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Congress Hotel, Home of a Thousand Homes / Rare and Piquant Dishes of Historic Interest

Chapter 3: Tomato Volga
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About This Book

A series of richly descriptive menu entries and culinary essays from a grand hotel kitchen, presenting rare and historic dishes alongside preparation notes and anecdotes about their cultural origins. Each entry explains ingredients, traditional service and flavor characteristics—examples include Beluga caviar on blinis, stuffed tomatoes, poule au pot, bird's-nest consommé and bouillabaisse—while reflecting on epicurean taste, technique and the ceremonial aspects of dining at a luxury establishment.

Tomato Volga

ussia is justly famed as the land of hors d' oeuvres—delightful whets that clear the palate. But none of these delicacies are more tempting to the epicure than Tomato Volga.

That chef—his name unhappily is not known—who bestowed this culinary gift upon the elect is worthy of our deepest gratitude. Only in the land of the Volga is the worth of such gastronomic artists rightly appraised. Endowed with perfect technique, clear palates and inexhaustible patience, chefs there are considered in a class apart—second only to the nobles.

At the Congress, Tomato Volga is served in a manner that would delight the heart of its creator. Only the finest vine ripened tomatoes—tributes of the hotbed—are used. The pommes de amour, as the French call them on account of their beautiful red hue, are hollowed out and stuffed with Beluga caviar and grated yolks of eggs.

The blending produces an exquisite result—one that would flatter even the most blasé palate.

"The stewed cock shall crow, cock-a-loodle loo,
A loud cock-a-loodle shall he crow;
The duck and the drake shall swim in a lake
Of onions and claret below."

Fletcher