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Colour in woven design cover

Colour in woven design

Chapter 5: LIST OF COLOURED PLATES.
By Roberts Beaumont
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About This Book

The work presents a practical handbook on the science and technology of textile colouring, explaining optical theories of colour, attributes and temperature of hues, and laws of contrast and harmony; it surveys methods for blending coloured fibres, mixing warp and weft, and creating stripes, checks, mixtures, and figured effects across woollen, worsted, cotton and silk fabrics. Detailed chapters cover tinting of single, backed, and double cloths, pattern development, and a scheme for colour standardization. Numerous technical illustrations and coloured plates reproduce woven samples and provide actionable guidance for designers, manufacturers, and students of textile colour.

LIST OF COLOURED PLATES.

PLATE TO FACE PAGE
I. A = Spectrum 10
B = Spectrum resultant from viewing a strip of black on a white surface through a prism.
II. Spectral colouring of fabrics 16
1. Woven-design specimen.
2. Printed-yarn   „
III. Primary, secondary, and tertiary colours 22
IV. Tones and tints of the “primaries” 28
V. Plaid in which yellow is the bright overchecking colour 34
VI. Tones and tints of the “secondaries” 40
VII. 1. Blue texture 44
2. Fancy-twist yarn specimen.
VIII. Examples in colour contrasts 50
1, 2. Stripes.
  3. Figuring in bright colours.
IX. Mono-chromatic contrasts 54
1. Contrasts in tone.
2. Cont„asts „  tints.
X. Specimen of bright colouring in plaids 58
XI. Red, green, and blue colouring 64
1. Figured pattern.
2. Check d pat„
XII. Chart of colour standardization scheme 68
XIII. Blends of coloured wools 76
XIV. Specimens of marl yarns 90
Series I. Greys.
II. Colour.
XV. Regular stripes 104
1 and 2. Two-colour patterns.
3. Four-colour pattern.
XVI. Forms of irregular stripes 112
1. Tennis stripe.
2. Shaded „
3. Compound of ordinary and shaded stripes.
XVII. Fancy tweeds 120
XVIII. Compound stripings in bright colours 126
XIX. Check styles 134
1. Pattern in maroon and green.
2. Compound check.
3. Small interchanging check in fancy yarns.
XX. Check styles 144
1 and 3. Intermingled effects.
2. Broken check.
XXI. Figuring in simple twills 166
XXII. Styles due to simple orders of colouring 190
XXIII. Check and stripe patterns 228
1 and 2. Checks.
3. Gauze stripe.
4. Cord or rib stripes.
XXIV. Colouring of drafted styles 252
1. Weave compound—prunelle and [2\2] twills.
2. We„e com„ound — [1\3], [3\1], and [2\2] twills.
3. We„e com„ound —„[1\3], [3„ twist-warp yarns.
XXV. Fancy yarns 262
1. Ordinary folded or two-ply and three-ply yarns.
2. Flake and cloud twists.
3. Curl twists.
4. Gimp „
XXVI. Fancy yarn colourings 272
1. Donegal tweed.
2. Compound-weave worsted.
XXVII. Colouring with curl and knop yarns 280
1. Twill weave.
2. Small figure.
XXVIII. Costume colouring in fancy yarns 288
XXIX. Reversible knop-twist yarn pattern 296
XXX. Double-plain styles 304
1, 2, 3. Stripe patterns.
4. Figured shawl.
XXXI. Various double-plain designs 308
1. Warped and wefted one-and-one.
2, 3 and 4. System of warp colouring coinciding with the weave construction.
5. Irregular warp and weft colouring.
XXXII. Reversible double-weave fabrics 314
1. Double plain—velvet finish.
2. Double twill.
XXXIII. 320
1. Vesting.
2. Reversible golf cloaking.
XXXIV. Extra-warp colouring 324
1. Stripe style.
2. Quilting texture.
XXXV. Colouring of figured fabrics in the warp 330
1. Old vesting design (quilting).
2. Cut and uncut pile pattern.
XXXVI. Figured-pile specimen, sateen ground 334
XXXVII. Figured and spotted fabrics (extra-weft colouring) 340
1. Chintzed.
2 and 4. Extra-weft spotting.
3. Extra weft.
XXXVIII. 1. Honeycomb 348
2. Pine figuring.
XXXIX. Figured styles developed in warp and weft colourings 360