City and Guilds of London Institute
FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF
TECHNICAL EDUCATION.
TECHNOLOGICAL EXAMINATIONS.
19B.—COTTON MANUFACTURE.
Section I.—COTTON SPINNING.
I. Syllabus.—The Examination will include questions founded on such subjects as the following:—
1. The geographical position of the world’s cotton fields, and suitable regions to which it may be introduced.
2. Cotton cultivation and the various causes of damage to the fibre during growing and picking seasons, with the dates of planting and picking in all cotton-growing countries.
3. The mode of preparing the raw material, cotton gins, ginning, packing, &c. Means and methods of adulteration.
4. Commercial handling of the raw material up to the spinning mill.
5. The nature and properties of the various kinds of raw material—Sea Island, Queensland, Fiji, Egyptian, New Orleans, Uplands, Boweds, Dollerah, Hinghinghat, Surat, Brazilian, &c.
6. The selection of, and advisability, or otherwise, of mixing various cottons with a view to the full utilization of every kind.
7. The development of and the principles involved in the construction of the several machines used in cotton spinning.
8. Cleaning cotton by opening, scrutching, carding and combing machines.
9. Processes of attaining a parallel arrangement of fibres by carding, and the attenuation of the sliver through drawing, slubbing, intermediate and finishing roving frames.
10. Spinning operations upon the throstle, mule, and ring frames.
11. The doubling of single yarns for lace, hosiery, sewing thread, and kindred purposes.
12. Warping and bundling for the home trade and export, with the accompanying processes of winding and reeling.
13. Packing and commercial dealing with yarns in the process of distribution.
In the Honours Examination more difficult questions in the above subjects will be set than in the Ordinary Grade.
II. Full Technological Certificate.—The candidate, who is not otherwise qualified (see Regulations 33 and 34), will be required, for the full Certificate in the Ordinary Grade, to have passed the Science and Art Department’s Examination, in the Elementary Stage at least, and for the full Certificate in the Honours Grade, in the Advanced Stage at least, in two of the following Science subjects:—
- II. Machine Construction and Drawing.
- III. Building Construction.
- VI. Theoretical Mechanics.
- VII. Applied Mechanics.
- XV. Elementary Botany.
Certificates, showing that the candidate has passed the Second Grade Examination of the Science and Art Department in Geometrical Drawing as well as in Freehand or Model Drawing, will be accepted in lieu of one of the above Science subjects for the full Technological Certificate in either grade of the Examination.
Section II.—COTTON WEAVING.
The Examination in the Ordinary Grade will consist of a paper of questions only.
I. Syllabus.—The Examination will include questions founded on such subjects as the following:—
1. Winding Machines for warping and pirns.
2. Warping.—Mill, beam and sectional.
3. Sizing.—Ball, hank, dressing, slashing upon both cylinder and hot-air frames.
4. Beaming and Scotch Dressing.
5. Reeds and Healds (Counts Setting, &c.), Drawing in and Twisting.
6. Comparative merits of Hand and Power Looms.
7. The Power Loom—its parts, the principle governing each, with the relation and timing of each to the other.
8. Shedding Motions—as Tappets with their over and under motions. Dobbies or witches.
9. Picking motions, alternate and “pick and pick.”
10. Beating up, shuttle box, and minor motions.
11. Necessary calculations for the power loom.
12. The various makes of cloth produced by Tappets and Dobbies as plain cloth, twills, satins, and small figured effects, with one warp and weft, or with the addition of extra warp for figuring, as in Dhooties.
13. Method of making designs, drafts, and tie-ups for the above.
14. Colour and colour blending as applied to the coloured branches of the industry.
15. Calculations for warp and weft and method of costing goods.
The Examination for the Honours Grade will consist of more advanced questions on the preceding subjects, especially those enumerated in Sections 7 to 11; and, in addition, questions relating to the following:—
1. Construction of the various Jacquard machines in use, and their relative suitability to various goods, and the system of mounting Jacquard looms.
2. Construction, merits and uses of the hand loom.
3. Principles of cloth structure, and the mechanism required for the production of the following typical fabrics:—Plain cloth, twills, diapers, brocades, damasks, coloured stripes and checks, warp spots, repps, weft spots produced with circles, swivels or extra shuttles, backed cloths, double cloths, 3, 4, 5, &c., ply fabrics, tapestries, velveteens, cords, Terry fabrics, plain and figured gauze, lappets, plain and figured leno.
4. Principles of designing and card cutting involved in producing the above fabrics, giving preference to the actual designing and working of such patterns as shall be practically useful as articles of commerce.
5. Analysis of samples of woven fabrics to determine pattern, draft, tie-up, and counts of material used.
6. Composition of the various yarns used in the production of mixed fabrics.
7. Latent and other defects in fabrics caused by faulty construction and unequal balancing of warp and weft.
8. Selection of warp and weft yarns suitable for the fabrics required.
9. Proportioning of fabrics so as to maintain the original structure with an increased or diminished weight.
10. Method of calculating the cost of a fabric from given data of values of material and labour, by ascertaining the fibre, counts, ends, picks and weight.
11. Actual Weaving.—Each candidate will be required, during the year preceding the Examination, to design and execute in suitable material an original pattern, of not less than 200 ends and 200 picks in a complete pattern, and to forward the same (carriage paid) to London a fortnight prior to the day of the Examination, together with a certificate signed by his employer, or by the class teacher and a member of the School Committee, stating that the work has been executed by the candidate without assistance. The specimen of weaving, showing the complete pattern, must not be less than one yard in length and at least 24 inches in width: it must be properly dyed or finished, and constructed in such a manner as to be a saleable article.
II. Full Technological Certificate.—The candidate, who is not otherwise qualified (see Regulations 33 and 34), will be required, for the full Certificate in the Ordinary Grade, to have passed the Science and Art Department’s Examination, in the Elementary Stage at least, and for the full Certificate in the Honours Grade, in the Advanced Stage at least, in two of the following Science subjects:—
- II. Machine Construction and Drawing.
- III. Building Construction.
- VI. Theoretical Mechanics.
- VII. Applied Mechanics.
- XV. Elementary Botany.
Certificates, showing that the candidate has passed the Second Grade Examination of the Science and Art Department in Geometrical Drawing as well as in Freehand or Model Drawing, will be accepted in lieu of one of the above Science subjects for the full Technological Certificate in either grade of the Examination.