • making up, 41
  • position of worker at, 5
  • French knots, 27
  • Fringe, importance of, 46
  • washing of, 82
  • Frontal, altar-, 39
  • early English, 40
  • how to make up, 40-47
  • keynote as to colour, &c., 39
  • size, 40
  • Garments in embroidery, treatment of, 29, 30, 32, 91
  • liturgical, 53
  • Girdle of silk at Sarum, 85
  • the, use and symbolism of, 53
  • Gold, cloth of, 3, 9
  • d’or nué, 34, 36
  • embroidery, 9-13
  • raised work, 12
  • stitches useful for, 10, 11
  • thread, different kinds of, 3-4
  • Hands, special care of the, 16
  • Hangings, various, 40
  • Herring-bone-stitch, 75
  • close, 76
  • Swiss, 76
  • Herse-cloth or pall, 66, 67, 71
  • colour of, 67
  • History of embroidery, 1
  • Houseling-cloth, 84
  • Imitations condemned, 2, 91
  • Inlay, 26
  • Insertion, 86, 87
  • Kneelers, 68
  • Lace suitable for linen, 82
  • Lacis, 77
  • Laid-work, 15-19
  • compared with couching, 15, 19
  • Lavabo towels, 84
  • Light, arrangement of, 5
  • Linen, altar, 79
  • coloured, 3
  • coloured embroidery on white, 80
  • corporal, 83
  • ‘cut,’ 82
  • drawn-thread, 79-82
  • embroidery, principal stitches, 73-77
  • fringe, to wash, 82
  • vestments, 85
  • Linen-work, materials for, 73
  • sampler, 72
  • Lines, ‘Sympathetic,’ 76
  • Long- and short-stitch, 17
  • Maniple, origin and symbolism of, 53
  • shape and size of, 53-55
  • the, 53
  • Materials for backgrounds, 3
  • for embroidery, 3-5
  • for linen-work, 73
  • Mitre, 51-52
  • of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 51
  • Needles, 4
  • to improve, 4
  • ‘Opus Anglicanum,’ 32
  • Outline, 21
  • principle of, 21
  • secondary, 23
  • Padding in gold-work, 12
  • in linen-work, 74
  • Pall or herse-cloth, 66, 67
  • linen, 83-84
  • Parchment, use of, 12, 52
  • Paste, embroidery, to make, 25
  • Plate, 13
  • Plumage-stitch, 17
  • Principles, a few—
  • of colour, 21
  • of decoration, 2
  • of embroidery as art, 1
  • of proportion, 47, 66
  • Pulpit-hanging, 70
  • Purificators, 84
  • Radiation, principle of, 17
  • Relief, high, 12, 74
  • exaggerated, 30
  • Rochet, 89
  • Saint Ignatius of Loyola, 54
  • Thomas of Canterbury’s amice, 88
  • apparel, 88
  • chasuble, 58
  • mitre, 51
  • Sampler for gold-work, 8
  • for linen-work, 72
  • for silk-work, 14
  • Shades of floss-silk, 2-15
  • in old work, 36
  • Shading, 15, 16
  • Silk and satin, 3
  • embroidery, 15
  • embroidery compared with linen, 74
  • Silks, embroidery, 4
  • Soap, carbolic, &c., to avoid, 16
  • Stitches—Back-stitch, 76
  • basket-stitch, 12
  • buttonhole, 74
  • canvas or cushion, 77
  • chain, 27
  • couching, 9, 10, 11, 15, 61
  • cross, 76
  • drawn-thread, 81
  • feather, 75
  • French knots, 27
  • herring-bone, 75
  • laid-stitch, 15-19
  • nué (d’or), 34, 36
  • open-worked cross-stitch, 77
  • satin, 16, 17, 18
  • linen, 74
  • short, 17, 34
  • slanting, 20
  • split-stitch, 18, 29, 30, 32, 36
  • Stole, origin and symbolism of the, 53
  • shape and design, 55
  • size of the, 53
  • Stuffing-cotton, 12
  • Sudaries, 84
  • Super-frontal or frontlet, 46
  • Surplice, ancient, 89
  • diagram, 90
  • Dr. Rock’s pattern, 90
  • how to make, 89
  • modern, 89
  • Symbols, 96
  • ‘Sympathetic lines,’ 76
  • Syon cope, arrangement of design, 32
  • background of, 37
  • colours of, 32
  • figure from the, 31
  • gold-work of, 36
  • method of work, 36
  • Toga, Roman, 49
  • Towels, Lavabo, 84
  • Trabea, 49
  • Tunicle, 57
  • Veil, chalice (silk), 58, 63
  • (linen), 83
  • humeral, 84
  • offertory, 84
  • Velvet, 3
  • Vestments, Eucharistic, 53
  • colours of, 39, 53
  • symbolism of, 53
  • linen, 85-90
  • of Walter de Cantelupe, fragments of, 30
  • ‘white shining,’ 85
  • White linen, decoration of, 73, 74
  • Worcester, bishop’s tomb at, 56
  • fragment of vestments, 30

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