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Cordova: A city of the Moors

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A vivid travel-study presents the city's Moorish monuments, narrow streets, sunlit plazas, patios, and perfumed gardens, emphasizing colour, heat, and an atmosphere of somnolence. It surveys the principal architectural heritage, especially the great mosque-cathedral, and discusses artistic details and urban layout through descriptive passages and illustrations. Historical chapters trace the city's rise under Muslim rule, its later decline and demographic changes, and the lingering customs, markets, and local industries that shape contemporary life. Interwoven observations note daily rhythms, cultural memory, and the ways antiquity informs modern identity and tourism.

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Title: Cordova: A city of the Moors

Author: Albert Frederick Calvert

Walter M. Gallichan

Release date: February 4, 2019 [eBook #58831]
Most recently updated: January 24, 2021

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images available at The Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CORDOVA: A CITY OF THE MOORS ***

Contents.

List of Illustrations
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(etext transcriber's note)

THE SPANISH SERIES

CORDOVA

THE SPANISH SERIES

EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT

Seville
Murillo
Cordova
The Prado
The Escorial
Spanish Arms and Armour

In preparation—

Goya
Toledo
Madrid
Velazquez
Granada and Alhambra
Royal Palaces of Spain
Leon, Burgos, and Salamanca
Valladolid, Oviedo, Segovia, Zamora, Avila, and Zaragoza

CORDOVA

A CITY OF THE MOORS BY
ALBERT F. CALVERT AND
WALTER  M.   GALLICHAN
WITH 160 ILLUSTRATIONS

 
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVII
 
 

Edinburgh: T. and A. Constable, Printers to His Majesty


To

THE DUKE OF SOTOMAYOR

Lord High Chamberlain to H.M. the King of Spain, etc.

My dear Duke,

Some of the pleasantest of my many pleasant memories of Spain are associated with, as indeed they were derived from, the sympathy you have displayed in my work and the great kindness I ever received from the Duchess of Sotomayor and yourself. For these, I hope, sufficient reasons—not as one who seeks to liquidate a heavy debt of hospitality, but rather rejoices in his obligations—I beg you to accept this dedication and permit me to associate your illustrious name with this modest volume.

I am,
My dear Duke,
Your obliged and ever grateful,
ALBERT F. CALVERT.

PREFACE

It would be unnecessary to enlarge upon the reasons for including a study of Cordova in this series of Spanish Handbooks: indeed a series of this description would be incomplete without it. The beautiful, powerful, and wise Cordova,—‘the City of Cities,’ ‘the Pearl of the West,’ ‘the Bride of Andalus,’ as the Arabian poets have variously named it,—the ancient capital of Mohammedan Spain, is still one of the most curious and fascinating monuments of this singularly interesting country.

Much water has flowed under the sixteen arches of the bridge which spans the Guadalquivir since ‘Cordova was to Andalus what the head is to the body, or what the breast is to the loin’; the Moorish city of the thirty suburbs and three thousand mosques, whose fame once obscured the glory of ancient Damascus, is no longer the centre of European culture. ‘The brightest splendour of the world’ has been lost in centuries of neglect and decay, and the new light of a modern civilisation has not shone upon the remains of its mediæval grandeur.

But the Cordova of the great Khalif is still the most African city in Spain; its mosque remains to give us a clearer and fuller idea of the power and magnificence of the Moors than anything else in the Peninsula, not excepting even the Alhambra; and in its narrow, uneven streets and mysterious, silent patios, in the gold and crimson of its fragrant gardens, the student and the artist may find unending interest and enchantment.

In selecting the illustrations for this book, the authors have endeavoured to provide both for the antiquary and the lover of the beautiful; for those whose acquaintance with Spain must be made through the medium of the printed page, and for those more fortunate readers who will, we hope, find this book a memento of their wanderings in Andalusia.

ALBERT F. CALVERT.     
WALTER M. GALLICHAN.

CONTENTS

CHAP.  PAGE
I.THE BRIDE OF ANDALUS1
II.THE MOORISH CAPTURE13
III.THE OMEYYAD DYNASTY23
IV.THE BUILDING OF THE MOSQUE42
V.IN THE COURT OF ORANGES57
VI.THE SPLENDOURS OF THE MOSQUE65
VII.THE CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES75
VIII.THE PALACE OF THE KHALIFS AND THE MOORISH BRIDGE79
IX.ILLUSTRIOUS NATIVES OF CORDOVA83
APPENDIX I.—THE GREAT MOSQUE OF CORDOVA96
APPENDIX II.—CORDOVA100

 

 

ILLUSTRATIONS

 PLATE NO.
View of the City and the Bridge south of the Guadalquivir,1
The Bridge,2
View of Mosque and Bridge,3
The Iron Mill on the Guadalquivir,4
Promenade of ‘Grand Capitaine,’5
Market Street, or Calle de la Feria,6
Plaza del Triunfo and exterior of the Mosque,7
Entrance Gate of the City, the Column of Triumph, and the Mosque from the Bridge,8
The Column of Triumph,9
Ancient Arab Tower, now the Church of St. Nicholas de la Villa,10
The Tower of San Nicolas,11
Tower of the Cathedral and Patio de Los Naranjos,12
View of the Patio de Los Naranjos,13
The Tower of the Cathedral,14
Entrance to the City from the Bridge,15
Public Fountain in the Patio de Los Naranjos,16
Women at the Spring,17
Well in the Patio de Los Naranjos,18
Peasant with his Donkey,19
A Water-Carrier,20
The Poor Man’s Meal,21
Muleteers,22
A Gardener,23
Girl with a Guitar,24
A Room in the Provincial Museum: View of the Roman and Visigoth Section,25
A Room in the Provincial Museum: View of the Arab Section,26
Door of the House of the Innocents,27
The Door of Don Jerónimo Páez,28
The Door of the Foundling Hospital,29
The Tower of Carrahoe,30
Porch of St. Paul,31
Ancient Arab Walls,32
Mosaics of the Four Seasons in the House of S.S. Lugue, Plaza de la Compania,33
Architectural Parts of the Catholic Basilicas,34
Capitals and Fragments of Ornamentation in the Mosque,35
Architectural Parts of the Catholic Basilicas and other constructions,36
Capitals of the Catholic Basilicas preserved in the Mosque, now the Cathedral,37
Fragments of the Catholic Basilicas preserved in the Mosque, now the Cathedral,38
General View of the Choir and High Altar,39
Pulpit and Steps of the High Altar,40
Choir Stalls in the Mosque or Cathedral,41
Left Side of the Choir Stalls,42
General View of the Choir in the Mosque, or Cathedral,43
The Bishop’s Stall in the Choir of the Mosque, or Cathedral,44
Central Nave in the Cathedral,45
Central Nave in the Cathedral,46
Central Nave in the Cathedral,47
Plan of the Mosque in the time of the Arabs,48
Plan of the Mosque at the present time,49
The Bishop’s Gate,50
Entrance to the Mosque, called the Gate of Camónigos,51
The Tower of La Mala Muerte,52
The Cathedral: View of the Transverse Nave,53
North Angle of the Chapel of Villaviciosa,54
The Central Nave of the Mosque,55
The Gate of Pardon,56
The Gate of Pardon,57
The Gate of Pardon,58
The Gate of Pardon,59
Knocker on the Gate of Pardon,60
Principal Nave and Mih-rab of the Mosque,61
Entrance to the Chapel of the Mih-rab,62
Interior View of the Mosque (from a drawing),63
General View of the Interior of the Mosque,64
Interior of the Mosque,65
Interior of the Cathedral,66
Interior of the Mosque,67
Interior of the Cathedral,68
General View of the Chapel of Villaviciosa,69
Interior of the Mosque,70
Interior of the Mosque,71
Lateral Door of the Mosque,72
The Chapel of Villaviciosa in the Mosque,73
Exterior of the Mosque,74
The Mosque—Moorish Portal on the North Side, built under Hakem III., 988-1001,75
Chapel of Trastamara, south side,76
General View of the Chapel of the Mih-rab,77
Façade and Gate of Almanzor,78
The Mosque—Elevation of the Gate of the Sanctuary of the Koran,79
Gate corresponding to the Buildings of Al-Hakem II.,80
Portal of the Mih-rab,81
Arcade of the Entrance to the Vestibule of the Mih-rab,82
The Maksurrah (now the Villaviciosa Chapel), left side,83
Right Lateral Portal, within the Precinct of the Maksurrah,84
Detail of the Hall of Chocolate,85
Exterior of the Chapel of the Mih-rab,86
Detail, Arches of the Mih-rab,87
Detail in the Chapel of the Maksurrah,88
Mosaic Decoration of the Sanctuary,89
General View of the Interior of the Chapel of the Maksurrah and St. Ferdinand,90
Detail near the Mih-rab,91
Detail of the Interior of the Mih-rab,92
Vertical Section of the Dome and Cupola of the Mih-rab,93
Detail of the Trastamara Chapel,94
Detail of the Higher Part and Roof of the Chapel of St. Ferdinand,95
Sections of the Mosque,96
Sections of the Mosque and Cathedral,97
Detail in the Chapel of Trastamara, south side,98
Detail in the Angle of the Arch of the Mih-rab, left side,99
Detail in the Angle of the Arch of the Mih-rab, right side,100
Detail of the Gate of the Mosque,101
Kufic Inscription of the time of the Khalifate, found in an Excavation,102
The Mosque. Kufic Inscription in the Palace,103
Arabian Inscriptions,104
Arabian Inscriptions,105
Basement Panel of the Façade of the Mih-rab,106
Marble Socle in the Mih-rab,107
Exterior of the Chapel of San Pedro, north side, in the Mosque,108
A Gate on one of the lateral sides,109
A Kufic Inscription on the additions made to the Mosque by order of the Khalif Al-Hakem,110
A Kufic Inscription on the additions made to the Mosque by order of the Khalif Al-Hakem,111
Capitals. Entrance Arch,112
Detail of a Frieze,113
Detail of a Cornice,114
Detail of a Cornice,115
Eastern Side of the Exterior of the Mosque and Detail,116
Plan of the Arch and Cupola of the Mih-rab,117
Detail of the Portals of the Maksurrah,118
Section and Details of the Mih-rab of the Mosque,119
Details of the Cupola of the Vestibule of the Mih-rab,120
The Gate of Pardon121
The Bishop’s Gate121
The Mosque. Detail of the Trastamara Chapel,122
The Mosque. The Gate of the Sultan,122
The Mosque. Interior of the Mih-rab,123
The Mosque. Arab Arcade above the First Mih-rab,123
Interior of the Mosque,124
Interior of the Chapel of San Fernando,125
Gate of the Cathedral,126
Principal Entrance to the Mosque,127
The Mosque. Trastamara Chapel, south side,128
Eastern Façade of the Mosque,129
Patio de los Naranjos,130
Calle del Cardinal Herrero,131
Tower of the Cathedral,132
The Mosque. Pulpit of the Angel,133
The Mosque. Pulpit of the Bull,134
Cathedral. Choir Stalls,135
Cathedral. Principal Nave,136
Gate of St. Catharine,137
Altar of San Rafael,138
The House of Páez,139
General View of the Roman Bridge and Calahorra over the Guadalquivir, taken from the Arab Mill,140
Calahorra Castle,141
General View of the Roman Castle of the Calahorra,142
Entrance Gate to the Roman Bridge,143
Almodóvar Gate,144
The Mills,145
General View and Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir,146
Grating and Court of a Private House,147
Avenue of the Grand Captain,148
District and Church of San Lorenzo,149
General View of the Bank and the Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir,150
Interior of the Plaza de Toros,151
Horticultural Gardens,152
The Bank of the Guadalquivir from the Bridge,153
General View of Cordova,154
Courtyard of an Inn,155
A Street and Country Types,156
A Street and Country Types,157
Ancient Receptacle for Water of Medina Az-Zahira, Tenth Century,158
Plan of Cordova,159

Many of the photographs included in this volume, other than those taken by myself, were supplied by Messrs. Rafael Garzon of Granada, Senan and Gonzalez of Granada, Hauser and Menet of Madrid, Ernst Wasmuth of Berlin, publisher of Uhde’s Baudenkmaeler in Spanien und Portugal, and Eugen Twietmeyer of Leipzig, publisher of Junghändel’s Die Baukunst Spaniens, and I take this opportunity of acknowledging their kind permission to reproduce them in this volume.

A. F. C.